5 Drill Features Everyone Should Know
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
- Do you know all of the features of your power drill? Let's dive into each feature, when to use it and how to use it well. #powertool #cordlessdrill #diy
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00:00 5 - Side Handle for Kickback Prevention
01:41 4 - How to Use the Clutch
03:27 3 - How to Shift Gears
04:21 2 - Keyless Ratcheting Chuck
05:52 1 - Drill Modes - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Just a bit of a clarification; drilling a hole is a function of both speed and pressure. High speed is not needed, and in fact will lead to excess heat on the drill bit which will soften the tip and make it become dull prematurely. The better solution for drilling is to increase the pressure while maintaining a slower speed. This will result in the drill bit removing more material with each revolution and generates much less heat. A rule of thumb; if you don’t see flakes or chips of material coming out of the hole then all you’re doing is making heat, not drilling a hole. Less speed, more pressure.
Cutting speed also depends on drill size.
It also helps to reduce friction and dissipate heat when you are drilling into hard metal especially with a unibit (stepbit) or holesaw to use a drop or two of threading oil or 2-cycle oil.
It just depends what you're drilling. As a woodworker, faster can be better as it helps keep the cut clean. If you were drilling steel, slow and steady would be better.
He's giving tips for cordless drill/drivers though. You can only apply so much force before you're creating too much friction for the tool to overcome. And by the way increasing pressure increases the heat just as much as increasing the speed does.
@@Rowgue51 too much friction for the tool to overcome? You mean the drill will lock up and won’t be able to move? There’s no way that could ever happen with a handheld drill. And increasing pressure helps to insure the drill bit is removing metal instead of just spinning and making heat. Go find a good size drill press and there’s a good chance it will have a chart on it that shows various things like type of material being drilled, hole size, rpm, and force. You’ll see what I’m talking about.
Thank you! This video instantly changed my relationship with my drill. Appreciate it!
Thanks for letting me know all this! I inherited all of my husband’s many tools, when he passed away, and he wasn’t one to keep the manuals. I know, I could have looked on line, but this is so much better!
I feel your pain! I keep all my manuals but neither my father nor my mother's father did and I have a lot of their tools.
Videos help for sure
So much useful info on youtube, you can learn anything if you look carefully and ask the right questions. I sincerely hope you have a great sense of satisfaction using your late husband's tools, I bet he'd be really proud of you now
My days working in a furniture store warehouse taught me a ton about drills and impacts. When you are putting together/repairing 10-30 pieces of furniture varying in materials and quality every day, you learn your way around power and hand tools. The clutch is an absolute life saver when dealing with cheaper furniture that uses composite woods and thin walled metals.
Excellent video. I'm a reasonably experienced woodturner now but in an earlier year I was using a very powerful electric hand drill. It jammed and began to turn me around as opposed to the opposite. I had a very painful wrist for a couple of weeks. These tips are worth paying attention to.
We called those "armbreakers" 😂
I've gone for a ride when a big rotohammer hit some rebar. Not fun.
Hi there! I found your You Tube video, while I was searching for a "How to do basic cordless drive drilling," husband decease and left me several wood working tools. Thanks for all the step-by-step instructions! I am gone to put these cool lessons into practice. Thanks, and God bless!
I loved the cutaway scenes of the impact driver and the hammer drill. I've ever seen that anywhere else. The bit about holding the drill sideways for best use of the handle was new to me too. Love your content, keep it coming!
AVE, who streams here also, made a cutaway while back that was great.. You can search hi channel for if if you want to see it.
that section connected the dots for me as to how a clutch works similarly in a manual transmission
You have to be aware that there is actually two completely different versions of hammer drill. Since my native language is not English I'm not sure whether Americans simply don't differentiate and everything is just a hammer drill or if it was a mistake or something else.
Version shown here I would call a percussion drill. That is - to put it simple - two gears with teeth working against each other like in the example. That moves the drill back and forth only a little bit and you need to apply quite some pressure when drilling with this for it to work. It does not work without pressure.
And then you have the real impact hammer drill. That is actually like a chunk of metal hammering at the drilling unit from behind.
That gets the drill moving significantly (like e.g. close to half an inch) in comparison and you don't need to apply much pressure with this. It just needs relatively light contact. Think jackhammer.
Basically that is not really drilling but crushing the material in front of the drill and it is only rotating to get the crushed material out of the drill hole. You tend to find this only more on the higher end of cordless drills.
@M. J. Good points! I've leaned (a little) more recently so I can at least clarify the American terminology. Although, (as usual for English) the terminology is neither clear nor consistent. Pros who really know what they're talking about, when they say "hammer drill" they mean what you're calling the percussion drill. If they're talking about your real impact hammer drill, they call it a "rotary hammer drill" or simply "rotary hammer". Unfortunately, "hammer drill" is also used in general terms as the overall category of both types, which makes it confusing. And to make matters worse, lately many people have started referring to rotary hammers as "SDS drills" or just "SDS", which does make a certain amount of sense because a regular (percission) hammer drill should *never* use an SDS bit, but isn't really accurate at all, because not all rotary hammers have an SDS chuck and they can all use non-SDS bits.
But hey, that's English for you... where a parkway is for driving on, but a driveway is for parking on. 🤪
@@BillCoale Thank you very much for making this more clear to me. With languages you learn something new every day and this started out being a bit confusing to me.
Very much appreciated!
for storage in general i'd recommend to open the ratcheting chuck until the 3 thorns are covered by the chuck, for when it would fall and hit the drill/bit holder it won't become untrue/uneven.
For easy grab-and-go, I tend to store my drill/driver and a box of hex bits in a little basket hanging from the end of a shelf and I often try to store the drill gingerly so that I don't accidentally set the trigger on the box. Never dawned on me (until now) to set the forward/reverse switch in the "lock" position! Thank you! (And as others have commented, I've often thought, "I should learn what all these settings are", so thank you for presenting them all in a nice clear package!)
I always took out the battery until I saw this too 😂
Great for the translation in another language, this will help many new generations that lack bilingual abilities to get a better and proper idea of how to use many more tools and to prevent injuries, thanks for that LRN2DIY.😃
Thank you! As I was putting together a cabinet and hanging shades last weekend, I was looking at my drill and thinking, "I should really learn what all those different settings are for."
Great tips, I've been in construction over 30 years and have had many cordless drills I have a Milwaukee M18 now and didn't know about locking the chuck after tightening it. You can teach an old dog new tricks.
Trust me, you're not the only one. I do electrical, and it's hilarious how many guys lose their screw tips the moment they tip their screw gun down, because they didn't tighten it all the way.
Same here bro!@PaulGuy
FLIPPING OUTSTANDING VIDEO! There should be a scan code on every newly purchased drill to explain these features. Keep up the great work!
Care needs to be taken when tightening the chuck by gripping it and running the drill. Brushless motor drills have a lot more torque than standard brush motor models and tend to run faster. This can easily result in nasty friction burns to the hand if you are not careful, especially if you are doing it for the first time with a new drill.
Cinching the chuck has the zip clicking sound (shown) ,HOWEVER...... after doing so.... immediately counter rotate the chuck itself in the OPPOSITE direction slightly and it will make a LOUDER CLICK "locking" the bits in! useful with paddle bits etc that "wobble" then loose the chuck and fall out.
I learned that the hard way. Only did it once, and then never again.
I was familiar with all the features, but wasn't using the "correct" grip for the side handle on the drill. The way you hold it makes perfect sense to give resistance against kick back. Also, the impact driver cutaway is excellent. I kind of knew how they worked but to see it in action and in slow motion makes it much clearer. Great video.
I agree! Excellent tip for how to hold the handle! I have a drill with that handle and was never really sure what it was for. So I would just hold it with my arms parallel, and holding the drill forward away from myself. I would of course sometimes get kickback. Now I know!
i was shown core drilling concrete, not to put your thumbs around the handle or trigger. if youre drilling a big circumfrence with a high power drill it can kickback and break your thumb/s.
I've also learned that with high kickback items such as large hole saws you want to let the bit do the work rather than force it and always be ready to let go of the tool because it's better that the tool breaks than you.
I learned that the hard way as an apprentice. Drilling through a concrete reinforced floor, the Hilti I was using kicked and twisted my hand and tore ligaments which was painful for months afterwards. I learned to hold a drill so if it ‘kicked back’ it would twist out of my hands and not take my hand with it. I never thought of using the handle like a brace, that’s a good tip, but better for us right handed people due to the direction of the drill motion. 👍
For new DIYers, whenever you are changing the bits or sockets on your drill/impact, place the rotation selector on "lock" so you don't loose a piece of finger if you press the trigger and your sharp wood or metal drill bit starts spinning. Saved me a couple of times
...I feel dumb for even asking, but do you mind elaborating like I'm 8?
@@shea837 Make sure the sharp thing can't spin whenever your hand is touching the sharp thing.
@shea837 Make sure it can't spin when you press the trigger before changing pieces
Rings are a no no.
Exactly! Holding the chuck is for pros or fools!
I enjoy DIY but my tools have always been simple, basic things. I purchased a new drill recently that had all these extras that weren’t on my old one. It was like having to learn everything from the beginning again lol you answered a lot of my questions. Thank you so much.
Another feature that some don't notice; on many drills, the ring in front of the chuck is free to rotate independently from the chuck/bit assembly. It's useful if you need to hold the drill near to the bit, when accurately positioning drill tips - you can hold the ring (rather than somewhere behind the chuck) whilst slowly starting to turn the drill, to maintain better control so the bit doesn't walk across the surface.
It's also useful for preventing the chuck from marking the workpiece.
I noticed that but didn't know how it would help thanks for the tip
When working close to a corner, I use an angle drilling adapter. It prevents damage to the workpiece and has its own side handle to control the torque.
@@chriswilliams1096c😊tdddt
If you're using a TTI tool, (Milwaukee, Ridgid, Ryobi, Hart) the serial number will tell you when it was made. The first four numbers of the serial number after the letter portion , CS2135, for example, indicate that it was manufactured the 35th week of 2021. Might be helpful for warranty purposes.
I had no idea! Thanks for sharing!
@@LRN2DIY You're welcome. I repair power tools for my job.
@@eightyfourredwolf4121 which tools do you see less in your repair shop?
@@aidanbrennan7389 DeWalt and Makita. I rarely, if ever, see them. I get the occasional Milwaukee saw, but the overwhelming majority of my repairs are Ridgid and Ryobi.
@@eightyfourredwolf4121 My experience too as an owner. Never had a problem with Makita, DeWalt, or Milwaukee drills and drivers. Ridgid impact driver broke after one use and battery on drill was dead just after warranty expired. Took three months to get impact driver back from repair but it was covered by warranty. Bosch 10v driver (no longer made) broke after 10 years but batteries are still good. I did have a Milwaukee sawsall that needed repair after years of use.
I was aware of most of these features but I did learn something new today. I never understood about the top mounted 1-2 slide switch and what the difference is between a Hammer Drill and an Impact Drill. Thank you! Loved the cut out view making it a lot easier to understand.
The kickback handle trick works and as a left hander I switch the handle to the 3 o'clock side and hold the kickback handle at the 6 o'clock position. Same principle but left handed.
Your so freaking awesome, thank you for this video, I don't understand why the the manufacturers don't include this kind of stuff in the manual after all it is a MANUAL. I would love to see a whole series of videos from you on different types of tools sawzall, grinders, Sanders and especially oscillators there's like a million uses
Excellent tutorial! I always wondered what the difference between the impact and driver was. The cut away is nice to show that action. The main feature I didn't know about was the hammer and the use of the side handle. I would have never thought to hold it sideways so that if it kicks it hits my forearm.
Great info - reinforces what I've learned and helps to recall what I've forgotten or haven't used for a long time. Your presentation is succinct and enjoyable to watch.
I knew most of them but your down to earth explanations and fast paced earned a sub. Good video!
Very useful stuff here. I've been thinking all along the numbers were to regulate maximum speed and I thought the drill bit icon meant recommended setting for drilling. You learn something every day if you listen to experts. Also I had no idea about the self tightening chuck and have been struggling to get the clasp to grip a smooth drill giving myself wrist evil ! So thanks for these great tips.
Finally, someone explains this in plain english... Thank you sir, well done!!
I thought I knew how to use a drill and you just nail it 😉 I am now going to use my drill properly. Your tutorial was informative and dyslexic friendly well done
Very good hints especially for the home handyman who only uses a drill when a project arises and thinks you only but the bit in and press the drill expecting the right result for any task. Thanks
This video was perfect timing. I had just taken advantage of a sale at HD and purchased a Milwaukee brushless drill and a couple of lithium batteries. Got it home and realized I had no clue what all the dials and switches were for. NOW I'm dangerous! Thanks
Milwaukee is the best. Once you get enough batteries and chargers your set. Brushless is key.
Im getting a better understanding of the clutch system all these decades later ❤
Thanks for the break down, I always wondered what the numbers meant but never looked into it, mainly because I prefer my impact driver. But now I know!
I recommend you keep your thumb on same side as fingers as they grip the anti kick back handle.
I'm old enough to remember best practice procedures when starting cars with a hand crank. Kick back can dislocate your thumb if, when gripping, it is wrapped in the opposite direction to fingers around the handle.
As a home DIYer I’m always learning more by watching the pros here on TH-cam. Appreciate all the content.
Thanks for the clutch story on the screwdriver vs drill mode. Getting big screws into 4 inch posts is tough and I often don't want to predrill. Great video. Thank you.
Just explained every part of a drill I sadly still had questions over. 😂 Fantastic video!
Nicely done & well explained. 👍
For hammer drills I prefer a corded one. Cordless just doesn't have the power IMO.
Also, side note...don't try to drill into masonry with a non-hammer drill. It can be done, but you'll very quickly be hating your life, lol.
And going through drill bits
Same, I specifically bought a corded craftsman hammer/drill because this is old concrete around here, and as hard.
Don't use a hammer drill either, use an SDS drill for masonry.
Hammer drills are useless imo. Rotary hammer drill is my friend
LOL it literally took me a whole day to drill 3 holes into porcelain tiles (using carbide tipped bits on a regular drill) and then got a Hammer drill and it drills through porcelain tiles like butter :D so this comment of yours is super useful to a newbie DIY'er like myself.
Great Video. I relearned quite a bit and maybe learned a thing or two about the clutch that I wasn't aware of. A fantastic tutorial for the new user as well as a very good refresher for the experienced user. Thanks for posting this. I just became a subscriber.
Been doing a lot of my diy projects lately and your tips have been very helpful.
I had a rough idea based on intuition on all of these but it was good to know what they actually mean and learned something from each one. Great video.
Thank You for sharing for DiY's!! 🤜🤛
I thought I understood each of those features, but this was far more detail, great video. I was waiting to see a reference/contrast between drills and impact drivers.
Thanks, Scott. Yup - that video is coming soon too! Already recorded it'll be out in two weeks most likely.
Why would it take two weeks if it's been recorded.
@@kylerines3566 editing different views together so it is quick clean production instead of the terrible long ones that others try to “spit out”.
I already knew all of these features but still watched this video in the hope to learn something new 😅
Your demonstration is valuable.
Just wanted you to know you are appreciated.
Thanks for teaching
Great video. It was good to hear the features described along with why/when to use them.
No it wasn't don't listen to this guy
Great video. I'm on my 2nd Dewalt drill/driver. I bought Dewalt for commercial work I do. it's built to withstand heavy work whenever I need. I've used all those features before but for the home user, this video will be more informative. Have a great week!
I inherited a De Walt portable drill and love it. I rarely use my mains drill now. The ratchet chuck is a great feature, and the little spotlight does a grand job..
Excellent job on your instruction. I did understand the gear switching but was unaware of the torque difference. Thanks
Thanks for the info , I'm a ridgid fan myself so it's great to see ridgid products used in your videos. Great tips 👍
Biggest problem with those handles is losing them once you remove them. I couldn't find mine and did some permanent damage to my wrist. I recommend people always use them unless space doesn't allow for them.
I just store my handle at the charging station. I rarely need the torque that handle would be used for.
Good call. It would be pretty cool if manufacturers put a male blank of sorts on the side of the charger - a place that you could tighten the handle on to for safe keeping.
You can just use the handle as a pivot point; the side handles are more for hammer downward action which wouldn’t affect wrists in the first place
It is weird that they don’t have a threaded handle that can be direct to the housing like angle grinders
I just keep mine on most of the time
Seldom needed it, only had one kickback bad enough to twist my arm with the big Milwaukee 18V drill.
Great video! I didn't realize torque affected when drill disengaged. There have been a few times when I wanted something a little tighter and did the final twist or two by hand. I will have to check the torque next time! For switching bits in chuck, I use a quick-switch base that allows me to swap out standard bits in about 2 seconds. I think they are pretty common but might be good to point out in future video for others. Thanks!
Yep I think it is advicesable to check and make sure the machine have been set to it's correct setting..
You could do that but you could also use an impact if I’m understanding what you’re saying.
The problem with the clutch is that it's not a calibrated torque. Most of the time I need high or max torque anyway to drive screws so I generally keep it in the drill setting for that. I have an impact driver that I use to drive screws anyway so the torque settings have become moot.
Can you do a spoon?
This is a very useful refresher for guys like me who don't get to use their drill very often and don't feel like rereading the manual again to become reacquainted with all the features.
I'm happy to have your video in my feed this morning. I feel more informed about my power tools than ever before. I'm adding to your subscribers. Thank you.
Many keyless chucks also have a "locking" feature. Ratchet the chuck tight, then back off one click. You will feel and hear a different click than when tightening. This locks the pawls to prevent loosening the chuck when starting and stopping any drilling action.
And that's the other video he was talking about
Use impact drill for masonry and hammer drill for concrete. If you are drilling into soft bricks or hollow/semi-hollow bricks do not use impact as it will cause triangular holes (the drill bit is wandering from side to side).
When drilling into wood, steel or plastics use higher speeds for small diameter holes and decrease the speed as the hole diameter increases. Be careful with steel or aluminium as there is a risk of getting triangular holes as well.
@@dynevor6327 - Pilot holes will not help.
Drilled thousands of holes in masonry and can not remember ever drilling triangular holes. Always purchased & used high quality masonry bits made in USA . Did have problem about 35 years ago with a POS Grainger 1/2" chucked masonry drill that was probably 18" long making it a pain to drill holes on a extension ladder. Garbage drill appeared to have at least a 1/4" travel ( in & out ) that & no variable speed would dance around until hole was started. The extremely long hammering travel ate up the cheap bits that came in the plastic anchors kits. After a few months gave it away. On my third Milwaukee hand held 1/2" hammer drill and 4th large spline drive hammer drill..
Not claiming to be an expert, but as a tradesman working with all types of stone/brick/concrete, this claim doesn't seem to hold weight at all. May I ask your source/qualifications?
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp bosch is german im sure u used a bundle of them
@@dynevor6327 As an apprentice was told never drill a pilot hole in masonry but found if you used a 12 or 18" 1/4" masonry drill from inside of a house thru outdoor red brick then use the larger bit to install conduit or wire you never would get a large break out on face of brick.
Newbie--learning -thank you!
WHOAH!!! Thank you so much for this video. Ive been doing a lot of stuff wrong with my drill and now moving forward I know how to proceed.
Actually didn't know you could crank down a bit more by hand and further tighten around the shank. Looking forward to trying that lol. With hex shanks it's not really an issue for me but round shanks slip at times. I bet that little extra hand ratcheting would help. Cheers!
And once it's locked in place you turn it back a little bit and it'll lock it in place you hear an audible click
If you are worried about kickback then is safer to use the clutch as well rather than trying to use the extra handle and strength alone
Thank you for the video. All of these things are in the manual. I saw this video and then went to read the manual on my drill and found most of these features. Thank you!
A great lesson.Thank you from France.
I learned about hammer drills recently because I wanted to hang stuff out in my yard like shade sails. The problem is that I live in a house adjacent to a very tall brick wall so to hang the shades from that side of the yard I was going to have to drill through brick rather than wood. However, getting up on a ladder with a hammer drill didn’t seem like a good idea, especially since I’m not too experienced with power tools. So I got the idea to take loose bricks that match the wall and drilled through those-which were four holes in each of the three bricks I needed to attach the pad-eye plates-while in my garage safely. 😅 Then I just got up there on the ladder and laid the bricks with the plates attached to them on the top of the wall in a few different spots. I tried to make it look as inconspicuous as possible. 👌 I added a couple more regular bricks on top as well for the weight to hold up the shade sails.
I’m sure it’s not the optimal way to do the job but as someone who’s a novice with drills, especially hammer drilling, I think it’s a decent job I did. The sails have not fallen off the plates or even sagged as far as I can see and are still holding well with the turnbuckles.
Great idea but with a big wind if they come down you’ll have a shade cloth flapping around with a brick attached, you don’t need turnbuckles unless you’re really tensioning them. You can get carabiner clips that are designed to be the weakest link which you’d attach directly to the shade then your rope or turnbuckle to tension and then your house attachment point. I’ve worked in the shade sail manufacturing industry. I thought a bungy cord would be good. You don’t want it so secure it rips your house apart with a extreme weather event.
General rules:
Hammer mode for drilling concrte. Used with high speed 2.
Drill mode for drilling wood, plastic, tiles, metal. Either using low/high speed , but better to use high speed.
Drive mode , for driving screws, clutch feature is enabled here.
For metal always use slow speed
Thank you!!! Sat here with my drill and found out all the great features I've been missing!!!
Thank you for a simple and easy to understand guide. I didn't realise that a drill has so many functions
The common old drill has come a l o n g way since hand operated tools I knew as a young fella . So have battery powered drill (tools) but I would like to hear your thoughts for and against mains powered and battery powered drills while I reminisce about boring fence posts with a brace and bit for seven plain wires plus a barb wire stock fence (Australia) . Posts about 3 meter/10 feet apart so that's a lot of holes per miles/kilometer of stock fence ; but that's how it was done .
I still remember watching my grandparents house being totally built on site with hand tools only !! Yep; hand saws, brace and bits, hammer and nails ; and a lot of sweat; and blood .
I did that too in my long distant youth in SW Western Australia; we used jarrah and blackbutt fence posts, and boy was that a job. HOWEVER, the next bushfire that came through quickly taught us what a mistake it is to drill holes through wooden fence posts, at least in fire prone areas. Every one of those holes was a little chimney to let the fire in, and we lost the lot. The only posts that survived were the strainers and some posts that for some reason were not drilled: most of those were merely scorched. After that it was staples for everything.
Keyless chucks have a Lock feature on them.
After tightening the chuck, reverse the outer ring slightly until it Clicks.
That locks the barrel from loosening when you stop the drill that is spinning very fast from inertia.
glad someone said this. I was going to add this to the comments.
Got confused with all the modes; clutches; impacts etc. Had to replay ur vid almost 10 times. May take few moments to digest all ur info. Kudos for upload. Peace
I have the same Ridgid drill and love it. I knew when and how to use all these features, but didn't know exactly how they worked. I didn't know that the hammer action was any different than an impact and I didn't know that the clicks were a ratchet in the chuck. Thanks for the explanation!
I learned that 82 percent of people polled don't use their drill often enough to learn its features.
Isn't that the case with a lot of things? We have a tool/software/gadget that we use sometimes but not often enough to take the time to really understand, only to find out it has more powerful features than we ever knew about.
I'm assuming your other video is about locking the chuck after tightening if not then definitely an important tip to tell newbs
It is, indeed. I dug pretty deep into it and that will be out next week.
Sadly it's not just newbs that don't lock the chuck. I've seen a lot of chucks ruined this way because the drill bit started spinning and it wears out the jaws inside.
@@LRN2DIY yeah so many new ies and even a lot of pros don't know about this feature.
@@bmwh548 yes, I'm a super for a relatively large construction company and I see guys not locking the chicks all the time. Even the guys that have been doing it for decades
@@kentuckybeardsman I love a good typo. ;0)
I actually was just wondering about the numbers on my drill. Thank you for clarifying
Thank you. I make up things for my chickens a lot. Now because of your video, I should be able to use my drill properly. I will be watching more of your channel.
Thank you for this tips, I've learned today about the 2 gears torque vs speed. I do have a question, I have a Kobalt set of drill and impact and regardless what I use or how careful I am screws always stripped out and I end up with metal shavings and have to get new screws. Now I am careful so could there be a possibility that manufacturers used cheap materials to make screws?
Thank you.
Great question, Cristian. First of all - yes - some screw manufacturers use very cheap metal that is prone to fracturing, bending, etc. Second, the bit you use for the screw plays a big role, as well as the angle of attack. I actually have a whole video that discusses this issue if you want to check it out: th-cam.com/video/mDpZfk3l5MA/w-d-xo.html
ProjectFarm also has some great videos about the types of bits we use. Some bits just cam out quicker than others. Kinda depends on how the flutes are made and what they are made of.
@@LRN2DIY thank you, yes will watch it.
I thought the screws being softer than the tip was with purpose to extend the life of the tip
I note you mention the forward reverse button.
If you set it in the centre it locks the trigger.
Tip No 6 - leaving the forward-reverse button in forward or reverse position leaves you drill on standby you might say which drains the battery.
So if you don’t want the battery going flat while the drill is being stored in you bag put the drill into lock button mode which not only stops your drill accidentally turning on in your bag but turns the drill off which stops the standby mode draining your battery charge.
So when you pull your drill out of the bag it will be as charged as it was when you put it in.
Is it just me that does this or does everybody know about this.
No i didnt know that , TY
Nah I just tested that theory and the forward reverse button in the centre is still either forward or reverse, just you can't move the trigger.
Test it
Take a tool with a light built into it
With no battery on, squeeze the trigger.
Put tool in Forward, then put the battery on.
Take the battery off and press the trigger, the led will flash because the tool held some charge.
Keep squeezing till it stops
Put the F/R tab in the middle position so its "off"
Battery on, wait a sec, battery off
Put it in forward or reverse, you said it shouldn't have taken any power, but when squeeze the trigger the led lights up, but the battery was only on while the trigger was set to "off"
Take the battery off the tool when it's being stored...like all directions say to.
It takes less than 2 seconds to pull the battery and be safe and smart.
I learned that the hard way,couldn't figure out why my cordless drills were always dead when I needed one & by accident switched it to off & it did not drain the battery, LOL. old dog with new tools.
I think Dewalt must have changed that. I hardly ever put mine in lock and I let it set for weeks at a time with no problem. Thanks for the tip for tightening the bit.
I really enjoy his videos. He's thorough without any note of condescension. The one thing I wasn't aware of (to which he devoted a whole other video) was locking or tightening the chuck by turning it to the left when initially tightening the chuck. I'm aware not every chuck has this feature but it's helpful to know.
In his video about the Rohm chuck it would be useful if the manufacturers listed the brand of chuck amongst the drill's data.
I've had the privilege of teaching people who were totally oblivious to how to use a drill so there's a lot more to say about how to use one. As far as features go you touched on the trigger which can be used to vary the speed but noting some drills are great for this and others are very touchy and in the real world are no better than an on off switch. Corded drills some times have a stay on button for the trigger which on some models can be too easy to accidentally apply and therefore cause over drilling.
Great insights! There always more to cover so thank you!
I expected to learn something, but proud to say I did not. Thank you to my Grandfather and Father who have apparently taught me well.
Thank you for your tips! I do DIY at home, and still learning. 😊
clear, concise, complete. thanks.
Re: tip #2 using the ratcheting chuck. It is dangerous to tighten the chuck by turning the drill on. The following warning is on page 9 of the users manual for my Porter-Cable drill about how to use the keyless chuck.
WARNING: Do not attempt to tighten or loosen drill bits (or any other accessory)
by gripping the front part of the chuck and turning the tool on. Damage to the chuck
and personal injury may occur when changing accessories.
When I was at MIT back in the 80s I was working with a tech in the plasma fusion lab who decided to tighten a half inch drill bit by turning the motor on. He ended up with 4 stitches in his index finger when the chuck grabbed the bit. I had to administer first aid and call for an ambulance after he passed out from shock.
Craftsman also has this warning in the Manual.
In the past I've owned a hammer drill (don't recall the brand) that let you lock the rotating drill function and allowed a chisel to be put in the chuck to chip away at masonry like a small jack hammer. BTW a hammer drill like the ones you show are only useful for drilling brick and cinder block. They don't deliver enough impact to drill in concrete with a stone aggregate. As soon as the drill hits a rock , it will fail to drill further or it will deflect to the side in an attempt to go around the rock. Many people buy these to set anchors in their garage or basement floor and they just aren't meant for that use. They are more correctly called masonry drills and a rotary hammer is the tool required for drilling through rocks.
Great Video! I just recently started to do DIY projects and wondered about the features on my drill. Now I know, so THANK YOU !!!
Thank you. Ideal tutorial for women and our beginners
Really interesting. Never knew exactly how the hammer worked, didn’t really understand how to use the torque settings and I didn’t know they were inactive when in drill mode. Thank you
I am really glad I discovered your tutorial. I flinched when I remember the first time I used my drill in a block wall and realized my wrist was NOT stronger than the torque trying to snap it. Thanks for all your tips and teaching.
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The fact that you covered for left handed people….I subscribed
First time drill buyer here, didn't know about the clutch. Will look out for it when I buy one. Thanks!
Dang! You've saved me a ton of money. I was using my drills in hammer money by holding them by the chuck and hamming in nails with the handle. Thanks!
Thank you for your detailed explanation.
Thank you for a simple and clear explanation. I've been trying to figure out how to use a drill and this was the best video I've watched so far. Thank you. Now all I have to learn is what drill bit to use for wood, metal, etc.
Using the side handle at the 12 o'clock position was a cool tip, thanks. I knew everything else
I never knew the proper use of the handle. Kicking into instead of away from one's support hand is good advice. Thank you.
Really informative about gear speeds and torque settings. Thank you.
Thanks for the explanation. It wasn't in the manual provided with the drill, but now it's clear!
Thank you very much, this is a very helpful video for a novice!
Thank you 🙏🏽 been using these tools for years and never “exactly knew what was what. Now I know. That’s for the brief and detailed explanation. Need to do other power tools as well. 😜
Great educational video. I just bought my first hammer drill for hanging garage slatwall in concrete and wanted to understand all the settings. Many thanks.!!
I'd never heard of the electric clutch before so, definitely learned something here. Also, that ratcheting chuck feature, never heard of. I'm older so trying to learn & adapt. Great job explaining!
Thanks. Very informative. I didn't realize the drill mode was balls to the wall with no torque adjustment.
Im lucky YT suggested this video because I just got a Makita Hammer Drill today and you've explained a LOT. Ive never owned my own drill so Im pretty pumped to lean new stuff about it thanks.
Congratulations youve just been reported to TH-cam LOLZ!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you so much for making this video! I was wishing just the other day that I had someone who could explain these things to me. This kind of information is something I imagine most people learn from a family member, but those of us without mechanically inclined relatives (such as myself) have had to figure out ourselves until now.