This is the first of your videos that I have discovered. I enjoyed the material and learned some tricks (e.g. using a D bit from the other end). How does the brass go? No dezincification? I love your speech. To a person who is unschooled in South African accents, it sounds a bit like J. M. Coetzee's speech. We hear that occasionally on the Wireless here in Australia. Very different from other South African speech styles. Is it regional, or does it belong to a particular stratum?
😅My speech is probably regional, it also changes with mother tongue... Dezincification is unfortunately poorly described and understood in our hobby. The short answer is all components outside the boiler can be brass; silver soldered boiler bushes below the water line should be phbronze and gunmetal/phbronze above the water line (for copper boilers). This has to do with the soldering process, the zinc comes out of solution and diffuses to the grain boundaries. When you do a polished sample you can actually see white 'cracks' which eventually leach out and cause what are mistaken as brittle failures. The reason why steam valves work when made from brass is because the soldering process is much quicker so there's less time for the zinc to defuse. Also the contact area is generally smaller relative to the volume when compared to bushes. The green loco in the video is well over 10 years old and even the blowdowns are still perfect.
My main regret in moving to Ireland is that I miss Adendorffs. Its a six week delay ordering from AliExpress. Plus all the little things you pick up on when you mooch around Adendorffs. You don't get that. Appreciate the big A.
I bought my mini mill from Adendorff - one with the power X feed - and it's done a few good jobs. The only problem I find with Adendorff is the limited range of tooling e.g. carbide end mills etc, or different sizes of cut-off tools for lathes. Also, it would be nice if they stocked an affordable, but fairly decent DRO system. The other stuff I've bought from them (e.g. engine lift/crane) has performed satisfactorily.
I've managed to come right with just their sets, I haven't really used carbide milling cutters much because sharpening them can be tricky. Have a look at my vernier scale video for my diy dro using digital calipers...
@@Lukers_tinkering yeah, there's a few videos going that route, but the cheaper calipers stay on permanently and inserting the batteries every time is a bit of a pain.. Biggest issue is the exchange rate, to be fair.
Thanks for the time and effort of making this video. These little lathes are as you say are great for people just starting out in model engineering. Can you tell me, when you are building lets say the LBSC Virginia and it will I am sure call for 5BA screws etc are they easy to come by in South Africa or do you substitute them with metric or UNF?
Thanks for watching! No they not unfortunately. The only imperial system I use is ME because I make all the fittings nuts etc. All small fasteners are metric and I modify them for smaller heads etc. I wrote an article in Model engineer some time back describing these methods...
Remember these Chinese lathes are built to a price. That means that usually the machines are a kit, and you have to take the machine apart and rebuild it to make it usable. This is a real handicap for someone without a machining background. If you can manage it, buy a machine made in Taiwan. You may be assured that if it is it will be noted in the advertisement. It will cost more, but you get what you pay for.
This is the first of your videos that I have discovered. I enjoyed the material and learned some tricks (e.g. using a D bit from the other end). How does the brass go? No dezincification? I love your speech. To a person who is unschooled in South African accents, it sounds a bit like J. M. Coetzee's speech. We hear that occasionally on the Wireless here in Australia. Very different from other South African speech styles. Is it regional, or does it belong to a particular stratum?
😅My speech is probably regional, it also changes with mother tongue... Dezincification is unfortunately poorly described and understood in our hobby. The short answer is all components outside the boiler can be brass; silver soldered boiler bushes below the water line should be phbronze and gunmetal/phbronze above the water line (for copper boilers). This has to do with the soldering process, the zinc comes out of solution and diffuses to the grain boundaries. When you do a polished sample you can actually see white 'cracks' which eventually leach out and cause what are mistaken as brittle failures. The reason why steam valves work when made from brass is because the soldering process is much quicker so there's less time for the zinc to defuse. Also the contact area is generally smaller relative to the volume when compared to bushes. The green loco in the video is well over 10 years old and even the blowdowns are still perfect.
Very nice work sir. Lekker man.
My main regret in moving to Ireland is that I miss Adendorffs. Its a six week delay ordering from AliExpress. Plus all the little things you pick up on when you mooch around Adendorffs. You don't get that. Appreciate the big A.
amazing Luker great video
Thanks...
Great video.
I bought my mini mill from Adendorff - one with the power X feed - and it's done a few good jobs. The only problem I find with Adendorff is the limited range of tooling e.g. carbide end mills etc, or different sizes of cut-off tools for lathes. Also, it would be nice if they stocked an affordable, but fairly decent DRO system. The other stuff I've bought from them (e.g. engine lift/crane) has performed satisfactorily.
I've managed to come right with just their sets, I haven't really used carbide milling cutters much because sharpening them can be tricky. Have a look at my vernier scale video for my diy dro using digital calipers...
@@Lukers_tinkering yeah, there's a few videos going that route, but the cheaper calipers stay on permanently and inserting the batteries every time is a bit of a pain..
Biggest issue is the exchange rate, to be fair.
Thanks for the time and effort of making this video. These little lathes are as you say are great for people just starting out in model engineering.
Can you tell me, when you are building lets say the LBSC Virginia and it will I am sure call for 5BA screws etc are they easy to come by in South Africa or do you substitute them with metric or UNF?
Thanks for watching! No they not unfortunately. The only imperial system I use is ME because I make all the fittings nuts etc. All small fasteners are metric and I modify them for smaller heads etc. I wrote an article in Model engineer some time back describing these methods...
Remember these Chinese lathes are built to a price. That means that usually the machines are a kit, and you have to take the machine apart and rebuild it to make it usable.
This is a real handicap for someone without a machining background. If you can manage it, buy a machine made in Taiwan. You may be assured that if it is it will be noted in the advertisement. It will cost more, but you get what you pay for.
I wouldn't completely strip the machine but the sliders definitely. I would honestly do the same with any machine...
Great video, I would like to see how you make the steam valve body. Plse do us a video on that.
Thanks, Will do!