Wish I could take this video back in time. Went thru hell 8 yrs ago on this job. But all's good, time for another pump, thanks for your efforts Brian. Clear & concise info is always welcome. 👍
Great video Brian. Just finished changing the one on my 94 F-250 and followed your steps to a “T” except for the ice cream bucket. I didn’t have one so I installed the pulley backwards to make a pedestal while I put on the gaskets and backing plate. Thank you for sharing!!
Nice video. I just changed a motor and it came with a new harmonic balancer and different tuning wheel. Now the crank sensor doesn't read it correctly. It is sitting on only 3/4 of the tuning wheel. If I hold it with my hand the engine runs properly. Is there a different crank sensor for the new type tuning wheel
I'm just going to come out and say what I'm thinking on that one. Ford is LAZY AF when it comes to manufacturing and crank signal. They're machining, and their parts supply are fickle and it sucks working on them for that reason. They'll change parts design and planning 2 or three times a year during this era. Always use your VIN or month of manufacture from the door jamb sticker when sourcing parts and EXPECT parts to still be wrong. And they'll have sloppy manufacturing on the tone device (castleations) and then have the PCM "learn" to read it with the IDS (Ford's computer) or some other high-end bi-directional scan tool. They rush sloppy designs to market and let others sort it out later. This is why I'm so loyal to the Ford Dealership for parts. WHAT??? I know, right? They're constantly updated to fix what was sloppy during production. In your case, You need a tone ring/wheel/device that matches the difference in design/campaign for the sensor or visa versa. OR build a good/strong designed device to hold your sensor in place so it works. Likely the easiest fix is to shop the years before and after yours to find a new sensor designed to fit your harmonic balancer that came with the engine or switch it from your old one if it's still around.
Permatex “Right Stuff” thinly spread across all mating surfaces. Use your gloved finger to spread a nice even thin layer. There’s your water pump, then a gasket, then the backing plate, then ANOTHER gasket, which attaches to the timing cover. I’m planning on using the permatex between each layer.
Early 90's Isuzu and Ford were in the Play-doh phase of engine design. Keeping it flexible and just adding things to the motor in layers like clumps of colored clay overlapping as they went.
Wish I could take this video back in time. Went thru hell 8 yrs ago on this job. But all's good, time for another pump, thanks for your efforts Brian. Clear & concise info is always welcome. 👍
Thanks Brian, I've never seen a water pump quite like this one. Diy'ing for five years now and learning and enjoying.
Great video Brian. Just finished changing the one on my 94 F-250 and followed your steps to a “T” except for the ice cream bucket. I didn’t have one so I installed the pulley backwards to make a pedestal while I put on the gaskets and backing plate. Thank you for sharing!!
Sweet rig
Great tips, I drive a Toyota. Thanks for the 2.7 tacoma videos!
Welcome- glad you liked 'em. I have SO MUCH more content to edit on that 4Runner. It's back on my radar now.
Great video, thanks. I got my truck creep from Jeg s it save your back ! Supper job thanks 🇺🇸💪
Well done. Thank you very much. Plain English very understandable outstanding
Great vid Brian always love your insights on repairs
Awesome video as usual!! Another way to keep gaskets in place is to tie with sewing thread then remove as you insert the bolts.
Thanks! Good idea for a clean install.
Can you actually say the measurements of the lengths of the bolts? Im having trouble finding the right ones for mine.
Why cant all mechanics (automotive diagnostic and corrective engineers) be as good as you . Thanks for sharing.
Wow! Thanks for that!
Thanks brian. Youre an asset to youtube. Keep Hammering❤⚔🛡🎩🇺🇸..🐈🐈🐈🍭🍭🍭
Over 50 years ago, I had SO much trouble with short hose coming out the back of the pump on a '57 FORD.
Can you post a belt rotation video
Great video
Thanks!
Nice video. I just changed a motor and it came with a new harmonic balancer and different tuning wheel. Now the crank sensor doesn't read it correctly. It is sitting on only 3/4 of the tuning wheel. If I hold it with my hand the engine runs properly. Is there a different crank sensor for the new type tuning wheel
I'm just going to come out and say what I'm thinking on that one. Ford is LAZY AF when it comes to manufacturing and crank signal. They're machining, and their parts supply are fickle and it sucks working on them for that reason. They'll change parts design and planning 2 or three times a year during this era. Always use your VIN or month of manufacture from the door jamb sticker when sourcing parts and EXPECT parts to still be wrong. And they'll have sloppy manufacturing on the tone device (castleations) and then have the PCM "learn" to read it with the IDS (Ford's computer) or some other high-end bi-directional scan tool. They rush sloppy designs to market and let others sort it out later. This is why I'm so loyal to the Ford Dealership for parts. WHAT??? I know, right? They're constantly updated to fix what was sloppy during production. In your case, You need a tone ring/wheel/device that matches the difference in design/campaign for the sensor or visa versa. OR build a good/strong designed device to hold your sensor in place so it works. Likely the easiest fix is to shop the years before and after yours to find a new sensor designed to fit your harmonic balancer that came with the engine or switch it from your old one if it's still around.
Hmmm,I wonder what became of that skyviking dude... 😅
Hi, I have the same water pump on my 1990 F 350. What do you mean when you say glue the back plate? What type of glue ? Thanks
Permatex “Right Stuff” thinly spread across all mating surfaces. Use your gloved finger to spread a nice even thin layer. There’s your water pump, then a gasket, then the backing plate, then ANOTHER gasket, which attaches to the timing cover. I’m planning on using the permatex between each layer.
I don't think Ford had a better idea with this one.
Early 90's Isuzu and Ford were in the Play-doh phase of engine design. Keeping it flexible and just adding things to the motor in layers like clumps of colored clay overlapping as they went.
@@briansmobile1 Pretty much. OBD2 introduction brought everything together and made stuff MUCH easier to work on. Now its getting stupid again.
Isuzu? Or mazda? @@briansmobile1
if Tricky on the truck, then it must be hell on an econoline
What I learned is I don't want to do this job.
That's an easy one. The worst are the screw on fan clutch jobs in which the fan clutch is stuck.
Almost like the engineers are trying to force you to buy new parts.
The White Truck Company didn't, and they went under.