11-17 Honda Odyssey Failed J35Z8 Engine Teardown. Cheap Parts Can Cost MORE!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.ค. 2023
- Check out our website at www.Importapart.com or email us at importapartsales@gmail.com for parts and part inquiries.
I've been tearing down engines on camera for 2 and a half years! Search my channel to see what I've torn down.
Todays teardown is a J35Z8, the 3.5L V6 from a 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey. This is a core engine I picked up at a local salvage yard, which means someone replaced this engine with another used engine. While I do really like the J series engine design, some of these engines, equipped with VCM are quite problematic. This particular failure had little to do with the normal reasons these engines and instead due to the quality of the regular maintenance parts replaced.
Why on Saturn am I doing these teardowns? I own and run a full service auto salvage business in the Saint Louis area called Importapart. Part of our model is buying blown, core and unwanted engines and dismantling them to resell the good, usable parts. We do not rebuild engines, we merely supply parts to those who do.
I really hope you enjoyed this teardown. As always, I love all of the comments, feedback, and even the criticism. Catch you on the next one!
-Eric - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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"That wasn't tight, that wasn't tight... Someone has been in here." The story of my life. 😂
Yup. 😂
They aren't ever your engine it's just your turn.
Are you sure? Bet if we asked the women in question, they’d say “that’s not as stiff as I’d like it to be” was more applicable. 🤣
@@BecauseM3RacecarYou're never stiff enough after the football team is done with her.
Yeah, sorry about that brother lol
“Bad things are happening but it’s fine ” that’s literally my life motto 😂
I thought that was just Eric and myself. I'm sorry but good to know we're not alone lol.
I can agree.
My Dad used to say "If you don't think or talk about it, it will go away". The bedroom window had a water leak and that's exactly what happened. The wall went away, and the window fell out in a storm. Moral of the story, don't ignore those noises.
it did not sound like good advice
As soon as you popped those covers I knew what happened.. people of the comments section I'm going to give you some advice here quick. If you have a vehicles with a timing belt do not let anyone put on anything less that an original equipment tensioner! At the very least use an aisin timing belt set ( they're the o.e. for most Japanese vehicles) any of the cheaper sets have the most bargain basement made tensioner I've ever seen. The cheap tensioner scourge on the world started a few years ago. I've changed hundred of tensioner back to o.e. after some big wig decided that the an important part needed to be done super cheaply and sold for the most money.. yes aisin stuff is more expensive. But it's a hell of alot less expensive than an engine. Just putting this out there. Hope someone hears it and saves themselves a motor
Watch pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics with Ivan....HE HATES CRAPPY AFTER MARKET PARTS because way more often than not, they are inferior.
@mikefoehr235 alot of aftermarket parts are a crap shoot. But let's be honest most of them won't cost you an engine. Theres a time and place where taking a chance on a cheaper part could pay off/ not end up costing you a buttload of money. Timing belts and tensioner are definitely not that place !
10-4. Copy that.
I love those crank bolts. They make me want to work on Hondas 24/7
I only use oem or better. Also watch out for big brand names long associated with quality and make sure it's still made in Japan or USA. I'm not going to point fingers at any single company because they are probably all guilty of going with the lowest bid manufacturer to source their production.
Round of applause for Blue. Always in the game!
Yes, I vote Blue for employee of the month!
I call out "Oh Blue!" Now when I need something . 😂
I saw Blue on someone else's channel, but it was Red. Was probably Blue's distant cousin in Utah, lol....
Blue did a great job!
I gotta say, that engine stand has to be the best investment you've made on this channel so far...
You should get yourself a weighted harmonic balancer socket they help a lot on those Honda crank bolts
It still amazes me just how little a modern engine wears out a cylinder wall. When I took auto mechanics in the 80's, most of our engines came from the 70's. And every single one REQUIRED a ridge reamer to get those pistons out. And they only had about 100K miles by the time they made it to us. So still seeing cross hatching at 200K is an utter miracle to me.
Modern oils and lower tension piston rings putting less force on the bores I'd say is a big factor, plus some engines have fancy cylinder wall coatings.
My dad used to say the same thing.
@@Jakek200 fuel injection had a lot to do with far decreased top of bore wear as far back as 70s. 74 260Z with carbs would have ridges and FI 280z would fare much better at over 100k miles. Saw tje same on early 70s Volvo 4 cylinders that had FI option or carbs in the same year model. Lots of extra fuel from choke and overrich on initial throttle opening are not good for cylinder lubrication.
Honda has really good coated / hard metal/ piston walls. Plus as the other guy said the later stuff is better .
Same here
In all honesty, I was a bit sad you didn’t have to get out the loader😢
As the owner of a 2014 Odyssey, I find myself compulsively buying a new hydraulic tensioner as I watch this video. Thank you, Eric, for a very educational edition. You may have saved another Odyssey engine tonight.
buy oem tensioners only. the aftermarkets are junk just like the one in the video. a genuine honda tensioner has a light brown hue to it.
@@MrGamerholic I'm cancelling my tensioner two pack for $49.99 special from Amazon right now.
Get that Muzzler and save your motor. I am glad I put one on mine
@@MrGamerholicThe tensioner in the Aisin kit is identical to OEM. Same stampings, same everything. With that said my 7.5 year old OEM tensioner with 65k miles was leak and going bad so even the OEM ones can be suspect.
@@williammogey1829 And get RID of the cylinder deactivation. They sucked in the 80's and they suck now.
My niece has one of these, I deactivated the cylinder delete mechanism at 160,000 miles, I hope I wasn't too late.
Thanks for the teardown video. 👍
I really love the 4th gen Odysseys but this is what I'm worried about as well since the average Joe are usually not aware about the VCM errors.
Currently have a 3rd Gen Odyssey and did plan to buy a pre-facelift 4th gen Ody but might just get another 3rd Gen non-VCM Ody when the time comes for mine...or I get into an accident and I survive lol
It's pretty sad that the engine as a whole looks very well taken care of.
I mean, not really, as a whole it looks “fine” but by the amount of varnish in the front cover and the head with the PCV, it was the typical mom mobile getting the oil changed when the gauge cluster told her to. Looks like the typical 10k mile oil change “dealer maintained” special.
@@jtoddk98 I've never seen any 200k engine with less varnish. I'm not saying they were great at maintaining their engine, just that they didn't do too bad. :)
Look at the enside of the engine. Someone didn't replace their oil every 5k miles
@jtoddk98 that's a 200k mile engine with basically perfect bearings in it. There was 0 sludge only some discoloration.... it would take another 200k miles before any of thay added up to anything that would ever cause an issue. Sure could they have changed it more... yes, would it have really made a difference.... not really. There's a fine line between going overboard with oil changes with no benefit, and letting an engine self destruct from neglect. I think that this engine/owner did a good job of keeping the engine alive and not wasting a bunch of money on oil changes too early.
@markmonroe7330 that's true as well. However the pcv design plays a role in some of these engines too. There wasn't any buildup on that engine just some discoloration. They took care of that one. 200k with no buildup is good! It's too bad the cheap tensioner took that sucker out
For anyone interested on why the valve train looks like it does.
Usually J-Series used to have VTEC Only on the Intake side, this meant that the VTEC rockers only had to activate on the intake which could get away with a 3 bearing rockers setup on the intake and 1 in a Y shape for both Exhaust valves.. Later on Honda designed Dual VTEC on the J-Series which also adds Exhaust VTEC, This meant the exhaust should also need a 3rd bearing rocker but there wasnt any room to spare in the valvetrain.. So what Honda did was to create a vertical rocker arm setting that could lock the exhaust VTEC actuator as well on 2 separate rockers. So in the end:
The camshaft has 6 lobes for each cylinder and only the 2 middles lobes share 2 valves at the same time.
The outer ones are for exhaust in normal running lift, The ones beside them are the VTEC exhaust lobes, The 2 middle ones are the normal Intake lobe and the big one next to it is the VTEC intake lobe.. Camshaft lobes setup: (Ex, VEx, In, VIn, VEx, Ex) V = VTEC. Ex = Exhaust, In = Intake.
By the looks of the camshaft lobes this engine never saw lots of VTEC action.
This engine actually does not have VTEC (none of the VCM-2 engines do). The engines with exhaust VTEC came later in the J35Y era. What you see is one activated lobe for intake and exhaust and then blank lobes for cylinder deactivation.
As always, your teardown videos are very entertaining and educational. As for that core, it's sad that because of that one "small" part, all was ruined. Never go cheap. And check your oil, as usual.
The Honda crank pulley bolts are genius. I don't know where the torque comes from, but I struggled with them in my "former life" until I almost lost my mind over them. Even though I had the hex tool to hold the pulley in place , it was still almost impossible to loosen the bolts. I was afraid of breaking the breaker bars and hurting myself as a result.... 😂
Just checked my oil, it's max and very clear, or, clean! I can do oil-changes myself, and after 50 vids of you, I will change it every 6 months now, it's quite cheap 10-40 (That's what my car wants), and a original VOLVO filter costs less than 10$€ at the moment, bought 10 :D
Thanks for the great entertainment, and yes, it is!
I am the catalog manager at GMB.
Thanks for the kind comments regarding the water pump! We do try to sell decent stuff even tho it's aftermarket and not OEM!
I worked in a Honda parts dept for 12 years (Nov '09 through Apr '22) and I lost count of how many J35s with variable displacement had ring jobs on the rear bank, and the PCM reflashed to alter the cylinder deactivation. Also, there's a tool to hold the crank pulley while you remove the bolt. They sell it at Napa, and it's not that expensive.
My dealer told me they couldn't change the computer... you're telling me that they can! I just leave my gas cap unscrewed a little... the VCM won't engage if the Check Engine light is on. Cheap muzzler!
@@scowell
🤔🤓
You could also just use the weighted socket designed for these and a big impact, havent had it not work
@@scowellGood jawn.
@@scowell... or unplug the solenoid valve !!
When these engines run well they have plenty of torque to run below 2500.RPM that is if they don't have "lean misfires" from old lambdas
I have an accord with VCM. turned it off. Best decision ever. Car now drives like a car, doesn't lurch, doesn't hunt for gears, etc.
Is the way to turn off the VCM by unplugging the rear oil pressure switch or is there a catch to buy something that will make it actually work.?
@@nunecoco2349 you have to buy a vcm muzzler that plugs in where you're mentioning and that will provide resistance that will prevent the cylinder management system from turning on.
I have had multiple Honda crank bolts give me hell, watching you struggle made me feel a little better!
Only manufacturers to use for Honda Timing components are Aisin, Bando, GMB, Gates, Mitsuboshi or SKP. All have their branding marks and all will hold up.
From my own lengthy research, I totally agree. 🤔😬
I didn't know it was possible to bend so many valves in one engine,WOW!
The engine was wound up high...then wham😅😅
Just this year I installed a VCM Tuner II on my Accord V6 at 100k. Not only does it prevent the spark plug fouling and oil consumption but the engine runs completely smooth now. The effect on gas mileage is barely noticeable. It is a very worthwhile investment.
@@xabhax moron, there is a difference between running on 6 and 3 cylinders. If you owned one you would know . The engine has been getting full synthetic oil changes every 5k since I bought it at 45k and has zero oil consuption or noise.
What year is your accord? I have a 2017 Accord V6 and it has the 3rd Gen VCM which is supposed to be better then the previous ones.
@@cherryswirlchale9511 It’s a 2013 and I believe its the same vcm version as the 2017.
Can you link me? I bought the S-VCM, but heard some people don't like that version
I have a ‘14 Odyssey, which I drove on a 2,500 mile road trip, from my California home to Illinois, very early in its life. The mpg. for the trip was a carefully calculated 25.4. My return trip, after installing the “Muzzler”, traveling the same route came up at 25.4 mpg. I know that varying conditions can cause such a comparison to be questionable, but, with the same driver, over the same roads, at the same speeds it would seem to be the best possible test a layman could perform. I have never regretted “muzzling” my engine.
Who knew - watching your videos is more than just entertainment. I have a 2015 Honda Pilot with 100,000 miles and now I know to not get an aftermarket timing belt tensioner when I get the timing belt done. Thanks.
Get yourself a VCM disable device too.
I’d be careful about a belt from eBay or Amazon as well.
@@midwestfarm757 Yep. There is no such thing as a Honda timing belt kit, anything advertised as a Genuine Honda kit is counterfeit.
@wiimaster2847 Facts. I went to Acura and got mine all parts cost Me around $500
I always had my Acura serviced at the dealer. When TB schedule came up, they did the job... great or so I thought...
At 150kMi, the tensioner started rattling
- I ask them how can this go bad so shortly ??
To my surprise: ACURA DEALER SIMPLY REPLACED *BELT ONLY*... no new water pump and no new tensioner.
Just a lot of high labor with only one part.
Needless to say the oil pump seals are leaking too... 185kMi. 😊
My Saturday evening is now complete: An I Do Cars teardown before bedtime!
I see also the videos of Eric for bedtime. It's now 3.54 AM in Zwolle, the Netherlands😂
I think I might have been lucky. My 2015 Pilot has VCM, but it never gave me any trouble and has had zero oil consumption. When I did the 100,000 mile service the spark plugs looked great. I did put in an S-VCM disabler about that time, and it's nicer not having those occasional shudders.
I think the VCM issue is much less common than it's presented - not to say it doesn't exist. If it really was that big of a deal, you'd see Honda engines blowing up like Kia/Hyundai on the regular and that's just not that case.
I worked for a Honda dealer back in the mid '90s. The crank bolts were always so tight that we got into the habit of putting a breaker bar on it and bracing it against the frame then using the starter to break it loose.
I approve! My hardest crank bolts yet were a d16y7 & a d17.
Someone needs to get this boy a Honda crank bolt socket. Ive never had to struggle as a Honda tech with a single crank bolt with a $30 thicc boi crank bolt socket.....
And maybe also a crank pulley holder.
Did one recently on a ridgeline. My electric wrench couldn’t do it but my buddies air tool took it off no problem.
Deja vu for me on crank pulley bolt as well. No impact wrench worked. Finally had to heat the bolt with a torch. Only then could I get the bolt loosened with a breaker bar plus a five foot fence post over the handle.
I had one that was so stuck that it stalled out the starter
This video made me laugh so hard, I just replaced the timing belt and water pump on my wife's Honda Pilot with this engine and what was a 6 hour job turned into a 12 hour job as I struggled with the crank bolt. I tried so many things and broke several tools but in the end it was a 3/4" pneumatic impact + lots of heat that broke it loose. Also I am now glad I replaced the timing belt tensioner and used OEM parts.
Champagne, edibles and a tear down. Living my best life tonight 😅😂
I'll say. Never seen that combo together before.
Well done.
I look forward to these tear downs. Much can be learned by seeing what failed. Thanks for putting these shows out!!!
I have been up on the mountain for the last 4 days and this is the first video I watched. Thanks Eric. Love your stuff.
FYI, Your teardowns are awesome. Gives me something decent to watch on a Saturday night. Thanks.👍
Hey. Thank you for the learning experience. I love that tear down on the J series motor. Their is a lot to learn even if you work on these every day. Thank you.
An excellent tear down and analysis of the failure sir! That is the very best set of bent valves I've ever seen!
That was an interesting tear-down. I hope you enjoy doing the tear-downs as much as we enjoy watching them. I can almost smell the burnt oil odor, but I'm glad that after more than 50 years of wrenching, I don't have to do that stuff any more. I kind of miss the fun times, but not the other stuff.
yeah, man! what I've been waiting for....another tear down!
Awesome vid sir - really dramatically shows both the failed hydraulic tensioner and resultant chaos but also the result of the Honda "Variable Cylinder Management" system.
Crank bolt was definitely giving me LandCruiser vibes too. Glad you got away with a little less effort this time ;)
Thanks as always for your videos, I've never been bored once watching your content. :)
I love this channel, never change. :)
Those are pretty much indestructible. I had the prior version in an Acura. I had a coolant hose fail in the middle of nowhere, with no cell service, so I drove it dry for about ten miles into town. I made it to a mechanic just fine. The temperature gauge was pegged, of course, and it had around 160K miles on it at the time. He waited an hour for it to cool down enough to work on, replaced the hose and coolant, and I was on my way with no problem. I put another 30K on it before the transmission started to go and I got rid of it.
While waiting for the engine to cool, the mechanic asked me if I knew the ramifications of driving it in that condition and asked why I didn't call for a tow. I explained that it was an older car without much resale value, I wasn't in a position to get a tow truck as I had no means to contact one, and that my wife and I had three newer cars (so, it was just a spare by then). Still, I didn't want to destroy a perfectly fine engine and was glad it was good.
Love watching. thanks Eric. Keep ‘‘em coming
I love this channel already. First time new sub.
Educational and informative. Liking these videos with your explanation on what caused the failure.
I’ve heard so much noise from J-series timing belt tensioners and they will end up beating up the timing belt adjuster. But I’ve never seen one with the rod recessed and seized deep into the tensioner body like that!
Thanks Eric! Your videos are consistently entertaining and informative.
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Found your channel a week ago & been hooked ever since. I only have 2x E46 sedans and I dream of your collection
Also they make a tool to fit right into that 6 point head on the front of the crank pulley. If you're not worried about the crank seal you can use heat and it comes off like a dream.
Yes another tear down 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯love this 🔥
Another great video! Thanks for sharing... 😊
Super useful information as I own one of these without a muzzler and also a looming timing belt/water pump replacement. Thanks so much!
Thanks, Eric, for another informative autopsy! My neighbor had an early Honda Civic, the engine pully end faced the Left and it ran counterclockwise? We could not work out if the pulley bolt was Lefthand thread or not. But I can tell you that bolt was tight we could not budge it. The belt had failed and damaged all the pistons. Just 2 things I noticed with your motor tonight, a 6 sided socket will go on with the handle either too high or too low to get a good swing, remove the socket, turn it a quarter turn and it will all be OK. Next, the pulley had a hexagon area and I guess Mr Honda had some sort of Torque multiplier to fit in there and torque that bolt up so tight. Good on you for fitting that plate onto a flywheel bolt, I was expecting to find a broken crankshaft. Tim from down under.
I’ve replaced ~20 Honda/Acura J-series timing belts, their crankshaft pulley bolts are the tightest fasteners I’ve ever come across. A crankshaft pulley holder and 6’ breaker bar work well to getting it loosened. Thank goodness for Craftsman lifetime warranty, as I’ve also broken a few sockets and couple ratchets as well.
Very interesting teardown. I also had an engine damaged by a cheap timing part: a timing belt idler (fitted by a shop which should have known better) on a 300Tdi Land Rover engine (4 cylinder diesel). It seized after about 50 miles and shredded the timing belt. Thankfully the engine is a pushrod design so the damage was taken by the pushrods, rocker shaft and a couple of rockers, which was easy to repair. No bent valves. OEM timing parts only for me after that!
I have a J35A5 in my '05 MDX. Lessons learnt. Also happy to see the drift come back.
First time watcher, nice vid and nice shop
Always love your valve removal technique, think I'm going to try it on a destroyed head tomorrow!
There's the right way, then there's the fast way, it's already broke so why not use the fast way
Enjoy ur channel sir, keep up the good awesome content!!
I learned my lesson the hard way I bought a cccp timing kit on a 37 Acura….. broke three weeks later after I sold the car then I spent $3000 fixing the car for the person that I sold it to…. The pulley of the water pump literally snapped off from bad casting. The pulley was not designed to be removed.😂😂😂 I don’t like steelership parts, but there are certain ones that I will buy.
Another great video, just goes to show how aftermarket parts can hurt, or just ignore an unusual noise.
As you were saying "I suggest you do two things" I was screaming "DO THE DELETE KIT" So thanks for bringing attention to this issue.
Very interesting and entertaining video. Our 07 Odyssey has the VCM system and I decided not to muzzle it. It has had careful maintenance since new though. Engine still run great and uses no oil at 286,000 miles.
I'm preparing to do the timing belt/water pump on my J35, thankfully mine didn't come with VCM. Love your vids on this engine family
I bought a 2014 Accord with V6 and VCM. It had 52,000 miles. I put on S-VCM muzzler and have had no issues. As long as you muzzle the VCM the J35 is usually very reliable and can easily go over 200,000 miles with normal maintenance.
@@xabhax Read a little more on the VCM. Because 3 cylinders shut down while cruising there are different temperatures in the cylinders causing oil consumption after about 50,000. The switching between 3 and 6 cylinders also causes the front mounts to wear out a lot faster. This is from people who swore they changed their oil every 5,000. It was a concept that sounded good on paper (CAFE points) but a horrible idea in practice.
I use BG 109 EPR every 100K mi. instead. I'm at 250K on an '08 Pilot
I saw a ‘14 accord coupe v6 six speed with only 66 thousand kms on it at a Honda dealer here in BC this summer. Was going to trade my ‘14 Civic and pay extra to buy it but it got sold before I could get there,shame because it was a really nice car and it doesn’t have VCM because it’s a standard transmission. 😊
@@Whateva67 that would have been a nice buy. Nothing like a naturally aspirated V6. They can keep those turbos.
@@brentbeardsley655 yeah, it was mint, nice blue colour, leather interior and damn near mint shape and that 6 speed would have been sweet, oh well,I’ll keep looking.
Great videos. I hope they are getting your Porsche fixed the right way for you. I would still like to see you tear down a 1.8 like came in a 2016 Chevy Sonic. The other engine I would like to see you tear down is the 2.4 turbocharged SRT4 out of a 2003 PT Cruiser GT. It has the aluminum intake manifold on it, and not the cheaper plastic one they replaced it with in the other years. Keep up the great work.
Good advice, thanks Eric.
It sounds like how my sister lost an Astra GTE convertible (2 litre 4 pot, 80s car). It had a timing belt change, apparently from a certified mechanic. Possibly certifiable in something different because the timing failed not long after and the engine went boom.
Been enjoying your videos ! Loving the style, looking forwards to seeing more. Am learning ...
That happened to my wife's Astra.
It had been well serviced before we got it, and I wanted to keep it in good nick.
I took it to get the timing belt replaced, they did the timing belt but not the tensioner.
It went on the M3, and suddenly lost all power.
It was never quite the same again.
Certified nut case
Belts can fail, or the cam or idler gears can wear in some designs making it off kilter, so a replacement gets eaten up quick.
You ALWAYS do a timing belt, tensionar and usually water pump at the same time. I would sue a mechanic who neglected to do that.
Great show
Another great video, thank you
I think part of the reason my '98 BMW 328i has gotten to 208k miles is that I always replace critical components with OE parts; not necessarily "official BMW parts" but the same part made by the same manufacturer for 1/3 the price. I never have to worry about part quality or function that way, and it still runs like new.
Same with my Explorers, for any engine or electrical components Motorcraft is far beyond any aftermarket stuff.
Some aftermarket parts are OK, but as you mention, look at the cost/benefit/risk associated. The higher the risk goes, the more you need to move towards OE or at least something that's been proven over time.
Excellent video, as always.
Thank you Eric!
No loader today! Brought a smile to my face!
The greatest engine tear down of all time. A Koinsweigg Jesko. Hooraah, Theo.
Good morning to you Eric!
interesting teardown. thanks
Best comedy show online at the moment, thank you for all the laughs 😂😂
Yup, had this one happened. Engine was rattling when it gets warmed up. thought the engine was done. Hydraulic fluid was leaking out of tensioner, can be seen outside the cover. and belt was cracked. Customer never changed it after 200k miles. Did a whole timing kit job and it’s back to normal.
That's really good news to hear that even after 200K you were able to save that engine!! Very cool!
Seeing the struggle with the harmonic balancer bolt, i was all excited about the dipstick tube.
I feel robbed
🎉🎉🎉Makes my Saturday Better!!
i love your improvised tools! I use momentum power socket to remove crankshaft bolt for timing job
The fact you switches to your right angle rachet after getting the crank bolt loose was hilarious to me! 😂
I bought my Odyssey used, but the original tensioner failed. The previous owner took it to Honda and had it replaced. Then at 80,000 miles they had the timing belt service done. 40,000 miles later, with me having bought the car, the OEM tensioner failed again with the infamous knocking sound when cold. So I'm not sold on the OEM hydraulic tensioner at all. I just replaced with AISIN and so far, so good.
"What's the worst that could happen?" Famous last words, friends.
Always use OEM on timing systems...That's my motto... Doesn't matter how much it costs...if something fails it's always going to cost you big. Also use the best quality oils you can afford...full synthetic every time for me.
Awesome vid Eric, shame such a cheap part failed to end this engines life.
As always another great video and these comments hilarious, thanks for the laughs.
I bought a really nice Accord with a J30 and bent valves from a shredded timing belt for $800. Pulled the heads off in the car and popped on some good junkyard units and the car runs beautifully. I've put about 25,000 miles on it since then. Those dings in the pistons are fine. No issues.
Eric fighting with the crank bolt instead of dip stick is funny.
I bought my VCM Muzzler on my 2011 Odyssey and haven't had any issues since we've owned it at 60k kms. It now has 190k kms and runs perfectly. I do oil changes every 5000 kms and change the tranny fluid and air filter every year and change the plugs every 25k kms. Engine is perfect. All of this might be overkill but I know the engine is healthy and runs perfectly.
At least this time we saw how the bottom of the engine and the pistons looks like my regards frome Greece thanks Eric
"Bent valve display holder" love it 👍🔥
Not sure if you'd want to use this trick on a modern engine, but I had a buddy back in the day who owned a really good engine rebuild shop here in Ottawa, Canada. His specialty was mostly 1960s and 1970s musclecar engines. Crankshaft pulley bolt won't come off? He told me a trick: Fill the cylinders on the upstroke with soft and clean string! It has worked like a charm every time I have needed to do it - Pontiac 2.5L Iron Duke, several Mopar Slant-6 engines, Chevy Smallblocks, heck, even just to get the blade off my lawnmower.
Basically it hydro-locks the engine even on cylinders with the valves open and the spark plugs out. Once the crank bolt is free, just pull the string back out and you're good to go. It's great if you're trying to change the timing chain in the car but can't stop the engine from rotating any other way.
Thats the old rope trick. Just gotta do one cyl usually. Also works to keep from dropping a valve when doing wrok with the head on.
Very topical. Just got an '08 pilot. 1st gen-no VCM. 185k/mi as well. Thanks as always for the education, Eric!
The 06-08 Pilots did have VCM, just only on the 2WD models, not the 4WD models.
@@wiimaster2847 Thanks for the clarification. My first J35Z1
Was working on a Hyundai and the shop kept getting aftermarket tensioner kits. Cloyes parts are usually okay, but for some reason the original, worn out, tensioner still felt better than the new Cloyes'. Contacted dealership and they told us they used a different tensioner depending on trim level. Got the dealership part in and viola. That said, I've had dealership parts that are DOA and the aftermarket does try to make improvements on original designs so YMMV
The last few generations didn't grow up wrenching on cars as kids to keep our junkers running. Then you quickly found out about no oil in the engine it blows up. Sets you up for fastidious oil inspection later in life which really pays off. I check the oil in my cars every few days. Never let it get below the full line. Never have any engine issues. And buy a 3/4 inch EMT pipe at Lowes for breaker bar extender. Sold in 10 ft lengths so bring a hacksaw to cut it in half. I keep a 5 foot long piece in the trunks of my cars if i get a flat. very handy.
If you decide to do another J series V6, the Acura MDX version would be interesting to see. I bought one recently and am figuring out all the little things Im gonna do from oil, VCM muzzler, transmission fluid, tensioner, possibly another belt job etc etc. Thanks for this stuff man, its entertaining and super helpful as usual.
That crank bolt situation was way too familiar. I did my first timing belt job ever on a J30 in my Accord last summer and WOW was it on there!
Dude, you ought to be hosting a standup show, so funny watching you fighting with the dead block🤣
Caught the tensioner making noise one night as we were driving home. Parked the van immediately and did the timing belt 12,000 miles ahead of schedule. Approaching time for the 5th timing belt on my J35.
I've have one of those engines in a 2011 Honda Pilot. The VCM system needs good detergent gas or fuel additive to combat carbon and varnish build up or the rings can stick and then it uses oil. I haven't disabled the VCM yet, but am paying close attention to it. Oh and pistons 1-4 get deactivated. Pistons 1-3 are on the back bank. Piston 1 is on the far left when you are standing at the front of the car.
Honda gave my uncle 3 free plugs once for the VCM issue on his 08 Accord. Thanks Honda. It has over 240K miles on it now with the VCM Muzzler I put on it a couple of years ago.
Honda redefined their VCM systems around the 2010's. The early stuff ~(2005-2011) is where most VCM issues resulted from - and it was around 2011 (for the next gen/facelifted, Odyssey, Pilot, and Ridgeline) when things were improved, and those engines once again could easily be pushed past 300k miles.
You're correct. The '13-'17 Accord J35Y1 engines had the revised VCM that eliminated the issues. My '15 J35Y1 hasn't had a single issue. Proper and early 5k maintenance helps, too. I love this engine.
The VCM-2 engines all have issues. Odysseys had issues throughout 11-17. With VCM-3 on the new J35Y engines, they figured out how to mask the symptoms well enough but it still operates exactly the same conceptually with no change to the conceptual flaw that was causing issues.
My cousin has had two vans ‘11 and ‘16 fail. Friend has a ‘16 and it failed as well. I believe they do a lot of city driving, more than normal so I wonder if that makes the issue worse
@@timothyforce1949 Agree completely. Have a '13 Accord V6 @135K ... burns no oil and runs like new. Timely oil changes and the correct oil.