Why not.... Not weight what so ever... Hanging a gate etc the brick... Also new bricks as shite anyway... Not like the old accrington bricks.... They are quality!!!
Mary Cooper (Sheldon's mom from Young Sheldon) steps out the door: "What did you DO?" (With that "if you lie to me I will know and there will be hell to pay" stare). 😁
One of my first jobs out of high school involved installing electronics behind the line at fast food restaurants. The control box had to be mounted in a specific location on the wall. Oftentimes that meant I had one fastener in brick, another in mortar, one in a stud, and the last in drywall. So the answer to the question posed in the thumbnail for me has always been “yes.”
I have mounted thousands of devices on all types of surfaces, you cannot always choose where the mounting holes will be, bricks have holes inside, and longer anchors will pop through sometimes, hitting them in farther with a hammer will cause that.
Drill- Packedge in typical box, came with a tool bag (added bonus), two batteries, one charger, drill, and driver. Two words "plenty of Torque" th-cam.com/users/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv well I guess that's three. Nice upgrade from current setup. Has belt clips, I don't think I will be using those. Driver and drill were bigger than what I expected but it is an upgrade from the current setup. For the money I would say that this is a great setup for Professionals and DIY/Weekend warriors.
I remember my Father mixing mortar, he would use the proper amount of sand to mortar ratio, and then he would toss in about a quarter of a shovel of concrete mix too. We've never had to go back and fix loose mortar between bricks or blocks ever. I'm talking about jobs we did together when I was a kid, some 40-45 years ago and the mortar looks like it was just put in a month ago, no crumbling, or cracking and no repairs needed.
@@markflierl1624 Most of our customers didn't have any knowledge of the technology or the tools to do the job.. Let me tell this young one, " Never grab the wrong end of a soldering iron when it's hot.
In architecture the specifications for mortar were that it must always be weaker than the brick or block it was bonding. This was done on the premise that if there was movement that would result in a crack, the crack would follow the mortar joint which is much easier to repair compared to a brick or block.
Now you just need to convince the crack to "follow the mortar", instead of the force actually being applied (which tends to not follow a 90 degree zig-zag pattern). 😄
@@sigi9669 - If the force was being applied to the whole surface, *it wouldn't crack in the first place.* What causes walls to crack is precisely localised (and / or highly directional) forces that _aren't_ being applied to the whole surface. Mortar can certainly crack (due to multiple reasons), but shearing forces that cause one side of a wall to slide up or down can't really follow the mortar lines, because that would require bending or compressing the bricks themselves (two things bricks are notorious for not doing). Also, note that a lot of "brick walls" aren't really brick walls, they're concrete walls with brick veneers just for looks.
My dad's black and decker hammer drill is still going strong after 20+ years! Amazing engineering! Obviously it's not as powerful as current drills, but for DIY projects at home, it's perfect and reliable.
I have B+D older than that, in the day there was diy drills together with a professional range, but the beauty of B + D is that back then they had service centres in most towns and it was easy & cheap to get all of their power tools serviced and maintained.
My dad's black and decker was bought before I was born (in the 1950s). It now has a plaster mixing paddle installed in the chuck permanently as that's the only thing I use it for. That paddle is now over 40 years old but still works fine and even still has some of it's original orange paint on it. I daresay I could find another chuck key for it but I haven't seen the original in over 50 years. (Yes it was a bit of a devil tightening the chuck onto that paddle which is why it has never been out since)
Okay, I'm knew on this channel but... it depends on what you are trying to secure on a wall. Yes, securing to brick is stronger. However, it is less expensive to replace motar than it is to replace brick. Since 1983 I've been working in the telecommunications industry an for the past ten years I have been installing copper and fiber service. A light plastic copper or transition box and conduit is secured to the mortar to avoid any costly damage to a customer's house.
Never had to do any DIY so total novice but my husband passed away so just looking at hints and tips on TH-cam. Come across this. It is so helpful. Very simple and clear. Thank you so much
There is very little an average homeowner can't learn to do in terms of repair. From toilets to capacitors on an air conditioning compressor units. TH-cam is a great resource! Just always use caution if working with electrical and thinking about the worst that can happen. Whenever turning a wrench think about what your knuckles might run into if it slips!
You know whenever I used to see holes being drilled into a brick building they always seem to be put into the mortar and I always got good results from going right into the mortar but I'm going to keep watching this video and see what's going on
Personally I’d use a 6.5mm bit for brown plugs, 5.5mm for red. Generally speaking. All is situational on the type of plugs your using of which there are numerous, and the thickness of screws being used. So often bricks/walls just crumble, better to start with smaller hole and use bigger bit if necessary.
I agree. Oftentimes the chattering of the masory bit in the substrate will make a bigegr hole than the number size it's been given. I always use the half size down and often find it's perfect, nice and tight.
I always fit temporary/moveable stuff to mortar as to not damage a brick, hangin baskets , light, plaque, side tv aerial. Downpipe, fence dividing timber, front door canopy etc bricks.
A couple of points: 1. Why not show masonry bits in the introduction. The Dewalt bits were for wood and steel. This would help the novice understand and save confusion. 2. I disagree that you should ‘always’ drill into mortar. It depends on many factors such as, the age of the house and the type of brick (older bricks tend to be much harder, and modern bricks have holes in them to grab the mortar and are easily cracked), quality of the mortar, age of the mortar, what it is you are fixing as most items will be relatively light weight and the mortar would be fine, is the item needing to be removed in the future? 3. Mortar is designed to be repaired whereas bricks are not. Can be a benefit in both options. If you are hanging something, but it will need to be removed, then put it in the mortar. If it’s permanent and heavy go in the brickwork. 4. Position depends on what you are fixing. Brackets with many fixings will unlikely allow you to fix every point in the centre of the brick. 5. You didn’t mention where to drill in the brick to minimise the risk of cracking the brick. Glad the video has had a lot of views, but not sure how helpful it is in the real world and improve the novices understanding.
Old bricks can be soft too. A couple of times I have drilled a 6mm hole and put in a 12mm plug. Some blocks are so hollow, that they either fall apart, or the plug goes right through.
I once tried to drill into a 150-year-old brick, one of many thousands of locally made bricks that made up an old loco shed (75F UK) The brick was so hard it melted the masonry bit . . .
I was pretty shocked he didn't mention to avoid drilling near the edge. The risk of cracking can be significant. Using a concrete anchor Bolt in a brick at the end of a wall was a mistake I'll only make once.
I normally drill into the mortar because it`s much easier . Also , as a 71 year old , I reckon I`m ` crumbling ` faster than the mortar so the fitting is likely to outlast me anyway. Cheers.
Depending on what it is you're trying to hang / mount on the brick-faced wall, the weight bearing down on the screw, as well as the force pulling on the screw, will have to be considered. Drilling entirely through the brick, or even the mortared joint, anchoring a screw or lag bolt into the wall behind the brick face will provide a stronger anchor point. Just be sure not to crush the brick / mortar when snugging the screw / lag. In addition, find out what type of wall is behind the brick face. Concrete or block walls will require plugs or shields as well.
On more modern brick walls there could even be a space behind the walls to prevent thermal bridging. Maybe that's more for commercial but still should be considered.
The _only_ time I ever drill through the mortar, is if I'm running a wire/cable (typically ethernet for POE usually for a doorbell camera). This helps reduce snags, and I backfill the hole with silicone anyway, mostly to keep bugs from getting behind the brick.
Excellent video! This gentleman knows a lot more about it than me. But I wanted to offer a small tip that may be helpful. Sometimes I find the drill wants to bounce around a bit at the start and it's hard to get the hole started exactly where I want it. So I use a much smaller bit, like a 3 or 4, NOT on the hammer setting, just to create a small starter hole, not even 1/8" deep. Then I'll switch to the larger bit. Takes more time, of course, but it's a handy tip to have in the back pocket when needed.
That is exactly what I do, except I do not use a smaller bit. If I am using these plastic anchors you are most likely making a 1/4" hd bit. A lot of brands give you the bit with the jar of anchors. I just use the 1/4" on drill setting. It grinds away a small dimple. Then throw the drill on hammer and drill in. If I am drilling into tile I never turn it to hammer. Just use the hd bit on drill setting and it works wonders.
on many surfaces you can also start your bit in reverse - that tends to wander much less and will also leave a small depression right where you want to drill.
always good practice to wear eye protection but dust in your eyes is the least of your worries when goofing around with masonry, you will breathe in silica and will lodge itself in the lungs and will never leave, too much of it and you get silicosis, too severe of a case and its a death sentence.
I’m a lady and I thank you the training . Im glad your video came to me, Ive been wondering what’s the right process and materials needed to drill into brick. I now I can say, “oh I got it”!
I remember when we didn’t have these tools and would use a star drill and hammer to make the hole, the push in a bit of roughly shaped wood plug. Some joiners could, using hammer and cold chisel, start a hole on one side of a brick wall then (to prevent spalling) go around to the other side which could be in another room, lightly tap the wall find the hole and finish the hole. My dad taught me how to make a chopped, twisted plug often used to hold door frames, a number of mortar joints were cleared and the flat, timber plug was hammered in; as it went in it twisted and was very secure. the plug is long enough so that when finished all the plugs could be sawn to length to take the door frame. To make the plug a piece of flat softwood which was joint thickness was chopped with an axe so that it remained the same thickness throughout but resembled the twist of an aeroplane propeller. This sounds confusing so google it.
You say: "I remember when we didn’t have these tools and would use a star drill and hammer to make the hole" I don't say you're lying, but I'm 75 years old and all I remember is the use of an electric drill or a big hand drill, but never the use of a hammer and a star drill!!
Have still got bruised hands from using a star drill bit and hammer 40 years ago, putting up lights in a canal tunnel. No battery drills then and not allowed generator near to water.
I always use lead shields in the mortar, wedged between 2 bricks, never had a problem. You can remove them from the mortar when changing things around and just patch the mortar. I have seen many cracked bricks and brick walls full of defunct plugs over the years though. Bricks also have a lot of voids in them, not the best place for anchoring.
I agree. Drilling into the brick totally wrecks the look of the house. The mortar may crumble, but a brown plug won't pull out with a no.10 screw. It will be wedged between the bricks, to a depth of 50mm.
I've got thousands of down pipes hanging from the mortar, throughout the Greater Toronto Area for 43 years and cannot remember one failing ever. For a long time we'd anchor the straps with a wood wedge. Bricks have open spaces inside and are quite brittle, they don't take plug expansion very well, in my humble opinion. I'd much rather have a mortar problem, than a customer with a cracked or broken brick on their home. Cheers
@@moondawg3693 Agreed. Nothing is permanent and people change their minds. What they want there today will need to me moved later. It's much easier to patch the mortar.
@@grantrichards4950 Totally agree. Not only is it easier to patch the mortar, quite often it's impossible to replace bricks. Sand and Cement are both going to be with us for a very long time. Brick designs come and go, as do their manufacturers. So if you ever want to replace a brick because it's riddled with redundant holes, you may find it's no longer available in that pattern.
@@josephstratti52 My house was originally built with solid bricks, no frog or other voids. Then when I had an extension the bricks were made with three large holes in the middle. Drilling a hole the depth shown in the example in the centre of a brick would hit the hole in the brick where there is neither brick or mortar. The house next door had someone drilling into the solid bricks too close to the corner of the wall. Large chunks of brick have split off. Putting a wire through the wall, drill the mortar makes more sense. You need to take into account a number of things when deciding where to drill holes in walls. SAFETY GLASSES and EAR PROTECTION. A modern SDS drill throws bits away from the hole very rapidly and the noise from some drills is very loud. This work was being done close to both eyes and ears. Safety and PPE should be the first thing mentioned in any of these DIY videos.
This is actually a bit of a trick question because I'd say it depends on the brick. Some bricks are porous (improved insulation) or have huge hollow insides so you'd need to supplement with anchor mass as well to actually have something that the plug or screw can support against or it will be like trying to hang something in brittle styrofoam. I did have to use three cartridges of anchor mass for just two screws in a brick wall hanging a computer networking enclosure on a wall to be sure it was staying put.
I hate to sound like an idiot but this was extremely helpful! I wasn’t sure if there was other things that needed to be done for the brick drilling! I’m ready to do it myself! THANK YOU!
Thanks soooo much ❗I have literally done this wrong for years. Now since I have a new cordless drill I'm definitely looking forward to drilling vs screwing. Great simplified content.
Disclaimer: please wear PPE if you wish to. I choose not to wear safety glasses nor ear defenders. If you want to wear PPE, please do so. I credit my viewers as being able to do what’s best for them. Also, I’m well aware that there is a downpipe bracket drilled into the mortar behind me. This was there when I bought the house. 🤣
NIce mate. Knowing what you are doing mitigates the risks way more than restricting your vision with some silly curved scratched up safety glasses. IMO obvs.
You should never drill into the brick especially if its historic. You cant replace the brick, if it breaks you are screwed. You can always replace the mortar or strengthen the hole you make
Mortar fine, for small loads, but brick gives five to ten times the load ability. Mortar if you are doing a temporary install as it is easier to patch. So pictures mortar, speakers and other heavy stuff - brick. Good stuff, cheers Neil
For small holes that is fine. However when I used to install heavy LTE antennas with thick bolts we always try to drill into the mortar for several reasons. -Here you will find a lot of hollow bricks so you only have about a cm of stone to work with. -Older bricks(100 -200 years) can shatter when you tighten them up. Those hollow ones can too. -Easier to repair the holes if the bolts are removed. -The plugs we used were as wide as the mortar so it would grip nicely between the bricks. Only when you would install them on top of a chimney or a wall without weight on top we would drill in the bricks(if there were less than 4-5 layers above it) as otherwise when you tighten them you would lift the brick layers of their mortar and the top of the chimney would come off.
@@deadmanswife3625 You say that, unrelated to the video I once had to install one at the house of a BMW dealer(in other words they had money) who placed a radio tower in their backyard. I had to max out my trucks aerial work platform (30M) and still had to lower part of the mast so that thing was hanging at aprox 35m. Our mast was located maybe 300m away, could have placed that antenna on the ground facing the wrong way and still get max speed xD. Would have been cheaper to get fiber to the property... But yeah, if you are able to have a separate structure for things like that, do it. I always appreciated customers who made arrangements like that. ( And if you are nice to the technician he might "forget" to limit your SIM card or something like that ;) )
If, however you are using Lag and Shield fasteners for larger attachments, it is preferable to place them along the mortarline where possible. Because they expand more than plastic plugs they are apt to crack the brick. When placed in the mortar they will expand up to the brick giving a tight solid hold.
I always drill the mortar. I did this for over 40 years and never had a problem. I kept many of my clients for the whole time so if there were any problems I would have been contacted.
As someone who drills based off blueprints we drill brick and mortar. Depending on what we are hanging we may scoot 1/4in to miss the mortar for a heavier load. If it's light we will run in the mortar for speed. Side note we do commercial construction all over the US and mortar is very inconsistent. If its important I would probably skip hanging it in the mortar.
Commercal electrician, we skip mortar whenever possible as the screws don’t hold as tight and it always seems like the tapcons strip the mortar instead of creating rivets to screw into
@@adrianakuzmikova1697 the problem with a hasp hinge in concrete is most don't allow for a bolt head ,which is what you really need for concrete. There are some styles of hasp hinges that don't fold back on themselves and leave the anchor head exposed. If you are trying to prevent strictly a crowbar attack you could do that style hinge with some red heads or cobras but then you could just take it off with a wrench.
@@MadebyKourmoulis I made hasp myself. I just need a good way to fix it to hollow brick wall. I need to find a way for screws to stay firmly in hollow bricks when hasp will be attacked by a thief.
Those bits are not for masonry, they're for wood and metal. Masonry bits have ceramic tips. It even illustrates that on the box. Steel gets eaten up by rocks/bricks quick.
@@davealmighty9638 They are not masonry bits, Masonry bits have have tungsten carbide insert at the top not a coating, those bits have no insert. Also tungsten carbide is a ceramic
@@gillo100 and masonry bits do not have "inserts". They have fused carbide bits. That is possible because of the tungsten. You are trying to argue with someone who works at a company that makes masonry bits as one of our many products. And there are actually masonry bits made of HSS steel that are often included with packages of small concrete anchors. They are designed to last for the amount of anchors in the package.
@@davealmighty9638 ok fair enough maybe insert is the wrong term. They have tungsten carbide "tips". Can you link to where those dewalt masonry bits are available? And explain why the box they are coming out of has a picture of wood and metal, not stone?
Your fancy red tape depth gauge. When i was a boy we had none of that fancy shenanigans, we stacked our free fingers on top of each other until we marked the right depth then drilled through them. Blood and bone everywhere there was but we got the job done. Ah, them were the days. (written by ' too much time on my hands ' on a Sunday evening ).
As a union mason I was taught to never ever drill into the brick, unless you're going to be replacing it. Drilling into the brick permanently damages the building, and risks cracking the brick. It's a terrible practice. You should always put anchors in the mortar joint. We usually use lead sleeve anchors (or lead hammer drives for light duty). The best spot is usually where the bed joint meets the head joint. When the job is over, unless they're staying, the anchors are removed, and the mortar is repaired. If your mortar is so deteriorated that it won't hold an anchor, then it's time to grind and tuckpoint.
Totally agree bro. I'd I had crumbling mortar I'd just widen the hole and ram a tapered wood dowl or wedge home and use a coach screw type thread. Hung many heat pumps etc like that
I don't believe there's anything wrong with this practice at all. I probably would've used shorter screws myself but it all depends on what you're trying to hang. Screws that small usually won't damage the brick. Also, if he were to drill into the mortar in this particular video, it would be harder for him to hang something to the wall, you may not be able to drill your screw all the way in as well since the mortar caves inward. For me, this practice is fine considering the size of the screws. There's always a chance of brick being damaged regardless of tiny screws being drilled into them and they can always be repaired as well. Just my two cents.
@@georgebush6002 yes I have seen old Fred Dibnah doing that gotta say I'd be hammering those " iron dogs" in a couple more inches than what he appears to lol. However I learned it from my old boss doing plumbing and general contracting. He used to have a steel drum full of old roof nails we would use them with the wood wedges to mount all manner of things, mostly galvanized piping brackets though
Always centre punch your marking to stop drill running away from that spot you marked and always centre drill(metal jobs) to relieve the cutting point of the drill then incrementally increase the size until the desired diameter has been achieved and when slow rev reaming with plenty of lubricant leave 0.10 or 4" for tidying up the bore.Easy
Great video, but please ALWAYS wear eye protection when drilling into brick or mortar. The 30 seconds it takes to put them on versus the four hour wait in eye casualty is, in my opinion, a no-brainer.
A lot of modern bricks are hollow and do not lend themselves for face fixing and will usually disintegrate under the second attempt of trying to get a secure fixing. Personally I would never advise face fixing as the permanent damage to brick face. You can repoint a bed of Mortar easily but trying to replacing a damaged brick that is discontinued... good luck with that.
Not everyone is a Mason and can repoint. I am I would probably make an integral support structure worked right through the wall and lagged with pressure dispersion plates and blah blah blah but usually mounting anything to a brick wall depends all on the load.
Depends on the job, the load, and where you need the hole. I usually drille holes in bricks and walls to pass cables through so for me I use the mortar as it's just easier to drill through and as you say I'm only ruining some mortar.
The answer depends on the composition of the brick, the composition of the mortar, and the flexibility of the mounting options. Flimsy brick is no stronger the typical mortar and flimsy mortar is a disaster. I've got both flimsy brick and flimsy mortar on my home. It has held up for years, but is a pain to mount objects on.
Totally agreed to this answer. I've worked for 12 years in a college. The building is on the historic registry. There are times I can "drill into the brick" and it might as well have been sand. The mortar? Yeah right.
Depends what the hole is going to be used for. If hanging something heavy drill the brick if driĺling a hole to install a cable or a light fitting drill the mortar.
Your video answered my question as well as making for a good laugh as at position 4:11 the black gutter behind you is screwed in to the mortar and not the brick. Thanks for the great video and the laugh.
I would argue “it depends”. If it is something that might take some weight and is a more permanent structure like a mailbox then I drill into the brick. If it is something lighter - and subject to the changing whims of the wife - like a trellis in one of her flower beds then I would use the mortar as it is easier to fill and get to look right when she changes her mind. Again!
I'm very familiar with the whims but since when is a mailbox heavy and permanent? It's been my experience in construction that nothing is really permanent. Needs change and most of what gets mounted to the outside of a home will be removed at some point. Mortar is much easier to fix than brick.
I'd say drill the brick unless you want the wall to fall apart. But if the bricks are covered with plaster you need to know where the edges of the bricks are.
If you leave a flap on the tape it will be easier to see how deep you drill. On flat surfaces it will sweep the dust out of the way. Also makes it easier to remove. You're welcome.
OMG - I love the tip about tapping the plug head in BEFORE turning the screw. AWESOME tip. I always seem to get a splurge of wall plug sticking out my hole that gets in the way of a flush finish. Embarrassingly, I got to 57 yrs of age and didn't know this gem! One is always learning. Thanks. Simon / Adelaide
Bed joint in the masonry is the best place to secure anchors. Drilling into the units risks breaking them, its much easier to replace a joint than a masonry unit. Brick, stone or block replacing joints is much easier.
I use an impact drill with a dust extraction adaptor. Removes a lot of the dust and prevents a dust trail that can be hard to clean off the wall. Wear eye protection if blowing out the dust.
Yes - finally a comment that addresses the importance of removing loosened debris from the hole before inserting the wall plug. I use compressed air from a small canister sold at computer and camera shops.
The brick's got holes through it as made, also if there are is any reworking to be done now or in the future, mortar is easily repaired and the brick can't be!
I'd always assumed it was brick even though I grew up with mostly wood homes and sheds etc. The thing is, every so often I see someone has hung something by drilling into the mortar and especially in China where they often seem to find.. well I don't know if there is a masonry name but where where bricks meet and there is both a horizontal and vertical lines of mortar. I don't know what they are thinking but I can tell you I missed certain death by mere inches when, during a rain storm, a section of signage fell of a hotel exterior and utterly destroyed the scooter next to me. On inspection, they had just drilled holes into mortar and fit the sign in with some rebar (so not even screws) and it seemed to me they'd caked it all in mortar. Sort of like they decided that would 'glue it in, real good'.
I brought one of the first 18" tv dish systems to my fathers to install on a red brick house and I tried the brick first with a newer masonry bit on a hammer drill and it murdered the bit fast. Pulled out a new bit and went for the mortar with no issues. I was extremely experienced in drilling slabs ,block walls, and poured headers but that red brick was rough.
Being a former cable and satellite installer, I have ran across everything including this. It is not the equipment. Trust me. There are brick compositions out there that will absolutely murder a common masonry bit.
So all of the shelves in my hours are on a slant. HAHAh So I am going to put these shelves somewhere else on the outdoor patio or just get a stand. That looked easy, but I don't want to mess it up. Thank you for the explanation.
In Canada the color of the plug means nothing! Black white red yellow etc. and all of them can be any size. But if you have a good screw it will do the job no matter what color fits in the hole but its the size of the hole and a good screw that really matters the most ! Not too tight and not too loose! Some people even caulk the hole when they are done ! Some people don't drill the hole deep enough! A little extra depth is always good and helps get the job done . I hope this helps all you handy men! LOL
The same in Finland. Plugs have specifications (hole diam., min. hole depth, suitable screw sizes), color means nothing. Unfortunately there are many kinds of plastic plugs, some are awful especially if any pulling is exerted (e.g. hanging from ceiling). I have found Fischer brand plugs the best (and when you see them the quality is quite obvious), they are usually a bit more pricey than some "common" or bulk sale plugs but they hold best. EDIT: Fischer makes many different kinds, I was thinking of the SX variants that I have used for decades.
just a quick question, you mention at 0:52 about using masonry drill bit but you were using normal bits did you swap them out when we were not looking?
Well no.1 for not wearing safety glass with all that dust when drilling. In my part of the world, I drill a 6mm hole and generally use a green plug, the reds are too loose. Drill a 7mm hole and use a blue plug. You can use your screw to check that you have drilled the hole deep enough before putting the plug in. Some bricks are very hard and your type of hammer drill will not effectively work, you need an impact drill with an SDS bit. Conversely, some old bricks are very soft, so a 6mm hole blows out so you put a 12mm plug in.
Yup, I have a 30 year old Black and Decker drill that's still going strong. It could do with having the brushes replaced, but it's outlasted two cordless "replacements".
I always drill into the mortar. Most bricks have hollow voids to grip the mortar. If you drill into the void you only have about an inch (2.5 cm) to drill into. As well, bricks are brittle and can crack and mortar is easier to patch if you want to remove the plug. I've seen too many older brick houses littered with holes in the bricks from this. I also tend to use lead shields instead of plastic plugs when hanging heavier objects like clothes lines.
mortar is designed to be weaker than the brick so that any movement in the building cracks the mortar as it's easier to repair 25 years in the trades and at no point have ever used mortar over brick
Hue I agree and I also know alot depends on the bit size you use and the fixing you use and the length of the fixing and the lay of the mortar all these make a difference.
You might always do this, however its 100% wrong and much weaker than drilling into the bricks. Hopefully anyone coming across this video won't read your comment as gospel. If you consider bricks brittle I'm curious as to how you'd describe mortar...
I always remember the poster that I saw in an industrial environment in the 1980's. A young man with a bandage around his eyes while holding a couple of things. The caption read: "FOR SALE: Second hand camera, second hand sunglasses, NEW UNUSED safety goggles". At the same location, one of the guys was somewhat unlucky as he had been doing a lot of angle grinding with goggles on. He took the googles off but due to his mop of hair, all the swarf that had collected in his hair dropped into his eyes. Off to casualty he went, fortunately nothing major.
Any rotary tool like a grinder yes eye protection is wise..but what the man did in this video here?? I CAN SEE THE ENTIRE GOOD HABIT ANGLE YOUR HOPING TO IMPLIMENT WITH THIS BUT COME - ON...YOU WARE SAFETY GLASSES MAKING A SANDWICH TO?? JERKING OFF.... ( *WAIT) actually my second choice of sarcastic example actually not a bad idea.. dont wanna shoot your own eye out!!
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
Love the down pipe bracket secured into the Mortar 🤣
Ryk That’s hilarious 🤣🤣👏👏
Luckily that wasn’t my work!
😂😂😂😂
Takes no weight tho.
Why not.... Not weight what so ever... Hanging a gate etc the brick... Also new bricks as shite anyway... Not like the old accrington bricks.... They are quality!!!
Door swings open "why have you drilled a random hole in the front of my house!!!!!"
😂😂😂
@@colvingenealogy wheres that from lol? I can't remember
Mary Cooper (Sheldon's mom from Young Sheldon) steps out the door: "What did you DO?"
(With that "if you lie to me I will know and there will be hell to pay" stare). 😁
The world is now full of unneeded DIY TH-cam holes.
One of my first jobs out of high school involved installing electronics behind the line at fast food restaurants. The control box had to be mounted in a specific location on the wall. Oftentimes that meant I had one fastener in brick, another in mortar, one in a stud, and the last in drywall. So the answer to the question posed in the thumbnail for me has always been “yes.”
I have mounted thousands of devices on all types of surfaces, you cannot always choose where the mounting holes will be, bricks have holes inside, and longer anchors will pop through sometimes, hitting them in farther with a hammer will cause that.
@@tlaf-yh2px there’s an echo in here, I guess.
Good comment!
I love the honesty
😂😂😂😂
Drill- Packedge in typical box, came with a tool bag (added bonus), two batteries, one charger, drill, and driver. Two words "plenty of Torque" th-cam.com/users/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv well I guess that's three. Nice upgrade from current setup. Has belt clips, I don't think I will be using those. Driver and drill were bigger than what I expected but it is an upgrade from the current setup. For the money I would say that this is a great setup for Professionals and DIY/Weekend warriors.
I remember my Father mixing mortar, he would use the proper amount of sand to mortar ratio, and then he would toss in about a quarter of a shovel of concrete mix too. We've never had to go back and fix loose mortar between bricks or blocks ever. I'm talking about jobs we did together when I was a kid, some 40-45 years ago and the mortar looks like it was just put in a month ago, no crumbling, or cracking and no repairs needed.
I was a bricklayer for 20 years. You father taught you correctly. Good job Dad!
Concrete mix? You mean he threw some sharp sand in or used actual concrete mix with pea shingle (or larger) aggregate?
as someone without a dad to show them how to do these basic things, i find videos like this so helpful. Thank you
My pleasure!
@@buildingsheriff Most men don't know to do construction.
@@markflierl1624 Most of our customers didn't have any knowledge of the technology or the tools to do the job.. Let me tell this young one, " Never grab the wrong end of a soldering iron when it's hot.
Thank you for this video. My dad never knew how to do these things so now, at age 52, I learn from You Tube.
My dad was a wonderful man, but he didn't know much about DIY construction. TH-cam and friends/family are my best bet for these things. Cheers!
In architecture the specifications for mortar were that it must always be weaker than the brick or block it was bonding. This was done on the premise that if there was movement that would result in a crack, the crack would follow the mortar joint which is much easier to repair compared to a brick or block.
I was taught to anchor to the mortar just for this because the mortar is easier to repair than the bricks.
Spot on, first thing to deteriorate on a wall is the mortar.
Now you just need to convince the crack to "follow the mortar", instead of the force actually being applied (which tends to not follow a 90 degree zig-zag pattern). 😄
@@RFC-3514 The force is being applied to the whole surface. Hence the crack will gladly zig zag if that's the easiest way to relief the tension.
@@sigi9669 - If the force was being applied to the whole surface, *it wouldn't crack in the first place.* What causes walls to crack is precisely localised (and / or highly directional) forces that _aren't_ being applied to the whole surface.
Mortar can certainly crack (due to multiple reasons), but shearing forces that cause one side of a wall to slide up or down can't really follow the mortar lines, because that would require bending or compressing the bricks themselves (two things bricks are notorious for not doing).
Also, note that a lot of "brick walls" aren't really brick walls, they're concrete walls with brick veneers just for looks.
"The bricks don't crumble."
I guess you haven't seen the front of my house.
Don’t let the sprinklers or roof drain hit it
Neither does the mortar-if it's the correct guage laid in the proper range of conditions suitable for laying.
Hahaha
My dad's black and decker hammer drill is still going strong after 20+ years! Amazing engineering! Obviously it's not as powerful as current drills, but for DIY projects at home, it's perfect and reliable.
"My dad's black" my dad is white
I have B+D older than that, in the day there was diy drills together with a professional range, but the beauty of B + D is that back then they had service centres in most towns and it was easy & cheap to get all of their power tools serviced and maintained.
My dad's black and decker was bought before I was born (in the 1950s). It now has a plaster mixing paddle installed in the chuck permanently as that's the only thing I use it for. That paddle is now over 40 years old but still works fine and even still has some of it's original orange paint on it. I daresay I could find another chuck key for it but I haven't seen the original in over 50 years. (Yes it was a bit of a devil tightening the chuck onto that paddle which is why it has never been out since)
Okay, I'm knew on this channel but... it depends on what you are trying to secure on a wall. Yes, securing to brick is stronger. However, it is less expensive to replace motar than it is to replace brick. Since 1983 I've been working in the telecommunications industry an for the past ten years I have been installing copper and fiber service. A light plastic copper or transition box and conduit is secured to the mortar to avoid any costly damage to a customer's house.
1:32 - Always drill into the brick not into the mortar.
2:45 - A shiny screw clearly drilled into the mortar for the pipe bracket
LOL
I almost always drill in the mortar because most things I attach are not heavy duty and more or less temporary
Yeah common for a comms guy to have no idea.
@@champ8605 Explain that to the home owner when you start drilling onto their historic home. Replacement bricks are not always available.
@@flyonwall360 agreed. Easy to fill mortar. Alarm guy here and cams weigh nothing so no need to go into brick. Depends on the application
'Safety squint' in full effect! Good lad👍🏻
Never had to do any DIY so total novice but my husband passed away so just looking at hints and tips on TH-cam. Come across this. It is so helpful. Very simple and clear. Thank you so much
There is very little an average homeowner can't learn to do in terms of repair. From toilets to capacitors on an air conditioning compressor units. TH-cam is a great resource! Just always use caution if working with electrical and thinking about the worst that can happen. Whenever turning a wrench think about what your knuckles might run into if it slips!
Just make sure to wear eye and ear protection…
@@Eagles_Eye EAR protection!!!!!!! Hahaha
@@SonnyGTA ?
When I did my apprenticeship 45 years ago we were taught always to drill into the mortar, never ever failed me yet
You must only work on new houses !
New bricks have holes throw the middle, I wouldn’t like to be drilling into them for anything heavy duty.
@@neilrobinson2385 Look at a brick, measure where the holes are, don’t drill there, or drill through and use a longer plug ?
You know whenever I used to see holes being drilled into a brick building they always seem to be put into the mortar and I always got good results from going right into the mortar but I'm going to keep watching this video and see what's going on
@@neilrobinson2385 agree
Quote 1 "I keep this one at home for my own DIY", quote 2 "I haven't had this drill out for years and years and years" Priceless 😂
1:32 - Always drill into the brick not into the mortar.
2:45 - A shiny screw clearly drilled into the mortar for the pipe bracket
LOL
haha, well picked up.
@@PrideDefiler he didn’t do that though. That was already there.
Straightforward, informative, and accurate. Thank you for sharing this.
Personally I’d use a 6.5mm bit for brown plugs, 5.5mm for red. Generally speaking. All is situational on the type of plugs your using of which there are numerous, and the thickness of screws being used. So often bricks/walls just crumble, better to start with smaller hole and use bigger bit if necessary.
I agree. Oftentimes the chattering of the masory bit in the substrate will make a bigegr hole than the number size it's been given. I always use the half size down and often find it's perfect, nice and tight.
0:46 We're going to use a 6mm Masonry bit, shows image of HSS drill bits !
Those are not masonary bits, neither is the one he actually drills into the brick, with
@@DrGrafenberg Yes I know, that was my point.
Thank you - I appreciate the little details of how to use equipment etc - when you haven't grown up learning these things, all the details count!
I always fit temporary/moveable stuff to mortar as to not damage a brick, hangin baskets , light, plaque, side tv aerial.
Downpipe, fence dividing timber, front door canopy etc bricks.
A couple of points:
1. Why not show masonry bits in the introduction. The Dewalt bits were for wood and steel. This would help the novice understand and save confusion.
2. I disagree that you should ‘always’ drill into mortar. It depends on many factors such as, the age of the house and the type of brick (older bricks tend to be much harder, and modern bricks have holes in them to grab the mortar and are easily cracked), quality of the mortar, age of the mortar, what it is you are fixing as most items will be relatively light weight and the mortar would be fine, is the item needing to be removed in the future?
3. Mortar is designed to be repaired whereas bricks are not. Can be a benefit in both options. If you are hanging something, but it will need to be removed, then put it in the mortar. If it’s permanent and heavy go in the brickwork.
4. Position depends on what you are fixing. Brackets with many fixings will unlikely allow you to fix every point in the centre of the brick.
5. You didn’t mention where to drill in the brick to minimise the risk of cracking the brick.
Glad the video has had a lot of views, but not sure how helpful it is in the real world and improve the novices understanding.
Old bricks can be soft too. A couple of times I have drilled a 6mm hole and put in a 12mm plug.
Some blocks are so hollow, that they either fall apart, or the plug goes right through.
I once tried to drill into a 150-year-old brick, one of many thousands of locally made bricks that made up an old loco shed (75F UK)
The brick was so hard it melted the masonry bit . . .
I have found some brick hard enough that I bought a heavy duty hammer drill to hang TVs above fireplaces. Some of the firebrick is like iron.
if you are working on an old or listed building, you probably want the job to be reversible, so you would drill into the mortar
I was pretty shocked he didn't mention to avoid drilling near the edge. The risk of cracking can be significant. Using a concrete anchor Bolt in a brick at the end of a wall was a mistake I'll only make once.
I normally drill into the mortar because it`s much easier . Also , as a 71 year old , I reckon I`m ` crumbling ` faster than the mortar so the fitting is likely to outlast me anyway. Cheers.
Brilliant! Let's hope not though!
Respect to you Mr Carter
@@kf5541 Thank you. Kindest regards.
Love your humor old man. Lol
@@Cardoza0727 Thank you , son . Best wishes from east Yorkshire .
Depending on what it is you're trying to hang / mount on the brick-faced wall, the weight bearing down on the screw, as well as the force pulling on the screw, will have to be considered. Drilling entirely through the brick, or even the mortared joint, anchoring a screw or lag bolt into the wall behind the brick face will provide a stronger anchor point. Just be sure not to crush the brick / mortar when snugging the screw / lag. In addition, find out what type of wall is behind the brick face. Concrete or block walls will require plugs or shields as well.
On more modern brick walls there could even be a space behind the walls to prevent thermal bridging. Maybe that's more for commercial but still should be considered.
Delighted to find this channel. Simple answers to questions I’ve been pondering for years
Almond Grove yes 👌🏼👏🏼
Wow. I never thought to sink the plug head. Thank you.
When sinking the plug head in, you run the risk of the plug spinning in the hole. Don't do it!
The _only_ time I ever drill through the mortar, is if I'm running a wire/cable (typically ethernet for POE usually for a doorbell camera). This helps reduce snags, and I backfill the hole with silicone anyway, mostly to keep bugs from getting behind the brick.
I alway drill my holes where it needs to go.
Excellent video! This gentleman knows a lot more about it than me. But I wanted to offer a small tip that may be helpful. Sometimes I find the drill wants to bounce around a bit at the start and it's hard to get the hole started exactly where I want it. So I use a much smaller bit, like a 3 or 4, NOT on the hammer setting, just to create a small starter hole, not even 1/8" deep. Then I'll switch to the larger bit. Takes more time, of course, but it's a handy tip to have in the back pocket when needed.
The simple answer would be to start slowly. ie a slower speed.
Yup, it's called a 'pilot hole' and you really should do it whenever you want to make a larger hole.
That's what a punch is for.
That is exactly what I do, except I do not use a smaller bit. If I am using these plastic anchors you are most likely making a 1/4" hd bit.
A lot of brands give you the bit with the jar of anchors. I just use the 1/4" on drill setting. It grinds away a small dimple. Then throw the drill on hammer and drill in.
If I am drilling into tile I never turn it to hammer. Just use the hd bit on drill setting and it works wonders.
on many surfaces you can also start your bit in reverse - that tends to wander much less and will also leave a small depression right where you want to drill.
Good tip when you drilling: use an eye protection. You don’t want all kind of dust ending up in your eye.
always good practice to wear eye protection but dust in your eyes is the least of your worries when goofing around with masonry, you will breathe in silica and will lodge itself in the lungs and will never leave, too much of it and you get silicosis, too severe of a case and its a death sentence.
I was going to say the same thing.
Absolutely wear eye protection. It is not for the reasons we can think of, it is always for the reasons we don't think of.
Squinting is actually the safest
Thanks Karen
I’m a lady and I thank you the training . Im glad your video came to me, Ive been wondering what’s the right process and materials needed to drill into brick. I now I can say, “oh I got it”!
I remember when we didn’t have these tools and would use a star drill and hammer to make the hole, the push in a bit of roughly shaped wood plug. Some joiners could, using hammer and cold chisel, start a hole on one side of a brick wall then (to prevent spalling) go around to the other side which could be in another room, lightly tap the wall find the hole and finish the hole.
My dad taught me how to make a chopped, twisted plug often used to hold door frames, a number of mortar joints were cleared and the flat, timber plug was hammered in; as it went in it twisted and was very secure. the plug is long enough so that when finished all the plugs could be sawn to length to take the door frame. To make the plug a piece of flat softwood which was joint thickness was chopped with an axe so that it remained the same thickness throughout but resembled the twist of an aeroplane propeller. This sounds confusing so google it.
The days of Tradesmen who worked with their hands - and their brains :)
You say: "I remember when we didn’t have these tools and would use a star drill and hammer to make the hole" I don't say you're lying, but I'm 75 years old and all I remember is the use of an electric drill or a big hand drill, but never the use of a hammer and a star drill!!
Have still got bruised hands from using a star drill bit and hammer 40 years ago, putting up lights in a canal tunnel. No battery drills then and not allowed generator near to water.
You have good memories and heritage.
@@Guillaume2606 I remember stardrills I'm 61 !
I always use lead shields in the mortar, wedged between 2 bricks, never had a problem. You can remove them from the mortar when changing things around and just patch the mortar. I have seen many cracked bricks and brick walls full of defunct plugs over the years though. Bricks also have a lot of voids in them, not the best place for anchoring.
I agree.
Drilling into the brick totally wrecks the look of the house.
The mortar may crumble, but a brown plug won't pull out with a no.10 screw.
It will be wedged between the bricks, to a depth of 50mm.
I've got thousands of down pipes hanging from the mortar, throughout the Greater Toronto Area for 43 years and cannot remember one failing ever.
For a long time we'd anchor the straps with a wood wedge.
Bricks have open spaces inside and are quite brittle, they don't take plug expansion very well, in my humble opinion.
I'd much rather have a mortar problem, than a customer with a cracked or broken brick on their home.
Cheers
@@moondawg3693 Agreed. Nothing is permanent and people change their minds. What they want there today will need to me moved later. It's much easier to patch the mortar.
@@grantrichards4950 Totally agree. Not only is it easier to patch the mortar, quite often it's impossible to replace bricks. Sand and Cement are both going to be with us for a very long time. Brick designs come and go, as do their manufacturers. So if you ever want to replace a brick because it's riddled with redundant holes, you may find it's no longer available in that pattern.
Depends what brick it is where your drilling as you can split the brick .... and what fixing your using and what your drilling in to the the brick for
Hopefully your masonry skills exceed that of your writing capabilities?
@@elliottalderssohn2751 yes I’m more maths and science factual subjects manly subjects not man made language
@@elliottalderssohn2751 but the grammar police are out in force today lol 😂
David,I fully understood your writing and agree with your comment on splitting bricks.
@@josephstratti52 My house was originally built with solid bricks, no frog or other voids. Then when I had an extension the bricks were made with three large holes in the middle. Drilling a hole the depth shown in the example in the centre of a brick would hit the hole in the brick where there is neither brick or mortar. The house next door had someone drilling into the solid bricks too close to the corner of the wall. Large chunks of brick have split off. Putting a wire through the wall, drill the mortar makes more sense. You need to take into account a number of things when deciding where to drill holes in walls. SAFETY GLASSES and EAR PROTECTION. A modern SDS drill throws bits away from the hole very rapidly and the noise from some drills is very loud. This work was being done close to both eyes and ears. Safety and PPE should be the first thing mentioned in any of these DIY videos.
This is actually a bit of a trick question because I'd say it depends on the brick. Some bricks are porous (improved insulation) or have huge hollow insides so you'd need to supplement with anchor mass as well to actually have something that the plug or screw can support against or it will be like trying to hang something in brittle styrofoam.
I did have to use three cartridges of anchor mass for just two screws in a brick wall hanging a computer networking enclosure on a wall to be sure it was staying put.
But that brick...
@@buzzcrushtrendkill You never know what brick you are drilling into until you discover that the plug won't stick.
I hate to sound like an idiot but this was extremely helpful! I wasn’t sure if there was other things that needed to be done for the brick drilling! I’m ready to do it myself! THANK YOU!
Thanks soooo much ❗I have literally done this wrong for years. Now since I have a new cordless drill I'm definitely looking forward to drilling vs screwing. Great simplified content.
Depends what your fixing, if it's temporary, into the mortar, if it's permanent, into the brick.
*you're. That's the contraction of you are, not your.
Disclaimer: please wear PPE if you wish to. I choose not to wear safety glasses nor ear defenders. If you want to wear PPE, please do so. I credit my viewers as being able to do what’s best for them. Also, I’m well aware that there is a downpipe bracket drilled into the mortar behind me. This was there when I bought the house. 🤣
@Billy Bunter thanks, my friend. The snowflakes can do what they want once we are pushing the daisies up!
Am with ya buddy . Ppe shite . Drill hole n move on .
@@markburton155 with you, brother!
With you on this one goggles ear defenders gloves why the f##k haha old school tradie here
NIce mate. Knowing what you are doing mitigates the risks way more than restricting your vision with some silly curved scratched up safety glasses. IMO obvs.
My wife used to be on function 1 permanently. Ah, those were the days!
:D
Maybe she needs a better drill
My wife is more like my demolition drill set on hammer mode.
My wife’s battery no longer holds a charge.
You should never drill into the brick especially if its historic. You cant replace the brick, if it breaks you are screwed. You can always replace the mortar or strengthen the hole you make
Mortar fine, for small loads, but brick gives five to ten times the load ability. Mortar if you are doing a temporary install as it is easier to patch. So pictures mortar, speakers and other heavy stuff - brick. Good stuff, cheers Neil
good, because it looks like the black pipe is drilled into the mortar.
Yep, except when the brick breaks
Protect your eyes while drilling, especially into masonry, so that you can carryon with your excellent advice.
For small holes that is fine.
However when I used to install heavy LTE antennas with thick bolts we always try to drill into the mortar for several reasons.
-Here you will find a lot of hollow bricks so you only have about a cm of stone to work with.
-Older bricks(100 -200 years) can shatter when you tighten them up. Those hollow ones can too.
-Easier to repair the holes if the bolts are removed.
-The plugs we used were as wide as the mortar so it would grip nicely between the bricks.
Only when you would install them on top of a chimney or a wall without weight on top we would drill in the bricks(if there were less than 4-5 layers above it) as otherwise when you tighten them you would lift the brick layers of their mortar and the top of the chimney would come off.
Forget the antenna in my bricks separate structure for the antenna
Ah good tip. So it depends on the brick type.
@@deadmanswife3625 You say that, unrelated to the video I once had to install one at the house of a BMW dealer(in other words they had money) who placed a radio tower in their backyard. I had to max out my trucks aerial work platform (30M) and still had to lower part of the mast so that thing was hanging at aprox 35m. Our mast was located maybe 300m away, could have placed that antenna on the ground facing the wrong way and still get max speed xD.
Would have been cheaper to get fiber to the property...
But yeah, if you are able to have a separate structure for things like that, do it. I always appreciated customers who made arrangements like that. ( And if you are nice to the technician he might "forget" to limit your SIM card or something like that ;) )
@@david6054 🤗
I would think it would depend on the weight of the attached item . A small mail box use the mortar , heavy sign , use the brick .
replay the vid, you mist the point
If, however you are using Lag and Shield fasteners for larger attachments, it is preferable to place them along the mortarline where possible. Because they expand more than plastic plugs they are apt to crack the brick. When placed in the mortar they will expand up to the brick giving a tight solid hold.
Just what I needed, i lost my Dad in 22 he was an expert at these things having being an electrician his whole working life. Thanks again 👍
That’s so tough. I’m sure he was very proud of you and I can tell from your short note that you loved him very much.
I was taught by a contractor I used to work for to use the mortar for anchors. The idea was mortar is easier to repair than a brick if need be
That contractor knows sweet fuck all.
@@vmxg8052 wow, I didn't know you knew him. What a small world 🤪.
I always drill the mortar. I did this for over 40 years and never had a problem. I kept many of my clients for the whole time so if there were any problems I would have been contacted.
i think the climate matters i live in the far north and water gets in the hole and freezes same reason are roads are terrible
Simple, easy, and to the point. Thank you for the concise video.
As someone who drills based off blueprints we drill brick and mortar. Depending on what we are hanging we may scoot 1/4in to miss the mortar for a heavier load. If it's light we will run in the mortar for speed.
Side note we do commercial construction all over the US and mortar is very inconsistent. If its important I would probably skip hanging it in the mortar.
Commercal electrician, we skip mortar whenever possible as the screws don’t hold as tight and it always seems like the tapcons strip the mortar instead of creating rivets to screw into
@@allenshamon442 tapcons are the worst. I don't understand why they are so popular.
how can I attach hasp hinges into brick when I want it to be as resistant as possible against brute force attack with crowbar?
@@adrianakuzmikova1697 the problem with a hasp hinge in concrete is most don't allow for a bolt head ,which is what you really need for concrete.
There are some styles of hasp hinges that don't fold back on themselves and leave the anchor head exposed. If you are trying to prevent strictly a crowbar attack you could do that style hinge with some red heads or cobras but then you could just take it off with a wrench.
@@MadebyKourmoulis I made hasp myself. I just need a good way to fix it to hollow brick wall. I need to find a way for screws to stay firmly in hollow bricks when hasp will be attacked by a thief.
Those bits are not for masonry, they're for wood and metal. Masonry bits have ceramic tips. It even illustrates that on the box. Steel gets eaten up by rocks/bricks quick.
Those are in fact masonry bits, and no, masonry bits do not have ceramic tips. They have tungsten carbide tips, or are all tungsten carbide.
@@davealmighty9638 They are not masonry bits, Masonry bits have have tungsten carbide insert at the top not a coating, those bits have no insert. Also tungsten carbide is a ceramic
@@gillo100 they are in fact masonry bits. That dewalt set of metric bits has been sold for atleast ten years.
@@gillo100 and masonry bits do not have "inserts". They have fused carbide bits. That is possible because of the tungsten. You are trying to argue with someone who works at a company that makes masonry bits as one of our many products. And there are actually masonry bits made of HSS steel that are often included with packages of small concrete anchors. They are designed to last for the amount of anchors in the package.
@@davealmighty9638 ok fair enough maybe insert is the wrong term. They have tungsten carbide "tips".
Can you link to where those dewalt masonry bits are available?
And explain why the box they are coming out of has a picture of wood and metal, not stone?
Your fancy red tape depth gauge. When i was a boy we had none of that fancy shenanigans, we stacked our free fingers on top of each other until we marked the right depth then drilled through them. Blood and bone everywhere there was but we got the job done. Ah, them were the days. (written by ' too much time on my hands ' on a Sunday evening ).
Brilliant! Them WERE the days…!
It looks like the down pipe hose been drilled into the mortar. Oh dear
Oops.
Kept staring at the downspout that is drilled into the mortar. You were saying…
😆😆🤣
I was wondering who else noticed that... lol
Hahahaha. I was going to say the same thing!
Who else is watching this at 3am?
Only few weirdos😅
Me!
Literally 346am watching this lollll
As a union mason I was taught to never ever drill into the brick, unless you're going to be replacing it. Drilling into the brick permanently damages the building, and risks cracking the brick. It's a terrible practice. You should always put anchors in the mortar joint. We usually use lead sleeve anchors (or lead hammer drives for light duty). The best spot is usually where the bed joint meets the head joint. When the job is over, unless they're staying, the anchors are removed, and the mortar is repaired. If your mortar is so deteriorated that it won't hold an anchor, then it's time to grind and tuckpoint.
Totally agree bro. I'd I had crumbling mortar I'd just widen the hole and ram a tapered wood dowl or wedge home and use a coach screw type thread. Hung many heat pumps etc like that
I don't believe there's anything wrong with this practice at all. I probably would've used shorter screws myself but it all depends on what you're trying to hang. Screws that small usually won't damage the brick. Also, if he were to drill into the mortar in this particular video, it would be harder for him to hang something to the wall, you may not be able to drill your screw all the way in as well since the mortar caves inward. For me, this practice is fine considering the size of the screws. There's always a chance of brick being damaged regardless of tiny screws being drilled into them and they can always be repaired as well. Just my two cents.
@@georgebush6002 yes I have seen old Fred Dibnah doing that gotta say I'd be hammering those " iron dogs" in a couple more inches than what he appears to lol. However I learned it from my old boss doing plumbing and general contracting. He used to have a steel drum full of old roof nails we would use them with the wood wedges to mount all manner of things, mostly galvanized piping brackets though
For general cooperate work, into the brick would be fine. Historically preserved properties, everything should be handled much differently.
Nothing worse than a rusty dynobolt swelling and cracking the brick. Always mortar
Always centre punch your marking to stop drill running away from that spot you marked and always centre drill(metal jobs) to relieve the cutting point of the drill then incrementally increase the size until the desired diameter has been achieved and when slow rev reaming with plenty of lubricant leave 0.10 or 4" for tidying up the bore.Easy
Great video, but please ALWAYS wear eye protection when drilling into brick or mortar. The 30 seconds it takes to put them on versus the four hour wait in eye casualty is, in my opinion, a no-brainer.
Oh! and don't forget the hearing protection or you'll end up with tinnitus and hearing loss.
@@monkeyknut8339 And don't foget the dust mask as you don't want brick dust in your lungs!
Go away safety sally.... there is no need for eye protection!!
@@orion7741 yes all this healht and safty does my head in have survive 50 years working with out any accidents that mattered odd skined knucle or two
A lot of modern bricks are hollow and do not lend themselves for face fixing and will usually disintegrate under the second attempt of trying to get a secure fixing. Personally I would never advise face fixing as the permanent damage to brick face. You can repoint a bed of Mortar easily but trying to replacing a damaged brick that is discontinued... good luck
with that.
good point. So continues the argument of morter or brick....
Stan Skaggs suck it n see...
Not everyone is a Mason and can repoint. I am I would probably make an integral support structure worked right through the wall and lagged with pressure dispersion plates and blah blah blah but usually mounting anything to a brick wall depends all on the load.
You are correct
@@aaronmackay6123 Pointing is a piece of piss ,even the unskilled labourers could do it ,& often did .
If the bricks have Holes it depends on the drill position you mark on the brick ? Solid bricks your ok .
wearing ear protection during hammerdrill function is also a very useful tip
"Setting one is for screwing"
And for drilling on metal. You don't drill on metal at high speeds, you drill slowly and with heavy pressure.
Depends on diameter of drill. Always drill metal at the correct speed, as per charts.
3:35 Do NOT push (or beat) the plug in past the head. The tiny bit of plastic left out will help keep it from turning.
I always drill into the mortar to avoid disfiguring the brick. You can repair the mortar. The brick is permanently scarred.
Depends on the job, the load, and where you need the hole. I usually drille holes in bricks and walls to pass cables through so for me I use the mortar as it's just easier to drill through and as you say I'm only ruining some mortar.
Robert...Thank you for publicly admitting that you don't know what you're doing.
@@tc1817 You are a nasty piece of work really aren't you.
Do the same and then fill the hole with new mortar, put the plug in. And let the new mortar harden.. Super strong bond.
@@robertpowell7672 the guy explained why NOT to drill into the mortar. He's the expert, not me.
The answer depends on the composition of the brick, the composition of the mortar, and the flexibility of the mounting options. Flimsy brick is no stronger the typical mortar and flimsy mortar is a disaster. I've got both flimsy brick and flimsy mortar on my home. It has held up for years, but is a pain to mount objects on.
Totally agreed to this answer. I've worked for 12 years in a college. The building is on the historic registry. There are times I can "drill into the brick" and it might as well have been sand.
The mortar? Yeah right.
Depends what the hole is going to be used for. If hanging something heavy drill the brick if driĺling a hole to install a cable or a light fitting drill the mortar.
Your video answered my question as well as making for a good laugh as at position 4:11 the black gutter behind you is screwed in to the mortar and not the brick. Thanks for the great video and the laugh.
I would argue “it depends”. If it is something that might take some weight and is a more permanent structure like a mailbox then I drill into the brick. If it is something lighter - and subject to the changing whims of the wife - like a trellis in one of her flower beds then I would use the mortar as it is easier to fill and get to look right when she changes her mind. Again!
I'm very familiar with the whims but since when is a mailbox heavy and permanent? It's been my experience in construction that nothing is really permanent. Needs change and most of what gets mounted to the outside of a home will be removed at some point. Mortar is much easier to fix than brick.
@2:31 Love the safety squint!
LOL, you have to meet OSHA regulation.
lol no glasses.... love it friend.... they don't make them like you anymore sir
We a catch the bus one way or another. 👍
I'd say drill the brick unless you want the wall to fall apart.
But if the bricks are covered with plaster you need to know where the edges of the bricks are.
If you leave a flap on the tape it will be easier to see how deep you drill. On flat surfaces it will sweep the dust out of the way. Also makes it easier to remove. You're welcome.
Depends on where you want the hole.
OMG - I love the tip about tapping the plug head in BEFORE turning the screw. AWESOME tip. I always seem to get a splurge of wall plug sticking out my hole that gets in the way of a flush finish. Embarrassingly, I got to 57 yrs of age and didn't know this gem! One is always learning. Thanks. Simon / Adelaide
Simon Trangmar Thanks. Pass it on! That tip is now your knowledge
That's because the hole is not deep enough
MR NOBODY 🤣🤣🤣
Me too
Jeez! At 2 mins when you pressed the drill, you nearly blew my head off. Your mic must be right up close. 😱🎧🤣
Bed joint in the masonry is the best place to secure anchors. Drilling into the units risks breaking them, its much easier to replace a joint than a masonry unit. Brick, stone or block replacing joints is much easier.
Thanks again.
Use a rubber bulb or similar to blow out masonry dust prior to inserting anchor. You lose a lot of holding power as the dust acts like a lubricant.
Great tip.
I use an impact drill with a dust extraction adaptor. Removes a lot of the dust and prevents a dust trail that can be hard to clean off the wall.
Wear eye protection if blowing out the dust.
Yes - finally a comment that addresses the importance of removing loosened debris from the hole before inserting the wall plug. I use compressed air from a small canister sold at computer and camera shops.
All in all it's just another brick in the wall.
The brick's got holes through it as made, also if there are is any reworking to be done now or in the future, mortar is easily repaired and the brick can't be!
Most British bricks don't have holes in
@@Bitofastupidbrit Bricks used in my garage are more hole than brick.
Why don't you think a brick can't be repaired??
Very helpful. Thank you.
Love the ‘safety squint’ as the brick dust starts to fly 🤣
Got to be done!
Drill where you need to drill and use the correct type wallplug.
I'd always assumed it was brick even though I grew up with mostly wood homes and sheds etc. The thing is, every so often I see someone has hung something by drilling into the mortar and especially in China where they often seem to find.. well I don't know if there is a masonry name but where where bricks meet and there is both a horizontal and vertical lines of mortar. I don't know what they are thinking but I can tell you I missed certain death by mere inches when, during a rain storm, a section of signage fell of a hotel exterior and utterly destroyed the scooter next to me. On inspection, they had just drilled holes into mortar and fit the sign in with some rebar (so not even screws) and it seemed to me they'd caked it all in mortar. Sort of like they decided that would 'glue it in, real good'.
I brought one of the first 18" tv dish systems to my fathers to install on a red brick house and I tried the brick first with a newer masonry bit on a hammer drill and it murdered the bit fast. Pulled out a new bit and went for the mortar with no issues. I was extremely experienced in drilling slabs ,block walls, and poured headers but that red brick was rough.
the masonry drill bit you used was trash. i'm reusing masonry bits for weeks even months
Probably old brick. I remodeled a high school recently and the bricks were impossible to drill. Getting holes for conduit took forever
Being a former cable and satellite installer, I have ran across everything including this. It is not the equipment. Trust me. There are brick compositions out there that will absolutely murder a common masonry bit.
So all of the shelves in my hours are on a slant. HAHAh So I am going to put these shelves somewhere else on the outdoor patio or just get a stand. That looked easy, but I don't want to mess it up. Thank you for the explanation.
In Canada the color of the plug means nothing! Black white red yellow etc. and all of them can be any size. But if you have a good screw it will do the job no matter what color fits in the hole but its the size of the hole and a good screw that really matters the most ! Not too tight and not too loose! Some people even caulk the hole when they are done ! Some people don't drill the hole deep enough! A little extra depth is always good and helps get the job done . I hope this helps all you handy men! LOL
The same in Finland. Plugs have specifications (hole diam., min. hole depth, suitable screw sizes), color means nothing. Unfortunately there are many kinds of plastic plugs, some are awful especially if any pulling is exerted (e.g. hanging from ceiling). I have found Fischer brand plugs the best (and when you see them the quality is quite obvious), they are usually a bit more pricey than some "common" or bulk sale plugs but they hold best.
EDIT: Fischer makes many different kinds, I was thinking of the SX variants that I have used for decades.
Not pecking the hole to eject dust/chips, and stopping the drill while the bit is in the hole, both very bad practice
Meh, adds cohesion when the micro aggragates lock the anchor in with friction lock.
FFS mate. If you’re going to put your eyes up to the drill put on some safety squints. You’ve only got one pair.
We don’t need the safety patrol telling other adults what to do.
just a quick question, you mention at 0:52 about using masonry drill bit but you were using normal bits did you swap them out when we were not looking?
he must've done. normal metal/wood drill bits won't work in masonry.
Excellent instructions. Thank you
Well no.1 for not wearing safety glass with all that dust when drilling.
In my part of the world, I drill a 6mm hole and generally use a green plug, the reds are too loose. Drill a 7mm hole and use a blue plug.
You can use your screw to check that you have drilled the hole deep enough before putting the plug in.
Some bricks are very hard and your type of hammer drill will not effectively work, you need an impact drill with an SDS bit. Conversely, some old bricks are very soft, so a 6mm hole blows out so you put a 12mm plug in.
Do I drill into the brick or the mortar. I'm too old to remember. I'll ask my daughter. 🤣🤣🤣
Can I just say here? I love seeing the use of the good old reliable tools. Proof that they just don't make them like they used to.
Yup, I have a 30 year old Black and Decker drill that's still going strong. It could do with having the brushes replaced, but it's outlasted two cordless "replacements".
When bricks with a frog in laid wrong way up to use less mortar sometimes it's best to drill into mortar
Good point.
As an extra step, I always use a vacuum cleaner to get the dust out after drilling and before putting in the plug.
Demo done next to a drain pipe that had the anchor into the mortar
I always drill into the mortar. Most bricks have hollow voids to grip the mortar. If you drill into the void you only have about an inch (2.5 cm) to drill into. As well, bricks are brittle and can crack and mortar is easier to patch if you want to remove the plug. I've seen too many older brick houses littered with holes in the bricks from this.
I also tend to use lead shields instead of plastic plugs when hanging heavier objects like clothes lines.
Hue Janus do you go to work on a horse like the other cowboys 🤣😂
Keith Robinson he’s right though 🤷♂️
mortar is designed to be weaker than the brick so that any movement in the building cracks the mortar as it's easier to repair
25 years in the trades and at no point have ever used mortar over brick
Hue I agree and I also know alot depends on the bit size you use and the fixing you use and the length of the fixing and the lay of the mortar all these make a difference.
You might always do this, however its 100% wrong and much weaker than drilling into the bricks. Hopefully anyone coming across this video won't read your comment as gospel.
If you consider bricks brittle I'm curious as to how you'd describe mortar...
Don’t forget always wear eye protection very important.
"Safety Squints" always work 😂
Hi viz vest, hard hat and condom too ?
I always remember the poster that I saw in an industrial environment in the 1980's. A young man with a bandage around his eyes while holding a couple of things. The caption read: "FOR SALE: Second hand camera, second hand sunglasses, NEW UNUSED safety goggles".
At the same location, one of the guys was somewhat unlucky as he had been doing a lot of angle grinding with goggles on. He took the googles off but due to his mop of hair, all the swarf that had collected in his hair dropped into his eyes. Off to casualty he went, fortunately nothing major.
gowd sake 🤣🤣🤣 you guys are cracking me up.
Any rotary tool like a grinder yes eye protection is wise..but what the man did in this video here?? I CAN SEE THE ENTIRE GOOD HABIT ANGLE YOUR HOPING TO IMPLIMENT WITH THIS BUT COME - ON...YOU WARE SAFETY GLASSES MAKING A SANDWICH TO?? JERKING OFF....
( *WAIT)
actually my second choice of sarcastic example actually not a bad idea..
dont wanna shoot your own eye out!!
My concern is that the bricks in my home has holes running vertically (not solid like you have).
Raw plug would work even better
It would depend on the bricks, some bricks are like cinder block with empty spaces inside.
I understand his point but the irony was sweet when he was saying mortar crumbles, bricks don't. As he stood in front of crumbling bricks 🤣