Excellent video Eric. I just want to say that VCM was not the same every year. In the Odyssey's case, there have been 3 versions of VCM used to date: 2005-2007 - VCM-1 - VCM is only present in the rear cylinder head, 3 or 6 cylinder mode 2008-2017 - VCM-2 - VCM is present in both the rear and front cylinder head. All 3 rear bank cylinders can be disabled, or one cylinder on the rear (cylinder 3) and one cylinder in the front (cylinder 4) can be disabled at the same time. 2018-present - VCM-3 - Identical to VCM-1 Also, when there is a check engine light on for any reason, even if it's not related to the VCM system, VCM is automatically disabled. The VCM Muzzlers all only affect the ECT1 sensor, which affects the reading sent to the computer and the temperature gauge on the dash. ECT2, which controls cooling fan operation, is not affected. It has been determined through experimenting that the temperature threshold required for VCM to operate is 167 degrees Fahrenheit. So for a VCM muzzler to be doing its job, the temperature while cruising should be kept under 167 degrees. The reason why you were getting the check engine light for the temperature sensor even when you installed it with the engine off is that it not only has to be off but the engine also has to be cold, as some of the systems still remain active when the car is turned off, so it'll still detect you unplugging the coolant temperature sensor. If the resistance setting is too low, VCM will still engage, and if the resistance setting is too high, you'll get a check engine light for the coolant temperature sensor. The VCM DIPressor is not what most of us use. Generally we use the VCMuzzler II, the S-VCM, or the VCMTuner II as they are well-made products and have great customer support. The latter two are not resistor or DIP switch based. They use a microcontroller and are fully automatic, meaning once installed, they tune the resistance automatically and never need to be adjusted, whereas the DIP switch and resistor versions need to be adjusted as the weather changes. Also, unlike the resistor and DIP switch based devices, which can still allow VCM to come on in situations such as idling, the automatic devices will disable VCM 100% of the time.
That's great info. Thank you very much for sharing it. I'm hoping the PCM reflash that Honda did will address any adverse VCM issues. Time will tell I suppose. Thanks again for the input.
@@ericthecarguy Yes, I'm hoping it will work out good as well. Even if I don't necessarily agree with how you're going about it, I can still respect your stance. I really do hope it works out well.
Took a long trip in my 2008 Odyssey last month. We got a MIL after eight hours of driving every day - almost all of it on the interstate with the VCM system activated most of the time. Obvious misfire. Bought a cheap code reader at Walmart (who travels with their nice code reader?) Turned out to be a Cyl 3 misfire. Checked the plug - OK, swapped out the #3 coil (cheap enough) and started the drive home. Same thing happened at the same time with the same code. Decided to disable the VCM system with something called S-VCM Controller. It has no adjustments and handles everything electronically, instead of using DIP switches. Plugged it into the harness and the temp sensor, like the other one, and had to run a wire to the positive battery cable (there's a place for it). Works like a charm. Haven't seen the ECO light yet, and that's fine with me. BTW.... Eric, you rock. I really enjoy your videos.
@@npolite22 Seeing that the standard oil changing intervals from the manufacturers are pretty long, I'd say it does not need to be a missed interval. I'd assume this could be prevented/prolonged with changing the oil more often and using high quality oils.
Even though I don't need it (because I don't own a Honda), I really appreciate the fact that Eric points every single part no at the camera for people to reference. That's a very cool gesture (and helpful for some, I suppose)!
Have no need for a van but watching this series makes me want to run out and buy the 1st high mileage Odyssey I find just so I can pretend I know how to fix it when it gives me troublle. Keep up the good work sir!
I have 2 codes that are giving me such a headache and the codes are P1174 and P0305 previously was P0304 and from time to time it is both. I have replaced coils,spark plugs and even swapped coils to eliminate possible coil issues. Also replaced the iddle sensor,pcv valve,gaskets on air intake. There are times it runs fine, but when it doesn't I noticed it lacks power there was a moment when I accelerated to see how fast I could go it just stopped shifting after maybe 2nd gear and got to about 3500 rpm. Another issue that I have is just like in your video after the vehicle iddles for 3 mins my rpm go all the way to 2000 rpm
Eric, your videos are so damn therapeutic, even when the fixes don't apply to me. Short videos about repairs are nice, but watching somebody go through the whole process is so fascinating and super enjoyable.
Eric, I see now that I’m not the only one that gets stumped with some of these issues. I just spent the last few days chasing a problem. I haven’t found the problem but I will. Press on! 😉👍
This video helped me a lot. The part that really helped was having the resistance of the oil pressure sensor. Turned out when i bought a new Dorman one, it was bad. The original was still good. Should have only changed the oil/filter and the VVT gasket. Thanks Eric, you have helped me out more than once!
Well this repair has certainly been and Odyssey! Heh, heh, heh... See what I did there? 'Cause the vehicle model is... Um, I'll just go sit over there.
@@ericthecarguy But you had bad pressure switch to begin with though. Bad pressure switch + VCM muzzler = VCM muzzler is junk? That does not sound right. Then, you replace bad pressure switch and do not replace the muzzler = Muzzler did not do anything for me? I just do not understand your logic.
@Stranger Land Don't forget that I also had the PCM reflashed by Honda with the updates to avoid the issues the VCM causes. It's not like I didn't address the issue, I just didn't do it with the VCM muzzler. In my view, the van works as designed now. If you use the muzzler, your fuel economy will be compromised. I'd rather have the VCM and better fuel economy. In summary, the van is fixed. Just because I didn't fix it they way you thought I should does not change that fact. I personally don't feel the muzzler is the way to go.
@@strangerland9791 I do understand what he's saying. The muzzler cannot fix an issue with the mechanical VCM components, it's designed to stop VCM so the piston rings and spark plugs can recover. And so he had to actually fix that. At this point, the muzzler would just be for preventing VCM issues, and Eric has already said he's not interested in that. The VCM version 1 engine in this 05 isn't quite as problematic as the VCM-2 engine present in 2008-17 Odysseys anyway, even though VCM as a concept is still flawed. The VCM in VCM1 engines doesn't engage as much as VCM-2 does in normal driving to cause a problem, because there are fewer situations where 3 cylinders is enough power than there are where 4 cylinders is enough power.
@@ericthecarguy My service advisor at Honda (a former service tech) said that there were no updates for the 2005 Odyssey's engine/transmission ECU/PCM.. Any reflash should have been to original factory spec only. The best reason to use a VCM disabler is to prevent spark plug fouling, oil consumption, premature active engine mount failure etc.. Pretty much every VCM disabler is flawed by needing to adjust the resister depending on seasonal temps etc, even the VCM Tuner 1... but the VCM Tuner 2 automatically adjusts itself. It can even be set to give an audible alarm if coolant temp is too hot, and can be wired with a toggle switch to activate and deactivate the muzzler from the driver's seat (e.g. deactivate muzzler in town. activate it on the highway) The muzzler that you got was probably going to create issues anyway, especially if the van's recipient didn't know how to adjust the resistor... but if "ECO" was still engaging with it muzzled, then the resistor was not set "properly".
So I learned that paper towel with the nut in a socket trick from Eric a long time ago and it has been one of the greatest tricks to pass on to others. Thanks Eric.
We had a 2009 Honda Odyssey Touring with the VCM...and Honda ended up replacing the VCM cylinder piston rings as the spark plugs were getting fouled...and we were using about a quart of oil every 3,000 miles. I thought about getting a VCM muzzler but was concerned about the unintended consequences of using it. The piston ring upgrade did improve mpg and reduced oil consumption by about half...but I'm still not sold on the technology. Of course, my wife loves the Odyssey and traded the 09 for a 2017 Touring Elite....and so far it doesn't seem to consume oil.
I see this all too often. Someone has a older car, namely Honda, and it begins to have issues. Owner gets "mechanic" to look at it. Good factory parts that almost never go bad, are replaced without needing to be. And replaced with junk parts, then the car still has a issue, ends up sold for junk. A vicious cycle
@@bizbot1655 You don't know much about vehicles whatsoever. And don't try to argue, you just posted proof you don't have the slightest clue what you are talking about on the internet for the entire internet to see... You shouldn't talk on subjects you know nothing about....
I just picked up an Accord at auction, primarily serviced by a independent garage. It went into limp mode, throwing many codes for ABS/VSA, check engine light for ECM failure and mass airflow. I changed out the mass air flow with a known good oem part and it was fixed. I got a $20 junk yard oem part.
@@midwestfarm757 This is common on many cars not just Hondas. Non-OEM MAF sensors often do not meet specs and do not work. Even thought the OEM part is more expensive do not substitute aftermarket sensors.
Slather on white GOOP waterless hand cleaner (not citrus or pumice) all over that dash, around vents, knee bolsters, etc. Wait >1 hour, wipe off with absorbent paper towels. Grime is lifted out, lanolin softens the vinyl, helps stop cracking.
Yes Eric, I do often like the challenge, even tho, when u can't figure out the problem, u have to walk away, and come back to it, the next day, when u r fresh! A few yrs ago, I installed a tilt column, in my 72 Cutlass Supreme. That job fought me, from the word go, and became an all summer job. But every time I get in/out of the car, I am thankful for the extra room, that the tilt column provides! I enjoy your videos. Thx, Clay
Great vid Eric! My wife's 2011 Pilot had the same issue. 3 trips to the dealer to fix and there is also a TSB out on it! They had to replace oil sensors and clean out and replace the spool valve on the rear of the system that controls the Eco mode! TSB suggested switching from 5W20 to 0W20 also.
I thought it was "universally" recommended to move any "normal" 5W20 application to 0w20? Same viscosity at operating temp, just closer to such when cold. Unless one's racing and going above operating temp, everything I've read indicates that's the best thing to do for engine longevity.
@@ratdude747 Good question. I used to use the 5W20 when I changed the oil because that is what Honda recommended (owners manual and oil fill cap). Now since I had that issue I use the 0W20 per the TSB.
I'm so excited after a 50 min video it's looking good! I'm especially excited that we get to me the wonderful deserving person that is in need of this van. A+
Here's my theory:- The original pressure switch is/was fine. The whole problem originally was the blocked screen. When you fitted the new screen, you also fitted the (bad) new sensor. Once you got back to the original sensor (with a clear screen), all was well. Problem is there's something in the oil which blocks the screen. Eventually it will block enough for the problem to return unless you get whatever that is out of the oil somehow.
I believe the debris was from the engine flush I did in an earlier episode. Before I gave the van away yesterday I checked the screen again and it was clear. I plan to monitor the situation going forward. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy Cool that the screen remained clear now. If the error comes back, you know exactly where to look first :-) If it does, I think I'd get some of the cheapest available oil and do 3 or 4 oil changes running it up to temp in between each one, then swap out the filter on the last one. By the way, I've had the same deal with cheap coolant temp sensors for VW/Audi. The aftermarket ones are so much cheaper, it's worth trying a few to get a good one, but only if it's your car and you don't mind swapping them out a few times.
Well, you're definitely cementing my theory that Odysseys are what pay my bills. Love the diagnosis videos Eric, really reminds me of the old school videos. You're the reason I became a Honda tech!
@@dylanandersen9318 ah yea, how are the 2011-2017 ody 6 speed auts do they fail here and there?? Just read that a few are having total failures on 2022 ody 10 speed autos.
thank you for this diagnosis. my 2007 odyssey exl J35a7 (VCM1) 242k miles, started having issues with high oil consumption and filling up of cylinders. while it wasn't just the bank1 i had a valve cover gasket issue as well. in the end after getting that complete valve cover replacement and intake plenum, its been ok. then after a year or so oil consumption 2- 2.5qts per oil change and then I started feeling the in balances in the engine when it shutdowns 3 cylinders and go away after hitting gas. I decided to do a VCM Delete with S-VCM Controller. so far its good. going to change the oil and look at its oil consumption and fuel mpg. I would of never known about the "MUZZLERS" out there with out this video. cheers
So nice to see this Fixing it forward -series going on again :) Interesting fixes for this Odyssey, looking forward to see the giveaway episode. And of course, what might be the next vehicle to be fixed.
YES, Their shouldn't be that much junk on that screen in only 70 miles. You just know it's going to cause a problem for SIR ERIC when he hands over the keys. Those types of systems are a " PAIN IN THE ASS ". GREAT VID. & YOU ARE A GREAT HUMAN BEING, SIR ERIC.
Glad to see that something you did fixed the problem! Also glad that replacing the PCM wasn’t on that list! That seems to be the go to for the local mechanics here whenever there is an issue that involves the PCM. Lol.
vcm gasket, ive experienced the valve its self leaks and honda doesn't offer sandwich gasket, the pressure switches normally fail/leak , service bulletins out the ass. the cam end cap o-rings should be replaced at the same time the valve/gasket is replaced. pcv valve contributes to intake pollution, oil control rings love to freeze in the ringlands and after awhile kills rear converter. the excessive oil in combustion chamber fouls out plugs and throws fuel and oil from cyl into converter. I've seen people let the rings soak for a few days drain oil new plugs and prime new oil into system before restarting. I've performed countless piston ring jobs on odysseys, pilots, accord v6, ridgelines. replaced shortblocks on r19s because of coolant leak from a porous blocks, replaced pistons with new rings on k20-k24s even the tiny insight engines needed pistons. Ohh yea i cant forget about the high pressure power steering hoses that can really put a flame under your butt.
I have 06 Odyssey EXL w/A7 (IVtEC) engine. At 165k found metal shaving in oil. Discovered two con rod and one main bearing halves worn and the rear camshaft lobes badly pitted. Replaced all those parts. No luck 1000 miles later change oil and much more metal shavings. Tear engine down and discover other bearings wearing. So I pop for JDM 3.0 engine. Fits fine and runs great. Runs fine for a few days then experience what you seem to have gone thru with erratic idle, rpm does not reduce when you take foot off accelerator and VSA triangle warning light on. That warning light throws engine into limp mode that feels like it is going to explode. Codes P0507 (high idle) and P2279 (vacuum leak). So I change upper and lower intake manifold gaskets which were okay. Engine did not have vacuum leak. The engine computer was just guessing the cause of the high idle!!! Spend hours trying UT video fixes, like 3000 rpm for 10 minutes, etc. None worked. I even adjusted the valves which were actually pretty close to okay. Nothing worked until I got the right scanner. Found UT video where guy used Foxwell NT510 scanner to fix it. That scanner is obsolete, NT-530 is replacement for $160. That scanner is car make specific. When you get it, you have to activate and upload Honda data before use. A bit tricky, but their customer service (Chinese) is fantastic to guide you thru. That scanner is fantastic. It is essentially a Honda HDS level scanner and it has special functions (bi-directional) for throttle and VSA reset. After resetting the throttle, you let the engine idle for 10 minutes. It cleared the VSA light easy. My Odyssey has not run this well in a long time. I know you have the high end Bosch, but this scanner runs rings around yours. You need a dedicated Honda OEM scanner and this Foxwell is it. I also have a couple of other medium end scanners and they are worthless on Honda. Given your Odyssey is an early 05 with 192k miles, that engine has got to be close to the end of its life. So do not discount it is just worn out. I would be suspicious what the rear cam lobes looked like.
Now isn't that weird? The NT510 is supposed to be obsolete but it costs $ 200 on Amazon. The "replacement" NT530 is selling for $ 170. There must be something different between the two. I do see where they call the NT510 a bi-directional scanner and don't mention that for the NT530. And I just see where there is an NT630 for $ 150. I've definitely got a lot more reading to do.
Very interesting results with the muzzling device - on some forums, folks preach about those things like religious zealots! We didn't have vcm on our 05 odyssey (it was only on the fancy pants versions like the EX-L, and we just had an EX) and the engine still ran beautifully at 284k miles when we traded it in, but have it on our 16 SE and it works really well. I'm amazed at how well they manage the vibration with the active mounts - you can't even feel it when the engine transitions to or is running on a reduced cylinder count!
Eric just a thought here maybe the PCM needs to see zero ohms when the system is activated. The aftermarket switch would never read that as you proved many times. Put the OEM switch in walla. So, like I do all the time, you were just chasing. Main issue in my opinion is bad oil change maintenance before you got the Van. I have many Honda’s and the early versions of screen related transmission/engine oil filters were always issues. Key is to change oil on a regular (5k) interval and you don’t build up gunk. Love your channel bro. Between you and Eric O from SMA I get my daily fix of learning.
I believe the debris was from the engine flush I did in an earlier episode. Before I gave the van away yesterday I checked the screen again and it was clear. I plan to monitor the situation going forward. Thanks for the comment.
Glad you made the decision to deactivate the VCM Eric. Back when you introduced this van and all it’s issues I had commented with some advice and what I’ve experienced with the Honda 3.5 and the vcm causing so many issues. Hopefully the van lasts for some time now for the new lucky owner. Edit: Well whoops guess I should’ve watched till the end before commenting. Nevertheless good on you for hanging in there and finding the fix, whatever that might have been lol.
Yay muzzler! I truly don't believe you lose that much mpg. I've had a muzzler installed for 3 years. Zero problems and family trips still see decent gas mileage
I can't see how disabling a system designed to increase fuel economy nets you similar fuel economy. That would be a massive engineering waste on Hondas part if that were the case. I find that the people in the VCM muzzler crowd do a lot of justification of disabling the system. Not to say that Honda didn't have issues with it, just that I refuse to drink the VCM disabling koolaid. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy It's more about protecting your motor mounts (active ones = $$$), oil consumption, spark plug fouling and so on. The early implementation on the VCM was very herky-jerky. I'm telling you I still get very good gas mileage on an 05 with VCM disabled on long trips. The engine just seems to run better overall without VCM. The VCM was also in Honda's favor as they dodged CAFE fines from implementing this system so it's not all about netting the end user a little extra MPG. I would happily cut 1-2 MPG to avoid all the other issues VCM causes.
I had a similar problem with the VTEC screen clogging up on my CRV. I ended up changing the oil 3 times within about 100 miles. I think it was because of a lot of dirt collecting around the dipstick tube on the K24 and me clumsily knocking it into the valve cover when checking the oil.
@@midwestfarm757 - actually, i did clean that one too, but it was difficult to get to, I think I had to remove the belt first. I only cleaned that one once.
We have an Element and an Odyssey and most people in both communities that have replaced oil sensors found the cheap ones don’t work, and the expensive Honda ones do. Additionally, the ECO light simply tells the driver they are being economical. VCM will only engage if the ECO light is on, but the VCM actually can go on and off while the ECO light is on. There is a separate signal you can track for the VCM but it’s not indicated to the driver anywhere.
@@ericthecarguy definitely possible. I don’t really understand the system itself, although on. One of the forums, a member identified the electrical signal that tells the engine to shut down the extra cylinders, and when you monitor that wire, the signal is not consistent with the eco light. IIRC, it was one of the wires coming off the back of the engine, but I can’t find the forum post now to confirm. Either way, I agree the VCM muzzler doesn’t seem to solve all the issues. I did find on the version I got, that it was causing CEL if I adjusted or installed it while the engine was warm at all. Idk if you might want to try putting the muzzler back on after the van sits overnight to cool down completely.
Is the ACM: "active cylinder management" or "active control mounts?" J35A7 engines have special engine mounts to smooth out the NVH when VCM is active.
Recently installed a new passenger side transmission/axle seal in my son’s 2003 Accord. Had a choice to make. Drive 5 miles to Autozone and pick up $4.99 Dorman seal, or drive 50 miles to the nearest Honda dealer for the OEM seal for $14.95. Opted for the latter. No more leak!
Eric did you try putting the old pressure switch back in? maybe it was just the closed filter and the problem only came back cause of the cheaper switch? edit: I finished watching and see that you did. lol good video man very engaging
I just spent the day deciding which VCM disabler to get. After reading the S-VCM website about how the resistor method is a poor choice and why, I narrowed my selection down to the S-VCM and the VCM Tuner II. Both have pros and cons and which one depends on what YOU want. I just ordered the S-VCM because it seems to keep the VCM system disabled ALL THE TIME and yet allow true coolant temperatures in case of an overheat in contrast to the VCM Tuner II which seems to have the VCM running some of the time. My eyes and brain were getting blurry from reading all the material. There were other considerations but you folks will have to read the two websites and evaluate for yourselves.
Great commitment and sometimes a hard issue you seem to fix is a great feeling. I don't think this vehicle was as bad, or expensive, as the old Town&Country van? But still had some kinks to work out for sure.
I had the same exact issue with my 08 Accord 2.4L and its P2646 code which was regarding my vtc solenoid (spool valve). I changed the whole assembly with a honda oem part ($120) that includes new gaskets, o ring and oil pressure switch (37250-PRB-A01). I also changed the oil to ensure the engine has fresh oil in it. After driving it for a bit when I pass 5000 rpm, I still had the same engine code and later on my code changed to P2647 when I started the car and was idling. That led me to believe that the pressure switch, which was already BRAND NEW from honda. I couldn't return it because it's an electronic part so i ended up buying a new oil pressure switch from eBay for $17 (not sure if it was oem or a counterfeit). The funny thing was, there are two different part numbers for the pressure switch and the one I got had on (and the one replaced) was a blue connector (Part no. 37250-PRB-A01) and I bought one with a black connector (part no. 37250-PNE-G01). The TSB for my car also mentioned to replace the sensor with the black connector and replace the PS with 37250-PRB-A01. And after 5,000 miles and a month of driving, I've had no issues whatsoever. I know this is a long story but I wanted to throw this out there because I can understand Eric's frustration and confusion with the VCM. But I'm glad we both tackled the issue. Also shame on Honda for sending me a defective oem part and not honoring their return policy.
Also be sure you're running the recommended oil viscosity on the oil cap. I've seen many problems with VTEC caused by using the incorrect oil. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy Of course! I've always been doing 5000 mile regular oil changes on the driveway with 5w-20 synthetic Mobil1. The K24Z3 still runs strong with 211k miles on the odometer :))
My check engine light just tripped in my 2010 Honda Accord EX-L (VCM) I been heard so many bad things about this motor and wish I heard them before I purchased it but I still enjoy my car
Yes, 10 years of damage has already been done but that doesn't mean it's too late to put a muzzler on, just to reduce any further damage. I bought 2010 Accord coupe about 2 years ago and once I saw how bad some of the plugs were and then belated researched VCM issues, I got a Muzzler and it runs much better now.
The quality fix is to delete VCM. It's not normal or good for the long term life of a engine to have one, two or three cylinders just shutting down and dead-legging the rest of the components. It's terrible a gimmick to increase MPG stats. Like rowing a boat and then 1 to 3 of your 5 crew members just keep randomly drop their oars.
Looks the the VCM is expecting to have a very clean supply of pressurized engine oil, which makes sense as it is using the oil in a hydraulic (mechanical) spool based servo. Crap in the oil is going to be a problem long term unless whatever is putting junk into the oil is found and fixed. I am guessing that this sensitivity to the oil purity is why they were so unreliable as time past and the engine got more miles on it... Maybe a few low miles oil changes will make it work a bit longer. Thanks for the going through the effort to do the experiments on the device. It's nice to know now how sensitive it is and how critical an accurate oil pressure sensor is to have. Cheers,
I suspect that was a result of the engine flush that I did in an earlier episode. I checked the screen again before I gave the van away yesterday and it was clean. I will continue to monitor the situation though. Thanks for the comment.
Chasing an issue like that can be incredibly frustrating. But you have to love modern cars these days. They become so incredibly complex just to try to save a tiny bit of fuel so that they are more 'green' but as a result become extremely unreliable and get totalled out and scrapped so much faster undoing any good that the gas savings might have done. Auto makers need to go back to KISS, keep it simple stupid. I would rather have a car that burns gas and will last for 2 decades rather then one that burns less but only lasts a few years. The EPA has pushed auto makers too far and have made it impossible to find a reliable car anymore.
Very intriguing problems and great video Eric very weird dosent make sense to me why when eco mode turns on the oil pressure sensor would drop to 0 psi tones of interesting problems in this video very intrigued 🤔 good episode @EricTheCarGuy
I used a vcm suppressor, DIpressor. But if I had found this I would have considered doing this instead. The vcm suppressor works, but is glitchy when temperatures change, especially in summer.
I think the old gasket not only had screen gunked, but also have internal leaks between the ports with small external leak. The new gasket seal up good on all the different ports of the solenoid assembly, hence the problem goes away with just a gasket replacement.
@EricTheCarGuy I had this exact same problem with an 07 odyssey never could figure it out. Ended up trading it in for a '12 instead after the timing belt broke. Thanks for such detailed videos!
Eric while watching the video you changed the gasket with a clean screen and the new pressure switch and no good. I was hoping you put the old pressure switch back on and no problem. Maybe a new seal and clean filter fixed it. Also they are very sensitively the correct oil which I’m sure you already know. I hope for your sake it’s fixed. You and your family stay safe and well Artie 🇺🇸☺️ Eric I would change the oil again. Just a thought 👍
I already flushed the engine in a previous episode. I believe that is the reason for the debris. I checked the screen again after giving the van away yesterday and it was not clogged at all. Thanks for the comments.
I had similar problems with knock sensors on a Toyota. New Toyota were close to $200 each. Aftermarket were $18. I learned after having to remove the intake manifold twice. I am surprised that you went for the aftermarket considering on your Element you went all Honda, and most of the parts were common replacement parts with quality aftermarket options at considerably less money.
Great point. I did that to mirror what my viewers might do. It worked out better than expected in making the point that OE parts are always preferable. Thanks for the comment.
Having VCM issues on a 2010 currently. It has the VCM on bank 1, just like this Odyssey, as well as on cylinder 4 on bank 2. I WISH the previous owner had installed a muzzler! Why? The piston rings have coked up with carbon and now It has random misfires. Requires new rings…. There WAS a recall for this, but this vehicle is out of that warranty date. This happens because the oil gets drawn past the rings when VCM deactivates the cylinders for eco mode. On reactivation, that oil gets burnt and viola - rings eventually have issues
No I haven't, you just haven't been getting notifications. Be sure to click the bell! I've been posting weekly for years. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
S-VCM is what I use to disable VCM, still getting about the same MPG. Car drives so much better with VCM off. Sure, I don't have the Odyssey but the Accord Coupe GEN8. Love these V6 Honda J-series! 40MPG or 17km/l at 55MPH or 90km/h. Mostly used at 6400 feet above sea-level with Mexican Gasoline.
Sorry, but I find it very hard to believe you're getting the same fuel economy as you did before disabling that system. You can't disable a system designed to increase fuel economy and expect it to get the same fuel economy, it just doesn't add up to me. Still, thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy , I do get *about the same MPG* (said it like that in the first comment too). Now tops 40MPG, before tops 42MPG. I had a Renault Megane II 2.0l 4 banger and it would do the same MPG tops. Honda engines are amazing when it comes to fuel consumption. Normally the Accord Coupe GEN8 does not show MPG so I installed a ODB2 Bluetooth adapter (a few for testing) to pair with an Android device and used different apps. On first I could not believe that the MPG was about the same either and was skeptical about disabling the VCM. What I like the most is not the MPG; it is the response of the whole VCM system that make these J-Series slower than they should be. No youtube video maker here else I would have made an in debt video about it. If I would be living a few states away, I would invite you to test my car and see it yourself Eric. Love your videos, best Honda car related content! Your video of the timing belt swap helped me out a lot!
I HATE buying electronic aftermarket parts for my Civic. I've done it in the past and every single one of them failed in under a year. I went through 3 IACV's in about a year and a half, I finally gave in and bought the OEM one for 600 bucks.
For my piece of mind, id drop the pan, clean out what ever junk is obviously still in there, and change the filter a few times. My thought process is, if that crap is making it past the filter and getting caught in that screen, its also going through the oil pump and bearings.
I believe the debris is from an engine flush I did in an earlier episode. I checked the screen again yesterday before I gave the van away and it was clear. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks ETCG! My 2006 Odyssey has the same issue and I have been going nuts trying to figure it out. I replaced the Oil Pressure Sensor with an after market also and got it to drive out of limp mode but the engine light and VSA still come on. I will next replace the Solenoid and see if that fixes it.
Perhaps that line loss could be due to the fact of a corroded connector or corroded wire into the connector pin because that additional voltage drop but I’m not sure without being there I have had several different vehicles with these phantom issues that I have went through and literally made it out each individual pin to the Said sensor To find any issue then proceeded to clean the pins very carefully and that seem to have solved the issue
I had a deja Vu moment when Eric went to go test the resistance. Wes recently had an aftermarket part that had the pins too far recessed in or something.
![เบิ้ล ปทุมราช - สาวสอง ( มีมี่ของอ้าย ) ft. ตาต้า,ต้องเต [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mqlMjnP08XI/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video Eric. I just want to say that VCM was not the same every year. In the Odyssey's case, there have been 3 versions of VCM used to date:
2005-2007 - VCM-1 - VCM is only present in the rear cylinder head, 3 or 6 cylinder mode
2008-2017 - VCM-2 - VCM is present in both the rear and front cylinder head. All 3 rear bank cylinders can be disabled, or one cylinder on the rear (cylinder 3) and one cylinder in the front (cylinder 4) can be disabled at the same time.
2018-present - VCM-3 - Identical to VCM-1
Also, when there is a check engine light on for any reason, even if it's not related to the VCM system, VCM is automatically disabled.
The VCM Muzzlers all only affect the ECT1 sensor, which affects the reading sent to the computer and the temperature gauge on the dash. ECT2, which controls cooling fan operation, is not affected.
It has been determined through experimenting that the temperature threshold required for VCM to operate is 167 degrees Fahrenheit. So for a VCM muzzler to be doing its job, the temperature while cruising should be kept under 167 degrees. The reason why you were getting the check engine light for the temperature sensor even when you installed it with the engine off is that it not only has to be off but the engine also has to be cold, as some of the systems still remain active when the car is turned off, so it'll still detect you unplugging the coolant temperature sensor.
If the resistance setting is too low, VCM will still engage, and if the resistance setting is too high, you'll get a check engine light for the coolant temperature sensor.
The VCM DIPressor is not what most of us use. Generally we use the VCMuzzler II, the S-VCM, or the VCMTuner II as they are well-made products and have great customer support. The latter two are not resistor or DIP switch based. They use a microcontroller and are fully automatic, meaning once installed, they tune the resistance automatically and never need to be adjusted, whereas the DIP switch and resistor versions need to be adjusted as the weather changes. Also, unlike the resistor and DIP switch based devices, which can still allow VCM to come on in situations such as idling, the automatic devices will disable VCM 100% of the time.
That's great info. Thank you very much for sharing it. I'm hoping the PCM reflash that Honda did will address any adverse VCM issues. Time will tell I suppose. Thanks again for the input.
@@ericthecarguy Yes, I'm hoping it will work out good as well. Even if I don't necessarily agree with how you're going about it, I can still respect your stance. I really do hope it works out well.
Took a long trip in my 2008 Odyssey last month. We got a MIL after eight hours of driving every day - almost all of it on the interstate with the VCM system activated most of the time. Obvious misfire. Bought a cheap code reader at Walmart (who travels with their nice code reader?) Turned out to be a Cyl 3 misfire. Checked the plug - OK, swapped out the #3 coil (cheap enough) and started the drive home. Same thing happened at the same time with the same code.
Decided to disable the VCM system with something called S-VCM Controller. It has no adjustments and handles everything electronically, instead of using DIP switches.
Plugged it into the harness and the temp sensor, like the other one, and had to run a wire to the positive battery cable (there's a place for it). Works like a charm. Haven't seen the ECO light yet, and that's fine with me.
BTW.... Eric, you rock. I really enjoy your videos.
Showing the actual process and logic of diagnosing the problem is priceless. Thanks Eric!
Had the same problem on my Si. Clogged filter screen. Saw this video , cleaned it and WHAMMO!! Vtec again. Thanks Eric.
Does the VTEC kick in yo?
@@pizzamon795 si senior
@@Luminosity47 there
Does this happen due to missed oil change intervals?
@@npolite22 Seeing that the standard oil changing intervals from the manufacturers are pretty long, I'd say it does not need to be a missed interval. I'd assume this could be prevented/prolonged with changing the oil more often and using high quality oils.
Even though I don't need it (because I don't own a Honda), I really appreciate the fact that Eric points every single part no at the camera for people to reference. That's a very cool gesture (and helpful for some, I suppose)!
Thank you for noticing.
I absolutely LOVE this troubleshooting video. The "how does it work" stuff is great!!
Have no need for a van but watching this series makes me want to run out and buy the 1st high mileage Odyssey I find just so I can pretend I know how to fix it when it gives me troublle.
Keep up the good work sir!
I have 2 codes that are giving me such a headache and the codes are P1174 and P0305 previously was P0304 and from time to time it is both. I have replaced coils,spark plugs and even swapped coils to eliminate possible coil issues. Also replaced the iddle sensor,pcv valve,gaskets on air intake. There are times it runs fine, but when it doesn't I noticed it lacks power there was a moment when I accelerated to see how fast I could go it just stopped shifting after maybe 2nd gear and got to about 3500 rpm. Another issue that I have is just like in your video after the vehicle iddles for 3 mins my rpm go all the way to 2000 rpm
Eric, your videos are so damn therapeutic, even when the fixes don't apply to me. Short videos about repairs are nice, but watching somebody go through the whole process is so fascinating and super enjoyable.
Thank you!
Eric, I see now that I’m not the only one that gets stumped with some of these issues. I just spent the last few days chasing a problem. I haven’t found the problem but I will. Press on! 😉👍
This video helped me a lot. The part that really helped was having the resistance of the oil pressure sensor. Turned out when i bought a new Dorman one, it was bad. The original was still good. Should have only changed the oil/filter and the VVT gasket. Thanks Eric, you have helped me out more than once!
I wonder…
My mechanic said I have an issue with the vvt system. And that I need a new pressure sensor and vvt gasket.. bet it’s the same deal
Well this repair has certainly been and Odyssey! Heh, heh, heh... See what I did there? 'Cause the vehicle model is...
Um, I'll just go sit over there.
Well, you tried. Thumbs up for the effort!
The best VCM "muzzler" is the VCM Tuner 2.. The resister is automatic, no need for guessing or fiddling.
Either way changing the coolant temp output had no effect on the issue this van was having.
@@ericthecarguy But you had bad pressure switch to begin with though. Bad pressure switch + VCM muzzler = VCM muzzler is junk? That does not sound right. Then, you replace bad pressure switch and do not replace the muzzler = Muzzler did not do anything for me? I just do not understand your logic.
@Stranger Land Don't forget that I also had the PCM reflashed by Honda with the updates to avoid the issues the VCM causes. It's not like I didn't address the issue, I just didn't do it with the VCM muzzler. In my view, the van works as designed now. If you use the muzzler, your fuel economy will be compromised. I'd rather have the VCM and better fuel economy. In summary, the van is fixed. Just because I didn't fix it they way you thought I should does not change that fact. I personally don't feel the muzzler is the way to go.
@@strangerland9791 I do understand what he's saying. The muzzler cannot fix an issue with the mechanical VCM components, it's designed to stop VCM so the piston rings and spark plugs can recover. And so he had to actually fix that. At this point, the muzzler would just be for preventing VCM issues, and Eric has already said he's not interested in that. The VCM version 1 engine in this 05 isn't quite as problematic as the VCM-2 engine present in 2008-17 Odysseys anyway, even though VCM as a concept is still flawed. The VCM in VCM1 engines doesn't engage as much as VCM-2 does in normal driving to cause a problem, because there are fewer situations where 3 cylinders is enough power than there are where 4 cylinders is enough power.
@@ericthecarguy
My service advisor at Honda (a former service tech) said that there were no updates for the 2005 Odyssey's engine/transmission ECU/PCM.. Any reflash should have been to original factory spec only.
The best reason to use a VCM disabler is to prevent spark plug fouling, oil consumption, premature active engine mount failure etc.. Pretty much every VCM disabler is flawed by needing to adjust the resister depending on seasonal temps etc, even the VCM Tuner 1... but the VCM Tuner 2 automatically adjusts itself. It can even be set to give an audible alarm if coolant temp is too hot, and can be wired with a toggle switch to activate and deactivate the muzzler from the driver's seat (e.g. deactivate muzzler in town. activate it on the highway)
The muzzler that you got was probably going to create issues anyway, especially if the van's recipient didn't know how to adjust the resistor... but if "ECO" was still engaging with it muzzled, then the resistor was not set "properly".
Very informative and interesting episode. Always a pleasure to watch on a Friday morning.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
This van makes me appreciate my very simple and extremely reliable 97’ Odyssey
So I learned that paper towel with the nut in a socket trick from Eric a long time ago and it has been one of the greatest tricks to pass on to others. Thanks Eric.
Great episode Eric. And thank you for pointing out that I'm not the only mechanic on the planet that has similar issues.
We had a 2009 Honda Odyssey Touring with the VCM...and Honda ended up replacing the VCM cylinder piston rings as the spark plugs were getting fouled...and we were using about a quart of oil every 3,000 miles. I thought about getting a VCM muzzler but was concerned about the unintended consequences of using it. The piston ring upgrade did improve mpg and reduced oil consumption by about half...but I'm still not sold on the technology. Of course, my wife loves the Odyssey and traded the 09 for a 2017 Touring Elite....and so far it doesn't seem to consume oil.
It's one of those fixes that just makes you happy it's fixed even though not sure what was the exact fix to the problem. Great stuff Eric👍👍👍
I see this all too often. Someone has a older car, namely Honda, and it begins to have issues. Owner gets "mechanic" to look at it. Good factory parts that almost never go bad, are replaced without needing to be. And replaced with junk parts, then the car still has a issue, ends up sold for junk. A vicious cycle
@@bizbot1655 You don't know much about vehicles whatsoever. And don't try to argue, you just posted proof you don't have the slightest clue what you are talking about on the internet for the entire internet to see...
You shouldn't talk on subjects you know nothing about....
an* issue
Good point, ,many hondas with just a bad pgm-fi relay get a new fuel pump when its jsut a 20.00 part
I just picked up an Accord at auction, primarily serviced by a independent garage. It went into limp mode, throwing many codes for ABS/VSA, check engine light for ECM failure and mass airflow. I changed out the mass air flow with a known good oem part and it was fixed. I got a $20 junk yard oem part.
@@midwestfarm757 This is common on many cars not just Hondas. Non-OEM MAF sensors often do not meet specs and do not work. Even thought the OEM part is more expensive do not substitute aftermarket sensors.
It was the new o ring on the sensor that fixed it. It prevented the loss of pressure. Great job on the video it was very helpful.
Slather on white GOOP waterless hand cleaner (not citrus or pumice)
all over that dash, around vents, knee bolsters, etc. Wait >1 hour,
wipe off with absorbent paper towels. Grime is lifted out, lanolin
softens the vinyl, helps stop cracking.
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to try that.
I love how you didnt stop just to fix the annoying issue this car has. Good job man
Yes Eric, I do often like the challenge, even tho, when u can't figure out the problem, u have to walk away, and come back to it, the next day, when u r fresh! A few yrs ago, I installed a tilt column, in my 72 Cutlass Supreme. That job fought me, from the word go, and became an all summer job. But every time I get in/out of the car, I am thankful for the extra room, that the tilt column provides! I enjoy your videos. Thx, Clay
I got the same Odyssey and sometimes it’s a pain to get it right. Your persistence fixed this van. Good job brotha
Great vid Eric! My wife's 2011 Pilot had the same issue. 3 trips to the dealer to fix and there is also a TSB out on it! They had to replace oil sensors and clean out and replace the spool valve on the rear of the system that controls the Eco mode! TSB suggested switching from 5W20 to 0W20 also.
I thought it was "universally" recommended to move any "normal" 5W20 application to 0w20? Same viscosity at operating temp, just closer to such when cold. Unless one's racing and going above operating temp, everything I've read indicates that's the best thing to do for engine longevity.
@@ratdude747 Good question. I used to use the 5W20 when I changed the oil because that is what Honda recommended (owners manual and oil fill cap). Now since I had that issue I use the 0W20 per the TSB.
@@mitchgrossman7447there's a tsb about changing oil?
@@mnmurph if you had this issue Honda advised it be moved from 5w 20 to Ow20
I'm so excited after a 50 min video it's looking good! I'm especially excited that we get to me the wonderful deserving person that is in need of this van. A+
I shot the video yesterday. I hope to make it live next week.
Here's my theory:-
The original pressure switch is/was fine. The whole problem originally was the blocked screen.
When you fitted the new screen, you also fitted the (bad) new sensor.
Once you got back to the original sensor (with a clear screen), all was well.
Problem is there's something in the oil which blocks the screen. Eventually it will block enough for the problem to return unless you get whatever that is out of the oil somehow.
I believe the debris was from the engine flush I did in an earlier episode. Before I gave the van away yesterday I checked the screen again and it was clear. I plan to monitor the situation going forward. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy Cool that the screen remained clear now. If the error comes back, you know exactly where to look first :-)
If it does, I think I'd get some of the cheapest available oil and do 3 or 4 oil changes running it up to temp in between each one, then swap out the filter on the last one.
By the way, I've had the same deal with cheap coolant temp sensors for VW/Audi. The aftermarket ones are so much cheaper, it's worth trying a few to get a good one, but only if it's your car and you don't mind swapping them out a few times.
Well, you're definitely cementing my theory that Odysseys are what pay my bills. Love the diagnosis videos Eric, really reminds me of the old school videos. You're the reason I became a Honda tech!
How many 1999-2004 2005-2006 Ody transmissions have you replaced?lol
@@CRAPO2011 not a ton since when they're that old they don't come to the dealer much. I have replaced a few though
@@dylanandersen9318 ah yea, how are the 2011-2017 ody 6 speed auts do they fail here and there?? Just read that a few are having total failures on 2022 ody 10 speed autos.
@@CRAPO2011 can confirm about the 2022 10 speeds. Put one in with about 500 miles on it. The 6 speeds are the most reliable in the recent generations
@@dylanandersen9318 Quality control isnt too good lately, I think the 10 speed is Honda designed and not a ZF like the 9 speed
Drinking my morning tea and watchin eric, perfect combination !
Good to see Eric deal with the sorts of annoying electrical issues I feel us mortals usually have to deal with haha.
Use the muzzler to change the resistance of the Dorman oil pressure switch, :)
thank you for this diagnosis. my 2007 odyssey exl J35a7 (VCM1) 242k miles, started having issues with high oil consumption and filling up of cylinders. while it wasn't just the bank1 i had a valve cover gasket issue as well. in the end after getting that complete valve cover replacement and intake plenum, its been ok. then after a year or so oil consumption 2- 2.5qts per oil change and then I started feeling the in balances in the engine when it shutdowns 3 cylinders and go away after hitting gas. I decided to do a VCM Delete with S-VCM Controller. so far its good. going to change the oil and look at its oil consumption and fuel mpg. I would of never known about the "MUZZLERS" out there with out this video.
cheers
one of the most troublesome hondas ever made and you NAILED IT !! Great job Eric .. ENJOYED
Pro tip, antenna wires are easily repaired with small bnc connectors!
Tricky stuff when you can't put your finger on the exact fix.
🤞🏻 it stays good for the recipient! 👌🏻
So nice to see this Fixing it forward -series going on again :) Interesting fixes for this Odyssey, looking forward to see the giveaway episode. And of course, what might be the next vehicle to be fixed.
Sounds like things were gummed up and finally got loosened up. Probably needs another engine flush.
YES, Their shouldn't be that much junk on that screen in only 70 miles. You just know it's going to cause a problem for SIR ERIC when he hands over the keys. Those types of systems are a " PAIN IN THE ASS ". GREAT VID. & YOU ARE A GREAT HUMAN BEING, SIR ERIC.
We got a drive pro ES scan tool at the shop. They can remote flash anything. It’s been a life saver.
Glad to see that something you did fixed the problem! Also glad that replacing the PCM wasn’t on that list! That seems to be the go to for the local mechanics here whenever there is an issue that involves the PCM. Lol.
this format of videos is absolutely my favorite. #HaveFunStayDirty
vcm gasket, ive experienced the valve its self leaks and honda doesn't offer sandwich gasket, the pressure switches normally fail/leak , service bulletins out the ass. the cam end cap o-rings should be replaced at the same time the valve/gasket is replaced. pcv valve contributes to intake pollution, oil control rings love to freeze in the ringlands and after awhile kills rear converter. the excessive oil in combustion chamber fouls out plugs and throws fuel and oil from cyl into converter. I've seen people let the rings soak for a few days drain oil new plugs and prime new oil into system before restarting. I've performed countless piston ring jobs on odysseys, pilots, accord v6, ridgelines. replaced shortblocks on r19s because of coolant leak from a porous blocks, replaced pistons with new rings on k20-k24s even the tiny insight engines needed pistons. Ohh yea i cant forget about the high pressure power steering hoses that can really put a flame under your butt.
Excellent diagnostics - well done, Eric, and thank-you!
I have 06 Odyssey EXL w/A7 (IVtEC) engine. At 165k found metal shaving in oil. Discovered two con rod and one main bearing halves worn and the rear camshaft lobes badly pitted. Replaced all those parts. No luck 1000 miles later change oil and much more metal shavings. Tear engine down and discover other bearings wearing. So I pop for JDM 3.0 engine. Fits fine and runs great. Runs fine for a few days then experience what you seem to have gone thru with erratic idle, rpm does not reduce when you take foot off accelerator and VSA triangle warning light on. That warning light throws engine into limp mode that feels like it is going to explode. Codes P0507 (high idle) and P2279 (vacuum leak). So I change upper and lower intake manifold gaskets which were okay. Engine did not have vacuum leak. The engine computer was just guessing the cause of the high idle!!! Spend hours trying UT video fixes, like 3000 rpm for 10 minutes, etc. None worked. I even adjusted the valves which were actually pretty close to okay. Nothing worked until I got the right scanner.
Found UT video where guy used Foxwell NT510 scanner to fix it. That scanner is obsolete, NT-530 is replacement for $160. That scanner is car make specific. When you get it, you have to activate and upload Honda data before use. A bit tricky, but their customer service (Chinese) is fantastic to guide you thru. That scanner is fantastic. It is essentially a Honda HDS level scanner and it has special functions (bi-directional) for throttle and VSA reset. After resetting the throttle, you let the engine idle for 10 minutes. It cleared the VSA light easy. My Odyssey has not run this well in a long time.
I know you have the high end Bosch, but this scanner runs rings around yours. You need a dedicated Honda OEM scanner and this Foxwell is it. I also have a couple of other medium end scanners and they are worthless on Honda.
Given your Odyssey is an early 05 with 192k miles, that engine has got to be close to the end of its life. So do not discount it is just worn out. I would be suspicious what the rear cam lobes looked like.
Now isn't that weird? The NT510 is supposed to be obsolete but it costs $ 200 on Amazon. The "replacement" NT530 is selling for $ 170. There must be something different between the two. I do see where they call the NT510 a bi-directional scanner and don't mention that for the NT530. And I just see where there is an NT630 for $ 150. I've definitely got a lot more reading to do.
Worked great, thanks for the help. Saved me about $1K
Very interesting results with the muzzling device - on some forums, folks preach about those things like religious zealots! We didn't have vcm on our 05 odyssey (it was only on the fancy pants versions like the EX-L, and we just had an EX) and the engine still ran beautifully at 284k miles when we traded it in, but have it on our 16 SE and it works really well. I'm amazed at how well they manage the vibration with the active mounts - you can't even feel it when the engine transitions to or is running on a reduced cylinder count!
We have the muzzler on our 2013. Haven't seen the ECO light since it's been installed.
This engine blew up 3 weeks later. I like Hondas but VCM is a garbage idea so save a few mpg at the expense of long engine life and reliablity.
I would never use a Dorman part if I had any other choice.
In Erics defense. I wouldn't pay $200+ for a simple sensor just cause it says Honda.
I would never use your advice if i had any other choice cause you obviously don't know shit
@@osrr6422 there is a reason why it costs so much.
@@Kevin09210 yeah.... because people are so stupid and piss money
Those are shitty parts
Eric just a thought here maybe the PCM needs to see zero ohms when the system is activated. The aftermarket switch would never read that as you proved many times. Put the OEM switch in walla. So, like I do all the time, you were just chasing.
Main issue in my opinion is bad oil change maintenance before you got the Van. I have many Honda’s and the early versions of screen related transmission/engine oil filters were always issues. Key is to change oil on a regular (5k) interval and you don’t build up gunk.
Love your channel bro. Between you and Eric O from SMA I get my daily fix of learning.
I believe the debris was from the engine flush I did in an earlier episode. Before I gave the van away yesterday I checked the screen again and it was clear. I plan to monitor the situation going forward. Thanks for the comment.
Great work, Eric, as always
Glad you made the decision to deactivate the VCM Eric. Back when you introduced this van and all it’s issues I had commented with some advice and what I’ve experienced with the Honda 3.5 and the vcm causing so many issues. Hopefully the van lasts for some time now for the new lucky owner.
Edit: Well whoops guess I should’ve watched till the end before commenting. Nevertheless good on you for hanging in there and finding the fix, whatever that might have been lol.
Disabling the VCM did nothing to solve the issue, that was covered in the video. Also, the VCM is still active. Thanks for the comment.
Wow this one really presented a challenge.
Great video!!!!! Good work Eric be safe out there in the shop
Thank you!
You showed a lot more patience than I would have.
F it lets trade it in!
27:08 - I was about to comment this, but I assumed that you'd figure it out later in the video, and you did! 😅
AWESOME INFORMATION BROTHER ERIC THANKS FOR SHARING.
Yay muzzler! I truly don't believe you lose that much mpg. I've had a muzzler installed for 3 years. Zero problems and family trips still see decent gas mileage
I can't see how disabling a system designed to increase fuel economy nets you similar fuel economy. That would be a massive engineering waste on Hondas part if that were the case. I find that the people in the VCM muzzler crowd do a lot of justification of disabling the system. Not to say that Honda didn't have issues with it, just that I refuse to drink the VCM disabling koolaid. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy It's more about protecting your motor mounts (active ones = $$$), oil consumption, spark plug fouling and so on. The early implementation on the VCM was very herky-jerky. I'm telling you I still get very good gas mileage on an 05 with VCM disabled on long trips. The engine just seems to run better overall without VCM. The VCM was also in Honda's favor as they dodged CAFE fines from implementing this system so it's not all about netting the end user a little extra MPG. I would happily cut 1-2 MPG to avoid all the other issues VCM causes.
I have seen a few of these vans going down the road that would give a brief cloud of blue smoke. I bet that system is the cause.
I suspect you're probably correct.
Honda cracking the heads of all the technicians including me
finally someone else gets my cheap parts ahead of the game concept
I had a similar problem with the VTEC screen clogging up on my CRV. I ended up changing the oil 3 times within about 100 miles. I think it was because of a lot of dirt collecting around the dipstick tube on the K24 and me clumsily knocking it into the valve cover when checking the oil.
There is a second screen behind the belt pully tensioner, I would recommend replacing that screen as well or cleaning.
@@midwestfarm757 - actually, i did clean that one too, but it was difficult to get to, I think I had to remove the belt first. I only cleaned that one once.
Spool valve! Should change that spool valve 100% my wife's car needed that
Did you watch the entire video?
We have an Element and an Odyssey and most people in both communities that have replaced oil sensors found the cheap ones don’t work, and the expensive Honda ones do. Additionally, the ECO light simply tells the driver they are being economical. VCM will only engage if the ECO light is on, but the VCM actually can go on and off while the ECO light is on. There is a separate signal you can track for the VCM but it’s not indicated to the driver anywhere.
I believe you are incorrect in your understanding of the VCM system. There is no 'background' operation as far as I know. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy definitely possible. I don’t really understand the system itself, although on. One of the forums, a member identified the electrical signal that tells the engine to shut down the extra cylinders, and when you monitor that wire, the signal is not consistent with the eco light. IIRC, it was one of the wires coming off the back of the engine, but I can’t find the forum post now to confirm. Either way, I agree the VCM muzzler doesn’t seem to solve all the issues. I did find on the version I got, that it was causing CEL if I adjusted or installed it while the engine was warm at all. Idk if you might want to try putting the muzzler back on after the van sits overnight to cool down completely.
Is the ACM: "active cylinder management" or "active control mounts?"
J35A7 engines have special engine mounts to smooth out the NVH when VCM is active.
Love your Odyssey videos. Thank you
Recently installed a new passenger side transmission/axle seal in my son’s 2003 Accord. Had a choice to make. Drive 5 miles to Autozone and pick up $4.99 Dorman seal, or drive 50 miles to the nearest Honda dealer for the OEM seal for $14.95. Opted for the latter. No more leak!
I saw a lady in my town driving an Odyssey... She had a sticker on the back window that said Hotyssey. 😂
Boosted boyz have the Rowdyssey
Eric did you try putting the old pressure switch back in? maybe it was just the closed filter and the problem only came back cause of the cheaper switch?
edit: I finished watching and see that you did. lol good video man very engaging
I just spent the day deciding which VCM disabler to get. After reading the S-VCM website about how the resistor method is a poor choice and why, I narrowed my selection down to the S-VCM and the VCM Tuner II. Both have pros and cons and which one depends on what YOU want. I just ordered the S-VCM because it seems to keep the VCM system disabled ALL THE TIME and yet allow true coolant temperatures in case of an overheat in contrast to the VCM Tuner II which seems to have the VCM running some of the time. My eyes and brain were getting blurry from reading all the material. There were other considerations but you folks will have to read the two websites and evaluate for yourselves.
Great commitment and sometimes a hard issue you seem to fix is a great feeling. I don't think this vehicle was as bad, or expensive, as the old Town&Country van? But still had some kinks to work out for sure.
I had the same exact issue with my 08 Accord 2.4L and its P2646 code which was regarding my vtc solenoid (spool valve). I changed the whole assembly with a honda oem part ($120) that includes new gaskets, o ring and oil pressure switch (37250-PRB-A01). I also changed the oil to ensure the engine has fresh oil in it. After driving it for a bit when I pass 5000 rpm, I still had the same engine code and later on my code changed to P2647 when I started the car and was idling. That led me to believe that the pressure switch, which was already BRAND NEW from honda. I couldn't return it because it's an electronic part so i ended up buying a new oil pressure switch from eBay for $17 (not sure if it was oem or a counterfeit). The funny thing was, there are two different part numbers for the pressure switch and the one I got had on (and the one replaced) was a blue connector (Part no. 37250-PRB-A01) and I bought one with a black connector (part no. 37250-PNE-G01). The TSB for my car also mentioned to replace the sensor with the black connector and replace the PS with 37250-PRB-A01. And after 5,000 miles and a month of driving, I've had no issues whatsoever.
I know this is a long story but I wanted to throw this out there because I can understand Eric's frustration and confusion with the VCM. But I'm glad we both tackled the issue. Also shame on Honda for sending me a defective oem part and not honoring their return policy.
Also be sure you're running the recommended oil viscosity on the oil cap. I've seen many problems with VTEC caused by using the incorrect oil. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy Of course! I've always been doing 5000 mile regular oil changes on the driveway with 5w-20 synthetic Mobil1. The K24Z3 still runs strong with 211k miles on the odometer :))
My check engine light just tripped in my 2010 Honda Accord EX-L (VCM) I been heard so many bad things about this motor and wish I heard them before I purchased it but I still enjoy my car
Yes, 10 years of damage has already been done but that doesn't mean it's too late to put a muzzler on, just to reduce any further damage. I bought 2010 Accord coupe about 2 years ago and once I saw how bad some of the plugs were and then belated researched VCM issues, I got a Muzzler and it runs much better now.
@@daveclark8337 yeah sucks they don't ship to cali
@@Davis.Official VCMTuner II does ship to cali now
Yay! Eric the car guy!
ITS FRIDAY!
Good vid. I think the long term quality fix would be a new OEM VCM.
I agree.
no.... a long term quality fix would be a case cheap switches in the glove box
The quality fix is to delete VCM. It's not normal or good for the long term life of a engine to have one, two or three cylinders just shutting down and dead-legging the rest of the components. It's terrible a gimmick to increase MPG stats. Like rowing a boat and then 1 to 3 of your 5 crew members just keep randomly drop their oars.
Thanks for bringing FIF back.
Bro I’ve been watching you for years.. Just noticed I wasn’t subscribed to your channel. Unbelievable, I swore I was. Anyways, my deepest apologies!
Boy, Honda charges a lot for that pressure switch!
Probably a Denso or Koito switch though i hear believe it or not some electronics are ac delco in usa hondas
Great episode!
Hopefully the next one won't be such a headache
Looks the the VCM is expecting to have a very clean supply of pressurized engine oil, which makes sense as it is using the oil in a hydraulic (mechanical) spool based servo. Crap in the oil is going to be a problem long term unless whatever is putting junk into the oil is found and fixed.
I am guessing that this sensitivity to the oil purity is why they were so unreliable as time past and the engine got more miles on it...
Maybe a few low miles oil changes will make it work a bit longer.
Thanks for the going through the effort to do the experiments on the device. It's nice to know now how sensitive it is and how critical an accurate oil pressure sensor is to have.
Cheers,
I suspect that was a result of the engine flush that I did in an earlier episode. I checked the screen again before I gave the van away yesterday and it was clean. I will continue to monitor the situation though. Thanks for the comment.
My money would be on the engine flush pushing crap into that little screen also… great video
Thank you Eric always learning from you I am from a very sad South Africa
Wish you the best for peace very soon, many say the same thing is coming to Usa
@@CRAPO2011 I pray that you guys don’t experience what we are going through 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
@@vijayantgovender2045 Thanks for those kind words :) I will keep you and your country in my prayers
The world seems to be an uncertain place right now. I'm sorry for what you're going through.
@@ericthecarguy thank you Eric
Erik the beard guy. Hey man. The Original Douglas back to see
Chasing an issue like that can be incredibly frustrating. But you have to love modern cars these days. They become so incredibly complex just to try to save a tiny bit of fuel so that they are more 'green' but as a result become extremely unreliable and get totalled out and scrapped so much faster undoing any good that the gas savings might have done. Auto makers need to go back to KISS, keep it simple stupid. I would rather have a car that burns gas and will last for 2 decades rather then one that burns less but only lasts a few years. The EPA has pushed auto makers too far and have made it impossible to find a reliable car anymore.
Very intriguing problems and great video Eric very weird dosent make sense to me why when eco mode turns on the oil pressure sensor would drop to 0 psi tones of interesting problems in this video very intrigued 🤔 good episode @EricTheCarGuy
I used a vcm suppressor, DIpressor. But if I had found this I would have considered doing this instead. The vcm suppressor works, but is glitchy when temperatures change, especially in summer.
I think the old gasket not only had screen gunked, but also have internal leaks between the ports with small external leak. The new gasket seal up good on all the different ports of the solenoid assembly, hence the problem goes away with just a gasket replacement.
@EricTheCarGuy I had this exact same problem with an 07 odyssey never could figure it out. Ended up trading it in for a '12 instead after the timing belt broke. Thanks for such detailed videos!
Eric while watching the video you changed the gasket with a clean screen and the new pressure switch and no good. I was hoping you put the old pressure switch back on and no problem. Maybe a new seal and clean filter fixed it. Also they are very sensitively the correct oil which I’m sure you already know. I hope for your sake it’s fixed. You and your family stay safe and well Artie 🇺🇸☺️ Eric I would change the oil again. Just a thought 👍
I already flushed the engine in a previous episode. I believe that is the reason for the debris. I checked the screen again after giving the van away yesterday and it was not clogged at all. Thanks for the comments.
I had similar problems with knock sensors on a Toyota. New Toyota were close to $200 each. Aftermarket were $18. I learned after having to remove the intake manifold twice. I am surprised that you went for the aftermarket considering on your Element you went all Honda, and most of the parts were common replacement parts with quality aftermarket options at considerably less money.
Great point. I did that to mirror what my viewers might do. It worked out better than expected in making the point that OE parts are always preferable. Thanks for the comment.
Having VCM issues on a 2010 currently. It has the VCM on bank 1, just like this Odyssey, as well as on cylinder 4 on bank 2. I WISH the previous owner had installed a muzzler! Why? The piston rings have coked up with carbon and now It has random misfires. Requires new rings…. There WAS a recall for this, but this vehicle is out of that warranty date.
This happens because the oil gets drawn past the rings when VCM deactivates the cylinders for eco mode. On reactivation, that oil gets burnt and viola - rings eventually have issues
Nice! You’ve been MIA for some time. Good to see your video again
No I haven't, you just haven't been getting notifications. Be sure to click the bell! I've been posting weekly for years. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Thanks Eric 🤣👍
S-VCM is what I use to disable VCM, still getting about the same MPG. Car drives so much better with VCM off. Sure, I don't have the Odyssey but the Accord Coupe GEN8. Love these V6 Honda J-series! 40MPG or 17km/l at 55MPH or 90km/h. Mostly used at 6400 feet above sea-level with Mexican Gasoline.
Sorry, but I find it very hard to believe you're getting the same fuel economy as you did before disabling that system. You can't disable a system designed to increase fuel economy and expect it to get the same fuel economy, it just doesn't add up to me. Still, thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy , I do get *about the same MPG* (said it like that in the first comment too). Now tops 40MPG, before tops 42MPG. I had a Renault Megane II 2.0l 4 banger and it would do the same MPG tops. Honda engines are amazing when it comes to fuel consumption. Normally the Accord Coupe GEN8 does not show MPG so I installed a ODB2 Bluetooth adapter (a few for testing) to pair with an Android device and used different apps. On first I could not believe that the MPG was about the same either and was skeptical about disabling the VCM. What I like the most is not the MPG; it is the response of the whole VCM system that make these J-Series slower than they should be. No youtube video maker here else I would have made an in debt video about it.
If I would be living a few states away, I would invite you to test my car and see it yourself Eric. Love your videos, best Honda car related content! Your video of the timing belt swap helped me out a lot!
Very good job. My Pilot has that same system, wish it didn’t.
I HATE buying electronic aftermarket parts for my Civic. I've done it in the past and every single one of them failed in under a year. I went through 3 IACV's in about a year and a half, I finally gave in and bought the OEM one for 600 bucks.
For my piece of mind, id drop the pan, clean out what ever junk is obviously still in there, and change the filter a few times. My thought process is, if that crap is making it past the filter and getting caught in that screen, its also going through the oil pump and bearings.
I believe the debris is from an engine flush I did in an earlier episode. I checked the screen again yesterday before I gave the van away and it was clear. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks ETCG! My 2006 Odyssey has the same issue and I have been going nuts trying to figure it out. I replaced the Oil Pressure Sensor with an after market also and got it to drive out of limp mode but the engine light and VSA still come on. I will next replace the Solenoid and see if that fixes it.
Eric, try that little rechargeable ICON light from HF. Way better than it needs to be for $40 and totally changed working on my Odyssey this weekend.
Hopefully that lucky person lives nearby 👍
Perhaps that line loss could be due to the fact of a corroded connector or corroded wire into the connector pin because that additional voltage drop but I’m not sure without being there I have had several different vehicles with these phantom issues that I have went through and literally made it out each individual pin to the Said sensor To find any issue then proceeded to clean the pins very carefully and that seem to have solved the issue
Watch Wes Work had a similar issue with sensors recently when he found the cheaper part simply did not work right, even though it was new.
I had a deja Vu moment when Eric went to go test the resistance. Wes recently had an aftermarket part that had the pins too far recessed in or something.
@@The513Warning Yes! His last video on the 1986 Ford Ranger - @38:40 the aftermarket temp sensor had excessively recessed pins.