Great pictures, great description. Not 1 in 100 videos is so clear. I don't know why people have such a hard time communicating, but I am glad you are one of the rare ones who knows how to do it. Thanks!
Awesome! Somebody finally took the time to explain the "why" not just the set-up & routing of these wires, but why it is wired this way. This is very helpful in diagnosing a no spark situation. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
most spark problems start with wrong mfd condenser value or it is defective if points are pitting look at condenser some just clean the points and ignor the condenser it is criticle important that the primary winding and the condenser match for instance i found my 53 dodge uses a 27 mfd for max spark it is a ball of of fire now had wrong value so a weak spark . this is refered to as series resonant circuit look this up it explains in detail (on line)
I am very impressed with your performance in this video. Direct and to the point that what people want when they are looking for help on youtube auto video's. Well explained and demonstrated. You show what the problem's could be and what to look for. It really help the viewer diagnosing their problems. I learned some things here thank you. Good Job
Thank you for explaining how the coil voltage stay the same in crank and run situations. You made it very simple and easy to understand the circuitry.. well done
i have hyundai azera 2009 & i found a resistor for my ignetion coils in the parts catalog. if it's became faulty what are symptoms? because the engine have random stuttering even i can hear the statics in the speakers because of it! by the way the spark plugs, coils, battery, alternator are new & the diagnostic tool don't show misfire
Thankyou. I've only been working on old cars for 60 years and this is the first time I have understood what a "Ballast resister" does! Got it.......at last. I can now die in peace with the question answered, "What's that thing?" on my car! ):
Thanks for sharing this video. I have to replace my ignition switch on my old Massey Ferguson tractor. This video was just what I needed. Thanks a lot! !!
Excellent work man. Just the information i needed. I'm jury rigging a 6 volt horn to work with a 12 volt system using a ballast resistor to compensate for the extra voltage/amps.
the ballast resistor works by, well, being a resister it resists the flow (amperage) of electrons moving in the circuit to all point downstream of it. it is the flow (or amperage) of electrons that do the work. voltage is just the pressure to move those electrons and is proportional to the flow. we use amperage to weld with. the electron flow causes heat and transfers metal with it . you can run a vehicle without a resister but the excessive flow will cause heat in the coil and points shortening their life dramatically. yes there will be a voltage drop after the resister but that is a side effect caused by the restriction to flow. E=IxR once you master that electrical is easy.
My friend i can tell you are a PRO the way you talk about this, hope i can learn from you something, i am in need to fix my car due to economical situation also mechanics charge an arm an a leg and some of them are not honest, i want to fix my car, i tell you a little bit of my situation, i have a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine it has 8 spark plugs, 6 of them spark very good, number 5 and 7 do not spark at all, number 5 is in one coil pack and number 7 is in the other coil pack, 8 just bought the coil packs they are knew, i feel like i have a bad electrical wire but i do not know where to start, can you teach me how to test the right way the pigtail/ connectors of a coil pack...thank in advance...
Fantastic!! My 62 Chrysler THANKS YOU!! Just make sure when engine shuts down like he said, dont assume it is the ballast, check wire harness wires could be broken or just not fully pushed into the fire wall or contacts need cleaning. This was my problem and it took a while to figure out. Follow the power like he said you will find low voltage or no power and that tells you where the problem lies. This really helped and I liked the screwdriver pointer Awsome!! My 62 chrysler thanks you !!
Hello friend one question, do you know how to test and what to expect on the wires connector/pigtail of a coil pack i have a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine, i have a problem just bought two ignition coils for my car they are good duralast brand but some how spark plug wires 5 and 7 are not sparking, I really do not know where to start testing and i do not know how to resolve the problem, i need help my friend please let me know if you can help me to figure out and where to start. Thanks in advance...
Dude! This was the best damned video I've ever seen explaining what happens at ignition and why there are ballast resistors. I am working on my Ford 640 and replaced the ignition switch was seemingly malfunctioning intermittently. When I pulled the hood to get at the tiny block terminal, I noticed that there was a resistor under the dash wired through the terminal block. This Tractor had a 12v conversion done to it long before I owned it, so I figured it was unnecessary and might cause a weak spark so I disconnected it (and installed a new coil requiring, supposedly, no external resistor) and rebuilt the distributor and put in a new condenser and points). When I tried to start it after all of that, it would not start at all. Since I know it had spark before I disconnected the resistor, I figured that ballast resistor must somehow be in the ignition circuit, so I reconnected it and it fired right up. QUESTION: The new coil says it does not need an external resistor, which I take to mean that it has an internal resistor. Does this make the coil more in the 6v range and is that okay for the points and spark? If not, how do I bypass the external resistor? I've seen a lot of comments referencing the 12v coils burning too hot for the points, but does this matter at all? By the way, it purrs like a kitten and all four cylinders have a good spark - I tested them all. Shocking how good this 1957 tractor runs despite the general abuse it has taken over the years. Anyway - thanks for the video. This was terrific help.
You are the MAN! this is the explanation i've been looking for. I am switching to an electronic ignition in my 66 mustang and have to bypass the resistor. Thank you.
THANKS. After I washed my engine of my 56 Tbird when I tried to start it it would die as soon as the starter shut off. A mechanic told me my carb was the problem. After many hours of diagnosing this and that and finding everything in working order, I finally noticed that a wire had come loose that was connected to my coil resistor and as soon as I hooked it up it started and ran just fine. Sorry I didn't see this video sooner it would have saved me all the time of trying to figure out what the problem was.
Please share your experience on review sites for the mechanic who misdiagnosed your problem. It's the only good way to help others avoid rip-offs. Thank you.
Thanks man! The tutorial helped me get my 73 mustang 351 CJ back on the road. Needed to add the resistor to the electronic IGto make it work right! 😅👍🏾🐎😎
I had a old civic with contact breaker points. The points burnt every two months or so. I got tired of sand paper ritual. Then, someone suggested the resistor and that solved the problem. I never damaged the coil in the 5 years I drove that thing. In another another car, I damaged a few ignition switches when I tried to not used the FORD solenoid. It appears that the current for the starter mounted solenoid was too much for the ignition switch. It looked like that FORD system uses the solenoid as a relay for the other solenoid. I never liked the direct connection of positive cable in old chevrolets. Great explanation!
I felt I was going nuts lol...Fords didnt use a ballast resistor but instead a resistor wire (same thing though). Still, the name freaked me out..did I miss something all these years? LOL. Nice vid, and diagram.
Hey I’m having a no start issue on my 1978 Porsche 924, I’ve replaced the faulty ignition coil (resistance measurements were off spec) however still no start, but I’ve noticed there’s 2 ballast resistors before the coil wich take the voltage down, I’ve measured them and the 1st one takes the voltage down from 12v to 8v and the 2nd one takes it down from that 8v to like 5.4V. This seems strange to me, as people say the coil needs 12v, do you think I should remove those resistors?
Good stuff man, I bought a 66 Fury and when I started going through it I noticed that they had electrical tape around a fuse. As it turned out they used that fuse as a bypass of the ballast resitor. Granted, they installed an MSD distributor with an MSD Blaster 3 coil, however, the coil does not need 12 volts going through it. I couldn't find the clue until I watched your video.
My '47 Ford, with original flathead V8, was converted to 12 volt system but still runs the original 6v ignition coil. 2 ballast resistors for this setup!
I have a 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger with a 318 motor and I have replaced several components (Wires, Cap, Pickup coil, ECU and the coil. I am only getting ONE SPARK coming out of the coil. I am stumped and can't start my car. I was running for three years and 9 days ago, I drove it home and then on Sunday, I couldn't start it any more. I have not been able to figure out why it's not working. Any clues?
That's the problem lm having with my 69 f-100. But nobody but you people know, or so it seems, how a balast resister works. Thank you so much. God bless you.
To throw a kink in this I'm trying to understand but I have 6 volt positive ground don't know if I need ceramic ballast resistor have to change things around its a 1948 8n tractor don't have some parts or make them. Please help maybe another video ?
Hello I see lot peopel use relays for ignition coils. Can some one describe me if I still need to use resistor or culd I use potenciometer insted? What ralay rating I need and how to calculate resistor for ignition coil. Me car is Opel tipical GM lay out but I use inductive trigger/4pin gm ignition module and e core type 4pin ignition coil. So Im not shure if me ignition coil wuld work with relay or not. Im not shure what runs it honestly alternator field wire or positive linear voltage regulator inside me dashboard Im not shure their wire harnest lay out is preaty much confuseing. Also I have cold start problems thats why I mentioned potenciometer I dont get enough voltage to the ignition coil and the 4pin gm ignition module do not have retarding option only wacum and spring load advance . So can some one help me please give advice how to solve this problem. Im doing the entire wire harnest be me self and I desire wire harnest that is heavely protected against static and arcing. I use 3 4 6 pin relays so wuld like to know where and what type of diode rating shuld I use. And was curiuse to know If I culd use heavy gage non stranded wire insted ? Originaly I wanted to use buss bars for ground and positive conection to avoid corrosion and futher problems with me car and make evry curcuet seperate so they do not interact with ich other. In the past I hade flat or over charged baterrys,back feading alternator,relays interactions,dual filament bulbs and xenon bulbs interacting with me wire harnest car refuse to shut off engine,self acelerates,gives electric shock,and lot other unusual effects who are anoying. So any one has ideas I wuld like to try out.
So what if my tractor is 6V? The resistor lowers the voltage to 4volts? I am converting to Pertroix Ignitor. With their Flamethrower coil. Should I dump the resistor and put maximum energy into the system? Comments please...
Thank you! I like the way you explained it. My car would not start after coming back from a 10 min drive. I got it to run for 30 seconds and would not start after . I may have flooded the engine maybe because no spark? I’m getting fuel ! Plugs looked wet and fouled. I gaped and installed all new spark plugs and still would not start . I noticed the + wire from the coil is not hooked up to the Ballast resistor.. I’m not sure if I snagged it off replacing the spark plugs. The male connectors on the Ballast resistors seems loose and it wiggles?? Is that normal?the voltage checked out 12.85 on one side and 7.89 volts on the coil side with the key on. Still won’t start! I bought a remote starter switch at amazon coming in 2 days. This way I can crank the engine from the engine bay. Should i check the coil next? How do you test a good or bad coil? Should I also check the points? The car ran fine prior To it not It is a stock 200 ci Ford straight 6 cylinder in a 1961 Ranchero. I subscribed to your channel 💪🏻🔥👍🏻
Thanks much brother you explained that very well I'm pretty ignorant about electric although I've been messing with old cars and tractors for years I have struggled with electric are you on Face book?
GREAT! I confess that about the only thing I know about automobiles is the ignition system, so I completely understood all you said. I use many of these parts for non-automotive applications--much cheaper! Especially the starter solenoid and the ignition coil for high-power flashtube triggers in large lasers. However, I would like to comment that you should have shown an actual ballast resister in the video so people would know what they actually look like. Thanks much!
Hello my friend, one question is it hard to install a ballast resistor on a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine, i do not know if this car has one already but it keeps blowing my ignition coils i feel like their are receiving too much current, but honestly i do not know where to start maybe you have time to explain me, so far i just found out that wires 5 and 7 has no spark and the car shaking too much, i am reading trying to find out why this two wires are not sparking. If you can, please help me where to start, i sincerely appreciated your time and thank you in advance...
Outstanding job. I worked as a technical educator for 5 years, then 29 years in automotive manufacturing, part of that time developing service training for distributor and fleet customer service technicians. I am not a mechanic though, but, I recognize good tutorials when I see them (an all too rare occurrence). There is a need (unanswered demand) for no-nonsense training manuals and audiovisuals for the vintage car owner/enthusiast (non-mechanics, myself included), on early Ford, 6 volt generator, positive ground electrical systems. Actually, vintage car professional (?) mechanics could use it as well. Specifically the battery/generator/voltage regulator (control box as it was called in certain publications)/starter/coil and related wiring, resistors, etc.. You wouldn’t get rich but you might break even and just think of the fun you’d have!
Thanks so much! Fantastic explanations. My buddy is a mechanic and shared this with me for use with my boat: A 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 inboard with a Ford Winchester Pleasure Craft Marine 351 motor. I’ve been having issues with my motor starting (even with the ignition switch and key turned off) whenever I connect my battery cables. Seems like my Solenoid has maybe gone bad, but gosh your breakdown of the entire ignition chain is so informative I feel much more confident in tracking down the faulty part or cable (like you said, could be something crimped or chewed on by a mouse etc. 😅) Many thanks my friend. You are an amazing resource of information and knowledge. Will be sure to share your content with friends. 😁👍
I have a question you do not show the wiring from the coil to the distributor I wired my tractor as you have shown and it only works if the distributor point are closed, If the engine stops with the points open the start curcit does not work. Could you please explain how this works. I put in a start relay to provide the full start voltage to the coil Thanks Andy
I have a 1965 Fleetwood Cadillac and the wire running from the ignition to the coil was burned to crisp. I tried to run a wire straight from the ignition to the coil and I still couldn’t get it started. Is the wire running from the ignition to the coil a resistance wire and is that the reason why it wouldn’t start?? Also I’ll hook a fresh battery from another car and try to start it on the caddy and the battery would be dead after two tries. What’s going on??? If the wire is a resistance wire can I run it without it and if so how? Please help!
Does there need to be a diode in the wire coming off of the starter seleniod to the ballast resistor to keep from backfeeding the starter selenoid when in normal engine running operation?
It's amazing how a well drawn diagram and good communication skills can easily trump CGI animations so often.
By far the best explanation I've ever seen on this topic. Well done, sir.
Great pictures, great description. Not 1 in 100 videos is so clear. I don't know why people have such a hard time communicating, but I am glad you are one of the rare ones who knows how to do it. Thanks!
Awesome! Somebody finally took the time to explain the "why" not just the set-up & routing of these wires, but why it is wired this way. This is very helpful in diagnosing a no spark situation. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
most spark problems start with wrong mfd condenser value or it is defective if points are pitting look at condenser some just clean the points and ignor the condenser it is criticle important that the primary winding and the condenser match for instance i found my 53 dodge uses a 27 mfd for max spark it is a ball of of fire now had wrong value so a weak spark . this is refered to as series resonant circuit look this up it explains in detail (on line)
@@frankdavidson9675 Thanks for the extra info.
Very well explained, simple but concise, it's about time someone did it properly, it's helped me, thank you
I am very impressed with your performance in this video. Direct and to the point that what people want when they are looking for help on youtube auto video's. Well explained and demonstrated. You show what the problem's could be and what to look for. It really help the viewer diagnosing their problems. I learned some things here thank you. Good Job
Best part is the absence of an annoying silly background music. Thank you..
And the actual explanation. Thank you.
Great video. I've worked on Mopars all my life and knew that a ballast resistor was critical, but never really understood why. Thanks!
These failed alot back then and some people used to have a spare ballast resistor in their car!
Thank you for explaining how the coil voltage stay the same in crank and run situations. You made it very simple and easy to understand the circuitry.. well done
What a fantastic video! Clear explanation, useful diagram, concise without any unnecessary nonsense. Thank you for posting it.
i have hyundai azera 2009 & i found a resistor for my ignetion coils in the parts catalog. if it's became faulty what are symptoms? because the engine have random stuttering even i can hear the statics in the speakers because of it! by the way the spark plugs, coils, battery, alternator are new & the diagnostic tool don't show misfire
Thankyou. I've only been working on old cars for 60 years and this is the first time I have understood what a "Ballast resister" does! Got it.......at last. I can now die in peace with the question answered, "What's that thing?" on my car! ):
Good stuff man! Thank you very much, a great help.
Thanks for sharing this video. I have to replace my ignition switch on my old Massey Ferguson tractor. This video was just what I needed. Thanks a lot! !!
Spent a day looking at a bunch of fools. Thank u a so much I kept burning up my coil
Thank you.... simple and direct.... thank you
Excellent work man. Just the information i needed. I'm jury rigging a 6 volt horn to work with a 12 volt system using a ballast resistor to compensate for the extra voltage/amps.
the ballast resistor works by, well, being a resister it resists the flow (amperage) of electrons moving in the circuit to all point downstream of it. it is the flow (or amperage) of electrons that do the work. voltage is just the pressure to move those electrons and is proportional to the flow. we use amperage to weld with. the electron flow causes heat and transfers metal with it . you can run a vehicle without a resister but the excessive flow will cause heat in the coil and points shortening their life dramatically. yes there will be a voltage drop after the resister but that is a side effect caused by the restriction to flow. E=IxR once you master that electrical is easy.
My friend i can tell you are a PRO the way you talk about this, hope i can learn from you something, i am in need to fix my car due to economical situation also mechanics charge an arm an a leg and some of them are not honest, i want to fix my car, i tell you a little bit of my situation, i have a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine it has 8 spark plugs, 6 of them spark very good, number 5 and 7 do not spark at all, number 5 is in one coil pack and number 7 is in the other coil pack, 8 just bought the coil packs they are knew, i feel like i have a bad electrical wire but i do not know where to start, can you teach me how to test the right way the pigtail/ connectors of a coil pack...thank in advance...
Fantastic!! My 62 Chrysler THANKS YOU!!
Just make sure when engine shuts down like he said, dont assume it is the ballast, check wire harness wires could be broken or just not fully pushed into the fire wall or contacts need cleaning. This was my problem and it took a while to figure out. Follow the power like he said you will find low voltage or no power and that tells you where the problem lies. This really helped and I liked the screwdriver pointer Awsome!! My 62 chrysler thanks you !!
Hello friend one question, do you know how to test and what to expect on the wires connector/pigtail of a coil pack i have a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine, i have a problem just bought two ignition coils for my car they are good duralast brand but some how spark plug wires 5 and 7 are not sparking, I really do not know where to start testing and i do not know how to resolve the problem, i need help my friend please let me know if you can help me to figure out and where to start. Thanks in advance...
Great illustration! Great concise explanation! Nice, straight and fundamental information!
Awesome! Very well explained. Finally I understood the "I" of the started solenoid.
all comes flooding back. super simple, perfect explanation. awesome mate. thankyou
Dude! This was the best damned video I've ever seen explaining what happens at ignition and why there are ballast resistors. I am working on my Ford 640 and replaced the ignition switch was seemingly malfunctioning intermittently. When I pulled the hood to get at the tiny block terminal, I noticed that there was a resistor under the dash wired through the terminal block. This Tractor had a 12v conversion done to it long before I owned it, so I figured it was unnecessary and might cause a weak spark so I disconnected it (and installed a new coil requiring, supposedly, no external resistor) and rebuilt the distributor and put in a new condenser and points). When I tried to start it after all of that, it would not start at all. Since I know it had spark before I disconnected the resistor, I figured that ballast resistor must somehow be in the ignition circuit, so I reconnected it and it fired right up.
QUESTION: The new coil says it does not need an external resistor, which I take to mean that it has an internal resistor. Does this make the coil more in the 6v range and is that okay for the points and spark? If not, how do I bypass the external resistor? I've seen a lot of comments referencing the 12v coils burning too hot for the points, but does this matter at all?
By the way, it purrs like a kitten and all four cylinders have a good spark - I tested them all. Shocking how good this 1957 tractor runs despite the general abuse it has taken over the years. Anyway - thanks for the video. This was terrific help.
More of this guy, please. Really excellent video.
Great video. You've covered all sides of the ballast resistor what its for and when its bypassed
Thankyou . great video very well explained
Thank you so much. I've been trying to find this answer for awhile.
Excellent job explaining this. Thank you for taking the time to share this information.
Thanks very much for taking the time to explain mate 👍 much appreciated from New Zealand
You are the MAN! this is the explanation i've been looking for. I am switching to an electronic ignition in my 66 mustang and have to bypass the resistor. Thank you.
What do you have to do to bypass the resistor what takes it place?
THANKS. After I washed my engine of my 56 Tbird when I tried to start it it would die as soon as the starter shut off. A mechanic told me my carb was the problem. After many hours of diagnosing this and that and finding everything in working order, I finally noticed that a wire had come loose that was connected to my coil resistor and as soon as I hooked it up it started and ran just fine. Sorry I didn't see this video sooner it would have saved me all the time of trying to figure out what the problem was.
Please share your experience on review sites for the mechanic who misdiagnosed your problem. It's the only good way to help others avoid rip-offs. Thank you.
Perfect, answered all my questions... How to test, typically ohm reading, potential problems. Thanks for the video!
Awesome video- thankyou
Awesome job, thank you for the simple yet informative explanation.
Thanks man! The tutorial helped me get my 73 mustang 351 CJ back on the road. Needed to add the resistor to the electronic IGto make it work right! 😅👍🏾🐎😎
I had a old civic with contact breaker points. The points burnt every two months or so. I got tired of sand paper ritual. Then, someone suggested the resistor and that solved the problem. I never damaged the coil in the 5 years I drove that thing.
In another another car, I damaged a few ignition switches when I tried to not used the FORD solenoid. It appears that the current for the starter mounted solenoid was too much for the ignition switch. It looked like that FORD system uses the solenoid as a relay for the other solenoid. I never liked the direct connection of positive cable in old chevrolets.
Great explanation!
Like everyone else has said, this is really well explained, thanks!
Thank you....this helped me so much
Yes, very good video, thanks for taking the time to make it !
Great video🤙
Excellent, easy to understand. Thank you!!!!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for this explanation. You have saved me quite a bit of time diagnosing an old Bronco.
The best explanation I've ever seen on resistors. Thank You
Excellent video...perfectly explained and great diagram...well done!
Great Explanation! Thank you. It fixed my tractor.
I felt I was going nuts lol...Fords didnt use a ballast resistor but instead a resistor wire (same thing though). Still, the name freaked me out..did I miss something all these years? LOL. Nice vid, and diagram.
Great job Sir!!
Thank you so much for this. I have an old Jeep and this info. is exactly what I was looking for, great explanations too.
I got 12 volts on both sides of the resistor with the ignition in the on position and 0 ohms when tested. Is this a bad resistor?
Excellent !
Thanks for clairifying this!
Hey I’m having a no start issue on my 1978 Porsche 924, I’ve replaced the faulty ignition coil (resistance measurements were off spec) however still no start, but I’ve noticed there’s 2 ballast resistors before the coil wich take the voltage down, I’ve measured them and the 1st one takes the voltage down from 12v to 8v and the 2nd one takes it down from that 8v to like 5.4V. This seems strange to me, as people say the coil needs 12v, do you think I should remove those resistors?
This guy is one of the few people that actually explains the what a ballast resistor really does! Great video!
Nice and simply exclaimed 👍😀
excellent video!
Amazing video, very well explained thank you’
Very helpful
Great video.
Good stuff man, I bought a 66 Fury and when I started going through it I noticed that they had electrical tape around a fuse. As it turned out they used that fuse as a bypass of the ballast resitor. Granted, they installed an MSD distributor with an MSD Blaster 3 coil, however, the coil does not need 12 volts going through it. I couldn't find the clue until I watched your video.
Wow. Thank you. I am a newbie and really really appreciate this as I am troubleshooting an old GMC truck.
A very simple and clear description on the function of a Ballast
Resister
Thank You! A great explanation that totally makes sense! Love it! Peace from New Zealand :)
Thank you soooooo much!!!
My '47 Ford, with original flathead V8, was converted to 12 volt system but still runs the original 6v ignition coil. 2 ballast resistors for this setup!
I have a 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger with a 318 motor and I have replaced several components (Wires, Cap, Pickup coil, ECU and the coil. I am only getting ONE SPARK coming out of the coil. I am stumped and can't start my car. I was running for three years and 9 days ago, I drove it home and then on Sunday, I couldn't start it any more. I have not been able to figure out why it's not working. Any clues?
I’m going to sound like a broken record here on this comment section , but great explanation. Would like to see more of this type of teaching video.
That's the problem lm having with my 69 f-100. But nobody but you people know, or so it seems, how a balast resister works. Thank you so much. God bless you.
To throw a kink in this I'm trying to understand but I have 6 volt positive ground don't know if I need ceramic ballast resistor have to change things around its a 1948 8n tractor don't have some parts or make them. Please help maybe another video ?
Hello I see lot peopel use relays for ignition coils.
Can some one describe me if I still need to use resistor or culd I use potenciometer insted?
What ralay rating I need and how to calculate resistor for ignition coil.
Me car is Opel tipical GM lay out but I use inductive trigger/4pin gm ignition module and e core type 4pin ignition coil.
So Im not shure if me ignition coil wuld work with relay or not.
Im not shure what runs it honestly alternator field wire or positive linear voltage regulator inside me dashboard Im not shure their wire harnest lay out is preaty much confuseing.
Also I have cold start problems thats why I mentioned potenciometer I dont get enough voltage to the ignition coil and the 4pin gm ignition module do not have retarding option only wacum and spring load advance .
So can some one help me please give advice how to solve this problem.
Im doing the entire wire harnest be me self and I desire wire harnest that is heavely protected against static and arcing.
I use 3 4 6 pin relays so wuld like to know where and what type of diode rating shuld I use.
And was curiuse to know If I culd use heavy gage non stranded wire insted ?
Originaly I wanted to use buss bars for ground and positive conection to avoid corrosion and futher problems with me car and make evry curcuet seperate so they do not interact with ich other.
In the past I hade flat or over charged baterrys,back feading alternator,relays interactions,dual filament bulbs and xenon bulbs interacting with me wire harnest car refuse to shut off engine,self acelerates,gives electric shock,and lot other unusual effects who are anoying.
So any one has ideas I wuld like to try out.
nice!
So what if my tractor is 6V? The resistor lowers the voltage to 4volts?
I am converting to Pertroix Ignitor. With their Flamethrower coil.
Should I dump the resistor and put maximum energy into the system?
Comments please...
I have a question. If you feed the coil with 12 V continuously (DC), how long can the current flow without damaging the coil's primary?
Awesome!
Thank you! I like the way you explained it.
My car would not start after coming back from a 10 min drive. I got it to run for 30 seconds and would not start after . I may have flooded the engine maybe because no spark? I’m getting fuel ! Plugs looked wet and fouled. I gaped and installed all new spark plugs and still would not start . I noticed the + wire from the coil is not hooked up to the Ballast resistor.. I’m not sure if I snagged it off replacing the spark plugs. The male connectors on the Ballast resistors seems loose and it wiggles?? Is that normal?the voltage checked out 12.85 on one side and 7.89 volts on the coil side with the key on.
Still won’t start! I bought a remote starter switch at amazon coming in 2 days. This way I can crank the engine from the engine bay. Should i check the coil next? How do you test a good or bad coil? Should I also check the points?
The car ran fine prior To it not
It is a stock 200 ci Ford straight 6 cylinder in a 1961 Ranchero. I subscribed to your channel 💪🏻🔥👍🏻
brilliant
Hey man....Thanks for the really cool video. I like the way you explain things. Your video really set me straight on the ignition system. Thanks....
Thanks much brother you explained that very well I'm pretty ignorant about electric although I've been messing with old cars and tractors for years I have struggled with electric are you on Face book?
Great info !!!! I have car with bad start. My garage said pull plus from battery to coil directly to test. I did this but luckily didn’t fry the coil.
GREAT! I confess that about the only thing I know about automobiles is the ignition system, so I completely understood all you said. I use many of these parts for non-automotive applications--much cheaper! Especially the starter solenoid and the ignition coil for high-power flashtube triggers in large lasers. However, I would like to comment that you should have shown an actual ballast resister in the video so people would know what they actually look like.
Thanks much!
Hello my friend, one question is it hard to install a ballast resistor on a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine, i do not know if this car has one already but it keeps blowing my ignition coils i feel like their are receiving too much current, but honestly i do not know where to start maybe you have time to explain me, so far i just found out that wires 5 and 7 has no spark and the car shaking too much, i am reading trying to find out why this two wires are not sparking. If you can, please help me where to start, i sincerely appreciated your time and thank you in advance...
Does the ballast resistor need grounding from the mounting screw?
Or does it need any grounding at all?
Outstanding job. I worked as a technical educator for 5 years, then 29 years in automotive manufacturing, part of that time developing service training for distributor and fleet customer service technicians. I am not a mechanic though, but, I recognize good tutorials when I see them (an all too rare occurrence). There is a need (unanswered demand) for no-nonsense training manuals and audiovisuals for the vintage car owner/enthusiast (non-mechanics, myself included), on early Ford, 6 volt generator, positive ground electrical systems. Actually, vintage car professional (?) mechanics could use it as well. Specifically the battery/generator/voltage regulator (control box as it was called in certain publications)/starter/coil and related wiring, resistors, etc..
You wouldn’t get rich but you might break even and just think of the fun you’d have!
Thanks so much!
Fantastic explanations. My buddy is a mechanic and shared this with me for use with my boat: A 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 inboard with a Ford Winchester Pleasure Craft Marine 351 motor.
I’ve been having issues with my motor starting (even with the ignition switch and key turned off) whenever I connect my battery cables. Seems like my Solenoid has maybe gone bad, but gosh your breakdown of the entire ignition chain is so informative I feel much more confident in tracking down the faulty part or cable (like you said, could be something crimped or chewed on by a mouse etc. 😅)
Many thanks my friend. You are an amazing resource of information and knowledge. Will be sure to share your content with friends. 😁👍
I have a question you do not show the wiring from the coil to the distributor I wired my tractor as you have shown and it only works if the distributor point are closed, If the engine stops with the points open the start curcit does not work. Could you please explain how this works. I put in a start relay to provide the full start voltage to the coil
Thanks Andy
I have a 1965 Fleetwood Cadillac and the wire running from the ignition to the coil was burned to crisp. I tried to run a wire straight from the ignition to the coil and I still couldn’t get it started. Is the wire running from the ignition to the coil a resistance wire and is that the reason why it wouldn’t start?? Also I’ll hook a fresh battery from another car and try to start it on the caddy and the battery would be dead after two tries. What’s going on??? If the wire is a resistance wire can I run it without it and if so how? Please help!
Excellent video. Thank you!
One comment I would have to make is that on my truck the ballast resistor with key on engine off it supplies 5v not 8-9.
Great tutorial. Pictures are worth a 1000 words.
Great informative video great teacher without all that annoying music.
Excellent!! Exactly what I needed. Thanks for putting this together!
My Plymouth has over 12 volt's on both sides of the coil?
a ballast resistor reduces voltage,... is there a way to test a resistor to see if its good.
Thank you! Best explanation so far.
Great tutorial, helped understand the reason I have a ballast resistor on my TR7 which now runs a 12 volt coil in place of the original 6 volt coil.
Be careful on coil selection some coils have a built in resistor. No need for external resistor
Thanks! Very simple!
May 3rd-2021, that was pretty damn good, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us
الشخص الوحيد الذي شرح وظيفة المقاومة .👍
Does there need to be a diode in the wire coming off of the starter seleniod to the ballast resistor to keep from backfeeding the starter selenoid when in normal engine running operation?
Just saw your video ,thank you for helping a 76 year old vet
This os the best explanation I have seen
Never 5hought a ballast resistor resistor in general lower current but not voptage