Dont forget to replace your clutch actuator arm bearings in the left side crankcase. I dont think the wrench rabbit kit includes them. At least they didnt when i bought mine for my 98 250. Cant wait to see the build complete.
I ordered my first polishing wheel and let me say this is the BEST thing I have ever used to polish my aluminum parts . It takes years of tarnish and corrosion off in seconds leaving a like new luster . I also purchased the buffing wheel for a drill to reach hard parts and it works fantastic ! I highly recommend the products and very quick order processing I received on my purchase .
This is such a great video, so helpful in so many ways, thank you Cameron! Safety tip - those cases have razor sharp edges. I clipped an artery on my finger once while cleaning one, and now use mechanics gloves whenever working around them, especially with a high speed machine.
Great video, Thanks! Not sure if this has been mentioned already but when you run into what appears to be Phillips screws on a Japanese product don't use a Phillips screwdriver because they are not Phillips. They are in fact JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard) They have a different form to them than Phillips. While Phillips are designed to cam out JIS is not, but use a Phillips driver on a JIS screw and they they will bugger up the screw. Best way to ID a JIS screw is to look for a dot on the screw head. Although JIS screwdrivers are hard to find the impact drivers usually save the day. Hope this helps those who wonder why Japanese screws always get trashed when removing them with a known good Phillips driver.
A cheapo trick to get by is to buy a harbor freight #2 phillips and grind the tip back a bit. It allows for more contact on the screw. Then buy some JIS drivers.
I'm completely restoring my '03 KTM450EXC soon, and will be using your engine cleaning techniques, but I'll be going one step further. So that I don't have to do all that polishing a 2nd, or even 3rd time, I'll be cleaning all my polished areas with acetone, then coating it all with a High Temp "Clear" ceramic coat, baked twice to cure, so my bike comes back to looking brand new after every wash!
cameron never stop doing what you are doing, youre a huge inspiration to me and your vids are both entertaining and extremely teaching. wish i had such a good garage as you.
Neat trick for those blind hole bearings. Put heavy grease inside them, stuff paper in axle hole and hammer that paper, remove it, put more grease and repeat . You will create quite surprising amount of hydraulic pressure and you can remove bearing without blind hole puller tool. I've used this multiple times and I know it sounds incredible to many, but this really works when done properly.
It was the way (don't know if they still do) mechanics used to remove pilot bearings from flywheels/cranks. Get a solid bar that fits snugly in the hole, fill the hole with grease and tap the shaft in. Bearing is forced out.
For difficult to reach areas buy a length of bowden cable, cut into 3 inch pieces and tape together. 7 is a good number to retain flexibility while allowing pressure to be applied. I also always finish off with 400 grit wet and dry whenever using steel wire on ali otherwise the finish is just a series of scratches.
Such high quality and educational stuff here! I figured I needed special tools that were unobtainable. But I have most of these tools and am confident I could rebuild my 2 stroke if I needed to.
For all those who don’t have a blind bearing puller, find a flat end punch close to the inner diameter of the bearing. Take single ply toilet paper and wet it keep packing and hammering in. Bearing pops right out
Great attention to detail Cameron, I have seen similar results just with vapour blasting with wet soda in a cleaning cabinet like you already have. Maybe worth investing in this kit???? A bearing press is useful too. 👍🏻
Nice job cam, love the patience and detail. I love doing all this myself and your vids help me skip the trial and error drama. I'll be picking some stuff up at your store.
Even though I work on smaller engines, such as Zenoah's I've got a spare toaster oven that I can heat aluminum parts up in evenly to about 130-150F and then just freeze the bearing and the leiden frost effect will let them drop right in and will burn off quickly.
Great video. A trick I have always used for blind bearings is put the entire case in the oven. Let it get nice and heated then take it out and slam it down on a piece of plywood. They will fall right out.
One thing you should mention is that the screws retaining the bearings are JIS head screws and are super easily rounded out if not using the appropriate bit. Otherwise, keep up the good work, like your videos!
When I did the case on my YZ 250 I popped the cases in the oven at 200 for about 2 hours and everything fell right out . I did the same thing when I installed the new bearing , but I put all the bearings in the freezer the day before and they dropped right in with no issues
One thing for anyone trying to tear an engine, heat up every bolt/nut to be safe, especially if you’re a rookie! Best tip out there. And drivers.. lots of drivers… I remember my first clutch nut, I had to grind it off.. and my second one I just gave up it on and left it. Nowadays first heat, and an impact driver.. works like a charm. PS I pre-heat EVERY bolt and nut even case bolts before. Only stuff like plastics I just wd40, those can be dremelled
Your work is awesome. This cr250 will shit all over hondas factory build haha I'm keen to see what you do with the topend, Oversizing? Porting? Port matching? Reed valves an cage? Carb? Endless possibilities mate keep it up love your vids, take care Mark.
Yo Cameron, I love your videos. Watched a bunch of them, all are nicely put together and informative. Right now I'm fully rebuilding a CR250 '00 engine, which I also going to be using your tips to get the crankcase halves looking this good. Thnx for sharing.
I really like the scotch brite wheel is awesome. Not overly aggressive. Wrap it up with some Aurosol on either regular bench buffer or dremel buffer pad and it will end up amazing.
Popping the bearings out would've been easier with a hydraulic press but you gotta work with what you got... great vids I enjoy watching them... I learn a lot despite being a mechanic by trade
Im going to be cleaning an engine soon here. I was messing around with some steel wire cups and they cleaned it up very well, but left a darker finish. You think if i get a bunch of scotch brite wheels for a dremel that will get rid of that finish?
What i usually do is use a steel wire wheel on an angle grinder to remove all paint or rust, and then i spray the insides of the exhaust with oven cleaner a couple of times and then preassure wash it, then repaint it.
Also for that extra nice finish use some metal polish and some cotton buffing pads on the outside of the case but tape off the inside you don't want that stuff on the inside. Can also clear it for longer lasting and protection and easier cleaning.
Dude, stunning work.. labor intensive to say the least, kinda puts new meaning to perseverance. I was just the luckiest S.O.B lately, i found a 1981 Honda XL 500 S that had been ridden 1 month and was dumped. Only damage was a split front plastic fender ,which has been replaced already. after the mishap the bike was stored for 37+ years . It was tarped and stayed in a heated garage for this near 40 yr. nap. Story is the owner fogged the cylinder, filled the fuel tank with a very rich oil gas mix . and filled the crankcase to the brim with Honda oil ,and isolated and drained the carb and fogged it to with marvel mystery oil. I drained every once of fuel gas ,drained and flushed the crankcase along with the fork oil. new battery, fresh fuel,new NGK spark plug. shot electronic spray cleaner and electronic lube in every electrical connection. Kicked it 3 times and it fired right up and idled like a swiss watch. drove a few miles with no incidence. only issue is that after 37 years the aluminum just on the cylinder head and a few other components (Wheel spokes) have been corroded with surface corrosion, very ugly on a brand new bike. I tried using the mag cleaner you showed but made the aluminum turn a darkish gray. so with a rag and some "BRASSO" seems to help but not getting the results i want. i want this bike "Museum Quality" cuz me will never sell it. The bike doesn't leak a drop of oil even after 500+ miles now, so i do not want to crack any covers on it. Also placed the entire carburetor in a Ultrsonic cleaning machine and it looks pristine now, but the engine wont fit . any suggestions? cuz I'm thinking of painting the cylinder portion black and leaving the outside edge of the fins high polished aluminum with all the other parts hand polished to like a chrome like finish. .
Those cases came out great didn't they. The brass wire while softer to use on aluminum, it does however transfer in to the pours of the aluminum leaving a goldish color. The goldish color is fine if that is the look you're after. I had the same thing happen before. Next use some Blue magic to further polish and help seal the cases.
Have you thought about filling the largest holes by alloy brazing? A Henrob torch is great for those tasks, using just 4 psi you don’t get any blowback and brazing isn’t hot enough to deform the cases. It’s very gentle. You would then just grind back the cases, and by this method you haven’t sacrificed any case thickness. It’s also used to restore irreplaceable vintage wire rims (like off classic Mercedes & Jaguar), and exhausts too. Better method IMO.
Never use a gas Torch in aluminium cases, the better way to pull out screw with loctite or ball bearing is to heat the parts in a hoven, 150° Celsius are quite enough and the thermal stress is very Little.
for doing the mating faces on your engine covers, gasket surfaces etc. to get a flat surface and perfect gasket surface , try a sheet of glass and some lapping paste, if you cant find lapping paste, brasso works ok, even toothpaste will work with a bit of light oil, move your covers over the glass in a figure 8 motion with the lapping paste taking care of the surface flatness.
Looks killer. Whats the best way to keep it looking shiney. Have you tried any long lasting wax based product that lasts? Polished over painted any day for me. Nice work man.
I like the polished look, but serious question, does doing this remove the protective coat/paint that comes from the factory? Will this polished look rust faster if not kept clean?
Hi in no mechanic…. I’ve just split the case on my 01 cr250 … my cases are at the stage you are now … why ares yours so clean ? … I’m putting in a vertex rebuild kit …. Can I now jet wash the cases with water to get the grease and oil off them … as I’m sending them away for aqua cleaning … ? I don’t have a parts washer 😢 … what do you suggest ?
Good video, but do you think that polished aluminium won't corrode in a short time? IMHO Honda bikes comes with some coating from factory to prevent it. Stock Honda engines that I've seen are not shining, they are just grey.
If your trying to resurface gasket surfaces to have a perfect flat sealing surface wrap or even lightly glue sheets of sandpaper to a piece of plate glass and move the part over the surface rather than moving the sanding surface over the part plate glass is a true flat surface you can actually even resurface car engine heads this way but dirt bike engine surfaces work very well using this method many sanding blocks are not very flat and you can't sand the whole surface at the same time which in some cases lead to an uneven surface.
Love your videos been following you for a long time, you should build yourself a vaporblaster, once you have one you can't live without it ! Saves so much time
Hey dude!!! I dont comment very often but I had to let you know how much i love your videos and your work!!! I really cant wait to see what your plans are for this bike! Those cases are getting me jealous 😂 I wish i could do what you do 😊 Youre my model when it comes time to work on my bike. Thanks alot for the vids you are my favourite youtuber hands down 😉 Wish i had the money to get some Pryme products and help you out with the build ! PS Love the more often vid release but dont forget to take your time 😊 Peace ! ✌
When cleaning the cases how long will it take to oxidize again or look ugly ? How do you protect it after taking off the coating ? Please would like to know
I thought that brass might transfer to the aluminum, I was like damn I hope he knows that! Metal smiths add brass coatings and finishes using brass brushes a lot. Pretty cool way to easily coat another metal.
Another idea for ends and edges and places where gaskets will go, tape down some large pieces of sandpaper on a flat surface and then slide the case over them to keep everything flat and smooth as you sand those edges. It near about eliminates any low or high areas on those surfaces. JMHO
While you had it all apart,how did each half of the cases and cylinder match at the transfer ports,seeing as you have a dremel at hand.I know modern engines are a lot cleaner and closer to spec.Not as bad as attaching the pipe to cylinder and checking for any mismatch.
Your awesome,so many people don't share this kind of stuff because they feel you should have to pay $1000 plus for something like this.when you can do it yourself and do better job then they would do 🤘😜awesome video bud looks brand new
Cameron can I ask why you never polished the intake and around the crank ? surely that would make for better power and delivery? i only ask as I was toying with idea and wouldn't mind some tips. or if there are any pro's or cons in doing this?
Use a bbq grill to drop the bearings. Place tin-foil down then place the case on the tin. Have the grill on low for a few minutes and you'll see your bearings have fallen out
bro, after assemblying the engine parts again will it effect the engine performance ? Will it have the power and torque that was there when it was manufactured first at the company factory ? And what is name of the brush u used ?
Bout time to put this engine together?
Can't wait!
Cameron Niemela you are awesome
Cameron Niemela The 250 will be better then it left the factory.
Dont forget to replace your clutch actuator arm bearings in the left side crankcase. I dont think the wrench rabbit kit includes them. At least they didnt when i bought mine for my 98 250. Cant wait to see the build complete.
Yeah it’s time to get my head re built on my 02 crf 450.
Cameron is probably the tidiest , cleanest , most professional mechanic I know of. We could all learn from Cameron and raise our standards !.
I ordered my first polishing wheel and let me say this is the BEST thing I have ever used to polish my aluminum parts . It takes years of tarnish and corrosion off in seconds leaving a like new luster . I also purchased the buffing wheel for a drill to reach hard parts and it works fantastic ! I highly recommend the products and very quick order processing I received on my purchase .
Thanks Marc! Happy to hear they're working well for you. Happy polishing!
This is such a great video, so helpful in so many ways, thank you Cameron!
Safety tip - those cases have razor sharp edges. I clipped an artery on my finger once while cleaning one, and now use mechanics gloves whenever working around them, especially with a high speed machine.
The dirt bike chrisfix!
Oke when i saw this reaction i knew it was the best vid😂
Exactly!
Great video, Thanks! Not sure if this has been mentioned already but when you run into what appears to be Phillips screws on a Japanese product don't use a Phillips screwdriver because they are not Phillips. They are in fact JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard) They have a different form to them than Phillips. While Phillips are designed to cam out JIS is not, but use a Phillips driver on a JIS screw and they they will bugger up the screw. Best way to ID a JIS screw is to look for a dot on the screw head. Although JIS screwdrivers are hard to find the impact drivers usually save the day. Hope this helps those who wonder why Japanese screws always get trashed when removing them with a known good Phillips driver.
A cheapo trick to get by is to buy a harbor freight #2 phillips and grind the tip back a bit. It allows for more contact on the screw. Then buy some JIS drivers.
shut up stupid.
Thanks for sharing. I did not know this
freddie cancel dude, chill out
Aren’t JIS more square instead of a diamond in the middle of a plus? That is the best way I could think to describe it without a picture
I'm completely restoring my '03 KTM450EXC soon, and will be using your engine cleaning techniques, but I'll be going one step further. So that I don't have to do all that polishing a 2nd, or even 3rd time, I'll be cleaning all my polished areas with acetone, then coating it all with a High Temp "Clear" ceramic coat, baked twice to cure, so my bike comes back to looking brand new after every wash!
simply amazing. takes a lot of patience and dedication for making those parts that clean
cameron never stop doing what you are doing, youre a huge inspiration to me and your vids are both entertaining and extremely teaching. wish i had such a good garage as you.
soderholm hi
Dude... U really had the patience to polish all that... Oh my god!
I thought u were simply Going to clean and sandblast.
Amazing
Neat trick for those blind hole bearings. Put heavy grease inside them, stuff paper in axle hole and hammer that paper, remove it, put more grease and repeat . You will create quite surprising amount of hydraulic pressure and you can remove bearing without blind hole puller tool. I've used this multiple times and I know it sounds incredible to many, but this really works when done properly.
It was the way (don't know if they still do) mechanics used to remove pilot bearings from flywheels/cranks.
Get a solid bar that fits snugly in the hole, fill the hole with grease and tap the shaft in. Bearing is forced out.
I've seen people use bread to do the same haha
For difficult to reach areas buy a length of bowden cable, cut into 3 inch pieces and tape together. 7 is a good number to retain flexibility while allowing pressure to be applied. I also always finish off with 400 grit wet and dry whenever using steel wire on ali otherwise the finish is just a series of scratches.
Those impact driver screwdrivers are absolutely invaluable!
For real, best money I’ve ever spent
Facts i can't belive i didn't know these existed before
It's nice when a job is completed to perfection!
hey cameron gracias por ser un maestro de la mecanica y dejarnos ese legado un saludo desde colombia
Such high quality and educational stuff here! I figured I needed special tools that were unobtainable. But I have most of these tools and am confident I could rebuild my 2 stroke if I needed to.
For all those who don’t have a blind bearing puller, find a flat end punch close to the inner diameter of the bearing. Take single ply toilet paper and wet it keep packing and hammering in. Bearing pops right out
It might sound weird, but bread works for that, too.
when I bought my honda cb450 in 1966 one of the things I also bought was a impact screw remover. Well worth having.
Started to really get into building bikes for the last year or 2 you’ve basically been my guide though it all lol great videos man 🤟🏻
Great attention to detail Cameron, I have seen similar results just with vapour blasting with wet soda in a cleaning cabinet like you already have. Maybe worth investing in this kit???? A bearing press is useful too. 👍🏻
Nice job cam, love the patience and detail. I love doing all this myself and your vids help me skip the trial and error drama. I'll be picking some stuff up at your store.
Even though I work on smaller engines, such as Zenoah's I've got a spare toaster oven that I can heat aluminum parts up in evenly to about 130-150F and then just freeze the bearing and the leiden frost effect will let them drop right in and will burn off quickly.
Great video. A trick I have always used for blind bearings is put the entire case in the oven. Let it get nice and heated then take it out and slam it down on a piece of plywood. They will fall right out.
One thing you should mention is that the screws retaining the bearings are JIS head screws and are super easily rounded out if not using the appropriate bit. Otherwise, keep up the good work, like your videos!
The JIS screw is signified by a single dot which can be seen in the video
When I did the case on my YZ 250 I popped the cases in the oven at 200 for about 2 hours and everything fell right out . I did the same thing when I installed the new bearing , but I put all the bearings in the freezer the day before and they dropped right in with no issues
Great to see the cr250 build back on track...keep up the good work fella
Of course another great video! Impact screwdriver is worth its weight in gold! I use mine ALL the time!
Dude, you are so inspiring to me. This is exactly the kind of stuff i also wanna do. Ps. I want your workshop xd
I wish I had your job get work on dirt bikes and ride dirt bikes all day everyday
One thing for anyone trying to tear an engine, heat up every bolt/nut to be safe, especially if you’re a rookie! Best tip out there. And drivers.. lots of drivers… I remember my first clutch nut, I had to grind it off.. and my second one I just gave up it on and left it. Nowadays first heat, and an impact driver.. works like a charm. PS I pre-heat EVERY bolt and nut even case bolts before. Only stuff like plastics I just wd40, those can be dremelled
Your work is awesome. This cr250 will shit all over hondas factory build haha I'm keen to see what you do with the topend, Oversizing? Porting? Port matching? Reed valves an cage? Carb? Endless possibilities mate keep it up love your vids, take care Mark.
Yo Cameron, I love your videos. Watched a bunch of them, all are nicely put together and informative. Right now I'm fully rebuilding a CR250 '00 engine, which I also going to be using your tips to get the crankcase halves looking this good. Thnx for sharing.
That brass shine actually looked kinda dope imo!
I really like the scotch brite wheel is awesome. Not overly aggressive. Wrap it up with some Aurosol on either regular bench buffer or dremel buffer pad and it will end up amazing.
Can you make a all in one video on how to rebuild a whole bike and tearing it down
Seriously inspired me to clean my engine.
Popping the bearings out would've been easier with a hydraulic press but you gotta work with what you got... great vids I enjoy watching them... I learn a lot despite being a mechanic by trade
This guy would be a good guy to live beside of
Im going to be cleaning an engine soon here. I was messing around with some steel wire cups and they cleaned it up very well, but left a darker finish. You think if i get a bunch of scotch brite wheels for a dremel that will get rid of that finish?
This bike is going to look amazing
Are you going to clean\ repair thr exhaust system?? If you are going to do it, can make the video? I need help with this
What i usually do is use a steel wire wheel on an angle grinder to remove all paint or rust, and then i spray the insides of the exhaust with oven cleaner a couple of times and then preassure wash it, then repaint it.
Bike frame paint removed
Also for that extra nice finish use some metal polish and some cotton buffing pads on the outside of the case but tape off the inside you don't want that stuff on the inside. Can also clear it for longer lasting and protection and easier cleaning.
tbh the brass color looked pretty dope
Dude, stunning work.. labor intensive to say the least, kinda puts new meaning to perseverance. I was just the luckiest S.O.B lately, i found a 1981 Honda XL 500 S that had been ridden 1 month and was dumped. Only damage was a split front plastic fender ,which has been replaced already. after the mishap the bike was stored for 37+ years . It was tarped and stayed in a heated garage for this near 40 yr. nap. Story is the owner fogged the cylinder, filled the fuel tank with a very rich oil gas mix . and filled the crankcase to the brim with Honda oil ,and isolated and drained the carb and fogged it to with marvel mystery oil. I drained every once of fuel gas ,drained and flushed the crankcase along with the fork oil. new battery, fresh fuel,new NGK spark plug. shot electronic spray cleaner and electronic lube in every electrical connection. Kicked it 3 times and it fired right up and idled like a swiss watch. drove a few miles with no incidence. only issue is that after 37 years the aluminum just on the cylinder head and a few other components (Wheel spokes) have been corroded with surface corrosion, very ugly on a brand new bike. I tried using the mag cleaner you showed but made the aluminum turn a darkish gray. so with a rag and some "BRASSO" seems to help but not getting the results i want. i want this bike "Museum Quality" cuz me will never sell it. The bike doesn't leak a drop of oil even after 500+ miles now, so i do not want to crack any covers on it. Also placed the entire carburetor in a Ultrsonic cleaning machine and it looks pristine now, but the engine wont fit . any suggestions? cuz I'm thinking of painting the cylinder portion black and leaving the outside edge of the fins high polished aluminum with all the other parts hand polished to like a chrome like finish. .
Those cases came out great didn't they. The brass wire while softer to use on aluminum, it does however transfer in to the pours of the aluminum leaving a goldish color. The goldish color is fine if that is the look you're after. I had the same thing happen before. Next use some Blue magic to further polish and help seal the cases.
Nice video...now that looks better than new..
Have you thought about filling the largest holes by alloy brazing? A Henrob torch is great for those tasks, using just 4 psi you don’t get any blowback and brazing isn’t hot enough to deform the cases. It’s very gentle. You would then just grind back the cases, and by this method you haven’t sacrificed any case thickness. It’s also used to restore irreplaceable vintage wire rims (like off classic Mercedes & Jaguar), and exhausts too. Better method IMO.
Never use a gas Torch in aluminium cases, the better way to pull out screw with loctite or ball bearing is to heat the parts in a hoven, 150° Celsius are quite enough and the thermal stress is very Little.
I am about to split my engine this weekend. But I think I am going to paint the cases and polish only the side covers.
Mate I love your content it’s always exciting to watch someone who’s patient with there work im keen to see this cr250 being put back together
for doing the mating faces on your engine covers, gasket surfaces etc. to get a flat surface and perfect gasket surface , try a sheet of glass and some lapping paste, if you cant find lapping paste, brasso works ok, even toothpaste will work with a bit of light oil, move your covers over the glass in a figure 8 motion with the lapping paste taking care of the surface flatness.
Looks killer. Whats the best way to keep it looking shiney. Have you tried any long lasting wax based product that lasts? Polished over painted any day for me. Nice work man.
Great finish, how are you going to protect the polished look?
Can’t wait till he next engine build video comes out in building an engine right now based on them
How do you keep this beautiful aluminum from instantly tarnishing again? Is there a coating that will keep it nice for a while?
I like the polished look, but serious question, does doing this remove the protective coat/paint that comes from the factory? Will this polished look rust faster if not kept clean?
Very good video man helps me a lot on my bike builds!
Hi in no mechanic…. I’ve just split the case on my 01 cr250 … my cases are at the stage you are now … why ares yours so clean ? … I’m putting in a vertex rebuild kit …. Can I now jet wash the cases with water to get the grease and oil off them … as I’m sending them away for aqua cleaning … ? I don’t have a parts washer 😢 … what do you suggest ?
Thank you for information. Rebuilding a grizzly 700 engine and it's filthy!
Good video, but do you think that polished aluminium won't corrode in a short time? IMHO Honda bikes comes with some coating from factory to prevent it. Stock Honda engines that I've seen are not shining, they are just grey.
Dmitriy Krupin certainly needs to be reanodized or it will turn into garbage within weeks.
The 250 is gonna look sick!
Impact screwdrivers saved me more times than i care to admit
If your trying to resurface gasket surfaces to have a perfect flat sealing surface wrap or even lightly glue sheets of sandpaper to a piece of plate glass and move the part over the surface rather than moving the sanding surface over the part plate glass is a true flat surface you can actually even resurface car engine heads this way but dirt bike engine surfaces work very well using this method many sanding blocks are not very flat and you can't sand the whole surface at the same time which in some cases lead to an uneven surface.
This soothes my soul...
My hips are uncontrollably humping like a dog as I watch this video. Nicely done! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️🤛✊☝️
hello awesome video, do you protect your motors with some sort of coating? or just wash it every ride?
Love your videos been following you for a long time, you should build yourself a vaporblaster, once you have one you can't live without it ! Saves so much time
Thank you for the video, crank case looks good!
Hey dude!!! I dont comment very often but I had to let you know how much i love your videos and your work!!! I really cant wait to see what your plans are for this bike! Those cases are getting me jealous 😂 I wish i could do what you do 😊 Youre my model when it comes time to work on my bike. Thanks alot for the vids you are my favourite youtuber hands down 😉 Wish i had the money to get some Pryme products and help you out with the build ! PS Love the more often vid release but dont forget to take your time 😊 Peace ! ✌
Thanks man!
When cleaning the cases how long will it take to oxidize again or look ugly ? How do you protect it after taking off the coating ? Please would like to know
Its like an asmr Video for Maschine freaks 😂😂🤙hold on buddy 🤙
cant wait to see this finished!
Did you use any spray on the cases after polishing them? Does it keep its shine?
. I’ve used an impact screwdriver for years. Work great! Another awesome video
Would you pre-clean cases in wash tank, or possibly simple green then let dry out?
What brand buffing wheel is that? Im looking for a large stand buffer. That one seems very nice..great work!
I thought that brass might transfer to the aluminum, I was like damn I hope he knows that! Metal smiths add brass coatings and finishes using brass brushes a lot. Pretty cool way to easily coat another metal.
Did you use the fine cleaning or just the cleaning scotch brite pads?
Another solid vid from The Man.
this is high quality content
Another idea for ends and edges and places where gaskets will go, tape down some large pieces of sandpaper on a flat surface and then slide the case over them to keep everything flat and smooth as you sand those edges. It near about eliminates any low or high areas on those surfaces. JMHO
I will watch the rest of this tomorrow, the movie "The God Father" has just started on tv
did you coat it with any product after polishing? I wanna do the same thing but I dont want it to rust after a while
Cameron there's a lot of pitting inside on where the flywheel sits would this be issue?
Do you use any sort of clear coat after cleaning aluminium parts?id imagine they’d go dull pretty quick.
While you had it all apart,how did each half of the cases and cylinder match at the transfer ports,seeing as you have a dremel at hand.I know modern engines are a lot cleaner and closer to spec.Not as bad as attaching the pipe to cylinder and checking for any mismatch.
Quality content.
Nice work. What stopped you from using different media in a hydroblaster?
You are a great guy Cameron I like how you Work I would like you to give me mechanical classes succes 👍👍
Love Your Videos Cameron! Your Living The Life!
Your awesome,so many people don't share this kind of stuff because they feel you should have to pay $1000 plus for something like this.when you can do it yourself and do better job then they would do 🤘😜awesome video bud looks brand new
Insane looking Cameron, great job.
Cameron can I ask why you never polished the intake and around the crank ? surely that would make for better power and delivery? i only ask as I was toying with idea and wouldn't mind some tips. or if there are any pro's or cons in doing this?
There's a lot of science and design behind porting. Not my specialty
Use a bbq grill to drop the bearings. Place tin-foil down then place the case on the tin. Have the grill on low for a few minutes and you'll see your bearings have fallen out
bro, after assemblying the engine parts again will it effect the engine performance ? Will it have the power and torque that was there when it was manufactured first at the company factory ? And what is name of the brush u used ?
I kinda liked the brass look on the case
Use extreme caution using that bearing puller. I suffered a nasty wound between my thumb and index finger. Pinched the joint and it bleed for a week.
Better than brand new
Aren't the cases powder coated to grey? Does it start to rust if you don't powder coat or paint it after doing this?
Dude, I love the shine. Could you tell us what expressiveness the pads you use for general shining up are? Thanks!
Thanks! All the details on the pads are here www.prymemx.com/collections/cleaningpads