Nice video. As a lad on our farm in Missouri we spent a lot of time cutting wood for home heating. We had an old bulky McCullough that was difficult to start and cut wood with speed to match molasses in winter. Ads for Ol Blue hadn't been on for long when I talked my dad into buying one. I always thought it was just an XL12 but came to realize its a Super XL. Come forward 50+ years and I got this saw from my dad. Not only did I get the saw but the owners manual that came with it. On the back of the manual is the purchase date: Feb 24, 1966, the store we bought it from: Big 4 in Stanberry, Mo and the serial #: 2088090. It doesnt look as good as the one in your video but after cleaning it up it has been put back to work by me and one of my sons. I do love my Blue!
Hi Leon I have 2 of these old Super XL-12's 1 is with Manual oiler the second is Super AOXL-12 & I have a older C5 Homelite all three Restored by good friend with New Stickers & labels that he made up on some computer program around 15 yrs ago - Love these chainsaws but to old to use them anymore! I owned about 30 Chainsaw at one time but have given most away except the 3 Homelites and a Bantum Chainsaw from the early 30's !
Came across this video doing some research and getting my late grandfathers old homelite saws running. 3 of them are super xl's, 2 of them later automatic oilers, and one of them is identical to your saw in the video in close to the same condition. With just a carb clean it runs and cuts great! sat for atleast 20 years, probably closer to 30.
Just ordered a new piston/seals/gasket for mine! Cant wait to rebuild her! Will use your other video on crank seal change out as a guide! Thanks for the help!
I have one of these. It was a hand-me-down when some relatives cleaned out a barn. It looks nearly as nice except some clutch cover damage. I have the original hard nose bar for it. First thing I did was plug in a compression gauge and got 140👍. It even still has the oddball TJ-8J plug. This year I decided to give it a thorough cleaning and changed the crank seals while I was at it. Throttle response and midrange torque on the SXL always impresses me. Serial 2114443. Cheers!
Ive got the remains of one like it that my Father bought new in 64 . same oiling setup. It had the wick fuel filter system. Im thinking of fixin it up just because.
dunno if you guys gives a damn but if you're bored like me atm you can watch all the new series on InstaFlixxer. I've been binge watching with my girlfriend for the last months =)
I just bought an old Homelite Model XL-1 Blue paint (like your XL) at an auction for $21.00. This one is a Canadian made saw. Terry industries, Pointe Claire, Quebec. It is in very good condition. I am having my brother see if he can get a carb kit for it. Seller says it was rarely used and then sat in the garage for 25 yrs. The fuel line was rotted out as expected. Other than that it looked pretty clean and not much wear and tear. I believe it is from the early 70's, but could be older.
Just picked a super xl just like this with manual oiler. Runs like a champ, fires on the 2nd pull. Cuts like a sawmill, lots of power!! Best $15 I've ever spent!! Where can I find an "S" clip?
I got one of these blue saws.. I payed 50 bucks for. Didnt even hear it run.. Put fuel in it pulled it twice and ran.. I wont take 500 for it now...but there is a oil leak on it. Never even think to look where you showed this one... Thanks..
This was the first saw I ever used, I was 11 in 1975. I was born in 64 and the saw is a 64. I still have it today. It starts but won't run. Haven't spent much time on it. Built the carb, converted it to electronic. I just got the saw after my dad passed. And I'm not sure what it needs yet. I've got a 74 Poulan, the Texas chainsaw one. Plus a Poulan micro, 77 model, and the Similar Homelite that was the other saw I used as a boy. Plus my modified Poulan Wildthing, 26 years old, another Poulan 2450 I got in early 90's, a Poulan Pro 4018 (?) 4218? Can't remember. And my Husqvarna 460. I'm currently in the emergency room, I broke my finger using the he splitter today. Bye bye fingernail.
...I have what I believe may be a VERY early XL-12...it is in need of total restoration, but it is a light metallic blue,black/white stenciling(paint or markings are not in great condition) it has the early wick-type fuel pickup, early aluminum exhaust stub instead of a muffler, and it has a handle support like the one on that Xl-15 gear drive in another video you have...and it looks to be original to the saw...also, the recoil starter has a through-bolt, something similar to a near-flush fitting carriage bolt, to hold on the starter pulley..it has traces of the logo and the blue paint on it, and looks factory-original, so I do not think it was something added later...have you ever seen a saw like this? I have it in storage and haven't looked at it for a while, so I'm not sure if it still has the serial # tag on it or not...I will have to look...it is seized up, but if it is as early an example as I think it might be, I want to restore it for sure...I got to thinking about it when I saw that handle support on that XL-15 gear drive and realized it was shaped like the one on my old XL-12....
Just picked up one of these today at an auction. At first sight, I thought it's a SXLAO. Then at a later time, I wiped some of the grime next to the oil fill. To my surprise, an aluminum expansion plug was were normally is the auto oiler. Paint is a little rough, but the ID plate states that its a Super XL. Serial number starts with 19468, will be fun to dig into it and clean it up.
I've got a that saw, plug in the oil tank, no AO stamping, except mine has no logo on the clutcj cover and on the stater cover it only has a "direct drive" sticker, it says super xl on the tag, im thinking it was a very early dealership model? Cant think of any other reason it would be labeled like that.
I was just today given that exact saw by my neighbor, he said he'll never use it and said you can have it if you want it so I took it, I'm working on cleaning it up now, he said it would run and pulling the cord on it felt and sounded like it has strong compression. Are parts for these still available? 5/4/2022
Is it a must to use the expensive molded fuel line on these ,or can I use a strait fuel line ,maybe with a grommet or something? I run 3 red ones that I'm planning on rebuilding the carbs on and replacing the lines as well. Also how much do you sell the carb kits and molded lines for? Thank You in advance.
I don't sell carb kits unless I get NOS Homelite ones. I also do not sell the molded lines as they are aftermarket and do not stand up well to today's gasoline. I convert saws to regular hoses using this kit: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/store/p4986/NOS_Homelite_Super_XL_Automatic%2C_XL-12_Chainsaw_Aftermarket_Tygon_Fuel_Hose_%26_Grommet_Set_FLS21B.html You've got to stretch the tip of the hose a bit to fit the large barb, but it's worth the effort.
I actually own the same saw. I was told from the serial # that it is likely from 1964. Bought it off a salvage guy for $20. I have rebuilt the carb but still need to replace the fuel line. Also for some reason a DPO drilled a hole in the top of the fuel cap and screwed a grease zerk in it for some reason. Guess I’ll need to find another one of those too. Hopefully I’ll have it running again soon. Shame mine isn’t as clean as that one!
Something else that is unusual about my saw is the fuel line. It does not run like the one here. It actually comes out the top of the tank right behind the fuel cap, then runs thru the hole in the right front of the carb box as shown on this saw. I thought maybe someone had modified mine, but it does NOT have an opening in the tank as this saw does for the line to run straight across so it must be original. Another oddity I noticed is that the serial # has a “P” stamped in front. Maybe stands for Prototype, don’t know.. Have you ever seen a saw like this one before?
Well Homelite never had the fuel hose exit through the top of the tank, so my guess is the PO did a quick conversion. It'll work, but not really the best location. Any chance you have any pictures of this setup? The "P" stands for Phelon points ignition. Wico was more common on these saws, but the parts don't interchange, including the flywheel. So if you do any ignition work at all, make sure you stick with Phelon parts & part#'s.
Yes I do have some pics of the saw. As I said, there is no place for the line to go into the right rear of the tank as it is on the saw shown here. And I cant see that there was ever a hole there. Don’t know how to attach pics here.
Where did you get the fuel line? I picked up an XL-100 skill saw. Things in remarkable shape for being as old as it is but the fuel line discintegrated. Went to my local automotive store and could find any fuel line that would fit the pump pickup and down through the tank hole. Did you just use regular fuel line and drill the tank hole bigger?
No I use aftermarket Tygon line meant for small engines. This kit on my website is what I would use: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/store/p4986/NOS_Homelite_Super_XL_Automatic%2C_XL-12_Chainsaw_Aftermarket_Tygon_Fuel_Hose_%26_Grommet_Set_FLS21B.html
Leon, I have the same saw and there is no idle hole and/or idle screw on the side like the Automatic. Can you enlighten me a bit? I want to get this idling normal before I set the H and L. TYIA
It just depends on how badly corroded they are. Splitting the tank can be a pain, but if it's corroded too badly, that may be the only way to clean it. I recommend Red-Kote. I've used it and it really works. Check it out here: damonq.com/red-kote.html
Hey Leon, Where in the Rogue Valley are you located? I'm in Cave Junction and I work at Dave's OPE. If yer somewhat close by I thought I'd pay a visit.
Ok cool, I'm about 1.5 hours North of Phoenix. I don't head out there much, but next time I plan on it I'll send you a message and we can work something out! I have an old super xl auto you might like. Love those old Homelites. I'll be in touch!
Nice ! But I got a question,what was and how did it work what they called a direct drive,did have a clutch ? Also if you can please tell me what mix ratio did these saws run on.
Direct drive does have a clutch, but no gear reduction. Even the gear drive saws have a clutch, but the clutch drum is a gear that drives another gear to give you the reduction. These saws originally ran on 16:1 mix, but by the end of the run Homelite had upped the ratio to 32:1. This topic tends to start a lot of arguments, but using a high quality oil today (like Stihl or Amsoil) you can run a much leaner mix than the 50 year old recommendations. I run all of my saws on Amsoil Saber at 80:1 and I have never had one burn up. Pretty much any good modern oil can be run at the manufactures recommendation and as long as the saw is mechanically sound & tuned, you won't have a problem.
Someone help, I have this same chainsaw and can't for the life of me find a manual online or anything about the oil tank removal. The top copper oil line is slightly leaking and I have no idea how to take the tank off to reach the line and tighten it.
That's a pretty big dissassembly...you've got to remove the starter, carburetor, throttle handle and then you can get the tank off. Go slow, take pictures and label your screws and you should be just fine though.
..if it was an XL-12 or Super XL, you certainly got a deal!..if it was one of those little mini-XL's with the pulse-hose oilers that never work, I wouldn't have paid even a dollar for it....
I am shocked to realise that all these beautiful saws that I see on Leon's channel are not collectible items, but saws in use! A guy here in comments says he uses a 50+ y. o. Super XL!? People, why? It's a sin if you ask me.
Nope, that's pretty low...not enough to run. I'd check the exhaust side for scoring. If there is none, put some automatic transmission oil mixed with Acetone in the cylinder and let it set for a few days. This will loosen stuck rings and can bring compression up.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair not yet Leon I found the ignition wiring cut so I just ordered used one from France, the only one available across Europe I am lucky!
Hey Very nice saw. Have one , but I think the coil are damaged. Model before 1960, I think. Any one who knows where i might get a new coil? Impossible to get here in Norway...
You'll have to look and see if you ignition system is Phelon or Wico/Prestolite. If you remove the starter cover and look at the top of the flywheel, the brand will be cast there. Contact me through www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com as I'm sure I can find a good used or possibly new coil for you.
Nice video. As a lad on our farm in Missouri we spent a lot of time cutting wood for home heating. We had an old bulky McCullough that was difficult to start and cut wood with speed to match molasses in winter. Ads for Ol Blue hadn't been on for long when I talked my dad into buying one. I always thought it was just an XL12 but came to realize its a Super XL. Come forward 50+ years and I got this saw from my dad. Not only did I get the saw but the owners manual that came with it. On the back of the manual is the purchase date: Feb 24, 1966, the store we bought it from: Big 4 in Stanberry, Mo and the serial #: 2088090. It doesnt look as good as the one in your video but after cleaning it up it has been put back to work by me and one of my sons. I do love my Blue!
Awesome history with that saw...thank you for sharing! Enjoy it!
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@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepa ir. Where can I find a bar for my blur homelite super xl, it has 3/8 bar studs & I believe a 404 pitch.. pls help
Hi Leon I have 2 of these old Super XL-12's 1 is with Manual oiler the second is Super
AOXL-12 & I have a older C5 Homelite all three Restored by good friend with New
Stickers & labels that he made up on some computer program around 15 yrs ago -
Love these chainsaws but to old to use them anymore! I owned about 30 Chainsaw
at one time but have given most away except the 3 Homelites and a Bantum Chainsaw
from the early 30's !
Cool looking saw! Thanks for sharing!
Came across this video doing some research and getting my late grandfathers old homelite saws running. 3 of them are super xl's, 2 of them later automatic oilers, and one of them is identical to your saw in the video in close to the same condition. With just a carb clean it runs and cuts great! sat for atleast 20 years, probably closer to 30.
Just ordered a new piston/seals/gasket for mine! Cant wait to rebuild her! Will use your other video on crank seal change out as a guide! Thanks for the help!
I have the same saw. Runs great and I went with 20" bar. thanks for the vid.
Just pu one today with the manual oiler...good info on it. Thank you
I have one of these. It was a hand-me-down when some relatives cleaned out a barn. It looks nearly as nice except some clutch cover damage. I have the original hard nose bar for it. First thing I did was plug in a compression gauge and got 140👍. It even still has the oddball TJ-8J plug. This year I decided to give it a thorough cleaning and changed the crank seals while I was at it. Throttle response and midrange torque on the SXL always impresses me. Serial 2114443. Cheers!
It's cool to find one that still has the TJ-8J!
Ive got the remains of one like it that my Father bought new in 64 . same oiling setup. It had the wick fuel filter system. Im thinking of fixin it up just because.
Great video Leon.
I also own one of these. It was given to me by a friends father. Runs well and pulls a 20" bar just fine.
I believe these saws to be the most reliable chainsaws ever made
dunno if you guys gives a damn but if you're bored like me atm you can watch all the new series on InstaFlixxer. I've been binge watching with my girlfriend for the last months =)
@Jeremias Miguel yup, have been watching on InstaFlixxer for months myself =)
@Jeremias Miguel Yup, I've been using InstaFlixxer for years myself =)
I have 7 of these exact saws I am working on for my self and I heat up the new fuel line with heat gun and works great.
That link I posted is for a direct grommet molded match fit. (No drilling) Worked like a gem. Rebuilt my super xl yesterday.
I have one of the Super XL saws. Manual oiler but the oil fill was down by the handle and on/off switch.
I have a 1979 XL 12, great saw. 20"
I just bought an old Homelite Model XL-1 Blue paint (like your XL) at an auction for $21.00. This one is a Canadian made saw. Terry industries, Pointe Claire, Quebec. It is in very good condition. I am having my brother see if he can get a carb kit for it. Seller says it was rarely used and then sat in the garage for 25 yrs. The fuel line was rotted out as expected. Other than that it looked pretty clean and not much wear and tear. I believe it is from the early 70's, but could be older.
I have one exactly like that.same color on the handle too.manual only. Maybe that's more common in midwest.
Just picked a super xl just like this with manual oiler. Runs like a champ, fires on the 2nd pull. Cuts like a sawmill, lots of power!! Best $15 I've ever spent!! Where can I find an "S" clip?
I got one of these blue saws.. I payed 50 bucks for. Didnt even hear it run.. Put fuel in it pulled it twice and ran.. I wont take 500 for it now...but there is a oil leak on it. Never even think to look where you showed this one... Thanks..
This was the first saw I ever used, I was 11 in 1975. I was born in 64 and the saw is a 64. I still have it today. It starts but won't run. Haven't spent much time on it. Built the carb, converted it to electronic. I just got the saw after my dad passed. And I'm not sure what it needs yet. I've got a 74 Poulan, the Texas chainsaw one. Plus a Poulan micro, 77 model, and the Similar Homelite that was the other saw I used as a boy. Plus my modified Poulan Wildthing, 26 years old, another Poulan 2450 I got in early 90's, a Poulan Pro 4018 (?) 4218? Can't remember. And my Husqvarna 460.
I'm currently in the emergency room, I broke my finger using the he splitter today. Bye bye fingernail.
good work well done i got 12 or 15 xl 12s none like that one
I have this same saw. It belonged to my wife's great grandfather.
the oiler pump was operated by the thumb of your right hand
the oiler pump plunger button is on that saw
...I have what I believe may be a VERY early XL-12...it is in need of total restoration, but it is a light metallic blue,black/white stenciling(paint or markings are not in great condition) it has the early wick-type fuel pickup, early aluminum exhaust stub instead of a muffler, and it has a handle support like the one on that Xl-15 gear drive in another video you have...and it looks to be original to the saw...also, the recoil starter has a through-bolt, something similar to a near-flush fitting carriage bolt, to hold on the starter pulley..it has traces of the logo and the blue paint on it, and looks factory-original, so I do not think it was something added later...have you ever seen a saw like this? I have it in storage and haven't looked at it for a while, so I'm not sure if it still has the serial # tag on it or not...I will have to look...it is seized up, but if it is as early an example as I think it might be, I want to restore it for sure...I got to thinking about it when I saw that handle support on that XL-15 gear drive and realized it was shaped like the one on my old XL-12....
Cool! What you are describing is a very early XL-12, perhaps first year!
Just picked up one of these today at an auction. At first sight, I thought it's a SXLAO. Then at a later time, I wiped some of the grime next to the oil fill. To my surprise, an aluminum expansion plug was were normally is the auto oiler. Paint is a little rough, but the ID plate states that its a Super XL. Serial number starts with 19468, will be fun to dig into it and clean it up.
Sounds like a great project!
I just picked up one of these. What is the copper line for under trigger handle? I have to fix mine and never saw this on a saw before. Tyia
Will the Mcculloch bars with a 5/16 slot work on these Homelite saws with 5/16 bar studs?
I think I have the same model old blue and no oiler controlled screw just a plug wonder if it's around the same but the trates it may be
I've got a that saw, plug in the oil tank, no AO stamping, except mine has no logo on the clutcj cover and on the stater cover it only has a "direct drive" sticker, it says super xl on the tag, im thinking it was a very early dealership model? Cant think of any other reason it would be labeled like that.
I was just today given that exact saw by my neighbor, he said he'll never use it and said you can have it if you want it so I took it, I'm working on cleaning it up now, he said it would run and pulling the cord on it felt and sounded like it has strong compression. Are parts for these still available? 5/4/2022
Great vid thanks, I've two blue models,was wondering what they would be worth to sell? And how do you figure out the years? Thanks.
Is it a must to use the expensive molded fuel line on these ,or can I use a strait fuel line ,maybe with a grommet or something? I run 3 red ones that I'm planning on rebuilding the carbs on and replacing the lines as well.
Also how much do you sell the carb kits and molded lines for?
Thank You in advance.
I don't sell carb kits unless I get NOS Homelite ones. I also do not sell the molded lines as they are aftermarket and do not stand up well to today's gasoline. I convert saws to regular hoses using this kit: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/store/p4986/NOS_Homelite_Super_XL_Automatic%2C_XL-12_Chainsaw_Aftermarket_Tygon_Fuel_Hose_%26_Grommet_Set_FLS21B.html
You've got to stretch the tip of the hose a bit to fit the large barb, but it's worth the effort.
...oh, and it has the small bar-mount studs, also....
I have one of those with the manual oiler ...has a strange spark plug in it
I actually own the same saw. I was told from the serial # that it is likely from 1964. Bought it off a salvage guy for $20. I have rebuilt the carb but still need to replace the fuel line. Also for some reason a DPO drilled a hole in the top of the fuel cap and screwed a grease zerk in it for some reason. Guess I’ll need to find another one of those too. Hopefully I’ll have it running again soon. Shame mine isn’t as clean as that one!
That's a new on on me...never seen a grease fitting in a fuel cap!
Something else that is unusual about my saw is the fuel line. It does not run like the one here. It actually comes out the top of the tank right behind the fuel cap, then runs thru the hole in the right front of the carb box as shown on this saw. I thought maybe someone had modified mine, but it does NOT have an opening in the tank as this saw does for the line to run straight across so it must be original. Another oddity I noticed is that the serial # has a “P” stamped in front. Maybe stands for Prototype, don’t know.. Have you ever seen a saw like this one before?
Well Homelite never had the fuel hose exit through the top of the tank, so my guess is the PO did a quick conversion. It'll work, but not really the best location. Any chance you have any pictures of this setup? The "P" stands for Phelon points ignition. Wico was more common on these saws, but the parts don't interchange, including the flywheel. So if you do any ignition work at all, make sure you stick with Phelon parts & part#'s.
Yes I do have some pics of the saw. As I said, there is no place for the line to go into the right rear of the tank as it is on the saw shown here. And I cant see that there was ever a hole there. Don’t know how to attach pics here.
my email is: leoncrouch@hotmail.com
Where did you get the fuel line? I picked up an XL-100 skill saw. Things in remarkable shape for being as old as it is but the fuel line discintegrated. Went to my local automotive store and could find any fuel line that would fit the pump pickup and down through the tank hole. Did you just use regular fuel line and drill the tank hole bigger?
No I use aftermarket Tygon line meant for small engines. This kit on my website is what I would use: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/store/p4986/NOS_Homelite_Super_XL_Automatic%2C_XL-12_Chainsaw_Aftermarket_Tygon_Fuel_Hose_%26_Grommet_Set_FLS21B.html
Leon, I have the same saw and there is no idle hole and/or idle screw on the side like the Automatic. Can you enlighten me a bit? I want to get this idling normal before I set the H and L. TYIA
I have one just like that my granpa gave me the only difference is mine has a automatic oiler
Know where one's sitting & I've worked on these before.
Very nice👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸👌👌
I just bought 3 xl 12 and sadly all three have fuel tanks full of corrosion. any ideas. everything iv read says to not split the tanks.
It just depends on how badly corroded they are. Splitting the tank can be a pain, but if it's corroded too badly, that may be the only way to clean it. I recommend Red-Kote. I've used it and it really works. Check it out here: damonq.com/red-kote.html
Mine says xl-122 and serial tag on the side. Can anyone tell me anything about it?
I bought one like that Tuesday for 10 dollars but it has a self oiler
So that makes yours a Super XL-AO...nice saw!
อยากทราบว่าคอยไฟซื้อได้ที่ไหน
Hey Leon, Where in the Rogue Valley are you located? I'm in Cave Junction and I work at Dave's OPE. If yer somewhat close by I thought I'd pay a visit.
I'm in Phoenix...if you contact me through my website, we can setup a time to get together: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/contact.html
Ok cool, I'm about 1.5 hours North of Phoenix. I don't head out there much, but next time I plan on it I'll send you a message and we can work something out! I have an old super xl auto you might like. Love those old Homelites. I'll be in touch!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice ! But I got a question,what was and how did it work what they called a direct drive,did have a clutch ? Also if you can please tell me what mix ratio did these saws run on.
Direct drive does have a clutch, but no gear reduction. Even the gear drive saws have a clutch, but the clutch drum is a gear that drives another gear to give you the reduction. These saws originally ran on 16:1 mix, but by the end of the run Homelite had upped the ratio to 32:1. This topic tends to start a lot of arguments, but using a high quality oil today (like Stihl or Amsoil) you can run a much leaner mix than the 50 year old recommendations. I run all of my saws on Amsoil Saber at 80:1 and I have never had one burn up. Pretty much any good modern oil can be run at the manufactures recommendation and as long as the saw is mechanically sound & tuned, you won't have a problem.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair Thanks for the good info.
I have 2 new cylinders and pistons and rings for an Old Blue homelite
I just look on mine and it has no automatic oiler too
Just wondering what a saw like that is worth now?
Someone help, I have this same chainsaw and can't for the life of me find a manual online or anything about the oil tank removal. The top copper oil line is slightly leaking and I have no idea how to take the tank off to reach the line and tighten it.
That's a pretty big dissassembly...you've got to remove the starter, carburetor, throttle handle and then you can get the tank off. Go slow, take pictures and label your screws and you should be just fine though.
Thank you sir
Think of got some pieces of one
I recently purchased one of these saws. Same exact one. Blue with manual oiler. Serial number 182997. Any idea when it was it was made?
Early 1965.
Thanks
I bought 4 chainsaws this week for a dollar each. One is an XL. I think I have my work cut out for me.
The price is certainly right!
..if it was an XL-12 or Super XL, you certainly got a deal!..if it was one of those little mini-XL's with the pulse-hose oilers that never work, I wouldn't have paid even a dollar for it....
I am shocked to realise that all these beautiful saws that I see on Leon's channel are not collectible items, but saws in use! A guy here in comments says he uses a 50+ y. o. Super XL!? People, why? It's a sin if you ask me.
Gee I think the manual oil plunger would have been enough for me.
Hi Leon I have 80 psi on my super xl12 is it normal? Thanks
Nope, that's pretty low...not enough to run. I'd check the exhaust side for scoring. If there is none, put some automatic transmission oil mixed with Acetone in the cylinder and let it set for a few days. This will loosen stuck rings and can bring compression up.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair thank you Leon will let you know
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair I get 100 psi thanks to your advice merci
@@AdamMotors Well that is better...is the saw running?
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair not yet Leon I found the ignition wiring cut so I just ordered used one from France, the only one available across Europe I am lucky!
Hey Very nice saw. Have one , but I think the coil are damaged. Model before 1960, I think. Any one who knows where i might get a new coil? Impossible to get here in Norway...
You'll have to look and see if you ignition system is Phelon or Wico/Prestolite. If you remove the starter cover and look at the top of the flywheel, the brand will be cast there. Contact me through www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com as I'm sure I can find a good used or possibly new coil for you.
Will do
I just grabbed one at a garage sale for 20 bucks. In better shape than this one. Its the center of my homelite collection