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Great video, I also have the same bags and have used the shoe polish. I also soak them with neets foot oil which keeps the leather supple.

Changed two things at once. Experiment ruined.

You're talking shit mate

Touching the tool method.... I electrically isolate the tool and connect it to a vom with a buzzer. Buzzer goes of when micronically close but NOT TOUCHING. Micronically close varies with humidity though.😮 There are tables for that. Use a humidistat if you need.

great tips

Very clear explanation. Nice to not hear a U. S. accent. Thank you.

Great Video! I’m of the same ilk. If I have one fixed reference, I can find my way back home. LOL

Great tutorial! Thank you...

How about a video on centre finding on the mill when one doesn't have a DRO...

This channel is brilliant, such an opportunity for learning. Thanks... Subbed here for sure!

Yes. They’re good tips. It’s amazing, but in my old machine tool books going back to the later 19th century, 130 years ago, lots of tips like these are written about. While I would never say that a cDRO is the only way to do things, after the first 50 years of my doing this I didn’t use a DRO. But, it’s certainly easier, faster and subject to a LOT less error. People may not believe it, but “back in the day” there were a lot more scrapped parts from errors in machining that DROs eliminate almost totally. You’d be surprised how easy it is to forget how many winds on the dial you’ve made.

Thanks for all the comments guys, really appreciate the feedback. I'll do something interesting for the milling machine setup (DTI's etc, my DRO is homemade though...) and tricks I use there aswell!

Yes milling machine video. Enjoyed this video. Thanks

Thanks!

I know more now, from listening and understanding what you teach. Many thanks

thanks for your time it takes to make these great videos.

Great video thanks. I would love to see a video on using the DTI and other equipment

Marking the stock with the jaw number before removing is a great tip. It's so simple, and yet it just never occurs to so many ppl (myself included). Thanks!

I realy like your Videos a lot and they help me a lot as an beginner!

I would love to see your edge finder tips, just bought my first milling machine.

Excellent! Thank you.

Nice!! Gotta love that kind of fit. It makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Lol.

Also a myth is that when single point threading on a lathe that the compound must be at a angle ( 29,5 degrees for example). This is not necessary and I found that it depends on how you learned it. I learned cutting thread by using the parallel method. Most people who learned threading by setting the compound on a angle are convinced that using the parallel method will ruin the thread or it is less accurate. They don't know that when cutting thread in the parallel method that by every infeed off the compound we also move the compound a little bit perpendicular to the workpiece. And there are charts for this that will show you for every infeed how much you move the cutter perpendicular. Using these 2 steps your cutter ends up at the same point as when you move the cutter with the compound on 29,5 degrees.😀 Imagine a triangle with a angle of 29,5 degrees , there are also 2 sides on the triangle that are at a 90 degree angle. These 2 represents the movement of the cutter when using the parallel method 👍😀.

Hi Luker, stumbled across your channel when one of your videos came up on your Heritage. My hat goes off to you. Your talent and ingenuity is very impressive. I have been a motorcycle guy for many years and currently buy fix up and sell bikes as a hobby, to the extent of the original design. I really enjoyed watching your videos on your 1997 Heritage and things that you have improved. Excellent great job. I have a 1987 Heritage that I brought back to life last winter and am really enjoying it.

Good stuff. Your handbook will give you the correct size for the thread major diameter for the thread being cut. If you are doing work for someone else, always check to see that the thread pitch diameter is correct with the three-wire method or a go/no-go gage (if you are lucky enough to have one for the thread being cut). The nut you got at the hardware store doesn't guarantee that what you made will fit what they have. When setting up the lathe to cut threads there is one change in the order of operations I would make vs. what was shown in the video. Bring the cutting tool up close to the work and stop when the cross-feed handle is at about the 10:30 position and set the cross feed dial to zero. Then bring the compound slide up to the work and set it to zero. Doing this allows you to snap the thread cutting tool out of the work and you can easily cut threads at a higher rpm (e.g. 200rpm). I usually don't bother cutting any thread relief and just pull the tool out of the work on each pass. Do it a few times and you will see that it is pretty easy to do. The higher rpm actually makes this easier to do. If you are cutting fractional inch threads (e.g. 11 1/2 tpi) or metric threads where you can't disengage the half-nut on an imperial lathe with a thread dial there is a trick you can use. When threading to a shoulder the trick is to snap the tool out of the work, open the half-nut, and cut the power and let the lathe coast to a stop. Notice that your mark on the thread dial hasn't moved much past the set mark. Reverse the lathe and when the mark comes back to the correct spot, re-engage the half nut and back the carriage up to the start position for the next cut. Cheers from NC/USA

Thank you, I really enjoyed the video!

You should make a video about clocking threaded parts to certain positions by calculating how much to sand off one end or shim with a precision washer

Thank you so much for your information well described that an old head could absorb, Please continue to help out those of us who are making a late start into this great Hobby .

Thanks Luke I'll try your chasing method for internal threads as i always tend to struggle with it

would it be good to add a brush at the end of the pipe so it can coat your chain evenly?

I use black Kiwi polish or Cordovan

Luker, I have watched a few of your YT videos, so well explained, but you get my SUB for this one, even from a "Kiwi" Lekker.

I only get chatter when facing on my chinese lathe. Shortening the tool overhang and making sure all slides are free from shake sometomes gives a fair cut but some of the problem I think comes from the speed control that pulses the drive motor and adds different vibration characteristics. I have used really old worn out lathes with smooth drive belts and obtained very neat and smooth facing despite all the wear on the machines.

Perfect example with proving of chatter point according to theory portion also.🎉

A bit dramatic dont ya think.

On my 9 inch south bend I eliminated the chatter by using a 3 phase motor and an inverter from Amazon. Turns out the single phase motor which hummed like a washing machine was making vibrations in the whole lathe. Also by using the inverter It's possible to vary the rpms with the turn of a knob.

Great stuff, but dampening is when you wet something down. Damping is when you reduce vibrations...

Great video, filled in a lot of gaps in my knowledge. Fire Queen is an amazing thing- good to see her at Aberystwyth at the moment, too! Thanks for such an informative video.

If you are machining the OD of a hollow job and it starts singing , you stuff the ID with a rag and the harmonics stop

Excellent video, well done.

Great idea! I will try it out!!

Good video and modeling. It's a hard subject to talk about. Engineering 101, everything is a spring. You're a spring, every part of the lathe is a spring, the stock is a spring, and the cutting tool is also. You are cutting a spring with another spring.

Fantastic content. Looking forward to this series in applying tig to ME stainless boiler design. Doubly so in that you are addressing many of the “gotcha’s” such as SCC, surface prep/cleaning, alloy selection, filler rod material, thermal expansion…etc. Thank you!

Thanks, well done.

Very informative. Thank you.

👍👍

Why don't we use a semi-circular choke? The contacts are often copper and may have been made for this purpose

Im hashem from yemen , isee very well thank u friend❤

Thanks for the hints. I spent a lot of time in a machine shop as a welder and noticed the copper underneath the tool but never thought anythinv other than it being a shim. Now I know the purpose for when I get my old leblond up and running again. 👍

Excellent video…thank you..