Haha. Upon further review yes to the music but great choice of music. No distraction at all. Keep doing your thing. Thanks for your editing skills. You toned down the music perfectly at the right time. You obviously have multiple skills. 👍
This is the simplest and best explained 5 cut method for building a cross cut sled. I appreciate the teaching without the self deprecating humor and silly garbage to many "experts" use to entertain. This is why the comedy channel exists ! Well done.!!!
"Now I won't bore you with the details" (proceeds to give the most clearly understandable demonstration of the 5-cut method ever) Me: "Oh, I get it now"
Agreed. That's the best 5-cut explanation I've seen. Often, the simplest explanation is the best - Occam's razor - and this one made the math easy to understand.
Simple explanations. That’s the way everyone doing TH-cam videos should do. Some make it sound much more complicated than it has to be. I guess they are trying to make themselves look brilliant. Thanks for making user friendly videos.
Thank you! I agree, some people are making things way too complicated just for the sake of the video. I'm hoping to help people make better projects, not overly complex contraptions that don't serve much purpose.
Great job of explaining the math for how to arrive at the amount you need to move the fence. I don't think I've seen other videos with the math broken down in detail like that!
You can add those if you like, I’ve just never had a need for them and I think they over complicate the jig. If I need to cut small parts I’ll use a pencil to hold them or set up a clamp.
That 5-cut method is pure gold. I always wondered how to get a crosscut sled to be that accurate. I made one that was "good enough" for some simple framing, but I could never use it for anything that required any real accuracy. Thanks.
Thank you for giving William Ng credit for the five cut method. He’s a master woodworker and deserves the credit that is so often is overlooked. All the best, Chuck
So many Table Saw Sled videos lose me at the complexity they add to them. This one Simple and exactly what you need. And you got the comment and thumbs up because of the stop block bit! Great job.
Nice job explaining William Ng's method. I just yesterday came across his 11 year old video on this topic. I especially like the way you marked the A and B on the 5th cut, and explained by way of example and simple analysis which way to rotate the fence to bring it into alignment. You are a skilled teacher. My only suggestion to others building a sled would be to clamp the fence in position once you have inserted the feeler gages to make the 0.013" adjustment, and before you install the next screw. Keep up the good work, you have a natural teaching talent.
I agree. Seems like the fence moved slightly when the screw went in, which is pretty common. Otherwise, great video, I am going to make this tomorrow, and subscribe to your channel.
@@anphan3208 Start with the corner block and feeler gauges against the fence and clamp the block in place. Remove the feeler gauges and the screw and push the fence against the corner block. Insert new screw. So, instead of adding the feeler gauges as in the video, you're subtracting the feeler gauges.
This is easily the best representation of the 5-cut method for squaring your crosscut front fence. I've seen a LOT of crosscut sled videos and your explanation was the best I've seen. Most other TH-camrs just gloss over the math, and some even skip the step of multiplying by the length between screws. And I agree about avoiding hardwoods for your miter slots, as I live in a high-humidity area....I use aluminum miter bars or HDPE miter bars (which is sometimes cheaper than aluminum, esp. on Amazon). However, due to high humidity after a few years, my double-thick front fence began to bow inward (concave looking down). So I upgraded and added one of those aluminum "super" tracks from Woodpeckers, which has made a world of difference. Not only perfectly straight, but the additional track grooves allow multiple options for adding stops or additional accessories.
Thanks! An aluminum fence is a good idea unless you have a SawStop. My monster sled had an aluminum fence and I was always worried about tripping the blade break if it was too close to the.
Years ago I worked in a machine shop that manufactured small parts for aerospace products. Accuracy was imperative and the tolerances were usually plus or minus 10 thousandths of an inch which is the thickness of a human hair. I appreciate your attention to perfection, however in regard to woodworking, a human hair off from perfect is perfect.
Seems to me you explained a lot about the details of assembling this sled, but a big question I have, and I have watched many "sled" videos, is what factors to take into consideration when determining the dimensions, the base thickness, the base material, the far fence function, the shapes and height (not heighth - a pet peeve of mine) of the far and near fences, etc. I think the parameters that need to be considered when building a sled for a particular saw are more useful than a set of plans for a specific saw. I know I struggled with these questions this week when I built my first sled for a cabinet door project I am currently working on. Also, there appears to be some magic in determining the offset from the blade cut line to the left and right sides of the sled, but I'll be damned if I can understand the magic - any enlightenment you could provide on this topic should appeal to your viewers. Again, great work, keep it up.
@@psmola101 No magic needed! For the base material you want it to be flat and stable so a sheet of plywood is perfect. I've tried 1/2" plywood and it has more tendency to warp, so I prefer 3/4" plywood. The far fence is needed to hold the sled together. Without it that end of the sled would just flop around not only making the sled inaccurate but very dangerous to use. The height of the fences needs to be higher than you will run the blade so that you don't ever cut all the way through them. 4" is a good number since table saws typically don't cut that high. As for how far to the left and right of the blade the sled should go, it's really up to your preference. You can go as wide in either direction as you want to go, it's just going to make a much larger and heavier sled. Same for depth of the sled from front to back. Go as wide as you need without making the sled too massive to use. Hope that helps!
A friend of mine is a retired structural engineer. He made me one very similiter, but he used thick aluminum plate and extruded aluminum bar that was fiberglass coated used several "T" tracks, I have had it for almost 9 years, it is .00001 out of perfect square, I can also adjust if it ever were to get out of square, surprisingly it is quite lite. It also has several gigs I can use with to to make box joints, miter cuts & so much more.. I myself am a retired Master Carpenter.. I only use my shop, now to teach my grandchildren carpentry.. And I do occasional projects.. My children & grandchildren use the shop 90% of the time.. Thank you for sharing.. I wish we had the internet and TH-cam back when I was active working the trade...
You can turn the stop feature off. There is an inherent increase in safety when using a crosscut sled (no cut on a saw is completely safe!), so a metal sled should be no problem. Having said that, my sleds will always be wood, not metal or melamine.
@@harveyalan788 It's a bit of a hassle to go into bypass mode on the Sawstop and you have to go through that procedure every time the saw is stopped and restarted. Possible, sure. But I bet someone would go through a lot of blades and brakes trying to use a metal sled.
When in woodworking would you need to be that accurate? I was a machinist for 38 years. I did first articles for the Government. Never have heard of having to measure that tight. Helicopter rotors are allowed.005 runout. As in the other comment “ good grief “!
Great video! Liked the explanation of the 5 cut method because it summarized it in a way that I can easily make use of it instead of turning it into a science project. Thank you for the content!
Great video. Very well explained, to the point, and more importantly, not a second wasted on jibber jabber. I love the clear & simple 5-cut method explanation and how you made fun of yourself with the cut-block. Well done buddy.
I've used a crosscut sled of this basic design for many years and I'll testify it is really good. A real plus in your method is to apply a chamfer on to the back fence. Good idea. Excellent video and well presented!
I can't tell you how many cross cut sled videos I've watched over the years, and I've build quite a few as well. This is probably the most straight forward, concise video I've seen. You explanations are clear and detailed, yet straight to the point. As others have mentioned, this is especially true in your explanation of the five cut method. I've seen many botched explanations of that process. Great job! I'm now a subscriber.
Agreed! Your explanation of the 5 cut method is excellent. A very nice and clear video. Your editing skills are superb. I need to make mine soon. Shop reorganization in progress.
Excellent video, very well explained with some great engineering practices. I have never thought about making a sled, but may now. Good work............
My sled is similar in size and construction and includes the Katz-Moses stop block. I did add T-track parallel to the blade on both sides of the blade. The t-track is about 14" long and 6" from the blade. This allows me to have an adjustable clamp to hold down wood when necessary and I also often clamp my shop vac hose with the floor attachment attached to suck up sawdust as I cut. I did learn a few things from your video for my next build. Well done!
I’ve been putting off building one of these because of the five cut method. I’m horrible with maths like that, but your explanation gave me that “ah ha” moment, and I finally understand it. Time to build a sled. Thank you sir!!!
Really great video. It was clear and concise. I’ve never seen that 5 cut method for squareness, I really love it. I’ve wanted to build a cross cut sled for some time. I think I’m ready.
For safety, it's very important to add some type of positive stop to the forward movement of the sled, so that the saw-blade will NEVER fully cut through the glued on "safety housing" shown in this video. This is particularly important when trimming thick parts, such as table legs, when the saw-blade is near full height extension.
😂 this was/is the best video I have seen so far for the 5 cut. Explanation was fantastic, now I can go and adjust mine with out using Sheldon math! Brilliant, thank you. 🤙
Nice job and better explanation. Between 10:10 and 10:17 I did the math mentally and my answer was 0.016 but I saw yours and went running for the mobile to check mine. I believe that your first trial was correct enough.
Good content, thanks. I have a narrower (front to back) sled used for cutting structural pieces rather than panels. The narrower size means that I could put a perspex cover above the line of the blade, wide enough to reduce the likelihood of touching the blade but without impeding the ability to hold pieces against the fence.
Thanks for the video. I too prefer a simple crosscut sled. Nice demonstration of explaining how to determine which direction to move the fence to achieve square. I like my big sled to overhang the edge of the saw a couple of inches on the left. This allows using a clamp to hold the fence during the initial build vs using the screw. I also find it handy to be able to clamp on this edge without interfering with the sled movement from time to time too.
A lot of TH-cam woodworking channels over complicate the design trying to grab attention and views. I really think a simple, accurate sled is one of the best tools you can have in your shop.
I just ran across your channel and was impressed by the way you presented the video. Very informative. Great miter sled. I am looking forward to looking at your other videos. Great Job!
I have a sawstop slider. I used 3m spray adhesive to put a strip of 150 grit sand paper on the fence. Nothing has ever slipped again while cross cutting. Should work perfectly on this one too.
When I grow up I'm going to get a table saw like yours. Aside: 4:50 I bought the Harbor Freight oscillating sander. It's exactly the same thing as the Ridgid, but 1/2 the price. I use it frequently and have no issues with it.
I had heard a lot of good things about the Ridgid oscillating sander. It’s ok for rough work but not very accurate. I may upgrade to a floor standing model at some point. I’ve been doing this for a long time now so I’m getting away from cheap tools and investing in higher quality tools that do a better job.
Great, nice, simple video! I’ve made two sleds so far and used them both for 10 years but watched anyway because you always get something from a how-to video. What I got from yours was that the fence measurement should be from the pivot screw to the other END of the fence (not to the other end screw) I’ve never seen that clarified in other videos, also, anything under 0.00 is good enough (I’ve always shot for under .004). you’re right, quit chasing zero, wood moves. Here’s something about runners I’ve always wondered about: if you glued the one nearest the fence first, fix it with screws, and then glued the second one without the fence, but with slight pressure applied to the sled to the right until the glue cures, your runners would be exactly right and the correct tightness regardless of how narrow or wide the runners were ( if you cut your own) in the slots …right? You’ve inspired me to build a cute,little, mini sled for my gift boxes, thanks.
For the miter bars, I got a cheap cutting board from Walmart that measured to be the correct thickness. Cut them at the table saw. Perfect. They won't expand or contract.
I'm impressed by the method and precision to make it square. Personally, and for probably a lot of us, that would have ended with a hammer tap 😅. I'll save that video for later. Maybe I really need to be more precise with the tools I use everyday to be precise...though.
You measured the fence adjustment from one end to the other, 34” I think you said. However, it pivots on the right screw, so measure from the screw position. It’s picky, I know, but some folks might have placed the right screw further in. You got great results and like your video.
@@biscuittreewoodworks, I feel like such a dunce. This isn’t the first time I have needed to be set straight. Thanks for responding and keep up the great work.
Simple and effective... all that I need. The only change I *may* make/add... a couple Dovetail slots in the base to allow me to slide in some (MicroJig) MatchFit clamps if I need to secure/hold parts down as I cut. Possibly cut an an angle from the back fence area side towards the blade kerf on the front fence area, so it can easily handle large to small parts, yet the dovetail portion of the clamp can't run into the blade. Cut before assembling the front fence of course.
Just don't use anything that contains silicone oil if you are planning to add a finish to your cut pieces. It can really interfere with getting a uniform coat (found out the hard way).
Clear concise instructions with excellent editing. I recently had to relocate and build a shop 1/4 the size of my last one. That meant making a new, smaller sled. I, too, bought T-track for runners. I planned to use them like you did but was going to flip them the other way to eliminate the need for chamfering the screw holes. Is there a reason not to do it this way?
Maybe you just used the wrong term, but the runners on the bottom are miter bars, not t-tracks! Don’t mix those up because t-track will not fit inside the miter slots!
Plans are available here! www.biscuittreewoodworks.com/plans/p/the-essential-crosscut-jig-plans
Haha. Upon further review yes to the music but great choice of music. No distraction at all. Keep doing your thing. Thanks for your editing skills. You toned down the music perfectly at the right time. You obviously have multiple skills. 👍
I try my best, thanks!
This is the simplest and best explained 5 cut method for building a cross cut sled. I appreciate the teaching without the self deprecating humor and silly garbage to many "experts" use to entertain. This is why the comedy channel exists ! Well done.!!!
Thanks! I drop some humor from time to time but try to focus on delivering the best woodworking information I can!
"Now I won't bore you with the details" (proceeds to give the most clearly understandable demonstration of the 5-cut method ever)
Me: "Oh, I get it now"
Great! I’m glad it was helpful!
Yeah - I've seen others get into the math so much that the method get lost in the message.
I only do math under protest.
😁
Agreed. That's the best 5-cut explanation I've seen. Often, the simplest explanation is the best - Occam's razor - and this one made the math easy to understand.
Simple explanations. That’s the way everyone doing TH-cam videos should do. Some make it sound much more complicated than it has to be. I guess they are trying to make themselves look brilliant. Thanks for making user friendly videos.
Thank you! I agree, some people are making things way too complicated just for the sake of the video. I'm hoping to help people make better projects, not overly complex contraptions that don't serve much purpose.
Great job of explaining the math for how to arrive at the amount you need to move the fence. I don't think I've seen other videos with the math broken down in detail like that!
Glad it was helpful!
Great presentation of a fit-for-purpose, accurate crosscut sled with no "ultimate" hype. Your demonstration of the 5 cut method is very clear.
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Great video. One addition i find invaluable in my sled is t-slots for shop-made hold down clamps to make cutting small parts safe and accurate.
You can add those if you like, I’ve just never had a need for them and I think they over complicate the jig. If I need to cut small parts I’ll use a pencil to hold them or set up a clamp.
@@biscuittreewoodworks wow I use them constantly. Would not cut small parts without them. To each his own.
That 5-cut method is pure gold. I always wondered how to get a crosscut sled to be that accurate. I made one that was "good enough" for some simple framing, but I could never use it for anything that required any real accuracy. Thanks.
Great! Glad the explanation was helpful!
Thank you for giving William Ng credit for the five cut method. He’s a master woodworker and deserves the credit that is so often is overlooked.
All the best, Chuck
Possibly the best description of how to setup a table sled that I've ever seen. Thank you I will use this method.
Awesome, thank you! If you're interested in PDF plans for this sled, I'm releasing them on my website tomorrow!
biscuittreewoodworks.com
Thanks for making Ng's five cut method understandable!
Glad it's helpful!
So many Table Saw Sled videos lose me at the complexity they add to them. This one Simple and exactly what you need. And you got the comment and thumbs up because of the stop block bit! Great job.
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
Nice job explaining William Ng's method. I just yesterday came across his 11 year old video on this topic. I especially like the way you marked the A and B on the 5th cut, and explained by way of example and simple analysis which way to rotate the fence to bring it into alignment. You are a skilled teacher. My only suggestion to others building a sled would be to clamp the fence in position once you have inserted the feeler gages to make the 0.013" adjustment, and before you install the next screw.
Keep up the good work, you have a natural teaching talent.
Thank you!
I agree with your take on the video, and also with your suggestion to others.
Good work all around, imho.
I agree. Seems like the fence moved slightly when the screw went in, which is pretty common. Otherwise, great video, I am going to make this tomorrow, and subscribe to your channel.
Great Video. The absolute best/simplest description of the 5 cut method I've heard yet. Thank you.
Thanks!
What happens if “a” needs to be bigger than “b”, do you just remove the other screw instead?
@@anphan3208 Start with the corner block and feeler gauges against the fence and clamp the block in place. Remove the feeler gauges and the screw and push the fence against the corner block. Insert new screw.
So, instead of adding the feeler gauges as in the video, you're subtracting the feeler gauges.
Great video! Probably the best demo/explanation of the 5-cut method I’ve seen.
Wow, thanks!
This is easily the best representation of the 5-cut method for squaring your crosscut front fence. I've seen a LOT of crosscut sled videos and your explanation was the best I've seen. Most other TH-camrs just gloss over the math, and some even skip the step of multiplying by the length between screws. And I agree about avoiding hardwoods for your miter slots, as I live in a high-humidity area....I use aluminum miter bars or HDPE miter bars (which is sometimes cheaper than aluminum, esp. on Amazon). However, due to high humidity after a few years, my double-thick front fence began to bow inward (concave looking down). So I upgraded and added one of those aluminum "super" tracks from Woodpeckers, which has made a world of difference. Not only perfectly straight, but the additional track grooves allow multiple options for adding stops or additional accessories.
Thanks! An aluminum fence is a good idea unless you have a SawStop. My monster sled had an aluminum fence and I was always worried about tripping the blade break if it was too close to the.
@@biscuittreewoodworks You're right, I never thought about a SawStop. I've never had the "spondulix" to afford one of those, lol.
@babounous No - it's not - William Ng is
th-cam.com/video/UbG-n--LFgQ/w-d-xo.html
At 13.00 you could see the pilot hole drill move the fence. Oops!
Very cool. I always heard about the 5-cut method but this is the first time I actually understood, great explanation!
Great to hear!
Years ago I worked in a machine shop that manufactured small parts for aerospace products. Accuracy was imperative and the tolerances were usually plus or minus 10 thousandths of an inch which is the thickness of a human hair. I appreciate your attention to perfection, however in regard to woodworking, a human hair off from perfect is perfect.
I used to be a machinist as well back in an earlier life and I've been an engineer for many years. I obsess more than is necessary about tolerances.
I don't have any plans for this cross cut sled, but if there's enough interest I'll make some. Let me know!
Does this mean no maths then?
Bob
England
Seems to me you explained a lot about the details of assembling this sled, but a big question I have, and I have watched many "sled" videos, is what factors to take into consideration when determining the dimensions, the base thickness, the base material, the far fence function, the shapes and height (not heighth - a pet peeve of mine) of the far and near fences, etc. I think the parameters that need to be considered when building a sled for a particular saw are more useful than a set of plans for a specific saw. I know I struggled with these questions this week when I built my first sled for a cabinet door project I am currently working on. Also, there appears to be some magic in determining the offset from the blade cut line to the left and right sides of the sled, but I'll be damned if I can understand the magic - any enlightenment you could provide on this topic should appeal to your viewers.
Again, great work, keep it up.
@@psmola101 No magic needed!
For the base material you want it to be flat and stable so a sheet of plywood is perfect. I've tried 1/2" plywood and it has more tendency to warp, so I prefer 3/4" plywood.
The far fence is needed to hold the sled together. Without it that end of the sled would just flop around not only making the sled inaccurate but very dangerous to use.
The height of the fences needs to be higher than you will run the blade so that you don't ever cut all the way through them. 4" is a good number since table saws typically don't cut that high.
As for how far to the left and right of the blade the sled should go, it's really up to your preference. You can go as wide in either direction as you want to go, it's just going to make a much larger and heavier sled. Same for depth of the sled from front to back. Go as wide as you need without making the sled too massive to use.
Hope that helps!
@@psmola101 Heighth!! Crikey me too……how did it get started?
Bob
England
A Mier Guage can act as the base for a sled.
A friend of mine is a retired structural engineer. He made me one very similiter, but he used thick aluminum plate and extruded aluminum bar that was fiberglass coated used several "T" tracks, I have had it for almost 9 years, it is .00001 out of perfect square, I can also adjust if it ever were to get out of square, surprisingly it is quite lite. It also has several gigs I can use with to to make box joints, miter cuts & so much more.. I myself am a retired Master Carpenter.. I only use my shop, now to teach my grandchildren carpentry.. And I do occasional projects.. My children & grandchildren use the shop 90% of the time..
Thank you for sharing.. I wish we had the internet and TH-cam back when I was active working the trade...
That would be fine on most saws, but pretty sure you couldn't use that on a Sawstop.
You can turn the stop feature off. There is an inherent increase in safety when using a crosscut sled (no cut on a saw is completely safe!), so a metal sled should be no problem. Having said that, my sleds will always be wood, not metal or melamine.
@@harveyalan788 It's a bit of a hassle to go into bypass mode on the Sawstop and you have to go through that procedure every time the saw is stopped and restarted. Possible, sure. But I bet someone would go through a lot of blades and brakes trying to use a metal sled.
You can’t even measure .00001 out of square. Good grief.
When in woodworking would you need to be that accurate? I was a machinist for 38 years. I did first articles for the Government. Never have heard of having to measure that tight. Helicopter rotors are allowed.005 runout. As in the other comment “ good grief “!
I like your attention to safety and accuracy. Great video, thanks.
Great! Thanks for watching!
Great video! Liked the explanation of the 5 cut method because it summarized it in a way that I can easily make use of it instead of turning it into a science project. Thank you for the content!
Awesome, thank you!
LOL, loved the stop-block bit. That was funny.
I also think the sled is nice, simple, and functional. Great job🤓
Thank you! I had a lot of fun with that part!
Excellent presentation and explanation of the 5-cut method!
Glad you liked it!!
Great video. Very well explained, to the point, and more importantly, not a second wasted on jibber jabber. I love the clear & simple 5-cut method explanation and how you made fun of yourself with the cut-block. Well done buddy.
Glad it was helpful!
thanks for that,
that's the best description of the FIVE CUT METHOD as I've seen so far.
thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
I've used a crosscut sled of this basic design for many years and I'll testify it is really good. A real plus in your method is to apply a chamfer on to the back fence. Good idea. Excellent video and well presented!
Thank you!
First well explained how that five point adjust works without confusion. Well done, thanks
Glad it helped!
I can't tell you how many cross cut sled videos I've watched over the years, and I've build quite a few as well. This is probably the most straight forward, concise video I've seen. You explanations are clear and detailed, yet straight to the point. As others have mentioned, this is especially true in your explanation of the five cut method. I've seen many botched explanations of that process. Great job! I'm now a subscriber.
Thank you!
Very clear, concise and meaningful explanation of your process. Thank you for making everything so understandable.
Great work my friend!
Thanks for stopping by! Loving the stop block so far!
I really like the simplicity of design and function balanced with cost effectiveness!
Awesome video!
Well done, Sir!
Thank you very much!
I appreciate this video as much as I was entertained by it. Keep doing what you’re doing. This is great!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I really appreciate the clear, concise lesson here. Thank you, Sir!
You're very welcome!
Excellent adjustment process - truly. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Agreed! Your explanation of the 5 cut method is excellent. A very nice and clear video. Your editing skills are superb. I need to make mine soon. Shop reorganization in progress.
Thank you!
Excellent video, very well explained with some great engineering practices. I have never thought about making a sled, but may now. Good work............
Thanks! I use my sled all the time!
Wow, an excellent presentation and explanation. I am a teacher and you have a knack for explaining this complex task.🙂
Thank you! 😃
Great video and explanation of the five cut method.
Thank you!
My sled is similar in size and construction and includes the Katz-Moses stop block. I did add T-track parallel to the blade on both sides of the blade. The t-track is about 14" long and 6" from the blade. This allows me to have an adjustable clamp to hold down wood when necessary and I also often clamp my shop vac hose with the floor attachment attached to suck up sawdust as I cut. I did learn a few things from your video for my next build. Well done!
Awesome! Sounds like a good sled!
I’ve been putting off building one of these because of the five cut method. I’m horrible with maths like that, but your explanation gave me that “ah ha” moment, and I finally understand it. Time to build a sled. Thank you sir!!!
Awesome! Glad I could help!
Has to be the best video on making a cross cut sled. Great job!! Subscribed.
Thank you!
Very good presentation young man
Thanks!
Really great video. It was clear and concise. I’ve never seen that 5 cut method for squareness, I really love it. I’ve wanted to build a cross cut sled for some time. I think I’m ready.
Glad it was helpful!
Great representation! Thank you from Russia.
Thank you very much!
I will be building a sled soon, will use this tutorial to do so. 👍
Awesome! Enjoy!
Awesome video man. Such a smile breakdown of a well made sled and the 5 cut method. Thank you! 🇺🇸
Thank you!
I just completed making a small parts sled for my new to me table saw. My other sled is large. I'm sure I will be using the small one the most.
Smaller sleds can be more useful, I have a smaller one that I have set up just for dado cuts.
Very well explained, especially the 5 cut method of truing the cut. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Best video to explain how to adjust the fence!
Thanks! 👍
For safety, it's very important to add some type of positive stop to the forward movement of the sled, so that the saw-blade will NEVER fully cut through the glued on "safety housing" shown in this video. This is particularly important when trimming thick parts, such as table legs, when the saw-blade is near full height extension.
To achieve that, I have slots cut into the outfeed table that can prevent the miter bars from going too far.
Thanks. A lot of really good tips for me to digest and use for my new sled
Glad it’s helpful!
Sweet. Thanks for sharing, and blessings, from this old man in Tennessee.
Thanks for watching!
LOL'ed at the very end when you were talking about stop block being beautiful and red. 😂 Just for that it was worth watching the whole video
Awesome! Glad you liked it!
😂 this was/is the best video I have seen so far for the 5 cut. Explanation was fantastic, now I can go and adjust mine with out using Sheldon math! Brilliant, thank you. 🤙
Glad it helped!
I have watched many videos on this subject, this was the best by far. Very good instruction!
Thank you!
Nice job and better explanation. Between 10:10 and 10:17 I did the math mentally and my answer was 0.016 but I saw yours and went running for the mobile to check mine. I believe that your first trial was correct enough.
Yes, the first attempt was probably good enough, but then I couldn't show you how to make the adjustments for better accuracy if you needed to.
Wow! You explained all of that so well! Thank you!!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Good job. Great tutorial. I'll be using your method.
Thanks! I'm glad it's helpful!
I've got plans available if you want to print them out and have in the shop! www.biscuittreewoodworks.com/products
Good content, thanks.
I have a narrower (front to back) sled used for cutting structural pieces rather than panels. The narrower size means that I could put a perspex cover above the line of the blade, wide enough to reduce the likelihood of touching the blade but without impeding the ability to hold pieces against the fence.
Sounds great!
great demonstration of the 5 cut method.
Thanks!
Great demonstration of the five cut method. First time that I truly understand it 🧐💡and can apply to my crosscut sled build.
Awesome! Glad to hear it!
Thanks for the video. I too prefer a simple crosscut sled.
Nice demonstration of explaining how to determine which direction to move the fence to achieve square.
I like my big sled to overhang the edge of the saw a couple of inches on the left. This allows using a clamp to hold the fence during the initial build vs using the screw. I also find it handy to be able to clamp on this edge without interfering with the sled movement from time to time too.
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Very well presented. Kept it simple. Thank you. I will be using your method to create my sled
A lot of TH-cam woodworking channels over complicate the design trying to grab attention and views. I really think a simple, accurate sled is one of the best tools you can have in your shop.
Thanks again. I will make one like this.
Awesome!
BRILLIANT!!
Thanks!
I just ran across your channel and was impressed by the way you presented the video. Very informative. Great miter sled. I am looking forward to looking at your other videos.
Great Job!
Awesome, thank you!
That’s precision. Love it.
Thanks!
best sled video i ever sawed
Thanks!
You got me there with the stop block. 😂
🤣
I have a sawstop slider. I used 3m spray adhesive to put a strip of 150 grit sand paper on the fence. Nothing has ever slipped again while cross cutting. Should work perfectly on this one too.
👍
I cut dovetails slots into my crosscut sled to add MicroJig clamps so I can clamp down smaller pieces that need cutting.
I thought about adding t-track for clamps but I’ve never needed to clamp anything down to the sled.
Best explanation scene to date!
Thanks!
Excellent video
Thanks!
When I grow up I'm going to get a table saw like yours. Aside: 4:50 I bought the Harbor Freight oscillating sander. It's exactly the same thing as the Ridgid, but 1/2 the price. I use it frequently and have no issues with it.
I had heard a lot of good things about the Ridgid oscillating sander. It’s ok for rough work but not very accurate. I may upgrade to a floor standing model at some point. I’ve been doing this for a long time now so I’m getting away from cheap tools and investing in higher quality tools that do a better job.
What a great vid, he make it so simple.
Thanks!
Very useful video, thank you.
You are welcome!
Lol I loved the stop block humor at the end
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Well done, good and educational video. Thank you Will have to return to see your other videos. Thanks
Awesome, thank you!
Excellent video, thanks. Straight forward and well presented. I subscribed.
Thank you!
Great, nice, simple video! I’ve made two sleds so far and used them both for 10 years but watched anyway because you always get something from a how-to video. What I got from yours was that the fence measurement should be from the pivot screw to the other END of the fence (not to the other end screw) I’ve never seen that clarified in other videos, also, anything under 0.00 is good enough (I’ve always shot for under .004). you’re right, quit chasing zero, wood moves. Here’s something about runners I’ve always wondered about: if you glued the one nearest the fence first, fix it with screws, and then glued the second one without the fence, but with slight pressure applied to the sled to the right until the glue cures, your runners would be exactly right and the correct tightness regardless of how narrow or wide the runners were ( if you cut your own) in the slots …right? You’ve inspired me to build a cute,little, mini sled for my gift boxes, thanks.
If the runners are a little loose, you can do that to make them fit a bit tighter.
For the miter bars, I got a cheap cutting board from Walmart that measured to be the correct thickness. Cut them at the table saw. Perfect. They won't expand or contract.
The plastic cutting boards, not the wooden ones, right?
Awesome video! I have to make one asap!!
Thanks! I use mine all the time!
Great video Sir. easy to follow and very straight forward, thanks a lot for sharing.
Thank you!
Great video Sir. I’m sure you will get good use for your new table saw sled. 🇨🇦💝👍
It's been great!
Perfect! Great video. Have the same saw. Love it. Thanks.
Thank you!
This was very useful, thank you.
Glad to hear it!
I'm impressed by the method and precision to make it square. Personally, and for probably a lot of us, that would have ended with a hammer tap 😅. I'll save that video for later. Maybe I really need to be more precise with the tools I use everyday to be precise...though.
Thanks!
Thank you.
👍
Good stuff!!!!
Thanks!
Thanks mate - excellent!
Thank you!
Good idea with the CA glue applied to the rails.
Thanks 👍
Love the simple design , execution, and explanation of this project.
Thank you very much!
Very impressive!
Thank you!
You measured the fence adjustment from one end to the other, 34” I think you said. However, it pivots on the right screw, so measure from the screw position. It’s picky, I know, but some folks might have placed the right screw further in. You got great results and like your video.
No, I measured from the screw. That's exactly what I said at 10:45, measure from the screw because it is the pivot point.
@@biscuittreewoodworks, I feel like such a dunce. This isn’t the first time I have needed to be set straight. Thanks for responding and keep up the great work.
Simple and effective... all that I need. The only change I *may* make/add... a couple Dovetail slots in the base to allow me to slide in some (MicroJig) MatchFit clamps if I need to secure/hold parts down as I cut. Possibly cut an an angle from the back fence area side towards the blade kerf on the front fence area, so it can easily handle large to small parts, yet the dovetail portion of the clamp can't run into the blade. Cut before assembling the front fence of course.
Thanks for watching! Let me know what yours ends up like!
Very nice thanks
👍
I found putting a few good coats of good paste wax on my table saw jigs helps keep them from being affected by humidity.
Great tip!
Just don't use anything that contains silicone oil if you are planning to add a finish to your cut pieces. It can really interfere with getting a uniform coat (found out the hard way).
Love it, simple and accurate what more do you need.
Thanks! Glad you like it!
I would love to have plans for this.
I hope to have plans for this and several other projects up on my website soon!
Clear concise instructions with excellent editing. I recently had to relocate and build a shop 1/4 the size of my last one. That meant making a new, smaller sled. I, too, bought T-track for runners. I planned to use them like you did but was going to flip them the other way to eliminate the need for chamfering the screw holes. Is there a reason not to do it this way?
Maybe you just used the wrong term, but the runners on the bottom are miter bars, not t-tracks! Don’t mix those up because t-track will not fit inside the miter slots!