I have a full size steam engine 8 inch bore and a 10 inch stoke, similar to your model, I run it with a 40 HP Case steam boiler, it is lubricated with one of the steam condensing water lubricates you are talking about, they use a special steam oil also the cylinder is lubricated with graphite. I enjoy your TH-cam episodes, you are a good teacher.
You are correct about the ratio of mass and weight to the size of the drill bit. Considering the size of that assembly and weight of the angle plate your did just fine. I would not have done it much differently. Problem is far too many of the people criticizing you are armchair quarterbacks. I took my training as a tool and die maker in 1972 and if it means anything to you, I like the way you work. I am retired now and I have discovered you tube. I like your videos. I am going to order that large steam engine you have recently started. Have fun and stay safe.
Also, running your engine on compressed air is very different from running it on live steam. If you make your engine too precise, heat will make parts expand and the engine will stop, it is really a very fine line between having it run smoothly and not running at all. I built a few engines, I have no idea why I keep going back to making small intricate parts for tiny machines, it is time consuming, frustrating at times, but it is highly satisfying to see them run at the end.
Making your engine too precise is not the problem. Think about how silly that statement sounds. The problem was the intended design; perhaps the intended clearances/fits should have been loosened to account for expansion of materials under normal operation. If you backed something off by .003, your new "target" dimension is what you aim for, and you want to hit that dimension as accurately / precisely as possible.
Hi Quinn - i am a retired toolmaker, but not hesitant to check out youtube when starting new projects. again impressed with your steam chest presentation. Just finished my 4th engine build. All from ideas on line, but my own designs. Just had to make this one with a steam chest. Did get some very valuable pointers from you. Much appreciated, Howard
We could never be mad at you...she did what?!?...OH MY GOD! IMPERIAL, METRIC, and yes, WHITWORTH FIST SHAKE!! Oh, it worked beautifully? Well of course it did. Nicely done! We knew you could do it! That was pretty cool. The whole steam engine is amazing to hamfisted me. Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Make a drill guide for your holes. A round blank or square then drill your pattern thru it with all the holes, the big bolt pattern and the small holes, and leave a boss in the center to locate on the casting unless you have the right size pin to locate the center hole. I never use punch marks for close tolerance holes. maybe for an oil pan. Just a different way of doing it. Try a 3 fluted end mill for slots. All I use now is 3 flutes or 5 flutes or 1 flute. Keep it odd Blondi.
Have you ever used a Noxon punch? It's a short prick punch butted up against a short center punch with a tension spring between them. You pull on the one end and the spring drives the other end into the work. They have great feel for lighter marks and enough wallop for deeper ones.
Your skills are incredible. I'm gonna build a very small-scale steam engine for the first time and hear that they can be built imperfectly but still work gave me hope. Thanks.
Well done on your progress . Nothing wrong with transferring holes , it has been done that way for years .After all we are building steam engines not space rockets . I am also pleased to see you know which port the steam comes in and goes out . As for your first comment in vid about “ making the internet mad t you “. Do not worry . Like me you are a hobbyists and we make do with what we have .i assume you do it because you enjoy it and not to belittle others .
"...After all we are building steam engines not space rockets..." Have you seen what goes down in Boca Chica? I supect they just stick a sharpie though the hole and then drill roughly in the middle of the mark! :-)
That little bit of "Chuffing" at the end of the video was just fantastic. When we build steam engines that's the sound we are waiting to hear, soon it will be Chuffing of steam.
I've been fascinated by the complexity of steam locomotives since I saw one in 1957 when I was 3 years old. My parents took a train powered by that steam locomotive from New York City where I was born in Upper Manhattan on May 3rd, 1954, to Cleveland Ohio where my dad's parents lived. I'm also happy to see many old steam locomotives restored and brought back to life. The best one yet is the Union Pacific 'Big Boy' #4014 one of the largest steam locomotives ever built
I like the fact that you used a drill press to drill some decent holes in your project, not everyone has access to fancy tooling or high-end machines and most of us are hobbyist still trying to figure things out. GREAT JOB, you are AWESOME in my book.
Lovely project. Your explanations are almost always clear, complete, useful, and entertaining. Your channel is one of my 3 or 4 favorites for the hobbyist machinist. I agree with so many others here: the internet _loves_ you.
Love your work and particularly that you you let us know when your human infallibility strikes. It makes us feel not so stupid. But I did notice that when you mounted the cylinder with the transfer screws to mark the hole positions, you had the valve chest hanging out the opposite side to that which you chose to finally fit, that’s why you had to loosen up the clearance holes. (7:26) ( right hand side looking from cylinder down to crank and you are mounting left side looking down to crank. ) I spend a lot of time marking up castings with dyfken blue to indicate features, orientations, alignments, pairings etc as well as for marking out. More importantly for anyone running a steam engine on compressed air, you can buy inline air supply lubricators for old style air tools that needed oil mixed in with the air supply. Just search air tool oiler. They are cheap and replace the displacement lubricator when using compressed air and not steam. A MUST HAVE. Steve
You must be an Engineer. Love the detail in your work and description of how you attack problems. Ignore the complainers, and yes, the internet loves you!
Fantastic job! You are solving one tricky problem after another! I learn so much from your videos. When the engine is done I hope you make a beautiful recreation of a real world installation using model railroad techniques to simulate a masonry base with brass handrails, a dynamo, light and other accessories along with the boiler. . That would be a real masterpiece and heirloom item to cherish.
Noice! Some might pooh-pooh the idea of transferring hole positions, but if it works, it works. It's a preferred method of Kozo Hiraoka, so it's certainly good enough for us mortals. I appreciate your Extremely Concise History of Steam Engineering, very interesting.
Then some people have never dome more then play in the basement. Millwrights who do it for money do it every day as do tool makers. - Just what do the cork sniffers think all the transfer punches and screws ae used for?
You got me almost ready to order a kit for a winter project down here in northern MN. You are doing a great job and at a level us hobbiests can work at ! Thanks Mark
Funny story, I bought I lot of tools from a retiring machinist and found a bunch of those "transfer" screws in his box in a wide variety of diameters and thread pitches. Coming from a fixture design and build background I thought they were just a niffy way to keep around set screws for when you needed. But, now thanks to Quinn I know what they are actually meant for (and the more I think of it, the more it makes sense why they are used in that manner.)
This is wonderful, very helpful and interesting. I'm thinking of making a narrow gauge Steam locomotive and build a small narrow gauge railroad around my house. Thank you for existing!!!
Yup, Endmills deflect. but when slotting or cutting keyways, a 2 flute endmill won't widen out the slot like a 4 flute. Nice to see you using the right endmill. Also, could you have hung the base casting off the edge of the mill table to increase the Z space?
I'm working on this engine also in my spare time, I was a little worried that you might have issues because you steam ports in the chest appeared to long but I need not have worried it works great! Keep up the good work I'm really enjoying it! Now I have to get out to the shop and catch up with you!
A two bowl air service unit works well with pressure reduction, de-watering the air and adding oil into the air. Particularly if you are running an air compressor for some period of time such as at a show where water can build up in the compressor tank. There is a second type which fits inline with the tool which is useless for this application as it relies on a drop in air pressure to inject oil in the air. Good for a nail gun but not turbine style tools such as an air grinder. Note keep the hoses used for running oily air separate from those that you might want to spraypaint with.
I actually told TH-cam to stop suggesting his videos after that. There was no need for him to take after Quinn in such a way. It’s almost like he ordered an identical kit so that he could demonstrate his superiority. Quinn never marketed herself as anything more than a hobby-level machinist, although she demonstrates with every video that she is an incredibly intelligent one. I come to these videos for entertainment, and because the subject is interesting to me. If I were interested in being shown the one-and-only way to get the absolutely most accurate setup, I’d be taking a class rather than watching a TH-cam video. If I ever manage to talk my wife into letting me have a lathe and/or mill, I will also be simply a hobbyist. Things that I have already learned from watching Quinn: 1) Not everything requires engineer-level precision, and your projects will be more enjoyable and successful if you learn to identify the level of precision necessary for each step. 2) There are a number of ways to achieve the same result. If your shop is not blessed with every piece of high-tech industrial grade equipment available, there are always workarounds if you have the brains to figure them out. They may not always be the most accurate, but re-read #1. 3) If you aren’t having fun with what you’re doing, then your hobby is just... work. 4) There are always ways of presenting your skills without belittling the skills of others. If the only way you know how to make yourself look good is to make someone else look bad by comparison, then you’re not all that good at what you do.
@@mrimmortal1579 actually he said the kit was given to him by a subscriber. His style of machining is always a technical approach (not just in this), and is a project for how to approach some challenging machining situations, while Quinn's build is an interesting project for hobbyists. the 2 really should not be compared but I do wonder about the timing of posting the same project
@@pauls5745 It was given to him by a subscriber, but only AFTER he had done a video where he took the piss out of Quinn's method of making the very first cuts on the casting. I have been a subscriber and huge fan of his for a while, up until he started his condescending comments about the way things have been done here. Not everyone has been making aerospace parts for 30 years but he doesn't seem to get that. I also think there's a certain amount of sexism in the attitude I've seen over there recently, I've stopped watching his videos because of it, and I'm no angel believe me but he's pissed me off with it. The RIGHT way for him to have done things would have been to make contact with Quinn, and do it as a friendly challenge where he shows the way to do things if you have 30 years of experience and a professional set of tools to work with and Quinn shows how us mere mortal hobbyists with minimal experience and tools do it, rather than "my way is better" and "I've seen it done wrong".
Let's say civilisation collapses (and you still have power, by whatever means), steam engines look possible to construct in a home shop, but are combustion engines possible for a hobbyist? I'm thinking like "with some learning I could recover society to steam level" but no further.
The eccentric and slide valve configuration is actually really common on full size steam locos :) Where it gets more complicated is having two eccentrics - one forward, one reverse - and a method of combining and graduating the resulting motion between the two with an expansion link. We're overhauling a full size locomotive at the moment, the components of which look almost exactly like what you're building. Happy to send you some footage/pictures to show your viewers for comparison if you like?
Thanks for the excellent description of how it all works. I've always been fascinated by RR steam power. Union Pacific has a big presence in Nebraska with a Challenger on static display in Omaha and the Big Boy moving through the area when they have it out for fun. The atmospheric engine they have on display in the British museum is interesting. Talk about a big cylinder! Simple engine.
If running on compressed air, couldn't one use an inline lubricator with an appropriate oil? That's what we do with all of the non-oiless pneumatics at work (the "L" in the FRL set). We use Mobil DTE Light oil in our lubricators.
1 option with regards to drilling with an odd size drill bit in collets. I have a size I needed to fit in my mill. I ground down the shank OD to fit a standard collet size. .I just carefully did it by hand on my bench grinder. But I bet a person with a proper cutter grinder could do it in a much more precise mannor. Mine works great after center drilling. Just a thought
@@Blondihacks maybe turn a collet adapter/bushing/sleeve on the lathe possibly. Or what I have done on bigger stuff when I blew a dimension, I rolled up a piece of shim stock or thin guage aluminum
If it's 1/8 inch collet, use pieces of 1/8 brass rod, put in lathe, use the drill too drill the hole in centre.. You could soft solder it in place, or simply use a razor saw to slit it lengthwise (one slit will do, ) and the collect will compress the 'tube' and grip the drill. Alternatively, you can get carbide drills for not much cash - reground pcb drills. (and small milling cutters).
As always, great stuff. I'm building some engines from castings without plans. The pocket determines fixed lead and lag while the eccentric provides timing. If the pocket is too wide, the engine will never run: if too narrow ? Perhaps you could help with a formula for the slide valve pocket ? I think 90% works.
Hi Quinn, Great video, I always look forward to your installments and have been following along on the steam engine build since the start of it. You do excellent work, your machining skills are a credit to you, again well done. I felt a need to comment on your channel about your comments on the transition of steam locomotives to Diesel Electric Locomotives, as I felt they were not quite correct. It is true, the 1940's modern steam locomotive was at its pinnacle of its development, and those large articulated steam locomotives packed some serious horsepower, 5000 HP+. As developed as they were, they were never more efficient than a Diesel Electric Locomotive. A modern steam locomotive required large amounts of maintenance, but their largest downfall was their inability to operate over large distances. If a train was to operate from Chicago to Los Angles (A distance of 2200 miles) it required the steam locomotive to be exchanged nearly every 250 miles as at that point it was nearly out of coal and water, fresh engines were installed and the train continued. In 1934 when the Santa Fe introduced their new train the Super Chief, they for the first time in the history of the world used Diesel Electric Locomotives to haul the train. They were able to shave off the schedule 15 1/2 hours, which was largely made up from the elimination of exchanging steam engines. The Diesel Electric locomotives were able to complete the journey non stop, they received fuel from fuel bins in the leading baggage car of the train. Diesel Electric technology had been developing since the 1890's in the United states and it all came together in 1934 from that point steam traction was finished it was to enjoy an Indian summer throughout the war years. The railways the world over had been in search of that technology since 1927. Once again Quinn, love your videos and keep up the great work. Regards, A Fan from Aus..
So ,,, about a 100 minute time span for engine swap on that particular run? Was it eight or nine switch outs for that run? Always wonder about the math involved.
I'm starting to look forward to your posts as much as Leo and the rebuilding of the *Tally Ho!* It's interesting to see the difference between a plant steam engine and locomotive steam engine (thanks for the referral to *Mr. Crispen* - he's a treasure!).
Hopefully, whenever the "professionals" that tell you what you are doing wrong, you'll know that there are a crapload more people like me, who learn more from your videos than any of the "professionals" have ever taught me! Please keep up the great vids!
As a professional i can tell you it only get's worse there is allways someone knowing something better but aktually just telling shit or he tells something thats outdated like 20 years before but he learned it that way so it has to be that way ... There is allways something you can learn and i guess a hugh pro to "hobbyish" People is that they aktually have to do it by themselfs no matter what
Speaking about complicated steam engines. The Green Bay National Railway Museum has a Union Pacific #4017 - Big Boy and the only A4 Class locomotive in the US. This British locomotive was renamed for Dwight D. Eisenhower after World War II.
Excellent video, Quinn. I have long been want to build a steam locomotive, and I've found your videos on machining very informative and applicable. Thank you!
A bit of a correction on the train history. There may be some direct drive diesel train engines but the majority by far are actually diesel electric. The diesel engine powers a generator and electric motors power the wheels. The big boost in power and a key advantage over steam is that you can couple multiple electric motors to run in sync so then you could use multiple train engines and pull a lot more cars. It's near impossible to use multiple engines that are powered by nonelectric motors because you just can't keep them in sync so they end up fighting each other. But you are 100% correct about the efficiency of steam.
@@Blondihacks I'll ride with "many people" since most people I know refer to them as Diesel Electric, but I know weird people so... But my point of correction was that it wasn't diesel engines getting bigger and stronger it was the ability to synchronise the electric motors that pushed the change from steam. One huge train with four engines means you can axe three crews and save som $.
Hi Quinn, I just read you comment policy linked in the description and it was the most delightful thing I've seen all day. Wonderfully written and so spot on. Well done. Thanks for your vids, your example, and your awesome, self-deprecating style. I'm an even bigger fan now. :)
Quinn, you mentioned the danger of hand-holding items under the drill press and reminded me of a neighbor that unfortunately did it wrong. Unlike you, his part to be drilled was sheet metal (i.e., low-mass) and he was drilling relatively large holes! He had one finger in an already drilled hole (he was drilling multiple holes in an item for a street rod) to hold it and the drill caught/snagged the part. The drill press wrapped his arm around the part and stalled the motor -- fortunately he was still able to reach the off switch! He _almost_ lost the end of his finger and was grounded (he was a pilot) for a couple of months while waiting for his finger to heal. Ouch!! :( Fortunately, his finger healed properly and I think any nerve damage was slight enough for him to still have full use after it healed. Also, please reactivate closed-captioning on your videos for those of us that hard of hearing!
@@dalemcinnes1834 Is that the same as the CC icon that TH-cam puts at the bottom right of the video window that I see _only_ when available? I'm using a laptop to watch these videos, if that makes a difference. Some videos show it and some don't, but I don't know why -- I've simply assumed that Content Creators have to do something to make it available?
no raising into an electrical storm on a special fixture table before first life signs are shown....I am slightly dissapointed. I have several sets of those transfer screws they are very handy especially for reconstructing parts that have both holes and guide pins. Can't wait for the steamy final in this project :D also 2 56 I would be terrified of breathing too hard while tapping those
I've learnt a lot from both Joe Pi and Blondihacks. I haven't actually put much of it into practice, but I've learnt. They have different approaches, and that's good, I don't think that I can say that one is better than the other. They're both giving me *free* expert tuition. What's not to like about that?
@@nicholashacking381 My opinion is that there is no competition to see who’s “best”! It’s also my opinion that pie was WAY out of line to make belittling/disparaging/rude comments! It sounds like classic case of the high school bully who feels threatened. I’m a Blondie Hacker for life!
@@tomt9543 Agreed, I stopped watching him because of it. He always sort of rubbed me the wrong way with his arrogant attitude, but I watched anyway because he clearly has expertise and I could learn a lot from him. But once he started with the condescending and snide remarks it really soured my towards him. Like seriously dude, grow up and stop acting like a child.
Hi Quinn. I just discovered your channel from one of Mr Pete’s videos. I am enjoying your videos a lot. You may have just used the wrong term. At 15:30, you are correct about the steam pressure pushing the slide valve against the inside face of the steam chest. Since the steam pressure is equal on all sides of the valve it can still float around from side to side, so it is not self aligning but is self sealing. I have several steam engine kits to machine and build, but haven’t gotten around to doing any of them yet. I have a Sherline CNC mill and lathe.
I have a full size steam engine 8 inch bore and a 10 inch stoke, similar to your model, I run it with a 40 HP Case steam boiler, it is lubricated with one of the steam condensing water lubricates you are talking about, they use a special steam oil also the cylinder is lubricated with graphite. I enjoy your TH-cam episodes, you are a good teacher.
You are correct about the ratio of mass and weight to the size of the drill bit. Considering the size of that assembly and weight of the angle plate your did just fine. I would not have done it much differently. Problem is far too many of the people criticizing you are armchair quarterbacks. I took my training as a tool and die maker in 1972 and if it means anything to you, I like the way you work. I am retired now and I have discovered you tube. I like your videos. I am going to order that large steam engine you have recently started. Have fun and stay safe.
Reamer in a handheld drill. For those times when precision kinda sorta matters.
Also, running your engine on compressed air is very different from running it on live steam. If you make your engine too precise, heat will make parts expand and the engine will stop, it is really a very fine line between having it run smoothly and not running at all.
I built a few engines, I have no idea why I keep going back to making small intricate parts for tiny machines, it is time consuming, frustrating at times, but it is highly satisfying to see them run at the end.
yes, I hadn't thought of how clearances will change with hot steam compared to air power. the PM 1 really is deserving of a boiler
Making your engine too precise is not the problem. Think about how silly that statement sounds. The problem was the intended design; perhaps the intended clearances/fits should have been loosened to account for expansion of materials under normal operation. If you backed something off by .003, your new "target" dimension is what you aim for, and you want to hit that dimension as accurately / precisely as possible.
@@derekschipper8721 Ok boomer.... 😒
wtf does that have to do with anything
@@derekschipper8721 Wow, ironic that someone so obsessed with accuracy missed the point twice there...
"Vertically in all dimensions" is my new t-shirt motto. Replaces "collapsible backside deburring."
Hi Quinn - i am a retired toolmaker, but not hesitant to check out youtube when starting new projects. again impressed with your steam chest presentation. Just finished my 4th engine build. All from ideas on line, but my own designs. Just had to make this one with a steam chest. Did get some very valuable pointers from you. Much appreciated, Howard
Just came across this video. I started a machinist apprenticeship in 1966 and have been cutting metal since then. I loved the common science approach.
Watching the steam engine come together is super satisfying, you're so meticulous and it pays off
No. It's ODDLY satisfying.
@@kensherwin4544 Nothing odd about it.
Don't know why, but I am starting to get emotionally invested in this project. Lol
You and me both! 😀
@@Blondihacks Are you gonna name it?
@@Blondihacks you should name it "Stanley".🤣
@@Stefan_Boerjesson because there is a carpet cleaning company named Stanley steamer. Lol
Me too 🤩😂
We could never be mad at you...she did what?!?...OH MY GOD! IMPERIAL, METRIC, and yes, WHITWORTH FIST SHAKE!!
Oh, it worked beautifully?
Well of course it did.
Nicely done! We knew you could do it!
That was pretty cool. The whole steam engine is amazing to hamfisted me.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Make a drill guide for your holes. A round blank or square then drill your pattern thru it with all the holes, the big bolt pattern and the small holes, and leave a boss in the center to locate on the casting unless you have the right size pin to locate the center hole. I never use punch marks for close tolerance holes. maybe for an oil pan. Just a different way of doing it. Try a 3 fluted end mill for slots. All I use now is 3 flutes or 5 flutes or 1 flute. Keep it odd Blondi.
Have you ever used a Noxon punch? It's a short prick punch butted up against a short center punch with a tension spring between them. You pull on the one end and the spring drives the other end into the work. They have great feel for lighter marks and enough wallop for deeper ones.
Your skills are incredible. I'm gonna build a very small-scale steam engine for the first time and hear that they can be built imperfectly but still work gave me hope. Thanks.
Well done on your progress . Nothing wrong with transferring holes , it has been done that way for years .After all we are building steam engines not space rockets . I am also pleased to see you know which port the steam comes in and goes out . As for your first comment in vid about “ making the internet mad t you “. Do not worry . Like me you are a hobbyists and we make do with what we have .i assume you do it because you enjoy it and not to belittle others .
"...After all we are building steam engines not space rockets..."
Have you seen what goes down in Boca Chica? I supect they just stick a sharpie though the hole and then drill roughly in the middle of the mark! :-)
That little bit of "Chuffing" at the end of the video was just fantastic. When we build steam engines that's the sound we are waiting to hear, soon it will be Chuffing of steam.
Thank you so much for showing the how the valve works ,the fact that steams cushions ,and the lubrication
I've been fascinated by the complexity of steam locomotives since I saw one in 1957 when I was 3 years old. My parents took a train powered by that steam locomotive from New York City where I was born in Upper Manhattan on May 3rd, 1954, to Cleveland Ohio where my dad's parents lived. I'm also happy to see many old steam locomotives restored and brought back to life. The best one yet is the Union Pacific 'Big Boy' #4014 one of the largest steam locomotives ever built
I like the fact that you used a drill press to drill some decent holes in your project, not everyone has access to fancy tooling or high-end machines and most of us are hobbyist still trying to figure things out. GREAT JOB, you are AWESOME in my book.
Lovely project. Your explanations are almost always clear, complete, useful, and entertaining. Your channel is one of my 3 or 4 favorites for the hobbyist machinist. I agree with so many others here: the internet _loves_ you.
Love your work and particularly that you you let us know when your human infallibility strikes. It makes us feel not so stupid. But I did notice that when you mounted the cylinder with the transfer screws to mark the hole positions, you had the valve chest hanging out the opposite side to that which you chose to finally fit, that’s why you had to loosen up the clearance holes. (7:26) ( right hand side looking from cylinder down to crank and you are mounting left side looking down to crank. ) I spend a lot of time marking up castings with dyfken blue to indicate features, orientations, alignments, pairings etc as well as for marking out. More importantly for anyone running a steam engine on compressed air, you can buy inline air supply lubricators for old style air tools that needed oil mixed in with the air supply. Just search air tool oiler. They are cheap and replace the displacement lubricator when using compressed air and not steam. A MUST HAVE. Steve
But we never _stay_ mad at you, Quinn.
Transfer screws are marvelous. I can really use those in my prototyping work. THANK YOU. Also. GREAT VIDEO. You are a great teacher.
You must be an Engineer. Love the detail in your work and description of how you attack problems. Ignore the complainers, and yes, the internet loves you!
Very nice, clear explanation of steam chest. I will try making one instead of spool valve on my next engine build.
Use an air tool oilier for running a engine on compressed air.
Your precision as a machinist also come through in the precision of your video editing. Thanks for sharing.
That's the best explanation I've ever seen on how steam engines work very informative
Fantastic job! You are solving one tricky problem after another! I learn so much from your videos.
When the engine is done I hope you make a beautiful recreation of a real world installation using model railroad techniques to simulate a masonry base with brass handrails, a dynamo, light and other accessories along with the boiler. . That would be a real masterpiece and heirloom item to cherish.
What I love about Steam engines is that is more of an art than pure presion
Mind blowing ,your verbiage is beyond excellent
One of the best explanations of steam engine slider valves I have ever heard!
Noice!
Some might pooh-pooh the idea of transferring hole positions, but if it works, it works. It's a preferred method of Kozo Hiraoka, so it's certainly good enough for us mortals.
I appreciate your Extremely Concise History of Steam Engineering, very interesting.
Then some people have never dome more then play in the basement. Millwrights who do it for money do it every day as do tool makers. - Just what do the cork sniffers think all the transfer punches and screws ae used for?
You got me almost ready to order a kit for a winter project down here in northern MN. You are doing a great job and at a level us hobbiests can work at ! Thanks Mark
Funny story, I bought I lot of tools from a retiring machinist and found a bunch of those "transfer" screws in his box in a wide variety of diameters and thread pitches. Coming from a fixture design and build background I thought they were just a niffy way to keep around set screws for when you needed. But, now thanks to Quinn I know what they are actually meant for (and the more I think of it, the more it makes sense why they are used in that manner.)
It's great to see how the valve and the steam chest work
i appreciated the info on the differences between steam and compressed air running . not heard it expressed fully elsewhere . thanks
Nice! And you aren’t kidding about the amount of maintenance involved with any steam plant!
This is wonderful, very helpful and interesting. I'm thinking of making a narrow gauge Steam locomotive and build a small narrow gauge railroad around my house. Thank you for existing!!!
Thanks for teaching us. You are important to the world.
Yup, Endmills deflect. but when slotting or cutting keyways, a 2 flute endmill won't widen out the slot like a 4 flute. Nice to see you using the right endmill. Also, could you have hung the base casting off the edge of the mill table to increase the Z space?
Glad you said that. I have a Benchmaster Mill. and there's not much Z space.
Nope, not enough Y travel to do that.
I'm working on this engine also in my spare time, I was a little worried that you might have issues because you steam ports in the chest appeared to long but I need not have worried it works great! Keep up the good work I'm really enjoying it! Now I have to get out to the shop and catch up with you!
Excellent...easy understandable common sense approach to get the job done!!
Forget the internet we all love you and what you do x.
For testing steam engines on air, couldn't you use an inline lubricator like the ones used for air tools?
I was wondering the same exact thing, seems like it would accomplish a similar end goal.
A two bowl air service unit works well with pressure reduction, de-watering the air and adding oil into the air. Particularly if you are running an air compressor for some period of time such as at a show where water can build up in the compressor tank.
There is a second type which fits inline with the tool which is useless for this application as it relies on a drop in air pressure to inject oil in the air. Good for a nail gun but not turbine style tools such as an air grinder.
Note keep the hoses used for running oily air separate from those that you might want to spraypaint with.
Excellent explanation of how the steam valve works. Thanks.
Glad you have kept going after that other youtuber tried to show he was better than you
Arrogance is never better
I actually told TH-cam to stop suggesting his videos after that. There was no need for him to take after Quinn in such a way. It’s almost like he ordered an identical kit so that he could demonstrate his superiority. Quinn never marketed herself as anything more than a hobby-level machinist, although she demonstrates with every video that she is an incredibly intelligent one.
I come to these videos for entertainment, and because the subject is interesting to me. If I were interested in being shown the one-and-only way to get the absolutely most accurate setup, I’d be taking a class rather than watching a TH-cam video. If I ever manage to talk my wife into letting me have a lathe and/or mill, I will also be simply a hobbyist.
Things that I have already learned from watching Quinn:
1) Not everything requires engineer-level precision, and your projects will be more enjoyable and successful if you learn to identify the level of precision necessary for each step.
2) There are a number of ways to achieve the same result. If your shop is not blessed with every piece of high-tech industrial grade equipment available, there are always workarounds if you have the brains to figure them out. They may not always be the most accurate, but re-read #1.
3) If you aren’t having fun with what you’re doing, then your hobby is just... work.
4) There are always ways of presenting your skills without belittling the skills of others. If the only way you know how to make yourself look good is to make someone else look bad by comparison, then you’re not all that good at what you do.
@@mrimmortal1579 Get a lathe and a small mill, you wont regret it, it's the best thing I ever did and keeps me active, cock ups are inevitable lol.
@@mrimmortal1579 actually he said the kit was given to him by a subscriber. His style of machining is always a technical approach (not just in this), and is a project for how to approach some challenging machining situations, while Quinn's build is an interesting project for hobbyists. the 2 really should not be compared but I do wonder about the timing of posting the same project
@@pauls5745 It was given to him by a subscriber, but only AFTER he had done a video where he took the piss out of Quinn's method of making the very first cuts on the casting.
I have been a subscriber and huge fan of his for a while, up until he started his condescending comments about the way things have been done here.
Not everyone has been making aerospace parts for 30 years but he doesn't seem to get that.
I also think there's a certain amount of sexism in the attitude I've seen over there recently, I've stopped watching his videos because of it, and I'm no angel believe me but he's pissed me off with it.
The RIGHT way for him to have done things would have been to make contact with Quinn, and do it as a friendly challenge where he shows the way to do things if you have 30 years of experience and a professional set of tools to work with and Quinn shows how us mere mortal hobbyists with minimal experience and tools do it, rather than "my way is better" and "I've seen it done wrong".
Those castings have a lovely finish.
As clear as mud. I envy the fact that you know what you are talking about.
Keep them coming I am bound to learn something.
Thanks, NJ Mike
Let's say civilisation collapses (and you still have power, by whatever means), steam engines look possible to construct in a home shop, but are combustion engines possible for a hobbyist?
I'm thinking like "with some learning I could recover society to steam level" but no further.
Great lesson on steam engine dynamics, you made it simple to understand, WELL DONE. Cant wait til it's finished and in full operation. Thanks
The eccentric and slide valve configuration is actually really common on full size steam locos :) Where it gets more complicated is having two eccentrics - one forward, one reverse - and a method of combining and graduating the resulting motion between the two with an expansion link.
We're overhauling a full size locomotive at the moment, the components of which look almost exactly like what you're building. Happy to send you some footage/pictures to show your viewers for comparison if you like?
Well, there’s always an eccentric in there somewhere. On models, that’s where it stops.
Thanks for the excellent description of how it all works. I've always been fascinated by RR steam power. Union Pacific has a big presence in Nebraska with a Challenger on static display in Omaha and the Big Boy moving through the area when they have it out for fun. The atmospheric engine they have on display in the British museum is interesting. Talk about a big cylinder! Simple engine.
This is my kind of video, with learning and entertaining facets.
If running on compressed air, couldn't one use an inline lubricator with an appropriate oil? That's what we do with all of the non-oiless pneumatics at work (the "L" in the FRL set). We use Mobil DTE Light oil in our lubricators.
1 option with regards to drilling with an odd size drill bit in collets. I have a size I needed to fit in my mill. I ground down the shank OD to fit a standard collet size. .I just carefully did it by hand on my bench grinder. But I bet a person with a proper cutter grinder could do it in a much more precise mannor. Mine works great after center drilling. Just a thought
What happens if the drill is too small? 😬 All these drills are smaller than my smallest collet.
@@Blondihacks maybe turn a collet adapter/bushing/sleeve on the lathe possibly. Or what I have done on bigger stuff when I blew a dimension, I rolled up a piece of shim stock or thin guage aluminum
If it's 1/8 inch collet, use pieces of 1/8 brass rod, put in lathe, use the drill too drill the hole in centre.. You could soft solder it in place, or simply use a razor saw to slit it lengthwise (one slit will do, ) and the collect will compress the 'tube' and grip the drill. Alternatively, you can get carbide drills for not much cash - reground pcb drills. (and small milling cutters).
As always, great stuff. I'm building some engines from castings without plans. The pocket determines fixed lead and lag while the eccentric provides timing. If the pocket is too wide, the engine will never run: if too narrow ? Perhaps you could help with a formula for the slide valve pocket ? I think 90% works.
Hi Quinn, Great video, I always look forward to your installments and have been following along on the steam engine build since the start of it. You do excellent work, your machining skills are a credit to you, again well done. I felt a need to comment on your channel about your comments on the transition of steam locomotives to Diesel Electric Locomotives, as I felt they were not quite correct. It is true, the 1940's modern steam locomotive was at its pinnacle of its development, and those large articulated steam locomotives packed some serious horsepower, 5000 HP+. As developed as they were, they were never more efficient than a Diesel Electric Locomotive. A modern steam locomotive required large amounts of maintenance, but their largest downfall was their inability to operate over large distances. If a train was to operate from Chicago to Los Angles (A distance of 2200 miles) it required the steam locomotive to be exchanged nearly every 250 miles as at that point it was nearly out of coal and water, fresh engines were installed and the train continued. In 1934 when the Santa Fe introduced their new train the Super Chief, they for the first time in the history of the world used Diesel Electric Locomotives to haul the train. They were able to shave off the schedule 15 1/2 hours, which was largely made up from the elimination of exchanging steam engines. The Diesel Electric locomotives were able to complete the journey non stop, they received fuel from fuel bins in the leading baggage car of the train. Diesel Electric technology had been developing since the 1890's in the United states and it all came together in 1934 from that point steam traction was finished it was to enjoy an Indian summer throughout the war years. The railways the world over had been in search of that technology since 1927. Once again Quinn, love your videos and keep up the great work. Regards, A Fan from Aus..
So ,,, about a 100 minute time span for engine swap on that particular run? Was it eight or nine switch outs for that run? Always wonder about the math involved.
Those threaded transfer punches are wicked.
I'm starting to look forward to your posts as much as Leo and the rebuilding of the *Tally Ho!*
It's interesting to see the difference between a plant steam engine and locomotive steam engine (thanks for the referral to *Mr. Crispen* - he's a treasure!).
Cool - Nice to see that Emma got a shout out !
11:45: in Dutch, an end mill is called a 'vingerfrees'. Aka: finger mil.
With the drill press safety thing, you forgot to mention the ease of which the material cuts. With cast iron, you're not just good, you're great.
This is looking great. I really want to try one of these myself.
This stage of the project is so darn cool! Thanks for sharing it and the bits of history. You make such a lovely story.
Ain't it sweet havin' the right tools to make life easy?
Hopefully, whenever the "professionals" that tell you what you are doing wrong, you'll know that there are a crapload more people like me, who learn more from your videos than any of the "professionals" have ever taught me!
Please keep up the great vids!
As a professional i can tell you it only get's worse there is allways someone knowing something better but aktually just telling shit or he tells something thats outdated like 20 years before but he learned it that way so it has to be that way ...
There is allways something you can learn and i guess a hugh pro to "hobbyish" People is that they aktually have to do it by themselfs no matter what
its good to see that your also learning as you go along, mint(means good in the UK, you know "it looks mint to watch"
Love these videos now I’m thinking of redesigning my seam engine that I made in high school putting a steam box on it
Hi Quinn, you could always use an airline lubricator like those employed with industrial air tools.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice craftsmanship, your engine is really looking fantastic, watched and very much enjoyed.
It is coming together nicely. I look forward to seeing it in operation,
Quinn, the Internet is *always* angry. That's the key to its power, how it becomes a huge virtual rage monster at the drop of a drill bit. ;)
Don’t mind the internet! Love your content and your setups.
Speaking as an English person, you get a “like” just for slot bonnet/lorry drill!
I am really looking forward to seeing what things you do with this steam engine once its done
Very exciting! Looking forward to the eccentric in particular. Many thanks!
Thanks Quinn, it's looking great!
Speaking about complicated steam engines.
The Green Bay National Railway Museum has a Union Pacific #4017 - Big Boy and the only A4 Class locomotive in the US. This British locomotive was renamed for Dwight D. Eisenhower after World War II.
Not all of the internet is mad at you--many of us really like your videos!
Excellent video, Quinn. I have long been want to build a steam locomotive, and I've found your videos on machining very informative and applicable.
Thank you!
It's kind of fun watching someone make something about the same way I would :) And you know it works now!
A bit of a correction on the train history. There may be some direct drive diesel train engines but the majority by far are actually diesel electric. The diesel engine powers a generator and electric motors power the wheels. The big boost in power and a key advantage over steam is that you can couple multiple electric motors to run in sync so then you could use multiple train engines and pull a lot more cars. It's near impossible to use multiple engines that are powered by nonelectric motors because you just can't keep them in sync so they end up fighting each other. But you are 100% correct about the efficiency of steam.
Yes I know they’re diesel-electric. But everyone calls them “diesels”
Also diesel hydraulics, usually in industrial settings where they don’t go far but move heavy loads for their size.
@@Blondihacks I'll ride with "many people" since most people I know refer to them as Diesel Electric, but I know weird people so... But my point of correction was that it wasn't diesel engines getting bigger and stronger it was the ability to synchronise the electric motors that pushed the change from steam. One huge train with four engines means you can axe three crews and save som $.
G’Day Quinn, It’s a slot drill here in Australia and should be everywhere on the planet. Terminology is important. Regards Dave
Every country has their own opinions on what things “should” be called. Funny how that works.
Running beautifully.
Wow nice to see it in motion
Great!!! Reminds me of building my two steam engines several years ago. They can be found here on TH-cam too.
Hi Quinn, I just read you comment policy linked in the description and it was the most delightful thing I've seen all day. Wonderfully written and so spot on. Well done. Thanks for your vids, your example, and your awesome, self-deprecating style. I'm an even bigger fan now. :)
Nice to know someone reads it 😁
Quinn, you mentioned the danger of hand-holding items under the drill press and reminded me of a neighbor that unfortunately did it wrong. Unlike you, his part to be drilled was sheet metal (i.e., low-mass) and he was drilling relatively large holes! He had one finger in an already drilled hole (he was drilling multiple holes in an item for a street rod) to hold it and the drill caught/snagged the part. The drill press wrapped his arm around the part and stalled the motor -- fortunately he was still able to reach the off switch! He _almost_ lost the end of his finger and was grounded (he was a pilot) for a couple of months while waiting for his finger to heal. Ouch!! :( Fortunately, his finger healed properly and I think any nerve damage was slight enough for him to still have full use after it healed.
Also, please reactivate closed-captioning on your videos for those of us that hard of hearing!
You can activate that yourself by using the CC button at the top right corner of your screen.
Dale in Canada
@@dalemcinnes1834 Is that the same as the CC icon that TH-cam puts at the bottom right of the video window that I see _only_ when available? I'm using a laptop to watch these videos, if that makes a difference. Some videos show it and some don't, but I don't know why -- I've simply assumed that Content Creators have to do something to make it available?
You sure know your way around steam engines!. Great job as always.
Time to get an ER40 collet chuck for your mill and lathe, once you have the chucks one set of collets will do for both. It is money well spent
Another outstanding video Quinn. I am learning so much. I especially enjoyed the explanation of the steam engine's operation. Thank You.
Now, I'll have go back and find all the videos on this project! Very good Quinn
There’s a Playlist on my channel (linked at the end of the video too)
no raising into an electrical storm on a special fixture table before first life signs are shown....I am slightly dissapointed. I have several sets of those transfer screws they are very handy especially for reconstructing parts that have both holes and guide pins. Can't wait for the steamy final in this project :D also 2 56 I would be terrified of breathing too hard while tapping those
Another blondihacks video that’s incredibly informative and educational! Thanks Quinn
At least I'm learning a little more about steam engines with your explanations as we go along, it make you wonder if we left steam tech too soon.
I am really enjoying this series. Thanks for sharing.
Pretty good explanation of how a steam engine works, Quinn !!!
Quinn, I'm gonna try and snipe you to do a series on valve gears. You'll especially want to take a close look at the caprotti variant.... Have fun!
Hi Quinn,
Nicely explained how the steam engine works... Thank you.
Take care
Paul,,
Much nicer than watching Joe Pie building one.
Quinn will have to ramp up her "belittle others" game for it to be a fair comparison.
A truer statement has never been written! We love you Quinn!
I've learnt a lot from both Joe Pi and Blondihacks. I haven't actually put much of it into practice, but I've learnt. They have different approaches, and that's good, I don't think that I can say that one is better than the other. They're both giving me *free* expert tuition. What's not to like about that?
@@nicholashacking381 My opinion is that there is no competition to see who’s “best”! It’s also my opinion that pie was WAY out of line to make belittling/disparaging/rude comments! It sounds like classic case of the high school bully who feels threatened. I’m a Blondie Hacker for life!
@@tomt9543 Agreed, I stopped watching him because of it. He always sort of rubbed me the wrong way with his arrogant attitude, but I watched anyway because he clearly has expertise and I could learn a lot from him. But once he started with the condescending and snide remarks it really soured my towards him. Like seriously dude, grow up and stop acting like a child.
Hi Quinn. I just discovered your channel from one of Mr Pete’s videos. I am enjoying your videos a lot. You may have just used the wrong term. At 15:30, you are correct about the steam pressure pushing the slide valve against the inside face of the steam chest. Since the steam pressure is equal on all sides of the valve it can still float around from side to side, so it is not self aligning but is self sealing. I have several steam engine kits to machine and build, but haven’t gotten around to doing any of them yet. I have a Sherline CNC mill and lathe.
It is self-aligning because the steam pressure aligns the valve surface to the port face surface.