John Rutter .In more recent years some vehicles have done away with circlips and used Staked joints , little bit more involved but can be done reasonably easy if you get a Staking kit ..like yourself done many of various types , Mike has shown the correct way to do the circlip ones easily and fool proof .
I took an early Defender prop slide apart once, never again, there was a plastic coating on the male splines that peeled off as I put it back together... as loose as a clowns pocket. I now fit Toyo (Japanese) joints, most of those have a grease nipple on the outside of one of the cups.. Thanks Mike for a good explanatory video...
G'Day Mike. Back in the day (centuries ago) when I had my VK Commodore (3 speed Auto), they came with a mid mount bearing on the prop shaft. Now I know its not a UJ but its related. The VK had developed a nasty vibration at certain rev's and dopey here thought it was from the UJ's because I had slack in the prop shaft when I gave it a turn by hand. So I drop the front and changed it and then put it back, I then dropped the rear changed that and put that back. I didn't pull the whole prop shaft because each end had a U bolt holding in the UJ's so I didn't have too. I then proceeded to take the VK for its "Test Run" to see if the shaking had gone away. I got to an open bit of road and thought "I'll give it a right old kick in the guts an make sure its all good". As I built up speed it still had a small vibration that came and went. At around 80-90Km/h there was this sudden and very loud "BANG" followed by the sound of screeching and tearing metal as the back of the car came up off the road and dropped back down as something flew threw my roof just behind the front passenger seat head rest! So what had happened. Well that bloody mid mount bearing had given way on the rear portion of the prop shaft and it had fallen onto the road and bitten into the surface and that made it get bent like crazy and it tore a hole in the rear floor area of the back seats. Here I am thinking "WTF had gone threw the roof then" as it looked like all the bits were accounted for as far as I could see at the time. It turned out that it was an end cap from the rear UJ that had parted ways with the rest and decided to bale - here's the funny bit. It wasn't the end cap's that were held in by the U bolts - it was an end that was suppose to be held in by the C clip's. It would appear that dopey here had not properly fitted that C clip. Moral of the story, always check your C Clips are installed correctly and always ALWAYS pull a prop shaft to make sure you inspect ALL of it!
@@BritannicaRestorations Mate it was written off by insurance and because I had done the UJ's they forfeited on the payout saying it was my negligence that caused the accident. I politely informed them it was in fact the mid mount bearing that was at fault, not the UJ's. They countered with "But if you had been a qualified mechanic, you would have seen the problem on the bearing". I knew I wasn't going to win this one no matter what I said after that. Next Car!
This video for me was a really helpful learning experience. Thank you very much. That is what's wrong with working with your co workers. The ones who have knowledge to share won't share it because they are afraid of job security. Once in a while you will get a guy who is comfortable enough to share knowledge with others. Thanks.👍🇺🇸
Another masterclass from you Mike. Better make sure my phones fully charged when I start my rebuild of the 90. So many tops tips and easy explanation of 'how to' on so many things.
Thanks for the valuable info. It looks such an easy job but so many people do it wrong, even mechanics... I once saw one drop one of those joints, pick up the needles he could find and continue on with the job like nothing had happened! 😰
...I always put a little extra grease into the cups before assembling them....had a needle roller move once and didn't notice till it cracked out of the side of the bucket.... :)
These are great fun in the desert with 40degc and sand, sand and more sand. Tech tip do it in the night, if you have a good light and carry a good brand G clamp in your T/box, very handy. Looks like you have done a few Mike ?
Hi Mike very well done as always very great help many thanks Eliot ps keep up the good work and keep safe my 110 recovery has done first job today very happy
hi mike, nice video,and we all love this job-lol- ,-slider: just mark the ends (grinder) and they will come back together happily. because of mix dirt-grease in the splines they start to worn and then the propshaft gets useles and you will have to buy probably another china spare part.
Great video, I was never sure about those plastic bits in the joint! I would be farting around, should they be in or should I take em out. 🤣. I'd have a tight joint, so I'd take em out, then the joint was sloppy and I'd put em back in again. Wouldn't have thought of that hammer trick. Thanks again!
I have never seen that plastic cap before. The uj you have looks like what is listed as heavy duty. It has metal seals not black rubber ones, maybe the cap is only on those? Ordering the GKN type from paddocks, they come in a silver box but it also has the hardy Spicer logo on it. Everything seems to be mixed up and joint owned.
I recall quite a few years ago sitting watching passing traffic at a X roads in Hue Viet Nam, an ancient Renault 4x4 bus entered the jct, prop shaft fell on road! Bus stopped 2 young lads got out of bus, gathered prop shaft up. Ran back to bus, crawling under refitted shaft, they into bus it drove off!
Was in China years ago and the bus stopped quite rapidly - everybody off the bus and looking in the engine bay - being a tad taller I peered over the babbling crowd, noticed the end of the crank had snapped off, and made a run for the next bus!
When removing and installing the front prop shaft on RRC 88 LT230TF case, why aren't the bolts on the front diff flange installed from front to back to keep them captive like on the transfer output flange & the nuts on the prop shaft side ? you cant get a ring spanner onto the nuts, only an open ender because the bolts are a couple of threads too long & the dirt deflector is in the way, this sucks when trying to torque them, as you have to tighten the bolt & the nut wants to turn ?
In the last 20 years people talking to themselves has changed meaning. Now it is the busiest people that do it, or they are youtubers, or mentoring someone, or having a video conference or.... It is not rare anymore, at all, i meet someone at least every week that talks to themselves in public, and this is a small quiet town not a metropolis.
hello mike I am starting up my 2.5 na engine but I am not getting diesel through the injection pump. the boost pump is ok and the selenoid on the injection pump is also ok, but no diesel to the injectors. the pump has not been removed from the engine and always starts perfectly, I have bled everything up to the pump. what could this be and are there any other options i can do, greetings from Belgium Maes didier
I had an engine like that in one of my first videos! After a lot of messing about, I stripped the pump and found the internal drive shaft had snapped. Turns out it is quite common. The cost of rebuilding the pump (by a pump specialist) was more than the engine was worth - I think I was quoted C$2300! Fortunately a TH-camr in the US sent me a known used pump and the job was fixed.
Nice one mike it's so easy these modern mechanical tech now nothing it's got to go to a specialist ware taught to be proper mechanic with out snap on tools just 1 hammer few screw drivers and adjustable spanner and cardboard box jim j
Hi Mike. I was brought up with the old Ford wagons and cars. Did you ever work on one of those that had torque tubes and double shackle spring hangers? the U/Js where in the tube and they hardly ever went wrong because they never needed greasing. Great video Mike, why not bolt your vice onto the front of your bench and use it in a vertical way, ( just joking Mike ) LOL. Keep em coming. Best wishes from Yorkshire, Rob.
@@BritannicaRestorations Thats what I need now Mike, the old arturirus has got a grip of my hands so UJs are a real chalenge now. Keep the videos coming Mike. They are my only connection with the real world that I once knew during this lock-down time. Many thanks, Yorkshire Rob.
I'm all tumbs with those things, circlips jumping to oblivion needle rollers falling out or folding up inside the cup etc most frustrating. Don't like the job!!
Some circlips have tapered holes to help with removal. The amount ive changed where they've been fitted the wrong way from the factory. Not landy parts in particular but in lots of components with circlips.
I have a Gkn front prop, one of the circlips is turning after a few miles is there a way to stop the cup moving or do I need to return it? Gkn now made in India.
The circlip is not loose but the bearing cup is turning within the yoke. As though the yoke is too big for the cup? I have tried to punch some dots on to the yoke but hasn’t worked.
Thanks Mike... I was going to ask you about doing UV joint... I agree about china, when we go on ebay check the supplier isnt from china before you buy... Well said..GN
I remember my first UJ, the idiot kept driving after the needles had given way. The body of the UJ was ground down and the flange had been damaged too. All preventable if they’d of greased the joint!
Unfortunately that’s very true. I’m in the market for my first defender. I know 300TDIs pretty well but really looking for a TD5. Just fancy something a little newer and less agricultural.
Always been one of my least favorite jobs, just hate circlips with a passion, There always Rusty Seized and Inaccessible 99.9% of the time. Then they always like to play hide and seek pinging off to the black hole of the garage never to be found again.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 You hate circlips with a "passion", very true these things can get deep down to the last nerve but Mr Mike made it look like it's the simplest job theres
My old Chief Engineer would give you a belt round lug if he caught you greasing anything without first cleaning the nipple and the gun end. and if anyone painted over a grease nipple or valve spindle god help em!! "paint is for protection, not decoration" he would shout. I carried this on myself with my trainees.
When I was an apprentice we met with lads from the ship yards - a lot of the first years had to saw bolts down to 2 threads past the nut as excessive painted thread was a bugger to get the nuts off
Back in the 1960's, this was always the apprentices job! 🤔😆😆 I've done hundreds of the blighters! Nothing has changed! 👌👍
So true!
John Rutter .In more recent years some vehicles have done away with circlips and used Staked joints , little bit more involved but can be done reasonably easy if you get a Staking kit ..like yourself done many of various types , Mike has shown the correct way to do the circlip ones easily and fool proof .
I seem to recall the old fords were like this - a guy in Middlesborough had a set up to machine the yokes and fit circlips
"If it's eyes are too close together, doesn't mean it's an idiot."
We all knew exactly what you meant!
Lol!
Absolutely love this account. Great help. Appreciate all the time and effort put into these!
Glad you enjoy it!
I took an early Defender prop slide apart once, never again, there was a plastic coating on the male splines that peeled off as I put it back together... as loose as a clowns pocket.
I now fit Toyo (Japanese) joints, most of those have a grease nipple on the outside of one of the cups..
Thanks Mike for a good explanatory video...
The slider felt good and I just greased it
I've been working on landies for over 30 years and still hate doing uni's. Good video
If the casting was parallel it would help! Lol!
@@BritannicaRestorations damn right!
Great stuff - You are a maestro and make all things Land Rove look easy !
Thanks 👍
Get into the groove like Madonna😂 Very helpful video
G'Day Mike.
Back in the day (centuries ago) when I had my VK Commodore (3 speed Auto), they came with a mid mount bearing on the prop shaft. Now I know its not a UJ but its related. The VK had developed a nasty vibration at certain rev's and dopey here thought it was from the UJ's because I had slack in the prop shaft when I gave it a turn by hand. So I drop the front and changed it and then put it back, I then dropped the rear changed that and put that back. I didn't pull the whole prop shaft because each end had a U bolt holding in the UJ's so I didn't have too. I then proceeded to take the VK for its "Test Run" to see if the shaking had gone away. I got to an open bit of road and thought "I'll give it a right old kick in the guts an make sure its all good".
As I built up speed it still had a small vibration that came and went. At around 80-90Km/h there was this sudden and very loud "BANG" followed by the sound of screeching and tearing metal as the back of the car came up off the road and dropped back down as something flew threw my roof just behind the front passenger seat head rest!
So what had happened. Well that bloody mid mount bearing had given way on the rear portion of the prop shaft and it had fallen onto the road and bitten into the surface and that made it get bent like crazy and it tore a hole in the rear floor area of the back seats. Here I am thinking "WTF had gone threw the roof then" as it looked like all the bits were accounted for as far as I could see at the time. It turned out that it was an end cap from the rear UJ that had parted ways with the rest and decided to bale - here's the funny bit. It wasn't the end cap's that were held in by the U bolts - it was an end that was suppose to be held in by the C clip's. It would appear that dopey here had not properly fitted that C clip.
Moral of the story, always check your C Clips are installed correctly and always ALWAYS pull a prop shaft to make sure you inspect ALL of it!
That sounded expensive!
@@BritannicaRestorations Mate it was written off by insurance and because I had done the UJ's they forfeited on the payout saying it was my negligence that caused the accident. I politely informed them it was in fact the mid mount bearing that was at fault, not the UJ's. They countered with "But if you had been a qualified mechanic, you would have seen the problem on the bearing". I knew I wasn't going to win this one no matter what I said after that. Next Car!
Insurance eh?
Hi mike 👋 thanks again 👍 on the next video 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
No problem 👍
Thanks for showing us this!
No problem!
This video for me was a really helpful learning experience. Thank you very much. That is what's wrong with working with your co workers. The ones who have knowledge to share won't share it because they are afraid of job security. Once in a while you will get a guy who is comfortable enough to share knowledge with others. Thanks.👍🇺🇸
Great to hear!
never done one of those for years nice to get reminded how to do it lol i had actually forgot
Me too! Must have been 4 years since I last did one!
10:30 good Reflex!, and good tips to allround!
Hei Mike, you are a blessing to many of us here.
Thank you Farouk
Another masterclass from you Mike. Better make sure my phones fully charged when I start my rebuild of the 90. So many tops tips and easy explanation of 'how to' on so many things.
If I can make jobs easy for you, then it is all worth it!
Hoping to take the defender to Eastern Europe this summer?🤨? So I am filling my head with all your advice Mike 😉 thanks again for a great vlog!
Have fun!
Thanks for the valuable info. It looks such an easy job but so many people do it wrong, even mechanics... I once saw one drop one of those joints, pick up the needles he could find and continue on with the job like nothing had happened! 😰
Thanks for sharing
...I always put a little extra grease into the cups before assembling them....had a needle roller move once and didn't notice till it cracked out of the side of the bucket.... :)
We have all been there Paul!
These are great fun in the desert with 40degc and sand, sand and more sand. Tech tip do it in the night, if you have a good light and carry a good brand G clamp in your T/box, very handy. Looks like you have done a few Mike ?
Lol! Yes on or two!
Hi Mike very well done as always very great help many thanks Eliot ps keep up the good work and keep safe my 110 recovery has done first job today very happy
Thanks, you too!
Great Mike! Really great! Making easy which can turn complicated sometimes. I admire you!
Glad you liked it!
hi mike, nice video,and we all love this job-lol- ,-slider: just mark the ends (grinder) and they will come back together happily. because of mix dirt-grease in the splines they start to worn and then the propshaft gets useles and you will have to buy probably another china spare part.
If the splines were bad it would be a new shaft - I can get the splines replaced here but it costs a fortune!
Excellent vidéo Thanks to you for sharing all those précious details and also your communicable enthusiasm full of joy !!!!
Thank you very much!
Excellent video thanks
Very welcome
great video. we used gkn/hardy spicer propshafts at AEC. where i used to work building trucks. all greased before road test !!
Great tip!
i fitted flush mount grease zerks to all the UJ's on my 110 perentie lot easier to grease them now with the adaptor for them on the grease gun
Great video, I was never sure about those plastic bits in the joint! I would be farting around, should they be in or should I take em out. 🤣. I'd have a tight joint, so I'd take em out, then the joint was sloppy and I'd put em back in again. Wouldn't have thought of that hammer trick. Thanks again!
I was foxed by having 2 in one side and one in the other - I never gave it a second thought as they were stuck in the cap
I had the same issue. I ended up going from blue box to GKN - they fitted straight off. Took no time after that just had to do it twice Grrr!
Bugger the Chinese!!! I couldn't agree more.
Best tutorial by far mike great job
Thanks Greg!
I have never seen that plastic cap before. The uj you have looks like what is listed as heavy duty. It has metal seals not black rubber ones, maybe the cap is only on those? Ordering the GKN type from paddocks, they come in a silver box but it also has the hardy Spicer logo on it. Everything seems to be mixed up and joint owned.
There were rubber seals under the metal
@@BritannicaRestorations yes, I guess that's what make them heavy duty, metal seal covers.
I recall quite a few years ago sitting watching passing traffic at a X roads in Hue Viet Nam, an ancient Renault 4x4 bus entered the jct, prop shaft fell on road! Bus stopped 2 young lads got out of bus, gathered prop shaft up. Ran back to bus, crawling under refitted shaft, they into bus it drove off!
Was in China years ago and the bus stopped quite rapidly - everybody off the bus and looking in the engine bay - being a tad taller I peered over the babbling crowd, noticed the end of the crank had snapped off, and made a run for the next bus!
Yup, that happened to me also, stopped and the prop shaft fell of rolled into the gutter, tingle tingle thinking what the heck was that? Lol.
I was on another Chinese bus - was sat at the back and the bugger caught fire!
Made a sharp exit ( to get some petrol! Lol!)
Britannica Restorations Ltd l was following a bus in Coventry and the contents of the gearbox suddenly appeared from underneath. Cogs everywhere 😂
When removing and installing the front prop shaft on RRC 88 LT230TF case, why aren't the bolts on the front diff flange installed from front to back to keep them captive like on the transfer output flange & the nuts on the prop shaft side ? you cant get a ring spanner onto the nuts, only an open ender because the bolts are a couple of threads too long & the dirt deflector is in the way, this sucks when trying to torque them, as you have to tighten the bolt & the nut wants to turn ?
In the last 20 years people talking to themselves has changed meaning. Now it is the busiest people that do it, or they are youtubers, or mentoring someone, or having a video conference or.... It is not rare anymore, at all, i meet someone at least every week that talks to themselves in public, and this is a small quiet town not a metropolis.
another great video
Glad you enjoyed it
hello mike
I am starting up my 2.5 na engine but I am not getting diesel through the injection pump.
the boost pump is ok and the selenoid on the injection pump is also ok, but no diesel to the injectors. the pump has not been removed from the engine and always starts perfectly, I have bled everything up to the pump. what could this be and are there any other options i can do,
greetings from Belgium
Maes didier
I had an engine like that in one of my first videos!
After a lot of messing about, I stripped the pump and found the internal drive shaft had snapped.
Turns out it is quite common.
The cost of rebuilding the pump (by a pump specialist) was more than the engine was worth - I think I was quoted C$2300!
Fortunately a TH-camr in the US sent me a known used pump and the job was fixed.
Thanks mike for your Quick answer
Perhaps you should fit the UJs 45deg to each other in stead of nicely in line it'll reduce vibration. UJs aren't CV Joints.
Great tips thanks Mike !
Any time!
Nice one mike it's so easy these modern mechanical tech now nothing it's got to go to a specialist ware taught to be proper mechanic with out snap on tools just 1 hammer few screw drivers and adjustable spanner and cardboard box jim j
No nonsense mechanics!
Where do you get it at? I need one for my 1998 Land Rover discovery.
Hi Mike. I was brought up with the old Ford wagons and cars. Did you ever work on one of those that had torque tubes and double shackle spring hangers? the U/Js where in the tube and they hardly ever went wrong because they never needed greasing. Great video Mike, why not bolt your vice onto the front of your bench and use it in a vertical way, ( just joking Mike ) LOL. Keep em coming. Best wishes from Yorkshire, Rob.
If I were to do a lot of UJ's, Rob I would make a vice jaw with a pin on it - quite simple!
@@BritannicaRestorations Thats what I need now Mike, the old arturirus has got a grip of my hands so UJs are a real chalenge now. Keep the videos coming Mike. They are my only connection with the real world that I once knew during this lock-down time. Many thanks, Yorkshire Rob.
So, you done a couple of those then? Gee you made that look easy!
It is easy when you know how!
I'm all tumbs with those things, circlips jumping to oblivion needle rollers falling out or folding up inside the cup etc most frustrating. Don't like the job!!
Cheap circlip pliers are a pain
which was the first video for taking them apart?
I always get the TVC1000010GKN, they have the hd covers over the seals.
Some circlips have tapered holes to help with removal. The amount ive changed where they've been fitted the wrong way from the factory. Not landy parts in particular but in lots of components with circlips.
Watch that Indian steel!
you should see the amount of genuine parts coming out of India now
I have a Gkn front prop, one of the circlips is turning after a few miles is there a way to stop the cup moving or do I need to return it? Gkn now made in India.
Loads of LR genuine parts are made in India now - is the circlip really lose?
The circlip is not loose but the bearing cup is turning within the yoke. As though the yoke is too big for the cup? I have tried to punch some dots on to the yoke but hasn’t worked.
Bad yoke - I would return it
Hi Mike do you remember those hellish stake joint kits from the eighties .
YES! I just did a reply below about those on Fords - a guy in Middleborough had a set up to put circlips in
For an even better experience, replace the socket with a piece of round bar with a magnet recessed into the end. Then you don’t need three hands 😋
I do not do many UJ's but I was thinking of making a vice jaw with a bit or round bar welded to it
I have never seen those plastic cap bit on a Spicer joint.
You have to look for them! Usually stuck in the cap
Learnt the hard way with them bas#$@d things good video 📹
Thanks Jason!
If you do separate the plunging joint it will have two arrows to show you how to refit them to preserve the alignment
bryan latimer-davies That shaft doesn’t have arrows. But it does have a blank spline, so it can only go back together one way.
Thanks
No problem
Thanks Mike... I was going to ask you about doing UV joint... I agree about china, when we go on ebay check the supplier isnt from china before you buy... Well said..GN
Problem is we never really know where thing are made now
Need a new universal joint
Commentators curse kicked in there then 😂 “just hold it against the vice and it won’t drop off 🤦♂️
lol!
I remember my first UJ, the idiot kept driving after the needles had given way. The body of the UJ was ground down and the flange had been damaged too. All preventable if they’d of greased the joint!
most are grease for life nowadays as a cars expected life is 7 years
Unfortunately that’s very true. I’m in the market for my first defender. I know 300TDIs pretty well but really looking for a TD5. Just fancy something a little newer and less agricultural.
Always been one of my least favorite jobs, just hate circlips with a passion, There always Rusty Seized and Inaccessible 99.9% of the time. Then they always like to play hide and seek pinging off to the black hole of the garage never to be found again.
I have had them so bad I have had to burn out the UJ!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 You hate circlips with a "passion", very true these things can get deep down to the last nerve but Mr Mike made it look like it's the simplest job theres
I don't see the 45° phasing on that front shaft.
Not on the early vehicles
@@BritannicaRestorations what year started with the phasing?
My old Chief Engineer would give you a belt round lug if he caught you greasing anything without first cleaning the nipple and the gun end. and if anyone painted over a grease nipple or valve spindle god help em!! "paint is for protection, not decoration" he would shout. I carried this on myself with my trainees.
When I was an apprentice we met with lads from the ship yards - a lot of the first years had to saw bolts down to 2 threads past the nut as excessive painted thread was a bugger to get the nuts off
@@BritannicaRestorations Yes. That was good working practice. Rust is a never ending fight on ships and offshore oil rigs.
And Land Rovers!
@@BritannicaRestorations Yeh. Had that experience too. lol.
That is why we are all here!
how many people watching this are thinking when did I last grease those props?
How may subscribers now?? lol!