Thanks for the enlightenment. I'm currently fumbling my way through the same task with some very stubborn and corroded components. Even though I'm roughly on the right track this video was a great help. Cheers. Mr Foreman.
Nice job as always Phil - Now, just a tip I learned about replacing UJ crosses many years ago in my first job, which you may, or may not like to use. When you've taken the old one out, grind a little off the outside of a cup so it easily goes inside. This is a spacer to press the new ones in using the vice. Cut a short piece of tube that just fits over the cups. Using this to allow the centre of the cross to be pressed into, it is easy to press one side in while holding the cross to prevent the rollers coming out. Press the cup through until it is sticking out on the inside i.e. too far. Fit the circlip to this cup. This way you can slide the cross slightly out, so holding the rollers in both cups as you press the other one in. The ground cup is just a spacer to push it home, but perfect to press flat onto the new cup. Once it is fully home you can of course fit the other circlip. Also if the yoke has become slightly twisted, so making the circlip difficult to locate in the groove, you can tap the yoke out to get it fully home. I did many PTO crosses in my 4 years at that job, and although I've rarely needed to replace one since, not for years now I've always valued learning that.
Good work Man.. i am sure the finished product will give you satisfaction in a well done overhaul. It will make a big difference for sure. Was nice to get to see you a bit in the video also. Very interesting series.
Thanks Colin, it's all done and driving again now but it might take a few days to edit the film. I need to take a final bit of film when it's actually light!
Dear steam, I have just done this job. Its way easier just to grind a groove for your chisel, onto the face of the inner bearing race, and drift the race and seal land off together, thus saving the original seal land if its reusable. I clamped it in a vice, ground a good groove in the inner bearing ring/race at 6 oclock and 12 oclock, plenty of blowlamp on the movable bits, and 5 or 6 good wacko smackos each side and they come off together, with no risk of cutting the shaft. Your chucking the old bearing anyways (if) and you can use the original land rover seal land, as its turned up way better than the new (rough as a badger) britpart crud. Cheers.
Thanks for the great video. Is the middle metal cylinder (between the retainer collar and distance piece) the inner race for the half shaft bearing, and if so does this come with a replacement bearing? I can't find that piece listed anywhere (LR parts manual, roversnorth, etc). Thanks in advance!
Thanks Phil. Great video and really helping as I overhaul my swivels. A quick question; I'm fitting new half shaft bearings into the swivels, is there a right / wrong way to fit these? My assumption is that the retaining collar should face out?
Thanks, glad it helps. If I remember rightly, the halfshaft bearings are a roller and the cage has a lip only on one side. You need to be able to install the half shafts with the swivel ball fitted to the axle case, so the lip would have to face towards the diff.
@@steamwally Thanks Phil - you are right re the lip and that's what I'd assumed was correct but because the original bearings were caged from both sides none of the docs cover it as it wasn't a problem. Keep up the great work - making restoring my 73 109 so much easier.
Nice going, Phill. I was taught to use an appropriately sized socket and a vice to press in the bearing cups. Is this other workshop your Fortress of Solitude, out in the woods? :-)
I have used that method in the past, works very well. I wouldn't fit them with a hardened steel hammer, but with the copper mallet it's usually OK. Certainly quicker anyway.. Everyone should have a workshop in the woods....
It's quite sturdy, but isn't there always room for improvement!? Incidentally, that vice came from the WW2 ammunition store, the site my workshop is on was one of the tank bases which played a key role in the lead up to D day. The ammo store would be my workshop if it wasn't full of asbestos!
I assume the workshop is your place of work, the home workshop appearing at the end of the video..? Just out of interest, what is your day job..? Cheers, David.
Thanks for the enlightenment. I'm currently fumbling my way through the same task with some very stubborn and corroded components. Even though I'm roughly on the right track this video was a great help. Cheers. Mr Foreman.
You're welcome - not one of the fun jobs is it, though thankfully not one you should have to do too often..
Thanks for the great videos. Really appreciate the effort. You have helped me with my project in a big way.
Thanks for sharing this, I have a rusty bearing and pitted collar, this has given me the confidence to tackle the job.Blessings
Nice job as always Phil - Now, just a tip I learned about replacing UJ crosses many years ago in my first job, which you may, or may not like to use.
When you've taken the old one out, grind a little off the outside of a cup so it easily goes inside. This is a spacer to press the new ones in using the vice. Cut a short piece of tube that just fits over the cups. Using this to allow the centre of the cross to be pressed into, it is easy to press one side in while holding the cross to prevent the rollers coming out. Press the cup through until it is sticking out on the inside i.e. too far. Fit the circlip to this cup. This way you can slide the cross slightly out, so holding the rollers in both cups as you press the other one in. The ground cup is just a spacer to push it home, but perfect to press flat onto the new cup. Once it is fully home you can of course fit the other circlip. Also if the yoke has become slightly twisted, so making the circlip difficult to locate in the groove, you can tap the yoke out to get it fully home.
I did many PTO crosses in my 4 years at that job, and although I've rarely needed to replace one since, not for years now I've always valued learning that.
Thanks Malc, good tip. I have a PTO shaft to do shortly so I'll give that a go.
Good work Man.. i am sure the finished product will give you satisfaction in a well done overhaul. It will make a big difference for sure. Was nice to get to see you a bit in the video also. Very interesting series.
Thanks, glad the videos have been of interest. I'm not that photogenic, not often do I make an appearance!
Looks really good. Very nice job!
Thanks!
nice clean fix, always a pleasure.. cheers
Thanks Colin, it's all done and driving again now but it might take a few days to edit the film. I need to take a final bit of film when it's actually light!
Have you got the part number for the half shaft bearing spacers you Chiseled off ? needing those myself 1:44
Interesting video series again. I once learned, that a press fit should never be greased or oiled. It should allways be metal on metal.
Dear steam, I have just done this job. Its way easier just to grind a groove for your chisel, onto the face of the inner bearing race, and drift the race and seal land off together, thus saving the original seal land if its reusable.
I clamped it in a vice, ground a good groove in the inner bearing ring/race at 6 oclock and 12 oclock, plenty of blowlamp on the movable bits, and 5 or 6 good wacko smackos each side and they come off together, with no risk of cutting the shaft. Your chucking the old bearing anyways (if) and you can use the original land rover seal land, as its turned up way better than the new (rough as a badger) britpart crud. Cheers.
Thanks for the great video. Is the middle metal cylinder (between the retainer collar and distance piece) the inner race for the half shaft bearing, and if so does this come with a replacement bearing? I can't find that piece listed anywhere (LR parts manual, roversnorth, etc). Thanks in advance!
I’m having trouble finding that part number also.🤔
Thanks Phil. Great video and really helping as I overhaul my swivels. A quick question; I'm fitting new half shaft bearings into the swivels, is there a right / wrong way to fit these? My assumption is that the retaining collar should face out?
Thanks, glad it helps. If I remember rightly, the halfshaft bearings are a roller and the cage has a lip only on one side. You need to be able to install the half shafts with the swivel ball fitted to the axle case, so the lip would have to face towards the diff.
@@steamwally Thanks Phil - you are right re the lip and that's what I'd assumed was correct but because the original bearings were caged from both sides none of the docs cover it as it wasn't a problem. Keep up the great work - making restoring my 73 109 so much easier.
Keep them coming
I'll try! Editing time is always in short supply however.
Hi, where can i buy new bearing races? I cannot seem to find them?
Regards,
Neil.
Tk you 👍
Do you have the part number for the bearings?
nice job
Nice going, Phill. I was taught to use an appropriately sized socket and a vice to press in the bearing cups.
Is this other workshop your Fortress of Solitude, out in the woods? :-)
I have used that method in the past, works very well. I wouldn't fit them with a hardened steel hammer, but with the copper mallet it's usually OK. Certainly quicker anyway..
Everyone should have a workshop in the woods....
p.s. a standard scaff pole is just the right diameter to drift the new gear on, cheers,,.
Looks like the bench could do with another leg, under the vice...!!
It's quite sturdy, but isn't there always room for improvement!? Incidentally, that vice came from the WW2 ammunition store, the site my workshop is on was one of the tank bases which played a key role in the lead up to D day. The ammo store would be my workshop if it wasn't full of asbestos!
I assume the workshop is your place of work, the home workshop appearing at the end of the video..? Just out of interest, what is your day job..? Cheers, David.
Correct, I work for a private hospital as a mechanical and electrical engineer. Much of my work is with steam boilers and the equipment they serve.
Podrian POR FAVOR TRADUCIR AL ESPAÑOL ...????????