We just did my friends mustang. Xs power capacitor with a power and ground. We also added 1/0 from alternator power to battery with a fuse. We also added 1/0 grounds to the alternator. One to the frame one to the battery. Car is running a sundown salt 2, 2k watts to a resilient platinum 12. 138db in a drop top😎
I’m glad i found this channel!! I just got 2 10s subwoofer by Rockford fosgate P1 And Rockford amp and 4 channel amp Door speakers and it was so trash didn’t sound good but now thanks to you guys it sounds better. I’m a subscriber now ✅
Sorry you half way right bud 👍 i did all what you said and still had issues. You do a big 3 please please add a battery!!Taramps amplifier. My lights still dimmed with a 350 amp alt. I'm really surprised you didn't tell folks to add another battery😂😂
I brought my high power 290 amp alternator, I'm doing big 3 zero, but I don't know what to get battery wise??? Front and back battery??? Running 1 down4sound jp95 1500 watts, and a down4sound jp33 3300 watts.
Just got a Skar amp for my 2021 Chevy Spark. The lights dim when parked but don't think the car is capable of the big 3 upgrade. Looked online and no info about upgrading on the car.
I have , dual 12" rockford fosgate p3 12 loaded enclosure , with a rockford r2-1200x1 amp , but im still dimming , i was told this was a good amp on power consumption ??? Plus my head unit is the jvc KW-Z1000W
Altnator on “”newer”” cars should be 120-160 amps i power a 6k amp with 2 15s with no charge issues. Have only peaked around 4000watts but no issues ever on stock wiring
@@igamefordays9471 How much agm you got? I get about 1000 watts at 10 volts with no continuous drop. I don’t believe Im getting my full alternator output because by battery is cheapest of the cheap and small with high resistance.
I have a 370 high output alternator(with big 3 upgrade), dual battery upgrade ( genius off-road kit), but my lights still flicker when my music is turn up. I have a T2500 powering four 8s wired with 0 gauge and a 500 watt Rockford amp powering the other components. What do I need to do?
Keep in mind the alternator is only throwing out rated output at around 3000ish engine rpm. Not idle rpm which is around 600 to 800 rpm. Its only putting out around a third of its full rated output at idle. Adding an additional battery back by your amps would help to a point but its still more of a band aid type fix. With an alternator that large I would do a big 4 upgrade. Run a 1/0 OFC ground cable directly from the case of the alternator to the negative side of your battery along with your primary engine ground which is usually attached to 1 of the mounting bolts on your starter motor. Also get yourself a wire wheel for a cordless drill and make sure you have nice shiny metal underneath the cable lugs. Any kind of scale etc needs to be removed along with any paint or rust. This is extremely important. Then once you get everything attached tightly take a can of Rust Oleum.spray paint and spray the lugs and panels their to help corrosion out. Also I really hope you didn't use CCA cable copper claded aluminum . You should use OFC Oxygen free copper. OFC is significantly better than CCA. CCA is cheap for a very good reason. Don't use it expeacially on an amp that big. Because you do run the risk of blowing that amp. CCA with get soft with temperature changes causing loose connections down the road it also corrodes insanely fast. You might need to change your battery out with an AGM battery as they can charge and discharge alot faster than a conventional flooded car battery. Also as batteries age the internal resistance inside the battery increases meaning it takes longer for it to absorb current from the alternator. So again it might be time for a new battery. Among other things but thats where I'd start.
It depends on your existing power supply. If you're in a newer vehicle and running less than 1K watts (especially with a newer, more efficient amplifier like an Alpine, Kicker or JL) then you should be fine.
I have a 2013 hyaundai veloster I have a 2000 watt wdx amp With dual 12 Rockford p3. I have a die hard agm battery Lights dim at high bass notes Also I notice my rpm needle gauge fluctuating when notes are hit! I was told to get a good capacitor 10 farad/ or super cap. I was also told another battery. Battery was tested and alternator. And both is fine I’m trying to stay reasonable in the pricing. But what could I do to solve this?
if you dont want your lights to dim you do the following.... alternator upgrade...big three upgrade...second battery...isolator on the second battery....then the amp will not pull any power from your main battery
Hey Frank - if we've done a Big 3 upgrade and are still getting lights dimming, we'll try adding a battery. If the problem persists then you're talking about a new alternator.
So that depends.. What's the year/make/model of your car? What amplifier are you running? Are your headlights dimming, or is your battery dying too? There are a few variables involved when deciding what size alternator to choose. Without getting into the weeds, I'd say a Mechman 250amp alternator will work fine in most cases.
So here's my problem, been looking for a solution and no one has been helpful as of yet. So I drive a 2011 Lacrosse, 180 stock Amp. I replaced with a Mechman 250 Amp alternator. I used a 0g to attach to battery. Ground is also 0g. I am also running a second battery in the trunk, all professional. Got the fuses, large g cables, etc. Amp is 1500x2 rms (Orion red, when they were good) but my lights dim. I fixed with led lights but they blind everyone at night. So I went back to halogens. They dim so badly, and I need some kind of alternative. Can I fix it so the halogens don't dim? Or can I make it so the led lights don't blind everyone? Something in between? I have plenty of power, voltage never drops even at full volume. Everything was done right. But I just can't find an alternative to cover both sides of the fence. Would appreciate any tips or tricks, thank you.
If your lights are dimming then you are losing voltage. Just for a second. That means your batteries can’t discharge fast enough to cover that brief power loss. I would recommend a couple of things. That amp is a class ab? You said 2 channel? If it is swap to a class d. As well change/add batteries to lithium with a high amperage discharge like a headway or a lev60. Then if you still have the issue grab a super capacitor bank. Problem will be gone
@@RealPivotTV my voltage stays between 15.2 (very cold days) and 14.7 (warmer days) it never drops, but I still believe you're correct when you say the battery isn't discharging fast enough. I did buy a 2 farad cap to help, probably won't install until warmer weather. I do hope that'll help, maybe change the 2nd battery (it's agm right now, but underhood battery is a lead acid diehard, Idk if that makes any difference or not) I appreciate your advice sir thank you
We just did my friends mustang. Xs power capacitor with a power and ground. We also added 1/0 from alternator power to battery with a fuse. We also added 1/0 grounds to the alternator. One to the frame one to the battery. Car is running a sundown salt 2, 2k watts to a resilient platinum 12. 138db in a drop top😎
I’m glad i found this channel!! I just got 2 10s subwoofer by Rockford fosgate P1
And Rockford amp and 4 channel amp
Door speakers and it was so trash didn’t sound good but now thanks to you guys it sounds better. I’m a subscriber now ✅
Yo i have the same subs what amp your using ?
@@takeflightleakz8449 Rockford prime R2 500x1 amp for the subs and Rockford prime R2 300x4 for the 4 channel and a sound stream 8x-10.
@@takeflightleakz8449 how about you? What you running?
@@ramirez335i9 running a rockford prime r2 1200x1 amp on 800 watts for a 2 ohm load
Great info. Easy to look over some of these points.
Thanks man!
Sorry you half way right bud 👍 i did all what you said and still had issues. You do a big 3 please please add a battery!!Taramps amplifier. My lights still dimmed with a 350 amp alt. I'm really surprised you didn't tell folks to add another battery😂😂
I brought my high power 290 amp alternator, I'm doing big 3 zero, but I don't know what to get battery wise??? Front and back battery??? Running 1 down4sound jp95 1500 watts, and a down4sound jp33 3300 watts.
Agreed! Awesome short
Thanks man!
Great information
Glad it was helpful!
I am about to install 2 wolfram AW5Ks at 1.3 ohm each. I have a 320 amp alt and 80 ah yinlong . Is that enough electrical support?
As long as you have a high performance battery ... and you've done a Big 3 upgrade, I don't see why not.
Just got a Skar amp for my 2021 Chevy Spark. The lights dim when parked but don't think the car is capable of the big 3 upgrade. Looked online and no info about upgrading on the car.
I have , dual 12" rockford fosgate p3 12 loaded enclosure , with a rockford r2-1200x1 amp , but im still dimming , i was told this was a good amp on power consumption ??? Plus my head unit is the jvc KW-Z1000W
You need another battery. That's what I had to do
Altnator on “”newer”” cars should be 120-160 amps i power a 6k amp with 2 15s with no charge issues. Have only peaked around 4000watts but no issues ever on stock wiring
I have a 06 hyundai the car has a 130amp alt. Do you think I could run a jp13 amp?
Not stock battery though. You absolutely cannot pull that much without a little bit of reserve power on stock alt.
@@biguzivert to this day I am yet to have issues a bit of light dimming nothing major.
@@riley_400 get a 2nd battery for the subs and you should be fine
@@igamefordays9471 How much agm you got? I get about 1000 watts at 10 volts with no continuous drop. I don’t believe Im getting my full alternator output because by battery is cheapest of the cheap and small with high resistance.
I have a 370 high output alternator(with big 3 upgrade), dual battery upgrade ( genius off-road kit), but my lights still flicker when my music is turn up. I have a T2500 powering four 8s wired with 0 gauge and a 500 watt Rockford amp powering the other components. What do I need to do?
Keep in mind the alternator is only throwing out rated output at around 3000ish engine rpm. Not idle rpm which is around 600 to 800 rpm. Its only putting out around a third of its full rated output at idle. Adding an additional battery back by your amps would help to a point but its still more of a band aid type fix. With an alternator that large I would do a big 4 upgrade. Run a 1/0 OFC ground cable directly from the case of the alternator to the negative side of your battery along with your primary engine ground which is usually attached to 1 of the mounting bolts on your starter motor. Also get yourself a wire wheel for a cordless drill and make sure you have nice shiny metal underneath the cable lugs. Any kind of scale etc needs to be removed along with any paint or rust. This is extremely important. Then once you get everything attached tightly take a can of Rust Oleum.spray paint and spray the lugs and panels their to help corrosion out. Also I really hope you didn't use CCA cable copper claded aluminum . You should use OFC Oxygen free copper. OFC is significantly better than CCA. CCA is cheap for a very good reason. Don't use it expeacially on an amp that big. Because you do run the risk of blowing that amp. CCA with get soft with temperature changes causing loose connections down the road it also corrodes insanely fast. You might need to change your battery out with an AGM battery as they can charge and discharge alot faster than a conventional flooded car battery. Also as batteries age the internal resistance inside the battery increases meaning it takes longer for it to absorb current from the alternator. So again it might be time for a new battery. Among other things but thats where I'd start.
Super cap, lithium problem solved
What if I don’t want to continuously listen to full tilt. Maybe once and a while. Can adding reserve power be enough.
It depends on your existing power supply. If you're in a newer vehicle and running less than 1K watts (especially with a newer, more efficient amplifier like an Alpine, Kicker or JL) then you should be fine.
I have a 2013 hyaundai veloster
I have a 2000 watt wdx amp
With dual 12 Rockford p3.
I have a die hard agm battery
Lights dim at high bass notes
Also I notice my rpm needle gauge fluctuating when notes are hit!
I was told to get a good capacitor 10 farad/ or super cap.
I was also told another battery.
Battery was tested and alternator. And both is fine
I’m trying to stay reasonable in the pricing. But what could I do to solve this?
Big 3 and possible higher amp alternator
I just got some jbl stage 2 speakers at 240w and my headlights start flickering but only on my low beams , high beams work without any problems
So if i get an amp everything should be fine yes?
Are you from east Indian descent? Anyways nice review.
Thanks man!
Persian heritage, born and raised in the US of A 💪
if you dont want your lights to dim you do the following.... alternator upgrade...big three upgrade...second battery...isolator on the second battery....then the amp will not pull any power from your main battery
Can you fire me a link for this "isolator" that I possibly will need plz? Cheers
can we all agree them old caps were just a scam
Definitely!
When do you suggest adding a battery for the audio?
Hey Frank - if we've done a Big 3 upgrade and are still getting lights dimming, we'll try adding a battery. If the problem persists then you're talking about a new alternator.
Getting a Mechman alternator 🔜
Wat about 5,000 watt amp wat alternator I need
So that depends..
What's the year/make/model of your car? What amplifier are you running? Are your headlights dimming, or is your battery dying too?
There are a few variables involved when deciding what size alternator to choose.
Without getting into the weeds, I'd say a Mechman 250amp alternator will work fine in most cases.
What if you did all that and still dimming???
Then you've got a parasitic draw somewhere and need to do in-depth testing.
So here's my problem, been looking for a solution and no one has been helpful as of yet. So I drive a 2011 Lacrosse, 180 stock Amp. I replaced with a Mechman 250 Amp alternator. I used a 0g to attach to battery. Ground is also 0g. I am also running a second battery in the trunk, all professional. Got the fuses, large g cables, etc. Amp is 1500x2 rms (Orion red, when they were good) but my lights dim. I fixed with led lights but they blind everyone at night. So I went back to halogens. They dim so badly, and I need some kind of alternative. Can I fix it so the halogens don't dim? Or can I make it so the led lights don't blind everyone? Something in between? I have plenty of power, voltage never drops even at full volume. Everything was done right. But I just can't find an alternative to cover both sides of the fence. Would appreciate any tips or tricks, thank you.
If your lights are dimming then you are losing voltage. Just for a second. That means your batteries can’t discharge fast enough to cover that brief power loss. I would recommend a couple of things. That amp is a class ab? You said 2 channel? If it is swap to a class d. As well change/add batteries to lithium with a high amperage discharge like a headway or a lev60. Then if you still have the issue grab a super capacitor bank. Problem will be gone
@@RealPivotTV my voltage stays between 15.2 (very cold days) and 14.7 (warmer days) it never drops, but I still believe you're correct when you say the battery isn't discharging fast enough. I did buy a 2 farad cap to help, probably won't install until warmer weather. I do hope that'll help, maybe change the 2nd battery (it's agm right now, but underhood battery is a lead acid diehard, Idk if that makes any difference or not) I appreciate your advice sir thank you