Thank you AGAIN! You are such a great teacher. I know this because I was a teacher for 40 years. Now that I'm retired I promised myself I would learn a new skill every year. Last year was knitting but I still needed a lot more knowledge and you are making it so much easier to learn. I really appreciate you.
This was so helpful!! I am knitting socks for my husband for Christmas and had forgotten the muscle memory for the cast-on...turns out that just leaves me space for the new muscle memory! Really appreciate the video :)
Timeless and so very helpful! TY for this. I’ve been trying to knit an original style “Scott’s war bonnet” (using a recently written pattern and a rewritten pattern from a 16th-17th century written pattern from Scotland). I measured his band size, followed directions, made a loose LTCO and 60% of the body of the hat and he tried it on. He said it was fine, but my finger felt that 1 yarn on the band edge that was so tight it was painful. Yep, ripped all out and very loosely rewound the ball to protect the yarn. I think I will follow your instructions & test the sizing much more often. As always, love your instructions! P
After the stretchy cast on technique was finally shown, after 6 minutes of an almost 9 minute video, I really appreciate the new stretchy cast on tips. The major difficulty with "how to" videos is the preliminary talk that should be in another video of "why this/these methods do not work..." we already know they don't and that's why we are seeking a new technique. I hope this is taken as a constructive suggestion. I watch many where people like you GENEROUSLY knowledge share by making these videos. Respectfully and thank you.
Thanks for this! I know I tighten too much when I cast on so this was a perfect video with easy to remember tips. I’m casting on my first pair of socks right now.
This is so helpful. I started my first knit socks a while ago and haven't picked it back up because the cast on was so tight. I was going to order bigger needles, but now I know how to fix it. 🙂
Yet another winner tut!! I learned and use the Old Norwegian CO because my LTCO was always too tight for the top of cuffs. Now I know! I'm itching to try that Cable CO with the larger needle though! I bet using an alternating cable CO with a larger needle would be a dandy setup for a 2x2 rib cuff!! 👍 for your shirt as well! 🙂
When I searched for a stretchier CO in my first year of sock knitting, I ended up with the Old Norwegian/Twisted German cast on, as well. It does store more stretch than the LTCO, so it can help, but I was amazed at how stretchy the LTCO could actually be, if it was done right! You could apply these techniques to the Old Norwegian CO, and get an even stretchier CO than what you have already.
I cast on tight too! To cast on, I use a needle .5mm larger and use the german twist. Then I knit the first two rows in that gauge knit flat and then transfer to my DPN. It gives me room to graph and expand that cuff if I screwed up. =P I will definitely be trying your finger spacing tip next time. Thank you!
Wow, this was great! I'd been wondering how to stop my cast-on edges from being so tight, especially relative to my cast-off edges, and I hadn't realised until you demonstrated it that I have definitely been doing the LTCO method with the extra tightening 'dance' for every stitch. Wow. Such a simple fix. Will definitely be working on developing that new muscle memory. Also, I had more or less given up trying to do the cable cast on because it just seemed so impossible and tedious. Don't know why it never occurred to me to put the needle in before tightening. I'm definitely going to give that method another go now. Maybe that will make it slightly easier to pull up the yarn loop, too, which was the other thing I had a lot of trouble with, as it would just slip off almost every time before I could get it through. Very frustrating, but maybe this will solve both issues! Thanks!
@@gy2gy246 I have used the two needle CO, then switch to knitting with one needle on each side and it works, for some reason, the yarn adapts to the project somehow. I have also used a larger needle for the CO, then knit the rest of the garment with the size I want.
Thanks so much for these creative ideas! I have tried so many of the other stretchy cast ons and was extremely frustrated and just gave up. I will definitely be using your methods!💗
Another way to get a regular but looser long-tail cast-on is to use two needles, Then you can tighten those loops right up and still have large enough loops. And if you do it that way and tighten them up, it's easier to get regularity of size.
The reason for a tight cast on is that the edge stitches are too close together, not that the loops are too small. If you create large loops, but still have a tight edge, then you might end up with a CO edge that's larger in circumference, but it wouldn't be any stretchier, and your first round of sts will be larger than the rest.
Good morning Sock-Guru! I have the yarn! I have the needles! I’m following all your sock lessons for my first pair of socks. Generally speaking, I knit only for others -but these socks are for ME! Thank you for all you do to expand the joy of knitting. You are so clear, and concise in your explanations. You teach the “why” so that your lessons are easier to incorporate into knitting, well, everything. How fantastic is that! How wonderful are you! Question: I note that you went up 2 sizes in the cable cast on demonstration. I routinely go up 2 when casting off. But what about going up only one size? Will that still make that first row look odd?😊
If you can control the tension in your cast on, you wouldn't need to go up any needle size at all. The way to find the answer to your question in a way that reflects what your knitting will look like, is to do several swatches, and see what needle size works best for you.
Ok, makes perfect sense, but I am confused as to why you are putting the new stitch on the left hand needle in two different ways. At 6:20 min, you slip it on from underneath, At 7:22 min, you insert left needle from top. Does it matter? Is consistency all that is important?
It's just two variations. I don't usually do it the way I showed at 6:20. I was focused on showing how large to keep the stitch. You'll notice for all the others, I bring the left needle across the front and insert from right to left. It's the same way I do knitting on, which allows you to keep the working needle in the loop and form the next stitch, without pulling it out and re-inserting it. I did a Casual Friday some time last summer where I talked about the two ways of doing knitting on and cable CO. You can see it here: th-cam.com/video/SVGOgEdCQxc/w-d-xo.html There's a link in the description that will jump you to that section, if you want to skip the rest.
Love how you explain things, not just the how, but the why. More importantly, where did you get that t-shirt with the stylized knit stitches! I feel like I need that in my wardrobe. :)
I'm not sure which shirt I was wearing (I didn't go re-watch the video), but usually, I look for knitting t-shirts at every LYS I visit, and at the marketplace of any knitting event I go to. If it's the one with the sts that look like hearts, that was (I think) made by a local woman and I bought it at the LYS where I used to teach (and which is now closed).
I have heard this suggested before but your graphic demo really helps ... if you are doing a sweater, what cast on is the most aesthetic cast on, since fit is not a problem? All my life I have just used LT but now I am refining everything I do, in large thanks to your detailed knit engineering demos.
I tend to use LTCO for almost everything that requires an edge, and I prefer the smooth side to be on the public side (RS) because I like the way it looks. What you think is aesthetically pleasing might be different. Some cast on methods look nice with particular stitch patterns. If you like k1p1 ribbing, you might like the alternating CO or tubular CO for example. There's no "right" or "best" cast on. I like a cast on that I can remember how to do, that I like the look of, and which functions appropriately for the project. Some people might be fussy about aesthetics, and prefer something with less utility and which they have to look up the instructions for every time they do it. :-)
This is a great reminder of how to make the cast on stretchy for cuff-down socks! I am just about to start a new pair of cuff-down socks and want to ask a couple of questions about the cable cast on: 1. I see here when you put the pulled-out loop onto the left-hand needle alongside the spacer needle that you are placing it directly on "as if to purl" and not coming at it to enter it from its bottom side "as if to knit" thus twisting it. What is the difference in how it behaves or performs if you were to do that twist entry - does it take away from its stretchiness to do that, or does it add further stability to twist it like that? 2. Based on look and maybe on function, when do you opt for a cable cast on vs a LTCO?
Hmmm. I wouldn't consider that placing it on the needle as if to purl. It's more like it's placed on the needle as if to ktbl, if I had to describe it. The left needle crosses in front of the loop on the right hand needle, in order to enter it. It's the same way that I do knitting on. The advantage is that it is more efficient to insert the needle for the next CO stitch. With knitting on, the needle is already through the loop, You don't have to take it out and re-insert it to do the next CO stitch. For the cable CO, it's a very slight movement to the left to insert between stitches. I hadn't known until a couple of years ago that anyone did it differently, and looked through my books to see if there was one version that was more standard. Some references don't mention which direction to enter the stitch. Others do. Swatching will show you what the visual, and structural difference is, which isn't much, and then you can decide if you like one better than the other. To see what's happening, use thick yarn, and even bigger needles than you'd normally use. As for choosing cable vs LTCO...I rarely use the cable cast on. I find the LTCO highly versatile, and faster to execute, and I like the way it looks. Other knitters prefer the cable CO. I do tend to find the cable CO to be sturdier, and less flexible/stretchier in general, but again, other knitters will disagree, or have a different preference. For me, the largest circumference I needle my sock cuffs to get past is my ridiculously large heel diagonal, so I use a cast on I know I will for for that (for me, it's the LTCO). Other people use a cable CO for socks, and are perfectly happy.
This was very helpful as although I am an experienced later I’m about to pick my first pair of socks. I just wanted to clarify whether you think the cable cast on is appropriate for socks if you follow the modified method here.
The goal will be for the cast on edge to stretch as much as the fabric itself can stretch. If it doesn't, you may or may not be able to get it past your heel and/or it might be too tight around the leg at the top, where the fabric will have to stretch to its maximum ability. You might very well be able to use the cable cast on for your socks. The only way to know is to try it out, and try it on.
I'm a new knitter and have only learned the long tail cast on and am scared to try other cast on methods. The cable stitch looks interesting and might be easier to learn than these cast on stitches any w[eds of encouragement?
The ribbing isn't what holds up the socks. What holds up the socks is a firm gauge (to prevent the fabric from stretching out too much and getting floppy) and sufficient negative ease. A rigid cast on that's too tight for the leg circumference will want to slide down the leg to the point where it can actually fit. A stretchy CO allows you to get the sock past your heel diagonal (which is typically as large --or larger-- as the circumference of your calf where the edge of the cuff will sit) and to hug your leg comfortably.
Thanks! I knit my socks toe-up, so that hasn't been a problem, usually, but other things. I'm making a scarf that has a 1 or 2 st increase and it calls for cable CO. I wasn't sure I was doing it right, now I can do it confidently.
thank you so much!! i cast on usually with long tail and ive been looking for a more stretchier cast on, and this is perfect and makes a huge difference, which i cant beleive i just didnt figure out before as makes so much sense now to do it as you show. i dont suppose you know of a strechier bind off or a bind of similar to cast on so as they lok similar/same? thanks again !
It's a revelation, once you realize how much control you have over the stretchiness of the LTCO. :-) The Outline Stitch bind off (also known as Casting-On/Cast Off and Stem Stitch Bind Off) will match the smooth side of the long tail cast on. It's a type of sewn bind off (but not *the* sewn bind off). I have a really old video that shows how to do it here: th-cam.com/video/By-jHOdlWsA/w-d-xo.html. You have control over how stretchy or tight it is. If you want to match the bumpy side of the cast on (more likely with flat knitting), you can use the bind off that's actually called the sewn bind off. There are only a handful of cast on methods with matching bind offs.
yes roxanne it totally is, im just absolutely loving it and i mean loving it. i keep casting on loads of things at the mo lol the control you can have is just amazingg. im really so glad i found your tute. and thank you for the help, i will for sure check out the link yo gave me, the info is really helpful as i wasnt sure if there actually was matching bind off so i will for sure now look into these helpful knowing what they are called too. thanks again yo really are a star :)
Thanks!! I am struggling a bit with trying to get the right fit. I have a similar heel diagonal measurement as you do at 12 inches but a bit smaller in the other measurements. So I need a cuff that gets over that heel diagonal but need a snugger fit in other places.
Another wonderful video as usual, thanks a lot for that!! I wonder why I've never seen tubular cast on for socks. Do you know if it would work fine or not? Have you ever tried? Do you know pros & cons for that method? I'd really appreciate your comments about that. Thanks again, you rock it!!
I have a very long heel diagonal, so the sock has to stretch more as it goes around my heel than it does at the point where it sits around my calf. This is not typical, and other people do not have that issue. A tubular CO is not stretchy enough for my heel, but lots of people do use a tubular CO for socks with no issue. Whether or not it will work for you will depend on your foot. I would suggest trying it out on a sample cuff and seeing how well it fits you. Then you will know. :-)
Is there a reason why you are looking for something so specific? Casting on to Flexi-flips is pretty much the same as for any dpn, you're just casting on to fewer of them (2 out of the 3 rather than 3 out of 4 or 4 out of 5). The LTCO isn't done any differently for Flexi-Flips than it is for any other needle.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks for your quick reply! LTCO is the only cast on I know. All sock patterns I have read use Judy's Magic Cast On. I have having difficulty joining in the round and would like to see a video on how to do it correctly. (Hate Magic Loop). Last night, I was trying to join in the round, lost two stitches and couldn't figure how to fix it so I frogged the whole project. This is probably the fourth or fifth time I am starting over. Thanks.
@@leslieridley8653 JMCO is used for toe up socks, creating a closed start for the toe, then increasing for several rounds until you reach the full circumference of the foot. LTCO creates an edge, and would be appropriate for cuff down socks, which start with an open tube.
@@RoxanneRichardson I've done so much reading about knitting socks I'm just trying to learn the best and easiest way for a beginner thank you for all of your suggestions
Not sure what you mean by "the lack"? If I need to CO a large number of sts, I use the LTCO, but instead of measuring off a tail, I use both ends of the same ball of yarn, and then cut the thumb yarn when I'm done with the CO (leaving a 4'' tail). If the yarn is 100% wool (non-superwash), I will spit felt the two tails together, then start the CO near the felted join. Again, cut the thumb yarn once you've completed the CO and continue with the working yarn end.
Laurrie Sobie here- I have enjoyed watching and learning techniques from your videos BUT, what I am looking for is a method that does NOT use the long cast on. I have used it before but do not have my books with me. I can't exactly remember HOW auto do it. It involves a slip stitch - I think - and I cannot handle the thread through several fingers. My arthritis doesn't allow me that control. I do socks and love it but my method is simple holding of the DPS and my right hand wraps the yarn around the needle. I need to be able to follow THAT method.Still having to go through these tutorials, one at a time.Surely someone still knits like I was taught. I carry on ----
The LTCO does not involve slipping stitches. Essentially, you are creating a loop with the tail, using your left thumb, and knitting it with the other strand, which can be held in the left hand (over the left index finger) as for the Continental version, or in the right hand, as for the English/"thumb method". The point of the video is to show that you have control over how loose/tight your cast on is, and that if the problem with your cast on is that it's rigid, it's likely due to over-tightening the edge as you cast on.
YOu can usually substitute any CO you want that will produce an edge, when the CO called for also produces an edge. Tubular CO is often called for when ribbing is k1p1, because it looks great for that particular stitch pattern, but it is by no means required.
QUESTION; Hi Roxanne. I enjoy all your videos so much. My favorite cast on for socks and hats is "The most elastic cast on in the world" by Knitfish which I found on TH-cam. It has such a pretty edge and really is stretchy. I like it because it is a short tail cast on. I have never seen it anywhere else and I am wondering if it has an official name. It is a short video. Sometime could you check it out and tell me if it does have an official name. Thanks so much.
I've never heard of using two strands to improve elasticity. I have heard of it being used to create a more durable edge, in situations where that edge is at increased risk of breaking (due to getting caught or snagged), but those edges are typically sleeve cuffs or sweater hems. Using a two-stranded tail sounds like a coping mechanism to avoid over-tightening the thumb loop as you're casting on using the long tail cast on. Two strands take up more room, and would force the sts on the needle to be spaced further apart. As the video demonstrated, you have complete control over how much you tighten the thumb loop, which has a direct effect on the spacing of those loops on the needle, and the elasticity of the CO edge.
I was really surprised to see that there was no special stitch to get a stretchy cast on like there is for a stretchy cast off, lol. What could be easier than just knitting more loosely?!😂
Ever heard of The Chinese Waitress Cast on. (with crochet hook) it is the most stretchy and beautiful cast on that I know of. I'm sure it is great for socks too. Here is a link of a video I have made a few years ago. cast on chinese waitress with crochet hook Heleen oomen
lol that's ok!! I am try to learn to knit socks specifically knee socks and I've very large calves 17.5 inches in circumference so trying to figure out how much yarn I need would cuff down be best or toe up and then videos to learn techniques lol
I saw someone else video who knitted with an extra needle in both hands. After cast on they took the extra needle away. Insurance of extra loose cast on i guess.
The reason you're here is not necessarily the reason other people are here. All of my videos have time stamped chapters that indicate what each chapter is about, so if you want to skip ahead, you can find the relevant chapter in the timeline at the bottom of the video playback window.
Been knitting for 55 years and you keep teaching this old dog new tricks. Thank you
Congratulation on 100 000 subscribers, Roxanne!
Thank you AGAIN! You are such a great teacher. I know this because I was a teacher for 40 years. Now that I'm retired I promised myself I would learn a new skill every year. Last year was knitting but I still needed a lot more knowledge and you are making it so much easier to learn. I really appreciate you.
This was so helpful!! I am knitting socks for my husband for Christmas and had forgotten the muscle memory for the cast-on...turns out that just leaves me space for the new muscle memory! Really appreciate the video :)
Timeless and so very helpful! TY for this. I’ve been trying to knit an original style “Scott’s war bonnet” (using a recently written pattern and a rewritten pattern from a 16th-17th century written pattern from Scotland). I measured his band size, followed directions, made a loose LTCO and 60% of the body of the hat and he tried it on. He said it was fine, but my finger felt that 1 yarn on the band edge that was so tight it was painful. Yep, ripped all out and very loosely rewound the ball to protect the yarn. I think I will follow your instructions & test the sizing much more often. As always, love your instructions! P
After the stretchy cast on technique was finally shown, after 6 minutes of an almost 9 minute video, I really appreciate the new stretchy cast on tips. The major difficulty with "how to" videos is the preliminary talk that should be in another video of "why this/these methods do not work..." we already know they don't and that's why we are seeking a new technique. I hope this is taken as a constructive suggestion. I watch many where people like you GENEROUSLY knowledge share by making these videos. Respectfully and thank you.
There are times in the description so you can skip to whatever point you want
Thanks for this! I know I tighten too much when I cast on so this was a perfect video with easy to remember tips. I’m casting on my first pair of socks right now.
I cast on using the German twisted cast on method also called Old Norweigian cast on I think. It is perfect imo for stretchy cast ons :)
This is so helpful. I started my first knit socks a while ago and haven't picked it back up because the cast on was so tight. I was going to order bigger needles, but now I know how to fix it. 🙂
Thank you for this great tutorial. Always learn something new from you.
Thanks!
You bet!
Yet another winner tut!! I learned and use the Old Norwegian CO because my LTCO was always too tight for the top of cuffs. Now I know! I'm itching to try that Cable CO with the larger needle though! I bet using an alternating cable CO with a larger needle would be a dandy setup for a 2x2 rib cuff!! 👍 for your shirt as well! 🙂
When I searched for a stretchier CO in my first year of sock knitting, I ended up with the Old Norwegian/Twisted German cast on, as well. It does store more stretch than the LTCO, so it can help, but I was amazed at how stretchy the LTCO could actually be, if it was done right! You could apply these techniques to the Old Norwegian CO, and get an even stretchier CO than what you have already.
I suppose! But executing the LTCO as you suggest - or even the "big stick cable" CO - sounds very appealing to me. Thx for the video!
Thanks for the tips. Definitely helps with my tight LTCO.
Thank you, you have the best tutorials!
I cast on tight too! To cast on, I use a needle .5mm larger and use the german twist. Then I knit the first two rows in that gauge knit flat and then transfer to my DPN. It gives me room to graph and expand that cuff if I screwed up. =P I will definitely be trying your finger spacing tip next time. Thank you!
Some great tips. Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Love your shirt, Rox. It ROCKS!
I always use two needles the size I will knit with to LTCO. That will give me always a very stretchy edge
Wow, this was great! I'd been wondering how to stop my cast-on edges from being so tight, especially relative to my cast-off edges, and I hadn't realised until you demonstrated it that I have definitely been doing the LTCO method with the extra tightening 'dance' for every stitch. Wow. Such a simple fix. Will definitely be working on developing that new muscle memory. Also, I had more or less given up trying to do the cable cast on because it just seemed so impossible and tedious. Don't know why it never occurred to me to put the needle in before tightening. I'm definitely going to give that method another go now. Maybe that will make it slightly easier to pull up the yarn loop, too, which was the other thing I had a lot of trouble with, as it would just slip off almost every time before I could get it through. Very frustrating, but maybe this will solve both issues! Thanks!
Fabulous! That makes so much sense 😎 I just needed someone to show me 👍 Thank you!!
My mom taught me to do the long tail cast on around two needles, so that you automatically have more space inbetween the stitches.
Good idea. I forgot all about that. So much easier
But you also have stretched-out stitches.
@@gy2gy246 I have used the two needle CO, then switch to knitting with one needle on each side and it works, for some reason, the yarn adapts to the project somehow. I have also used a larger needle for the CO, then knit the rest of the garment with the size I want.
amazing tips! thank you!
Thanks so much for these creative ideas! I have tried so many of the other stretchy cast ons and was extremely frustrated and just gave up. I will definitely be using your methods!💗
I cast on over two needle, 1 a a few sizes smaller than the one I'm knitting the sock with and slip it out after the stitches are all cast on.
With your help I have made 6 pairs so far....so much fun..making them for family and friends...can you do a video on using different yarn sizes
Aha! This makes so much sense!! You have completely solved my too-tight cast on issues. Thank you so much! 😊
Thanks. Nicely explained
This works beautifully! Thank you.
Great description and examples. Thank you!
Fantastic tips!!
You're sweet. This was so helpful and I've been knitting since the '60's!
I usually use the Norwegian cast on for my socks.
Another way to get a regular but looser long-tail cast-on is to use two needles, Then you can tighten those loops right up and still have large enough loops. And if you do it that way and tighten them up, it's easier to get regularity of size.
The reason for a tight cast on is that the edge stitches are too close together, not that the loops are too small. If you create large loops, but still have a tight edge, then you might end up with a CO edge that's larger in circumference, but it wouldn't be any stretchier, and your first round of sts will be larger than the rest.
Good morning Sock-Guru! I have the yarn! I have the needles! I’m following all your sock lessons for my first pair of socks. Generally speaking, I knit only for others -but these socks are for ME! Thank you for all you do to expand the joy of knitting. You are so clear, and concise in your explanations. You teach the “why” so that your lessons are easier to incorporate into knitting, well, everything. How fantastic is that! How wonderful are you!
Question: I note that you went up 2 sizes in the cable cast on demonstration. I routinely go up 2 when casting off. But what about going up only one size? Will that still make that first row look odd?😊
If you can control the tension in your cast on, you wouldn't need to go up any needle size at all. The way to find the answer to your question in a way that reflects what your knitting will look like, is to do several swatches, and see what needle size works best for you.
Yet another gem! Thanks for all you share Roxanne.
That tight cast on reminds me of how I used to do it as a beginner knitter ! Inserting the needle for the first row was a pain...
This will also help with hats!
Thank you. This was very helpful.
Another thing I do is cast on with a #2 needle loosely and switch to a #1 for knitting my first round.
I think it was Cat Bordhi who said you should imagine there's a seal sleeping between each CO st.
Thank you 🙏
Best cast on for socks still 4 years later
Ok, makes perfect sense, but I am confused as to why you are putting the new stitch on the left hand needle in two different ways. At 6:20 min, you slip it on from underneath, At 7:22 min, you insert left needle from top. Does it matter? Is consistency all that is important?
It's just two variations. I don't usually do it the way I showed at 6:20. I was focused on showing how large to keep the stitch. You'll notice for all the others, I bring the left needle across the front and insert from right to left. It's the same way I do knitting on, which allows you to keep the working needle in the loop and form the next stitch, without pulling it out and re-inserting it. I did a Casual Friday some time last summer where I talked about the two ways of doing knitting on and cable CO. You can see it here: th-cam.com/video/SVGOgEdCQxc/w-d-xo.html There's a link in the description that will jump you to that section, if you want to skip the rest.
Love how you explain things, not just the how, but the why. More importantly, where did you get that t-shirt with the stylized knit stitches! I feel like I need that in my wardrobe. :)
I'm not sure which shirt I was wearing (I didn't go re-watch the video), but usually, I look for knitting t-shirts at every LYS I visit, and at the marketplace of any knitting event I go to. If it's the one with the sts that look like hearts, that was (I think) made by a local woman and I bought it at the LYS where I used to teach (and which is now closed).
Appreciate your good work. Blessings!
I have heard this suggested before but your graphic demo really helps ... if you are doing a sweater, what cast on is the most aesthetic cast on, since fit is not a problem? All my life I have just used LT but now I am refining everything I do, in large thanks to your detailed knit engineering demos.
I tend to use LTCO for almost everything that requires an edge, and I prefer the smooth side to be on the public side (RS) because I like the way it looks. What you think is aesthetically pleasing might be different. Some cast on methods look nice with particular stitch patterns. If you like k1p1 ribbing, you might like the alternating CO or tubular CO for example. There's no "right" or "best" cast on. I like a cast on that I can remember how to do, that I like the look of, and which functions appropriately for the project. Some people might be fussy about aesthetics, and prefer something with less utility and which they have to look up the instructions for every time they do it. :-)
You are the BEST
Brilliant! Thank you. Several lights are slowly clicking on...
Wish I would have seen this long ago instead of looking for a different way!
This is a great reminder of how to make the cast on stretchy for cuff-down socks! I am just about to start a new pair of cuff-down socks and want to ask a couple of questions about the cable cast on:
1. I see here when you put the pulled-out loop onto the left-hand needle alongside the spacer needle that you are placing it directly on "as if to purl" and not coming at it to enter it from its bottom side "as if to knit" thus twisting it. What is the difference in how it behaves or performs if you were to do that twist entry - does it take away from its stretchiness to do that, or does it add further stability to twist it like that?
2. Based on look and maybe on function, when do you opt for a cable cast on vs a LTCO?
Hmmm. I wouldn't consider that placing it on the needle as if to purl. It's more like it's placed on the needle as if to ktbl, if I had to describe it. The left needle crosses in front of the loop on the right hand needle, in order to enter it. It's the same way that I do knitting on. The advantage is that it is more efficient to insert the needle for the next CO stitch. With knitting on, the needle is already through the loop, You don't have to take it out and re-insert it to do the next CO stitch. For the cable CO, it's a very slight movement to the left to insert between stitches. I hadn't known until a couple of years ago that anyone did it differently, and looked through my books to see if there was one version that was more standard. Some references don't mention which direction to enter the stitch. Others do. Swatching will show you what the visual, and structural difference is, which isn't much, and then you can decide if you like one better than the other. To see what's happening, use thick yarn, and even bigger needles than you'd normally use.
As for choosing cable vs LTCO...I rarely use the cable cast on. I find the LTCO highly versatile, and faster to execute, and I like the way it looks. Other knitters prefer the cable CO. I do tend to find the cable CO to be sturdier, and less flexible/stretchier in general, but again, other knitters will disagree, or have a different preference. For me, the largest circumference I needle my sock cuffs to get past is my ridiculously large heel diagonal, so I use a cast on I know I will for for that (for me, it's the LTCO). Other people use a cable CO for socks, and are perfectly happy.
What a great, and timely, reply! I plan to swatch this and now can do so with the best understanding. My socks-to-be say thank you!
This was very helpful as although I am an experienced later I’m about to pick my first pair of socks. I just wanted to clarify whether you think the cable cast on is appropriate for socks if you follow the modified method here.
The goal will be for the cast on edge to stretch as much as the fabric itself can stretch. If it doesn't, you may or may not be able to get it past your heel and/or it might be too tight around the leg at the top, where the fabric will have to stretch to its maximum ability. You might very well be able to use the cable cast on for your socks. The only way to know is to try it out, and try it on.
I'm a new knitter and have only learned the long tail cast on and am scared to try other cast on methods. The cable stitch looks interesting and might be easier to learn than these cast on stitches any w[eds of encouragement?
What a helpful post! Does the ribbing still hold up the.sock?
The ribbing isn't what holds up the socks. What holds up the socks is a firm gauge (to prevent the fabric from stretching out too much and getting floppy) and sufficient negative ease. A rigid cast on that's too tight for the leg circumference will want to slide down the leg to the point where it can actually fit. A stretchy CO allows you to get the sock past your heel diagonal (which is typically as large --or larger-- as the circumference of your calf where the edge of the cuff will sit) and to hug your leg comfortably.
German twisted cast on is also very stretchy.
What about the German twisted cast on?
I'm not sure I understand your question. What is it that you're wondering about?
Thanks! I knit my socks toe-up, so that hasn't been a problem, usually, but other things. I'm making a scarf that has a 1 or 2 st increase and it calls for cable CO. I wasn't sure I was doing it right, now I can do it confidently.
thank you so much!! i cast on usually with long tail and ive been looking for a more stretchier cast on, and this is perfect and makes a huge difference, which i cant beleive i just didnt figure out before as makes so much sense now to do it as you show.
i dont suppose you know of a strechier bind off or a bind of similar to cast on so as they lok similar/same?
thanks again !
It's a revelation, once you realize how much control you have over the stretchiness of the LTCO. :-) The Outline Stitch bind off (also known as Casting-On/Cast Off and Stem Stitch Bind Off) will match the smooth side of the long tail cast on. It's a type of sewn bind off (but not *the* sewn bind off). I have a really old video that shows how to do it here: th-cam.com/video/By-jHOdlWsA/w-d-xo.html. You have control over how stretchy or tight it is. If you want to match the bumpy side of the cast on (more likely with flat knitting), you can use the bind off that's actually called the sewn bind off. There are only a handful of cast on methods with matching bind offs.
yes roxanne it totally is, im just absolutely loving it and i mean loving it. i keep casting on loads of things at the mo lol the control you can have is just amazingg. im really so glad i found your tute.
and thank you for the help, i will for sure check out the link yo gave me, the info is really helpful as i wasnt sure if there actually was matching bind off so i will for sure now look into these helpful knowing what they are called too.
thanks again yo really are a star :)
Roxanne Richardson olloksecret
Thanks!! I am struggling a bit with trying to get the right fit. I have a similar heel diagonal measurement as you do at 12 inches but a bit smaller in the other measurements. So I need a cuff that gets over that heel diagonal but need a snugger fit in other places.
Can you please share your thoughts oon the german twisted cast on?
Another wonderful video as usual, thanks a lot for that!! I wonder why I've never seen tubular cast on for socks. Do you know if it would work fine or not? Have you ever tried? Do you know pros & cons for that method? I'd really appreciate your comments about that. Thanks again, you rock it!!
I have a very long heel diagonal, so the sock has to stretch more as it goes around my heel than it does at the point where it sits around my calf. This is not typical, and other people do not have that issue. A tubular CO is not stretchy enough for my heel, but lots of people do use a tubular CO for socks with no issue. Whether or not it will work for you will depend on your foot. I would suggest trying it out on a sample cuff and seeing how well it fits you. Then you will know. :-)
Do you have a video showing how to cast on with Flexiflips for long tail cast on?
Is there a reason why you are looking for something so specific? Casting on to Flexi-flips is pretty much the same as for any dpn, you're just casting on to fewer of them (2 out of the 3 rather than 3 out of 4 or 4 out of 5). The LTCO isn't done any differently for Flexi-Flips than it is for any other needle.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks for your quick reply! LTCO is the only cast on I know. All sock patterns I have read use Judy's Magic Cast On. I have having difficulty joining in the round and would like to see a video on how to do it correctly. (Hate Magic Loop). Last night, I was trying to join in the round, lost two stitches and couldn't figure how to fix it so I frogged the whole project. This is probably the fourth or fifth time I am starting over. Thanks.
@@leslieridley8653 JMCO is used for toe up socks, creating a closed start for the toe, then increasing for several rounds until you reach the full circumference of the foot. LTCO creates an edge, and would be appropriate for cuff down socks, which start with an open tube.
@@RoxanneRichardson I've done so much reading about knitting socks I'm just trying to learn the best and easiest way for a beginner thank you for all of your suggestions
@@leslieridley8653 If you haven't found the answer yet, it's TH-cam.
I have always used the lack And like it. What's the best cast on for over 300 sts.
Not sure what you mean by "the lack"? If I need to CO a large number of sts, I use the LTCO, but instead of measuring off a tail, I use both ends of the same ball of yarn, and then cut the thumb yarn when I'm done with the CO (leaving a 4'' tail). If the yarn is 100% wool (non-superwash), I will spit felt the two tails together, then start the CO near the felted join. Again, cut the thumb yarn once you've completed the CO and continue with the working yarn end.
Laurrie Sobie here- I have enjoyed watching and learning techniques from your videos BUT, what I am looking for
is a method that does NOT use the long cast on. I have used it before but do not have my books with me. I can't
exactly remember HOW auto do it. It involves a slip stitch - I think - and I cannot handle the thread through several
fingers. My arthritis doesn't allow me that control. I do socks and love it but my method is simple holding of the
DPS and my right hand wraps the yarn around the needle. I need to be able to follow THAT method.Still having to
go through these tutorials, one at a time.Surely someone still knits like I was taught. I carry on ----
The LTCO does not involve slipping stitches. Essentially, you are creating a loop with the tail, using your left thumb, and knitting it with the other strand, which can be held in the left hand (over the left index finger) as for the Continental version, or in the right hand, as for the English/"thumb method". The point of the video is to show that you have control over how loose/tight your cast on is, and that if the problem with your cast on is that it's rigid, it's likely due to over-tightening the edge as you cast on.
I failed to knit tubular cast on for my hat project. Can I use this method instead?
YOu can usually substitute any CO you want that will produce an edge, when the CO called for also produces an edge. Tubular CO is often called for when ribbing is k1p1, because it looks great for that particular stitch pattern, but it is by no means required.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you for your reply!
QUESTION; Hi Roxanne. I enjoy all your videos so much. My favorite cast on for socks and hats is "The most elastic cast on in the world" by Knitfish which I found on TH-cam. It has such a pretty edge and really is stretchy. I like it because it is a short tail cast on. I have never seen it anywhere else and I am wondering if it has an official name. It is a short video. Sometime could you check it out and tell me if it does have an official name. Thanks so much.
Looks the same as "Jeny's Stretchy Slipknot Cast-on" to me
@@jmohr00 Thank you I will check that out!!😊😊😊
I have a question, if I may. Would doubling the tail, and using 2 strands for the tail help with the elasticity, or is this practice is a myth ??
I've never heard of using two strands to improve elasticity. I have heard of it being used to create a more durable edge, in situations where that edge is at increased risk of breaking (due to getting caught or snagged), but those edges are typically sleeve cuffs or sweater hems. Using a two-stranded tail sounds like a coping mechanism to avoid over-tightening the thumb loop as you're casting on using the long tail cast on. Two strands take up more room, and would force the sts on the needle to be spaced further apart. As the video demonstrated, you have complete control over how much you tighten the thumb loop, which has a direct effect on the spacing of those loops on the needle, and the elasticity of the CO edge.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you very much. These are great information. I learn so much from you...
I was really surprised to see that there was no special stitch to get a stretchy cast on like there is for a stretchy cast off, lol. What could be easier than just knitting more loosely?!😂
Ever heard of The Chinese Waitress Cast on. (with crochet hook) it is the most stretchy and beautiful cast on that I know of. I'm sure it is great for socks too. Here is a link of a video I have made a few years ago. cast on chinese waitress with crochet hook Heleen oomen
Are these for top down socks??
Sorry, I thought it was clear that the issue discussed was a CO stretchy enough to surround the calf!
lol that's ok!! I am try to learn to knit socks specifically knee socks and I've very large calves 17.5 inches in circumference so trying to figure out how much yarn I need would cuff down be best or toe up and then videos to learn techniques lol
vicki lynch very pink knit
I saw someone else video who knitted with an extra needle in both hands. After cast on they took the extra needle away. Insurance of extra loose cast on i guess.
If you use two needles, they will be loose.
here's the link: th-cam.com/video/pF_5zVZRDUg/w-d-xo.html
Too much yapping...just demonstrate, that's why we're here.
The reason you're here is not necessarily the reason other people are here. All of my videos have time stamped chapters that indicate what each chapter is about, so if you want to skip ahead, you can find the relevant chapter in the timeline at the bottom of the video playback window.