This video shares a great disassembly of the start solenoid, along with a vocal description of how it works. I recommend this video to learn and understand this mechanical part. Have a great day.
That’s a great idea especially since I have recorded both the four and five pole. Looking back I guess I didn’t know if it would’ve worked or fallen apart with the electric current.
Can you make a video related to how 3 terminal solenoid works, and wiring? My 1951 Ford F1 has one and I'm trying to wiring without burn the truck down lol. Thank you.
You asked for comments. I would love to get something educational from your video. But I cannot glean anything from it. You might ask why? Because every time I am ready to look closely and connect the visual with your words, you run the video on such an extreme fast forward that no one's eyes can take it in. It's like trying to focus on a weed whacker string while it is running full speed! PLEASE! Go back and re-edit your video and let us actually SEE.
Thanks for your feedback. I suppose one way to handle your comment if it’s a question is to look at an image of what it looked like before it was uninstalled. If there is no image, then refer to documentation with the closest ignition setup to your machine
Question, I just finished up a repair on a 70-80s wood chipper I found a few issues. 1 the resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil was melted and getting very warm every time the ignition is switched on. Also I noticed from the ignition coil pos. terminal there is a second wire running to the “I” terminal on the 4 post starter solenoid. On your solenoid schematic you show the “I” terminal is connected directly the the starter terminal. When I watch you take the solenoid apart it appears the “l” terminal is actually connected directly to the contact plate. That way when the ignition switch is turned to the run position the power wire from the coil to the “I” terminal will not be shorted to the starter motor. Can anybody understand what I mean by this? The way I see it the “I” terminal should be open until the starter solenoid is activated then is should be energized.
Thank you for noting the electrical diagrams, since they cannot be revised in the published video the revisions to the electrical diagrams are linked in the description.
Thank you for noting this. From your prespective, on a 4 pole, where is the location for the the ground or equalvilent of a negative terminal to allow the electricity to flow through anc complete the circuit? On the video, I mentioned this because while probing teh positive lead on the terminal for the positive 12v, the negative probe showed the current is able to pass through the mouting bracket/including the holes.
I think I have a solenoid issue that is not grounding. I went from a 3 pole to 4 pole solenoid on the boat and I can start it up but it does not allow the starter to disengage and actually keeps cranking the engine when ignition switch is off. Am I missing a way to ground it that is obvious?
I would agree with the previous reply to this comment, that this relay (aka. solenoid) is not directional. The components on the inside it look as though they just allow the current to continue to flow through in the direction it is already flowing, much like a wire. Side note: there's an electronic component called a diode that can can conduct electricity in one direction.
In the video the schematic of the solenoid shows that the “I” terminal is connected directly to the starter lug. If that is true, then it would be directional, however I believe the schematic is incorrect and I think that the “I” terminal is connected to the contact plate, thus the “I” terminal stays open until the solenoid is activated. If I am correct then I believe the solenoid what be bi-directional.
Your relay/solenoid with the pole for a ground is similar to the 5 pole that was previously installed on the tractor project. It had the 5th pole as a ground.
but what i want to know is how come i can only get the engine to torn over if i have to go straight from i Terminal) and s (terminal) straight to the battery and and will not do anything with the key. and i get no spark
Updated diagrams are linked in the description. As far as the solenoid/relay is concerned, the engine should only turn over from the battery and starter posts. The s should be for the key, which needs 12v from the battery to complete the circuit for the coil inside the solenoid/relay to be magnetic. If your key doesn’t work it may be wired incorrectly and/or something in the wiring or key switch itself is broken.
Sorry, I do not understand Spanish language enough to speak it. Lo siento, no entiendo el idioma español lo suficiente como para hablarlo. No se español.
What about SR type starter selenoid? I do not have points I have 4 pin gm ignition module with e core type ignition coil . So I have problem there me fuse pops . I did try to use diode flip wires swap pins on e core coil nothing just fuse pops. So some thing is polarity sensitive . So how can I bypass this problems??? I have multipel selenoids wuld useing 2 of those selenoids do the trick ?
I am unfamiliar with SR type solenoid. I'm guessing that the 4 pin GM is for a GM HEI distributor. In theory if you had a very simple electrical system you could use a 4 pole starter relay (solenoid), with a GM HEI distributor setup. The best option may be to start with the diagram for the 4 pin ignition module then trace back through the entire circuit for your electrical as it should be stock. After referencing the stock wiring, then cross reference that with the 4 pin and mods have been done. In my humble opinion two starter relays (solenoids) should not be necessary in a single electrical circuit.
Is I ever connected to the ground? I have an old tractor that was doing nothing and now it is turning over at least but I have no spark. Is my coil bad? I am confused.
I’ve seen some solenoids/relays that look like they have a connection to ground and some without. Ground for the solenoid is likely to complete the circuit for the coil to become magnetic. If the tractor engine is turning over it is likely that the solenoid/relay is functioning. You can probably do a couple of checks (with proper safety procedures). One may be to test if the coil is receiving 12 volts with a multimeter or 12v test light. Another may be to test if you have spark with a spark test looks like a wired test light between the spark plug wire and the spark plug (so you don’t have to test with an open spark). Seeing spark also assumes that your distributor (cap, rotor, points are functioning properly). If the coil can be pulled out, I have a video where I tested an old and new ignition coil titled Ford 9N ignition coil change.
@@TryAdaptLearn I tried everything so far but the points. I didn't want to get into that box of worms. Plus isn't there a little condenser can that is on them that may be faulty. I will probably try that next month when I go there. I may need to buy some Silicone sealer to close it up after. If it's got moisture I want to try to stop it. I will take some really fine sandpaper and close the gap and clean them. Then I will use a Matchbook and regap them to it. I hope this solves the problem. White stuff will be falling soon.
This video shares a great disassembly of the start solenoid, along with a vocal description of how it works. I recommend this video to learn and understand this mechanical part. Have a great day.
Thank you for your feedback and recommendation. It is much appreciated.
Yes sir, your welcome.
Curious why you didn't hook it up to power while it was open to show how it actually worked. Enjoyed the video.
That’s a great idea especially since I have recorded both the four and five pole. Looking back I guess I didn’t know if it would’ve worked or fallen apart with the electric current.
@@TryAdaptLearn looking forward to the next one!
the only thing that moves is the small metal bar that shorts 2 big lugs
Can you make a video related to how 3 terminal solenoid works, and wiring?
My 1951 Ford F1 has one and I'm trying to wiring without burn the truck down lol.
Thank you.
You asked for comments. I would love to get something educational from your video. But I cannot glean anything from it. You might ask why? Because every time I am ready to look closely and connect the visual with your words, you run the video on such an extreme fast forward that no one's eyes can take it in. It's like trying to focus on a weed whacker string while it is running full speed!
PLEASE! Go back and re-edit your video and let us actually SEE.
How about forgetting how you unhooked it and hooking it back up
Thanks for your feedback. I suppose one way to handle your comment if it’s a question is to look at an image of what it looked like before it was uninstalled. If there is no image, then refer to documentation with the closest ignition setup to your machine
Question, I just finished up a repair on a 70-80s wood chipper I found a few issues. 1 the resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil was melted and getting very warm every time the ignition is switched on. Also I noticed from the ignition coil pos. terminal there is a second wire running to the “I” terminal on the 4 post starter solenoid. On your solenoid schematic you show the “I” terminal is connected directly the the starter terminal. When I watch you take the solenoid apart it appears the “l” terminal is actually connected directly to the contact plate. That way when the ignition switch is turned to the run position the power wire from the coil to the “I” terminal will not be shorted to the starter motor. Can anybody understand what I mean by this? The way I see it the “I” terminal should be open until the starter solenoid is activated then is should be energized.
Thank you for noting the electrical diagrams, since they cannot be revised in the published video the revisions to the electrical diagrams are linked in the description.
the mounting holes are not part of the circuit on the 4 pole they are part of it on 3 pole
Thank you for noting this. From your prespective, on a 4 pole, where is the location for the the ground or equalvilent of a negative terminal to allow the electricity to flow through anc complete the circuit? On the video, I mentioned this because while probing teh positive lead on the terminal for the positive 12v, the negative probe showed the current is able to pass through the mouting bracket/including the holes.
That video sucked big time.
I think I have a solenoid issue that is not grounding. I went from a 3 pole to 4 pole solenoid on the boat and I can start it up but it does not allow the starter to disengage and actually keeps cranking the engine when ignition switch is off. Am I missing a way to ground it that is obvious?
hpw many amps does the solenoid pull to activate and hold the plunger
This is a great question. Unfortunately I do not know the answer since I did not test the amperage prior to dissembling the relay (solenoid).
There is no continuity between the chassis and the S pole.
This makes sense considering your other comment that your relay/solenoid is ground from a pole and not the chassis.
Is the Relay directional... Meaning, does it matter which post the main starter or battery power is connected to? Thanks
no it is not directional
I would agree with the previous reply to this comment, that this relay (aka. solenoid) is not directional. The components on the inside it look as though they just allow the current to continue to flow through in the direction it is already flowing, much like a wire. Side note: there's an electronic component called a diode that can can conduct electricity in one direction.
In the video the schematic of the solenoid shows that the “I” terminal is connected directly to the starter lug. If that is true, then it would be directional, however I believe the schematic is incorrect and I think that the “I” terminal is connected to the contact plate, thus the “I” terminal stays open until the solenoid is activated. If I am correct then I believe the solenoid what be bi-directional.
Thanks for sharing. It now makes more sense for me. Cheers
Awesome, glad it helped. Thank you for your feedback.
On my solenoid it does not use the chassis ground. It uses ground from one of the small poles.
Your relay/solenoid with the pole for a ground is similar to the 5 pole that was previously installed on the tractor project. It had the 5th pole as a ground.
@@TryAdaptLearn what are you calling5th pole
but what i want to know is how come i can only get the engine to torn over if i have to go straight from i Terminal) and s (terminal) straight to the battery and and will not do anything with the key. and i get no spark
Updated diagrams are linked in the description. As far as the solenoid/relay is concerned, the engine should only turn over from the battery and starter posts. The s should be for the key, which needs 12v from the battery to complete the circuit for the coil inside the solenoid/relay to be magnetic. If your key doesn’t work it may be wired incorrectly and/or something in the wiring or key switch itself is broken.
Espliquen en español
Sorry, I do not understand Spanish language enough to speak it. Lo siento, no entiendo el idioma español lo suficiente como para hablarlo. No se español.
Great video!
Thank you for your feedback.
Very clear, now I understand 🤯
That’s great. Glad the video was able to help.
What about SR type starter selenoid?
I do not have points I have 4 pin gm ignition module with e core type ignition coil .
So I have problem there me fuse pops .
I did try to use diode flip wires swap pins on e core coil nothing just fuse pops.
So some thing is polarity sensitive .
So how can I bypass this problems???
I have multipel selenoids wuld useing 2 of those selenoids do the trick ?
I am unfamiliar with SR type solenoid. I'm guessing that the 4 pin GM is for a GM HEI distributor. In theory if you had a very simple electrical system you could use a 4 pole starter relay (solenoid), with a GM HEI distributor setup. The best option may be to start with the diagram for the 4 pin ignition module then trace back through the entire circuit for your electrical as it should be stock. After referencing the stock wiring, then cross reference that with the 4 pin and mods have been done. In my humble opinion two starter relays (solenoids) should not be necessary in a single electrical circuit.
Is I ever connected to the ground? I have an old tractor that was doing nothing and now it is turning over at least but I have no spark. Is my coil bad? I am confused.
I’ve seen some solenoids/relays that look like they have a connection to ground and some without. Ground for the solenoid is likely to complete the circuit for the coil to become magnetic. If the tractor engine is turning over it is likely that the solenoid/relay is functioning. You can probably do a couple of checks (with proper safety procedures). One may be to test if the coil is receiving 12 volts with a multimeter or 12v test light. Another may be to test if you have spark with a spark test looks like a wired test light between the spark plug wire and the spark plug (so you don’t have to test with an open spark). Seeing spark also assumes that your distributor (cap, rotor, points are functioning properly). If the coil can be pulled out, I have a video where I tested an old and new ignition coil titled Ford 9N ignition coil change.
@@TryAdaptLearn I tried everything so far but the points. I didn't want to get into that box of worms. Plus isn't there a little condenser can that is on them that may be faulty. I will probably try that next month when I go there. I may need to buy some Silicone sealer to close it up after. If it's got moisture I want to try to stop it. I will take some really fine sandpaper and close the gap and clean them. Then I will use a Matchbook and regap them to it. I hope this solves the problem. White stuff will be falling soon.
Nice
Thank you
Very Good!!!
Thank you for watching and leaving the compliment.
@@TryAdaptLearn Yes
That was so great explanation thank you so much even though I knew how it works I never actually open one
Thank you for watching and your feedback.
👍👍👍👍
Nice work
Thank you for your feedback, it’s much appreciated.