Is Your Ford Not Starting Or Cranking? Check The Starter Relay! by
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When placing the screwdriver on the solenoid, YOU MUST HAVE THE KEY TURNED TO RUN for this to work.
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This did start the truck for me, preventing a ride in a tow truck, but it did have me ride in an ambulance. A word of caution to those who try this, don't stand between 2 vehicles doing this. I stood in front of my truck, behind another car in the parking lot, to keep my face away from the sparks. When it started, it jumped forward, pinning me. I don't blame the video poster at all for this, but wanted to share this as a warning to others. Thankfully I'm all good, with no injuries other than some bruising.
Holy crap! Thank god you're ok!
@23redwings23 my truck was in park when I did it. It didn't move forward a ton, but maybe a couple of inches. Enough to pin me though. I'm glad your situation wasn't any worse.
@@pat2595 truck one pride zero 😂😂
@@GettinJunkDone Since everyone is getting pinned you should probably pin this comment 🤣 Thanks for the tutorial 👍🏽
Moron put it in neutral with the emergency brake on !!! 🤦🏻♂️🤣 What an idiot boy you can fix a truck but you CAN NOT fix STUPID 🤣
Simple video but VERY informative. Alot of people try to make this complicative video and lose focus on the main point . This video was a perfect example of simple and straight to the point. Thanx!
I've done this repair a few times on various cars there are two things to keep in mind. The first is that the two spuds are copper (sometimes they have a silver-grey coating but they are copper studs) and they can be twisted off very easily, use no more than 60 inch-pounds of torque. Second, the truck in the video has only a few wires going to it, on a Lincoln or later model cars there will be more, not only do you have to make sure that wires from stud (A go bake on stud (A you also must carefully note the order and angular alignment and put them back in exactly the same way. If you put them back sloppily and try to make them seat by torquing the nut you will twist the stud off.
Thank you for saving me tow and mechanic. Video well articulated and to the point. You guys have saved people huge amounts of time and dollars.
Agreed. Very helpful video.
Got me home after work, stranded in a bad area after dark. Thank you!
That's what its all about, good work!
I was trying to get home from football practice, was stuck for almost 2 hours and bam! Problem solver 😎 it worked for my 94 F-150 Flareside
This is an excellent video. I was hearing a click about half the time, so the solenoid wasn't completely dead, but it wasn't closing the circuit. My truck starts fine now. The job took me about 30 minutes
Good work, thanks for watching!!
I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart, you saved me lots of grieves, money, and frustration. I bridged the terminal it started right up. thank you thank you sir
Thanks for watching!
CRAZY!!!!! I did what you explained and this is what happened to me. It was very late at night almost morning. I was parked in front of the house. Jump it and it lunged and knocked me to the ground. I hit my head on the pavement and was out cold. I don’t know how long I laid there but when I came to I was under the running car. I crawled out got up looked around to see if anyone had seen what had happened. No one was up. So I got in and drove away. I never thought this had ever happened to anyone else until I read the comments.
This HELPED ME OUT & KNOCKED ME OUT THE SAME TIME. thank you for helping!!!
Omg, lol
Moral of the story stand to the side of the truck
Hey Everyone, thanks for watching. Be sure to check out what's happening with this truck nowadays. I'm completely rebuilding it from the ground up. You can follow this link for the playlist. Thanks!
th-cam.com/play/PLHRSPnh4bEkx3DBhC0MNVElRx1hxOu952.html
I like the vid. I do believe part of the info is incorrect unfortunately. Because my old solenoid, as well as the brand new one I just put on, both will still jump the car started. So I do t think it’s accurate to say if it jumps off the solenoid it’s a bad solenoid because my brand new solenoid still does it
It's supposed to, that's why the new one does it. The old one might now be bad.
If a new solenoid doesn't get the truck started, the solenoid wasn't the problem.
This person said no matter old or new solenoid it only starts from the solenoid the solenoid isn't the issue it's probably the neutral safety switch.
Just replaced the solenoid and truck still won't start. Tried the solenoid jump and it doesn't crank nor make a spark. What might that indicate?
Thanks for sharing that video I was just at a gas station and an F-150 was stranded there look pretty stressed out I started helping him to troubleshoot the issue I looked up the vehicle and the issue that is seen to be having and your video popped up after about the dude was there like 30 45 minutes came across your video started like a champ
Awesome job! Glad it helped!
Thank you. I have a 1991 Ford Jamboree with this issue and I'm learning how to fix things myself. Your video is hands down the best as far as explaining and showing without a lot of fluff thrown in! Greatly appreciated!!
Thanks for watching and the kind words!
@@GettinJunkDone you are more than welcome. Turns out it's the ignition (fingers crossed). Changed starter first - didn't work. Changed solenoid - still didn't work. Now I'm told it should be ignition.
8 years later and you still the man . Fixed it 👌🏾
Glad it helped, nice work!
Thanks for the video. My 89 f150 did this out of nowhere at the bike trail yesterday. 1st video that popped up on my Google search, got me home and going to change the solenoid today.
Great! Glad you got off the trail safely!
2019 it worked for my 2000 Ford F-250 i was almost stuck at my kids school until I stumbled across this video..thanks a lot!!
Ha! You saved the day .. been trying to tap the starter , get it in park ( light for dash showing what gear your in only showed in reverse, towed it to unlock the gear etc. Watched your video and there was no sparks at first . Then I tapped it and cleaned the right plug and then sparked , jumped in and it started right up! Yay saves me 165 to get it towed . Thank you so much 🙏
And this is what it's all about! I'm glad it helped and thanks for watching!
Before jumping those posts, be careful to be sure it is out of gear if you have a manual transmission, and remember it will crank but not start if you don't have the key in the run position
Exactly! Thanks for the additional info.
Ha I knew about how your suppose to leave the key in the run position, and I still spent about 15min wondering why it wouldn't crank.. But yur comment made me double check it.. 👌Thanks haha
Great video only other piece of advice for people watching is to take a jumper cable from the positive post of battery and put power to the S lead (top wire that you see him pull off) and this will simulate signal from the ignition switch. If you just screw driver across the leads this is not proving that you are getting signal from the ignition switch....if you do not check to see if your getting signal to this S lead when you are trying to start the vehicle then your problem could possibly be faulty ignition switch in the column or failed clutch/neutral safety switch. Hope this helps
Excellent point and definitely something to consider. Thanks for the great comment.
This comment saved me. If you guys can't get it started by bridging, try jumping from positive terminal to that top post.
@@elid9196 I jump mine from the s post to the cable post running to the starter.
this also worked on my 99 expedition with a 4.2 all I did to diagnose was the screwdriver test. thank you
This was a very helpful video. Thanks for sharing.
For people trouble shooting here, check for corrosion in your wiring. Make sure you have good contact between the battery and solenoid. Make sure your battery connectors do not have corrosion. Make sure you have a good ground contact to the chassis, too. There is a negative (black) wire that goes from the negative terminal of the battery to the chassis. Make sure it is not corroded.
Also, make sure your relays and fuses are not corroded and are making good contact. Just taking them out and putting them back in should fix any corrosion issues, but I would clean the terminals if you see corrosion on them.
Thanks man. You saved me from having to pay for a tow. Two thumbs up on this video.
Glad it helped!!
Thank you!!! Thank you! You saved me from walking home in the middle of the night and to save me some money. Greetings from Slovenia.
My truck is broken down @ work I was going to replace the starter but now I think this is my problem co click nothing same as you diagnosis Thanks, Man!!.
Thank you so much for this video! My 97 ford explorer was doing this, no start/no crank. I could not find the dang problem. I came across your video and gave it a try. Started right up
Dude you’re the man. I jumped it and It actually started my truck and now the starter relay works. WTF!! I got another relay just in case but this saved my ass
Thank you for clear and understandable instructions. They are a huge help
Thanks you gave straight answer to question without bunch of bypass bs.
Glad you liked it!
Thank you!!! This video helped me pin point my problem.
Thanks for this I had this problem so many times.
Always take a picture of wiring so you know what goes where 👍
Dude thank you so much, I have an f150 that’s been sitting for years and this did the trick! Thanks man.. now for the belt that I discovered is ripped up once it finally started lol.
Just want to say thank u for the tip! Saved me hundreds!
Thanks Joe! I thought I was going to have to replace my starter for $250, now I have a quick easy fix for $30.
Glad it helped!
This fixed my problem on my 1990 bronco! Thank you!
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Man you help me out I thought I was stranded my cylenoid screw was loose tighten it up and it started right up, good content
Many thanks go out to you for your help. Our 1988 Ford Ranger would not even click. I prayed for an answer and looked on TH-cam for answers. Battery was checked and was fine. It was the starter solenoid. Eighteen dollars later and it was fixed! what a relief. Cannot say enough thank yous!!!
Thank you so much! I appreciate you watching!
I just want to say thank you!!! I’ve been trying to figure this no start issue for three days and this was my issue. The screwdriver started it right up! Sucks I already replaced the starter but I guess on a 25 year old truck it can’t hurt to replace it anyway! Thank you!!!!!!!!
Glad it helped! THANK YOU for watching!
Just just worked for Me and my 93 T-Bird Project Rightnow ,thanks Bro😁👍😎
Thank you! A family member has a 94 Bronco, same engine (i believe). tried explaining to them where starting solenoid was and decided to look up a video to send them when I came across this amazing video that explains and shows everything so simply. Curious if you’re familiar with Volkswagen
Okay kids, I've got a used '89 Ford Bronco I'm slowly, part-by-part restoring. It has a beast of an engine for a short-body F150, namely a 5.8L V8. The sheer size of the engine causes problems with starting because all the stock (and aftermarket) external parts are designed for a smaller block. Solenoid, starter, battery; I call these the 'ignition trifecta'. They regularly burn out in that order. I always carry an electrical tester in the truck because of it. I also carry an extra solenoid (relay) with my tool kit in the back, because that is the most likely part to go out first.
In a smaller vehicle, say a 4 cylinder, a bad solenoid will make a clicking noise when you turn the key. Ratta-tatta-tat. Check the battery first, then try the screwdriver trick as above. With a big engine, however, the bad solenoid will only click on the first or maybe second try. After that it will be dead. So you have to listen for it. As mentioned above, this can be complicated by accessories, like alarms and such. As a rule, the more things attached to the relay, the more commonly it will blow out, so disconnect or reroute anything non-essential, like the alarm. Accessories can cause it to appear that your battery is dead when it is not (hence the electrical tester).
If the battery is good, but you have no power, it's probably the relay. If you have power and it won't crank, but you hear a clicking noise, it's definitely the relay. If power is good and relay is good but it won't turn over, it's likely either your starter or you fuel pump. A good fuel pump will make a whirring noise when you turn the key to 'run'. Bad pump, you will have power, no clicking, plenty of cranking but no whir and no start. A bad starter will simply produce no cranking, or cranking at a highly reduced rate, not enough to fire and turn it over. (To clarify, 'cranking' is what your engine does on starting under electrical power only, 'turnover' is when the fuel system takes over and becomes self-sustaining.)
So, generally:
No power=bad battery
Power+clicking-cranking=bad solenoid
Power-clicking+cranking-turnover=bad fuel pump
Power-clicking-cranking=bad starter
Sounds confusing, but it's really not...
Well said! Good luck with the truck!
@@GettinJunkDone Yeah, it's a real labor of love, with all the joy and pride and adoration and worry and angst and frustration that goes with being married to a classic car. I can't afford to keep fixing it all the time and I can't afford not to.
Curiously, I get offers for it regularly. Total strangers keep knocking on my door to ask about it. I just say "You don't know what you're asking. It's not for sale. If it was, it would have a For Sale sign on it. Now get off my lawn and go have a nice day." They always go away disappointed, because they were imagining that they were gonna come up on a truck with $60k potential for around $5k.
Tell you a story: I wouldn't sell her for twice that, that's my baby. Besides, it was a birthday gift from my mother, after my step-dad passed away. He named it 'Ze Tank'. She gave his 69 Ranchero to my nephew, figuring that maybe he and his own stepfather could do a little male-bonding while working on it.
I heard they couldn't do much with it in the end, probably because they didn't know the way my step-dad thought. He wasn't a mechanic, he was actually an aerospace engineer. He did so many modifications to both trucks, it's often hard to tell where the Ford factory ended and his own mind began.
Myself? I bond with my dead step-dad every time I look at it. What's that rattling? Ah shit, he didn't put the screw-clips back on the door panel (probably because he was gonna have a look at the door-lock actuator to figure out why it stops working in the heat of summer). I hear his voice when I look at a bolt or open the hood, "that's not 5/8, son, that's 9/16," or "alternator's fine, I think, just change the brushes and test the voltage regulator," and more recently "she sounds a bit rough on the throttle, check your fluids lately?" Yes, ghost step-dad...
And ah shit, there it is! I need to change the oil, clean and gap the plugs, adjust the idle and check the timing. Ze Tank's been idling real low lately and isn't torquing like she should. I've been wondering too much about the trans, intake and exhaust. "Start with the simple stuff and keep it simple," that's what he would say. I should probably see about reigning in the throttle cable a notch, too and then move on to the big stuff. Maybe me and Ze Tank should start our own TH-cam channel? Ya think?
On a side note: Standard brand solenoids are cheaper, but they come with a lifetime warranty. The folks at O'Reilly love to see me, because my battery and starter are under warranty, too, and guaranteed by my Bronco to give out before said warranties expire. Over the course of a year I walk out of there with at least $180 worth of free replacement parts, and I've become really good at knowing what the problem is by the sound of it...
Now, if I could only get the damn CB to work right...
JK, of course I know what's wrong with the CB: I can't afford a $60 antenna cable just to cuss at truck drivers and I can't find one at the swap meet, either...
Keeping in mind that I want to fill it with pro-stock parts, but can't afford to, as the after-market parts burn out so fast I can barely get them for free. Powermaster makes an alternator that supplies twice the amps of the F150-stock unit (140a vs. 70a) but costs twice as much. I also worry that upgrading the power unit to such could more quickly degrade other parts abruptly by maximizing their potential. I see tiny metal shavings in my oil pan.
Shit, I should probably take that off too, scrape it, scour it and replace the gasket! I am such a bad truck owner. No wonder the damn thing leaks!
Then there's the drive-belt, seat-belt cover, seat covers, power-steering pump, radios, suspension (shocks and struts required, check leaf-springs), fuel rail, wiring, I dare not turn on the A/C, wheel bearings are frying out all around, cracked windshield,, no headliner, upholstery is shot. The Master cylinder is going out, the brakes work good, but they hiss at me like a southern snake. Body. paint, carpet, Hah, all this truck needs is a decent lube job! We'll see about that on Friday. I'll do it myself.
Crawl in there and shove a cylinder of grease up her underside...
Worked on my 2001 Expedition, saved me from having to wait 3 hours
I started my truck every day for a week by doing this. 😆
I have a '93 Ford Explorer, would click but wouldn't start. Replaced the battery to no avail. Tried bypassing the solenoid as suggested in this video and it started right up. Thanks!
didnt work in my case , it did the same thing as if i turned the key , clicks and everything goes dead , all the dash lights , everything , its driving me nuts
Must be bad starter or battery/terminals
@@timgreen2426 replaced the terminals and cables , replaced the starter for the 3rd time and still does the same , then i replaced the solenoid in the drivers fender well and it cranked but the starter drags , no matter what i do it burns the starter out before i can go 50 feet , there is no power to the starter leads when the key is in the on position which means that rules out any issue with the switch or solenoid , it just wont dis-engage from the flywheel , after burning out 3 brand new starters this way i sold the truck , i don't have time to deal with this weird crap
@@TheRandomMechanic well do NOT buy a Chevy...the weird bs from a chevy makes a ford look like finger painting in comparison!!!! I got a Chevy & I rue the day!!
@@timgreen2426 bought a 96 toyota tacoma , real easy to work on
@@timgreen2426 the wife has a chevy so i completely understand where your coming from , what on earth were they thinking ? if you are going to get a chevy buy one from 1975 or older , if you are going to buy a ford do yourself a favor and DON"T
Thanks for the video just bought a bronco it was fine the next day nothing this video help me alot
Worked on my 97' f150
What if h do this but it just sparks and won’t crank won’t start at all and u have replaced this part and started it by bridge 3 times then back to just sparks
I'm left stranded 60 miles from home watching TH-cam videos ... now I need to find a screwdriver lol
You might be able to use your tire iron, but wrap the handle in something to hold with your hand.
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT and I can't find any solenoid thingy mounted on the side near the battery
If the solenoid clicks when you jump the terminals with a screwdriver or whatever its an internal problem.
My 86 F-250 does the same thing when it sits for extended times. I just sit there and keep clicking it eventually it will fire off. If i drive it more frequently the problem goes away.
So keep it in mind if it clicks dont be deterred keep trying!
I bridged the 2002 F159 firewall starter relay It sparks but no start ?
Jump it to test it with a screwdriver! Brilliant!
Works every time!
Our ford has two solenoids cranks but no start. Then sometimes is starts on the first bump
Dude, you are legendary. Thanks so much for the video!
Thanks for getting me getting me unstranded. Now to get a new relay.
Sometimes a no sound Dead Silence when trying to start the vehicle turns out to be a faulty neutral safety switch, that's happened to me on the few occasions.
Is this on a manual???? If it is a manual then where is it located.
Bypass that ho. Dangerous, and allows the truck to start in gear, but no more issues with it
Worked for me as well, had a mechanic scheduled for tomorrow, got to cancel and spend $20 to fix the problem
Thanks i was stranded . jumped it with a fork.😂👍
Hope you were gonna use that fork for lunch! Glad it worked!
LIVING IT pi
this worked for my 2.9l 5 speed manual 1990 ford ranger (no crank, no start issue)
man your the best you just showed something cool and very helpful
Hey thanks for the reminder on the bridge, I got no start or crank so I'm hoping I fix it!
Good luck!
Thank you young fella
YOOO MAN YOUR THE BEST so many other confusing videos so simple made my day 🤙
My 98 expedition turns a half way an stops, sounds like the motor is about to lock up. After a couple of tries it fire's up. Wondering if that could be the starter..
Hello i changed the solenoid and still no start from the key you think.its the starter
Thank you worked like a charm on my 97 ranger
So I'm assuming if I do this I got the Sparks and everything but no start. Would that indicate my starter is bad? All I get is a clunk from where the starter relay is when I try to start it.
you definitely saved me. thanks for the vid.
Saved my ass.
So glad it helped!
I have 2001 f250 no start from.key..battery is new good connections. Tried jumping relay on fender it sparks a little but nothing. If I go under the truck key on and use a wire to jump there it starts right up and runs. Dont see any blown fuses ir cut wire? Ideas
Same problem but mine not turning over
You did such a great job filming this. Thank
Worked like a charm
awesome, that was the problem, thank you so much!
but what if bypassing the starter relay DOESNT work? does that mean its not the relay?
Did you figure it out ? Happening to me right now
@@Jsheff24same
@@platinumjazz_figure it out?
@@bm-outdoors hell no 😭
@@platinumjazz_ I got the same problem and I haven’t either
What does it mean if you do this and it still doesn't start the truck as in my case ? my solenoid make a loud click every time I try the key
did you got it fix i jump the selenoid got big spark but no start i think is the starter what you think
@elsosa9556 it turned out to be my starter solenoid wire had corroded and come off completely. I got a copper lug from O'Reilly's and crimped it to the wire and also soldered it then used heat shrink tubing to seal the connection and put some dielectric grease on all connection points to the starter. It's now better than when it came from the factory.
Thanks!
I always suggest the easiest way is to take it Loose with the wires still on and then swap them one at a time then screw it back
My F-100 did nothing after driving fine, so I did the "Solanoid Bypass" and it fired right up. So I have a bad Solanoid and not a bad Neutral Safety Switch?
******** "Thank man". All the other videos on this specific part don't explain it straight forward & simply for ametures.. - ( I'm not a mechanic, I just know how to change out a few parts on cars/trucks just to save a few bucks. This was exactly what I needed to know about this parts function/purpose....
What would cause the starter relay to click really fast no start or crank even when bridging
FYI I have a 94 fleetwood southwind rv w ford f53 engine. Thanks again
What position do you have the key on do you have the key turned on halfway on or not
michael anderson key has to be turned on enough to power accessories (dash, radio etc) then bridge those two posts, truck will start. Make sure to be in park or neutral.
i get sparks and a loud click now from starter, but no turnover....not sure if starter or battery at that point
i have a 2002 Excursion 7.3 Diesel. Can not get it to start keep blowing fuse for starter motor. IF relay is bad, will it blow fuse?
I bridged the 2002 F159 firewall starter relay It sparks but no start ?
dril out the rivets on bk plate, its prolly nuthn more than carbon build up on contacts,
Saved me a headache and replaced the solenoid
My car started last night then this morning the cable got hot and melted the connecting clamp. I replaced the connecting clamp. And it got hot again. Solenoid?
Definitely sounds like a short somewhere.
When my problems began i would turn the key and hear one click, tried the ol screw driver trick and now im getting nothing at all. No dasg lights no headlights, ive replaced the starter and starter relay. My only thing left to assume is a bad ground. But i have no clue when it comes to electrical. Any advice?
Thanks. This helped me diagnose and replace.
And if it doesn't work is it still bad?
So the problem I'm having is that the small starter wire isn't getting power when i turn the key
Thanks it's really help me start this truck
Great! Glad it helped!
literally just saved my ass thank you very cool!
Would replacing this part also help with an issue in which the battery isn’t getting a charge from the alternator? After replacing both the battery/alternator and still no charge, I tracked the issue to this starter relay and the wiring running up to it from the back of the alternator? Thanks in advance!
What would it mean if when I do this it sparks but won’t start
Hello so i got a 1990 f150 xlt lariat and i changed the battery and changed the relay key wont turn over the truck from the switch any ideas would help me out.
Loud click when terminals on relay are connected via screwdriver means bad starter I assume?
Hey i hope u can help me i own a 89. f150 4.9l it keeps burning up the starter solenoid i will buy it brand new n week or two later it stop works do you have any idea what can cause that
Chck fuzes
If you put the screwdriver between the two large posts on the relay, and you get nothing... Not even the slightest spark... What is likely the problem? (When I turn the key, the solenoid clicks, but nothing from the starter. Then I bridge the posts on the solenoid, to bypass it completely, and I don't even get as much as a spark between the screwdriver and posts.)
if battery has full charge i would check grounds and for corrosion
my 97 f250 has good battery, when i turn the key it clicks and the power goes out until I pull a lead off the battery and put it back on. I think there is a bad connection or a incomplete circuit somwhere. Any suggestions.