Leon, thank you for the excellent videos you post. Got two super xl's at auction. Tear-down and clean was a must; both my saws being packed with sawdust/oil. Same as your project both needed carburetor attention, stiff diaphragms in both, one zama and the other tillotson and the zama had a swollen inlet valve tip. Glad you went over the recoil starter, one needs attention and now I know what steps to take. Keep-up the good presentations you make; I particularly like your style- down to earth, simple, honest, no B.S, tell it like it is- gives me a comfortable feeling like a well worn in pair of shoes.
I really like watching your videos I have a XL - 12 I bought back in the late 70s or maybe early 80s sill have it but don't use it now use my 250 stilh every now and then don't saw up much wood now buy it all ready sawed up watching from Newfoundland Canada
I ran into cleaning out the exhaust ports and mufflers long ago, completely untrained. Even recently I cleaned out carbon from a saw I am restoring. Biggest trick is to make sure you have the piston positioned to completely block the port. What I have been doing is using some gas or carb cleaner to soften the carbon, and if possible use a hardwood stick to clean the crap out. Using a metal tool that is softer then the cylinder would work but that would be near as soft as a hardwood stick lol A brass tool would at least prevent scratching the rings and hopefully the piston, more so than steel anyway. I found a very effective and quick way to clean my mufflers. I set the parts on my big vice and carefully heated them with my oxy/fuel torch till just getting red, burning off the carbon. Cool and brush and they are good to go ;-)
On that recoil shield that was curled up but otherwise good. I have taken a wooden breadboard set the shield on it put an old t shirt over it and with an iron set on high ironed it flat again. As long as you check it you should not have any trouble. This works on many but not all.
Love the videos man keep em coming! Looks like there was sparking from the coil wire to the engine fins at around 1:17 or so...that saw has tons of spark and didn't mind releasing some to ground 😂 Thought it was worth a mention....love the content Leon!
I had a cell phone when I drove semi truck. When I turned 62 and quit driving truck. I got rid of it, Hated that Phone. Debbie and I dont own a cell Phone. But our Children and Grandkids would go nuts without one.
That was very entertaining big guy! Almost an hour and a half of hangin' out with Leon in the shop watching and learning how the Homelite king does it. More entertaining than the junk on the boobtube any day! I like the long in depth videos man. Thank you for sharing your expertise with us. You've done videos on a number of my saws over the years and it's just very cool watching you work. Thanks for taking us along buddy.!
For the recoil spring, I've had good luck with putting them in the ultrasonic with degreaser but you need to oil them straight away after they come out. Might take a little longer but if you start there while you fix other stuff it isn't that bad.
Awesome. I have a few of these and parts. I have several running but they all need something. The manual oilers are problematic. I have a newer one with electronic ignition. It came way too dissembled; not sure why. I put it together with a carb borrowed off a working XL-12, and it runs...ran. Since this was not the original carb, and the saw sounded odd to me, I never put enough of it together to see if it is usable. It had a 4 part pyramid reed valve I think. It has been hard to find service/parts manuals for the Canadian versions. It may have only sounded odd because it has a big fat muffler, whereas all my other XL-12's have tiny, very loud ones. Now you have me wanting to get back to fixing/maintaining them.
I am still having difficulty getting the oilers to work well on a few. I bought an o-ring kit to replace the O-rings in the plunger. I check the spring and ball check valve; fix when needed. Then...nothing. Primed the plunger before reassembly, but still no pumping, at all. Noticed on this one old saw that the oil cap had the tabs broken off, so much that there was a hole in the middle. When I pushed the plunger, oil squirted out the hole. Used a tiny screw and gasket maker to seal the hole, and added a bigger o-ring for a plug gasket.. Still don't pump, damn it. Tank isn't leaking so there's that lol I will have to examine the in tank oil filter; which I should have done when I had the rest apart, and also find a way to know the oil pipe to the chain is clear, and/or flush it clear. This one has me stumped at the moment, along with others that just won't pump well...but I keep looking ;-) Got to the point that my first test to see if a saw was worth restoring, was if it would pump oil to the chain. I use my saws, and no matter how well everything else works, I am not going to carry an oil can with me while cutting wood ;-)
I appreciate the great video and the way you explain it. I am just starting to mess with small engines and flipping mowers and got 3 different size Homelite chainsaws as well and this shows me perfectly how to proceed with the initial inspection and teardown!!
Great video Leon. The only thing that i didn't see was fuel filter. Maybe because there isn't one! I don't know. I have a new to me 410 saw. Great compression, great spark, and a new carb. No start. I pulled the plug and put a little fuel in the cylinder. Screams like a banshee. So obviously a fuel problem. I haven't pulled the carb yet to inspect the fuel line, manifold, and reed block but was wondering if there's a fuel filter or potential problem to look for. Thank you.
Longtime subscriber. Debbie and I watch all your videos. Im one of those old guys that still runs a 16 to one fuel. I dont have carbon issues. However I run a stack or a gutted muffler withthe bafels and spar arrestor removed. I deaf so it dont effect me! Eny road we just posted a video of a C 91 homelite I got that has a crankshaft rubbing the housing problem.
Fun fact: Partner has automatic oiling of the clutch drum bearing. No need to grease it. No need to oil it. It will oil itself with two stroke oil from the engine.
Mr.leon I wanna say as new fella trying to save these ole homelites n trying to teach myself also n learn my boy to I wanna say ty for all the videos u put out u have taught this ole holler boy alot n also i wanted to know what is that casing beside the stihl case when u was spraying the saw off I got one n box of parts n i have no idea what it is..any help would help out alot
Leon, thank you for the excellent videos you post. Got two super xl's at auction. Tear-down and clean was a must; both my saws being packed with sawdust/oil. Same as your project both needed carburetor attention, stiff diaphragms in both, one zama and the other tillotson and the zama had a swollen inlet valve tip. Glad you went over the recoil starter, one needs attention and now I know what steps to take. Keep-up the good presentations you make; I particularly like your style- down to earth, simple, honest, no B.S, tell it like it is- gives me a comfortable feeling like a well worn in pair of shoes.
I agree Im 73 and been using and fixing my own saws for about 60 years. And Ive learned a lot from watching Leon.
I really like watching your videos I have a XL - 12 I bought back in the late 70s or maybe early 80s sill have it but don't use it now use my 250 stilh every now and then don't saw up much wood now buy it all ready sawed up watching from Newfoundland Canada
I ran into cleaning out the exhaust ports and mufflers long ago, completely untrained. Even recently I cleaned out carbon from a saw I am restoring. Biggest trick is to make sure you have the piston positioned to completely block the port. What I have been doing is using some gas or carb cleaner to soften the carbon, and if possible use a hardwood stick to clean the crap out. Using a metal tool that is softer then the cylinder would work but that would be near as soft as a hardwood stick lol
A brass tool would at least prevent scratching the rings and hopefully the piston, more so than steel anyway.
I found a very effective and quick way to clean my mufflers. I set the parts on my big vice and carefully heated them with my oxy/fuel torch till just getting red, burning off the carbon. Cool and brush and they are good to go ;-)
On that recoil shield that was curled up but otherwise good. I have taken a wooden breadboard set the shield on it put an old t shirt over it and with an iron set on high ironed it flat again. As long as you check it you should not have any trouble. This works on many but not all.
Love the videos man keep em coming! Looks like there was sparking from the coil wire to the engine fins at around 1:17 or so...that saw has tons of spark and didn't mind releasing some to ground 😂
Thought it was worth a mention....love the content Leon!
Very entertaining. When comes to phones I understand your frustration with them
I had a cell phone when I drove semi truck. When I turned 62 and quit driving truck. I got rid of it, Hated that Phone. Debbie and I dont own a cell Phone. But our Children and Grandkids would go nuts without one.
You do such a great job making these videos. How you are able to set the camera to focus on the workbench and do everything in frame is amazing
That was very entertaining big guy! Almost an hour and a half of hangin' out with Leon in the shop watching and learning how the Homelite king does it. More entertaining than the junk on the boobtube any day! I like the long in depth videos man. Thank you for sharing your expertise with us. You've done videos on a number of my saws over the years and it's just very cool watching you work. Thanks for taking us along buddy.!
Love your videos. Used my XL 2 yesterday and ran like a scalded dog. Love the old saws. Keep the vids coming.
Great video!
Have the exact saw and similar results!!!
For the recoil spring, I've had good luck with putting them in the ultrasonic with degreaser but you need to oil them straight away after they come out. Might take a little longer but if you start there while you fix other stuff it isn't that bad.
I use a small vacuum cleaner when I clean the exhaust port
Awesome. I have a few of these and parts. I have several running but they all need something. The manual oilers are problematic. I have a newer one with electronic ignition. It came way too dissembled; not sure why. I put it together with a carb borrowed off a working XL-12, and it runs...ran. Since this was not the original carb, and the saw sounded odd to me, I never put enough of it together to see if it is usable. It had a 4 part pyramid reed valve I think. It has been hard to find service/parts manuals for the Canadian versions. It may have only sounded odd because it has a big fat muffler, whereas all my other XL-12's have tiny, very loud ones.
Now you have me wanting to get back to fixing/maintaining them.
I am still having difficulty getting the oilers to work well on a few. I bought an o-ring kit to replace the O-rings in the plunger. I check the spring and ball check valve; fix when needed. Then...nothing. Primed the plunger before reassembly, but still no pumping, at all. Noticed on this one old saw that the oil cap had the tabs broken off, so much that there was a hole in the middle. When I pushed the plunger, oil squirted out the hole. Used a tiny screw and gasket maker to seal the hole, and added a bigger o-ring for a plug gasket.. Still don't pump, damn it. Tank isn't leaking so there's that lol
I will have to examine the in tank oil filter; which I should have done when I had the rest apart, and also find a way to know the oil pipe to the chain is clear, and/or flush it clear. This one has me stumped at the moment, along with others that just won't pump well...but I keep looking ;-)
Got to the point that my first test to see if a saw was worth restoring, was if it would pump oil to the chain. I use my saws, and no matter how well everything else works, I am not going to carry an oil can with me while cutting wood ;-)
love the videos
I appreciate the great video and the way you explain it. I am just starting to mess with small engines and flipping mowers and got 3 different size Homelite chainsaws as well and this shows me perfectly how to proceed with the initial inspection and teardown!!
Great video Leon. The only thing that i didn't see was fuel filter. Maybe because there isn't one! I don't know.
I have a new to me 410 saw. Great compression, great spark, and a new carb. No start.
I pulled the plug and put a little fuel in the cylinder.
Screams like a banshee. So obviously a fuel problem. I haven't pulled the carb yet to inspect the fuel line, manifold, and reed block but was wondering if there's a fuel filter or potential problem to look for.
Thank you.
Love working on the XL series
good vid thx
Longtime subscriber. Debbie and I watch all your videos. Im one of those old guys that still runs a 16 to one fuel. I dont have carbon issues. However I run a stack or a gutted muffler withthe bafels and spar arrestor removed. I deaf so it dont effect me! Eny road we just posted a video of a C 91 homelite I got that has a crankshaft rubbing the housing problem.
Fun fact: Partner has automatic oiling of the clutch drum bearing. No need to grease it. No need to oil it. It will oil itself with two stroke oil from the engine.
Mr.leon I wanna say as new fella trying to save these ole homelites n trying to teach myself also n learn my boy to I wanna say ty for all the videos u put out u have taught this ole holler boy alot n also i wanted to know what is that casing beside the stihl case when u was spraying the saw off I got one n box of parts n i have no idea what it is..any help would help out alot
Great work on the saw I learned a lot about the work and cleaning have a great weekend and be blessed
❤
Hello Leon,great video!
I agree with your take on oil/fuel ratio for this saw. What ratio do you recommend running if you don't mind me asking?
With that kind of spark I will bet it's points ignition
Do u sell flywheel puller for these saws, also a manual oiler rebuild??? Thanks leon
What was the tool you used to clean the needle valve seat ?
A cotton bud.