I can't believe I live in Sarasota and didn't know you were here before I bought most of my 48 volt stuff. It was a lot of work installing it myself and figuring out complexities. You guys really earn your money for installations and bring so much value with your experience. Glad I finally connected with you all and can't recommend you enough to people considering upgrading their van system.
Very nice presentation, bottom line, it’s all because of the air conditioner. That 15,000 BTU unit is incredible. Or, go to traditional route and put in a generator.
I'm in Australia so our domestic appliances are 240v not 1110vv but that makes little difference. IMO the only reason to choose 12v or 24v is to maintain the same native voltage of the vehicle in situations where your power draw is basic. Lights, tv, small fridge. If you have any desire to use domestic type equipment such as induction, electric frypans, kettles, toasters, microvwaves, AC etc skip 12 and 24 and go straight to 48v. Its not like it costs more but it does allow a huge amount of potential. Just turning on a kettle requires 160 odd amps at 12v vs 40amps at 48. Even if the cable was free the bigger stuff is just a pain to work with not to mention resistance plays a big part as far as cable lengths go at such low voltages as 12v. When you ditch the 12/24 volt camping style appliances/brands for proper 110v/240v domestic items you get a much larger range to choose from too. Those rpm figures on the alternator are for alternator speed not engine speed. They are geared via pulley size and run faster than engine RPM. They output heaps at engine idle. I'm pretty sure the Nations alternator does have diode protection but you'd use a Balmar APM for the extremely rare occation the BMS load dumps due to an individual cell low/high voltage alarm. 48v alternators also need an external regulater like a Wakespeed or Balmar unit. Long story short, be realistic about what you want to power now and in the future and build accordingly. 48v is infinitely more flexible than 12v
Thank you for this series. Myself and many others are hungry for knowledge about 48v. I’m seriously considering going to 48v for the extra charging capability. From the alternator and from more easily adding a lot more solar panels. With 12v it’s difficult to add a large amount of panels for charging. It’s a shame that with 48v the idle charging is less though.
Hi, I have (1) Ecoflow balcony hybrid solar plant. (2) Delta pro 3.6kWh battery - inverter is connected and charged via (3) Ecoflow Powerstream, when it creates a peak. I have also (4) Victron 150/35 for charging my (5) 12kWh 51,2V 230ah battery with solar panels. This battery is connected to Delta pro via XT60 solar input (1600 W / 11-150 V max. 15 A ) and charges Delta pro. What fuses and where should I put them, to be Delta pro and battery protected ?
Forgive my lack of understanding , however the camera was scanning two, 200ah 24V batteries, while you said that, “with just two 24V batteries in series, we will have a 200ah bank at 48V which is equivalent to a 800ah bank at 12 V”. This was confusing as you didn’t clarify what ah size 24V batteries you were referring to? If you go by what was videoed(two 200ah 24V batteries), you would have a total of 400ah of 24V batteries. But if you were referring to two 100ah 24V batteries which weren’t shown then you would have a 200ah bank of 24V batteries which is what you said?
Yes, a load dump would be very bad! So, in our example system (link below), we use products that have been tested to work together in an intelligent way including Victron Smart lithium batteries with the Lynx Smart BMS that has CAN communication with the Wakespeed alternator regulator so that if the batteries are going to trigger a disconnect the Wakespeed can respond by removing the field drive before that happens. Also, the only "battery switch" in this system is the 500 amp "contactor" inside the Lynx BMS. So, even a manual disconnect of the battery, through that switch would communicate that disconnect to the Wakespeed prior to it actually happening. Beyond that, it's using the right components like wire, circuit protection, etc. www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/48-volt-secondary-alternator-power-system/
Do you have any info on the “bi-directional” version of the 48v alternator and “advanced” version of the Wakespeed500? This bi-directional version is amazing. It can simultaneously charge from the 48v alternator and the 12v alternator at the same time to add even more charge. Maybe this would make up for the less ideling charge with the 48v alternator? Please do a vid on this system. It seems to be the best on the market right now.
I believe that product was discontinued by Wakespeed but I'd have to double check. Have you looked into this Safiery Scotty? safiery.com/product/scotty-3kw-12-48v-canbus-bi-directional-dc-to-dc/
@@VanlifeOutfitters I’m so interested in the bi-directional approach with the 48v 2nd alternator because the ideling charge of the 48v 2nd alternator is so low. We need something to boost those ideling numbers. Why is the 48v so low a charge at idle? Do you know of any workaround this problem?
I went 48v. But I totally disagree that there isn't sufficient net gain going from 12v to 24v. I had a 24v system due to receiving the system free, and it was WELL worth what minute changes that needed to be made, and as far as complexity? I can't honestly even compute in what way it's more "complex". As far as I'm concerned, more IS better when it comes to voltage on electrical systems. I kick myself for going 12v the first two times..what was I thinking.
Thanks for watching. Yes, we labeled those comments about 12v vs. 24v as a "hot take" assuming not everyone would agree. It's also important to remember the context is a Nations, secondary alternator as a primary charging source. Did you read the blog post where we compare the rated current output of a Nation 12v vs. 24v alternator? www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/48-volt-secondary-alternator-power-system/ Also, would love to learn more about your 48v system if you wanted to share.
I confess that I know nothing about this stuff. The graphs seem to indicate that the 12V alternator actually provides more watts at lower RPM’s? So does this mean that the 48V alternator is only a benefit if you are driving at a faster speed on a highway?
The 48V volt alternator produces less power at idle but nearly double at higher, driving RPMs. There is more detail in our blog post if you're curious: www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/48-volt-secondary-alternator-power-system/
I can't believe I live in Sarasota and didn't know you were here before I bought most of my 48 volt stuff. It was a lot of work installing it myself and figuring out complexities. You guys really earn your money for installations and bring so much value with your experience. Glad I finally connected with you all and can't recommend you enough to people considering upgrading their van system.
Thanks for the kind words! Safe travels :)
Great explanation of when/why to go 48v and some of the considerations when doing so.
Very nice presentation, bottom line, it’s all because of the air conditioner. That 15,000 BTU unit is incredible. Or, go to traditional route and put in a generator.
I'm in Australia so our domestic appliances are 240v not 1110vv but that makes little difference. IMO the only reason to choose 12v or 24v is to maintain the same native voltage of the vehicle in situations where your power draw is basic. Lights, tv, small fridge. If you have any desire to use domestic type equipment such as induction, electric frypans, kettles, toasters, microvwaves, AC etc skip 12 and 24 and go straight to 48v. Its not like it costs more but it does allow a huge amount of potential. Just turning on a kettle requires 160 odd amps at 12v vs 40amps at 48. Even if the cable was free the bigger stuff is just a pain to work with not to mention resistance plays a big part as far as cable lengths go at such low voltages as 12v. When you ditch the 12/24 volt camping style appliances/brands for proper 110v/240v domestic items you get a much larger range to choose from too.
Those rpm figures on the alternator are for alternator speed not engine speed. They are geared via pulley size and run faster than engine RPM. They output heaps at engine idle. I'm pretty sure the Nations alternator does have diode protection but you'd use a Balmar APM for the extremely rare occation the BMS load dumps due to an individual cell low/high voltage alarm. 48v alternators also need an external regulater like a Wakespeed or Balmar unit.
Long story short, be realistic about what you want to power now and in the future and build accordingly. 48v is infinitely more flexible than 12v
Thanks!
Thank you for this series. Myself and many others are hungry for knowledge about 48v. I’m seriously considering going to 48v for the extra charging capability. From the alternator and from more easily adding a lot more solar panels. With 12v it’s difficult to add a large amount of panels for charging. It’s a shame that with 48v the idle charging is less though.
Hi, I have (1) Ecoflow balcony hybrid solar plant. (2) Delta pro 3.6kWh battery - inverter is connected and charged via (3) Ecoflow Powerstream, when it creates a peak.
I have also (4) Victron 150/35 for charging my (5) 12kWh 51,2V 230ah battery with solar panels. This battery is connected to Delta pro via XT60 solar input (1600 W / 11-150 V max. 15 A ) and charges Delta pro. What fuses and where should I put them, to be Delta pro and battery protected ?
What kind of litature and / or diagrams do you have for this 48v system?
Check out our blog post about the system here: www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/48-volt-secondary-alternator-power-system/
Hey friend,Does the 48v alternator fit a duramax?
Forgive my lack of understanding , however the camera was scanning two, 200ah 24V batteries, while you said that, “with just two 24V batteries in series, we will have a 200ah bank at 48V which is equivalent to a 800ah bank at 12 V”. This was confusing as you didn’t clarify what ah size 24V batteries you were referring to? If you go by what was videoed(two 200ah 24V batteries), you would have a total of 400ah of 24V batteries. But if you were referring to two 100ah 24V batteries which weren’t shown then you would have a 200ah bank of 24V batteries which is what you said?
Get a Safiery 48v/28v smart dc dc converter, much easier!
Didn’t have to worry too much about the numbers, couldn’t understand much of the non technical stuff. Had to google boomdocking???
How do you manage the load dumps? It seems like the most catastrophic scenario.
Yes, a load dump would be very bad! So, in our example system (link below), we use products that have been tested to work together in an intelligent way including Victron Smart lithium batteries with the Lynx Smart BMS that has CAN communication with the Wakespeed alternator regulator so that if the batteries are going to trigger a disconnect the Wakespeed can respond by removing the field drive before that happens. Also, the only "battery switch" in this system is the 500 amp "contactor" inside the Lynx BMS. So, even a manual disconnect of the battery, through that switch would communicate that disconnect to the Wakespeed prior to it actually happening. Beyond that, it's using the right components like wire, circuit protection, etc.
www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/48-volt-secondary-alternator-power-system/
Do you have any info on the “bi-directional” version of the 48v alternator and “advanced” version of the Wakespeed500? This bi-directional version is amazing. It can simultaneously charge from the 48v alternator and the 12v alternator at the same time to add even more charge. Maybe this would make up for the less ideling charge with the 48v alternator? Please do a vid on this system. It seems to be the best on the market right now.
I believe that product was discontinued by Wakespeed but I'd have to double check. Have you looked into this Safiery Scotty? safiery.com/product/scotty-3kw-12-48v-canbus-bi-directional-dc-to-dc/
@@VanlifeOutfitters oh no! It was discontinued?? Are you sure??
@@VanlifeOutfitters I’m so interested in the bi-directional approach with the 48v 2nd alternator because the ideling charge of the 48v 2nd alternator is so low. We need something to boost those ideling numbers. Why is the 48v so low a charge at idle? Do you know of any workaround this problem?
I went 48v. But I totally disagree that there isn't sufficient net gain going from 12v to 24v. I had a 24v system due to receiving the system free, and it was WELL worth what minute changes that needed to be made, and as far as complexity? I can't honestly even compute in what way it's more "complex". As far as I'm concerned, more IS better when it comes to voltage on electrical systems. I kick myself for going 12v the first two times..what was I thinking.
Thanks for watching. Yes, we labeled those comments about 12v vs. 24v as a "hot take" assuming not everyone would agree. It's also important to remember the context is a Nations, secondary alternator as a primary charging source. Did you read the blog post where we compare the rated current output of a Nation 12v vs. 24v alternator?
www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/48-volt-secondary-alternator-power-system/
Also, would love to learn more about your 48v system if you wanted to share.
I confess that I know nothing about this stuff. The graphs seem to indicate that the 12V alternator actually provides more watts at lower RPM’s? So does this mean that the 48V alternator is only a benefit if you are driving at a faster speed on a highway?
The 48V volt alternator produces less power at idle but nearly double at higher, driving RPMs. There is more detail in our blog post if you're curious: www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/48-volt-secondary-alternator-power-system/