De nada. Si es posible, quite la cubierta del depósito del embrague y limpie primero el pequeño agujero para la línea de retorno. Es común que esto esté enchufado haciendo que el embrague se pegue. Usa un pequeño trozo de alambre para meterlo en el agujero.
Debería ser un géiser cuando bombees el embrague. Haz esto antes de reemplazar el embrague para asegurarte de que no sea solo la línea de retorno. Espero que esto ayude. Gracias, amigo mío y buena suerte.
@@pilgrimsgarage Yeah these are nice machines. Some of the tech on them is getting really old and it's sometimes harder to find a good guide not to break something.
Thank you. It’s a pretty simple process but one thing I highly recommend is to make sure both holes in the clutch reservoir are cleaned. Use a torch cleaner with a super small wire to clean out the return line (small hole). Many people think the clutch is slipping when what’s really happening is the fluid is not making it back to the reservoir hence they think the clutch is slipping. This bike had that problem which they never found until the clutch was completely shot. Good luck and thank you for the compliment.
@pilgrimsgarage I appreciate the tips, but I think I'll have to replace O-rings and seal for the slave cylinder because I've repeated the process 5 times and still getting air bubbles 🫧 or probably rebuild the clutch entirely! It's a 2000 Suzuki intruder vs800 with 23k but I love it and can't let go 😎 thanks again
@pilgrimsgarage I'd definitely check that video, and if you're thinking of video for how to re-do the entire clutch and covering all details that's would be great! Thanks 👍
Great video! Very clear and straightforward. After reading the comments I'm definitely going to check the ports in the reservoir. Thanks for doing this and I hope your viewership grows. Too bad you dont have more intruder content, it can be hard to find and its getting more necessary for me. I have a 1991 750 that's been in my family since my dad bought it in '92. Love that old girl.
Nice video I just bought a 99 800 with 14000 miles on it. Shift fine and everything when I wromp on it seems like it’s slipping only flored deff going to flush cylinder first and check my holes. First before I order clutch thanks for the video. Keep two wheels down
Yes, totally check those two holes first. I literally had the smallest one spit fluid at me when I did it. This bike had 28,000 miles on it. Thanks for the compliment and happy riding.
@@LearningWithTitus from what I gather, the fluid gets old and maybe breaks down? I’m not sure but when I changed this fluid it resembled chocolate milk. I literally cleaned out the hole (wish I would’ve filmed it) and it spit out at me. I’m not sure how the contamination happened but it did. Maybe poor seals on the master cylinder? From what I’ve experienced it’s pretty common in these Suzukis. That’s the reason I noted it.
@@LearningWithTitus yes take the cover off and you should be able to see it. You have 2 holes. One is for the plunger and the other is a return or relief. Use a very small piece of wire or a torch tip cleaner (you can get these at any parts store…typically $5) and put it in that hole. How you can check if it works is pull the cover off and squeeze the clutch. If you get a little geyser or spurt straight up when you release the clutch then it’s ok. If you don’t then it’s plugged. You do not have to bleed it unless it’s out of fluid.
One more thing I want you to do…when you pull the hydraulic reservoir cap off, use a very small piece of wire or the smallest torch cleaner that the kit has. There is a very small hole in front of the plunger hole that you should run that wire or torch cleaner through. It is the return for the fluid from the Slave cylinder. That has a tendency to plug and give the illusion of a slipping clutch. Just be sure when you release the clutch that you get a small geyser or pressure from that little hole. It will save you some time. Thank you for the compliment.
Nice!!! It’s all good. If you have this kind of Suzuki and are having clutch issues, be sure to read some of the comments. There are things to try before you go that far in depth with the clutch replacement. Thank you for the compliment though…have a great day.
Thank you. It’s a pretty easy install but read some of the comments. Before replacing the clutch, clean out the return hole in the clutch reservoir. It’s all in the comments.
Got to change my clutches on my Suzuki intruder 700 it slips in third when you cracked the throttle open but if you let off it don't do it as much it's actually pretty strong just under acceleration real hard I bought the engine off of eBay it's set on a pallet of 45 years in a warehouse thinking maybe that might be something to do with it
If I wouldn’t have filmed it, it probably would have taken me about an hour and a half. Hardest part was actually removing the gasket from the cover. 20 years made it a bit on the hard side. It was a breeze otherwise.
Honestly these bikes don't need new clutches unless there is very high mileage, over 40k. The issue is the comansating hole in the clutch master cylinder is blocked. Be sure to check that before replacing clutches because it will just start slipping again until that hole is cleared.
Yeah, I’ve put that in many of the comments. I should’ve made a video on that but I didn’t. I do that every time I change a hydraulic clutch or slave cylinder.
@@mikemeets8873 2 things to look for 1st is the little compensating hole in the bottom of the clutch master cylinder. 2nd is the clutch condition and pressure plate springs. If the compensating hole is open and the clutch still slips then pull the cover off and inspect the clutch. If it looks worn and burn replace the clutch AND springs. If the clutch looks fine only replace the springs. I use the EBC replacement springs.
You sure helped me thanks brother. Clear detail how-to. Unlike others I watched. Could you tell me what torque wrench that is you use when tightening down the bolts for the springs. Also what springs would you recommend on a 2000 suzuki intruder vs800gl.
The torque wrench is a tool shop brand. I got it from Harbor Freight. The springs I used came with the kit and they work really well providing a strong grip to the clutch but I think that Partzilla has different sizes. We have about 2200 miles on this clutch and springs now and it’s excellent. Thank you for the compliment I’m glad it helped you out.
Honestly, I think it was just under 4 quarts. You just have the site glass to fill it and once you start it the filter takes about a 1/2 pint. I think you’re correct though…I think I may not have said how much. Sorry about that
No stress, common sense tells you to refill oil but some first timer will start the bike up with no oil 🤣... wait... first timers would not make it that far anyways 🙈
Yes it’s almost identical other than the exhaust supports and your clutch has 8 bolts versus 4 on this one. Wisconsin doesn’t have a helmet law either plus, I’m not terribly bright 😉
You’re welcome. Be sure to read some of the comments on this video. Be sure the clutch reservoir return line is clean. It’s a common problem on these bikes. Lots of info in the comments here.
I’m wondering if you can do a video on the rear drum brake replacement. I know it’s not your bike but maybe once they need it. the videos out right now are terrible and your quality videos are great!
Hello great video. I've been riding for 2 years only and am my own mechanic. I got this 2005 s83 boulevard that doesn't want to shift up past neutral. 1st and neutral shift fine. What is more likely for this bike with 10k miles.... faulty clutch and springs or shifter linkage? Mind you the bike is not running, I'm waiting on a fuel pump relay. ty
There could be several things going on there since you’re moving the shifter up 2 positions to go past 1st gear. It’s certainly not the clutch if it goes into first and engages when you release it. I would start with just lubricating all the moving parts and work them. Just know if it’s not running, you’ll never be able to get anything higher than 1st gear because the driveline is not turning. The only other problem could be the selector in the transmission which is known by many names like scag,fork, synchronizer or linkage but that’s not very common. Give that a try first. If you’re near central Wisconsin I may be able to look at it with you.
@@pilgrimsgarage Thanks for quick reply and offer to help. I unfortunately am in central NJ. So you taught me, if bike is not running I can't go past 1st. Here I thought I could cycle up and down the gears while it was off like you can in a car. Lol. Ok well my first priority is getting the bike to run, specifically I have no spark. I think I've narrowed it down to my cdi box my battery is new and the stator and pickup coils pass resistance test.
I have been searching for information on why my motorcycle's oil burned after a few kilometers, until I disassembled my motorcycle to check the clutch, it seems to be bad, although my biggest concern was the oil, I did not know that this happened with it, and Nowhere could I find information or data that indicates that it can be burned by the clutch, and I see that exactly the same thing happened here, did you also change the filter?
Uh yeah…that…uh…well…this one had been modified by yours truly. I honestly didn’t know they had pins in them. The good news is that loctite works great when you put them back in.
You might be able to reuse the friction plates if you scuff them up. Use steel wool or a scuff pad. Make sure that they are clean before you put them in. 80 to 100 inch pounds is about 8 foot pounds. One thing I want you to do before replacing the clutch is pop your hydraulic reservoir off and use a piece of wire to clean out the small hole in front of the plunger on the reservoir. You have to make sure that the clutch can back bleed. If that is plugged, it will make it feel like a slipping clutch. Thank you for the compliment, and I hope it all works out for you.
@@pilgrimsgarage Thank you so much.! My clutch slips alot when it's cold but then when it's hot it dosen't.. u think that could be due to old clutch fluid or u think that really is the clutchpads cuse they expand when they get hot.?
I just bought a vs800 for my fiance. Today on the initial first ride i noticed clutch slip in higher gears under hard acceleration. In sure the clutch is fried. Can you put in comments exactly what you ordered of Amazon? I want the same kit because from what I'm seeing these bikes need the better springs. Thank you. And good video. I'll be using it to change mine.
The link is in the description. One thing I want you to look at before changing it. In the hydraulic reservoir there are 2 holes, one for the supply for the plunger (large hole) and the second is a return (very small hole). Use either a very small piece of wire or a small torch cleaner with the smallest wire to clean out that return line. How you can check it is if you have the cap off and you squeeze the clutch and release it it should cause a small geyser out of that hole. It shows the return releasing the slave cylinder back to engaged. If it doesn’t then that hole is plugged. If it is plugged it won’t let the clutch re-engage properly making the clutch slip. Give that a try before replacing the clutch…it takes 2 minutes. If you’re near central Wisconsin and you want to do it here, you’re more than welcome to come over😊
It ended being the fluid was so old and relief port was rusted shut. Opened port, put fresh fluid in and it's not slipping now. That little port in the master releases pressure. Being clogged it wasn't allowing the clutch to fully engage.
So happy I found this video! I have the exact problem described above on my 92. Started as a slip and now clutch won’t disengage at all. Lever seems to have too much pressure. I can actually start the bike without even pulling in the clutch. After reading your comment above I pulled my cap and there is absolutely No movement in the fluid. That tiny hole must be completely blocked. Now to find a wire small enough and go from there. I was ready to trailer this thing off to a repair shop but now I feel I know enough from watching your video to dig into this further. I’ll update after I clean that port if it was the cause. Thanks again for a thorough and detailed video and comment section!!👍🏼
How's it going brother. How good is the clutch? or that brand? How many kilometers does it support? And finally, do you recommend that brand or the original. thank you
So my friend sold the bike last fall and he put over 5k miles on it last summer. He had zero issues with the clutch. If you read some of the comments that others had written on here you’ll see there is a few tips I’ve given when replacing or diagnosing the clutch problems that these bikes have had. As far as the brand, I think the clutch is fine for the price. It all depends on how you ride the bike. I e had clutches last 2500 miles and clutches that last 25000 miles. It’s all how you ride it. Quite honestly without filming I think I could’ve done this job in about an hour with my lift and maybe 1.5 on the ground…it’s really simple. If you’re near central Wisconsin, bring it over…we can do it together.
TY out of the blue my clutch started slipping in 4th and 5thFluid is clean, comp hole is clear. Someone knowledgeable with these bikes told me to replace the springs before replacing the clutches. I'm going to pull it all apart and inspect the clutches but I want the kit on hand if I need them. @@pilgrimsgarage
Read some of the comments and it might help you troubleshoot before you get to deep into it. The 1400 is almost identical except it has 8 bolts instead of 4 for the clutch assembly… it’s a piece of cake
It takes a while to bleed to the slave cylinder. Try this, in one of my latest videos I changed the master cylinder on a Polaris Sportsman and I did a back bleed. Basically what I did was fill up a syringe with brake fluid and put it on the bleeder at the caliper and pushed it back through the system. It worked very well. I’ve been told that’s a great way to bleed out a clutch too. If that doesn’t work just open the bleeder and see if it will gravity bleed. Then pump the heck out of it. I had to change the slave cylinder on that bike too and I had to bleed it out…that’s also in my videos. I hope this helps.
11:59 pls what is that hose ? is it for drain the oil vapor? how u did it pls and what is the best clutch company? after the orignal do u have intruder group ?
That is for the pcv. As far as the best clutch company, I’m not sure, I put a link in the description of the clutch I used. We have 4000 miles on the clutch now with no problems. She and her husband took their bikes all the way to Washington and back. I do not have an intruder group but I’m sure there is some kind of group out there. I was just fixing this one for him.
I followed your link for the clutch kit, would that same kit work for a 96? I know the bike didn’t really change from 92-04 at all. Just want to make sure.
@@pilgrimsgarage it actually doesn’t mention the VS platform at all in that link. The link you have posted is for the VL intruder. But from what I’ve read and threads I’ve gone through, in the mid to late 90’s the VL was just a VS with extras to make it look more high end.
@@caseytanneberg1 ah gotcha. All I did was search this bike on google and it came up with this clutch kit. After a bit of research it turned out to be the correct clutch. I’m not sure on your year. If you’re in central Wisconsin, bring it here and we’ll do it together… no charge my brother
@@pilgrimsgarage if I was close I’d absolutely take you up on that offer! I’m in VA. Was asking in reference to the 96 I just picked up after my 95 was stolen the beginning of June.
@@caseytanneberg1 ugh…some people nowadays have no shame… sorry to hear that. Well, hopefully the new one will give you what you want. Take a road trip up here and we’ll get it done😉
Kickass job! Love my intruder vs 750!
Thank you for saving me a couple hundred dollars! This video was my step-by-step guide!
@@brennanhyde464 you’re welcome. Please look at some of the comments though… there used to be a couple things to try before replacing the clutch.
This movie is very good , and i learning how too work whit the clutch..
Thank you very much...
Harald from Norway
Tengo una intruder. Que me falla tanto pero acá donde vivo no hay buenos mecánicos.. gracias por su video. Buen hombre
De nada. Si es posible, quite la cubierta del depósito del embrague y limpie primero el pequeño agujero para la línea de retorno. Es común que esto esté enchufado haciendo que el embrague se pegue. Usa un pequeño trozo de alambre para meterlo en el agujero.
Debería ser un géiser cuando bombees el embrague. Haz esto antes de reemplazar el embrague para asegurarte de que no sea solo la línea de retorno. Espero que esto ayude. Gracias, amigo mío y buena suerte.
I tried to go from English to Spanish. I hope it came out ok.
Love your guide, very idiot proof - which is exactly what I need lol. I would love more Intruder/motorcycle content!
I have a few videos on it but it was a friends bike that he just recently sold to my disappointment.
@@pilgrimsgarage Yeah these are nice machines. Some of the tech on them is getting really old and it's sometimes harder to find a good guide not to break something.
Great work and amazing clip, I couldn't find anyone else explaining it step-by-step like this 👌
Thank you. It’s a pretty simple process but one thing I highly recommend is to make sure both holes in the clutch reservoir are cleaned. Use a torch cleaner with a super small wire to clean out the return line (small hole). Many people think the clutch is slipping when what’s really happening is the fluid is not making it back to the reservoir hence they think the clutch is slipping. This bike had that problem which they never found until the clutch was completely shot.
Good luck and thank you for the compliment.
@pilgrimsgarage I appreciate the tips, but I think I'll have to replace O-rings and seal for the slave cylinder because I've repeated the process 5 times and still getting air bubbles 🫧 or probably rebuild the clutch entirely! It's a 2000 Suzuki intruder vs800 with 23k but I love it and can't let go 😎 thanks again
@@HanzoAnssorri I have a video replacing that too…it’s a breeze
@pilgrimsgarage I'd definitely check that video, and if you're thinking of video for how to re-do the entire clutch and covering all details that's would be great! Thanks 👍
Great video! Very clear and straightforward. After reading the comments I'm definitely going to check the ports in the reservoir. Thanks for doing this and I hope your viewership grows. Too bad you dont have more intruder content, it can be hard to find and its getting more necessary for me. I have a 1991 750 that's been in my family since my dad bought it in '92. Love that old girl.
Thank you for the kind words. DEFINITELY start at those ports in the reservoir.
Nice video I just bought a 99 800 with 14000 miles on it. Shift fine and everything when I wromp on it seems like it’s slipping only flored deff going to flush cylinder first and check my holes. First before I order clutch thanks for the video. Keep two wheels down
Yes, totally check those two holes first. I literally had the smallest one spit fluid at me when I did it. This bike had 28,000 miles on it. Thanks for the compliment and happy riding.
@@pilgrimsgaragehow would the holes get clogged?
@@LearningWithTitus from what I gather, the fluid gets old and maybe breaks down? I’m not sure but when I changed this fluid it resembled chocolate milk. I literally cleaned out the hole (wish I would’ve filmed it) and it spit out at me. I’m not sure how the contamination happened but it did. Maybe poor seals on the master cylinder? From what I’ve experienced it’s pretty common in these Suzukis. That’s the reason I noted it.
@@pilgrimsgarage so take the top off the reservoir near the handle an I'll see it? Do I have to bleed it after? An how do I if so?
@@LearningWithTitus yes take the cover off and you should be able to see it. You have 2 holes. One is for the plunger and the other is a return or relief. Use a very small piece of wire or a torch tip cleaner (you can get these at any parts store…typically $5) and put it in that hole. How you can check if it works is pull the cover off and squeeze the clutch. If you get a little geyser or spurt straight up when you release the clutch then it’s ok. If you don’t then it’s plugged. You do not have to bleed it unless it’s out of fluid.
helping my neighbor with his this weekend ! thanks for a great video! great quality, easy to understand. you the man !
One more thing I want you to do…when you pull the hydraulic reservoir cap off, use a very small piece of wire or the smallest torch cleaner that the kit has. There is a very small hole in front of the plunger hole that you should run that wire or torch cleaner through. It is the return for the fluid from the Slave cylinder. That has a tendency to plug and give the illusion of a slipping clutch.
Just be sure when you release the clutch that you get a small geyser or pressure from that little hole. It will save you some time. Thank you for the compliment.
i dont see me doing this anytime soon but i enjoyed the video and i learned something new i did not know before. take care and have a wonderful day
Thanks Roger. Well if you ever do a clutch on an Intruder… now you know 😉. Thanks brother
Videos like this are dangerous will have me fixing things i don't need to fix on my bike. but Great video
Nice!!! It’s all good. If you have this kind of Suzuki and are having clutch issues, be sure to read some of the comments. There are things to try before you go that far in depth with the clutch replacement. Thank you for the compliment though…have a great day.
Great video. I got an s50 but it looks exactly the same. Thank you
You’re welcome.
Great vid thanks! You made it simple and straightforward.
Thank you. It’s a pretty easy install but read some of the comments. Before replacing the clutch, clean out the return hole in the clutch reservoir. It’s all in the comments.
Danke für das tolle Video. Grüße aus Kaiserslautern Germany
Got to change my clutches on my Suzuki intruder 700 it slips in third when you cracked the throttle open but if you let off it don't do it as much it's actually pretty strong just under acceleration real hard I bought the engine off of eBay it's set on a pallet of 45 years in a warehouse thinking maybe that might be something to do with it
Great information. I’ll need to do mine soon.
If I wouldn’t have filmed it, it probably would have taken me about an hour and a half. Hardest part was actually removing the gasket from the cover. 20 years made it a bit on the hard side. It was a breeze otherwise.
Perfect work
Thank you. I hope to help everyone who needs to do this…it’s a breeze
Honestly these bikes don't need new clutches unless there is very high mileage, over 40k. The issue is the comansating hole in the clutch master cylinder is blocked. Be sure to check that before replacing clutches because it will just start slipping again until that hole is cleared.
Yeah, I’ve put that in many of the comments. I should’ve made a video on that but I didn’t. I do that every time I change a hydraulic clutch or slave cylinder.
Explain? I like this topic, come across a recently overhauled 800cc but clutch slips a little bit on open taps
@@mikemeets8873 2 things to look for 1st is the little compensating hole in the bottom of the clutch master cylinder. 2nd is the clutch condition and pressure plate springs. If the compensating hole is open and the clutch still slips then pull the cover off and inspect the clutch. If it looks worn and burn replace the clutch AND springs. If the clutch looks fine only replace the springs. I use the EBC replacement springs.
You sure helped me thanks brother. Clear detail how-to. Unlike others I watched. Could you tell me what torque wrench that is you use when tightening down the bolts for the springs. Also what springs would you recommend on a 2000 suzuki intruder vs800gl.
The torque wrench is a tool shop brand. I got it from Harbor Freight. The springs I used came with the kit and they work really well providing a strong grip to the clutch but I think that Partzilla has different sizes. We have about 2200 miles on this clutch and springs now and it’s excellent. Thank you for the compliment I’m glad it helped you out.
Good job 👍
Thank you. I’ve done half a dozen Harleys but never a Suzuki. It’s easier then a Harley for sure. Thanks for the compliment my brother!
Nice and simple way to do it... only thing short in video was never showing howmuch oil you put back into motor unless i missed it?
Honestly, I think it was just under 4 quarts. You just have the site glass to fill it and once you start it the filter takes about a 1/2 pint. I think you’re correct though…I think I may not have said how much. Sorry about that
No stress, common sense tells you to refill oil but some first timer will start the bike up with no oil 🤣... wait... first timers would not make it that far anyways 🙈
Where’s your Helmet? Lol !!!
Nice job! Your bike looks a lot like mine except mine is a 1400.
Hopefully if I ever need it the process is similar?
Yes it’s almost identical other than the exhaust supports and your clutch has 8 bolts versus 4 on this one. Wisconsin doesn’t have a helmet law either plus, I’m not terribly bright 😉
thank you!
You’re welcome. Be sure to read some of the comments on this video. Be sure the clutch reservoir return line is clean. It’s a common problem on these bikes. Lots of info in the comments here.
I’m wondering if you can do a video on the rear drum brake replacement. I know it’s not your bike but maybe once they need it. the videos out right now are terrible and your quality videos are great!
I will check with him. They’re not terrible to do. I use shop manuals most of the time.
Hello great video. I've been riding for 2 years only and am my own mechanic. I got this 2005 s83 boulevard that doesn't want to shift up past neutral. 1st and neutral shift fine. What is more likely for this bike with 10k miles.... faulty clutch and springs or shifter linkage? Mind you the bike is not running, I'm waiting on a fuel pump relay. ty
There could be several things going on there since you’re moving the shifter up 2 positions to go past 1st gear. It’s certainly not the clutch if it goes into first and engages when you release it.
I would start with just lubricating all the moving parts and work them.
Just know if it’s not running, you’ll never be able to get anything higher than 1st gear because the driveline is not turning.
The only other problem could be the selector in the transmission which is known by many names like scag,fork, synchronizer or linkage but that’s not very common.
Give that a try first. If you’re near central Wisconsin I may be able to look at it with you.
@@pilgrimsgarage Thanks for quick reply and offer to help. I unfortunately am in central NJ. So you taught me, if bike is not running I can't go past 1st. Here I thought I could cycle up and down the gears while it was off like you can in a car. Lol. Ok well my first priority is getting the bike to run, specifically I have no spark. I think I've narrowed it down to my cdi box my battery is new and the stator and pickup coils pass resistance test.
@ericroman9126 you sound like you’ve got a good grasp on it. Do me a favor and share your results…it is always helpful to the masses.
I have been searching for information on why my motorcycle's oil burned after a few kilometers, until I disassembled my motorcycle to check the clutch, it seems to be bad, although my biggest concern was the oil, I did not know that this happened with it, and Nowhere could I find information or data that indicates that it can be burned by the clutch, and I see that exactly the same thing happened here, did you also change the filter?
@@robertojesusgonzalez yes I changed the filter too
On my 2005 800 boulevard I have safety pins in the 4 bolts holding the footbag bracget on to the frame. They have to be removed before removing bolts
Uh yeah…that…uh…well…this one had been modified by yours truly. I honestly didn’t know they had pins in them. The good news is that loctite works great when you put them back in.
Do you need to change to new friction bads between each pads or can u use the old ones.? Great video 👍 How much is 80/100 inch punds in Nm?
You might be able to reuse the friction plates if you scuff them up. Use steel wool or a scuff pad. Make sure that they are clean before you put them in. 80 to 100 inch pounds is about 8 foot pounds.
One thing I want you to do before replacing the clutch is pop your hydraulic reservoir off and use a piece of wire to clean out the small hole in front of the plunger on the reservoir. You have to make sure that the clutch can back bleed. If that is plugged, it will make it feel like a slipping clutch.
Thank you for the compliment, and I hope it all works out for you.
@@pilgrimsgarage Thank you so much.! My clutch slips alot when it's cold but then when it's hot it dosen't.. u think that could be due to old clutch fluid or u think that really is the clutchpads cuse they expand when they get hot.?
@@pilgrimsgarage Does the friction plates wears down or do they keep the thickness?
@@honda4185 no they should not wear down. The only way they would wear down would be if the clutch was completely shot and there was metal on metal.
@@pilgrimsgarageOkey thank you. How thick is the new clutch pads when new?
great vid, thanks! how did you extend the sissybar. looks great!
I believe that was a factory backrest. It wasn’t my bike so I can’t speak for it.
Is good may lntruder no stared natin. Meyvy is electric❤
I just bought a vs800 for my fiance. Today on the initial first ride i noticed clutch slip in higher gears under hard acceleration. In sure the clutch is fried. Can you put in comments exactly what you ordered of Amazon? I want the same kit because from what I'm seeing these bikes need the better springs. Thank you. And good video. I'll be using it to change mine.
The link is in the description. One thing I want you to look at before changing it. In the hydraulic reservoir there are 2 holes, one for the supply for the plunger (large hole) and the second is a return (very small hole). Use either a very small piece of wire or a small torch cleaner with the smallest wire to clean out that return line. How you can check it is if you have the cap off and you squeeze the clutch and release it it should cause a small geyser out of that hole. It shows the return releasing the slave cylinder back to engaged. If it doesn’t then that hole is plugged. If it is plugged it won’t let the clutch re-engage properly making the clutch slip.
Give that a try before replacing the clutch…it takes 2 minutes.
If you’re near central Wisconsin and you want to do it here, you’re more than welcome to come over😊
It ended being the fluid was so old and relief port was rusted shut. Opened port, put fresh fluid in and it's not slipping now. That little port in the master releases pressure. Being clogged it wasn't allowing the clutch to fully engage.
@@smalliehuntermatthubbard2539 fantastic!!!! Nice job!!
@@pilgrimsgarageThat, my friend, is awesome. What a nice guy! Too bad I live way out in Phoenix!
So happy I found this video! I have the exact problem described above on my 92. Started as a slip and now clutch won’t disengage at all. Lever seems to have too much pressure. I can actually start the bike without even pulling in the clutch. After reading your comment above I pulled my cap and there is absolutely No movement in the fluid. That tiny hole must be completely blocked. Now to find a wire small enough and go from there.
I was ready to trailer this thing off to a repair shop but now I feel I know enough from watching your video to dig into this further. I’ll update after I clean that port if it was the cause. Thanks again for a thorough and detailed video and comment section!!👍🏼
Good video sir. Will this work with the 2005 boulevard s83
It should be very similar except for the exhaust and footpegs.
How's it going brother. How good is the clutch? or that brand? How many kilometers does it support? And finally, do you recommend that brand or the original. thank you
So my friend sold the bike last fall and he put over 5k miles on it last summer. He had zero issues with the clutch. If you read some of the comments that others had written on here you’ll see there is a few tips I’ve given when replacing or diagnosing the clutch problems that these bikes have had. As far as the brand, I think the clutch is fine for the price. It all depends on how you ride the bike. I e had clutches last 2500 miles and clutches that last 25000 miles. It’s all how you ride it. Quite honestly without filming I think I could’ve done this job in about an hour with my lift and maybe 1.5 on the ground…it’s really simple. If you’re near central Wisconsin, bring it over…we can do it together.
@@pilgrimsgarage Thanks brother but I'm from Mexico City. So it's a bit far for me hahaha but could I ask you any questions?
the gasket dont need glue/sealant?
@@Chopper_Vibes no. It’s still fine to this day. If you want to you can but I’d recommend high tack or something thin.
I don't understand the link to the kit is for a VL800 but you are working on a VS800, are they the same? I need the kit for a 96 vs800. TY
I believe they are the same thing. Amazon suppliers sometimes change their descriptions but this link was the right clutch.
TY out of the blue my clutch started slipping in 4th and 5thFluid is clean, comp hole is clear. Someone knowledgeable with these bikes told me to replace the springs before replacing the clutches. I'm going to pull it all apart and inspect the clutches but I want the kit on hand if I need them. @@pilgrimsgarage
I have a 1400 Suzuki intruder my clutch is out it I have something leaking
Read some of the comments and it might help you troubleshoot before you get to deep into it. The 1400 is almost identical except it has 8 bolts instead of 4 for the clutch assembly… it’s a piece of cake
I change my clutch cable line and air got into my system and now I can’t get it to work I can’t get the bleeding nipple to bleed
It takes a while to bleed to the slave cylinder. Try this, in one of my latest videos I changed the master cylinder on a Polaris Sportsman and I did a back bleed. Basically what I did was fill up a syringe with brake fluid and put it on the bleeder at the caliper and pushed it back through the system. It worked very well. I’ve been told that’s a great way to bleed out a clutch too. If that doesn’t work just open the bleeder and see if it will gravity bleed. Then pump the heck out of it. I had to change the slave cylinder on that bike too and I had to bleed it out…that’s also in my videos.
I hope this helps.
11:59 pls what is that hose ? is it for drain the oil vapor? how u did it pls and what is the best clutch company? after the orignal do u have intruder group ?
That is for the pcv. As far as the best clutch company, I’m not sure, I put a link in the description of the clutch I used. We have 4000 miles on the clutch now with no problems. She and her husband took their bikes all the way to Washington and back. I do not have an intruder group but I’m sure there is some kind of group out there. I was just fixing this one for him.
I followed your link for the clutch kit, would that same kit work for a 96? I know the bike didn’t really change from 92-04 at all. Just want to make sure.
I’m not sure but I think it is. Look at the link and see if it has a year range.
@@pilgrimsgarage it actually doesn’t mention the VS platform at all in that link. The link you have posted is for the VL intruder. But from what I’ve read and threads I’ve gone through, in the mid to late 90’s the VL was just a VS with extras to make it look more high end.
@@caseytanneberg1 ah gotcha. All I did was search this bike on google and it came up with this clutch kit. After a bit of research it turned out to be the correct clutch. I’m not sure on your year. If you’re in central Wisconsin, bring it here and we’ll do it together… no charge my brother
@@pilgrimsgarage if I was close I’d absolutely take you up on that offer! I’m in VA. Was asking in reference to the 96 I just picked up after my 95 was stolen the beginning of June.
@@caseytanneberg1 ugh…some people nowadays have no shame… sorry to hear that. Well, hopefully the new one will give you what you want. Take a road trip up here and we’ll get it done😉
Bonjour référence du kit complet et/ou le commander. Merci
De rein. Roule predemment mon ami.
Bonjour référence du kit complet
@@norbertbulot443 le lien est dans la description.
Excellent explicación muy buen video
Muchas Gracias