Epic Battles Waterloo update Painting the infantry sprue from Warlord games Wellington's British Set
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- Welcome to an update of my Epic Waterloo British project. So after unboxing the starter set, I was keen to crack on with painting them. Here you can see the results (good and bad) of that endeavour. I welcome all comments and advice on painting, history and colour schemes along with rules about the game.
The Grenadier and Light companies were known as Flank companies. They had different plumes on the shakoes and also different epaulettes. The Light companies were intended to skirmish ahead of the battalion whilst the Grenadiers were the more experienced and bigger men, intended to lead assaults. In the Napoleonic Wars they didn’t usually carry grenades. Both companies were occasionally ’brigaded’ with the Flank Companies from other battalions to create elite battalions, usually for a specific task. This happened less during the Napoleonic wars than previously, probably due to the creation of the Light Infantry and the Rifle regiments.
Thanks for the info. There's so much I had no idea on. Finding it really interesting
Nice video matey, great rescue on the primer. Will give you a shout out on my next video
Cool. Thanks. Been catching up on your vids. They are really good.
Excellent video of some excellent close -order figures. Cool top.
Thanks for kind words. Not sure i can paint to that standard all time as I'll never have a fully painted army. But at same time I struggle to paint fast and sloppy. On my second sprue now. And a bit faster but not by much.
The problem with the priming is well known for Warlord Epic figures. It's not just Citadel. I had the problem and no longer use spray primer (for anything). I hand prime with Vallejo surface primer, which I now much prefer.
Thanks for the heads up. That's interesting. Have you heard if washing the sprue solves the issue?
@@midlandergaming7319 No, washing doesn't seem to change the result. In addition, the priming problem actually damages the figure(s), so stripping them may not help. After the primer is removed, the figure remains rough.
BTW, the English officer sashes are (dark) red, crimson really - although a lot of people paint them the coat color. And the the elite companies really have no effect in most games. Mostly, they are just factored into the battalion rating.
@@haroldhardrada7449 ahh thanks for the advice on sash. Shame it's red as it'll not stand out much next to red jacket. I'll have a think how I want to do it. Looks like I defo need to get my airbrush up and running
@@midlandergaming7319 I'm almost finished painting up two starter sets, one french one British plus 1 box Highlanders and Old guard. Not had a single sprue react to primer. I've used Halfords white matt primer for most and now switched to Colour forge white primer (my favourite now) for an even better result. I have never washed any of the sprues. Hope that helps
@@marksfishfrenzy Hi, that's really good to hear. I'd been looking at those colour forge sprays. You've convinced me to order some and try them out. I have just sprayed another sprue using Vallejo hobby spray first and it was ok, but I was extra careful and it was a warmer day. I'd just like to know exactly what went wrong before so I know what not to repeat.
I believe the effect is due to the plastic of the miniatures. I sprayed some of the French miniatures with citadel wraithbone and corax white cans on a cool desert night in Arizona (65-70 degree Fahrenheit) and the result looks similar to yours. I use an airbrush to prime all of these now.
I am wondering if it is something to do with colouring the plastics. I have just redone a sprue using an initial coat of Vallejo hobby spray and it came out good. However I did several light coats and "wafted" the sprue each time to get any solvent to evaporate as quickly as possible before it reacts with plastic. I then sprayed over with citadel white. And it was ok. It is also slightly warmer. So all things combined I got a good result. It does make me want to do some tests and trials to work out where the true concern lies. So I can be sure to work round it.
They look superb.
Thanks for the kind words. My only worry is how long it takes. lol
Nicely done, beautiful painting and impressive mass effect!
Thanks for kind words. Just finished a second unit last night so will do an update soon. Cavalry will be next to paint.
Those have come out looking great,I find for primer I'm using matt white plastic primer from the range for about 6.99 a can,still slowly doing the acw so as much as I like the waterloo stuff I don't fancy painting that many,that being said I'm planning to use French sprues for Mexicans for a alamo game with conversions from the acw for texians and as for waterloo I'm looking at the figures to restore and change the 1975 airfix waterloo game and change out the old 1/72nd figures,best of luck for the painting and looking forward for updates.
That sounds cool. Would love to see your progress. Thanks for the kind words and checking out my vids.
ive used a air bush for all mine and in warm and cold weather with a nice clean spray every time and i only use va paints
Cool. Tbh I did want to start using an airbrush eventually, especially for terrain projects. So maybe this is the push for me to finally set it up. Not looking forward to the learning curve though. Lol
Excellent job man! They look great!👍🍻
Thank you very much. Despite the chore as they are small and so many, I really enjoy them.
They're looking fantastic! It's a shame about the frosting but I also got frosting on a free Epic Waterloo sprue I got. It's weird to see that you also had the same issue.
In 28mm scale black powder you would normally break off the grenadiers and light company to be the skirmish scream of a unit. In Epic scale they're on a base with regular infantry but they can work the same way. Otherwise they have no effect in-game and are modelled for historical uniform reasons. Some armies had full units of just grenadiers and light infantry. British only had full units of light infantry and they have their own stats in the rule book and in epic scale you can get away with using the same minis.
I've also been trying to recommend you a resource to help with painting these but it looks like even referencing it gets my comments automatically hidden for some reason.
Thanks for the response. That's strange you also got frosting. Can I ask the brand of spray you used?
Also thanks for the rules on the grenadiers. Glad I was on right lines. What real life differences was there? What makes you a grenadier for example?
@@midlandergaming7319 For the spray, I was also using Citadel Corax White I believe.
Historically speaking, grenadiers were selected from the tallest and strongest soldiers in a battalion and would be specialised in assaulting positions and fortifications. The name comes from when they were armed with grenades but they had been mostly phased out by the Napoleonic wars. The light company on the other hand were selected from the fastest, smartest, and best shots of the battalion and specialised in skirmishing and sharpshooting.
However in practice who got into each company was entirely based on the company Majors bartering with each other over who goes where as everyone wanted to have the best men for themselves. But the grenadiers and light company usually got first pick.
@@Featherus_ oh wow. Thanks for the explanation. That's perfect. I didn't know grenades were a thing in this period. So wasn't sure if grenadier originated from some other background. I do intend to research more about this era etc. But my times been spent painting and editing. Lol.
Citadel sprays can be very finicky I've found, I do like the rustolium ones and army painter, if you can find a can that doesn't leak.
One thing I find with citadel sprays is they are very unforgiving, pull back a bit more I've found if you're closer than a foot to the model the frosting will always happen regardless of environmental factors.
Thanks for comments. I was going to buy an army painter black but the store was out, so went with citadel. In past I've just used hycote as its really cheap and gives a good finish. but i've ran out of that.
Where abouts are you guys based in midlands? On basing, I've stopped painting the boots and strip bases as I do a nice thick splodge of PVA and then drip into my home made sand/flock mix and you can't even see the base/boots. Saves time when you're doing hundreds.
Hi Markuz. Nice tip on the basing. I'll let my mates know about it as an option to speed things up. We are mostly either around North side of West Midlands or near border of South Staffordshire. Basically within a 3 miles radius of Cannock.
Never encountered the frosting effect and have been using the color for a while. Maybe a second test when it's warmer again?
The painting looks good. "Basilican Grey" was a disappointment for me. Black Templer is a lot easer to paint for me.
Yes think I'm going to do some tests with sprays on empty sprues to see what's going on. Before risking more models
@@midlandergaming7319 Keep us informed. 😉 Googled for known Problems but couldn't find any.
@@totalburnout5424 yes I've searched but couldn't find anything online. I've done a quick trial, but I have a few different brands of spray so will try a range. I also want to do it when warmer to eliminate that as a factor
Use crimson for the sashes.
Thanks. It looked like brown in the images. Which i didnt like. I'll try red, but it's a shame it will be lost in the overall red of the uniform.
I never use aerosols. Too risky. Not as good as brush priming.