It is 1:50 am and I just finished watching the Swiss Army Knife of CO methods. I have learned so much. I can't sleep now thinking of all the possibilities with this method. I must say, you are a good instructor/teacher.
Thank you! I'm so glad you liked the series. I remember when I learned this YO, k1 trick of doubling the crochet cast on sts in order to produce a pinhole CO and a PCO (provsional CO). I was lying in bed one night, myself, thinking about it, when it dawned on me that it might work for the tubular CO, as well. (And it did!) So you are not alone in your knitting-in-your-head-in-the-wee-hours response. :-)
Just watched the series of Swiss Army Knife of COs. Watch other tutorials as well. Your tutorials are great. You are very knowledgeable and teaching style is very good. I have learned so much. I have subscribed and I’ll come back to review as I need. Thank you so much.
I found as a left handed crocheter, but a right handed knitter, that I needed to reverse the mounting of my crocheted loops before knitting them. Otherwise the the yarn doesn't unzip nicely. But I love your series of tubular cast ons!
Without question, your instructions are awesome!! You made it all look so simple! Thank you for making your videos; it is truly appreciated. I love the look of the tubular cast on. I pieced together the instructions of Ysolda and Marnie to figure out the setup rows (on straights, casting on every Stitch) and how to rearrange them for a k2,p2. But I like the idea (ease) of using a crochet cast on like you demonstrated. The one question I have is will the crochet cast on you use result in a less stretchy material in comparison to the stretch of a tubular cast on on straights? While looking for instructions on the 2x2 tubular cast on I read that some say the crochet cast on is somewhat stiffer, others say not much difference. Thank you again!
This technique of using the crochet CO over half the sts, and doubling them with YOs may be different than how others might use the crochet CO for a tubular CO, I really don't know. 2x2 tubular is definitely not as stretchy as 1x1, regardless of whether it's a CO or BO, because the sts cross, but like I said, I don't know that the technique used to create a 2x2 tubular CO/BO has an affect on its stretchiness/stiffness, without doing a direct comparison. The way I figure out the advantages of one technique over another, or compare the results of one technique over another, is to do swatches. You will learn far more by watching what is happening on your needles, and comparing those results than by reading what others say (and counting on them to be talking about the same thing you're wanting to know about!). I have done this many times, when I am trying to decide which technique to use that gets me to a particular endpoint, because I want to find the one I like best (i.e., the one I can remember!). I have done this with short rows, provisional cast ons, tubular cast ons, and pinhole cast ons.
Roxanne Richardson Thank you for that. You’re absolutely right about swatching. I taught myself to knit and crochet and am still a little uncertain about whether I’m doing things right. I truly appreciate your videos; I’m learning so much!
What a clear description of how to proceed with the tubular cast on! I have a couple of questions: 1) have you shown how to do a tubular cast on in the round, with joining in the round? (I am not sure if it might have been part of any of the other videos in the Swiss Army Knife series - would you need to do this by Magic Loop?) and 2) I see you are using a method of yarn overs to create half the stitches, rather than having cast on all the stitches and slipping half - can you comment on that second method and whether you ever do it that way; does it have specific disadvantages or advantages?
I don't remember what I said about tubular CO in the round, but I *think* I probably said to join in the round after completing the setup rows. That's how I actually do it. (I'm pretty sure that after the setup is complete, that's when I say you can start working in the round, or work flat.) As for the YO business, that's the whole point of this series on the crochet CO. It's the process of casting on half the sts and then doubling by using YOs that creates the drawstring for the pinhole CO, creates the lifeline for the provisional CO, and allows you to create the tubular CO around that waste yarn or extra long tail (which is then pulled out). Casting on with the crochet CO, using the full number of sts doesn't give you any of that. If you use the crochet CO using the full number of sts, in order to produce a provisional cast on, then you end up with a PCO that you have to unzip, one stitch at a time, and recapture, and you are also short one stitch, because of the offset. You aren't the first person to ask about why I'm doubling via YOs, so I must not have made that clear. These uses of the crochet cast on are NOT the same as how it's typically used, which is why I think it's so nifty, and useful.
Ah, this helps so much. I understood that you featured this crochet cast on as a series but now I understand why it is shown here exactly as you have, so it remains in parallel to the other uses for this type of the crochet cast on as executed. Its versatility is proven over and over! And I can picture how to handle joining in the round after working the set up rows flat and seaming up later. Thank you for the clarifications!
This is fantastic! I've never tried crochet CO and it looks so nifty (as you say). How would I set up for a 2 x 1 and 1x2 ribbing pattern? Any tips on how to swap stitches and what to keep in mind? Other people suggest needing to k2tog but I'd rather swap stitches like you do for 2x2
What brand are those blue (?steel) needles? Yes I agree a wonderful teacher. I do have to replay some sometimes when you talk about which type sample is 2/? Or start/end or flat/circ-😻my older brain has trouble catching up but thanks so much Roxanne! Hey do you REALLY drink all that coffee/"donation " or can it be turned into cash instead? 🤣
Thank you for all of your helpful videos on casting on! This one is very helpful to set up seamless ribbing from a tubular cast on. I'm wondering if there is a way to refine the approach even further and do a tubular cast on that will set up rib rows in the right order - so you don't have to rearrange the stitches. Can you crochet the stitches in different directions to create knits and purls in the order you need?
The short answer is no, you can't make it happen for other stitch patterns. For a longer explanation, you can ask in my Ravelry group by starting a new discussion thread. In the meantime, if you have a swatch you have worked in k1p1 ribbing using the tubular CO, watch what happens when you follow a column of knit sts around the bottom edge, and what happens to the two legs of each stockinette stitch.
hi...is this cabling method applicable to tubular cast on for the 1st brioche pass? ...aaand the last brioche pass, before starting double knitting for a tubular bind off.....thanx so much
I went back and watched some more of your videos. They are so informative by the way! I finally came out of my fog and was able to do this successfully! Now I would like to know if we can do this cast on without it being so puffy?
I have trouble with sloppy sleeves at my wrists. I'm thinking that you could use the tubular cast on to make a channel that would cover some elastic like a sweatshirt sleeve. And the tubular part might be another row or two depending on the size (or strength) of elastic you want. Has anyone ever tried that?
This whole series was great. I've used a crochet cast on before, but I always cast on the number I need. What is the reason for only casting on half the number? Thanks!
The process of doubling the sts via the YO is what creates the lifeline/drawstring/foundation strand for whichever type of CO you actually want. If you crocheted the actual number you wanted, you wouldn't have any of those things, and if you then worked the YO, k1 sequence, you would end up with twice the number you actually need.
I am making a hat with elongated chevron pattern that calls for multiple of 18 plus 1. How would I do tubular cast on with an odd number of cast on stitches?
That's explained in the video on standard tubular CO. It states how to work the CO whether you need an even number or an odd number of sts. Having said that, if you're starting with ribbing before shifting to the chevron pattern, you could CO an even number and just inc or dec 1 st as you transition to the first row of the chevron pattern. If you're working the chevron pattern from the start, a tubular CO may not be the best option. A CO that produces a standard edge might be better. Knitter's choice.
Is it ok to just do the 4 (or is it 2?*) rows to *setup and go ahead with k2p2 and forget that moving st like cable in front? Would bottom look so bad??
Whether or not it looks bad is an aesthetic choice only you can make. The point of the tubular CO is to create an edgeless edge, where sts flow around continuously. You'd lose that continuity, but it's up to you whether or not it's worth the trade off. I would suggest swatching.
This method is great for k2p2, because it doesn't reduce the stretch in the edge, the way other tubular CO do for k2p2 th-cam.com/video/QT_Z6u7nyAs/w-d-xo.html
Is there really no way to do this technique without the "v" look at the edge of the ribbing? I like the technique, but think it makes the beginning of the ribbing look like tension issues.
I would take a look at your commercially knit garments and examine the edges of those (try to look at something that isn't super fine gauge, so that you can actually see what is going on). They typically have a tubular CO edge. It should look very similar to a hand knit tubular CO, but just knit at a different scale.
Sure. I find it easiest to work the setup rows (where you slip and knit for 2-4 rows), and then when it's time to work in your actual ribbing pattern, join in the round at that time. You will likely have a small gap at the join, but you can close that with the yarn tail.
![[KnitFreedom] Italian Cast-On in the round - Perfect Invisible 1x1 Rib Cast-On](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9T0TsGMhG3c/mqdefault.jpg)
I have been knitting for decades but every time I watch one of your videos I learn something that is very useful. Thank you!
You're still fantastic! I knit since over 40 years but watching your videos I still learn a lot from you! Thank you again!
Hi
It is 1:50 am and I just finished watching the Swiss Army Knife of CO methods. I have learned so much. I can't sleep now thinking of all the possibilities with this method. I must say, you are a good instructor/teacher.
Thank you! I'm so glad you liked the series. I remember when I learned this YO, k1 trick of doubling the crochet cast on sts in order to produce a pinhole CO and a PCO (provsional CO). I was lying in bed one night, myself, thinking about it, when it dawned on me that it might work for the tubular CO, as well. (And it did!) So you are not alone in your knitting-in-your-head-in-the-wee-hours response. :-)
Just watched the series of Swiss Army Knife of COs. Watch other tutorials as well. Your tutorials are great. You are very knowledgeable and teaching style is very good. I have learned so much. I have subscribed and I’ll come back to review as I need. Thank you so much.
You are very welcome! I'm glad you enjoy my videos. :-)
As always, you rock, Rox!
This tubular cast on is sooooo much easier for me than others I’ve tried. I’m so happy I found this video🥰
I found as a left handed crocheter, but a right handed knitter, that I needed to reverse the mounting of my crocheted loops before knitting them. Otherwise the the yarn doesn't unzip nicely. But I love your series of tubular cast ons!
Thank you for your wonderful help❤
Loved your work!
Without question, your instructions are awesome!! You made it all look so simple! Thank you for making your videos; it is truly appreciated. I love the look of the tubular cast on. I pieced together the instructions of Ysolda and Marnie to figure out the setup rows (on straights, casting on every Stitch) and how to rearrange them for a k2,p2. But I like the idea (ease) of using a crochet cast on like you demonstrated. The one question I have is will the crochet cast on you use result in a less stretchy material in comparison to the stretch of a tubular cast on on straights? While looking for instructions on the 2x2 tubular cast on I read that some say the crochet cast on is somewhat stiffer, others say not much difference. Thank you again!
This technique of using the crochet CO over half the sts, and doubling them with YOs may be different than how others might use the crochet CO for a tubular CO, I really don't know. 2x2 tubular is definitely not as stretchy as 1x1, regardless of whether it's a CO or BO, because the sts cross, but like I said, I don't know that the technique used to create a 2x2 tubular CO/BO has an affect on its stretchiness/stiffness, without doing a direct comparison. The way I figure out the advantages of one technique over another, or compare the results of one technique over another, is to do swatches. You will learn far more by watching what is happening on your needles, and comparing those results than by reading what others say (and counting on them to be talking about the same thing you're wanting to know about!). I have done this many times, when I am trying to decide which technique to use that gets me to a particular endpoint, because I want to find the one I like best (i.e., the one I can remember!). I have done this with short rows, provisional cast ons, tubular cast ons, and pinhole cast ons.
Roxanne Richardson Thank you for that. You’re absolutely right about swatching. I taught myself to knit and crochet and am still a little uncertain about whether I’m doing things right. I truly appreciate your videos; I’m learning so much!
What a clear description of how to proceed with the tubular cast on! I have a couple of questions: 1) have you shown how to do a tubular cast on in the round, with joining in the round? (I am not sure if it might have been part of any of the other videos in the Swiss Army Knife series - would you need to do this by Magic Loop?) and 2) I see you are using a method of yarn overs to create half the stitches, rather than having cast on all the stitches and slipping half - can you comment on that second method and whether you ever do it that way; does it have specific disadvantages or advantages?
I don't remember what I said about tubular CO in the round, but I *think* I probably said to join in the round after completing the setup rows. That's how I actually do it. (I'm pretty sure that after the setup is complete, that's when I say you can start working in the round, or work flat.) As for the YO business, that's the whole point of this series on the crochet CO. It's the process of casting on half the sts and then doubling by using YOs that creates the drawstring for the pinhole CO, creates the lifeline for the provisional CO, and allows you to create the tubular CO around that waste yarn or extra long tail (which is then pulled out). Casting on with the crochet CO, using the full number of sts doesn't give you any of that. If you use the crochet CO using the full number of sts, in order to produce a provisional cast on, then you end up with a PCO that you have to unzip, one stitch at a time, and recapture, and you are also short one stitch, because of the offset. You aren't the first person to ask about why I'm doubling via YOs, so I must not have made that clear. These uses of the crochet cast on are NOT the same as how it's typically used, which is why I think it's so nifty, and useful.
Ah, this helps so much. I understood that you featured this crochet cast on as a series but now I understand why it is shown here exactly as you have, so it remains in parallel to the other uses for this type of the crochet cast on as executed. Its versatility is proven over and over! And I can picture how to handle joining in the round after working the set up rows flat and seaming up later. Thank you for the clarifications!
U are the best teacher ever👏👏thank u so much for this tutorial
Genius!
Fantastic video. Thanks and love u.
This is fantastic! I've never tried crochet CO and it looks so nifty (as you say). How would I set up for a 2 x 1 and 1x2 ribbing pattern? Any tips on how to swap stitches and what to keep in mind? Other people suggest needing to k2tog but I'd rather swap stitches like you do for 2x2
Swapping sts only works if there is a 1-to-1 correspondence between knits and purls, which is not the case with 2x1 or 1x2 ribbing.
Great demo/ info-thank you!
I'm glad you liked it! :-)
Great video! What is the name of the colored knitting needles you're working with? Thanks for all your hard work on these videos.
Those are Signature Needle Arts fixed length circulars. The woman who manufactured them retired last summer, so the needles are no longer available.
What brand are those blue (?steel) needles? Yes I agree a wonderful teacher. I do have to replay some sometimes when you talk about which type sample is 2/? Or start/end or flat/circ-😻my older brain has trouble catching up but thanks so much Roxanne! Hey do you REALLY drink all that coffee/"donation " or can it be turned into cash instead? 🤣
Ko-Fi is a way to support a creator by "buying them a coffee," but the reality is that it's a direct PayPal payment to the creator. :-)
If the needles you saw are colored, with a silver, pointy tip, then they are Signature Needle Arts circular needles.
Thank you for all of your helpful videos on casting on! This one is very helpful to set up seamless ribbing from a tubular cast on. I'm wondering if there is a way to refine the approach even further and do a tubular cast on that will set up rib rows in the right order - so you don't have to rearrange the stitches. Can you crochet the stitches in different directions to create knits and purls in the order you need?
The short answer is no, you can't make it happen for other stitch patterns. For a longer explanation, you can ask in my Ravelry group by starting a new discussion thread. In the meantime, if you have a swatch you have worked in k1p1 ribbing using the tubular CO, watch what happens when you follow a column of knit sts around the bottom edge, and what happens to the two legs of each stockinette stitch.
@@RoxanneRichardson Ok thanks. Just joined your Ravelry group yesterday!
Thank you Roxanne!
How would you suggest I do the tubular bind-off for the 2x2 ribbing? Say k2p2...
hi...is this cabling method applicable to tubular cast on for the 1st brioche pass? ...aaand the last brioche pass, before starting double knitting for a tubular bind off.....thanx so much
Hallo Roxanne, can I also make the tubulair 3 × 3?
I don’t get that at all! I love your videos and I always understand your methods but this time I was stumped!
did you watch the other videos in this series leading up to this one?
Roxanne Richardson yes and I can do the one by one rib perfectly but the two by two rib is confusing to me!
I went back and watched some more of your videos. They are so informative by the way! I finally came out of my fog and was able to do this successfully! Now I would like to know if we can do this cast on without it being so puffy?
I have trouble with sloppy sleeves at my wrists. I'm thinking that you could use the tubular cast on to make a channel that would cover some elastic like a sweatshirt sleeve. And the tubular part might be another row or two depending on the size (or strength) of elastic you want. Has anyone ever tried that?
This whole series was great. I've used a crochet cast on before, but I always cast on the number I need. What is the reason for only casting on half the number? Thanks!
The process of doubling the sts via the YO is what creates the lifeline/drawstring/foundation strand for whichever type of CO you actually want. If you crocheted the actual number you wanted, you wouldn't have any of those things, and if you then worked the YO, k1 sequence, you would end up with twice the number you actually need.
Roxanne Richardson thanks!
Video otimo !!!!!
I am making a hat with elongated chevron pattern that calls for multiple of 18 plus 1. How would I do tubular cast on with an odd number of cast on stitches?
That's explained in the video on standard tubular CO. It states how to work the CO whether you need an even number or an odd number of sts. Having said that, if you're starting with ribbing before shifting to the chevron pattern, you could CO an even number and just inc or dec 1 st as you transition to the first row of the chevron pattern. If you're working the chevron pattern from the start, a tubular CO may not be the best option. A CO that produces a standard edge might be better. Knitter's choice.
Is it ok to just do the 4 (or is it 2?*) rows to *setup and go ahead with k2p2 and forget that moving st like cable in front? Would bottom look so bad??
Whether or not it looks bad is an aesthetic choice only you can make. The point of the tubular CO is to create an edgeless edge, where sts flow around continuously. You'd lose that continuity, but it's up to you whether or not it's worth the trade off. I would suggest swatching.
How do you cast on so that you can k2p2?
This method is great for k2p2, because it doesn't reduce the stretch in the edge, the way other tubular CO do for k2p2 th-cam.com/video/QT_Z6u7nyAs/w-d-xo.html
Is there really no way to do this technique without the "v" look at the edge of the ribbing? I like the technique, but think it makes the beginning of the ribbing look like tension issues.
I would take a look at your commercially knit garments and examine the edges of those (try to look at something that isn't super fine gauge, so that you can actually see what is going on). They typically have a tubular CO edge. It should look very similar to a hand knit tubular CO, but just knit at a different scale.
@@RoxanneRichardson I hadn't thought of that... think perfectionism gets to the best of me at times. Thanks Rox!
Could you say join with this cast on and do gloves or socks?
Sure. I find it easiest to work the setup rows (where you slip and knit for 2-4 rows), and then when it's time to work in your actual ribbing pattern, join in the round at that time. You will likely have a small gap at the join, but you can close that with the yarn tail.
👍
S