Yeah ur right..i saw this guys prior comments to other peoples vids..and they are all negative..doesnt really phase me .. Even if my videos help just one person..my job is done :)
got a q. if someones a hack can they put an after market car alarm... i found a relay wired intro and basically ontop of this solenoid.. without it no crank.. guess ill try the dvom method.
I had a math teacher once explain multiple ways to solve a problem. That's all good, but he would stop half way through one technique to show how to do it another way, then half way through start explaining another way. it was really hard to follow. This video reminded me of that guy.
This is a good video it’s helping heaps, I have a really old starter relay in my 1976 f100 and it’s a Bosch relay and doesn’t have the ground on the top, currently when I turn the car on the dash lights come on, but when I turn it to run the starter relay clicks but there’s no crank p.s starter is good and battery is 12.5 volts
Thank you for your video. My solenoid was bad. I replaced everything, all tests are good, but no I have no power to my entire car. Everything is connected and grounded. Remote starts for a second, then dies. The mail ground for the car is good also. 1970 mustang. Any ideas?
And can I put my crankshaft position sensor with it to? Or where does that go? Might sound silly but I am just having a hard time with these last things after puttin a new wiring thing on my engine, I swapped out my old one for a much better one. I do have the ecu and key that went with it but do I have to put these on as well? As much info as possible will help. Thank you
Thank you...this should help me find out if the solenoid is the problem on my 66 ford truck...finally got it running but now the starter wont disengage...it just continues to try and crank it...
I have one of these on my 91 Ford f350 7.5 but it's a 3 pole. 2 terminals on the side and 1 little terminal s. For the starter. Mine buzzes everytime. I already brought 2 and put them on and still doing nothing but only buzzes. My battery and starter are brand new from last year. Everything is bolted and nuts are all tight. I Don't wanna keep running back and forth to O'Reilly's getting another one and still doing the same.
theres quite a few good techicians on here, i think ur one of them, that takes the time to help others that want to pick some knowledge in the automotive field, it just now and then u have a knucklehead make stupid remarks, lol., they dont have nothing else better to do, but u keep on doin ur thing like the other techicians on here.
Hey so I have a question, how would I put the wires from my four ignition coils in this mix? Do I have to put my alt in with this ? And can I put crankshaft position sensor ei
At 2:15 you didn't mention wether the ignition should be on when checking for voltage,but that's o.k.( Oll korect ) i'll try it both ways.Thanks for the vid.
that is the battery side of relay, so u dont need key on to have volts there. so if no volts there either bad silinoid or bad connection or bad battery
The AutoZone near me only has one with four prongs. My vehicle is using one with three prongs. The website says it fits my vehicle. Could I use the four prong solenoid?
Mine failed the first test. There's infinite resistance between S terminal and ground ie no continuity. What should I do with it? I have a healthy battery and starter motor which work well when I bypass all the switches and relay. I heard something about a faulty automatic trans switch which only works in neutral and park which can be the cause of no start?
Hello Klowny1969. I have a 66 mustang. I recently had a problem (after an engine bay restoration). I was charging my battery and the 'i' wire melted at the distributer and also melted the distributor points. I have this same solenoid. After replacing the burned parts and wire, I tested my starter solenoid. With the ignition off, I am getting full 12.7 volts to the 'i' terminal. No voltage is going to the 'S' terminal. Is this normal? Appreciate your help.
klowny1969= thanks... but,,, if I hold the key inside the car after the tick,, how can I check full battery voltage to starter? since I need to hold the key in that position...
normally the coil gets only a few second of power (ignition key) but I wanna use it for switching my second battery off and on with it so my system can't drain the main battery if u know what I mean
the ignition coil has constant power..its the ground side that is pulsed on and off..not sure how u are relating the coil with a second battery..if u want a second battery to turn on and off with ur control.then yeah i can just wire a ford coil to it
oh, I just take a screwdriver and jump from the battery post to the s terminal. Should turn your starter if the solonoid is working. Make sure car is in park or neutral and key is off!
I'm having trouble in my starter solenoid that was new to my Mustang 69. Sometimes when you turn the key the engine continues to work. then I go to the solenoid on and off start plug. What could be the problem?
I have a 1973 or 74 F250 with a 390 engine I have spark when the ignition switch is in the start position but no spark when the ignition switch is in the run position, help
Rocky Graves Most often on old bikes its a corrosion problem.....Clean contacts and try to test with a test light, and with that you should be able to determine where you have 12v and grd......If you buy a piece of crap Chinese solenoid like I did then it may blow a fuse, like mine did.....Chinese wire crap backwards......When I asked this question to Jaguar aficionados they told me Clean Clean connections first.
thats the starter relay. solenoid engages the starter bendix through the movement of the solenoids piston and a lever that moves the starters bendix for ring gear engagement
when I turn the key I get a tick from solenoid...and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick and turn the key and car starts up....do you think it is the solenoid? or starter motor
Why if bench test ford ranger starter, it not stay ingauge if i keep small wire on pin. It uningage with start small wire on start point. It must only uningage only when i take of start thin wire, am i right or wrong? Rrrrrealy hope someone can help me. Thanks guys.
My 71 f100 is doing this I try to start it and it acts like the battery is dead, then I let go of the key and it keeps trying to turn over. Is this the solenoid staying closed?
Anyone have a test YTube for the same type Ford Solenoid but with ONE small terminal? And can anyone tell me WHAT year Ford product only had ONE small terminal? I want to replace lawn equipment crap cheap solenoid with a GREAT automotive one as seen here.
Key position make all the difference in the voltage test. key ON power to "I" stud then to Crank Pos. "S" should have power as the starter side of Colenoid. I got Thanks, I heard what you didn't say.
i think poor suport4all, i think his mama must of dropped him from her arms when he was just a tiny baby, oh well, thats the way it goes, not everyone is sound in mind.
Just in case you want to know, your instructions are not very clear. For example when say , "if you use this ground or that ground" I'm thinking, wait a minute I thought that there wasn't a choice. So maybe you can speak to those things that sound somewhat ambiguous . Otherwise thanks.
![ทุกครั้งที่หลับตา (Lucid Dream) - AYLA's [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4i1OBAQyv58/mqdefault.jpg)
Oh my gosh, I finally found your simple, clear, instruction.
Thank you!!!
Thanks..don't forget to subscribe
Yeah ur right..i saw this guys prior comments to other peoples vids..and they are all negative..doesnt really phase me .. Even if my videos help just one person..my job is done :)
got a q. if someones a hack can they put an after market car alarm... i found a relay wired intro and basically ontop of this solenoid.. without it no crank.. guess ill try the dvom method.
I had a math teacher once explain multiple ways to solve a problem. That's all good, but he would stop half way through one technique to show how to do it another way, then half way through start explaining another way. it was really hard to follow. This video reminded me of that guy.
This guy is awesome..u should check out his recent videos
@@klowny1969 I don't doubt that at all. This was just a lot of information to sort out.
Yeah, like conversations...
This is a good video it’s helping heaps, I have a really old starter relay in my 1976 f100 and it’s a Bosch relay and doesn’t have the ground on the top, currently when I turn the car on the dash lights come on, but when I turn it to run the starter relay clicks but there’s no crank p.s starter is good and battery is 12.5 volts
Thank you for your video. My solenoid was bad. I replaced everything, all tests are good, but no I have no power to my entire car. Everything is connected and grounded. Remote starts for a second, then dies. The mail ground for the car is good also. 1970 mustang. Any ideas?
Always enjoy your vids man. Thanks for sharing.
lol thanks man
Thank you sir,
You just saved me an expensive trip to the auto sparky.
And can I put my crankshaft position sensor with it to? Or where does that go? Might sound silly but I am just having a hard time with these last things after puttin a new wiring thing on my engine, I swapped out my old one for a much better one. I do have the ecu and key that went with it but do I have to put these on as well? As much info as possible will help. Thank you
Thank you...this should help me find out if the solenoid is the problem on my 66 ford truck...finally got it running but now the starter wont disengage...it just continues to try and crank it...
give it a little tap
I have one of these on my 91 Ford f350 7.5 but it's a 3 pole. 2 terminals on the side and 1 little terminal s. For the starter. Mine buzzes everytime. I already brought 2 and put them on and still doing nothing but only buzzes. My battery and starter are brand new from last year. Everything is bolted and nuts are all tight. I Don't wanna keep running back and forth to O'Reilly's getting another one and still doing the same.
theres quite a few good techicians on here, i think ur one of them, that takes the time to help others that want to pick some knowledge in the automotive field, it just now and then u have a knucklehead make stupid remarks, lol., they dont have nothing else better to do, but u keep on doin ur thing like the other techicians on here.
thank's klowny sweeeet presentation keep em'' rollin!!!!!!
Thank u sir
Klowns rule!
Excellent sound quality.
Thank u
Thanks fixed it!!!
Glad to hear..don't forget to subscribe and hit that bell
Hey so I have a question, how would I put the wires from my four ignition coils in this mix? Do I have to put my alt in with this ? And can I put crankshaft position sensor ei
This is so clear, thanks for that info!
Thanks don't forget to subscribe
At 2:15 you didn't mention wether the ignition should be on when checking for voltage,but that's o.k.( Oll korect ) i'll try it both ways.Thanks for the vid.
that is the battery side of relay, so u dont need key on to have volts there. so if no volts there either bad silinoid or bad connection or bad battery
Very helpful video. Thanks much. Subbed.
thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks, the video was helpful!
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
The AutoZone near me only has one with four prongs. My vehicle is using one with three prongs. The website says it fits my vehicle. Could I use the four prong solenoid?
well explained, this is clear and concise and sure to help many people. Thanks and keep up the good work.
thanks for watching and commenting
Good video clear and no bs
thank you
Very easy to understand thanks so much
Thanks for watching
yes i know but use it for like a second battery relay so the coil gets a longer amount of power I just wanna know if the coil can handle that
not sure if i understand u..can u elaborate?
Mine failed the first test. There's infinite resistance between S terminal and ground ie no continuity. What should I do with it? I have a healthy battery and starter motor which work well when I bypass all the switches and relay. I heard something about a faulty automatic trans switch which only works in neutral and park which can be the cause of no start?
Hello Klowny1969. I have a 66 mustang. I recently had a problem (after an engine bay restoration). I was charging my battery and the 'i' wire melted at the distributer and also melted the distributor points.
I have this same solenoid. After replacing the burned parts and wire, I tested my starter solenoid. With the ignition off, I am getting full 12.7 volts to the 'i' terminal. No voltage is going to the 'S' terminal. Is this normal? Appreciate your help.
Did you mean IGNITION SWITCH Terminal and the body should have continuity?
klowny1969= thanks... but,,, if I hold the key inside the car after the tick,, how can I check full battery voltage to starter? since I need to hold the key in that position...
gotta recruit a helper
My pluss cable melted on my Ford f150 - 1985 mod. Could a faulty solenoid do this?
If the solenoid is not good would it effect starting .if not enough power is going to coil?
Thanks! Very helpful
normally the coil gets only a few second of power (ignition key) but I wanna use it for switching my second battery off and on with it so my system can't drain the main battery if u know what I mean
the ignition coil has constant power..its the ground side that is pulsed on and off..not sure how u are relating the coil with a second battery..if u want a second battery to turn on and off with ur control.then yeah i can just wire a ford coil to it
oh, I just take a screwdriver and jump from the battery post to the s terminal. Should turn your starter if the solonoid is working. Make sure car is in park or neutral and key is off!
Thanks man!!! This helped a lot!!!
Ahahaa totally agree..alot of people like him on youtube..pretty funny
I'm having trouble in my starter solenoid that was new to my Mustang 69. Sometimes when you turn the key the engine continues to work. then I go to the solenoid on and off start plug. What could be the problem?
sorry i dont understand your question
Amy 68 mustang will crank over but will not spark but has power at coil ?
check for spark from the coil..if none..then u need a coil
CAn you use the right side of the solenoid as power in? and just test the left side for power out?
Yesir. ..and thanks for watching
I have a 1973 or 74 F250 with a 390 engine I have spark when the ignition switch is in the start position but no spark when the ignition switch is in the run position, help
Rocky Graves Most often on old bikes its a corrosion problem.....Clean contacts and try to test with a test light, and with that you should be able to determine where you have 12v and grd......If you buy a piece of crap Chinese solenoid like I did then it may blow a fuse, like mine did.....Chinese wire crap backwards......When I asked this question to Jaguar aficionados they told me Clean Clean connections first.
Does a bad solenoid cause no spark ⚡️
What if the solenoid doesn't have any resistance, mine is not reading 3.5
Thanks, This is a big help !
I will thanks man..i really appreciate it! :)
I am looking for this style solenoid what is this from or do you got a part number for it
Just google ford solenoid...thanks for watching
No try again... its a ford 4 terminal solenoid i use them in my lowrider for the hydros
Napa Echlin ST81
what If terminal-I makes my test light come on with key OFF...what does that mean??
anthony 35 it means it's bad. The inside had arched and is welded inside. bad solenoid.
thats the starter relay. solenoid engages the starter bendix through the movement of the solenoids piston and a lever that moves the starters bendix for ring gear engagement
when I turn the key I get a tick from solenoid...and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick,,and turn key and tick and turn the key and car starts up....do you think it is the solenoid? or starter motor
when u turn key and click.hold it there and see if u are getting full battery voltage to the starter
Why if bench test ford ranger starter, it not stay ingauge if i keep small wire on pin. It uningage with start small wire on start point. It must only uningage only when i take of start thin wire, am i right or wrong?
Rrrrrealy hope someone can help me. Thanks guys.
What do you mean by "to give it voltage battery"?
why with the key in off position, the starter turns when I connect battery cables?
dumpingground1 this is a very old video..please elaborate on your question
My 71 f100 is doing this I try to start it and it acts like the battery is dead, then I let go of the key and it keeps trying to turn over. Is this the solenoid staying closed?
@@natesv04 Yes replace...
It’s called
Polling Stater Most likely. It’s a Bad. Celinod on starter. Have to remove starter to chang it
What happens if if have them backwards the connections
Jesus returns. We’re not ready to go yet, so don’t do it.
Anyone have a test YTube for the same type Ford Solenoid but with ONE small terminal? And can anyone tell me WHAT year Ford product only had ONE small terminal? I want to replace lawn equipment crap cheap solenoid with a GREAT automotive one as seen here.
is it possible to use it like a ralay i guess not but just asking
the solenoid is a type of relay
they call it starter reply too or sometimes...cuz it works like one
Thank you i appreciate the video
Thanks.
Thanks 🏎
Make sure.
Lol you're killing me
Thank your for your help Clown...............
Np thanx for watching
Ok, ok, got it- you don't need to yell at me, dad,- geeeezzzz!! Lol
Seriously though, thanks for the vid
Thank you sir
@@klowny1969 no... Thank YOU!
Key position make all the difference in the voltage test. key ON power to "I" stud then to Crank Pos. "S" should have power as the starter side of Colenoid. I got Thanks, I heard what you didn't say.
Mark Herrmann lol
Search for DAN HOWSER on youtube..send him a message..i think you would get along
i think poor suport4all, i think his mama must of dropped him from her arms when he was just a tiny baby, oh well, thats the way it goes, not everyone is sound in mind.
I hate that you switched to an "in the car" tutorial 1/3 of the way through. No offense but two seperate videos would have been way better.
Sorry bud..I suck..what can I say?
Just in case you want to know, your instructions are not very clear. For example when say , "if you use this ground or that ground" I'm thinking, wait a minute I thought that there wasn't a choice. So maybe you can speak to those things that sound somewhat ambiguous .
Otherwise thanks.
painful
"Mil
boring. you all over the place
Don't forget to subscribe 😉
Incorrect
Don't forget to subscribe
Why are you yelling into the mic? Very moment I heard you speak, I just paused the video and wrote this and closed the tab.
ask me if i care
He's probably sitting in a room, it echoes his voice. Ever, thought of that?
stick to working on chevys half this information was wrong
Oh yeah? I just wired a car like this..and works oerfectly fine
Painful to watch! No faith in the advice.
this wqs a very long time ago..check out my new videos..and dont forget to subscribe
He kind of muddles through this but eventually gets most of the way. Terminology needs a bit more care.
Don't forget to subscribe 😉