Hey Justin, the 9c test is for sport climbing grades (french). So 7c+ is approx 5.13a (YDS) for sport climbing and if you're looking at bouldering, 5.13a crux is usually around V5/6 difficulty. V5/6 is aligned with your gym's black/red holds.
@@Justin_Ly also it is worthy to mention that the system is perfect for accounting for extreme values on either end. With a finger strength score of 1 you’re not gonna do a v5 or v6 no matter what you do.
@@er4din903 Yeah I was surprised that he was expecting(?) to be at V8 strength from that test and then not getting anywhere close to that level when actually climbing. Also never heard of anyone doing that test before even trying climbing, like technique and finger strength not playing a mayor role
Nice video ! having started bouldering a bit less than 6 months ago, I totally understand you :) Seeing yourself progressing, sending routes cleaner and cleaner, and mastering the different techniques is sooo satisfying hahaha Stay way from injuries and enjoy !!
Hey Justin! Nice job!! Very well done edit on this video and super cool to see your progression in climbing. I hope to see another climbing video from you soon 🙂
Awesome video Justin! Really interesting to see how much progress you can make in so little time :) Been looking for a new hobby for some time so it might be time for me to take up bouldering soon... Looking forward to your next video!!
Great video, especially for person without experience in climbing and TH-cam (Am i wrong though? Cause this video seems like you know what you're doing with editing, video structure etc.), happy to see it recommended to me. Looking forward to your content, subscribed and liked.
I'm 3 months into learning to boulder and relate to a lot of this. I have a lot of very, very good core, grip and finger strength from calisthenics training even scoring really high on the 9c test. I'm yet to see it make up for my lack of technique and intuition though! Good stuff man.
Nice video :) Always great to see people try climbing. Adding onto Brian Lee's comment: imperfect form is also considered an incorrect rep. eg: the slight bend in your knees at the L-sit/ the elevated left shoulder during the pull up (correct pull up starts with a full hang, then first a controlled scapular retraction instead of an almost swing into the start). Something to consider :) And yes it's a pullup ;) reverse grip is a chin up. Palms facing in chin up palms facing out pull up.
Hey Justin really cool and inspiring video, thank you for making and publishing it. Good perspective on how to mentally approach it from the beginning of the climbing journey.
@@Justin_Ly I'm actually an american married to a Sydneysider, so we climb there every week during the months I'm in country. I find it has better accessible-yet-cool-movement boulders for newer climbers like my wife than 9 degrees. We also climb at 9 Degrees and Climbfit, but Nomad is the best!
this is a great video, how do you like nomands boulders vs other gyms in sydney? personally blochaus is my favourite altough i've never been to nomand and the walls look great the crack looks sick
Hey! Thank you! I've just recently went to BlockHaus in Marrickville. I really enjoyed it, it was massive. Nomad is great! I prefer it over 9 degrees. It's a bit smaller compared to some others but it's in a good location. You should check it out for sure!
I began climbing in November in December I took strength test. my numbers was 1-3-4-3=11 points Today is March my numbers 3-5-6-6=20 it is pretty similar with you result. We should be able climb 7a+ and it is around V7-V8 bouldering grade. I can climb almost every single V5 in my gym, about half V6, and just some V7 and just once I sand V8 it was last week on citizen competition. Our problem the finger strength this test the most important for climbers focus on it. By the way it is great results after 6 months congratulations!
Just an fyi, the 9c test is for routes. Also, boulders (in Fontainebleau grades) are usually number+Capital letter (7A as an example), while french sport grades are number + lower case (in your case, 7b). 7b translates to 5.12b which has crux that are more around V4 (or 6B).
Hey, thank you!! 🙏 I climbed roughly 3 times a week. No, I didn't really do any additional hang boarding or weighted training as I'd often be too tired after a climbing sesh 😂. I'm thinking of doing 30 days of hang-boarding and do another 9C test to see if there are any significant benefits.
lol u already starting at a high grade :D i couldnt do any of those for the initial test and ive already bouldered for like 5 month, but only every 1-2 weeks once
Awesome video! I’ve been climbing about 4 months. I’m curious if you were lifting weights and doing pull ups at all during this time or did the additional strength come from only climbing?
Thanks, Troy! I didn't lift any additional weights during this time, just climbing approx 3 times a week. I think my arms just adapted to the additional load from climbing often. How is your experience so far?
I feel like finger strength is under represented in the 9c stregth test. Apart from maybe technique finger strength is the biggest determining factor in how hard you can climb and the difference that things like core and pulling strength make is pretty insignificant in comparison. It's why climbers like Dave Graham have been able to climb crazy high grades despite not being particularly physically strong.
Hey, I did do a bit of bouldering on and off for around 4 months, learning how to fall etc. I then had a 2 month break to travel and then decided to get a membership when I returned.😄
7b is a french sport climbing grade and is different from 7B with is a Font bouldering grade. So 7b != V8. It is closer to V4/5 (although comparing sport climbing and bouldering should be done with caution).
👍good video.... You will become better and better , if you analyse yourself...... look at you heelhooking ( Video at 4 minutes): you use the heelhook thats fine, but you can do so much better : the direction of toes /feet and also knee should be much more to the side and hips more open and to the wall...... power is good but flexability is as important for climbing Do you see now your mistakes in the video ? Do you understand what i mean? ( sorry for my bad english) Best Wishes
took me a while to get it but climbers are calling the meta(most effective tactic) beta so they can subtly shit on the people who do stuff the most efficient/easyest way.....
Yea I refuse to call it "beta." The correct term is meta. Literally every other thing in the world calls it meta, so why would climbing be any different?
![เปิดใจ “ต้นหอม ศกุนตลา” หลังโดนพาดพิงธุรกิจที่เคยทำ และผลกระทบทำถูกปลดฟ้าผ่า! | แฉ 24 ต.ค.67 [2/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vCi5OIqlxaE/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Justin, the 9c test is for sport climbing grades (french). So 7c+ is approx 5.13a (YDS) for sport climbing and if you're looking at bouldering, 5.13a crux is usually around V5/6 difficulty. V5/6 is aligned with your gym's black/red holds.
Ahh this makes a lot more sense!! Thanks for clarifying!! 👊
@@Justin_Ly also it is worthy to mention that the system is perfect for accounting for extreme values on either end. With a finger strength score of 1 you’re not gonna do a v5 or v6 no matter what you do.
@@er4din903 Yeah I was surprised that he was expecting(?) to be at V8 strength from that test and then not getting anywhere close to that level when actually climbing. Also never heard of anyone doing that test before even trying climbing, like technique and finger strength not playing a mayor role
also that test dosent take into account technique so it probably overestimated your starting level
Very impressive that you made so much progress in six months. Your video is also very well done!
Thank you Jonathan!! Appreciate the kind words!
Sick video Justin! I am thinking of starting Bouldering and this has really encouraged me! Would love to see more content :)
Thanks Massimo! Your words are the kindest!
Super strong - that’s awesome progress :) I hope to see more videos from you soon
Thank you so much!
Nice video ! having started bouldering a bit less than 6 months ago, I totally understand you :) Seeing yourself progressing, sending routes cleaner and cleaner, and mastering the different techniques is sooo satisfying hahaha
Stay way from injuries and enjoy !!
Thanks Antoine!! Definitely!! You too! Where about do you boulder? 💪
Hey Justin! Nice job!! Very well done edit on this video and super cool to see your progression in climbing. I hope to see another climbing video from you soon 🙂
Thank you so much!! I appreciate the support!! 🙏 1 year coming up!
@@Justin_Ly that’s great! So you’re planning a 1 year progression video?
Looks like a very cool climbing gym with a lot of well set boulders ^^. Also great progress made
Thank you!! It's great! Would recommend if you are ever in Sydney! 😁
this is a really well done video, ur prolly gonna get big
Thanks you!😀
You went bouldering for 6 month, there's a huge difference.
Awesome video Justin! Really interesting to see how much progress you can make in so little time :) Been looking for a new hobby for some time so it might be time for me to take up bouldering soon... Looking forward to your next video!!
thank you Mr Gupta. Bouldering is pretty hard, so maybe it’s time to reconsider 🤔. I always appreciate your support!
Awesome progress. Nomad is my favourite Sydney gym too :)
You are really underrated hope you blow up someday. Love from finland❤
Thanks mate!! Appreciate the support! 😊
Excellent video... it was great to follow your progress! Hope you're still enjoying your bouldering!
Thanks so much! You are doing great also! Yes, still enjoying bouldering almost coming up on a year now!
@@Justin_Ly That's great news!
If you enjoyed, please consider subscribing! Check out How I Learnt to Muscle Up: th-cam.com/video/YSYizPG-RTI/w-d-xo.html ! 😁
Great video, especially for person without experience in climbing and TH-cam (Am i wrong though? Cause this video seems like you know what you're doing with editing, video structure etc.), happy to see it recommended to me. Looking forward to your content, subscribed and liked.
I appreciate the support!! First video, but I watch a lot of videos so I generally know how to structure it!! Thanks!! 😁
Awesome progress! Keep it up
Thank you!! 💪
I'm 3 months into learning to boulder and relate to a lot of this. I have a lot of very, very good core, grip and finger strength from calisthenics training even scoring really high on the 9c test. I'm yet to see it make up for my lack of technique and intuition though! Good stuff man.
Thanks mate!! You've been doing some sick stuff!! 😃
@Justin Ly Thank you man! Putting a lot of work in on grip strength 💪
Nice video :) Always great to see people try climbing. Adding onto Brian Lee's comment: imperfect form is also considered an incorrect rep. eg: the slight bend in your knees at the L-sit/ the elevated left shoulder during the pull up (correct pull up starts with a full hang, then first a controlled scapular retraction instead of an almost swing into the start). Something to consider :)
And yes it's a pullup ;) reverse grip is a chin up. Palms facing in chin up palms facing out pull up.
Good point! Yes definitely a few errors made! Thanks for watching!! 🙂
Hey Justin really cool and inspiring video, thank you for making and publishing it. Good perspective on how to mentally approach it from the beginning of the climbing journey.
Thanks Gabriel. I appreciate the kind comment and support. 😊
Wow it took me 2 years before I could get a V5, that's really good progress! I haven't tried the climbs at Nomad though.
Thanks so much!! Are you from Sydney? What gym is your local? 😁
@@Justin_Ly 1-Up bouldering! I sometimes visit other gyms though.
Sick vid man, youve come on so far!
Thanks mate! Appreciate it!!
Thanks for the nostalgic trip through past Nomad climbs, it is my favorite gym in Sydney!
Thanks!! Do you climb at Nomad often
@@Justin_Ly I'm actually an american married to a Sydneysider, so we climb there every week during the months I'm in country. I find it has better accessible-yet-cool-movement boulders for newer climbers like my wife than 9 degrees. We also climb at 9 Degrees and Climbfit, but Nomad is the best!
Pretty impressive tbh, especially with no off the wall training or hangboarding
Thank you!! I definitely could've done a some hang boarding but I constantly found myself too drained after each session 🙂
great video man, would love to do a similar type video myself, editing style was sick and the way you went through it was a really well paced
Go for it Jacob! It was super rewarding to make this video!! Thanks!! 😁
this is a great video, how do you like nomands boulders vs other gyms in sydney? personally blochaus is my favourite altough i've never been to nomand and the walls look great the crack looks sick
Hey! Thank you! I've just recently went to BlockHaus in Marrickville. I really enjoyed it, it was massive. Nomad is great! I prefer it over 9 degrees. It's a bit smaller compared to some others but it's in a good location. You should check it out for sure!
Great video!
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it!
Small correction for the 9c test. I don't think it's a 2mm crimp but a 20mm. I was flabbergasted that you could even hold 5s on 2mm lmao
Hahaha yes! Good catch. I meant 2cm or 20mm crimp!! I don't think anyone can hold a 2mm crimp! 😃
I began climbing in November in December I took strength test. my numbers was 1-3-4-3=11 points
Today is March my numbers 3-5-6-6=20 it is pretty similar with you result. We should be able climb 7a+ and it is around V7-V8 bouldering grade. I can climb almost every single V5 in my gym, about half V6, and just some V7 and just once I sand V8 it was last week on citizen competition.
Our problem the finger strength this test the most important for climbers focus on it. By the way it is great results after 6 months congratulations!
Awesome 😄!! Great effort. Where abouts do you climb? Thanks so much!
Just an fyi, the 9c test is for routes. Also, boulders (in Fontainebleau grades) are usually number+Capital letter (7A as an example), while french sport grades are number + lower case (in your case, 7b). 7b translates to 5.12b which has crux that are more around V4 (or 6B).
@@simonmailhot-hebert4779 Thank for the info!! Its a bit confusing ahahah! I’m still a bit unsure need to research it a bit more. 😅
this is the gym that i go to regularly!
hahah awesome!! Say hi if you ever see me around!
@@Justin_Ly sure will!
That’s impressive growth! How often would you climb during these months? Did you do any additional exercises that would benefit your climbing?
Hey, thank you!! 🙏 I climbed roughly 3 times a week. No, I didn't really do any additional hang boarding or weighted training as I'd often be too tired after a climbing sesh 😂. I'm thinking of doing 30 days of hang-boarding and do another 9C test to see if there are any significant benefits.
if you can't measure, you can't improve. let's go!
💪!!
lol u already starting at a high grade :D i couldnt do any of those for the initial test and ive already bouldered for like 5 month, but only every 1-2 weeks once
I did boulder on and off for a bit before making this video however definitely put in a lot more effort over these past 6 months! Keep it up!!! 😀
Awesome video! I’ve been climbing about 4 months. I’m curious if you were lifting weights and doing pull ups at all during this time or did the additional strength come from only climbing?
Thanks, Troy! I didn't lift any additional weights during this time, just climbing approx 3 times a week. I think my arms just adapted to the additional load from climbing often. How is your experience so far?
Well done 👍
Thanks bro!🔥
I feel like finger strength is under represented in the 9c stregth test. Apart from maybe technique finger strength is the biggest determining factor in how hard you can climb and the difference that things like core and pulling strength make is pretty insignificant in comparison. It's why climbers like Dave Graham have been able to climb crazy high grades despite not being particularly physically strong.
I agree. It’s almost my fingers which tend to give first when climbing! 😅
How good of shape were you in at the start? How much climbing experience did you already have?
Hey, I did do a bit of bouldering on and off for around 4 months, learning how to fall etc. I then had a 2 month break to travel and then decided to get a membership when I returned.😄
nice vid man
Thank you!
Great video! Really well made and informational :D
Thank you!! 😃
7b is a french sport climbing grade and is different from 7B with is a Font bouldering grade. So 7b != V8. It is closer to V4/5 (although comparing sport climbing and bouldering should be done with caution).
Yes, I definitely still get confused on this ahaha. 😅 Thanks for the feedback! 🙏
how many days per week did you climb?
Hey, I was climbing around 3 times a week 😀
Good job bro
Thank-you!!
Urban climb looks a lot like this place. It’s also in Australia
Looks similar! But I don't think there is one in Sydney! 😁
Inspiring
💪
0:27 do you mean 2 cm crimp bcs, 2mm crimp?!?!
Yes ahaha 😅 Definitely not 2mm
👍good video.... You will become better and better , if you analyse yourself......
look at you heelhooking ( Video at 4 minutes): you use the heelhook thats fine, but you can do so much better : the direction of toes /feet and also knee should be much more to the side and hips more open and to the wall...... power is good but flexability is as important for climbing
Do you see now your mistakes in the video ? Do you understand what i mean? ( sorry for my bad english)
Best Wishes
Thank you!! Appreciate the tips! I'm definitely not flexible enough 😂
took me a while to get it but climbers are calling the meta(most effective tactic) beta so they can subtly shit on the people who do stuff the most efficient/easyest way.....
Yea I refuse to call it "beta." The correct term is meta. Literally every other thing in the world calls it meta, so why would climbing be any different?
🤜🏿 🤛🏻
🤜🏿 🤛🏻
Instresting