I sure hope Deere watches this video. The 3r open has the worst ergonomics of all the series. My wife had the same problem as your wife. She couldn't reach the pedals. The loader slop was excessive too. The 3r cab rockshaft and loader joystick were horrible. Again..my wife has a bad shoulder and had a difficult time using the loader. It's very stiff. It's hard to do precision work with the cab loader. We went from a 2038 (which was great, but didn't have the loader capacity that we needed), to a 3039r cab, then open 3039, then ended up with an open 4R and couldn't be happier. Listen up Deere!!
When I was tractor shopping I was very disappointed with the premium compact Deeres joystick responsiveness. The 3025e had much better joystick responsiveness.
You can adjust the rockshaft “pulling force” by adjusting the 17mm bolt on the side of the trans case where the rockshaft control goes in. So mine from the factory was terribly tight, but after some adjustment of the nut it’s butter smooth. So it’s kinda hard to validate that result.
My dad said the dealer came out to do the same to his 4052R, it was terribly hard before they did that, but he forgot all about it until we read your comment.
For anyone reading this and want to adjust.... On a cabbed 3R, the nut is just above the valve block for the loader and a little further in on the trans case. Follow the cable for the three point coming out of the cab to the shaft. You will want to loosen the nut some, but if you loosen too much then your shaft lever will not stay in place and always start to drift down when you hit bumps, or even worse if too lose. Have to find that fine line between too tight and too lose. Once you get that sweet spot I find it just as easy as my 2038R. The next question should be why the massive difference in the 4R and 3R cabbed force with the joystick. Cable routing with less bends? Luck of the draw? Some resistance in the valve block that can be adjusted? I've never seen a valve block "adjustment" for pull or push force though. Last thought, while the cables are terrible in design, it's the total slop in the joystick at center/neutral position that takes the cake. The slop is NOT in the cables really, but more in the joystick connections at the base. So the first inch of movement nets nothing.
I've had both the 4066R and currently have a 3046R with cab. I went to the 3 series because I couldn't get a mid shaft PTO for front end snowblower on a 4R. What I've noticed is the the 180 degree turn in the cables on the 3R cab has a smaller radius than the 4R cab series which would likely be some of the issue.@@tylerstanley7775
Thanks for this detailed comparison. Having had a 3 Series OS and now a 4R Deluxe Cab I didn't realize there were so many differences. I will say I've never been disappointed in either machine. Both have been a joy to operate.
Great video. Going to 4R you Also loose mid PTO and that is why I stayed with 3046R cab so I could use a snowblower inside a warm cab. Snowblowers in rear kills a neck and having a rear hydro system with a bunch of hoses going all the way up from is a pain. I guess it all depends on what application is important to the owner
I love my 3046r open station. A cab would be nice but I'm doing a wide range of work from mowing, driveway maintenance to brush clearing and a cab probably would have been destroyed working around all the trees. great informative video.
I love my 3r with a cab. Way more positives than negatives. Especially living up north. The weather isn’t always ideal, but with the cab I’m always comfortable!
I had a 75hp cab that I loved, but I do some work on parts of my property that are wooded and the cab was insufficient. I sold it and bought a Deere 5045e open cab 4wd. Love it!!
I love my 3046R cab. Even though now that you bring up some differences I do agree with the harder controls. However, in a blinding snowstorm running a snowblower I'm quite content to sit in a heated and DRY cab, wearing only a sweatshirt or light coat. Can't beat the AC in the summer either. I'm only 5'-9" and have the cab seat all the way back to seem to have enough leg room. I ask the question that is some of the instability only perceived in the cab because it's higher? I don't seem to be bothered by the tippy feeling of the cab or that, I'm just too dumb or have too much pucker power to notice/care.
Thank you so much for addressing the issues with the JD cabbed compact tractors. Everything you've shown and have proven in the video, I have found to be true on my new 3046R with cab. The hydraulic control is terrible on these machines. So disappointed in my tractor's loader and rock shaft control. I've contemplated trying to put in an electric over hydraulic proportional hydraulic valve in for the loader control but they are very expensive and this tractor is already ridiculously expensive.
I own a 3046R Deluxe Cab I believe its 2020 & our farm owns a 2021 4066R w/ Deluxe Cab. Both have cable joysticks, Both work great, Very smooth, not hard at all to push or pull or run sideways on the joystick. The handle controls for the three point hitches are different on both units, but both work smooth. We use the 4066R with a large Titan Grapple, The controls in the cab work great. I have always been John Deere fan & customer. And very happy with both these units. Thanks for all you show us.
Glad to hear that. I have operated 15 or more 3R tractors. Never had one with light controls. Strike that…I did drive one a couple of weeks ago that was reasonable in that regard, but it still had lots of slop. I’m happy to hear that yours works well!
This has been a very informative video. I am actually looking at the 3 Series and was trying to figure out what the differences were between the cab and open versions. Thanks!
Interesting info and comparisons of the nuances of different modelsl. They do have their own “personalities”. Thanks for sharing, and also a shout out to Ken. Blessings.
Good video Tim and Kenny! I took some time to gather my thoughts before commenting, and possibly letting the dust settle. As I said in my review video, to the FEL controls, while it leaves a LOT to be desired, I haven't had any trouble operating my FEL smoothly. It is definitely more stiff than my lever direct tractors of the past, but I don't find it to be troublesome to operate. As for the rockshaft, from my experience the entire thing needs to be fine tuned to make everything work properly. I don't feel that this should be on the owner to make the necessary adjustments, but that has been the case. The overall range of motion is significantly less than it was on my 2038R. I had almost 6" of free travel when my 3 point was fully raised, I adjusted that with the feedback rod to within 1/2-3/4" from the top. Then onto the rockshaft valve, once that was adjusted I was able to adjust my lift links and all has been good. Because of the geometry of the 3 point hitch you don't lose as much in the raised position as you gain in the lowered position when extending the lift links. I didn't use my scale before I made the adjustments to the friction washer on the rockshaft lever, but taking a shot in the dark, mine was likely between 20-25 lbs of pulling force. I used my digital scale to adjust the friction, now I'm at 6 lbs lowering and just a hair over 8 lbs raising. I went and did a small box blade project yesterday, a world of difference was made by adjusting the friction washer on the lever. I've sat on so many tractors over the years I couldn't possibly come up with a number, but I knew one thing was certain, I would never own an open station 3R. It has the worst seating position and ergonomics of any in the lineup. I will take the comfort of the cab and a sloppy joystick over being less than comfortable any day of the week.
Great comment, Pat. I hope folks realize that we are not trying to ‘choose sides’ on the cab vs open station 3R. I have both! Further, I hope we illustrated how the seating position feels different for different sized folks. I think one can see it visually. Christy and Ken look quite awkward on the open station, and it fits me quite well. The cab is just the opposite. That is the purpose of our videos. Trying to bring some of these differences to light. Provide prospective buyers as much info as possible so that they know what they are getting, and can make wise decisions. The 2032/2038r has wonderful ergonomics, so Deere CAN get it right…for a wide range of body sizes. …would be nice to see that same thought put into the 3 and 4 series. Yes, we should have mentioned the adjustable 3 point lever…but we had so much on our minds trying to produce a video that could help to visualize and quantify the differences. It is VERY hard to remember everything.
@@TractorTimewithTim this is why I said I had to let the dust settle. I've spoken with Kenny and yes, I know how difficult it is to remember everything. I've forgotten something that I felt was a key in every review/comparison video, it's nearly impossible without making an hour long video to mention everything. But if you watch my 3039R review video you echoed several points that I made about my tractor, the main one being the rockshaft lever and the second one being the operator's station. At any rate, I did think twice. I only wish I'd have bought the 3R cab the first time I thought about it, but I had to try out that awesome 2038R.
I loved my 2020 33R power reverser OS tractor. The controls feel so much better than on my 2025R. The 25R just doesn’t have the build quality and smooth feeling my 33R had. The biggest concern I had with my 33R was lack of weight on the rear of the tractor. The combination of the aluminum rear end and lifting ability of the loader made it very uneasy until I added rim guard and a ballast box. After adding rim guard the tipping feeling side to side was also almost completely gone. Great video guy’s!
Yep. The 3R is LOTS more tractor than the 2025r. …and no insult intended to the 2025r. Just dramatically more machine in the 3R, and yes, light in the rear end.
Great video. I surely like these comparison videos. Cables are not solid like a rod. So your increasing load with a cable movement. And in winter the cables could freeze. That would be frustrating. Just some thoughts I had.
I'm about to buy a 3R cab tractor (in a year or so) mostly for snow operation and lawn mowing. A friend of mine does joystick convertions (from cables to electronic) it is not cheap, but it's doable. We've found a 8 fonctions joystick, suitable for a 3 fonctions loader and 3 rear remotes.
@@kdeckster the basic idea is to replace the manual valve body by an electronic one, then build the controls and wiring from scratch. One may search for a long time in parts catalog with the hope to find something that will fit and fulfill the need. So it is not an easy DIY, not a plug and play kit, it's custom made but might be a fun project to an electromechanical technician.
I too am interested. The controls get expensive because you need to find proportional electric over hydraulic valves and combine that to a joystick and get it mounted and plumbed in a very tight space.
Great video guys! Having a 2019 cab and a new 2024 cab, along with a 2022 OSS, air seat on all 3. I think the seat is terrible on the OSS, felt like I was setting down in a hole with the standard spring seat base. I upgraded to an air seat first to solve that problem for the most part. Did the same one as you mentioned with the fore/aft feature. I have a thread on GTT that goes into detail on how to upgrade the OSS seat, I now have a nice thick 2 piece padded premium seat with armrest on my OSS. The new premium seat on the OSS was a really nice upgrade, which I think would help Christy. I think you would enjoy it too. Been experimenting a lot with different tire combinations on my 3Rs. Max tire height on the cab is 47”, I mention that because you can also see the height differences in the fenders as well, you can’t run as tall a tire on the OOS.
The cables are pretty sealed, so no real way to lube them. Plus, you run the risk of attracting dirt and causing other issues. I believe the difference is in the way they are routed between the 3 and 4 series is the major difference-found that out after the vide was produced.
I only wish you had access to a TYM T474C shuttle shift like mine, I think you would be pleasantly surprised, perhaps even to the point of starting a second TH-cam channel called Tractor Time with TYM .... Interesting difference, TYM calls the T474 a series 2 while the specs are head to head with the Deere 3r series.
I don't have a garage and was thinking of getting the open 3r tractor because I have a 20' storage container. If you lower the roll-over bar, I think it will fit.
Regarding being more tipsy. What about the wheel base. A narrow wheel base would be more tipsy. Wonderful you both are so knowledgeable about the tractors. Suspect the average salesman will not have have that knowledge.
I own a 2019 4044R open station and a 2023 4044R cab. I notice no difference in any of the controls. The big difference is the cab has 2 steps getting in to the cab, the location of the battery on the cab is on RH side below the door, very accessible, and the seat on the open station will swivel to the left cab does not move, and the lock on loader controls are different, and there is a storage box under the steering column on open station and cab has no storage. I mow with the cab tractor and run a rotary tiller on open. Both tractors are a joy to operate and the biggest difference is obviously the ac and heat.
I know I am way late to watch and comment. Did you happen to measure the force it takes to get the joystick into the float position? I have a 3039R OS and I like the feel of the joystick but that breaking point of getting into float mode is unsettling. I use that frequently when running my front mount snowblower.
Great video guys (and gal). We all wrestle with the cab or open station in our heads for days, right after we just got done wrestling "what brand?", which was proceeded by "tractor or skid steer?". One comment though ...... I hope you guys were opening the doors and/or windows periodically for fresh air. For the time you ran the engines in there with the door closed, I was ready to call the paramedics. I'm not a "Safety Sally", but I don't want anybody getting poisoned though either. Just after a minute of running my 1025R in my shop (just a bit smaller than your garage), it's bad. Enough of that, I purposely have the open station 1025R and cabbed 5075E for obvious reasons. Right there in the middle (3 series) would be the hardest to decide, especially if it was my only tractor. It would be hard even if I added one to my arsenal (not to mention most implements from neither tractor would match very well).
Interesting comparison. I see you have both wheel weights and Rimguard. When I ordered my 3046r last year I was not allowed to have both as they said John Deere would cancel warranty. I have just Rimguard. Unfortunately there is only 1 dealer that has all the dealerships in and around Utah so I am stuck dealing with them.
The forward and reverse peals need to be position closer to the steering wheel on the 4R and 3R cab tractors. I can't speak for the open station models because I haven't used them. I can't rotate my foot on its heal to reach the reverse pedal. I have to move my entire leg farther to the right and mold it up against and kinda around the console to reach the reverse pedal with my foot, which is very uncomfortable for me. I have to sit in the seat at an angle for me to somewhat comfortably reach the reverse pedal. For reference I'm 6'4" and 265lbs. All great points TTWT!
Curious if you tested old salty’s cabled hydraulic and rock shaft controls. My 2024 joystick was crazy stiff but no play in it the day I picked it up. In only a few hours, maybe minutes of use, that joystick loosed up, and is noticeably easier to use now, it now has similar slop and easier pull similar now to my 500 hour 2019 cab 3046, the 2024 now only has 10-11 hours on it.
Tim very enjoyable video. It’s always nice when you and Ken get together and do a video. It looks like you guys have a lot of fun doing them . Great comparison of the two tractors. I would have never expected that many differences. Thanks
LoL... My daughter works for a company up in Southbend that sells Heavy materials for Road construction. She operates front loaders and lifts. She has the same issue as your wife. Being small she couldn't satisfy the seat switch to start one of the loaders. She figured that out when she called the service guy to come see why it wouldn't start. He jumped in and it fired right up. She tried again and it wouldn't. Service guy was scratching his head when the light bulb turned on and he went AAHHHhhhh, here's your problem... 🤣
Tim, I have a 1025r and live in the snow belt. I'm planning on getting my tractor ready for winter soon. What kind of additive should I put into my fuel to prevent it from turning to jelly?
Interesting! Many key points that are never talked about! When Ken was talking about the rockshaft lever I started thinking about a scenario or implement that would require both PTO's running... Any idea's to anyone reading this? Of all the years of tractor ownership I've never used that PTO selection. Maybe snow blow your yard and cut the grass at the same time? LOL
In south Louisiana a cab is the way to go for me. A/C and a way to keep gigantic bugs we have here away from me is a must. There’s lots of people here with open stations but cabs the way to go. And Tim, I’ve been looking for a decent mulching head for my Cat 304 and this company “Deleks” has chuck norris hocking their stuff but anyhow they are relatively inexpensive, made in Germany and that’s all I know. Heard of em? If so any feedback? Ditches down here are extremely huge, some 8’-10’ deep (we get a lil rain at times) and some people, not a a lot, still use chemicals. I DO NOT LIKE THAT. All the water ends up in our beautiful bayous and it’s gotta impact it in some way. You can’t throw a rock here without hitting a body of water, I just think it a more responsible to cut it, not spray. Soap box time over, so do you know the brand/company? Never heard of em til ol chuck showed up in a ad the other day. I’m sure his weeds are much too frightened to attempt to grow and get outta line, but I’m mortal.
Hey Tim the other problem I have found with cables on my 6200 is over time if the cables are not be used very often dirt and dust can get into the cables and they seize up over long periods of time.
Hello Tim and Ken and can’t forget Christy !! I keep thinking I’m going to do a 1-year review on my 3039R deluxe cab in fact I added EVERY OPTION John Deere offered and of course added some super cool options that John Deere doesn’t offer ! Like a swivel seat and yes thanks Ken for the right side door SHOCK ! For a tractor that costs as much as a new corvette you think John Deere would do a better job ?? Especially when you have been building the best tractor in the world right ?? So you guys are all about facts ? I’ll add 10 or 12 more !! Lol First of all if you buy a 3R cab or open station to mow with any get the fancy drive over mid mount mower John Deere says nothing about the TIRE SIZE for mowing ! If you opt for to smallest size wheels and tire R-4 or whatever tread pattern Size does matter !!!! With the smaller size wheels and tires with the mower all the way up , yes it comes up to the step that’s it ! the clearance is 3-inches from the ground to the bottom of the mower! Some people mow at 3-inch high !! You will drag and hit everything on the mower with such little clearance! If you go with the larger tire size you get 6-inches of clearance !!!! I have TWO brand new sets of John Deere wheel and tires ! R-4’s and Galaxy Garden Pro XTD a hybrid tire and they are radials they are the smallest size 19.5 If anyone wants them hit me up ! So I found out why wheel spacers ? If John Deere used the 4R wheels you get 3.1/4 inch on each wheel and it work fine with the mid mount mower !! So NO wheel spacers just different wheels yes they are wider and yes you for sure want the wider wheels or wheel spacers ! My 4R wheels and I put the 43x16x20 to get the highest clearance 6-INCHES from the bottom of my mower now !!!! Thanks for telling everyone about this JOHN DEERE ! Don’t flip the front wheels !!!! Keep them on the narrow or closest side TWO reasons ! One the 3-R turns so sharp even with out braking! They turn almost on a dime !! Best on the planet ! You will hit the mower adjustment height control lever ? What ever it’s called and the hydraulic hoses as well ! But most important lifting heavy loads with your loader!! Not good on the front axle !! Why over stress your axle when you know you use that loader for everything !! Pallet forks and bucket work ! I even have a grapple and love it !! I added a electric fan for those HOT days 90’s plus ! The A/C will freeze you out !! Had to move the vents off the windows it was fogging them up with so much ice cold air !! Did you and you neighbor try something to make you a/c work better ? It was so easy to add you think John Deere would think of things like this ? They have improved every cab EXCEPT THE 3&4 R series! Yes same cab on both just old and outdated !! I think it’s 15 or so on the same cab ? Changed the handle to get in from the inside too the outside a couple other small changes like adding holders for BS etc !! Let me know if anyone wants these brand new wheels and tires ? Good day gents !
@@TractorTimewithTim 43-16x20 on the rear and 15’s on the front ! John Deere offers the Galaxy Garden, Pro XTD radial hybrid tire on the 1- series, the 2- series and the 4-series but they do not offer this tire on the 3-series John Deere tractors Tim, they also offer a self leveling loader as well on the 1 the 2 and 4 series tractors but not the 3 series !!!!!!! This soft radio higher is much better than the ER for bias, hard as a rock tire ! And yes, they are fours have their purpose. They’re great on skid loaders industrial areas but not for yard work or in the winter on ice and snow. So you definitely have some pull with John Deere since you have two brand new tractor sitting on your farm to test out!! why don’t you ask John Deere why they left the 3-series out a very important options especially the self leveling loader ?? And the great tires by Galaxy ?? John Deere did replace the valve on my 3R series because it was leaking down so bad it was not the cylinders it was leaking thru the valve it’s a cheap cheap valve from China that has NO O-rings in it. The valve system on 4- series is heavier and it does have O-rings and does not leak down like the cheaper 3- series does !! Let everyone know please and thank you !!
I had a Deere 4320 with a cab. The pulling force on the loader joystick was way too high. I greased the mechanism, and the joystick became much better. So, I don't think the hard pull of the joystick has to be permanent.
My 3R cab 3-point (200hr) is like butter. The loader controls suck for fine adjustments (Pallet work I often use 2 hands for small curl/dump moves. Yes,at idle). For larger movements it’s ok. Still nowhere near as smooth as my Kubota (Mechanical linkage)
I really wish you had measured on his last point of height of the cab vs the ROPS, even mother deere doesn't seem to know how tall the 3R cab or 4R cab are.
The Loader Joystick in my 3720 Cab was awesome… ( I must have had a much better valve in that early model as well. It was fully capable of blending multi functions)…. The Loader Joystick in my newer 3046R CAB…. IS STIFF AS NAILS, I’m used to it…. But it is far inferior to the joystick and valve on my 3720 Cab )
Sorry to comment here, i did not see a place on the website to leave comment. Could you please make shirts available with other color tractors? Not everyone has green or orange tractors . Thank you
the rockshaft on my 2000 hour 4700 is less than a pound. I am sometimes afraid it will move on it's own it is so loose. I think the action is great, but I didn't check that.
Oh, I also noticed your summit rear scv kit on your 3046R OOS. That was a bear of an install on my OOS 3R, would love to see or hear more about how your install went.
@@TractorTimewithTim Most of the problems were related to the PB kits, Deere dealer ordered the wrong kit, returned it and then I ordered the summit PB kit, some of the summit parts were not the correct size or thread type to screw onto the tractor. Then found out there was in fact a different Deere PB kit that was the correct kit for my machine, ordered it. Used most of correct Deere kit and a few parts from the Summit PB kit to get it all setup and working nicely. I went with the 3 spool summit kit and utilized the the 3 OEM knock out locations on the right fender for my controls. The 3 spool kit was a tight fit on the ROPS under the light pod I imagine squeezing your 4 spool had to been a little bit of a challenge. There is thread on GTT with pics of some of the problems, later had another GTT member PM me fighting the same wrong fitting issues with summit PB kit. He too had the 4 spool and was really struggling trying find room on the rops to mount it, and he was fighting a few other issues with hose and harness lengths.
I would be curious to know if those measurements were typical to all 3R cab tractors or unique to the one you have? Cabs are raised above the frame and controls cabled for noise isolation.
What makes no sense to me is the rear housing being aluminum. That’s a huge turn off from John Deere itself. I have repaired a couple customers from being cracked. You want all the weight you can get in the rear end.
105 degrees all this summer in Austin for me equals accept the limitations to get the AC. Begs the question of mechanical vs electronic controls and design engineering for quality and ease of operation. Increase complexity means using a mainline brand and using a version built for a cab.
@@petenolte4192yep. I enjoy the cab too. We just want folks to be aware of the trade offs. That is what we do here. Try to inform so that folks can make the best decision.
Good morning Mr. Tim I have a 2520 tractor and every year I need to put a couple of drops of oil in every movin joint like throttle, 3pt linkages and wat not to keep them from being so still to move I'm thinkin sumpin in that cab 3r tractor needs lube in the dash maybe?
I have a 3R cab. I think another thing you would lose, other than your wallet by going to a 4R cab, is the mid mower deck if I remember right. Am I right on that? I agree with you on the top heavy. I have an angle gauge on there and I refuse to take mine past 15 deg. I run a 900 lb ballast box on the back that I keep in low position and I also have wheel spacers. I got the widest ones I could get without hitting my mid cutting deck.
We have had 2 cabbed 3046r’s, a 2019 and 2022. The loader joystick is controls is unbearable. I never thought I’d say this but we’ve been looking at Kubotas LX4020’s because of it
@@TractorTimewithTim thanks for the advice, is there a reason you don’t like the LX? Reason I’m asking is I don’t think the bigger models will fit in my shop
@@TractorTimewithTim I’ve considered the 2038r. Neighbor has a 2021 one for sale with 80 hrs . 4 in 1 front bucket, 3rd function, backhoe. 36k. No cab tho. Prefer a cab.
I thought about a deere for ten seconds the ability to lift the bucket and tilt simultaneously is crucial for me I heard the deere wouldn’t do this. I also prefer a gear drive. Then I found out yanmar made the engine. Went with a kubota and it will probably dig my grave. never looked back!
3E turning radius is very poor. Sorry. Identical to 2R. We have video comparing 2R to 3R. Least Glamorous Spec? Still VERY Important! Deere 3046R vs. 2038R vs. Kubota LX3310!! th-cam.com/video/x3qXSf52O8c/w-d-xo.html
Fair enough! Lots of our videos are desirable for 1025r owners even if they don’t show a 1025r…but this one really doesn’t apply unless you might have interest in a 3R at some point.
I like my OOS ❤ On and off constantly, and spot spray too much from the seat. Cab seems in the way to me. Cute though! I wish they both had right side entry.
@@garymeyer3294don’t pay any attention to the stated turning radius specs. We have found them to be inaccurate. Do you have a DK4510? Are you close to me?
@TractorTimewithTim Not close. Don't have one. Going by manufacturer's specs. You'll have to tell your friends at JD that they're specs are all wacky. If the 3046R isn't 9.2 ft., then what is it?
From a science point of view, this is not a reliable test because of the small sample size. For some reason, one tractor might be an outlier either in the good of bad direction. Hard to say
Yes. We get that. However, we have lots of experience with these tractors. We have all anecdotally known that the joystick is incredibly stiff on these 3R tractors. Otherwise we would not have tested. There is no way for us to test hundreds of these.
Yes. However, the general point of the joystick being stiff is well known, and generally agreed upon. We wanted to put some numbers to quantify the difference. Do you think this wasn’t helpful? Remember, there is no bias on our part. Not trying to convince folks either way. Just trying to provide info. I have one each…open and cab.
With experience on many more ...prompting this test. How are we supposed to test thousands? The cab 3R version has less than 5 hours on it. Prepped straight from the factory, KNOWING that there would be testing of this sort done on it. If EVER a machine to make "better than spec", this would have been the chance. BTW, is your experience different?
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I sure hope Deere watches this video. The 3r open has the worst ergonomics of all the series. My wife had the same problem as your wife. She couldn't reach the pedals. The loader slop was excessive too. The 3r cab rockshaft and loader joystick were horrible. Again..my wife has a bad shoulder and had a difficult time using the loader. It's very stiff. It's hard to do precision work with the cab loader. We went from a 2038 (which was great, but didn't have the loader capacity that we needed), to a 3039r cab, then open 3039, then ended up with an open 4R and couldn't be happier. Listen up Deere!!
This experience is right on with our experience.
When I was tractor shopping I was very disappointed with the premium compact Deeres joystick responsiveness. The 3025e had much better joystick responsiveness.
Get your wife a hand shovel.
Enlightening video! It was really nice to be able to have all these machines together in one place to 'play' with.
You can adjust the rockshaft “pulling force” by adjusting the 17mm bolt on the side of the trans case where the rockshaft control goes in. So mine from the factory was terribly tight, but after some adjustment of the nut it’s butter smooth. So it’s kinda hard to validate that result.
My dad said the dealer came out to do the same to his 4052R, it was terribly hard before they did that, but he forgot all about it until we read your comment.
This.
For anyone reading this and want to adjust.... On a cabbed 3R, the nut is just above the valve block for the loader and a little further in on the trans case. Follow the cable for the three point coming out of the cab to the shaft. You will want to loosen the nut some, but if you loosen too much then your shaft lever will not stay in place and always start to drift down when you hit bumps, or even worse if too lose. Have to find that fine line between too tight and too lose. Once you get that sweet spot I find it just as easy as my 2038R. The next question should be why the massive difference in the 4R and 3R cabbed force with the joystick. Cable routing with less bends? Luck of the draw? Some resistance in the valve block that can be adjusted? I've never seen a valve block "adjustment" for pull or push force though. Last thought, while the cables are terrible in design, it's the total slop in the joystick at center/neutral position that takes the cake. The slop is NOT in the cables really, but more in the joystick connections at the base. So the first inch of movement nets nothing.
I've had both the 4066R and currently have a 3046R with cab. I went to the 3 series because I couldn't get a mid shaft PTO for front end snowblower on a 4R. What I've noticed is the the 180 degree turn in the cables on the 3R cab has a smaller radius than the 4R cab series which would likely be some of the issue.@@tylerstanley7775
Thanks for this detailed comparison. Having had a 3 Series OS and now a 4R Deluxe Cab I didn't realize there were so many differences. I will say I've never been disappointed in either machine. Both have been a joy to operate.
I've also broken several keys off with my leg! Horrible spot for the key!
Great video. Going to 4R you Also loose mid PTO and that is why I stayed with 3046R cab so I could use a snowblower inside a warm cab. Snowblowers in rear kills a neck and having a rear hydro system with a bunch of hoses going all the way up from is a pain. I guess it all depends on what application is important to the owner
Yep! That is always the case, right?
I love my 3046r open station. A cab would be nice but I'm doing a wide range of work from mowing, driveway maintenance to brush clearing and a cab probably would have been destroyed working around all the trees. great informative video.
I love my 3r with a cab. Way more positives than negatives. Especially living up north. The weather isn’t always ideal, but with the cab I’m always comfortable!
I had a 75hp cab that I loved, but I do some work on parts of my property that are wooded and the cab was insufficient. I sold it and bought a Deere 5045e open cab 4wd. Love it!!
This is the main reason I couldn’t have a compact tractor with a cab, I’d ruin it running around in the woods.
I love my 3046R cab. Even though now that you bring up some differences I do agree with the harder controls. However, in a blinding snowstorm running a snowblower I'm quite content to sit in a heated and DRY cab, wearing only a sweatshirt or light coat. Can't beat the AC in the summer either. I'm only 5'-9" and have the cab seat all the way back to seem to have enough leg room. I ask the question that is some of the instability only perceived in the cab because it's higher? I don't seem to be bothered by the tippy feeling of the cab or that, I'm just too dumb or have too much pucker power to notice/care.
Right. The cab is incredible!
We just want to point out the differences so that folks are fully aware of the trade offs.
Thank you so much for addressing the issues with the JD cabbed compact tractors. Everything you've shown and have proven in the video, I have found to be true on my new 3046R with cab. The hydraulic control is terrible on these machines. So disappointed in my tractor's loader and rock shaft control. I've contemplated trying to put in an electric over hydraulic proportional hydraulic valve in for the loader control but they are very expensive and this tractor is already ridiculously expensive.
I went from a 1025R to an OS 3039R, I absolutely love it and like you said - the tight turning radius of the 3R is incredible.
If you live here in Canada....you truly want a cab in the winter.😊
I know what you mean because I'm in Alaska.
I own a 3046R Deluxe Cab I believe its 2020 & our farm owns a 2021 4066R w/ Deluxe Cab. Both have cable joysticks, Both work great, Very smooth, not hard at all to push or pull or run sideways on the joystick. The handle controls for the three point hitches are different on both units, but both work smooth. We use the 4066R with a large Titan Grapple, The controls in the cab work great. I have always been John Deere fan & customer. And very happy with both these units. Thanks for all you show us.
Glad to hear that. I have operated 15 or more 3R tractors. Never had one with light controls.
Strike that…I did drive one a couple of weeks ago that was reasonable in that regard, but it still had lots of slop.
I’m happy to hear that yours works well!
Been looking for a 3-4 series cab machine for a while. Great content and keep it coming. Makes the buying decision process easier!
I went from OS to cab and could not get rid of the cab tractor quick enough. Your observations are dead on. Great job!!!!
This has been a very informative video. I am actually looking at the 3 Series and was trying to figure out what the differences were between the cab and open versions. Thanks!
Interesting info and comparisons of the nuances of different modelsl. They do have their own “personalities”. Thanks for sharing, and also a shout out to Ken. Blessings.
Good video Tim and Kenny!
I took some time to gather my thoughts before commenting, and possibly letting the dust settle.
As I said in my review video, to the FEL controls, while it leaves a LOT to be desired, I haven't had any trouble operating my FEL smoothly. It is definitely more stiff than my lever direct tractors of the past, but I don't find it to be troublesome to operate.
As for the rockshaft, from my experience the entire thing needs to be fine tuned to make everything work properly. I don't feel that this should be on the owner to make the necessary adjustments, but that has been the case. The overall range of motion is significantly less than it was on my 2038R. I had almost 6" of free travel when my 3 point was fully raised, I adjusted that with the feedback rod to within 1/2-3/4" from the top. Then onto the rockshaft valve, once that was adjusted I was able to adjust my lift links and all has been good. Because of the geometry of the 3 point hitch you don't lose as much in the raised position as you gain in the lowered position when extending the lift links.
I didn't use my scale before I made the adjustments to the friction washer on the rockshaft lever, but taking a shot in the dark, mine was likely between 20-25 lbs of pulling force. I used my digital scale to adjust the friction, now I'm at 6 lbs lowering and just a hair over 8 lbs raising. I went and did a small box blade project yesterday, a world of difference was made by adjusting the friction washer on the lever.
I've sat on so many tractors over the years I couldn't possibly come up with a number, but I knew one thing was certain, I would never own an open station 3R. It has the worst seating position and ergonomics of any in the lineup. I will take the comfort of the cab and a sloppy joystick over being less than comfortable any day of the week.
Great comment, Pat.
I hope folks realize that we are not trying to ‘choose sides’ on the cab vs open station 3R. I have both!
Further, I hope we illustrated how the seating position feels different for different sized folks. I think one can see it visually. Christy and Ken look quite awkward on the open station, and it fits me quite well. The cab is just the opposite.
That is the purpose of our videos. Trying to bring some of these differences to light. Provide prospective buyers as much info as possible so that they know what they are getting, and can make wise decisions.
The 2032/2038r has wonderful ergonomics, so Deere CAN get it right…for a wide range of body sizes. …would be nice to see that same thought put into the 3 and 4 series.
Yes, we should have mentioned the adjustable 3 point lever…but we had so much on our minds trying to produce a video that could help to visualize and quantify the differences. It is VERY hard to remember everything.
@@TractorTimewithTim this is why I said I had to let the dust settle. I've spoken with Kenny and yes, I know how difficult it is to remember everything. I've forgotten something that I felt was a key in every review/comparison video, it's nearly impossible without making an hour long video to mention everything. But if you watch my 3039R review video you echoed several points that I made about my tractor, the main one being the rockshaft lever and the second one being the operator's station. At any rate, I did think twice. I only wish I'd have bought the 3R cab the first time I thought about it, but I had to try out that awesome 2038R.
I loved my 2020 33R power reverser OS tractor. The controls feel so much better than on my 2025R. The 25R just doesn’t have the build quality and smooth feeling my 33R had. The biggest concern I had with my 33R was lack of weight on the rear of the tractor. The combination of the aluminum rear end and lifting ability of the loader made it very uneasy until I added rim guard and a ballast box. After adding rim guard the tipping feeling side to side was also almost completely gone.
Great video guy’s!
Yep. The 3R is LOTS more tractor than the 2025r. …and no insult intended to the 2025r. Just dramatically more machine in the 3R, and yes, light in the rear end.
Great video. I surely like these comparison videos.
Cables are not solid like a rod. So your increasing load with a cable movement.
And in winter the cables could freeze. That would be frustrating.
Just some thoughts I had.
I'm about to buy a 3R cab tractor (in a year or so) mostly for snow operation and lawn mowing. A friend of mine does joystick convertions (from cables to electronic) it is not cheap, but it's doable. We've found a 8 fonctions joystick, suitable for a 3 fonctions loader and 3 rear remotes.
Would be interested in talking with him.
YES! Would love to know more about this!
@@kdeckster the basic idea is to replace the manual valve body by an electronic one, then build the controls and wiring from scratch. One may search for a long time in parts catalog with the hope to find something that will fit and fulfill the need. So it is not an easy DIY, not a plug and play kit, it's custom made but might be a fun project to an electromechanical technician.
I am also very interested in a joystick conversion for my 3039R cab tractor.
I too am interested. The controls get expensive because you need to find proportional electric over hydraulic valves and combine that to a joystick and get it mounted and plumbed in a very tight space.
Great video guys!
Having a 2019 cab and a new 2024 cab, along with a 2022 OSS, air seat on all 3.
I think the seat is terrible on the OSS, felt like I was setting down in a hole with the standard spring seat base.
I upgraded to an air seat first to solve that problem for the most part. Did the same one as you mentioned with the fore/aft feature.
I have a thread on GTT that goes into detail on how to upgrade the OSS seat, I now have a nice thick 2 piece padded premium seat with armrest on my OSS.
The new premium seat on the OSS was a really nice upgrade, which I think would help Christy. I think you would enjoy it too.
Been experimenting a lot with different tire combinations on my 3Rs. Max tire height on the cab is 47”, I mention that because you can also see the height differences in the fenders as well, you can’t run as tall a tire on the OOS.
Just grabbed an old cab 3320 thanks Tim!
There are some reasons to have an open station. I'm at the point in life living north country I'll never own a tractor without a cab again.
On the cable controls, I wonder if lubrication of those various cables could make a lot of difference.
The cables are pretty sealed, so no real way to lube them. Plus, you run the risk of attracting dirt and causing other issues. I believe the difference is in the way they are routed between the 3 and 4 series is the major difference-found that out after the vide was produced.
I only wish you had access to a TYM T474C shuttle shift like mine, I think you would be pleasantly surprised, perhaps even to the point of starting a second TH-cam channel called Tractor Time with TYM .... Interesting difference, TYM calls the T474 a series 2 while the specs are head to head with the Deere 3r series.
Maybe just ‘Tractor TYM with Tim’?
I have the 3039R cab for here in WA. It’s a must for the random weather. Love it
I don't have a garage and was thinking of getting the open 3r tractor because I have a 20' storage container. If you lower the roll-over bar, I think it will fit.
your wife sounds like the guy at the auction that yells YEP! and points at the bid
I recently purchased a new 3038e w/ a 300e loader and am really happy with it- big move up from a 755- but still keeping the 755 for mowing
Is it really a big upgrade form 755? That would be interesting to hear detailed comparison.
Regarding being more tipsy. What about the wheel base. A narrow wheel base would be more tipsy. Wonderful you both are so knowledgeable about the tractors. Suspect the average salesman will not have have that knowledge.
I have a 3r cab, I don’t feel like the 3pt lever moves that hard. I wonder if it could be as simple as how tight the nut is that holds the lever on, 🤔
Most are stiff. I operated one a few weeks ago that wasn’t quite as stiff. So, there may be some adjustment.
I own a 2019 4044R open station and a 2023 4044R cab. I notice no difference in any of the controls. The big difference is the cab has 2 steps getting in to the cab, the location of the battery on the cab is on RH side below the door, very accessible, and the seat on the open station will swivel to the left cab does not move, and the lock on loader controls are different, and there is a storage box under the steering column on open station and cab has no storage.
I mow with the cab tractor and run a rotary tiller on open. Both tractors are a joy to operate and the biggest difference is obviously the ac and heat.
As you might notice…the 4r joystick performed quite nicely.
I know I am way late to watch and comment. Did you happen to measure the force it takes to get the joystick into the float position? I have a 3039R OS and I like the feel of the joystick but that breaking point of getting into float mode is unsettling. I use that frequently when running my front mount snowblower.
No, sorry.
Great video guys (and gal). We all wrestle with the cab or open station in our heads for days, right after we just got done wrestling "what brand?", which was proceeded by "tractor or skid steer?". One comment though ...... I hope you guys were opening the doors and/or windows periodically for fresh air. For the time you ran the engines in there with the door closed, I was ready to call the paramedics. I'm not a "Safety Sally", but I don't want anybody getting poisoned though either. Just after a minute of running my 1025R in my shop (just a bit smaller than your garage), it's bad. Enough of that, I purposely have the open station 1025R and cabbed 5075E for obvious reasons. Right there in the middle (3 series) would be the hardest to decide, especially if it was my only tractor. It would be hard even if I added one to my arsenal (not to mention most implements from neither tractor would match very well).
Interesting comparison. I see you have both wheel weights and Rimguard. When I ordered my 3046r last year I was not allowed to have both as they said John Deere would cancel warranty. I have just Rimguard. Unfortunately there is only 1 dealer that has all the dealerships in and around Utah so I am stuck dealing with them.
The forward and reverse peals need to be position closer to the steering wheel on the 4R and 3R cab tractors. I can't speak for the open station models because I haven't used them. I can't rotate my foot on its heal to reach the reverse pedal. I have to move my entire leg farther to the right and mold it up against and kinda around the console to reach the reverse pedal with my foot, which is very uncomfortable for me. I have to sit in the seat at an angle for me to somewhat comfortably reach the reverse pedal. For reference I'm 6'4" and 265lbs. All great points TTWT!
Curious if you tested old salty’s cabled hydraulic and rock shaft controls.
My 2024 joystick was crazy stiff but no play in it the day I picked it up.
In only a few hours, maybe minutes of use, that joystick loosed up, and is noticeably easier to use now,
it now has similar slop and easier pull similar now to my 500 hour 2019 cab 3046, the 2024 now only has 10-11 hours on it.
Tim very enjoyable video. It’s always nice when you and Ken get together and do a video. It looks like you guys have a lot of fun doing them . Great comparison of the two tractors. I would have never expected that many differences. Thanks
LoL... My daughter works for a company up in Southbend that sells Heavy materials for Road construction. She operates front loaders and lifts. She has the same issue as your wife. Being small she couldn't satisfy the seat switch to start one of the loaders. She figured that out when she called the service guy to come see why it wouldn't start. He jumped in and it fired right up. She tried again and it wouldn't. Service guy was scratching his head when the light bulb turned on and he went AAHHHhhhh, here's your problem... 🤣
The three point hitch control lever is adjustable I had to adjust mine on my 3046R cab version because it was too stiff also but it is adjustable are
Tim, I have a 1025r and live in the snow belt. I'm planning on getting my tractor ready for winter soon. What kind of additive should I put into my fuel to prevent it from turning to jelly?
After watching this. It made me realize how much force it takes to move the levers in my 5065E cab tractor.
Interesting differences in the cab and os tractors and comparison on joystick pulling forces between the tractors.
Interesting! Many key points that are never talked about! When Ken was talking about the rockshaft lever I started thinking about a scenario or implement that would require both PTO's running... Any idea's to anyone reading this? Of all the years of tractor ownership I've never used that PTO selection. Maybe snow blow your yard and cut the grass at the same time? LOL
Material collection system.
@@TractorTimewithTim Ahhh... thanks!
Yep, totally agree.@@TractorTimewithTim
I have a 3 series cab tractor I went from a 1025 I have made the switch over a year a ago and still do not like the loader controls or the foot pedals
In south Louisiana a cab is the way to go for me. A/C and a way to keep gigantic bugs we have here away from me is a must. There’s lots of people here with open stations but cabs the way to go. And Tim, I’ve been looking for a decent mulching head for my Cat 304 and this company “Deleks” has chuck norris hocking their stuff but anyhow they are relatively inexpensive, made in Germany and that’s all I know. Heard of em? If so any feedback? Ditches down here are extremely huge, some 8’-10’ deep (we get a lil rain at times) and some people, not a a lot, still use chemicals. I DO NOT LIKE THAT. All the water ends up in our beautiful bayous and it’s gotta impact it in some way. You can’t throw a rock here without hitting a body of water, I just think it a more responsible to cut it, not spray. Soap box time over, so do you know the brand/company? Never heard of em til ol chuck showed up in a ad the other day. I’m sure his weeds are much too frightened to attempt to grow and get outta line, but I’m mortal.
I came to the same conclusion between the 3R's I much much prefer the OS tractor the the control you have over the hydraulics
I didn't like the long loader joystick on the 3R from an ergonomics standpoint. One of the main reasons i chose my 2038r with the short joystick
2038r has unbeatable ergonomics.
Hey Tim the other problem I have found with cables on my 6200 is over time if the cables are not be used very often dirt and dust can get into the cables and they seize up over long periods of time.
Hello Tim and Ken and can’t forget Christy !!
I keep thinking I’m going to do a 1-year review on my 3039R deluxe cab in fact I added EVERY OPTION John Deere offered and of course added some super cool options that John Deere doesn’t offer !
Like a swivel seat and yes thanks Ken for the right side door SHOCK !
For a tractor that costs as much as a new corvette you think John Deere would do a better job ??
Especially when you have been building the best tractor in the world right ??
So you guys are all about facts ?
I’ll add 10 or 12 more !!
Lol
First of all if you buy a 3R cab or open station to mow with any get the fancy drive over mid mount mower John Deere says nothing about the TIRE SIZE for mowing !
If you opt for to smallest size wheels and tire R-4 or whatever tread pattern
Size does matter !!!!
With the smaller size wheels and tires with the mower all the way up , yes it comes up to the step that’s it !
the clearance is 3-inches from the ground to the bottom of the mower!
Some people mow at 3-inch high !! You will drag and hit everything on the mower with such little clearance!
If you go with the larger tire size you get 6-inches of clearance !!!!
I have TWO brand new sets of John Deere wheel and tires !
R-4’s and Galaxy Garden Pro XTD a hybrid tire and they are radials they are the smallest size 19.5
If anyone wants them hit me up !
So I found out why wheel spacers ?
If John Deere used the 4R wheels you get 3.1/4 inch on each wheel and it work fine with the mid mount mower !!
So NO wheel spacers just different wheels yes they are wider and yes you for sure want the wider wheels or wheel spacers !
My 4R wheels and I put the 43x16x20 to get the highest clearance 6-INCHES from the bottom of my mower now !!!!
Thanks for telling everyone about this JOHN DEERE !
Don’t flip the front wheels !!!!
Keep them on the narrow or closest side TWO reasons !
One the 3-R turns so sharp even with out braking!
They turn almost on a dime !!
Best on the planet !
You will hit the mower adjustment height control lever ? What ever it’s called and the hydraulic hoses as well !
But most important lifting heavy loads with your loader!!
Not good on the front axle !!
Why over stress your axle when you know you use that loader for everything !!
Pallet forks and bucket work !
I even have a grapple and love it !!
I added a electric fan for those HOT days 90’s plus !
The A/C will freeze you out !!
Had to move the vents off the windows it was fogging them up with so much ice cold air !!
Did you and you neighbor try something to make you a/c work better ?
It was so easy to add you think John Deere would think of things like this ?
They have improved every cab EXCEPT THE 3&4 R series!
Yes same cab on both just old and outdated !!
I think it’s 15 or so on the same cab ?
Changed the handle to get in from the inside too the outside a couple other small changes like adding holders for BS etc !!
Let me know if anyone wants these brand new wheels and tires ?
Good day gents !
Ok, so what size tires are you running now?
@@TractorTimewithTim 43-16x20 on the rear and 15’s on the front !
John Deere offers the Galaxy Garden, Pro XTD radial hybrid tire on the 1- series, the 2- series and the 4-series but they do not offer this tire on the 3-series John Deere tractors
Tim, they also offer a self leveling loader as well on the 1 the 2 and 4 series tractors but not the 3 series !!!!!!!
This soft radio higher is much better than the ER for bias, hard as a rock tire !
And yes, they are fours have their purpose. They’re great on skid loaders industrial areas but not for yard work or in the winter on ice and snow.
So you definitely have some pull with John Deere since you have two brand new tractor sitting on your farm to test out!!
why don’t you ask John Deere why they left the 3-series out a very important options especially the self leveling loader ?? And the great tires by Galaxy ??
John Deere did replace the valve on my 3R series because it was leaking down so bad it was not the cylinders it was leaking thru the valve it’s a cheap cheap valve from China that has NO O-rings in it. The valve system on 4- series is heavier and it does have O-rings and does not leak down like the cheaper 3- series does !!
Let everyone know please and thank you !!
Go to a dealership where you can fit both off them (or let them bring both to your place). So many differences in lever positions too.
I had a Deere 4320 with a cab. The pulling force on the loader joystick was way too high. I greased the mechanism, and the joystick became much better. So, I don't think the hard pull of the joystick has to be permanent.
My 3R cab 3-point (200hr) is like butter. The loader controls suck for fine adjustments (Pallet work I often use 2 hands for small curl/dump moves. Yes,at idle). For larger movements it’s ok. Still nowhere near as smooth as my Kubota (Mechanical linkage)
I really wish you had measured on his last point of height of the cab vs the ROPS, even mother deere doesn't seem to know how tall the 3R cab or 4R cab are.
All these dimensions should be available at your local JD dealer or online.
I was thinking of buying a a 3 or 4 series but I still love operating my 1025r.
Me too!
What happened to the Kubota LX3310 haven’t seen it around in the videos lately
You gotta take Cristy to your next auction. She's a ringer to buy something with the quick "yup". 😅
The Loader Joystick in my 3720 Cab was awesome… ( I must have had a much better valve in that early model as well. It was fully capable of blending multi functions)…. The Loader Joystick in my newer 3046R CAB…. IS STIFF AS NAILS, I’m used to it…. But it is far inferior to the joystick and valve on my 3720 Cab )
Interesting!
Sorry to comment here, i did not see a place on the website to leave comment.
Could you please make shirts available with other color tractors? Not everyone has green or orange tractors . Thank you
the rockshaft on my 2000 hour 4700 is less than a pound. I am sometimes afraid it will move on it's own it is so loose. I think the action is great, but I didn't check that.
Oh, I also noticed your summit rear scv kit on your 3046R OOS.
That was a bear of an install on my OOS 3R, would love to see or hear more about how your install went.
Why so hard?
@@TractorTimewithTim Most of the problems were related to the PB kits, Deere dealer ordered the wrong kit, returned it and then I ordered the summit PB kit, some of the summit parts were not the correct size or thread type to screw onto the tractor. Then found out there was in fact a different Deere PB kit that was the correct kit for my machine, ordered it. Used most of correct Deere kit and a few parts from the Summit PB kit to get it all setup and working nicely. I went with the 3 spool summit kit and utilized the the 3 OEM knock out locations on the right fender for my controls. The 3 spool kit was a tight fit on the ROPS under the light pod I imagine squeezing your 4 spool had to been a little bit of a challenge.
There is thread on GTT with pics of some of the problems, later had another GTT member PM me fighting the same wrong fitting issues with summit PB kit. He too had the 4 spool and was really struggling trying find room on the rops to mount it, and he was fighting a few other issues with hose and harness lengths.
Isn’t the rock shaft control resistance adjustable?
I would be curious to know if those measurements were typical to all 3R cab tractors or unique to the one you have?
Cabs are raised above the frame and controls cabled for noise isolation.
Obviously the exact results would vary.
However, the general issue of the controls being stiff is well known.
Great video. LETS GET STARTED
How much different would it be if the hydraulics were under pressure
I’m starting to suspect Christy is an amazing cook so Ken keeps making excuses to visit. 😊
Is there a fix for this? I know there were some 4 series with mid PO for a mower deck. I want a cab.
There are many of these 3R cab tractors out there. The cables are not great, but they are not horrible.
Yes the wheel bace is to short for bucket work.
What makes no sense to me is the rear housing being aluminum. That’s a huge turn off from John Deere itself. I have repaired a couple customers from being cracked. You want all the weight you can get in the rear end.
Agreed. However, it isn’t only Deere. Most of these small compacts are aluminum housings.
It was easy for me in Michigan for blowing and pushing snow.
105 degrees all this summer in Austin for me equals accept the limitations to get the AC. Begs the question of mechanical vs electronic controls and design engineering for quality and ease of operation. Increase complexity means using a mainline brand and using a version built for a cab.
Yep!
Or Minnesota winter with the cold a cab is a must
@@petenolte4192yep. I enjoy the cab too. We just want folks to be aware of the trade offs. That is what we do here. Try to inform so that folks can make the best decision.
Good morning Mr. Tim I have a 2520 tractor and every year I need to put a couple of drops of oil in every movin joint like throttle, 3pt linkages and wat not to keep them from being so still to move I'm thinkin sumpin in that cab 3r tractor needs lube in the dash maybe?
I wonder if I missed it, but what happened to the blue electric tractor?
Still here.
Nice comparison guys.. one question I haven’t seen you use the Kubota 3310. In a while. Do you still have it? Cheers
Still have. Don’t use. Need to sell.
DEERE picked the right color GREEN! it will cost you lots of GREEN! good vidja mr tim
I have a 3R cab. I think another thing you would lose, other than your wallet by going to a 4R cab, is the mid mower deck if I remember right. Am I right on that? I agree with you on the top heavy. I have an angle gauge on there and I refuse to take mine past 15 deg. I run a 900 lb ballast box on the back that I keep in low position and I also have wheel spacers. I got the widest ones I could get without hitting my mid cutting deck.
Yes, 4R loses the mid deck.
We have had 2 cabbed 3046r’s, a 2019 and 2022. The loader joystick is controls is unbearable. I never thought I’d say this but we’ve been looking at Kubotas LX4020’s because of it
Do NOT go with the LX. Look at Grand L instead. L4060 is closest, but doesn’t have the turning radius.
@@TractorTimewithTim thanks for the advice, is there a reason you don’t like the LX? Reason I’m asking is I don’t think the bigger models will fit in my shop
@@dryrunoutdoors no pulling power when compared to 3R. Poor turning radius. Just a MUCH smaller tractor. Deere 2038R would be a better choice.
@@TractorTimewithTim I’ve considered the 2038r. Neighbor has a 2021 one for sale with 80 hrs . 4 in 1 front bucket, 3rd function, backhoe. 36k. No cab tho. Prefer a cab.
I thought about a deere for ten seconds the ability to lift the bucket and tilt simultaneously is crucial for me I heard the deere wouldn’t do this. I also prefer a gear drive. Then I found out yanmar made the engine. Went with a kubota and it will probably dig my grave. never looked back!
The 4r would probably perform better if the hydraulic oil was warm, having the electric over hydraulic valve
3E = WIN Turning radius, 3E WIN center ground clearance. just sayin :) 3E FWD actuator= Suckage..
3E turning radius is very poor. Sorry.
Identical to 2R. We have video comparing 2R to 3R.
Least Glamorous Spec? Still VERY Important! Deere 3046R vs. 2038R vs. Kubota LX3310!!
th-cam.com/video/x3qXSf52O8c/w-d-xo.html
I am sure it was an awesome but I took your advise, a 1025R guy. Catch the next one. Blessings.
Fair enough! Lots of our videos are desirable for 1025r owners even if they don’t show a 1025r…but this one really doesn’t apply unless you might have interest in a 3R at some point.
How high is the stack of $100 bills for the open station vs the cab tractor lol!
Whatever you can afford
No cab for me, restrict my view. My eye glasses frame is enought 😮.
I like my OOS ❤ On and off constantly, and spot spray too much from the seat. Cab seems in the way to me. Cute though! I wish they both had right side entry.
Another informative video!!! GREAT Video!!!! V😮😅🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔🍔👍🙏
stand on open station while movin heavy logs. put them cheeseburgers to work at lower center of gravity
I have a 1735M that has a tight turning radius is the 3R tighter?
Are you close? Let’s have a rodeo! I like what I have seen of the 1835M
He said 45HP tractor.
John Deere 3046R turning radius 9.2 ft.
Kioti DK 4510 turning radius 8.6 ft.
@@garymeyer3294don’t pay any attention to the stated turning radius specs. We have found them to be inaccurate. Do you have a DK4510? Are you close to me?
@TractorTimewithTim Not close. Don't have one. Going by manufacturer's specs. You'll have to tell your friends at JD that they're specs are all wacky. If the 3046R isn't 9.2 ft., then what is it?
From a science point of view, this is not a reliable test because of the small sample size. For some reason, one tractor might be an outlier either in the good of bad direction. Hard to say
Yes. We get that. However, we have lots of experience with these tractors. We have all anecdotally known that the joystick is incredibly stiff on these 3R tractors. Otherwise we would not have tested.
There is no way for us to test hundreds of these.
I only buy cabs due to lighting and yellow jackets.
I would guess you could test two tractors on the lot that are the exact same model and the readings would be different. Just saying
Yes. However, the general point of the joystick being stiff is well known, and generally agreed upon.
We wanted to put some numbers to quantify the difference.
Do you think this wasn’t helpful?
Remember, there is no bias on our part. Not trying to convince folks either way. Just trying to provide info.
I have one each…open and cab.
1 example of each out of thousands built!
With experience on many more ...prompting this test. How are we supposed to test thousands? The cab 3R version has less than 5 hours on it. Prepped straight from the factory, KNOWING that there would be testing of this sort done on it. If EVER a machine to make "better than spec", this would have been the chance.
BTW, is your experience different?
So the reality is don’t buy a three year cab tractor as it’s too hard to operate the controls
halverson hwp-100
Too many TH-cam adds