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@@abadunam1323 yea mate it doesnt really matter where you go from. Aslong as all the marks line up to the right spot its all sweet

@@ebayenthusiast42 Cheers, thanks man

@@jamessteele5455 sounds like the radiator could be a bit clogged up. Its left for less and right for shite ("shite thats more fuel") on the fuel screw. Try 1/8th of a turn adjustments and see if she keeps overheating. If you have any light bars in the way of the grille id suggest removing them and seeing if it still overheats.

@@ebayenthusiast42 brand new alloy radiator engine has just had 13k spent on it for a rebuild definitely no water issues only gets hot on boost for extended periods

@@jamessteele5455 intresting, id try pulling a bit of fuel out and seeing if it doesnt get as hot. is the turbo water cooled?

@@ebayenthusiast42 water and oil cooled and the oil cooler is water cooled lol

@@CumarDuale youd want to change all the injectors at once as they are flowed and matched so one cylinder doesnt get more fuel than the others and run hotter

@@ryanlogan2911 good tip!

@@mdfarid9689 that doesnt sound right, was your fuel screw sticking as far out as mine was at the end of the video?

@@user-xg6gg5mc4g nah mate providing you line up all the timing marks you can throw the new belt on and it will be sweet.

@@TimLeary-rw3oq still running. It is my daily driver so havent had time to do many vids.

@@ebayenthusiast42 cheers. I got a new head. Gonna run extra cooling line from back of head through welshplug to radiator. Bigger head gasket for lower compression. Mabey drop piston height. More boost

@@TimLeary-rw3oq piston protrusion is fine i wouldnt worry about that. If you wack the thickest headgasket in it will go fine. These engines love boost ive seen people run 40 to 50psi but you are getting to the hit&miss zone then haha.

@@ebayenthusiast42 haha. That’s a bit further than I expected but f yeah. I forget. U running 11 mm in the pump or 8?? My gq won’t no what’s happened!!

@@TimLeary-rw3oq im running an 11mm in mine. With the standard 9mm plunger you wont be able to make much power it would max the stock tb2527 gq turbo to 17 psi and run lean above that.

@@TheRsrunner you need to unplug the cam sensor (sensor in the side of the electric ETI) pump i believe the plug is grey and a 3 wire one. You need to shave it down a little bit and it plugs straight into the crank angle sensor at the bottom of the timing belt.

The ECU is what low sides the glow light on the dash for it to turn on. I only needed that wire so my dash light worked. If you are making up a bypass relay like i did the rest is seperate from the ecu since the ecu acts as the glow timer

im pretty far off implementing my setup got too much on the go right now. it would definitly be a good way to tune some power in without melting pistons.

@@ebayenthusiast42 Sounds like it can have two purposes. I am not after power or performance i'm ok with a 1HZ NZA engine in a big old coaster motorhome cruising. I just thought its a good way to clean the waste veg oil in the engine if it works for that.

if you look at the fuel pin side on you will see the cone is ground offset to one side. That side needs to be put towards the fuel injector lines in order for it to be at the max fuel setting.

@@ebayenthusiast42 Thanks, mine is a Triton so maybe slightly different but it seemed to increase as I oriented the max ramp towards the timing gear.

the only direct bolt on turbo that will fit without change is anothger GT1752s. they make some with a billet compressor wheel (turbochargers australia) was the brand i ran. aparently the cct ones arent good. they will work but if you run more than 17psi they will just be inefficient but still work.

Hey mate. If you message me on my instagram page i can answer any questions. It does depend on the car as all my wiring is to suit the RZN149 hilux sold in australia.

The pump works similar. Inside it before the plunger and hydro head is a vane pump that draws the fuel from the i let hose and builds an initial pressure of diesel. This pressure is regulated by a relief valve. The pressure increases as RPM increases and draws more fuel in. This pressure increase compresses the advance piston and advances the pumps timing internally as rpm and pressure increases. You can fiddle with that setting (not really needed tbh) but you need OEM bosch tooling and a Diesel pump test bench. About $30 000 of equipment.

Happy to help mate. I do not run idle speed increase cable but you need a gas pedal cable. No electronics accept the shutoff solenoid.

If it is all the way up against the bore of the hole it may be bit difficult. Id try sliding a cut out piece of soda drink can down and see if it will get between the pin and the side of the hole. If it does see if you can get a pin or a seal pick down and push it back into its bored hole. If it doesnt want to move and is jammed it may be bent or damaged.

Is the the sequence that the pipes are attached and fitted or the sequence that the injector pump feeds the injectors?

i havent worked on them myself, from what i know they are a great motor though. old style Bosch P pump.

The stuff from the old ETI pump or the GQ mechanical pump?

Yes this has the mechanical GQ pump swap with the bigger plunger swapped over too. Ive done a caveman tune on it and it runs pretty well considering its lugging 35" tyres

Afraid not mate, the RD28eti uses an electronically governed pump. The only way to tune them if with a steinbauer/performance module that wires into the pump.

you mean the fuel pin wit hthe ground profile in it? if it is not wanting to come out id try gently tapping the top of it with a nylon hammer to see if some viabrations will dislodge it. you may have to function it up and down with your thumb to get it come loosen up enough to come out.

@@ebayenthusiast42 Si si de acuerdo la semana que viene he de comprar la membrana y entonces haré lo mismo que usted en el vídeo sacando la parte superior sacando la membrana y jugar para poder aflojar y limpiar la pieza cónica esperando tener suerte para que el pin pequeño pueda retroceder y poner todo en orden, lo extraño es que el coche funciona muy bien, quizás en altas revoluciones le falta un poco de fuerza pero yo no sé apreciarlo porque nunca he tenido un coche así 4wd. Gracias por todo en una semana me pondré al trabajo cuando tenga la membrana nueva saludos

@@ebayenthusiast42 Hola al final pude sacar el eje de la membrana y limpiar todo ahora tiene mucho potencial coche pero si pongo la pieza cónica en la parte más profunda la aguja tropieza con el borde del cónico y no acaba de subir hacia arriba pero no importa porque girando 15° consigo que suba y baje con libertad está perfecto un saludo. Por qué silba tanto el turbo de tu coche?

@@rzf8945 the turbo whistle is loud because this Rd28 runs the Gt1752 turbo which is very small. the older RD28s came with a bigger TB2527 which is larger and wont be spun at as righ RPM meaning less noise.

@@ebayenthusiast42 ok thanks

cheers mate, glad you enjoyed the video!

thats a pretty good effort for a patrol clutch. my first car was a 1997 hyundai excel 1.6 and 7 people learned to drive in that car on one clutch. since that hyundai would be 1.2 tonnes lighter than a GQ patrol that makes sense the clutch would be under less strain.

@@ebayenthusiast42 I been changing a few parts. Old guy didn't replace anything. Patrol are well made.

the plunger bore hole needs to be machine reamed to within 0.01 of a mm in order for the plunger to create a diesel tight seal down the bore. not something doable unless you have a machine shop and the nesescary tooling. much easier to use the heads that have been manufactured by Bosch. when buying directally from machine shops the hydraulic head, plunger and metering sleeve all come as one i.e the plunger or hole is machine first and all the other parts are made to suit that specific part due to the working tolerances.

@@ebayenthusiast42 understandable mate

the he221 is definitly a good upgrade. that being said it all depends on your plan with the car. considering all the fabrication required to get it working it may be a better option to fit a reconditioned stock turbo as it will bolt straight on. as for as boost goes the GQ turbos arent huge fans of running more than 17psi. the turbos usually weep oil out from the cartridge flange gaskets pretty normal.

@@ebayenthusiast42 thx mate

@@ebayenthusiast42 I guessing I might go 15psi b good.

my condolences mate. i will look to see if there is a schematic of the oil flow for the 3rz. if you have smacked the offset bearings in already you have have to remode the one above the snapped tap and blow all the chips out. you may have to dig the tao out with a carbide burr and oversize the hole to m8 or m10 for the plug. let us know how you go.

Thanks for the reply! I also looked for a schematic and tried to use a vacuum on nearby oil holes. Wasn’t getting anywhere with a drill and carbide bits so I picked up the cheapest welder at harbor freight and was able to weld a nut to the tap and back it out. Thanks for the vid and the help!

@@joelchristopher190 glad to hear you got it sorted! A welder is never a bad investment

I really wouldnt be able to guess. Il take it to the dyno one day but its pretty on par with my mates td42 running 10psi. Out of boost is a different question but it definitely boogies pretty well. The 11mm pump is cranked up now.

Are you running a 9mm pump? I dont believe that GU injectors would be a problem. Do you have an EGT gauge? Make sure that when you bump the fuel down you adjust the idle bump screw up so the engine stays running.

@@ebayenthusiast42 hahaha thanks for your help mate just got it going had the old vacuum line still connected to the vacuum pump to the old sensor and it would go to stall out when I would turn the wheel. I have just blocked it off atm what did you do with it?

@@jackspence9825 which vac lines? All my vac pump connects to is the brake boost and vacuum accumulator canister.

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Have you looked at the transfer case? Only other things i could think is you have a different diff ratio in the back.

The stock garret is a smaller turbo so it will we spun at idle much more than the he221 hence the idle noise. Do you run an intercooler?

i should make an update video. it runs real well. i have the 6cm rear housing which is fairly similar to the stock turbo as far as turbo lag goes. if oy are thinking abou the holset id go for the 5.5cm rear housing one as it would be quicker on boost and would be nowhere near its end of efficiency even at 30psi of boost.