I did this to my motor this weekend (cause the balance shaft bearing fell out) and I am I’m Impressed the motor fells like it has more torque and power, there is a lil bit of a vibration at idle but just a lil. I recommend doing this.
Great video..Once the shafts are removed what about all the other wide oil ports inside the block? Without the shaft(s) being removed wont they now bring down and actually lower the rest of the system pressure since they're now left wide open?
As far as i know the oil port that is blocked up is the same oil gallery feeding the back balance shaft bearing. It may drop the overall oil pressure having the rear ones still open however seeing that my oil gauge pressure went up from 10 to 35psi at warm idle i would say it is not worth bothering over.
Your video is 100% correct just turn the bearings 90 deg, I'm finally getting my block back from the machine shop. I've cleaned and see there's just one oil feed at this bearing location, Its the actual balance shafts, they're fitted with oil journal that feeds the rear bearings, no need once bal shafts are removed. Also its why the engine oil pressure actually increased since the oil is no longer being distributed to these bal shafts. thx again for your video. @@ebayenthusiast42
What do you put back in place over the bearings if not reinstalling the balance shafts? What blocks the 2 big holes in the block where they normally go.
nothing blocks the holes, the purpose of the removal is to boost your oil pressure, and re installing the bearings to block the oil ports is all that needs to be done.
I caked some hardening putty onto the holes under that swuirts the balance shaft chain. The tensioner should be fine fully extended as the oil pressure will fill the cavity inside once it locks at maximum travel. Make sure you leave the front hole for the timing chain gear open
@@ebayenthusiast42you can put with all that holes because nothing change on that part of the pressure system, the only thing it’s that you don’t have the balance shaft chain tha it’s
This was going smoothly for me until my tap snapped off in the block. I am trying to think through how to remove the metal shavings that are in the oil galley. Any idea how to flush that properly? My engine is out of the truck and the head is off.
my condolences mate. i will look to see if there is a schematic of the oil flow for the 3rz. if you have smacked the offset bearings in already you have have to remode the one above the snapped tap and blow all the chips out. you may have to dig the tao out with a carbide burr and oversize the hole to m8 or m10 for the plug. let us know how you go.
Thanks for the reply! I also looked for a schematic and tried to use a vacuum on nearby oil holes. Wasn’t getting anywhere with a drill and carbide bits so I picked up the cheapest welder at harbor freight and was able to weld a nut to the tap and back it out. Thanks for the vid and the help!
Hey mate, would it be just as easy to 90° the bearing and put the shafts back in? Then there no need to drill and tag or plug tensioner holes? Is that right? Or am i just being extra lazy?
I'm pretty sure that the hole you drill and plug goes it the back balance shaft bearings. id guess that putting the balance shafts back in would restrict the oil flow a good amount but not to the full effect effect of a blind plug. the running clearance between the bearing and a balance shaft journal would probably be similar to the big end bearings. Answer: if you really CBF then go ahead, but plugging it will be more worth your time while its apart.
I made a few videos whist doing the build. Once the shafts are removed, the bearings flipped and the oil port plugged its just throwing the timing chain on as came off just without the balance shaft chain on the crank sprocket. If you have any problems there a facebook group called 2/3RZ turbo community that has friendly members that will answer any questions you post
Ooof mate thats not good. Id suggest measuring down the hole on your engine. In the video mine measures 31mm deep. Id suggest drilling and tapping all the way down your hole and running 1 grub screw either covered in thread sealent or loctite down the hole but not bottoming it out as it would plug the coolant port. Maby touch the back then back it off 5mm or so. Then run another grub screw down and tighten it against the first one effectively locking them together. Again use sealant or something. Is your head off the engine? You might be able to shine a torch down the first coolant port and see where it has broken through.
Why cant I just delete the chain and leave everything else as is? I don't see the benefit of removing less than 10 pounds from the engine and doing all this work.
pulling the chain will stop the balance shafts rotating but oil will still flow through their galleries. the reasoning mainly for deleting them like this is to up your oil pressure as at high horses number 3 rod likes to say g'day to the side of the block.
![⚔️จำกัดเวลา⚔️ [พากย์ไทย] ซอร์ดอาร์ตออนไลน์ ซีซั่น 1 - ฉบับมัดรวมทุกตอน](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ohkfBVDXLSA/mqdefault.jpg)
I did this to my motor this weekend (cause the balance shaft bearing fell out) and I am I’m Impressed the motor fells like it has more torque and power, there is a lil bit of a vibration at idle but just a lil. I recommend doing this.
RIP Balance shaft, you will not be missed
Just saved me 100 bucks, thank you :)
Jonathan McDonald kasim
Jonathan McDonald thaks
Great video..Once the shafts are removed what about all the other wide oil ports inside the block? Without the shaft(s) being removed wont they now bring down and actually lower the rest of the system pressure since they're now left wide open?
As far as i know the oil port that is blocked up is the same oil gallery feeding the back balance shaft bearing. It may drop the overall oil pressure having the rear ones still open however seeing that my oil gauge pressure went up from 10 to 35psi at warm idle i would say it is not worth bothering over.
@@ebayenthusiast42 Very helpful video thx
Your video is 100% correct just turn the bearings 90 deg, I'm finally getting my block back from the machine shop. I've cleaned and see there's just one oil feed at this bearing location, Its the actual balance shafts, they're fitted with oil journal that feeds the rear bearings, no need once bal shafts are removed. Also its why the engine oil pressure actually increased since the oil is no longer being distributed to these bal shafts. thx again for your video. @@ebayenthusiast42
no worries mate hope your build goes well!@@vanhap
thx again for your video@@ebayenthusiast42
Nice and simple.
What do you put back in place over the bearings if not reinstalling the balance shafts? What blocks the 2 big holes in the block where they normally go.
nothing blocks the holes, the purpose of the removal is to boost your oil pressure, and re installing the bearings to block the oil ports is all that needs to be done.
You can drill the block and use a chain squirter from a 2rz to keep oil on the chain. Works great and saves the LC kit $$$
@@ryanlogan2911 good tip!
And the stretcher hole, like a hole?
For anyone that’s done this to a daily truck, is there any actual noticeable vibrations? Odd that the 2rz doesn’t have these.
For my only thing is my exhaust rattled more since its held on with hoseclamps. The car doesnt feel shaky or unpleasent at all
Would an m2 grub screw work to plug the oil journal?
@@j.b.1526 from memory the hole was like 3 or 4mm in diameter so an m6 would be the minimum size
ShaolinSpoolieBoi Yep. Missed that part. Caught again on the review.
Why no one mentioned how beautiful and pieceful the background noise is?
I do live the bird chirping, very peaceful
what happend with the tensioner holes, how did you plug
I caked some hardening putty onto the holes under that swuirts the balance shaft chain. The tensioner should be fine fully extended as the oil pressure will fill the cavity inside once it locks at maximum travel. Make sure you leave the front hole for the timing chain gear open
@@ebayenthusiast42you can put with all that holes because nothing change on that part of the pressure system, the only thing it’s that you don’t have the balance shaft chain tha it’s
With the oil squirter how many holes do you have to plug off the one that squirts the chain ?
5:23 the 2nd hole towards the back is the one you plug up. the hole at the front squirts the bottom timing chain sprocket
How do you plug the hole on the squirted
This was going smoothly for me until my tap snapped off in the block. I am trying to think through how to remove the metal shavings that are in the oil galley. Any idea how to flush that properly? My engine is out of the truck and the head is off.
my condolences mate. i will look to see if there is a schematic of the oil flow for the 3rz. if you have smacked the offset bearings in already you have have to remode the one above the snapped tap and blow all the chips out. you may have to dig the tao out with a carbide burr and oversize the hole to m8 or m10 for the plug. let us know how you go.
Thanks for the reply! I also looked for a schematic and tried to use a vacuum on nearby oil holes. Wasn’t getting anywhere with a drill and carbide bits so I picked up the cheapest welder at harbor freight and was able to weld a nut to the tap and back it out. Thanks for the vid and the help!
@@joelchristopher190 glad to hear you got it sorted! A welder is never a bad investment
what size of drill bit did you use???
depends on what size grub screw you use, mine was an M8x1.25 so the tapping drill size was 6.75mm
Hey mate, would it be just as easy to 90° the bearing and put the shafts back in? Then there no need to drill and tag or plug tensioner holes? Is that right? Or am i just being extra lazy?
I'm pretty sure that the hole you drill and plug goes it the back balance shaft bearings. id guess that putting the balance shafts back in would restrict the oil flow a good amount but not to the full effect effect of a blind plug. the running clearance between the bearing and a balance shaft journal would probably be similar to the big end bearings.
Answer: if you really CBF then go ahead, but plugging it will be more worth your time while its apart.
Yeah righto. Ill just do it properly. Hahaha
Have you a Followup Video on completing the Job?
Cheers'
Thnx
I made a few videos whist doing the build. Once the shafts are removed, the bearings flipped and the oil port plugged its just throwing the timing chain on as came off just without the balance shaft chain on the crank sprocket. If you have any problems there a facebook group called 2/3RZ turbo community that has friendly members that will answer any questions you post
Where in Australia are you from mate? I have 2010 with 2trfe motor, cheers
Im from Perth WA. The 2tr can be turboed aswell but theres less of a fanbase for it.
I drilled it to far and now leaks water , do you know how to fix that ??
Ooof mate thats not good.
Id suggest measuring down the hole on your engine. In the video mine measures 31mm deep. Id suggest drilling and tapping all the way down your hole and running 1 grub screw either covered in thread sealent or loctite down the hole but not bottoming it out as it would plug the coolant port. Maby touch the back then back it off 5mm or so. Then run another grub screw down and tighten it against the first one effectively locking them together. Again use sealant or something. Is your head off the engine? You might be able to shine a torch down the first coolant port and see where it has broken through.
Why cant I just delete the chain and leave everything else as is? I don't see the benefit of removing less than 10 pounds from the engine and doing all this work.
pulling the chain will stop the balance shafts rotating but oil will still flow through their galleries. the reasoning mainly for deleting them like this is to up your oil pressure as at high horses number 3 rod likes to say g'day to the side of the block.