Have a Table Saw? You NEED to do This!!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.พ. 2023
- A well made table saw cross cut sled is one of the most used jigs in my shop! The precision and repeatability make it an absolutely essential tool! But when it’s done wrong, they can be difficult to use or overly complicated for their purpose.
My old sled is one I picked up at a yard sale thinking it would solve all my table saw sled needs, but it just created more problems.
So I’m building a new sled to address all the issues I’ve had with cross cut sleds in the past! These upgrades include aluminum miter bars to prevent issues with wood movement, a T-track on the fence for accessories, and the @katzmosestools Katz-Moses Stop Block to upgrade from my previous stop block method!
👉Join my Patreon for more! / biscuittreewoodworks
✅ Products used in this build:
Katz-Moses Stop Block: kmtools.com/collections/katz-...
Rockler T-Track: amzn.to/3jkmQFl
Rockler Miter Bars: amzn.to/3WNLtYO
Minwax Paste Finishing Wax: amzn.to/3RxDWwh
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This costs you nothing extra, but helps me keep the lights on! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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I don't have any plans for this cross cut sled, but if there's enough interest I'll make some. Let me know!
Does this mean no maths then?
Bob
England
Seems to me you explained a lot about the details of assembling this sled, but a big question I have, and I have watched many "sled" videos, is what factors to take into consideration when determining the dimensions, the base thickness, the base material, the far fence function, the shapes and height (not heighth - a pet peeve of mine) of the far and near fences, etc. I think the parameters that need to be considered when building a sled for a particular saw are more useful than a set of plans for a specific saw. I know I struggled with these questions this week when I built my first sled for a cabinet door project I am currently working on. Also, there appears to be some magic in determining the offset from the blade cut line to the left and right sides of the sled, but I'll be damned if I can understand the magic - any enlightenment you could provide on this topic should appeal to your viewers.
Again, great work, keep it up.
@@psmola101 No magic needed!
For the base material you want it to be flat and stable so a sheet of plywood is perfect. I've tried 1/2" plywood and it has more tendency to warp, so I prefer 3/4" plywood.
The far fence is needed to hold the sled together. Without it that end of the sled would just flop around not only making the sled inaccurate but very dangerous to use.
The height of the fences needs to be higher than you will run the blade so that you don't ever cut all the way through them. 4" is a good number since table saws typically don't cut that high.
As for how far to the left and right of the blade the sled should go, it's really up to your preference. You can go as wide in either direction as you want to go, it's just going to make a much larger and heavier sled. Same for depth of the sled from front to back. Go as wide as you need without making the sled too massive to use.
Hope that helps!
@@psmola101 Heighth!! Crikey me too……how did it get started?
Bob
England
A Mier Guage can act as the base for a sled.
"Now I won't bore you with the details" (proceeds to give the most clearly understandable demonstration of the 5-cut method ever)
Me: "Oh, I get it now"
Great! I’m glad it was helpful!
Yeah - I've seen others get into the math so much that the method get lost in the message.
I only do math under protest.
😁
thanks for that,
that's the best description of the FIVE CUT METHOD as I've seen so far.
thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
very strange, a video that didn't waste an hour and a half or more with useless jibber=jabber.............to the point.......thanks.........a great example of the 5 cut method..
Thank you!
This video was very nice to watch. Thanks for sharing.
Great presentation of a fit-for-purpose, accurate crosscut sled with no "ultimate" hype. Your demonstration of the 5 cut method is very clear.
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Simple explanations. That’s the way everyone doing TH-cam videos should do. Some make it sound much more complicated than it has to be. I guess they are trying to make themselves look brilliant. Thanks for making user friendly videos.
Thank you! I agree, some people are making things way too complicated just for the sake of the video. I'm hoping to help people make better projects, not overly complex contraptions that don't serve much purpose.
I’ve been putting off building one of these because of the five cut method. I’m horrible with maths like that, but your explanation gave me that “ah ha” moment, and I finally understand it. Time to build a sled. Thank you sir!!!
Awesome! Glad I could help!
Great job of explaining the math for how to arrive at the amount you need to move the fence. I don't think I've seen other videos with the math broken down in detail like that!
Glad it was helpful!
Haha. Upon further review yes to the music but great choice of music. No distraction at all. Keep doing your thing. Thanks for your editing skills. You toned down the music perfectly at the right time. You obviously have multiple skills. 👍
I try my best, thanks!
Nice job explaining William Ng's method. I just yesterday came across his 11 year old video on this topic. I especially like the way you marked the A and B on the 5th cut, and explained by way of example and simple analysis which way to rotate the fence to bring it into alignment. You are a skilled teacher. My only suggestion to others building a sled would be to clamp the fence in position once you have inserted the feeler gages to make the 0.013" adjustment, and before you install the next screw.
Keep up the good work, you have a natural teaching talent.
Thank you!
I agree with your take on the video, and also with your suggestion to others.
Good work all around, imho.
This is the simplest and best explained 5 cut method for building a cross cut sled. I appreciate the teaching without the self deprecating humor and silly garbage to many "experts" use to entertain. This is why the comedy channel exists ! Well done.!!!
Thanks! I drop some humor from time to time but try to focus on delivering the best woodworking information I can!
Great Video. The absolute best/simplest description of the 5 cut method I've heard yet. Thank you.
Thanks!
What happens if “a” needs to be bigger than “b”, do you just remove the other screw instead?
@@anphan3208 Start with the corner block and feeler gauges against the fence and clamp the block in place. Remove the feeler gauges and the screw and push the fence against the corner block. Insert new screw.
So, instead of adding the feeler gauges as in the video, you're subtracting the feeler gauges.
So many Table Saw Sled videos lose me at the complexity they add to them. This one Simple and exactly what you need. And you got the comment and thumbs up because of the stop block bit! Great job.
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
Great video! Probably the best demo/explanation of the 5-cut method I’ve seen.
Wow, thanks!
This is easily the best representation of the 5-cut method for squaring your crosscut front fence. I've seen a LOT of crosscut sled videos and your explanation was the best I've seen. Most other TH-camrs just gloss over the math, and some even skip the step of multiplying by the length between screws. And I agree about avoiding hardwoods for your miter slots, as I live in a high-humidity area....I use aluminum miter bars or HDPE miter bars (which is sometimes cheaper than aluminum, esp. on Amazon). However, due to high humidity after a few years, my double-thick front fence began to bow inward (concave looking down). So I upgraded and added one of those aluminum "super" tracks from Woodpeckers, which has made a world of difference. Not only perfectly straight, but the additional track grooves allow multiple options for adding stops or additional accessories.
Thanks! An aluminum fence is a good idea unless you have a SawStop. My monster sled had an aluminum fence and I was always worried about tripping the blade break if it was too close to the.
@@biscuittreewoodworks You're right, I never thought about a SawStop. I've never had the "spondulix" to afford one of those, lol.
@babounous No - it's not - William Ng is
th-cam.com/video/UbG-n--LFgQ/w-d-xo.html
At 13.00 you could see the pilot hole drill move the fence. Oops!
I cut dovetails slots into my crosscut sled to add MicroJig clamps so I can clamp down smaller pieces that need cutting.
I thought about adding t-track for clamps but I’ve never needed to clamp anything down to the sled.
Thanks again. I will make one like this.
Awesome!
Excellent video and demonstration! Clear, concise, to the point, but well explained! - Just subscribed.
Cheers from London 👍🏻🏴🇬🇧
Awesome! Thank you!
@@biscuittreewoodworks welcome!
LOL, loved the stop-block bit. That was funny.
I also think the sled is nice, simple, and functional. Great job🤓
Thank you! I had a lot of fun with that part!
Excellent video
Thanks!
For safety, it's very important to add some type of positive stop to the forward movement of the sled, so that the saw-blade will NEVER fully cut through the glued on "safety housing" shown in this video. This is particularly important when trimming thick parts, such as table legs, when the saw-blade is near full height extension.
To achieve that, I have slots cut into the outfeed table that can prevent the miter bars from going too far.
LOL'ed at the very end when you were talking about stop block being beautiful and red. 😂 Just for that it was worth watching the whole video
Awesome! Glad you liked it!
Awesome video! I have to make one asap!!
Thanks! I use mine all the time!
👍 some good advice right there kids
Thanks!
Tip: Save your hacksaw arm, and use your miter saw (with carbide teeth) to cut the aluminum track.
Yes, I could have easily cut aluminum on the miter saw!
A friend of mine is a retired structural engineer. He made me one very similiter, but he used thick aluminum plate and extruded aluminum bar that was fiberglass coated used several "T" tracks, I have had it for almost 9 years, it is .00001 out of perfect square, I can also adjust if it ever were to get out of square, surprisingly it is quite lite. It also has several gigs I can use with to to make box joints, miter cuts & so much more.. I myself am a retired Master Carpenter.. I only use my shop, now to teach my grandchildren carpentry.. And I do occasional projects.. My children & grandchildren use the shop 90% of the time..
Thank you for sharing.. I wish we had the internet and TH-cam back when I was active working the trade...
That would be fine on most saws, but pretty sure you couldn't use that on a Sawstop.
You can turn the stop feature off. There is an inherent increase in safety when using a crosscut sled (no cut on a saw is completely safe!), so a metal sled should be no problem. Having said that, my sleds will always be wood, not metal or melamine.
@@harveyalan788 It's a bit of a hassle to go into bypass mode on the Sawstop and you have to go through that procedure every time the saw is stopped and restarted. Possible, sure. But I bet someone would go through a lot of blades and brakes trying to use a metal sled.
You can’t even measure .00001 out of square. Good grief.
When in woodworking would you need to be that accurate? I was a machinist for 38 years. I did first articles for the Government. Never have heard of having to measure that tight. Helicopter rotors are allowed.005 runout. As in the other comment “ good grief “!
Lol I loved the stop block humor at the end
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Very cool. I always heard about the 5-cut method but this is the first time I actually understood, great explanation!
Great to hear!
Great videos! Keep up the good work, Devil Dog
Thanks, Semper Fi!
@@biscuittreewoodworks I wasn't a Marine, but served with them as a Corpsman in the Air wing.
Good stuff!!!!
Thanks!
I like your attention to safety and accuracy. Great video, thanks.
Great! Thanks for watching!
Wow! You explained all of that so well! Thank you!!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
You got me there with the stop block. 😂
🤣
Tip: spray some accelerator on the bottom of the plywood before dropping it onto the track with CyA glue.
You can use accelerator spray to speed up the set time of CA glue, I was worried it might react with the cast iron top.
That’s precision. Love it.
Thanks!
Thanks. A lot of really good tips for me to digest and use for my new sled
Glad it’s helpful!
Great video. Very well explained, to the point, and more importantly, not a second wasted on jibber jabber. I love the clear & simple 5-cut method explanation and how you made fun of yourself with the cut-block. Well done buddy.
Glad it was helpful!
Very well presented. Kept it simple. Thank you. I will be using your method to create my sled
A lot of TH-cam woodworking channels over complicate the design trying to grab attention and views. I really think a simple, accurate sled is one of the best tools you can have in your shop.
Great representation! Thank you from Russia.
Thank you very much!
Well done, good and educational video. Thank you Will have to return to see your other videos. Thanks
Awesome, thank you!
Best video to explain how to adjust the fence!
Thanks! 👍
Excellent video. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
🤣🤣🤣Thanks for that last bit! Excellent explanation and I learned it better with you (5 cut method). Love your no frills, straight shootin vids. Subscribed!
Thank you! Glad you're enjoying the videos!
Great video Sir. easy to follow and very straight forward, thanks a lot for sharing.
Thank you!
I appreciate this video as much as I was entertained by it. Keep doing what you’re doing. This is great!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome video man. Such a smile breakdown of a well made sled and the 5 cut method. Thank you! 🇺🇸
Thank you!
I just ran across your channel and was impressed by the way you presented the video. Very informative. Great miter sled. I am looking forward to looking at your other videos.
Great Job!
Awesome, thank you!
I have watched many videos on this subject, this was the best by far. Very good instruction!
Thank you!
great demonstration of the 5 cut method.
Thanks!
Great work my friend!
Thanks for stopping by! Loving the stop block so far!
Great video and explanation of the five cut method.
Thank you!
Agreed! Your explanation of the 5 cut method is excellent. A very nice and clear video. Your editing skills are superb. I need to make mine soon. Shop reorganization in progress.
Thank you!
Great demonstration of the five cut method. First time that I truly understand it 🧐💡and can apply to my crosscut sled build.
Awesome! Glad to hear it!
I will be building a sled soon, will use this tutorial to do so. 👍
Awesome! Enjoy!
Love it, simple and accurate what more do you need.
Thanks! Glad you like it!
Excellent presentation and explanation of the 5-cut method!
Glad you liked it!!
Perfect! Great video. Have the same saw. Love it. Thanks.
Thank you!
Thank you.
👍
Really great video. It was clear and concise. I’ve never seen that 5 cut method for squareness, I really love it. I’ve wanted to build a cross cut sled for some time. I think I’m ready.
Glad it was helpful!
Very good presentation young man
Thanks!
Very nice thanks
👍
Just came across your TH-cam video. Awesome stuff. A word of advise if I may from an old fart. For your own safety. Pound a 3" finishing nail in the wall and hang your watch and wedding ring on that nail. I've seen a live shop accident of what happens when a ring gets caught in the wrong piece of equipment. It happened to an expert carpenter with 35 years of experience. Let me tell you we both learned a valuable lesson. Love your video.
You’re right, and having spent many years in machine shops I should take more precautions. I take them off for certain operations but not everything.
If a ring gets caught you were too close anyways. 35 years experience just means they've increased the odds of an accident occurring. In a long enough timeline anything that can happen will. When you do something a million times you can't be surprised when that one in a million thing happens.
I really like the simplicity of design and function balanced with cost effectiveness!
Awesome video!
Well done, Sir!
Thank you very much!
Very well explained, especially the 5 cut method of truing the cut. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I really appreciate the clear, concise lesson here. Thank you, Sir!
You're very welcome!
Great video. Thank you!
👍😁
Sweet. Thanks for sharing, and blessings, from this old man in Tennessee.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video, very well explained with some great engineering practices. I have never thought about making a sled, but may now. Good work............
Thanks! I use my sled all the time!
I have a sawstop slider. I used 3m spray adhesive to put a strip of 150 grit sand paper on the fence. Nothing has ever slipped again while cross cutting. Should work perfectly on this one too.
👍
Wow, an excellent presentation and explanation. I am a teacher and you have a knack for explaining this complex task.🙂
Thank you! 😃
That was a great video and I love watching u!!
Thank you!
Of course
This was very useful, thank you.
Glad to hear it!
What a great vid, he make it so simple.
Thanks!
best sled video i ever sawed
Thanks!
😂 this was/is the best video I have seen so far for the 5 cut. Explanation was fantastic, now I can go and adjust mine with out using Sheldon math! Brilliant, thank you. 🤙
Glad it helped!
I've used a crosscut sled of this basic design for many years and I'll testify it is really good. A real plus in your method is to apply a chamfer on to the back fence. Good idea. Excellent video and well presented!
Thank you!
Thanks mate - excellent!
Thank you!
Very impressive!
Thank you!
Excellent video, thanks. Straight forward and well presented. I subscribed.
Thank you!
Great video Sir. I’m sure you will get good use for your new table saw sled. 🇨🇦💝👍
It's been great!
I'm impressed by the method and precision to make it square. Personally, and for probably a lot of us, that would have ended with a hammer tap 😅. I'll save that video for later. Maybe I really need to be more precise with the tools I use everyday to be precise...though.
Thanks!
I can't tell you how many cross cut sled videos I've watched over the years, and I've build quite a few as well. This is probably the most straight forward, concise video I've seen. You explanations are clear and detailed, yet straight to the point. As others have mentioned, this is especially true in your explanation of the five cut method. I've seen many botched explanations of that process. Great job! I'm now a subscriber.
Thank you!
Very clear, concise and meaningful explanation of your process. Thank you for making everything so understandable.
Best explanation scene to date!
Thanks!
That commercial! “Wooderkers” Guild of America..😅
I have no control over what ads play, but apparently TH-cam thinks you might like woodworking. 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks for the video. I too prefer a simple crosscut sled.
Nice demonstration of explaining how to determine which direction to move the fence to achieve square.
I like my big sled to overhang the edge of the saw a couple of inches on the left. This allows using a clamp to hold the fence during the initial build vs using the screw. I also find it handy to be able to clamp on this edge without interfering with the sled movement from time to time too.
Glad you enjoyed the video!
My sled is similar in size and construction and includes the Katz-Moses stop block. I did add T-track parallel to the blade on both sides of the blade. The t-track is about 14" long and 6" from the blade. This allows me to have an adjustable clamp to hold down wood when necessary and I also often clamp my shop vac hose with the floor attachment attached to suck up sawdust as I cut. I did learn a few things from your video for my next build. Well done!
Awesome! Sounds like a good sled!
When I grow up I'm going to get a table saw like yours. Aside: 4:50 I bought the Harbor Freight oscillating sander. It's exactly the same thing as the Ridgid, but 1/2 the price. I use it frequently and have no issues with it.
I had heard a lot of good things about the Ridgid oscillating sander. It’s ok for rough work but not very accurate. I may upgrade to a floor standing model at some point. I’ve been doing this for a long time now so I’m getting away from cheap tools and investing in higher quality tools that do a better job.
Excellent
Thanks!😊
_God damn it! Bill would approve_
Can't say I know who Bill is but glad to have his approval.
@@biscuittreewoodworksWilliam Ng - the five cut method guy
@@GNU_Linux_for_good 👍
Good content, thanks.
I have a narrower (front to back) sled used for cutting structural pieces rather than panels. The narrower size means that I could put a perspex cover above the line of the blade, wide enough to reduce the likelihood of touching the blade but without impeding the ability to hold pieces against the fence.
Sounds great!
Simple and effective... all that I need. The only change I *may* make/add... a couple Dovetail slots in the base to allow me to slide in some (MicroJig) MatchFit clamps if I need to secure/hold parts down as I cut. Possibly cut an an angle from the back fence area side towards the blade kerf on the front fence area, so it can easily handle large to small parts, yet the dovetail portion of the clamp can't run into the blade. Cut before assembling the front fence of course.
Thanks for watching! Let me know what yours ends up like!
Amazing what ya can do when ya got a shop FULL of high END tools,lol
LOL, I wouldn't know! I certainly don't consider anything in my shop "high end"! All my tools are in the beginner/intermediate hobbyist level.
Nice job and better explanation. Between 10:10 and 10:17 I did the math mentally and my answer was 0.016 but I saw yours and went running for the mobile to check mine. I believe that your first trial was correct enough.
Yes, the first attempt was probably good enough, but then I couldn't show you how to make the adjustments for better accuracy if you needed to.
Well done! Personally, I would try for 1/2 to 1/3 of the error you achieved but that's probably because I do a lot more metal machining than woodworking and the mentality drifts across disciplines. One addition I would want for myself is something that I actually did incorporate into my last sled. I have a raised area on the back fence about 1-1/2" high centered on the blade. The width is sufficient to my hands are kept away from the blade. It can be relatively thin, behind the T-track and leaving enough room for the stop to pivot up. It's just a reminder in case I get too focused on the workpiece to not reach in any farther.
Something else that I did was to put a T-track in the face of the fence. It allows the positive positioning of a clamping device that I made to hold pieces too small to be held by fingers. It's just some Baltic birch ply and a screw with a pad that applies vertical pressure on the small piece. Much of my woodworking is in building large RC airplanes that still need small pieces of wood that have to be cut accurately.
Good tips, thanks for watching!
Nice presentation. I want to make a cross cut sled with the ability to use dado stack
I have another sled just for dados. Same construction methods apply!
I would love to have plans for this.
I hope to have plans for this and several other projects up on my website soon!
Good video. After watching some other vids, I noticed that some guys incorporated some washers and bolts to attach the back fence in order to catch sawdust or you could cut a notch with your router to allow for some sawdust to collect without having to blow off each time.
Great tip!
Great, nice, simple video! I’ve made two sleds so far and used them both for 10 years but watched anyway because you always get something from a how-to video. What I got from yours was that the fence measurement should be from the pivot screw to the other END of the fence (not to the other end screw) I’ve never seen that clarified in other videos, also, anything under 0.00 is good enough (I’ve always shot for under .004). you’re right, quit chasing zero, wood moves. Here’s something about runners I’ve always wondered about: if you glued the one nearest the fence first, fix it with screws, and then glued the second one without the fence, but with slight pressure applied to the sled to the right until the glue cures, your runners would be exactly right and the correct tightness regardless of how narrow or wide the runners were ( if you cut your own) in the slots …right? You’ve inspired me to build a cute,little, mini sled for my gift boxes, thanks.
If the runners are a little loose, you can do that to make them fit a bit tighter.
great job with simple explanations, I will however be going with a "RED" clamp on block and save 37 bucks lol
Can't go wrong with either "red" stop block! I can confirm both work great!
Another channel worth subbing too. Awesome. I’m trying to remember if you played music through the video, I have a feeling you did. That would be my only critique but I don’t think it was during your talking. Anyways at least it wasn’t distracting. I’m gonna build that exact sled. Was thinking I’d just use a framing square for the back fence but I like your precision 5 step method. I love a challenge and I love to be a sponge Bob absolutely square head !!!! Thanks
Thanks! Music is always a difficult thing to get right. Some will love it, some will hate it. It's often necessary to include because dead air on video is terrible, so I try to fill the dead air with very light music almost to the point you don't even notice unless you are listening for it.