I’m excited for this one guys! I’ve partnered up with GURU Shower System. I wanted to find a system that was affordable and good quality! This whole system WITH leaner drain is less than $600! In Spain they line pools and roofs with this membrane! I’m hyped:)
@@WINNI.Designs I just saw that they you said they do make a pre made foam base. That’s what I’d need. I’ve never done a dry pack. Unless you can do a video Drypack for Dummies. Lol
I always thought the water proofing paper went on the bottom and slightly up the sides first and then the sides. That way what water drainage stays inside and not behind the paper.
He is setting the whole shower in one day. Putting membrane on a freshly packed bed. Would have to let it dry before standing on it. He could literally start his water test and come back in 24-48 hrs and tile
Wouldn't it make more sense to do the pan first and run the wall waterproofing over the flanged floor membrane? Seems like that would be a better way to ensure water doesn't get under the membrane.
Waterproof is waterproof no mater what is layered on top. Doesn't drain like roof tiles so doesn't matter what layer overlaps as long as you have 3 inches of overlap with modified thin set.
Shouldn’t you be doing the floor and pan liner first… and then do the membrane on the walls so the bottom edge has the walls bottom drip edge inside of the pan liner instead of outside of it?
Next time use Go Board by John Mansville. Faster & and a lot easier. Your competitors on TH-cam are being sponsored by JM. Not to mention “MADE IN THE USA”.
Why would you not put the floor membrane first and let the wall membrane over lap the shower floor flange membrane. That would make it more water proof.
Hi Winni. I'm planning to use Guru and looking at their site they have "Guru USA Waterproof Shower Pan SUPER KIT" that I am looking at. My current shower is 1 piece fiberglass and I hate it. Not to mention the bozos didn't put the glass door on correctly, so water seeps through the bottom of the door. Anyway, house is concrete slab. So my questions are: 1. Will I need to build the bottom up like you did or does the waterproof shower pan that's in the kit have the slopes built in? Forgive my ignorance on that, but I'm more of a woodworker. 2. For the pan, I may need to make cuts (assuming I need to leave 6 inches connecting the 3 sides I do cut). I ask because I'm going to extend the shower a little. 3. It doesn't look like you used the pre-fab pan here and just used the same membrane you used on the wall. So if I need to build up the floor, is the pre-fab pan actually needed?
You definitely can. But it's probably because he doesn't want to damage the membrane walking over it and working on the walls. But that's just me guessing. Though.
I need to use a linear drain with end outlet(drain pipe not in the center) Do they make one like that? Would it possible to use infinity linear drain with guru flange?
Why dont put the bottom membrane first and then the walls ? That way there's the shower is seamless and there is no place for water to get between the walls and the bottom ? 🤔
Great system! I have 2 bathrooms to do coming up and I’ll definitely try this out! Do you think using hardie backer or durock instead of the green drywall might make this even more durable long term??
No in tha case you make a soupy slurry of modified thinset and spread as you go right before you pour your mortar base this will make the mortar stick to the concrete
This guy is using the terms "thinset" and "backbutter", but I'm not sure he is using these terms correctly. It appears he is using mastic, and backbutter is applying thinset to the back of a tile.
He mentioned the waterproof drywall (green board). So, “technically”, it does not need more waterproofing. HOWEVER…depends on your idea of “durable”, & the location’s Code/permit requirements! Some areas demand a waterproofing layer over ANY kind of wall board, even cement, before installing the membranes..overkill? Nope. After seeing showers rot the framing, due to failures in corners & angles, Others, don’t; in fact, there apparently are loopholes that allow contractors to install plastic surrounds with zero backer board; pieces just overlap (supposedly), attaching direct to studs 😳 (Our flipper-special has 2 of those very badly done) I need to rip both out, install 2x boards to hold railings, then, I think, using waterproofing onto the most vulnerable framing directly, 1st. Then, put up 1/4” thick cement or magnesium board (no mold), …tho, must check w/City to see if they require 1/2”thick boards. Then waterproof coating, then membrane, then the waterproof layer…tileorstone. Have not decided yet, because biggest issue is ADA ability…may need to swap toilet for shower, to make bigger shower. Just not ready yet. The other bathroom has a tub we will like,y remove, to make that one ADA, too. Just check (anonymously) w/your local permitting office, to see what their rules are. If you do anything that exceeds their minimums, should impress them 😉.
I’m excited for this one guys! I’ve partnered up with GURU Shower System. I wanted to find a system that was affordable and good quality! This whole system WITH leaner drain is less than $600! In Spain they line pools and roofs with this membrane! I’m hyped:)
This system looks awesome and straight forward on install. Great video and teaching job.
@@RSLWoodworking thank you so much! I’m excited for the price of it.
@@WINNI.Designs I just saw that they you said they do make a pre made foam base. That’s what I’d need. I’ve never done a dry pack. Unless you can do a video Drypack for Dummies. Lol
We use the same membrane system in Sweden. We don't use thinset, we use waterproofing glue to set the membrane to the wall. Works like a charm.
What waterproofing glue do you use?
I always thought the water proofing paper went on the bottom and slightly up the sides first and then the sides. That way what water drainage stays inside and not behind the paper.
You’re correct!! I’m sure it will be fine the other way but may as well do it properly for piece of mind.
He is setting the whole shower in one day. Putting membrane on a freshly packed bed. Would have to let it dry before standing on it.
He could literally start his water test and come back in 24-48 hrs and tile
Wouldn't it make more sense to do the pan first and run the wall waterproofing over the flanged floor membrane? Seems like that would be a better way to ensure water doesn't get under the membrane.
Yes
Waterproof is waterproof no mater what is layered on top. Doesn't drain like roof tiles so doesn't matter what layer overlaps as long as you have 3 inches of overlap with modified thin set.
Yesssss longer content. I miss the hour long lives!!
Haha me too!
Why did you do the pan last? Wouldn't it be better to have the walls come down into the pan? Is this the recommended way to install guru?
Yes.
Shouldn’t you be doing the floor and pan liner first… and then do the membrane on the walls so the bottom edge has the walls bottom drip edge inside of the pan liner instead of outside of it?
Next time use Go Board by John Mansville. Faster & and a lot easier. Your competitors on TH-cam are being sponsored by JM. Not to mention “MADE IN THE USA”.
Pre slopped pans means no mud work 😮💨 a lil pricer but a bang for the buck
Dope a full length video
Yay!
How did he do the corner
I think the same all of them .Long time ago what kind you use it .
Why would you not put the floor membrane first and let the wall membrane over lap the shower floor flange membrane. That would make it more water proof.
Would it be better to use that waterproof sealant caulking around the perimeter of the shower pan too?
Hard to tell in video but that clamping ring must be different than a normal clamping ring? It's must almost be sloped ?
Miesha, isn’t the KRBS system you love way faster than this as well as similarly priced?
Full KBRS system is about $1400. This whole system is $550!
@@WINNI.Designs how long it took you to install the full system?
@@maximeturgeon exactly. He could easily offset the cost difference by how much time you save. Mud bed usually needs to set for 48 hours too.
Awesome video love your Content GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR family
Thank you so much
@@WINNI.Designs I can't wait for your next video to drop, God bless
You can also try shower pan, special for this this shower room
What a great system winni for the win
Haha thank you so much!
I like the video and the system, however does the shower floor liner come larger? I have a shower thats 48 x 96 . If not can it be seamed
Hi Winni. I'm planning to use Guru and looking at their site they have "Guru USA Waterproof Shower Pan SUPER KIT" that I am looking at. My current shower is 1 piece fiberglass and I hate it. Not to mention the bozos didn't put the glass door on correctly, so water seeps through the bottom of the door. Anyway, house is concrete slab. So my questions are:
1. Will I need to build the bottom up like you did or does the waterproof shower pan that's in the kit have the slopes built in? Forgive my ignorance on that, but I'm more of a woodworker.
2. For the pan, I may need to make cuts (assuming I need to leave 6 inches connecting the 3 sides I do cut). I ask because I'm going to extend the shower a little.
3. It doesn't look like you used the pre-fab pan here and just used the same membrane you used on the wall. So if I need to build up the floor, is the pre-fab pan actually needed?
Is the drywall paper strong enough to hold the tile on the walls?
Well the sheet membrane holds the tile up. This type of system has been successful for many years
hi
what material you use for the backer board?
Is there a reason you don’t put more sealant between the clamping ring and the sheet membrane? Thanks!
Hey. The sealant goes between the membrane and the white spacer to provide the 100% seal. I show that in the video
How did you handle the overlaps of the corners or the wide wall?
How do you waterproof around the curb?
They don’t have slopes shower pans for those who don’t wanna pack mud?
question why not do the floor membrane first and then overlap the wall membrane on top of the floor membrane? any reasons not to do it?
You definitely can. But it's probably because he doesn't want to damage the membrane walking over it and working on the walls. But that's just me guessing. Though.
Great video! Glad to see there's a cheaper option out there. What did you use for your backer board?
Green board. Moisture resistant drywall.
Green board:)
How is this compared to Kerdi?
Never heard of that brand. It compares to Schluter?
You're not supposed to used modified thinset on your membrane overlaps. You can use it to apply the membrane to the drywall as you did.
What two layers did you put in the shower pan before doing the mud? Does this system not require pea gravel?
I linked a video for mudjob install as a card in the video. But its tar paper and diamond mesh. And yes, no need to gravel:)
what if I want a curbless shower floor?
Would it be better protected if you put the pan in before the wall membrane?
I need to use a linear drain with end outlet(drain pipe not in the center) Do they make one like that? Would it possible to use infinity linear drain with guru flange?
What size bolts?
Why dont put the bottom membrane first and then the walls ? That way there's the shower is seamless and there is no place for water to get between the walls and the bottom ? 🤔
Would they be able to ship to Canada?
www.ibtools.ca
Seriously, that's Thin-set? Isn't it sandy? I would like to use the best and I see that the one you use is quite flexible, isn't it a common Thin-ser?
this looks very similar to schluter system?!
Do you wait for the mindset to dry before installing the membrane?
No, you want it to be fresh to that membrane sticks to it
Is this shower system available to ship to Canada?
www.ibtools.ca
How long has this system been used for showers?
22 year in Europe:) just started here in USA. Same products.
where can you buy this? Their website doesn't have a cart feature or vendor lists.
It’s sold on Tool Locker. The link for it is in the description:)
Same as schluter and laticrete
Great system! I have 2 bathrooms to do coming up and I’ll definitely try this out! Do you think using hardie backer or durock instead of the green drywall might make this even more durable long term??
That’s awesome! No I don’t think so. Once you tile over it, it will be perfect. If there is a leak, neither one would work.
show cost of system
Thanks for not making another TH-cam short 🤪
el orden de montaje No es correcto.... primero se instala el suelo y después las paredes ....un saludo
Support
So if installing over a concrete slab is the tar paper and mesh still needed?
No in tha case you make a soupy slurry of modified thinset and spread as you go right before you pour your mortar base this will make the mortar stick to the concrete
Does Guru pay you money?
Great video, but sorry, drywall does not belong in a shower, don't care what color it is or what is put on top of it.
Yes it does, in Sweden we use it.
It's fine with that membrane over it.
Walls before pan ... rookie mistake!
Back butter is when you thinset the back of a laminant sheet or tile. You can't back butter a wall or floor.
This guy is using the terms "thinset" and "backbutter", but I'm not sure he is using these terms correctly. It appears he is using mastic, and backbutter is applying thinset to the back of a tile.
Would it be a good idea to seal the drywall before putting on the thinset?
I think at the beginning he mentioned it was waterproof drywall?
He mentioned the waterproof drywall (green board). So, “technically”, it does not need more waterproofing.
HOWEVER…depends on your idea of “durable”, & the location’s Code/permit requirements! Some areas demand a waterproofing layer over ANY kind of wall board, even cement, before installing the membranes..overkill?
Nope. After seeing showers rot the framing, due to failures in corners & angles,
Others, don’t; in fact, there apparently are loopholes that allow contractors to install plastic surrounds with zero backer board; pieces just overlap (supposedly), attaching direct to studs 😳 (Our flipper-special has 2 of those very badly done)
I need to rip both out, install 2x boards to hold railings, then, I think, using waterproofing onto the most vulnerable framing directly, 1st.
Then, put up 1/4” thick cement or magnesium board (no mold), …tho, must check w/City to see if they require 1/2”thick boards.
Then waterproof coating, then membrane, then the waterproof layer…tileorstone.
Have not decided yet, because biggest issue is ADA ability…may need to swap toilet for shower, to make bigger shower. Just not ready yet.
The other bathroom has a tub we will like,y remove, to make that one ADA, too.
Just check (anonymously) w/your local permitting office, to see what their rules are. If you do anything that exceeds their minimums, should impress them 😉.