This machine serves me very well. Thank you, Richard. I would also recommend everyone who anneals brass a webster hardness tester for being sure that the hardness of the brass is as soft as new brass.
Thank you Richard! I purchased one of these kit about a month ago. The design of the 3D printed parts is simple, thorough and neatly executed. It's clear that Richard had many hours sitting with CAD to work out all the fine details. I honestly can't believe that he makes any money at all to sell these at the price he does on Etsy; I'm guessing that he approaches this more as a donation to the shooting hobbies. I modified the case design just a bit to allow room to mount the speed controller still in its case and made my front plate from 1/8" aluminum, but other than that followed his very detailed instructions. My machine worked perfectly and delivered its first batch of very consistently annealed brass last week. Excellent job, thanks again!
This is absolutely awesome. The new modifications are a great upgrade. I'm glad work and my kids have kept me to busy to buy the last version I will definitely get this kit from you in the very near future. Excellent video showing the build process. You can tell a lot of thought and creativity when into your design and use of parts. Your a very talented man. Thanks again.
I too purchased this and am very pleased with the end results, works very well, i made mine 1 1/2" taller, wider and deeper, i also used laminated cedar plywood 1/2" then polyurethane inside and out, I had to make certain holes deeper as indicated by Jim in his instruction video, the on/off switch and the speed controller, i wish i could post i pic... Thanks Jim
Love the upgrades Richard! I hope to someday pick one up! The only thing I’d do, or rather, use differently, would be instead of using a nut to hold the drum on, I’d use a wing nut. For easier removal for adjustability. However, in watching more of the video, I realized that even though there’s room to adjust the drum, you will also have to adjust the brass stopper rod. Otherwise the drum will hit and rub against it. So depending on how much you adjust the drum, you may also have to adjust the brass stopper as well. I guess since you mentioned the competitors annealer that’s out there, I suppose with yours, and you touched on this earlier in the video, when you talked about cutting the drum to the correct depth or length, that if a person wanted and was concerned, they could simply buy another drum, or two, and cut them for/to whatever cartridge they needed. Because it’s not like the cake pans aka, drums, are super expensive. So that’s an option as well. Because while they aren’t falling off, they are sticking out or hanging over the edge of the drum quite a bit. Me, I would likely opt for getting and cutting another drum specifically for a/the longer and heavier caliber/brass cases. But then that’s just me.
Richard, purchased this last week and just finished getting everything installed. Really impressed with how well everything was laid out with the provided drawings. Great job and I appreciated the quick response to my question. The only thing I did different was I had an old steel road sign which I used and bent to the shape of your wood drawing. And since I wasn't dealing with the thickness of the wood I cut the full-size hole for the display, so it snapped into place. I strapped my dremel tool to a vertical bar and raised it the 1 3/8 inches and just rotated the pan to cut it. I debated on whether to build an induction annealer or to use the propane type but could build yours for half the cost of the induction one. Glad I came across your site.
Hi Richard. You could move over to a more heat resistant such as carbon fiber reinforced nylon and/or increase the infill (density) of the part to force more mass to be heated.
You are correct. I already print the the most susceptible parts at 100% infill and I am currently considering CF or nylon. I have never printed with them before but I'm going to give it a try. Edit: As of 21 Sep 24 the drum gear is printed in Carbon Fiber reinforced Nylon.
You can actually watch the video at 1.75 playback speed and not miss a thing while shortening the video time. I just ordered mine and am going to Amazon to buy the other parts now.
Hello Richard. First off what an amazing design you have come up with and thanks for sharing it! I want to ask I have had a look at the build guide PDF, that btw very well made! but I'm unable to locate the 3D printed parts. I would not mind buying them, but as they would need to be shipped to EU I feel the cost after shipping and import tex would be crazy high would I be able to buy the files so I can print it my self?.
Could you add Amazon links for the parts you recommend? I’ve been looking at different annealer devices and just ordered your kit. Thank you for your service and your creativity in putting together a very well thought out device. I can’t wait to receive the kit, put it together and put it to use.
Love your design and will be building the V3 for sure. I am half way through building the V2.2 and need the instructions as they have been changed to V3 on the Google docs file. If you could reupload them or forward them to me I would be very grateful. Keep up the good work.
You shouldn’t need to get the entire V3 kit. Unless of course you want to? 😬 Because you should only need to get the parts that are different to upgrade the V2.2 to the V3? Probably why Richard is asking you to send him your email? 😬
@@ronsorrentino6207 I took the V2.2 instructions down because I did not want people downloading the wrong file for the new product but I will email him he file. Also, my initial goal was to have an upgrade-able drop in kit but because I wanted to widen the kit by 1/4" every major part also changed. Of course all the mounting holes changed also. So, in the end, it is a completely new kit. I am toying with the idea of making an upgrade kit but it won't have all the new upgrades the V3 has because of the width limitation. It will essentially be a four bearing V2.2 design.
@@msgbean Gotchya. And I think you’ve succeeded in your efforts. Like I said in my reply, I hope to be able to pick one up. But every time I set money aside, something happens and I have to use it. :/
What a great tutorial! I don’t see a list or links to things like the motor, speed controller and power supply and adapter. Is that available somewhere? I’d like to price that stuff before I order your kit. Again, great tutorial!
Go here msgbean.etsy.com and the link to the instructions which includes links to the additional items you will need are in the description on the right side.
Can I also receive a copy of v2.2 instructions? I had most of the V1 stuff printed and read for ever and it kind of got put on the back burner. So I figured I'd go to the newest available and print whatever newer parts I need. You're designs are AWESOME! Is the V3 only available through the kit or will plans be for sale as well?
This is the only one I have come across: www.amazon.com/Hammond-Manufacturing-1456KH3BKBU-PANEL-CASE/dp/B005T8Z9G8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2O3TMSVHE0L7G&keywords=hammond+manufacturing+1456kh3bkbu+panel%2Fcase&qid=1660744044&sprefix=hammond+man%2Caps%2C571&sr=8-1 I have not tried it but it should work. You will just have to center the template on it the best you can since it is not the same size as my build. It also adds quite a bit to the expense.
I'm currently building an annealer out of metal for myself. I bought some Fat daddy's cake pans like you recommended but I noticed the roundness of the pans weren't quite true. So I found some stainless steel pans that are perfectly round and are really sharp cornered on the bottom. U mentioned the bunt corner on the Fat Daddy pan. Is stainless steel alright to use or does the aluminum grip the shell better making it spin more uniform? Thanks. BTW the pencil inside the book is a great idea
I have never tried stainless so I'm not sure if it will be too slick for the cartridge to spin or not. I think it will be fine as long as the holding arm is at about the 5:30 position. I try to make this kit as easy as possible for the average DIYer to do with home tools. SS would definitely be more difficult to work with than aluminum.
If the stainless is polished it may be a bit slick. You could always sand the walls with 220 or even 400 might be fine. The cool thing about stainless is it doesnt transfer heat so much and i also used stainless fasteners on the v2.2 design.
Oletko ajatellut julkaista tulostus datan? Tuotteen tilaus Eurooppaan on kohtuullisen kallista. Kiitokset aikaisemmasta versiosta toimii hienosti. Terveiset täältä suomesta
Well I wish I could send you a picture of my progress with my aluminum version of this. Thanks for everything, once I got all the hard work out of the way putting it together was a breeze, come to find out all the screws, nuts etc.. I had already including the metric from when I built and flew RC helicopters back in the day. BTW you mentioned in one of your videos about where you got your hose etc.. for propane, can you let me know, I like the idea Thanks
I would like to see it. You can email me at msgbean@gmail.com. I think the link to the hose is in the instructions. In any case here is the link: Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-59-in-Universal-Blow-Torch-Extension-Hose-361542/202539579 I'm glad you enjoyed the build.
This is the motor I use: amzn.to/3DVzMXc You can download and view the full instructions here: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1VdHdya34SW54LarFBRqWNyAnM1uqurCK?usp=sharing That document has links to all the additional parts you will need.
90% of the parts are different but the main difference is the 4 bearing design and no plastic touching the drum. The older versions also relied on the support of the case since they only used 2 bearings and the plastic gear spacer touched the drum and if used incorrectly could melt.
Because it is a DIY project and the more I do the more it will cost. I'm trying to keep the cost of the build as low as possible. Some people have some of this stuff laying around in their shop.
I beg to differ. Over 400 sold and no one has complained about the parts not lasting. And yes, metal would be preferred, but the cost would dramatically increase.
This machine serves me very well. Thank you, Richard.
I would also recommend everyone who anneals brass a webster hardness tester for being sure that the hardness of the brass is as soft as new brass.
I just finished building mine this afternoon. This video was helpful especially for the wiring part.
I just ordered your kit and waiting on its arrival. I’m really looking forward to putting it together this winter.
Thank you Richard!
I purchased one of these kit about a month ago. The design of the 3D printed parts is simple, thorough and neatly executed. It's clear that Richard had many hours sitting with CAD to work out all the fine details. I honestly can't believe that he makes any money at all to sell these at the price he does on Etsy; I'm guessing that he approaches this more as a donation to the shooting hobbies. I modified the case design just a bit to allow room to mount the speed controller still in its case and made my front plate from 1/8" aluminum, but other than that followed his very detailed instructions. My machine worked perfectly and delivered its first batch of very consistently annealed brass last week.
Excellent job, thanks again!
Cant wait to buy your kit. Excellent work on this. I look forward to your return from vacation.
This is absolutely awesome. The new modifications are a great upgrade. I'm glad work and my kids have kept me to busy to buy the last version I will definitely get this kit from you in the very near future. Excellent video showing the build process. You can tell a lot of thought and creativity when into your design and use of parts. Your a very talented man. Thanks again.
I too purchased this and am very pleased with the end results, works very well, i made mine 1 1/2" taller, wider and deeper, i also used laminated cedar plywood 1/2" then polyurethane inside and out, I had to make certain holes deeper as indicated by Jim in his instruction video, the on/off switch and the speed controller, i wish i could post i pic... Thanks Jim
Just ordered my kit today. Thanks Richard.
Love the upgrades Richard! I hope to someday pick one up!
The only thing I’d do, or rather, use differently, would be instead of using a nut to hold the drum on, I’d use a wing nut. For easier removal for adjustability. However, in watching more of the video, I realized that even though there’s room to adjust the drum, you will also have to adjust the brass stopper rod. Otherwise the drum will hit and rub against it. So depending on how much you adjust the drum, you may also have to adjust the brass stopper as well.
I guess since you mentioned the competitors annealer that’s out there, I suppose with yours, and you touched on this earlier in the video, when you talked about cutting the drum to the correct depth or length, that if a person wanted and was concerned, they could simply buy another drum, or two, and cut them for/to whatever cartridge they needed. Because it’s not like the cake pans aka, drums, are super expensive. So that’s an option as well.
Because while they aren’t falling off, they are sticking out or hanging over the edge of the drum quite a bit. Me, I would likely opt for getting and cutting another drum specifically for a/the longer and heavier caliber/brass cases. But then that’s just me.
Very nice. Awesome workmanship. The details. Easy to follow. Good luck and I hope you get a lot of requests.
Why thank you Panzer Kommandr😀
Richard, purchased this last week and just finished getting everything installed. Really impressed with how well everything was laid out with the provided drawings. Great job and I appreciated the quick response to my question. The only thing I did different was I had an old steel road sign which I used and bent to the shape of your wood drawing. And since I wasn't dealing with the thickness of the wood I cut the full-size hole for the display, so it snapped into place. I strapped my dremel tool to a vertical bar and raised it the 1 3/8 inches and just rotated the pan to cut it. I debated on whether to build an induction annealer or to use the propane type but could build yours for half the cost of the induction one. Glad I came across your site.
Thanks for the comment. That's the nice thing about being a DIY project. You have the freedom to do it your way and you did. Nice job.
Thanks Richard! I just placed my order and looking forward to the build!
Works great! Easy to build, as long as you pay attention and are careful with the measurements!
ingenious to say the least! Just purchased looking forward to the build. Thanks!
Hi Richard. You could move over to a more heat resistant such as carbon fiber reinforced nylon and/or increase the infill (density) of the part to force more mass to be heated.
You are correct. I already print the the most susceptible parts at 100% infill and I am currently considering CF or nylon. I have never printed with them before but I'm going to give it a try.
Edit: As of 21 Sep 24 the drum gear is printed in Carbon Fiber reinforced Nylon.
You can actually watch the video at 1.75 playback speed and not miss a thing while shortening the video time. I just ordered mine and am going to Amazon to buy the other parts now.
Just found this. It’s brilliant. Thank you.
Hello Richard.
First off what an amazing design you have come up with and thanks for sharing it!
I want to ask I have had a look at the build guide PDF, that btw very well made! but I'm unable to locate the 3D printed parts. I would not mind buying them, but as they would need to be shipped to EU I feel the cost after shipping and import tex would be crazy high would I be able to buy the files so I can print it my self?.
Could you add Amazon links for the parts you recommend? I’ve been looking at different annealer devices and just ordered your kit. Thank you for your service and your creativity in putting together a very well thought out device. I can’t wait to receive the kit, put it together and put it to use.
Mike by now you should have already received a reply from me to download the instructions. The links are in there.
Very very nice!
Love your design and will be building the V3 for sure. I am half way through building the V2.2 and need the instructions as they have been changed to V3 on the Google docs file. If you could reupload them or forward them to me I would be very grateful. Keep up the good work.
Send me your email
You shouldn’t need to get the entire V3 kit. Unless of course you want to? 😬 Because you should only need to get the parts that are different to upgrade the V2.2 to the V3?
Probably why Richard is asking you to send him your email? 😬
@@ronsorrentino6207 I took the V2.2 instructions down because I did not want people downloading the wrong file for the new product but I will email him he file. Also, my initial goal was to have an upgrade-able drop in kit but because I wanted to widen the kit by 1/4" every major part also changed. Of course all the mounting holes changed also. So, in the end, it is a completely new kit. I am toying with the idea of making an upgrade kit but it won't have all the new upgrades the V3 has because of the width limitation. It will essentially be a four bearing V2.2 design.
@@msgbean Gotchya. And I think you’ve succeeded in your efforts. Like I said in my reply, I hope to be able to pick one up.
But every time I set money aside, something happens and I have to use it. :/
Could you sell the plans only? I would like to avoid costly shipping.
You can download the plans but not the parts.
What a great tutorial!
I don’t see a list or links to things like the motor, speed controller and power supply and adapter. Is that available somewhere? I’d like to price that stuff before I order your kit.
Again, great tutorial!
Go here msgbean.etsy.com and the link to the instructions which includes links to the additional items you will need are in the description on the right side.
@@msgbean Thanks. I found your Q&A video with a bunch of links. Great stuff.
hi and thank you for your hard work i have downloaded your files for v2.2 is there a way i could get the bearing brace file please
The version 3 with the bearing brace is only for purchase at msgbean.etsy.com
@@msgbean I'm all the way in South africa and they don't ship to here hence I was wondering about the file for the v3
@@tashwillafrika3322 I have shipped my kits to South Africa.
Can I also receive a copy of v2.2 instructions? I had most of the V1 stuff printed and read for ever and it kind of got put on the back burner. So I figured I'd go to the newest available and print whatever newer parts I need. You're designs are AWESOME! Is the V3 only available through the kit or will plans be for sale as well?
Here are the instructions for 2.2: drive.google.com/file/d/1NGjf2z7qPKBUArE612uGd0dcwOC2F5PB/view?usp=sharing
Yes, V3 is only available for sale.
I have version 2.2 where can I get the print files and instructions for V3?
V3 is only for purchase. Msgbean.etsy.com
Hey Sarge,
Have you looked for a metal box that would accommodate your parts? I will be sending you an order. Like the center finding tool as well.
This is the only one I have come across: www.amazon.com/Hammond-Manufacturing-1456KH3BKBU-PANEL-CASE/dp/B005T8Z9G8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2O3TMSVHE0L7G&keywords=hammond+manufacturing+1456kh3bkbu+panel%2Fcase&qid=1660744044&sprefix=hammond+man%2Caps%2C571&sr=8-1
I have not tried it but it should work. You will just have to center the template on it the best you can since it is not the same size as my build. It also adds quite a bit to the expense.
Hi Richard can you ship to the UK, This is awesome, I really want to build one
I can. I've shipped to Norway, Malta, and Australia. However, the shipping is usually expensive. I think Norway was about $40.
03:19 pm How does a person contact for annealing kit ?
It's in the description. msgbean.etsy.com/
I'm currently building an annealer out of metal for myself. I bought some Fat daddy's cake pans like you recommended but I noticed the roundness of the pans weren't quite true. So I found some stainless steel pans that are perfectly round and are really sharp cornered on the bottom. U mentioned the bunt corner on the Fat Daddy pan. Is stainless steel alright to use or does the aluminum grip the shell better making it spin more uniform? Thanks. BTW the pencil inside the book is a great idea
I have never tried stainless so I'm not sure if it will be too slick for the cartridge to spin or not. I think it will be fine as long as the holding arm is at about the 5:30 position. I try to make this kit as easy as possible for the average DIYer to do with home tools. SS would definitely be more difficult to work with than aluminum.
If the stainless is polished it may be a bit slick. You could always sand the walls with 220 or even 400 might be fine. The cool thing about stainless is it doesnt transfer heat so much and i also used stainless fasteners on the v2.2 design.
Oletko ajatellut julkaista tulostus datan? Tuotteen tilaus Eurooppaan on kohtuullisen kallista. Kiitokset aikaisemmasta versiosta toimii hienosti.
Terveiset täältä suomesta
At this time I will not be publishing the files. Thank you for your interest.
How do I purchase one of these? Thanks
msgbean.etsy.com/
The stl on Thingiverse is missing the front cover for the gearbox. I printed everything and am missing that part. Did I miss something ?
No. That is my older V2.3. It has no front cover. I no longer support it. I only sell V3 which has the cover.
where did you get the torch with the hose on it that fits the small propane cans ?
Home Depot www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-59-in-Universal-Blow-Torch-Extension-Hose-361542/202539579
can you give an estimate of the materials cost?
Well I wish I could send you a picture of my progress with my aluminum version of this.
Thanks for everything, once I got all the hard work out of the way putting it together was a breeze, come to find out all the screws, nuts etc.. I had already including the metric from when I built and flew RC helicopters back in the day. BTW you mentioned in one of your videos about where you got your hose etc.. for propane, can you let me know, I like the idea
Thanks
I would like to see it. You can email me at msgbean@gmail.com. I think the link to the hose is in the instructions. In any case here is the link: Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:
www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-59-in-Universal-Blow-Torch-Extension-Hose-361542/202539579
I'm glad you enjoyed the build.
@@msgbean I sent it did you see?
I didn't see anything in my mail.
@@msgbean I’m gonna try again I might have left out the “s” in the email
I would like to know what motor you used. I assume 12v but what ampage and RPM or doesn't it matter?
This is the motor I use: amzn.to/3DVzMXc
You can download and view the full instructions here: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1VdHdya34SW54LarFBRqWNyAnM1uqurCK?usp=sharing
That document has links to all the additional parts you will need.
@@msgbean Thank you Richard, great machine.
will you be uploading .stl files for the V3?
At this time I will not be.
you mentioned about a kit. Can we buy one from you?
Yes. The link is in the description above. FYI, I will be out of town until 23 July.
Ok im sold! Where can i order a kit?
Msgbean.etsy.com
How much different is this from the original
90% of the parts are different but the main difference is the 4 bearing design and no plastic touching the drum. The older versions also relied on the support of the case since they only used 2 bearings and the plastic gear spacer touched the drum and if used incorrectly could melt.
I there way to buy commercial license for the v3 and get the stl files I am in South africa and would love to sell it this side
I think I will pass on that. There is no way to control that.
Can one buy this gearbox from you and if so how much?
The kits are available at msgbean.etsy.com/
Curious if you plan to update thingiverse from 2.2 to 3.0 thanks
At this time I do not.
When will you complete new batch?
They are there now.
@@msgbean Ordered. Thank you.
Why not sell the kit with all the box parts cut and drilled. Let the customer glue it up and add paint.
Because it is a DIY project and the more I do the more it will cost. I'm trying to keep the cost of the build as low as possible. Some people have some of this stuff laying around in their shop.
By the time you buy all the other parts I could just buy a premade one that is built much better.
Actually you would have to add $150 more to purchase the other brands
Sorry ! All the plastic parts will not last. All metal parts would last much longer.
I beg to differ. Over 400 sold and no one has complained about the parts not lasting. And yes, metal would be preferred, but the cost would dramatically increase.