I use a product from O'Riley, it's called aluminum brite. It removes everything down to the base aluminum. Works great, and rinses off with water, which neutralizes it. It's made for aluminum parts.
When I worked for an industrial gas company we tried many products for cleaning to remove hydrocarbons(oil and grease) from metals. Based on personal safety simple green heated up and applied with a scotch brite pad works pretty well. On aluminum with oil and grease removed, I will use diluted alumabrite with a scotch brite pad to bring out the shine in cast parts. Some alumabrite can be very caustic and grey aluminum (stain) so start out diluting it and test in small area.
Alumabrite is acidic. Hydrofluoric acid, most formulations. A caustic solution is what is needed to neutralize a spill. I'm thinking a 5% solution? Don't believe that neutralization number blindly - check it out, and it won't be on an SDS. Why not? Damn good question - probably because EPA is controlling format. If an organization policy says "call someone", that's a bad plan [almost no plan]. The first casualty in most true emergencies is communications: so and so is away from their desk, or worse... a casualty. Now what?
Challenge here is that over time aluminium becomes porous due to surface corrosion, and grease/oils become embedded and that it is almost impossible to remove. A good example in aluminium truck bodies and trailers which get subject to diesel fumes and particulates, most manufacturers will not paint over bare aluminium if it has been used out in for this very reason, as the paint will not adhere and short of an acid dip/etch (impossible due to size), there is nothing more than a clean and polish which can be done. Examples where people have spent $20-30K in labour and materials only to have it peel off in 6 months.
@@astrawally8448I know folks who buff flat machined aluminium engine cases on motorcycles and mag rims until they reflect like chrome. I didn't know you could do that, but other than Mother's car wax I don't know what you would use to prevent oxidation? I was amazed but I wouldn't recommend it and it wouldn't work on this application anyway.
Vapor Blasting/honing works really well. I've had a couple vintage intakes done by a local guy and they look brand new. If you have a special intake you need refinished, check for someone in your area who does vapor blasting.
Not exactly a DIY solution, which was the sole purpose of this video. Easy things you can do in your own to get that out of the box look back on an intake.
I am planning on doing my manifold as well so your review is very helpful. Thanks! My thinking is that you need clean off all the baked-on grease first and then get rid of some of the oxide that has developed on the original cast aluminum. The grease is easier to remove and there are a lot of options (brake/carb cleaners, solvents like acetone, soap & hot water etc.). Removing the oxidation requires more care because you are removing some of the aluminum surface. If you use liquids, like acids or bases, they are corrosive to the metal so make sure they are not too strong, and be very sure to clean the surface thoroughly with water when you're done. You wouldn't want any of those casting pits to become holes! And leaving any bleach behind can turn the aluminum dark or even black. Safer to use abrasives (paper, metal brushes, or walnut shell blast). Thanks again for taking the time to share your work.
The products used were all suggested from viewers who had their “go to” method for cleaning intakes. Simple Green is my go to, and while I’m a little biased in it, the results showed why it’s the best. If something else comes along that’s better, I’ll be on that bandwagon next!
I have been using a glass bead for years to do my manifolds , it saves a lot of elbow grease and does a great job especially in the hard to reach places .
I'm restoring and modifying an old Kawasaki KZ750e and the aluminium has oxidised BADLY!! (Bike store outside for 12 years under a porch!) This has helped immensely!! Thanks! L&R From Down Under. Andrew
My favorite thing for cleaning aluminum intakes is to use brake clean/carb clean to get the thick grime and varnish off first, then use either ATF or diesel fuel and soak the intake down with that and then use a nice brass scrub brush, it's time consuming but gives pretty good results.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I prefer the ATF or diesel fuel method because after your done, there's a nice protective film on the intake so it won't tarnish or corrode while on the shelf, and when you use that method it's best to soak it and scrub it down several times, everytime you scrub it you will see the trash getting lifted out of the aluminum pores, it's is extremely time consuming but the intake will look almost brand new when your done. I did that recently to my Martin turbo intake for an sbc and the intake was super grimey but it was too nice to sandblast plus I wanted the aluminum to have a kind of shiney finish where sandblasting gives a flat dull finish.
I use lacquer thinner and a "chip" brush (those cheapie throw away wood handled brushes that cost 50 cents or so) and then cut the bristles down to about half of their normal length. That gets it pretty good, another option is lacquer thinner and an air powered engine cleaning gun - gasoline works in both cases in place of the lacquer thinner and is just as good or better, but the smell will really get to you, even worse than the lacquer thinner. Both are best done outside, and definitely without any smoking, open flames, welding, grinding etc anywhere nearby. Another thing I like to do is take parts to a car wash, or get out my hot water pressure washer (but be prepared to get soaking wet!) and then with any of these options, you will still have to use a rag and some clean solvent to go over the whole thing to get it entirely clean. A brush alone won't get it all perfectly, nor will pressure. You can "abrasive blast" it with something like glass beads without having to do any wiping with a rag, but like you said it will change the surface appearance. And while you may not need to wipe it with a rag, you do still need to brush or spray away the bulk of the grime first and make sure there's no moisture or "wet" grease on the surface because the blaster will just spread that around and make a bigger mess, as well as contaminate the abrasive media which will prevent you from recycling and reusing it. And don't bother with the walnut shell media or anything similar because in my experience, it's just a waste of time and money. As you can see, there's no "one solution" for aluminum - it really takes a combination of things to get it done right. It's not like steel or iron where you can throw it in the hot-tank and let the caustic chemicals clean it up for you since those chemicals would damage the aluminum....
By far the easiest way I've found is to use the old harbor freight hand sandblast gun with pretty much any sort of media. Literally like brand new and its not hard to thoroughly clean out the intake tubes. Even the small crevices can't escape...
Again, very informative. My manifold is yellow from years of gas leaking on it and I have tried most of these cleaners to no avail. I did mention this issue to the business that I use for powder coating and they said they would glass bead blast it and powder coat it in clear. They have done a lot that way. Never new clear powder coat existed. They said it was hard as a rock and would never yellow. Just another option. Thanks for the lesson on using the different cleaners!
Edelbrock has worked with powder coating for the last decade or so. Their Endurashine finish is powder coating. The video I did with the dual quad was on a powder coated intake. They’re flawless and extremely resilient to oils, fuels and even finger prints. They applied a clear over the top of it and they’ve lasted quite a long time. Now with a new powder coated finish (Black Plasma and Chrome Plasma), it’s on to some new variations. I think what it boils down to is the prep and what they are coating with. All that said, coating can be a very durable, beautiful finish. Doesn’t yellow. But for the home DIYer, I’m not sure it’s possible.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Yes your correct, not for the DIY unless you want to invest the money and plan on doing restoration of parts on your own. Places like Eastwood sell the equipment if your willing to spend the money. Biggest expense is a oven. If you can find a used kitchen oven that will achieve 400 F. Then that will help out in the big expense of at all. I will see what it will cost to have my intake done as apposed to buying new and have it clear coated. My particular intake cost $480 new. Obviously the price of getting the old one clear coated as opposed to buying a new will make the decision. Again, just a suggestion if you can't seem to clean your intake.
Best stuff I ever used for this is a Cleanser type product called ZUD , it is still around and it works great , I was using this stuff back in the 70's . I forgot to mention I also used a brush with it to scrub the manifold and rinse it with water . Glass bead blast in my opinion is the absolute best but for a cleanup in between the ZUD does the trick .
One thing to remember about acetone is that it evaporates into acetylene gas. So, proper ventilation would be a good idea. Acetylene gas is heavier than air and will lay low to the ground which can create a hazard. It won't dissipate into the air easily. Also, I used a lot of Simple Greene to clean dies and production tooling. It worked very well, and in some cases it was all we were permitted to use because it safest to use. It's hard to get a brand new as cast finish because the surface of the aluminum develops a thin layer of oxidation that will dull the appearance. Very good video! I enjoyed it and learned something new!
Super Purple/Purple Power works great cleaning grimy engine bays. Just spray it on, let it sit then, hit it with a brush and finally a pressure washer. Might work equally well on intakes. 👍
Careful with purple power. I'm not sure what the bearing surfaces are made from but PP ate away the bearing surfaces on the VANOS unit on my M54B30 (BMW E46 engine).
The acids etch the metal, and when properly neutralized are a good base for primer and paint. If you want to leave the as-cast semi-gloss of aluminum or polish it, I'd skip the acid and use a cleaner.
The only thing I didn’t like about the glass beading was it was more shiny when it was done. I like that dull, as cast look when they are new. But I TOTALLY agree. Scrubbing gets old!
That's what I use for all my aluminum parts, the rear crossover for the rearend on my vettes, manifolds, valve covers, anything aluminum. Gets all the grease, stains, paint, everything down to base aluminum. Even aluminum heads. Just rinse with water to neutralize it when done, can pick it up from O'Riley's and doesn't cost that much. Pour it in a spray bottle. Works great.
Great video! I couldn’t quit watching it. Something relaxing and satisfying about taking a piece and making it look great. I wanted to see you use water because I think the brush is really what did the cleaning.
Thanks! Water won’t lift the oil and dirt. That intake was lightly pressure washed when I brought it home. Didn’t really remove any of that deep down nastiness.
I have heard very good things about Simple Green Extreme for cleaning and degreasing aluminum. It was specifically engineered for use on aircraft, and will not etch or eat aluminum. My experience indicates that kerosene is just as effective as any canned aerosol cleaner, and less caustic, although it is flammable.
Used kerosene a lot when I was younger, but it’s not a detergent so it leaves behind a lot of what it just took off. Other than that, it does clean well!
As a former aircraft mechanic in the marine corps (KC-130s) I can tell you that we were forbidden from using simple green on our aircraft because it is corrosive to aluminum if not completely cleaned off. Having said that, if you completely clean it I'm sure it is fine.
@@Monkeybizness707 Simple Green Extreme is very different than their main product line. Extreme is specifically formulated for use on AL. The regular Simple Green product will etch AL with a vengeance.
I found that starting fluid does a wonderful job of getting down to the bare metal, on aluminum that is. I was trying to clean off the dirt and grease off my mountain bike sprocket, and just for the heck of it, i tried starting fluid And you wouldn't believe how nice and clean that came out. I wiped it all down and sprayed it with a clear.
I've successfully used sodium bicarbonate as a blasting medium on cast alloys to bring up that 'as cast' shine. Due to its fine particles, it does a better job in the detail. Being water soluble, it can be easily removed with little chance of leaving behind the blasting medium, which is an issue with walnut, silica, etc.
I used some old sandblasting sand on an old 289 torquer and then blew it off with air then sprayed self etching clear coat for marine engines looked great and still does that was a few years ago but I can't find the self etching clear coat any more
Just use degreaser and a pressure washer, then use some aluminum wheel cleaner for open pore aluminum. Don't let it stay on there long, maybe 30-45 seconds. Then hose it off with a garden hose. Maybe Don't even put on the nozzle and the water pressure not up very high. You don't want that cleaner getting on you as it is an acid. Kinda mild acid but still, SAFETY FIRST. Gloves long sleeve shirt, long pants, safety glasses. All this hurts a lot less than having the cleaner hurt you. Anyway you will love the results. It works great. I've used it on an aluminum water pump that was looking dingy too. Just tape up around the openings and the seal area and don't forget the weep hole. Made it look new.
After cleaning, leave it natural and douse it with wd-40. Dry it off with a microfiber towel. Any stains in the future can be cleaned with a blast of wd and a wipe with a microfiber towel
I use an industrial vleaner called IT-638. Its very effective and also have anti-corrosion in it so you can take it easy with the drying. Aluminium safe and also works in the ultrasonic.
I had an Edelbrock performer intake that I hand painted the Edelbrock performer (just the name) in matching paint to the car and then shot PPG dcu 2021. It looked great. No signs of yellowing after 6500 miles. Hard as nails.
The thing about the brushes is inducing corrosion because of the dissimilar metals between the aluminum and stainless steel. Stainless steel can seriously corrode aluminum
Best things iver ever used with cleaning alloy parts, back when I used to for work caterpillar (westrac) was the CAT brand "PENETRATING OIL" Literally spray it on, leave it a few minutes the a quick scrub. But the cheaper way I found was using "5 stars - Degreaser" I'm quite certain the crushed walnut shell is for car panels etc because the friction from using sand heats what ever your sand blasting where the walnut shell grit is meant to have sharper edges and doesn't cause as much friction so less heat.
Lots of different products out there to clean cast aluminum. Kind of cool to hear of ones I’ve never heard of before. In the end all that really matters is it’s clean and in the condition you want it when it’s done. Thanks for the comment!
when i was growing up it was understood shooting clear on an intake would indeed yellow. i think because of the heat. however, modern clears have come a long way so i'd be interested if better results would be seen with the modern stuff.
I used muratic acid to get rid of all the fuel and oil staining and in spots where I had cleaned it brought it to pretty nice finish, I'm just trying to get a clean surface for paint but I'll use simple green to finish it
Oven cleaner says specifically right in the instructions not to use on aluminum. Wheel cleaner is a polish. If you’re looking for a brighter finish, I’m sure that would be more to your liking. I’m after a dull, as cast finish that clear of stains and dirt/grit/grease/etc.
The reason why you really don’t want to use a metal brush on aluminum is the metal brush leaves traces of metal particles behind that will rust overtime. Same thing as if you’re cleaning stainless.
good video thanks for making and sharing it. before i watched yer video i had been searching the web. and one of them. mentioned a simple green id not used or knew about. Simpe Green Extreme Aircraft & Precision Cleaner. used on aircraft bodies, safe to be applied on all surfaces. including fabric , and carbon fiber. it also is safe on gaskets, seals and rubber hoses. etc. also found some household items to try which i will be attempting. cream of tartar. is one 2 tsp of vinegar per 1qt water. boil 15minutes. then put part in mixture (it doesnt say wethet to keep boiling or to turn off heat after boiling for 15minutes ) then leave partin solution to soak for. a decent amount of minutes. says if large area. same process except take rag. and saturate it in solution and wipe part etc. lemon and kosher salt. baking soda and water and vinegar are a couple others. these are mentioned as oxidation removers or general cleaning may not be viable degreaser. but all safe for cast aluminum. also theres this general cleaner like simple green. found at dollar general. its in a gallon jug. and yellow in color. ive seen a few. videos. of people making at home hot tanks using this cleaner with 55 gal drums to ckean cast aluminum blocks, heads etc. with pretty good results with just soaking it. ne ways. hope this helps. be sure and do search for the specific amounts and length of time needed or being used so that to ensure no surprises results or reactions and safety. etc.
I have tried M.E.K (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) that I bought at my local hardware store and it does a good cleaning and brightening job .But only tested a small area ready to try again.
Super clean then into the blast cabinet.. Then either a 2k clear and no single stage clear will hold up! Or high heat paint of the color of your choice and done. Skip all the chemicals they take to long.
take it your local shop who has a tumbler after you give it a basic clean. It will look like it was just poured at the foundry!! Tried blasting wtih different medias, nothing wrong with it but the tumbler..holy cr4p killer results!
I've had good results using carb cleaner....i stand the intake up on edge and spray the heck out of it. Standing it up allows the cleaner to run off....where it puddles up, it leaves a stain, so you may have to chase it around a bit.
Oven Cleaner!! Soak it down, work on it a bit with a brush, then let it soak for a while....even better if it sits (soaks) in the sun on a hot summer day. Finish with a good pressure washer to rinse it off. Great content!!! FYI: Be careful with the muriatic acid. It can/will react with aluminum to make hydrogen gas!!!
Blasting works best with soda on aluminum. I know this will sound nuts, but WD40 followed by Napa or Tractor Supply Aluminum Brightner(aluminum trailer cleaner) and a pressure washer seems to work best. Other than hot tanking that is.
Judging from your results, i think if you took one of the good cleaners and run it through the parts washer that you had specifically for cleaning aluminum car parts you would have a quick and reliable outcome. The acetone cleaned as good as the starting fluid I used, you just didn't have the pressure behind the fluid. Most people just have one parts washer but it would be good to have something especially set up for special purpose cleaning. I would use a good ventilation hood for some of these projects.
Please try what i use on anything aluminum. 1st, Use Easy Off oven cleaner first step. (No other brand) Then use NAPPA Auto Parts Aluma Brite on the second step. It'll be just like new again!
I kinda like the Simple Green test you done . Just for the fact that it is a milder,less poisonous solution. No matter what cleaner is used, I myself have had the best luck or results most of the time using a stainless steel wire brush ,. But of course you would would only want to use it for cast finished parts,. I definitely wouldn't recommend it for a polished finished surface, unless of course the finish doesn't matter and. The main objective is just to clean the parts. The stainless steel brush scrubs the the contaminates out, as opposed to a regular steel brush seems to scrub them in. If that makes any sense. Tim from Wisconsin.
Your welcome,. As about the subject of clear coating an aluminum intake manifold. I never seem to have very much luck with it it lasting very long for me. Instead if I have parts that I want to keep looking aluminum color,. I like to just paint them with the aluminum color Rust-Oleum Bar B que grill paint. I prefer the original satin one,. The Rust-Oleum "ULTRA" grill paint doesn't look as good in my opinion.
I would have started on the bottom side till figuring out what works and I would have begun by soaking it in the simple green with a good sized brush with the soak solution then rinse with scrubbing and I’ve always heard glass beading is what you do to intakes
It’s a garbage intake so it didn’t matter where I started. It was going to end up in the scrap! Soaking for sure is not advised on a material as porous as aluminum.
Pretty much all those 'cleaners' work well, but what about all the small corners and angles you can't get the wire/plastic brushes into? I've used 'Oven Cleaner' or BB Q grill cleaner and they do a good job and you can keep re-applying it until the can is empty because it's so cheap. Let it soak in all day and then pressure wash it. I powder coated a few in my oven. For the most part it filled in the rough casting surface and I can clean it in minutes with some Windex, but that's just me. I've soaked them in Zep too. It cleans them inside and out.
Oven cleaner always gets mentioned but if you look at the instructions it specifically says to NOT use on aluminum. It etches and dissolves the aluminum.
Well sir, what works for me is a fresh bag of silica sand for blasting. I use new because after awhile it becomes powdered and cleaning takes longer. Then I use a tap for all threaded holes and blow out all debris. After a thorough blowdown with hi pressure air, I hose it down with WD40 and damp dry.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I hope it helps. Been using it for many years on all cast aluminum, Intakes, pump housings, alternator frames etc…it minimizes oxidation. I run a (alum.)6-pack intake and spray a light coat on once every size months…no more ox. 👍
Let me tell you a truck driver secret ( Costic soda ) mix 1 and a half cups to two gallons of water spray it on let it sit for about a minute or two then wash off with plenty of water wear eye protection and don't spray on pain it will take it off
Thanks, Thanks, Thanks...And yes, Dawn does work well but s you said, it does NOT remove some stains. and it does need to be washed/wiped off after use.
I like Simple Green, and Awesome brand cleaner. Blasting with glass beads, plastic media, or walnut shells all work. It can be a pain to get the glass beads out of the bolt holes!!
@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah with a removed intake pressure wash saves some elbow grease. A wheel would leave a shadow in the texture of the rough cast. It would work great on machined surfaces though.
Sams club has a gallon jug of commercial kitchen degreaser that is the best I’ve used yet! I haven’t tried it on a aluminum intake but it I’ll strip grease of everything else with no scrubbing.
Yeah I took some extra precautions handling that stuff. Not sure if it was heard well on the video but I always had the fab running in case it created fumes. It would have to be pretty perfect for me to want to use it with any frequency. But that also might just be my ignorance in how to handle it.
I was gonna say some hot water and some dawn, dip the whole thing in a bucket if you can and let it soak. I'd say you almost have to use a pressure washer after giving it a good scrub down then wash it off. Probably wouldn't get heavy stains off though I wouldn't think. I've only done smaller parts like that and entire engine bays.
Acetone I try on stubborn stains sometimes, but first.... mineral spirits. Most staining is from gasoline, and spirits lift out varnishes well - oil or gas.
I have used a sand blaster works very good, just turn the air pressure down for aluminum = 75 - 80 lbs. Tape up any surfaces that you dont want blssted.
How I like to clean my intakes is to use a 1/2 cup of borax (washing powder) mixed with warm water then I add dawn diswashing liquid (blue). The muriatic acid works great on steel and iron but not great for aluminum. I also use a parts washing brush and a smaller brush. ButI let it soak for awhile. Not a fan of acetone because it is carcinogenic
I used different brands of clear, on painted valve covers in the past and there was a yellowing, i havent used 2k clear but reviews i saw on youtube was once you insert the top button in bottom of can to activate hardener its very close to a real clear coat job, seems to spray very well and doesnt yellow, i dont know if it holds up to heat.
@Muscle Car Solutions some of these guys don't get it. You did a test with basic cleaners,,which you did a great job,,now if we had a bunch of money, then we would buy a brand new one,,but for the average person,,this was a great video,,thanks again
I clean car rims, you could try wheel cleaner we use Meguiars Wheel Brightener...do not let it dwell too long out of direct sun, as it can stain. I take raw cast aluminium and then polish it to a fine shine.Thank you for your testing.
For some folks that might be the ticket. I’m sure it brings out the brightness using a polish/cleaner. On my stuff I usually want it back to that as cast looking finish like it came from the factory with. Not shiny. Just that nice dull aluminum finish.
When you do comparison tests, you should always have a control (like clean water} just demonstrate that its the product removing the stain and not just the liquidity of the substance you are using.
Hey, if you really want to make the problem go away - send it to me! I could really use one for my autocrosser build lol. But seriously now the best I have seen is hydroblasting and the penultimate is dry ice blasting (who can afford one of those rigs in their home workshop though apart from Rebuild Rescue)
@@remijiomendez1698 there’s a reason why the instructions say not to use it on aluminum. I’ve seen results that are less than ideal. Turns the color black.
I ALWAYS paint my manifolds. Paint protects what's under it. Unfortunately I now have a second hand intake that was not painted. I'm just going to wire brush the heck out of it so it will accept Hunter Green.
I think that manifold just had dirt on it. Not Oxidized like an old intake. I tried all of your cleaners and did nothing on mine. Also when you add water to bleach and acid add the water first. If you ever splash it you want the weak mixture to hit your skin. I washed concrete walls and flat work for years with no protection and learned this way. Never wore protection on hands or eyes and was fine. Also cleaned tile floors with a sponge, no gloves just a 5 gallon bucket and bare hands since the early 70s and never a problem with the Acid. Only burns if I had cuts on my hands. They healed faster too.
Seems to be the general misunderstanding with this video. Wasn’t looking to polish or brighten the intake. Just clean and return back to the as cast finish.
@@MuscleCarSolutions i had some dirt lines on a manifold that didnt fit in the ultrasonic cleaner all the way and it took it right off. It does make it brighter, but the point i was making is that it does clean. Its just a spray on and spray off deal too. Just had two little spots that required scrubbing. You can probably use that suff right on the engine safely for regular maintnance too.
@@laurensiemens1436 I’m no chemist but I thought muriatic acid is the same and hydrochloric acid. But to answer the question, no. Only the muriatic that I used in this video. The results were rather poor.
One big issue is the concentration of the cleaner. I used a purple degreaser from Walmart that was about $12 for 2.5 gallons and once I started using a higher concentration, it changed things. Another is temp and pressure. Check out the professional "dish washer" type cleaner where it uses hot pressurized cleaner that spins around the parts. Any harsh brush is going to dig into the metal and change it. Stiff nylon after a long soaking is the key. There is a non-yellow clear from a can, Eastwood is one of the places that sells it, but it'll always be different from new. Media blasting AFTER cleaning is the way to get back to newish. The size and hardness of the media is a big deal.
I love these diy videos and this one is awesome. But Just mask the machine surface with gorilla tape and spend $20 for a shop to bead blast it. Use brake kleen to remove tape residue. If you clean it yourself you’re paying half that in chemicals + your time. 90% of the people that scrub them don’t finish anyways because it’s tedious and sucks. But hey if you have a lot of time and patience knock yourself out. Or you can buy the HF sand blaster kit a buy glass and you’ll be able to do much more things too. Just my experience with it
These tips are probably better as far as getting along with the wife, I ran an intake through the dishwasher! Worked great, wife wasn’t too happy though. True story!
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Very informative!!!
Thank You 😊
Thanks bud!
I use a product from O'Riley, it's called aluminum brite. It removes everything down to the base aluminum. Works great, and rinses off with water, which neutralizes it. It's made for aluminum parts.
Is phosphoric acid ?
When I worked for an industrial gas company we tried many products for cleaning to remove hydrocarbons(oil and grease) from metals. Based on personal safety simple green heated up and applied with a scotch brite pad works pretty well. On aluminum with oil and grease removed, I will use diluted alumabrite with a scotch brite pad to bring out the shine in cast parts. Some alumabrite can be very caustic and grey aluminum (stain) so start out diluting it and test in small area.
Alumabrite is acidic. Hydrofluoric acid, most formulations. A caustic solution is what is needed to neutralize a spill. I'm thinking a 5% solution? Don't believe that neutralization number blindly - check it out, and it won't be on an SDS. Why not? Damn good question - probably because EPA is controlling format. If an organization policy says "call someone", that's a bad plan [almost no plan]. The first casualty in most true emergencies is communications: so and so is away from their desk, or worse... a casualty. Now what?
Challenge here is that over time aluminium becomes porous due to surface corrosion, and grease/oils become embedded and that it is almost impossible to remove. A good example in aluminium truck bodies and trailers which get subject to diesel fumes and particulates, most manufacturers will not paint over bare aluminium if it has been used out in for this very reason, as the paint will not adhere and short of an acid dip/etch (impossible due to size), there is nothing more than a clean and polish which can be done. Examples where people have spent $20-30K in labour and materials only to have it peel off in 6 months.
@@astrawally8448I know folks who buff flat machined aluminium engine cases on motorcycles and mag rims until they reflect like chrome. I didn't know you could do that, but other than Mother's car wax I don't know what you would use to prevent oxidation? I was amazed but I wouldn't recommend it and it wouldn't work on this application anyway.
Vapor Blasting/honing works really well. I've had a couple vintage intakes done by a local guy and they look brand new. If you have a special intake you need refinished, check for someone in your area who does vapor blasting.
Not exactly a DIY solution, which was the sole purpose of this video. Easy things you can do in your own to get that out of the box look back on an intake.
@@MuscleCarSolutions true and you outlined some good alternatives.
I am planning on doing my manifold as well so your review is very helpful. Thanks! My thinking is that you need clean off all the baked-on grease first and then get rid of some of the oxide that has developed on the original cast aluminum. The grease is easier to remove and there are a lot of options (brake/carb cleaners, solvents like acetone, soap & hot water etc.). Removing the oxidation requires more care because you are removing some of the aluminum surface. If you use liquids, like acids or bases, they are corrosive to the metal so make sure they are not too strong, and be very sure to clean the surface thoroughly with water when you're done. You wouldn't want any of those casting pits to become holes! And leaving any bleach behind can turn the aluminum dark or even black. Safer to use abrasives (paper, metal brushes, or walnut shell blast). Thanks again for taking the time to share your work.
The products used were all suggested from viewers who had their “go to” method for cleaning intakes. Simple Green is my go to, and while I’m a little biased in it, the results showed why it’s the best. If something else comes along that’s better, I’ll be on that bandwagon next!
I have been using a glass bead for years to do my manifolds , it saves a lot of elbow grease and does a great job especially in the hard to reach places .
Agree,,using a finer glassbead gives nice results wihtout pitting. Quick and easy just make sure none is left inside..easy to miss
I'm restoring and modifying an old Kawasaki KZ750e and the aluminium has oxidised BADLY!! (Bike store outside for 12 years under a porch!)
This has helped immensely!! Thanks!
L&R From Down Under. Andrew
My favorite thing for cleaning aluminum intakes is to use brake clean/carb clean to get the thick grime and varnish off first, then use either ATF or diesel fuel and soak the intake down with that and then use a nice brass scrub brush, it's time consuming but gives pretty good results.
Now that’s a new one. I might give that a try on this intake.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I prefer the ATF or diesel fuel method because after your done, there's a nice protective film on the intake so it won't tarnish or corrode while on the shelf, and when you use that method it's best to soak it and scrub it down several times, everytime you scrub it you will see the trash getting lifted out of the aluminum pores, it's is extremely time consuming but the intake will look almost brand new when your done. I did that recently to my Martin turbo intake for an sbc and the intake was super grimey but it was too nice to sandblast plus I wanted the aluminum to have a kind of shiney finish where sandblasting gives a flat dull finish.
I’ll have to give it a try. Sounds like a lot of work!
I use lacquer thinner and a "chip" brush (those cheapie throw away wood handled brushes that cost 50 cents or so) and then cut the bristles down to about half of their normal length. That gets it pretty good, another option is lacquer thinner and an air powered engine cleaning gun - gasoline works in both cases in place of the lacquer thinner and is just as good or better, but the smell will really get to you, even worse than the lacquer thinner. Both are best done outside, and definitely without any smoking, open flames, welding, grinding etc anywhere nearby. Another thing I like to do is take parts to a car wash, or get out my hot water pressure washer (but be prepared to get soaking wet!) and then with any of these options, you will still have to use a rag and some clean solvent to go over the whole thing to get it entirely clean. A brush alone won't get it all perfectly, nor will pressure. You can "abrasive blast" it with something like glass beads without having to do any wiping with a rag, but like you said it will change the surface appearance. And while you may not need to wipe it with a rag, you do still need to brush or spray away the bulk of the grime first and make sure there's no moisture or "wet" grease on the surface because the blaster will just spread that around and make a bigger mess, as well as contaminate the abrasive media which will prevent you from recycling and reusing it. And don't bother with the walnut shell media or anything similar because in my experience, it's just a waste of time and money.
As you can see, there's no "one solution" for aluminum - it really takes a combination of things to get it done right. It's not like steel or iron where you can throw it in the hot-tank and let the caustic chemicals clean it up for you since those chemicals would damage the aluminum....
By far the easiest way I've found is to use the old harbor freight hand sandblast gun with pretty much any sort of media. Literally like brand new and its not hard to thoroughly clean out the intake tubes. Even the small crevices can't escape...
I have a harbor freight system. It’s getting replaced next shop I occupy and have the room! Extremely useful tool!
I use bakingsoda in mine. Very effective and gentle at the sametime. However, it so gentle that it won't remove stains.
Again, very informative. My manifold is yellow from years of gas leaking on it and I have tried most of these cleaners to no avail.
I did mention this issue to the business that I use for powder coating and they said they would glass bead blast it and powder coat it in clear. They have done a lot that way. Never new clear powder coat existed. They said it was hard as a rock and would never yellow.
Just another option. Thanks for the lesson on using the different cleaners!
Edelbrock has worked with powder coating for the last decade or so. Their Endurashine finish is powder coating. The video I did with the dual quad was on a powder coated intake. They’re flawless and extremely resilient to oils, fuels and even finger prints. They applied a clear over the top of it and they’ve lasted quite a long time. Now with a new powder coated finish (Black Plasma and Chrome Plasma), it’s on to some new variations. I think what it boils down to is the prep and what they are coating with. All that said, coating can be a very durable, beautiful finish. Doesn’t yellow. But for the home DIYer, I’m not sure it’s possible.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Yes your correct, not for the DIY unless you want to invest the money and plan on doing restoration of parts on your own. Places like Eastwood sell the equipment if your willing to spend the money. Biggest expense is a oven. If you can find a used kitchen oven that will achieve 400 F. Then that will help out in the big expense of at all.
I will see what it will cost to have my intake done as apposed to buying new and have it clear coated. My particular intake cost $480 new. Obviously the price of getting the old one clear coated as opposed to buying a new will make the decision. Again, just a suggestion if you can't seem to clean your intake.
Clear powder coat is not "new"....
Can be more specific on your reply?@@stevemiller7654
Best stuff I ever used for this is a Cleanser type product called ZUD , it is still around and it works great , I was using this stuff back in the 70's . I forgot to mention I also used a brush with it to scrub the manifold and rinse it with water . Glass bead blast in my opinion is the absolute best but for a cleanup in between the ZUD does the trick .
Gasoline is a solvent. cheapest and effective. Hence the phrase, "Gas is for cleaning, Alcohol is for drinking and Nitro is for racing."
Same reason why I didn’t like the muriatic acid, other than the poor results. The risk isn’t worth the reward!
I race with gas all the time wtf fuck nitro
Gas is alcohol too you can drink it and get drunk
One thing to remember about acetone is that it evaporates into acetylene gas. So, proper ventilation would be a good idea. Acetylene gas is heavier than air and will lay low to the ground which can create a hazard. It won't dissipate into the air easily. Also, I used a lot of Simple Greene to clean dies and production tooling. It worked very well, and in some cases it was all we were permitted to use because it safest to use. It's hard to get a brand new as cast finish because the surface of the aluminum develops a thin layer of oxidation that will dull the appearance. Very good video! I enjoyed it and learned something new!
Simple Green will always be the go to cleaner in this situation.
Super Purple/Purple Power works great cleaning grimy engine bays. Just spray it on, let it sit then, hit it with a brush and finally a pressure washer. Might work equally well on intakes. 👍
Careful with purple power. I'm not sure what the bearing surfaces are made from but PP ate away the bearing surfaces on the VANOS unit on my M54B30 (BMW E46 engine).
I put mine in white Vinegar for a week looks like new when i wash it off.
Vapor blasting returns them to the out of the box look have done a few now and love the finish
you don't use a steel wire brush on aluminum because the steel will rust and end up staining the aluminum.
Excellent point.
The acids etch the metal, and when properly neutralized are a good base for primer and paint. If you want to leave the as-cast semi-gloss of aluminum or polish it, I'd skip the acid and use a cleaner.
Great video!! I always glass bead mine for that out of the box new look. No time for scrubbing lol!!
The only thing I didn’t like about the glass beading was it was more shiny when it was done. I like that dull, as cast look when they are new. But I TOTALLY agree. Scrubbing gets old!
I never personally used it but I saw someone clean one with a product called aluminum bright and it worked very well.
I go for back to an intakes as cast condition. Im not big on chrome or shiny stuff. Others might love that as an option.
That's what I use for all my aluminum parts, the rear crossover for the rearend on my vettes, manifolds, valve covers, anything aluminum. Gets all the grease, stains, paint, everything down to base aluminum. Even aluminum heads. Just rinse with water to neutralize it when done, can pick it up from O'Riley's and doesn't cost that much. Pour it in a spray bottle. Works great.
Great video! I couldn’t quit watching it. Something relaxing and satisfying about taking a piece and making it look great. I wanted to see you use water because I think the brush is really what did the cleaning.
Thanks! Water won’t lift the oil and dirt. That intake was lightly pressure washed when I brought it home. Didn’t really remove any of that deep down nastiness.
@@MuscleCarSolutionswire wheel on a drill brother.
I have heard very good things about Simple Green Extreme for cleaning and degreasing aluminum. It was specifically engineered for use on aircraft, and will not etch or eat aluminum.
My experience indicates that kerosene is just as effective as any canned aerosol cleaner, and less caustic, although it is flammable.
Used kerosene a lot when I was younger, but it’s not a detergent so it leaves behind a lot of what it just took off. Other than that, it does clean well!
As a former aircraft mechanic in the marine corps (KC-130s) I can tell you that we were forbidden from using simple green on our aircraft because it is corrosive to aluminum if not completely cleaned off. Having said that, if you completely clean it I'm sure it is fine.
@@Monkeybizness707 Simple Green Extreme is very different than their main product line. Extreme is specifically formulated for use on AL. The regular Simple Green product will etch AL with a vengeance.
I found that starting fluid does a wonderful job of getting down to the bare metal, on aluminum that is. I was trying to clean off the dirt and grease off my mountain bike sprocket, and just for the heck of it, i tried starting fluid And you wouldn't believe how nice and clean that came out. I wiped it all down and sprayed it with a clear.
I've successfully used sodium bicarbonate as a blasting medium on cast alloys to bring up that 'as cast' shine. Due to its fine particles, it does a better job in the detail. Being water soluble, it can be easily removed with little chance of leaving behind the blasting medium, which is an issue with walnut, silica, etc.
Not stupid at all. A mistake made and learned from. Little smarter, and maybe someone else doesn't make the same mistake. Great content 👌🏽
I used some old sandblasting sand on an old 289 torquer and then blew it off with air then sprayed self etching clear coat for marine engines looked great and still does that was a few years ago but I can't find the self etching clear coat any more
Just use degreaser and a pressure washer, then use some aluminum wheel cleaner for open pore aluminum. Don't let it stay on there long, maybe 30-45 seconds. Then hose it off with a garden hose. Maybe Don't even put on the nozzle and the water pressure not up very high. You don't want that cleaner getting on you as it is an acid. Kinda mild acid but still, SAFETY FIRST. Gloves long sleeve shirt, long pants, safety glasses. All this hurts a lot less than having the cleaner hurt you. Anyway you will love the results. It works great. I've used it on an aluminum water pump that was looking dingy too. Just tape up around the openings and the seal area and don't forget the weep hole. Made it look new.
After cleaning, leave it natural and douse it with wd-40. Dry it off with a microfiber towel. Any stains in the future can be cleaned with a blast of wd and a wipe with a microfiber towel
I use an industrial vleaner called IT-638. Its very effective and also have anti-corrosion in it so you can take it easy with the drying. Aluminium safe and also works in the ultrasonic.
I had an Edelbrock performer intake that I hand painted the Edelbrock performer (just the name) in matching paint to the car and then shot PPG dcu 2021. It looked great. No signs of yellowing after 6500 miles. Hard as nails.
The thing about the brushes is inducing corrosion because of the dissimilar metals between the aluminum and stainless steel. Stainless steel can seriously corrode aluminum
Best things iver ever used with cleaning alloy parts, back when I used to for work caterpillar (westrac) was the CAT brand "PENETRATING OIL"
Literally spray it on, leave it a few minutes the a quick scrub.
But the cheaper way I found was using "5 stars - Degreaser"
I'm quite certain the crushed walnut shell is for car panels etc because the friction from using sand heats what ever your sand blasting where the walnut shell grit is meant to have sharper edges and doesn't cause as much friction so less heat.
Lots of different products out there to clean cast aluminum. Kind of cool to hear of ones I’ve never heard of before. In the end all that really matters is it’s clean and in the condition you want it when it’s done. Thanks for the comment!
when i was growing up it was understood shooting clear on an intake would indeed yellow. i think because of the heat. however, modern clears have come a long way so i'd be interested if better results would be seen with the modern stuff.
Wondering the same thing. I’m sure someone has some experience with good prep and product that works well.
I really did not expect to see the Simple Green at the top of the list like that. Thanks for the product review and demonstration.
It’s been a long time favorite. Edelbrock seems to think so too. Cuts through all the garage and stains and washes off clean.
I used muratic acid to get rid of all the fuel and oil staining and in spots where I had cleaned it brought it to pretty nice finish, I'm just trying to get a clean surface for paint but I'll use simple green to finish it
The best is to be able to spray it on and that is EAGLE mag wheel cleaner for non coated wheels (etching spray) Also the yellow can of oven cleaner
Oven cleaner says specifically right in the instructions not to use on aluminum. Wheel cleaner is a polish. If you’re looking for a brighter finish, I’m sure that would be more to your liking. I’m after a dull, as cast finish that clear of stains and dirt/grit/grease/etc.
The reason why you really don’t want to use a metal brush on aluminum is the metal brush leaves traces of metal particles behind that will rust overtime. Same thing as if you’re cleaning stainless.
Stainless wire brush is fine (just like if prepping aluminum for TIG)
But, yeah steel wool or brush is not a great idea.
good video thanks for making and sharing it. before i watched yer video i had been searching the web. and one of them. mentioned a simple green id not used or knew about.
Simpe Green Extreme Aircraft & Precision Cleaner.
used on aircraft bodies, safe to be applied on all surfaces. including fabric , and carbon fiber. it also is safe on gaskets, seals and rubber hoses. etc.
also found some household items to try which i will be attempting.
cream of tartar. is one
2 tsp of vinegar per 1qt water. boil 15minutes. then put part in mixture (it doesnt say wethet to keep boiling or to turn off heat after boiling for 15minutes )
then leave partin solution to soak for. a decent amount of minutes.
says if large area. same process except take rag. and saturate it in solution and wipe part etc.
lemon and kosher salt.
baking soda and water and vinegar
are a couple others.
these are mentioned as oxidation removers or general cleaning may not be viable degreaser.
but all safe for cast aluminum.
also theres this general cleaner like simple green. found at dollar general. its in a gallon jug. and yellow in color. ive seen a few. videos. of people making at home hot tanks using this cleaner with 55 gal drums to ckean cast aluminum blocks, heads etc. with pretty good results with just soaking it.
ne ways. hope this helps.
be sure and do search for the specific amounts and length of time needed or being used so that to ensure no surprises results or reactions and safety. etc.
we use simple green to clean tanks in the Army
Hi .. What is the best way too remove Orange paint from a aluminum manifold ? Thanks Mike
I have tried M.E.K (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) that I bought at my local hardware store and it does a good cleaning and brightening job .But only tested a small area ready to try again.
simple green definitely safer to use
When I clear coat bare aluminum I use a satin clear coat. The glossy makes it look weird to me.
Super clean then into the blast cabinet.. Then either a 2k clear and no single stage clear will hold up! Or high heat paint of the color of your choice and done. Skip all the chemicals they take to long.
take it your local shop who has a tumbler after you give it a basic clean.
It will look like it was just poured at the foundry!! Tried blasting wtih different medias, nothing wrong with it but the tumbler..holy cr4p killer results!
I have acetone, citrus degreaser, and some purple hd simple green. Which one to use?
I've had good results using carb cleaner....i stand the intake up on edge and spray the heck out of it.
Standing it up allows the cleaner to run off....where it puddles up, it leaves a stain, so you may have to chase it around a bit.
Oven Cleaner!!
Soak it down, work on it a bit with a brush, then let it soak for a while....even better if it sits (soaks) in the sun on a hot summer day. Finish with a good pressure washer to rinse it off.
Great content!!!
FYI: Be careful with the muriatic acid. It can/will react with aluminum to make hydrogen gas!!!
I came here looking for a way to take corrosion off an old Weiand and this I will try, Thanks!
Keep it simple: Simple Green
We use a lot of renews coil cleaner it's actually designed to clean aluminum
Blasting works best with soda on aluminum. I know this will sound nuts, but WD40 followed by Napa or Tractor Supply Aluminum Brightner(aluminum trailer cleaner) and a pressure washer seems to work best. Other than hot tanking that is.
Judging from your results, i think if you took one of the good cleaners and run it through the parts washer that you had specifically for cleaning aluminum car parts you would have a quick and reliable outcome. The acetone cleaned as good as the starting fluid I used, you just didn't have the pressure behind the fluid. Most people just have one parts washer but it would be good to have something especially set up for special purpose cleaning. I would use a good ventilation hood for some of these projects.
Please try what i use on anything aluminum. 1st, Use Easy Off oven cleaner first step. (No other brand) Then use NAPPA Auto Parts Aluma Brite on the second step. It'll be just like new again!
I kinda like the Simple Green test you done . Just for the fact that it is a milder,less poisonous solution.
No matter what cleaner is used, I myself have had the best luck or results most of the time using a stainless steel wire brush ,. But of course you would would only want to use it for cast finished parts,. I definitely wouldn't recommend it for a polished finished surface, unless of course the finish doesn't matter and. The main objective is just to clean the parts.
The stainless steel brush scrubs the the contaminates out, as opposed to a regular steel brush seems to scrub them in. If that makes any sense.
Tim from Wisconsin.
Your welcome,. As about the subject of clear coating an aluminum intake manifold. I never seem to have very much luck with it it lasting very long for me. Instead if I have parts that I want to keep looking aluminum color,. I like to just paint them with the aluminum color Rust-Oleum Bar B que grill paint. I prefer the original satin one,. The Rust-Oleum "ULTRA"
grill paint doesn't look as good in my opinion.
I would have started on the bottom side till figuring out what works and I would have begun by soaking it in the simple green with a good sized brush with the soak solution then rinse with scrubbing and I’ve always heard glass beading is what you do to intakes
It’s a garbage intake so it didn’t matter where I started. It was going to end up in the scrap! Soaking for sure is not advised on a material as porous as aluminum.
Pretty much all those 'cleaners' work well, but what about all the small corners and angles you can't get the wire/plastic brushes into? I've used 'Oven Cleaner' or BB Q grill cleaner and they do a good job and you can keep re-applying it until the can is empty because it's so cheap. Let it soak in all day and then pressure wash it. I powder coated a few in my oven. For the most part it filled in the rough casting surface and I can clean it in minutes with some Windex, but that's just me. I've soaked them in Zep too. It cleans them inside and out.
Oven cleaner always gets mentioned but if you look at the instructions it specifically says to NOT use on aluminum. It etches and dissolves the aluminum.
@@MuscleCarSolutions It doesn't seem to have harmed the ones I've done, but I power washed and powder coated them after.
Try powder coat in a satin or flat after the simple green and acetone fix. Thanks for the tests. Ronnie.
Well sir, what works for me is a fresh bag of silica sand for blasting. I use new because after awhile it becomes powdered and cleaning takes longer. Then I use a tap for all threaded holes and blow out all debris. After a thorough blowdown with hi pressure air, I hose it down with WD40 and damp dry.
That’s interesting. WD40 would have been the last thing I would have used. Maybe I’ll give that a try sometime and see how it soaks into the aluminum.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I hope it helps. Been using it for many years on all cast aluminum, Intakes, pump housings, alternator frames etc…it minimizes oxidation. I run a (alum.)6-pack intake and spray a light coat on once every size months…no more ox. 👍
I’ve seen the old guys use kerosene on it and it looks rather awful. I guess if it keeps the crud away, it’s probably worth it.
@@MuscleCarSolutions kerosene, wow…I guess if it works. Yeah, I imagine it looks awful!
Let me tell you a truck driver secret ( Costic soda ) mix 1 and a half cups to two gallons of water spray it on let it sit for about a minute or two then wash off with plenty of water wear eye protection and don't spray on pain it will take it off
What did you do tonight? I watched some chap clean an intake manifold with different types of cleaner and tools! LOL
I did all the dirty work so you don’t have to! 😂
Thanks, Thanks, Thanks...And yes, Dawn does work well but s you said, it does NOT remove some stains. and it does need to be washed/wiped off after use.
Always pour acids into the water, never pour water into acids. The acids can actually flash boil the water as you are adding water to acid. FYI
I like Simple Green, and Awesome brand cleaner. Blasting with glass beads, plastic media, or walnut shells all work. It can be a pain to get the glass beads out of the bolt holes!!
I wonder how some pressure washing with some degreaser would have gone. Also maybe some mag wheel cleaner.
Someone also made the power wash suggestion and it’s a good one. I’ll have to give it a go sometime. The wheel cleaner I’m not too sure on.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah with a removed intake pressure wash saves some elbow grease. A wheel would leave a shadow in the texture of the rough cast. It would work great on machined surfaces though.
Vapor blasting. Will look good as new but probably cost you almost as much as new.
Sams club has a gallon jug of commercial kitchen degreaser that is the best I’ve used yet! I haven’t tried it on a aluminum intake but it I’ll strip grease of everything else with no scrubbing.
Awesome demo! I would have lost this bet, simple Green wow! wouldn't have seen that coming.
It’s been my go to for quite a while for intakes. Just can’t let it sit on it for long. Works well! Looks awesome!
Best thing I have found for aluminum is super clean straight out the jug and a toothbrush
Brass is softer and less likely to scratch the piece.😊
Great video. The factor of safe to use certainly weighs in, but does not change #1
Yeah I took some extra precautions handling that stuff. Not sure if it was heard well on the video but I always had the fab running in case it created fumes. It would have to be pretty perfect for me to want to use it with any frequency. But that also might just be my ignorance in how to handle it.
We Vapor Hone them, always looks like new, then clear powder coat. On new manifolds, we coat them any color under the rainbow and clear.
I was gonna say some hot water and some dawn, dip the whole thing in a bucket if you can and let it soak. I'd say you almost have to use a pressure washer after giving it a good scrub down then wash it off. Probably wouldn't get heavy stains off though I wouldn't think. I've only done smaller parts like that and entire engine bays.
Acetone I try on stubborn stains sometimes, but first.... mineral spirits. Most staining is from gasoline, and spirits lift out varnishes well - oil or gas.
I have used a sand blaster works very good, just turn the air pressure down for aluminum = 75 - 80 lbs. Tape up any surfaces that you dont want blssted.
I have also used good automotive clear not rattle can clear with good results.
I just stick them into my Acme time portal. Gets it clean and removes scratches too.🤓
How I like to clean my intakes is to use a 1/2 cup of borax (washing powder) mixed with warm water then I add dawn diswashing liquid (blue). The muriatic acid works great on steel and iron but not great for aluminum. I also use a parts washing brush and a smaller brush. ButI let it soak for awhile. Not a fan of acetone because it is carcinogenic
I used different brands of clear, on painted valve covers in the past and there was a yellowing, i havent used 2k clear but reviews i saw on youtube was once you insert the top button in bottom of can to activate hardener its very close to a real clear coat job, seems to spray very well and doesnt yellow, i dont know if it holds up to heat.
I’m sure there has to be a solution. I just haven’t done like you have and actually tried them. I’m sure there has to be a solution to the problem!
sir this was a great video,,, glad to see someone did a vid on this ,,, it was very well edited and you spoke very well, i thank you ,,,, Larry M
Glad you enjoyed it!
@Muscle Car Solutions some of these guys don't get it. You did a test with basic cleaners,,which you did a great job,,now if we had a bunch of money, then we would buy a brand new one,,but for the average person,,this was a great video,,thanks again
I clean car rims, you could try wheel cleaner we use Meguiars Wheel Brightener...do not let it dwell too long out of direct sun, as it can stain. I take raw cast aluminium and then polish it to a fine shine.Thank you for your testing.
For some folks that might be the ticket. I’m sure it brings out the brightness using a polish/cleaner. On my stuff I usually want it back to that as cast looking finish like it came from the factory with. Not shiny. Just that nice dull aluminum finish.
When you do comparison tests, you should always have a control (like clean water} just demonstrate that its the product removing the stain and not just the liquidity of the substance you are using.
Alliuminum bright from napa works great
SOS Pads and warm/hot water. Cheap and easy, I use it on rims and the polished swing arm of my KX250.
On polished parts I can see that as an option, but a porous intake probably won’t get in to break up the oil/grease/dirt/fuel deposits.
Hey, if you really want to make the problem go away - send it to me! I could really use one for my autocrosser build lol. But seriously now the best I have seen is hydroblasting and the penultimate is dry ice blasting (who can afford one of those rigs in their home workshop though apart from Rebuild Rescue)
Try Off Oven Cleaner, I use it to clean all my truck parts. Beautiful results. Even on heavy oil and soil 😊
@@remijiomendez1698 there’s a reason why the instructions say not to use it on aluminum. I’ve seen results that are less than ideal. Turns the color black.
I do appreciate the info and will use your suggestions. Thank you
I ALWAYS paint my manifolds. Paint protects what's under it. Unfortunately I now have a second hand intake that was not painted. I'm just going to wire brush the heck out of it so it will accept Hunter Green.
I think that manifold just had dirt on it. Not Oxidized like an old intake. I tried all of your cleaners and did nothing on mine. Also when you add water to bleach and acid add the water first. If you ever splash it you want the weak mixture to hit your skin. I washed concrete walls and flat work for years with no protection and learned this way. Never wore protection on hands or eyes and was fine. Also cleaned tile floors with a sponge, no gloves just a 5 gallon bucket and bare hands since the early 70s and never a problem with the Acid. Only burns if I had cuts on my hands. They healed faster too.
Aluminum oxidization is quite a bit different than grease, oil and dirt contamination. Nothing is going to fix that without some serious work.
CLR and a toothbrush does wonders, also.
I just tried aluminum brightner. Worked pretty good. Still requires a rag on some spots
Seems to be the general misunderstanding with this video. Wasn’t looking to polish or brighten the intake. Just clean and return back to the as cast finish.
@@MuscleCarSolutions i had some dirt lines on a manifold that didnt fit in the ultrasonic cleaner all the way and it took it right off. It does make it brighter, but the point i was making is that it does clean. Its just a spray on and spray off deal too. Just had two little spots that required scrubbing. You can probably use that suff right on the engine safely for regular maintnance too.
Have you used Bleche-Wite before on Al intakes? Try it next time works probably better than all of them except the acetone.
It quite literally says do not use on aluminum. 😂 No I haven’t used it or will I ever.
@@MuscleCarSolutions It works really good. Yes it says that. I use it in small amounts and completely rinse it on my intakes.
Thanks for posting, very informative. 👍
Thank you! Glad it was useful!
Have you tried hydrochloric acid... battery acid?
@@laurensiemens1436 I’m no chemist but I thought muriatic acid is the same and hydrochloric acid. But to answer the question, no. Only the muriatic that I used in this video. The results were rather poor.
I’d like to see power purple cleaner used. Thanks
Dollar store oven cleaner first then Coke a Cola-Citric acid-Blue Magic mix. Apply with 000000 steel wool.
One big issue is the concentration of the cleaner. I used a purple degreaser from Walmart that was about $12 for 2.5 gallons and once I started using a higher concentration, it changed things. Another is temp and pressure. Check out the professional "dish washer" type cleaner where it uses hot pressurized cleaner that spins around the parts.
Any harsh brush is going to dig into the metal and change it. Stiff nylon after a long soaking is the key.
There is a non-yellow clear from a can, Eastwood is one of the places that sells it, but it'll always be different from new. Media blasting AFTER cleaning is the way to get back to newish. The size and hardness of the media is a big deal.
I love these diy videos and this one is awesome. But Just mask the machine surface with gorilla tape and spend $20 for a shop to bead blast it. Use brake kleen to remove tape residue. If you clean it yourself you’re paying half that in chemicals + your time. 90% of the people that scrub them don’t finish anyways because it’s tedious and sucks. But hey if you have a lot of time and patience knock yourself out. Or you can buy the HF sand blaster kit a buy glass and you’ll be able to do much more things too. Just my experience with it
You had me at the safety glasses
It would have been nice to include a couple dedicated aluminum cleaners as well.
@@TheWanderingGeezer I’d have to go back and watch this video again but I’m 100% sure I said why I tested the products included in this video.
I take mine to a machine shop that has a bead blaster, looks better than new
These tips are probably better as far as getting along with the wife, I ran an intake through the dishwasher! Worked great, wife wasn’t too happy though. True story!