I used this 15 yrs ago on a Chevy Corvette, I didn't remember the exact steps and this video is perfect for helping me. I'm going to use it on a Universal Diesel 44 HP on a sailboat. Thank you!
Getting ready to do this on an 82 corvette. Thanks for the video. After reading through the comments it seems there’s about 25 way to spell solenoid wrong lol good luck y’all
Klowny1969, Great video! Real easy to follow. The best part is that I won't have to crawl under my truck to see if there is a loose connection to the solenoid. I know there is one cable from the FORD solenoid that still has to be run to the starter, but I don't think I have ever seen these nuts and lock washers come loose. I have seen smaller wire to "S" or "I" terminal crack and or loosen because everyone is afraid to tighten them too much. I already rewired my Blazer with this setup. I added a Anderson Powepole connector (use one side only) on the cable that goes to the starter from the FORD solenoid. I put it nearer to the new solenoid. I hook it up nice and tight to the starter while the starter is out of the car, so I can really get it snug. The added benefit is that I don't have to work so hard to get the damned wire connected to the starter in a cramped and confined space. I just have to mount the support brace and the two mounting screws. This setup has solved a lot of issues, where I used to curse having to troubleshoot GM starter no-start situations in the past. Easy and highly recommended. Big thank you.
Thanks for the video! My solenoid on my sbc went out today. Got a fresh rebuilt engine and had extra starts on tuning and such. But in theory, isn't the one on the starter going to do the same thing as mine did fail because of heat or overstarting? Just curious what you think of that? Like is the failure rate less addingn a external solenoid?
I have a 65 El Camino with a 350 Chevy engine I have the problem of starting when it's hot so I bought an external 1990 Ford F150 solenoid very similar to the one that you show in video. Do you remove the red battery cable to it ? It seems like the solenoid that is on the starter is also running the external solenoid????
Thanks for the video man. I have a question. I have a total of 4 wires. I see the alternator and battery positive on the big lug, I have a smaller black wire I believe is the “S” wire, then I have another small black wire labeled “R”. I heard you mention the first two lugs but I did not hear you mention the “R” lug. My question is where does that wire land at on the new solenoid and what does it do and stand for? Thank you!
Hi, thank you for your video, everything make sense apart from when you mention the jumper piece. You say it needs to be fitted somewhere somehow on the solanoid....could clarify that point for me...I am not sure what to do with that jumper piece...
Hi thanks for posting your videos, I'm looking to put a permanent start button in my 1987 ford f150, the solenoid switch is mounted on the fender. I'm having issues with ignition key where I have to turn past the normal to start. I'm looking to turn key toward start position and start with button. Then to shut it turn the key off. Can you tell me if I go with one wire off new button. To positive on battery and the other wire off button to the small S terminal on solenoid block, and should I put a fuse somewhere in there. Thanks for your help
AMC used that same solenoid. My '69 AMX has one just like that. The I terminal is for the ballast resistor bypass. During cranking, the coil gets a full 12 volts from the I terminal.
I switched wiring sets for whole switches and sensors, it was on a automatic car but mine is manual. I’m running into more problems than I thought, should I just switch back before I even try to finish
Where do you buy that little metal jumper? I used to use a piece of tin can lid cut with tin snips to make mine from scratch but the one you got looks a lot nicer than what I've always used.
I'm looking into best way to do this I hear some people hook this up improperly and it ghosts solenoid stays on because they have there s terminal linked to the solenoid terminal on the starter, and holds power even after let off cranking. Your way seams way better. But I have a question how dose your starter know when to crank will it only get power when you turn the key all the way? I must be thinking wrong because I thought that was solenoid pops out a when the key is turned acc (not all the way) just before you turn to crank. Or is it solenoid pops out when you start cranking?
I got a question for you I have a 1993 forest floor no crank no start change the battery cables Illinois on it and nothing I have power to my lights And everything but won't start what do you suggest
Klowny - Thanks for taking the time to post this video. I installed this kit today on a C6 Corvette. Worked for the first two starts, then the starter stayed on (engaged and cranking) for a few extra seconds on 3rd start. Then on the 4th start, it stayed on and wouldn't tun off until I disconnected the battery. Car was not hot (only run for a few seconds between these starts), battery had been on a charger all night, solenoid was new (same kit as you show in the video) and I wired the way you have here (same as instructions in kit). Any thoughts on what caused the starter to stay on? Thanks, man.
+Charles Steenveld hey thanks for watching. .check to see if the solenoid is sticking..i have a video on how to test these on my channel..a simple test light can be used
+klowny1969 Thanks again - turns out the solenoid was bad - pretty common for those solenoids. I upgraded to a HD one from a Super Duty Ford truck and its good now. Running the same remote set up, just a more robust solenoid.
can't u buy a solenoid for the starter motor it's self or do they only come together with a starter motor, because my solenoid is starting to play up I have a xf 1988 Ford falcon what is cheaper the original solenoid or this type of one u have here cheers.
Great video. I have a question about a 3 post solenoid. I have one with a bump start on it. What do I do with the R terminal wire. I think it is suppose to get 12v from original 4 post solenoid?
Is there a starter solenoid similar to this one, but instead of an 'S' and 'I' terminal, has a 'S' and 'G' terminal, where the 'G' can go to a switched ground like for a Chrysler style neutral safety switch instead of grounding through the mounting bracket?
Does the cold post only get power when the keys is engaged ? Once the key flips back to the run position the power stops and stops the starter from spinning correct ? Is there a post I can use on this to give power to my amp only when the key is in the on position ?
Where is the diode for the collapsing power reversal after the coil de-energizes? Or do you not care about the switch arching and blowing out eventually?
i have a 94 chevy with a Lt1! installed a new starter! it was good for 3 months! now i have to tap it to start! do you think it's the heat from the header that's killing it?
I am trying to add one of these to a Cleveland 351 with a starter that only has one big post. should I just go from the battery to the solenoid, then solenoid to the battery?
i watch the video again and you said why is jumped LOL!!! ok... so the S terminal in the starter goes to the fat and the S in the selenoid... the S terminal in the selenoid will have the starter and key wire! got it!!! i have to re wire my starter :P
so i can put that on a chevy to bypass my solenoid ???headers are like a half inch n gets super hot will it work if my solenoid is bad its a newish starter but when hot wont start unless i bump it with screwdriver😒
that depends on if u want to be nhra legal..in other words..if u want to be able to shut the car off when its running..then u can check out my video on how to wire a relocated battery..if not. then just put a disconnect switch between the positive terminal on the battery and the feed cable to the alt/car..thanks for watching
Helped a lot, thanks. One question, I have a mystery wire. Its 1979 mustang cobra v8, and I have a wire that i dont know where it goes. The car has an aftermarket security system in it, would it be possible that a wire frome that would go to the solenoid? It also has an engine kill switch hidden that prevents spark, but i tested that and I dont think the wire is from that because it still worked when the wire wasnt connected. Any clues?
It has to go on one of the small ones because it wouldnt fit on the large one. Im 99% sure its for the alarm/security system after attempting to follow the wire through the firewall
Hey Nice video!I have a question for you. I have this same solenoid in my truck. I have it wired the way you state as well. My truck wont crank. However if I jumper the battery to that s post it cranks. Without jumpering I there is no cranking. Would this suggest that the solenoid is bad or the ignition switch. I would appreciate any advice you can give me and thank you in advance for your time. Will
Got a quick question and problem. I hooked it up like you explained and it didn't start by turning the key so I jumped the S and the live side with the switch & wires and it started when I flipped the switch off it kept turning over. I unhooked the battery and took the power wire I ran from the old solenoid to the live side of the solenoid. after that I connected the switch to the live side and on the S , connected the battery and hit the switch and it started and I flipped the switch back off.. It kept running I took it for a drive and my interior lights stayed on the whole time. I have a 2005 Lincoln navigator. I had a no crank no start issue and advanced track error also a odo data error. I really need help.. Also when I was driving my speedometer wasn't working
I just got mine today and the instructions say to put the battery and everything on the opposite side than what you are showing. Do they work either way?
I know this is an older video, but I'm hoping Klowny or anyone can help. My Camaro has a remote solenoid on the inner fender. However, the positive cable from the battery goes to the other side (right side) (closest to the I terminal) and the other cable from the solenoid to the starter is on the left side (closest to the S) does this make a difference? It starts up, but want to ensure it's wired correctly. Thank you.
I installed a new solenoid in my 68 F250 truck and now when I go to hook up the battery cables it starts to crank I don’t understand what happened I know I reinstalled everything exactly the same help please
+ss396rat a circuit breaker is like a fuse..not sure why you would want to put a circuit breaker instead of a solenoid? A solenoid will help with heat soak..a breaker wont
I got mine all installed but all I had was some 10 ga. wire to run from the remote solenoid to the starter. It isn't sending enough power down to the starter to turn over the engine. What gauge wire do you recommend? I tested the solenoid without the wire from the solenoid down to the starter and I get over 12 volts but with the 10 gauge wire down to the starter I only get about 8 volts.
thanks my friend, but i have to ask... why do you have to jump the S terminal in the starter with the fat bolt?? if the S terminal goes to the S terminal in the starter Selenoid?
im having problems with the jeep not cranking...i put a new starter solenoid just like the video so i have a one wire alternator that goes straight to the battery. so how can i do that setup? or should i just connect it to left side of the solenoid and ignition to the "s" and the right side to starter. am i missing something else or what?
I'm having that issue where my car won't start when I drive it for a while and my battery light is on I replaced the battery and had the alternator checked all working good but car won't start after I ride around the block a few times I have the same starter you've shown in the video any suggestions
Alright so I'm redoing the old brittle wiring on my 74 Dart and I'm still fairly new to the engine electronics/ignition systems so bear with me here. I've heard you refer to the solenoid as a relay a couple of times. Is a solenoid the same thing as a relay? Would that be why my starter doesn't have a solenoid on it but a 10gauge wire running to a relay mounted on the inner fender well instead? The motor is burnt up so If I replaced the starter with one that has a solenoid mounted on it like that really chromy looking starter in your video could I toss the old relay and just run the ignition switch wire strait off the S terminal on the solenoid. The previous owners left the car's wiring a complete CF so i'm trying to reduce the amount of wires I have running around and remote mounted relays way out in left field acting as eye soars and what not. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to organization and stuff lol.
Will this work on a high torque mini-starter with a permanent magnet? I have seen some diagrams saying to not to use a jumper but rather wire the "I" terminal on the solenoid to the "S" terminal on the starter?
I cant get a good picture of the starter you are talking about..however , all starters are essentially the same..if u have headers close to it, it would be a good idea for a remote mount solenoid..i also have a heat shield from jegs that u wrap around my starter for extra heat protection ..
Sounds logical except what is the purpose of this? Adding a second solenoid to your starter so you can mount that 2nd solenoid to the firewall? Maybe for troubleshooting purposes.??
I don't understand, if I am still depending on the operation of the solenoid attached to the starter to operate the bendix gear, what is the remote solenoid accomplishing, seems redundant?
my car inside light won't turn on I thought it was the starter relay ..I have one just like the one In your video how can I fix my issue I replace the ignition switch n nothing ...
Hey klowney, Thanks for the vid! You saved me some time of recalling my original wiring. A few questions: 1. when you say jump wire from original-starter-solenoid to the S terminal, I'm obviously wiring the "old" solenoid's hot (+) to the S terminal... then THAT S terminal wire also connects to the s-terminal-post on the new remote solenoid, correct?? 2. Also, how can I add/wire a push button start button to the new remote solenoid to have the push-button-start function in my old Chevy RV? Thanks in advance for answering all my questions man! DC
Why does my solenoid keeps getting stuck or something? It turns on fine for a couple of weeks and all of a sudden it won't crank. I bang on it a few times and it works again. I already replaced it and it's doing the same thing. Could you explain what's going on. Thanks
Ok so.... the battery and the alternator goes to the left side stud of the starter SELENOID, the right side stud of the starter SELENOID goes to the fat stud in the STARTER, the S terminal in the STARTER goes to the left side small stud in the starter SELENOID "s" terminal, and in that same "s" terminal of the starter SELENOID goes the wire to KEY right??? and i have to jump the S terminal in the STARTER with the fat stud in the starter too right???
People....I have read so many comments on here, that think by adding this, it will correct a failing solenoid on your current starter....IT WILL NOT.....you still need a good working solenoid on your current starter, regardless whether you add this remote solenoid or not.....
we have a 79 ford f250 have replaced the starter and solenoid relay on fender wall now it starts with the key on in acc position but the starter continues to spin untill we disconect the battery whats up with that any help would be much appreciated, stuck in arizona.wayne and karen.
Check at the solenoid to see if the small wire continues to have power..if it does then u have to trace that side of the circuit..if it doesnt then its the solenoid sticking
klowny1969.. I'd like to use this Ford Solenoid as a switch to protect my house battery bank in an RV application. Do you see any problems with always having the 'key' post always energized to allow flow from my house battery bank to my DC appliances, and when I want to turn it off, I'll hit a switch I'll put on the 'key' wire? The reason why this solenoid could work well is because of how many amps I can run through it.. Thanks for the great video!
I did this to my 88 GTA tpi And it didn't fix my hot start issue Do you need a new starter that doesn't have the solinoid in it I'm using my factory starter And I put on a dei versa wrap on my starter and it fixed my hot start problem So I did all of this for nothing Ty
If you bypass the starter solenoid and use the good old ford solenoid hook it the way you said but the wire running to the starter should just hook to the thick post going straight in the starter because you're bypassing the starter solenoid because I guess because it was bad, so why still run through the bad starter noid. Just saying,
Ok...you have a heat soak issue with your GM starter. Solenoid is on the starter motor housing. If you wire the Ford remote solenoid the way he said, including the jumper, you effectively bypass the original solenoid. Look at the wiring. It’ll make sense to you. It’s a common hot rod method.
Dude, please try to maybe do your comments a few times before you tape and post it. Very frustrating trying to follow you, you were drifting all over the place. And you go on and on and on about things that are just confusing. 'the thick stud...this one...that one...it's the thick one'. And the rambling about how you can't draw a key, who cares, just tell us what the wire of post is for and then mover on. Just point to it and say 'This thick stud' and then move on, it's just frustrating. And when you ramble on about things that are not really important, the information that IS important gets lost in the ramble. Easy to fix mate, just practice, do it a few times, watch it back on reply, and then post the one that gets to the point fast, easily and without the confusion. Your post was informative, it did show me what I needed to know, but it took about 3 times longer than it should have and I almost closed the window a dozen times out of frustration. But thank you for the effort and the information.
Seriously I’m pretty sure he said to jumper the alt terminal of the original solenoid with the original S terminal which makes no sense 🤷🏻♂️ now you’ve got two solenoids working. The entire point is to bypass the original solenoid
When i crank my car, it only last about 5-10sec till it breaks a 100amp breaker and the wire to the from the solenoid to the starter gets very hot, what can it be?
Connect a voltmeter to the battery and start cranking the car..of the volts go below 9.5 volts then u have a short in the starter motor..make sure ur battery is good first by load testing it
I used this 15 yrs ago on a Chevy Corvette, I didn't remember the exact steps and this video is perfect for helping me. I'm going to use it on a Universal Diesel 44 HP on a sailboat. Thank you!
Awesome! Good luck and don't forget to subscribe
Getting ready to do this on an 82 corvette. Thanks for the video. After reading through the comments it seems there’s about 25 way to spell solenoid wrong lol good luck y’all
Lol thanks for watching and good luck..don't forget to subscribe 😉
Klowny1969, Great video! Real easy to follow. The best part is that I won't have to crawl under my truck to see if there is a loose connection to the solenoid. I know there is one cable from the FORD solenoid that still has to be run to the starter, but I don't think I have ever seen these nuts and lock washers come loose. I have seen smaller wire to "S" or "I" terminal crack and or loosen because everyone is afraid to tighten them too much.
I already rewired my Blazer with this setup. I added a Anderson Powepole connector (use one side only) on the cable that goes to the starter from the FORD solenoid. I put it nearer to the new solenoid. I hook it up nice and tight to the starter while the starter is out of the car, so I can really get it snug. The added benefit is that I don't have to work so hard to get the damned wire connected to the starter in a cramped and confined space. I just have to mount the support brace and the two mounting screws.
This setup has solved a lot of issues, where I used to curse having to troubleshoot GM starter no-start situations in the past. Easy and highly recommended. Big thank you.
That's the reason I hooked up one.. No crank no Start issues. Works fine but I have to use a switch.. Is it optional? To use a switch or key?
Thanks for the video! My solenoid on my sbc went out today. Got a fresh rebuilt engine and had extra starts on tuning and such. But in theory, isn't the one on the starter going to do the same thing as mine did fail because of heat or overstarting? Just curious what you think of that? Like is the failure rate less addingn a external solenoid?
Did you have any luck with this? I'm having the same problem for the same reason and wondered the same thing as well while watching
Thanks mate for the great easy video on hooking up a remote solenoid. Cheers
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
I have a 65 El Camino with a 350 Chevy engine I have the problem of starting when it's hot so I bought an external 1990 Ford F150 solenoid very similar to the one that you show in video. Do you remove the red battery cable to it ? It seems like the solenoid that is on the starter is also running the external solenoid????
Thanks for the video man. I have a question. I have a total of 4 wires. I see the alternator and battery positive on the big lug, I have a smaller black wire I believe is the “S” wire, then I have another small black wire labeled “R”. I heard you mention the first two lugs but I did not hear you mention the “R” lug. My question is where does that wire land at on the new solenoid and what does it do and stand for? Thank you!
Hi, thank you for your video, everything make sense apart from when you mention the jumper piece. You say it needs to be fitted somewhere somehow on the solanoid....could clarify that point for me...I am not sure what to do with that jumper piece...
Thank you for awesome videos I have to watch it several times to get it. Thanks
If this is for heat soaked solenoid, how does it work if you still go through the old one that's still on the starter and hot as hell , thanks
Hi thanks for posting your videos, I'm looking to put a permanent start button in my 1987 ford f150, the solenoid switch is mounted on the fender. I'm having issues with ignition key where I have to turn past the normal to start. I'm looking to turn key toward start position and start with button. Then to shut it turn the key off. Can you tell me if I go with one wire off new button. To positive on battery and the other wire off button to the small S terminal on solenoid block, and should I put a fuse somewhere in there. Thanks for your help
AMC used that same solenoid. My '69 AMX has one just like that. The I terminal is for the ballast resistor bypass. During cranking, the coil gets a full 12 volts from the I terminal.
Thank you for your easy method....
Thanks and don't forget to subscribe
I switched wiring sets for whole switches and sensors, it was on a automatic car but mine is manual. I’m running into more problems than I thought, should I just switch back before I even try to finish
Where do you buy that little metal jumper? I used to use a piece of tin can lid cut with tin snips to make mine from scratch but the one you got looks a lot nicer than what I've always used.
It came with the solenoid kit
Great video. question if you do not use the jumper that go from post to post what will happen?
It won't crank..don't forget to subscribe
Gawlee that Texas Pete is making me hungry.
I'm looking into best way to do this I hear some people hook this up improperly and it ghosts solenoid stays on because they have there s terminal linked to the solenoid terminal on the starter, and holds power even after let off cranking. Your way seams way better. But I have a question how dose your starter know when to crank will it only get power when you turn the key all the way? I must be thinking wrong because I thought that was solenoid pops out a when the key is turned acc (not all the way) just before you turn to crank. Or is it solenoid pops out when you start cranking?
I got a question for you I have a 1993 forest floor no crank no start change the battery cables Illinois on it and nothing I have power to my lights And everything but won't start what do you suggest
Klowny - Thanks for taking the time to post this video. I installed this kit today on a C6 Corvette. Worked for the first two starts, then the starter stayed on (engaged and cranking) for a few extra seconds on 3rd start. Then on the 4th start, it stayed on and wouldn't tun off until I disconnected the battery. Car was not hot (only run for a few seconds between these starts), battery had been on a charger all night, solenoid was new (same kit as you show in the video) and I wired the way you have here (same as instructions in kit). Any thoughts on what caused the starter to stay on? Thanks, man.
+Charles Steenveld hey thanks for watching. .check to see if the solenoid is sticking..i have a video on how to test these on my channel..a simple test light can be used
+klowny1969 Thanks again - turns out the solenoid was bad - pretty common for those solenoids. I upgraded to a HD one from a Super Duty Ford truck and its good now. Running the same remote set up, just a more robust solenoid.
+Charles Steenveld yup thats what i figured..awesome
thanks for the video but where should i put the heater terminal? should connect it in the solenoid too?.
can't u buy a solenoid for the starter motor it's self or do they only come together with a starter motor, because my solenoid is starting to play up I have a xf 1988 Ford falcon what is cheaper the original solenoid or this type of one u have here cheers.
Great video. I have a question about a 3 post solenoid. I have one with a bump start on it. What do I do with the R terminal wire. I think it is suppose to get 12v from original 4 post solenoid?
do u have hei or points distributor?
will do! Thanks for your time!! Keep up the good work!
+yukon1000 thanks
Is there a starter solenoid similar to this one, but instead of an 'S' and 'I' terminal, has a 'S' and 'G' terminal, where the 'G' can go to a switched ground like for a Chrysler style neutral safety switch instead of grounding through the mounting bracket?
Pretty sure its keanu making this video for us
Yes it is..don't forget to subscribe 😉
Does the cold post only get power when the keys is engaged ? Once the key flips back to the run position the power stops and stops the starter from spinning correct ? Is there a post I can use on this to give power to my amp only when the key is in the on position ?
correct..you cant connect your amp to this..you need an ignition hot source..donot forget to subscribe
Where is the diode for the collapsing power reversal after the coil de-energizes? Or do you not care about the switch arching and blowing out eventually?
no need for a diode
Does the starter jumper metal piece come in this kit?
i have a 94 chevy with a Lt1! installed a new starter! it was good for 3 months! now i have to tap it to start! do you think it's the heat from the header that's killing it?
i would lean towards cheaply made starter..just get a 20 dollar starter blanket and wrap the new one
Klowny, hey bud where can I find one of them shims to connect the terminals on the starter? Looked around on Amazon notta.
Google "starter jumper wire"..or you can make your own..don't forget to subscribe
So that metal piece is used to jump the S terminal on the starter to the B+ terminal on the starter?
Yesir
I am trying to add one of these to a Cleveland 351 with a starter that only has one big post. should I just go from the battery to the solenoid, then solenoid to the battery?
i watch the video again and you said why is jumped LOL!!! ok... so the S terminal in the starter goes to the fat and the S in the selenoid... the S terminal in the selenoid will have the starter and key wire! got it!!! i have to re wire my starter :P
so i can put that on a chevy to bypass my solenoid ???headers are like a half inch n gets super hot will it work if my solenoid is bad its a newish starter but when hot wont start unless i bump it with screwdriver😒
gooooood video, i need to install a master cut off switch, where would that come into play?
that depends on if u want to be nhra legal..in other words..if u want to be able to shut the car off when its running..then u can check out my video on how to wire a relocated battery..if not. then just put a disconnect switch between the positive terminal on the battery and the feed cable to the alt/car..thanks for watching
Yes it needs to be nhra legal, i will check out your other video thanks
Helped a lot, thanks. One question, I have a mystery wire. Its 1979 mustang cobra v8, and I have a wire that i dont know where it goes. The car has an aftermarket security system in it, would it be possible that a wire frome that would go to the solenoid? It also has an engine kill switch hidden that prevents spark, but i tested that and I dont think the wire is from that because it still worked when the wire wasnt connected. Any clues?
where on the solenoid does it go? the small stud or big stud?
It has to go on one of the small ones because it wouldnt fit on the large one. Im 99% sure its for the alarm/security system after attempting to follow the wire through the firewall
+kyle kaminski probably a remote start for the alarm
I guess i don't understand how heat sosking causes the failure. How does the external solenoid fire a heat soaked one?
I have the same question.
Yes u are correct!..the only thing u should have left on the starter is the battery cable and the jumper connection..
Hey Nice video!I have a question for you. I have this same solenoid in my truck. I have it wired the way you state as well. My truck wont crank. However if I jumper the battery to that s post it cranks. Without jumpering I there is no cranking. Would this suggest that the solenoid is bad or the ignition switch. I would appreciate any advice you can give me and thank you in advance for your time. Will
sounds like ur issue is somewhere in the ignition circuit..ie: ignition switch,neutral safety switch, starter relay etc..
Got a quick question and problem. I hooked it up like you explained and it didn't start by turning the key so I jumped the S and the live side with the switch & wires and it started when I flipped the switch off it kept turning over. I unhooked the battery and took the power wire I ran from the old solenoid to the live side of the solenoid. after that I connected the switch to the live side and on the S , connected the battery and hit the switch and it started and I flipped the switch back off.. It kept running I took it for a drive and my interior lights stayed on the whole time. I have a 2005 Lincoln navigator. I had a no crank no start issue and advanced track error also a odo data error. I really need help.. Also when I was driving my speedometer wasn't working
Are you saying that you had a no crank issue and you did this is a fix? If that's the case, I would figure out what's wrong with the car first
I just got mine today and the instructions say to put the battery and everything on the opposite side than what you are showing. Do they work either way?
I know this is an older video, but I'm hoping Klowny or anyone can help. My Camaro has a remote solenoid on the inner fender. However, the positive cable from the battery goes to the other side (right side) (closest to the I terminal) and the other cable from the solenoid to the starter is on the left side (closest to the S) does this make a difference? It starts up, but want to ensure it's wired correctly. Thank you.
nope its good...can be wired both ways..thanks for watching
I installed a new solenoid in my 68 F250 truck and now when I go to hook up the battery cables it starts to crank I don’t understand what happened I know I reinstalled everything exactly the same help please
im hearing that people have starter run on when doing this. is it true? they say its because of the jumper wire on the starter
u might get the occasional sticky solenoid but overall i shouldnt have any issues
+klowny1969 *you
+klowny1969 what do you think about avoiding the ford solenoid and just putting a 200 amp circuit breaker on the power wire
+ss396rat a circuit breaker is like a fuse..not sure why you would want to put a circuit breaker instead of a solenoid? A solenoid will help with heat soak..a breaker wont
+klowny1969 im gona use the solenoid, i seen one guy with a breaker on his battery cable thanks for the info
I got mine all installed but all I had was some 10 ga. wire to run from the remote solenoid to the starter. It isn't sending enough power down to the starter to turn over the engine. What gauge wire do you recommend? I tested the solenoid without the wire from the solenoid down to the starter and I get over 12 volts but with the 10 gauge wire down to the starter I only get about 8 volts.
My 1973 ford f100 turns over as soon as I connect a hot battery to the truck. Pretty sure it’s wired exactly how you explained. What should I do??
Solenoid could be stuck
klowny1969 also Ive gone through three solenoids. What could cause that?
Check to see if u have constant hot at the small signal terminal..that should only be hot when u turn the key to crank
My starter is starting to suffer from soak now. Will a remote solenoid fix it or will I need a new starter also?
Just found this video, my question is how would this help with the hot start issue if it still uses the solenoid mounted on the starter?
Kind of wondering the same thing, isn't there a plunger of some sort that needs to move in the old solenoid and if so won't it still get hot?
thanks my friend, but i have to ask... why do you have to jump the S terminal in the starter with the fat bolt?? if the S terminal goes to the S terminal in the starter Selenoid?
im having problems with the jeep not cranking...i put a new starter solenoid just like the video so i have a one wire alternator that goes straight to the battery. so how can i do that setup? or should i just connect it to left side of the solenoid and ignition to the "s" and the right side to starter. am i missing something else or what?
Do you need to jump the two for it to work
Nice video klowny thanks carnal!!!
+jimbola77 Thanks for watching
I'm having that issue where my car won't start when I drive it for a while and my battery light is on I replaced the battery and had the alternator checked all working good but car won't start after I ride around the block a few times I have the same starter you've shown in the video any suggestions
Do a voltage drop test on your battery cables
Thanks 🙏
Great 👍 video
Klown, can this be used with a ls swap? Any response would be appreciated
Yes you can if you want
Alright so I'm redoing the old brittle wiring on my 74 Dart and I'm still fairly new to the engine electronics/ignition systems so bear with me here. I've heard you refer to the solenoid as a relay a couple of times. Is a solenoid the same thing as a relay? Would that be why my starter doesn't have a solenoid on it but a 10gauge wire running to a relay mounted on the inner fender well instead? The motor is burnt up so If I replaced the starter with one that has a solenoid mounted on it like that really chromy looking starter in your video could I toss the old relay and just run the ignition switch wire strait off the S terminal on the solenoid. The previous owners left the car's wiring a complete CF so i'm trying to reduce the amount of wires I have running around and remote mounted relays way out in left field acting as eye soars and what not. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to organization and stuff lol.
Yesir sounds right..good luck!
Manny Kran
Awesome :) Thanks, I'll probably need it lol.
I have a 73 Mach 1 and there's a 4th wire coming from the ignition coil, if I put it with the key wire the coil begins to heat up. What should I do?
you're a big help thank u so much
Thanks for watching
I need to know which wires go to which terminal.
Will this work on a high torque mini-starter with a permanent magnet? I have seen some diagrams saying to not to use a jumper but rather wire the "I" terminal on the solenoid to the "S" terminal on the starter?
u will need a relay
I cant get a good picture of the starter you are talking about..however , all starters are essentially the same..if u have headers close to it, it would be a good idea for a remote mount solenoid..i also have a heat shield from jegs that u wrap around my starter for extra heat protection ..
does the battery terminal go on first before the others on the solenoid
If you know what this guy is talking about you won't need this video.
I have passed the solenoid and when I start my vehicle it will not stay running unless the starter is engaged what do I do
What if the battery is connected to the other post terminal aka cables swapped
If I'm using a point distributor do I use the s and I on the remote sloenoid
Are you from New York ? I'm thinking Flushing !!
I grew up in queens lol
Can you attach relay anywhere...like frame
where does the fuse box get it's power now when it's wired this way?
Sounds logical except what is the purpose of this? Adding a second solenoid to your starter so you can mount that 2nd solenoid to the firewall? Maybe for troubleshooting purposes.??
I have a 93 ranger I changed negative ground and positive where does plug off neg go mi truck want start
It solves the heat soak issue common on modified GM engines with headers.
just curious well this work even if the starter solenoid is bad
No
I don't understand, if I am still depending on the operation of the solenoid attached to the starter to operate the bendix gear, what is the remote solenoid accomplishing, seems redundant?
William M. more juice i think
@@The.Lone.Wolf. Nope.
Hi, so what if I only have power on 3 terminals but not the other big terminal?
my car inside light won't turn on I thought it was the starter relay ..I have one just like the one In your video how can I fix my issue I replace the ignition switch n nothing ...
I did that but bendix isnt engaging what i do i made jumper out of wire
if I use a ignition switch in stead of key. I need to ground the neg. side of the switch?
Hey klowney,
Thanks for the vid! You saved me some time of recalling my original wiring.
A few questions:
1. when you say jump wire from original-starter-solenoid to the S terminal, I'm obviously wiring the "old" solenoid's hot (+) to the S terminal...
then THAT S terminal wire also connects to the s-terminal-post on the new remote solenoid, correct??
2. Also, how can I add/wire a push button start button to the new remote solenoid to have the push-button-start function in my old Chevy RV?
Thanks in advance for answering all my questions man!
DC
Why does my solenoid keeps getting stuck or something? It turns on fine for a couple of weeks and all of a sudden it won't crank. I bang on it a few times and it works again. I already replaced it and it's doing the same thing. Could you explain what's going on. Thanks
adan alvarez try a better brand solenoid..and double check for any loose wires..or bad wiring
klowny1969 what are some good brands for a 72 ford F250
Can I use a 24 v starter solonoit on a 12-volt starter?
Everything looks the same and fits perfectly it's just a 24 v
Good information
Im doing an ls 5.3 swap (86 chevy swb). I know you said that was a ford part, do you think it would be a good idea to use this? Thanks in advance.
Yes u can use this..thanks for watching
Ok so.... the battery and the alternator goes to the left side stud of the starter SELENOID, the right side stud of the starter SELENOID goes to the fat stud in the STARTER, the S terminal in the STARTER goes to the left side small stud in the starter SELENOID "s" terminal, and in that same "s" terminal of the starter SELENOID goes the wire to KEY right??? and i have to jump the S terminal in the STARTER with the fat stud in the starter too right???
People....I have read so many comments on here, that think by adding this, it will correct a failing solenoid on your current starter....IT WILL NOT.....you still need a good working solenoid on your current starter, regardless whether you add this remote solenoid or not.....
we have a 79 ford f250 have replaced the starter and solenoid relay on fender wall now it starts with the key on in acc position but the starter continues to spin untill we disconect the battery whats up with that any help would be much appreciated, stuck in arizona.wayne and karen.
Check at the solenoid to see if the small wire continues to have power..if it does then u have to trace that side of the circuit..if it doesnt then its the solenoid sticking
THANKS THAT DID IT,OREILLYS GOT IT RIGHT ON THE THIRD TIME,THE SOLENOID WAS CONSTANTLY ENERGIZED
Glad I was able to help :)
how to use the ford solenoid switch as an isolator for additional battery
great.Just trying to find where most wires hook.Starter by itself on solenoid.thks
Would this work for a starter.. that just clicks.. it will start when i bang the starter
+yukon1000 nope u need a new starter
klowny1969.. I'd like to use this Ford Solenoid as a switch to protect my house battery bank in an RV application. Do you see any problems with always having the 'key' post always energized to allow flow from my house battery bank to my DC appliances, and when I want to turn it off, I'll hit a switch I'll put on the 'key' wire? The reason why this solenoid could work well is because of how many amps I can run through it.. Thanks for the great video!
Can you tell us how to hook wires back on to starter for 99 Expedition Need to know what wire goes where (selanoid attached to starter) 3 posts
I did this to my 88 GTA tpi
And it didn't fix my hot start issue
Do you need a new starter that doesn't have the solinoid in it
I'm using my factory starter
And I put on a dei versa wrap on my starter and it fixed my hot start problem
So I did all of this for nothing
Ty
Ben Kalinowski this is a common starter heat soak fix..and so is the shield..sometimes one works and not the other
klowny1969 ok
I'm just happy it's fixed
Either way
I was just curious if you had a different starter for it
Nope..no special starter..thanks for watching and commenting
If you bypass the starter solenoid and use the good old ford solenoid hook it the way you said but the wire running to the starter should just hook to the thick post going straight in the starter because you're bypassing the starter solenoid because I guess because it was bad, so why still run through the bad starter noid. Just saying,
I noticed that as well, two solenoids in series is pointless. all He did was add a solenoid to energize the oe solenoid.
So are you saying run the right side of the Ford solenoid to the starter instead of the solenoid on the starter?
Ok...you have a heat soak issue with your GM starter. Solenoid is on the starter motor housing. If you wire the Ford remote solenoid the way he said, including the jumper, you effectively bypass the original solenoid. Look at the wiring. It’ll make sense to you. It’s a common hot rod method.
Nice
is this for a remote start
wait what do u mean by remote start?
Dude, please try to maybe do your comments a few times before you tape and post it. Very frustrating trying to follow you, you were drifting all over the place. And you go on and on and on about things that are just confusing. 'the thick stud...this one...that one...it's the thick one'. And the rambling about how you can't draw a key, who cares, just tell us what the wire of post is for and then mover on. Just point to it and say 'This thick stud' and then move on, it's just frustrating. And when you ramble on about things that are not really important, the information that IS important gets lost in the ramble. Easy to fix mate, just practice, do it a few times, watch it back on reply, and then post the one that gets to the point fast, easily and without the confusion. Your post was informative, it did show me what I needed to know, but it took about 3 times longer than it should have and I almost closed the window a dozen times out of frustration. But thank you for the effort and the information.
i thought this was the best explanation ive seen and not as boring
Seriously I’m pretty sure he said to jumper the alt terminal of the original solenoid with the original S terminal which makes no sense 🤷🏻♂️ now you’ve got two solenoids working. The entire point is to bypass the original solenoid
this is steve brewel
U can switch the two big post connections..yes
When i crank my car, it only last about 5-10sec till it breaks a 100amp breaker and the wire to the from the solenoid to the starter gets very hot, what can it be?
sounds like a short
+klowny1969 I tried looking for a short but only thing connected are the switches and lights. I will look again but closely, appreciate ur help thoe
+2MKiNg4 short can be in the starter motor as well
+klowny1969 how can i check that?
Connect a voltmeter to the battery and start cranking the car..of the volts go below 9.5 volts then u have a short in the starter motor..make sure ur battery is good first by load testing it
Lol great you got it!
I'm guessing your smashed and felt like making a video well for that I love you and keep making um, you know your shit and send it out there x
joey Brown thank u..u should check out my current videos..i bet u would love them