Just got the next FL910S filter for the 10,000 mile oil change already! Wanted to keep the changes at the OEM-recommended mileage, even though I could go another 2k. No issues at all with the car in that time. Tire rotation at 6,000 miles turned out to be a PITA as there's very few places to locate the four jack stands if using the pinch welds to lift with a hydraulic jack. The shielding underneath leaves very little structure exposed. Had to use the lower control arms at the front and 1 foot blocks of wood to raise my jacks high enough to locate on the frame at the rear, ahead of the bumper. The rear lower control arms are flimsy aluminum pressings and I don't suggest using them to sit on the rear jack stands!
You mentioned that in the manual the filter should be FL910S - could you please share which manual is that? I haven't found anything regarding what filter should be used. Thanks!
Agreed! My Daughter's Kia Forte has a hard plastic undershield with cutouts for filter and oil drain. The latter is even teardrop shaped for the oil jet!
Thanks for this video. I used to change my own oil, but since I turned 70, decided to let my Ford dealer do it. They will use my oil and filter (Mobil 1) and charge me $40 for the oil change and rotate the tires. After watching what is involved, I think it is a fair deal.
$40 for all that from a dealer? My GF bought her 2021 Escape Hybrid new a year and a half ago, 12k miles on it. She went back to the dealer this afternoon for an oil change. I'm on the phone with her right now and if she didn't still have some "Ford Dollars" she got when she bought it, and thus didn't have any out-of-pocket expense, she would have been PISSED! They charged $66 for oil and filter, another $40 for labor, and rotated her tires without asking. And you got all that for $40? Granted it was 8 months ago and inflation is rampant, but still, $40? Do you have some kind of deal with them? I'm here to find out what's involved with doing it myself. I change the oil myself on all my vehicles and farm equipment, and now I guess I'll start doing her car as well. I never take a vehicle to a dealer for anything. You usually pay a huge premium for repairs and maintenance. You must have something on the dealer.
@@davidbrittenham4631 No, I have purchased a number of cars from them and they have always been fair on the oil change labor charge. I have used Mobil 1 for at least 40 years and never had engine problems. I simply asked the quick lane staff if they would use my oil and filter and they said yes, and just charge me $40 for doing it. I was surprised when they kept the same price on the Escape Hybrid, with all of the extra work taking the panel off. I did make a mistake in getting a battery for my 2017 Escape at the dealer almost $200 and labor on top. Took my Fusion to Sams - $120 battery installed
I'm looking to exchange my gas-guzzling Ram 1500 Hemi for a Hybrid Maverick, but only after the first year's kinks have been worked out! LOL They didn't do too well with the Bronco launch.
@@AllenReinecke I'm totally with you there. Between the chip shortage, Bronco launch difficulties and recalls on the 2021 F150, I'm on no hurry to pull the trigger.
You know, at one time the yellow Ultra Ramps shown had optional red color ramp extenders made of some heavy duty PVC 'type" material that attached in the ramp holes at the end. I know because I still own the same ramps AND the extenders. Don't know why they don't still make them, because without them Ultra Ramps alone unusable on most of today's lower profile vehicles. I now also own a set of the Rhino Maxx ramps too. I like them a lot. Lighter than the Ultras. Good homemade ramp extenders. If there was much of a market, you could sell them.
To remove a seized oil filter puncture it right through with a pointy screwdriver. CAUTION HERE …..DO NOT HIT TOO HARD AS TO DAMAGE THE BOLT ON THE ENGINE BLOCK. An oil filter is made of thin steel and should puncture easily. Practice on an old filter if you’re not confident. Make sure you have room to apply torque in the right direction at least a 1/4 turn
Thank you for taking the time to demo the oil change, as I have a new 2022 Escape Hybrid and realize that I should change it before 3000 miles. One question, is it possible to see the oil filter from on top of the engine bay?
To take out an unruly filter I just puncture it with a medium length fine point screw driver . Being careful not to puncture anything else in the area. It’s messy because the oil leaks out but it always works. You just use the screwdriver as a wrench. Works like a charm.
Thanks for the great video. I have 2021 Escape Hybrid as well. I have a question though. The owners manual says to use 5W-20. And you are using OW-20. This is alright to do?
To be honest, I always struggle with understanding the complexities of oil viscosity ratings. I do know that if Ford recommends a specific multi-grade, use that. Many hours of engine testing went into proving that out for wear, cooling, control, cleaning and fuel economy. My first job was directing diesel engine tests on test beds! The rule is you can widen the viscosity band if you have to, but you shouldn't narrow it. So you can go lower on the first number and higher on the second. However, engines these days use the oil not just for cooling and lubrication, but for control. The correct viscosity is therefore even more critical. I stick with 0W-20 as that is what is on the engine filler cap!
I have a 2021 PHEV Escape. The specification for the 2.5l hybrid (PHEV and HEV) in the US is 0W-20. The 1.5l Ecoboost is 5w-20 and the 2.0l Ecoboost is 5w-30.
The hybrid variant requires ow-20. Non hybrid versions require 5w-20. Whatever is on your owners manual. Ford has all of their escape variants in one book so be mindful of that.
Agreed, as I worked in R&E for Cummins Engine; however I will NOT use Mobil Oil because Exxon would rather pay Attorneys than pay for the DAMAGE TO VALDEZ!!@@AllenReinecke
No lead foot! Use the EV Coach display and maximize the time in EV Mode by not exceeding 60kW. Sports mode prioritizes engine over electric for example. I also blip the throttle to force it back into EV Mode. Hysteresis in the system keeps the engine running once that is on. Dropping momentarily into recharge and then to power will switch back to electric if there's enough charge. I do that but my wife just drives. We get around 40 to 44 % EV on average and 44 mpg. Cold weather drops that into the upper 30's though.
Maybe, but you'll still have to go down below to get that oil filter. It doesn't look fun. If the filter were up top (relocation kit, anyone?) I'd be all for an extractor.
I have a 2012 Mustang and you can access the filter at the front of the V6 from the top of the engine bay (with the bottom of a trimmed windshield washer fluid bottle under it for the oil spill) and the oil drain is not above the hinged under-shield for oil filter access, but rearwards of it. I have used a fluid extraction pump once for that, but usually only use it for transmission and diff oil changes. On the Escape, there's no getting around removing the under-shield if you are going to change the filter. If I remember correctly our 2020 Honda CR-V could go every other oil change for the filter replacement, but I did it every time anyway. Clean, regularly-changed oil will allow an engine to last forever and is comparatively cheap compared with an engine rebuild!
@@michaelabbott8431 No. There's already a good one on TH-cam. He also has a video on the rear diff oil change. I'd do that every 30K also th-cam.com/video/tNs7va19a-8/w-d-xo.html
@@AllenReinecke I wonder why they don't mention the ptu maintenance/fluid change in the manual. Or I can't find it. And I called the ford dealer and they acted like they had no clue what I was talking about initially . They had to call me back after investigating. They quoted 280 $ for the one quart service.
Just my opinion, your way of using the ramps doesn’t look safe to me. The car should be driven up to the flat area of the ramps. There should be something in the rear wheels to prevent it from rolling back. If you have jack stands, you can set them up for additional protection.
The ramp is as safe as any ramp on gravel/dirt. The car height is at its highest on the auxiliary wooden ramp. I engage the rear wheel park brake and there's a chock under one wheel. If I drive further forward onto the steel ramp, it's problematic getting back onto the edge of the wooden ramp. There are 2 bolts engaging with the steel ramp's holes, but the wooden ramp will pivot on those with the tire on the front edge. As with any support, I heavily rock the car to check the stability. I've used this actual ramp system for 24 years without any issues. As you rightly point out - Safety first! 👍
@@AllenReinecke Sounds great. I came across your video while researching the Escape Hybrid or PHEV or my next purchase. I am a bit concerned about the undercarriage protection, especially for the hybrid/battery system. What do you think about the car's overall reliability after the years? Thanks.
@@TheHandsomebaby we have 65k on it to-date. No issues at all but for a front cover weep at around 40k. That was fixed under warranty but was still weeping at 50k. That was repaired again and at 60k, it was still weeping, though less than before. Trying to get a good seal with sealant is very tricky in the car as there's little room to slide the cover into place. There's still the engine fire recall but at 60k. I'm not concerned as the faulty crankshaft would have shown by now. The ride and driveability is very nice. Another couple years and we'll buy another hybrid. Maybe a Corolla Cross or a 2025 updated RAV 4 if it's more comfortable than the current generation. Not impressed with Ford and their current quality issues. Farley isn't a good CEO IMHO
@@AllenReinecke Thanks. I have a Highlander Hybrid and love everything about it. I am trying to find a second and smaller car. Corrolla and Corolla Cross are great but I hate to deal with Toyota dealers. A more electrified alternative like the Escape PHEV is very attractive. I will have to do more research. Thanks again.
Okay Alan the next time you change your engine oil will you please change your transmission fluid the manufacturers are so stupid they do not put in a fill tube like on the older cars so now we have to change the fluid is in a drain plug on the bottom change the filter and fill it on the side of the transmission case so if you can please show how that is done to us owners of Ford Escape hybrids that would be great thank you .
Not looked into the transmission yet. Next job is probably an early 15k PTU oil change, normally 30k. If the trannie is anything like my Mustang, I'll likely use my fluid extractor (suction + pump) and pull as much oil as possible out of the fill hole and replace with the same amount.
Had to have the dealer change what oil would drain out on our Outback. (6 qts/$211). Subaru makes it very difficult to change the CVT oil and tell dealers not to do it unless trannie needs rebuild. 100k warranty. They do want sealed for life! CVT can't be flushed and refilling needs special equipment. I was late at 163k, but best to do it at 120k. Had zero issues on that car, but for me changing rear wheel bearings at 130k and a MAP sensor at 150k. Oh and several failed headlamp bulbs that they ended up warranting for 10 years!
Transmission fluid change is recommended at 160 000km/100 000miles. Super easy on my car, civic though. Helps if you buy oil in a bag with a fine pouring tip, just add till it overflows usually. But check manual.
Hello Allen thank you for the reply , have you changed the transmission fluid on your Escape yet , you mentioned your Mustang on your Mustang were you able to put in a transmission dipstick tube and dipstick , the reason I ask Ellen it'd be so nice to have this on the Escape I have a Ford Escape on order in the color I want and everything and when I get it I want to be able to put in a dipstick and Tube because I go off-road so please let me know if you were able to put in a dipstick in a tube in your car and if so if you got part numbers I'll put the same thing in my car already Allen will thank you very much for the videos you're doing fantastic thank you .
In the video, yes. Since that ~2K oil change, I've changed the oil at each 10k odometer miles. That equates to about 5,600 engine miles since we run about 44% in electric-only mode.
@@michaelabbott8431 absolutely not. That's illegal. You have a right to DIY. You should follow OEM specs, keep receipts and a service record though, in case you do have a warranty claim. A record is useful to track issues (I even record all my garden equipment stuff! But then I'm an OCD engineer. 😂) I've changed the PTU oil early (critical oil change as it only holds about a quart of oil) and will do the rear axle at the next engine oil change. Fortunately, Ford has added easy fill and drain plugs on the Escape They used to not!
@@lukeWiz44 what is hilarious? 5W-20 is recommended for fuel economy only, but its high wear because of very thin oil. 10W-40 or 15W-40 or 5-40 or 5-50 for long engine life. Remember, its only RECOMMENDATIONS and not REQUIREMENTS, the difference is HUGE.
@@igor2030ign oh you weren’t joking… jeez. Dude, it’s not 1970 anymore. engines have changed. tolerances are a lot smaller, oil galleys and oil control rings on pistons have tightened. you try to run a 15 W 40, you will deprive the engine of oil. and my man, this isn’t up for debate, it’s literally scientific.
Just got the next FL910S filter for the 10,000 mile oil change already! Wanted to keep the changes at the OEM-recommended mileage, even though I could go another 2k. No issues at all with the car in that time.
Tire rotation at 6,000 miles turned out to be a PITA as there's very few places to locate the four jack stands if using the pinch welds to lift with a hydraulic jack. The shielding underneath leaves very little structure exposed. Had to use the lower control arms at the front and 1 foot blocks of wood to raise my jacks high enough to locate on the frame at the rear, ahead of the bumper. The rear lower control arms are flimsy aluminum pressings and I don't suggest using them to sit on the rear jack stands!
You mentioned that in the manual the filter should be FL910S - could you please share which manual is that? I haven't found anything regarding what filter should be used. Thanks!
I guess it was the owner's manual. Either way, that's the one you need.@@adrianspiridon
@@AllenReinecke Thanks, indeed this info is present in the Escape manual, but not in the Kuga one, even though it's the same car.
Interesting. 🤔
@@adrianspiridon I seen the FL910-S in the manual at Walmart
Excellent video... would have been nice if Ford would have put a access port in that engine cover like some other manufacturers do..
Agreed! My Daughter's Kia Forte has a hard plastic undershield with cutouts for filter and oil drain. The latter is even teardrop shaped for the oil jet!
Thanks for this video. I used to change my own oil, but since I turned 70, decided to let my Ford dealer do it. They will use my oil and filter (Mobil 1) and charge me $40 for the oil change and rotate the tires. After watching what is involved, I think it is a fair deal.
$40 for all that from a dealer? My GF bought her 2021 Escape Hybrid new a year and a half ago, 12k miles on it. She went back to the dealer this afternoon for an oil change. I'm on the phone with her right now and if she didn't still have some "Ford Dollars" she got when she bought it, and thus didn't have any out-of-pocket expense, she would have been PISSED! They charged $66 for oil and filter, another $40 for labor, and rotated her tires without asking. And you got all that for $40? Granted it was 8 months ago and inflation is rampant, but still, $40? Do you have some kind of deal with them? I'm here to find out what's involved with doing it myself. I change the oil myself on all my vehicles and farm equipment, and now I guess I'll start doing her car as well. I never take a vehicle to a dealer for anything. You usually pay a huge premium for repairs and maintenance. You must have something on the dealer.
@@davidbrittenham4631 No, I have purchased a number of cars from them and they have always been fair on the oil change labor charge. I have used Mobil 1 for at least 40 years and never had engine problems. I simply asked the quick lane staff if they would use my oil and filter and they said yes, and just charge me $40 for doing it. I was surprised when they kept the same price on the Escape Hybrid, with all of the extra work taking the panel off. I did make a mistake in getting a battery for my 2017 Escape at the dealer almost $200 and labor on top. Took my Fusion to Sams - $120 battery installed
Super film o wymianie oleju . Przyda mi się przy wymianie oleju w moim FORD KUGA HYBRID . Dzięki
Love the idea of writing down the torque settings. Thanks
This should be useful for when the new Maverick hybrid comes out, as I think it is the same drivetrain.
I'm looking to exchange my gas-guzzling Ram 1500 Hemi for a Hybrid Maverick, but only after the first year's kinks have been worked out! LOL They didn't do too well with the Bronco launch.
@@AllenReinecke I'm totally with you there. Between the chip shortage, Bronco launch difficulties and recalls on the 2021 F150, I'm on no hurry to pull the trigger.
Thanks for this, I’ll be taking my Hybrid Escape for its first oil change and was pleased to find your informative video… cheers 😎
You know, at one time the yellow Ultra Ramps shown had optional red color ramp extenders made of some heavy duty PVC 'type" material that attached in the ramp holes at the end. I know because I still own the same ramps AND the extenders. Don't know why they don't still make them, because without them Ultra Ramps alone unusable on most of today's lower profile vehicles. I now also own a set of the Rhino Maxx ramps too. I like them a lot. Lighter than the Ultras. Good homemade ramp extenders. If there was much of a market, you could sell them.
To remove a seized oil filter puncture it right through with a pointy screwdriver.
CAUTION HERE …..DO NOT HIT TOO HARD AS TO DAMAGE THE BOLT ON THE ENGINE BLOCK.
An oil filter is made of thin steel and should puncture easily.
Practice on an old filter if you’re not confident.
Make sure you have room to apply torque in the right direction at least a 1/4 turn
Once oil reaches operating temperature the oil is like water anyway.
As demonstrated when you drain warm oil.
The 0W only applies when start up.
Tip…..use an absorbent puppy pad under the drain pan to catch any spills.
Thank you for taking the time to demo the oil change, as I have a new 2022 Escape Hybrid and realize that I should change it before 3000 miles. One question, is it possible to see the oil filter from on top of the engine bay?
👍
You can clearly see the oil filter, but it's too far down to work on from above
Great video, very informative. 👍 And that poor hen...how big was that egg she was laying? 🤣
I also didn't see the low oil warning light when starting the combustion engine after changing the oil, and it didn't come on either
To take out an unruly filter I just puncture it with a medium length fine point screw driver .
Being careful not to puncture anything else in the area.
It’s messy because the oil leaks out but it always works.
You just use the screwdriver as a wrench. Works like a charm.
Punch a hole in the lowest point of the filter first, let the oil drain out, then it's not messy.
I was hoping you showed the dip stick in your video bc I'm having a hard time reading the levels in the 2020 escape dip stick
Thanks for the great video. I have 2021 Escape Hybrid as well. I have a question though. The owners manual says to use 5W-20. And you are using OW-20. This is alright to do?
i have a 2021 escape hybrid and it says to use 0w-20 under the hood of the car. but the 5w or 0w is just the temperature rating. both should be fine.
To be honest, I always struggle with understanding the complexities of oil viscosity ratings. I do know that if Ford recommends a specific multi-grade, use that. Many hours of engine testing went into proving that out for wear, cooling, control, cleaning and fuel economy. My first job was directing diesel engine tests on test beds! The rule is you can widen the viscosity band if you have to, but you shouldn't narrow it. So you can go lower on the first number and higher on the second. However, engines these days use the oil not just for cooling and lubrication, but for control. The correct viscosity is therefore even more critical. I stick with 0W-20 as that is what is on the engine filler cap!
I have a 2021 PHEV Escape. The specification for the 2.5l hybrid (PHEV and HEV) in the US is 0W-20.
The 1.5l Ecoboost is 5w-20 and the 2.0l Ecoboost is 5w-30.
The hybrid variant requires ow-20. Non hybrid versions require 5w-20. Whatever is on your owners manual. Ford has all of their escape variants in one book so be mindful of that.
Agreed, as I worked in R&E for Cummins Engine; however I will NOT use Mobil Oil because Exxon would rather pay Attorneys than pay for the DAMAGE TO VALDEZ!!@@AllenReinecke
I don’t know why the owners manual says to use 0w-30 when the filler cap and advance auto computer says 0w-20.
Hnm im about to change my 2022 phev which one should i do?
@@luisbolanosiii2625put in what it says to put in right on your oil cap.
great video
Thank you for this informative video
How are you getting so many miles electric?
No lead foot!
Use the EV Coach display and maximize the time in EV Mode by not exceeding 60kW.
Sports mode prioritizes engine over electric for example.
I also blip the throttle to force it back into EV Mode. Hysteresis in the system keeps the engine running once that is on. Dropping momentarily into recharge and then to power will switch back to electric if there's enough charge.
I do that but my wife just drives. We get around 40 to 44 % EV on average and 44 mpg. Cold weather drops that into the upper 30's though.
@@AllenReinecke what do you mean “blip” the throttle?
@@pdeblois1880 see where I said dropping into recharge momentarily
Recommended 2022 phev is 5w 20
Its recommended, not required!
Recommend for what? For fuel economy and early motor death.
@@nissetuta yes!
@@igor2030ign
5w is much safer than 0w.
0w-20 is much thinner for fuel economy
Thanks, very helpful. I will be doing my 2020 hybrid soon. May suction pump oil out from the top tho (quicker I hope). Happy Motoring!
Maybe, but you'll still have to go down below to get that oil filter. It doesn't look fun. If the filter were up top (relocation kit, anyone?) I'd be all for an extractor.
I have a 2012 Mustang and you can access the filter at the front of the V6 from the top of the engine bay (with the bottom of a trimmed windshield washer fluid bottle under it for the oil spill) and the oil drain is not above the hinged under-shield for oil filter access, but rearwards of it. I have used a fluid extraction pump once for that, but usually only use it for transmission and diff oil changes. On the Escape, there's no getting around removing the under-shield if you are going to change the filter. If I remember correctly our 2020 Honda CR-V could go every other oil change for the filter replacement, but I did it every time anyway. Clean, regularly-changed oil will allow an engine to last forever and is comparatively cheap compared with an engine rebuild!
Just curious. . Are you changing the fluid on the power transfer unit ? If so how often ?
I'd do first change on the Power Transfer Unit at 15k, then every 30k.
@@AllenReinecke are you going to do a video on that?
@@michaelabbott8431 No. There's already a good one on TH-cam. He also has a video on the rear diff oil change. I'd do that every 30K also
th-cam.com/video/tNs7va19a-8/w-d-xo.html
@@AllenReinecke I wonder why they don't mention the ptu maintenance/fluid change in the manual. Or I can't find it. And I called the ford dealer and they acted like they had no clue what I was talking about initially . They had to call me back after investigating. They quoted 280 $ for the one quart service.
@@michaelabbott8431 why I try to never use a Stealership!
Just my opinion, your way of using the ramps doesn’t look safe to me. The car should be driven up to the flat area of the ramps. There should be something in the rear wheels to prevent it from rolling back. If you have jack stands, you can set them up for additional protection.
The ramp is as safe as any ramp on gravel/dirt. The car height is at its highest on the auxiliary wooden ramp. I engage the rear wheel park brake and there's a chock under one wheel. If I drive further forward onto the steel ramp, it's problematic getting back onto the edge of the wooden ramp. There are 2 bolts engaging with the steel ramp's holes, but the wooden ramp will pivot on those with the tire on the front edge.
As with any support, I heavily rock the car to check the stability.
I've used this actual ramp system for 24 years without any issues.
As you rightly point out - Safety first! 👍
@@AllenReinecke Sounds great. I came across your video while researching the Escape Hybrid or PHEV or my next purchase. I am a bit concerned about the undercarriage protection, especially for the hybrid/battery system. What do you think about the car's overall reliability after the years? Thanks.
@@TheHandsomebaby we have 65k on it to-date. No issues at all but for a front cover weep at around 40k. That was fixed under warranty but was still weeping at 50k. That was repaired again and at 60k, it was still weeping, though less than before. Trying to get a good seal with sealant is very tricky in the car as there's little room to slide the cover into place. There's still the engine fire recall but at 60k. I'm not concerned as the faulty crankshaft would have shown by now. The ride and driveability is very nice. Another couple years and we'll buy another hybrid. Maybe a Corolla Cross or a 2025 updated RAV 4 if it's more comfortable than the current generation. Not impressed with Ford and their current quality issues. Farley isn't a good CEO IMHO
@@AllenReinecke Thanks. I have a Highlander Hybrid and love everything about it. I am trying to find a second and smaller car. Corrolla and Corolla Cross are great but I hate to deal with Toyota dealers. A more electrified alternative like the Escape PHEV is very attractive. I will have to do more research. Thanks again.
@@TheHandsomebaby Good luck! I don't like Toyota dealers either!
Okay Alan the next time you change your engine oil will you please change your transmission fluid the manufacturers are so stupid they do not put in a fill tube like on the older cars so now we have to change the fluid is in a drain plug on the bottom change the filter and fill it on the side of the transmission case so if you can please show how that is done to us owners of Ford Escape hybrids that would be great thank you .
Not looked into the transmission yet. Next job is probably an early 15k PTU oil change, normally 30k. If the trannie is anything like my Mustang, I'll likely use my fluid extractor (suction + pump) and pull as much oil as possible out of the fill hole and replace with the same amount.
Had to have the dealer change what oil would drain out on our Outback. (6 qts/$211).
Subaru makes it very difficult to change the CVT oil and tell dealers not to do it unless trannie needs rebuild. 100k warranty. They do want sealed for life! CVT can't be flushed and refilling needs special equipment. I was late at 163k, but best to do it at 120k.
Had zero issues on that car, but for me changing rear wheel bearings at 130k and a MAP sensor at 150k. Oh and several failed headlamp bulbs that they ended up warranting for 10 years!
Transmission fluid change is recommended at 160 000km/100 000miles.
Super easy on my car, civic though.
Helps if you buy oil in a bag with a fine pouring tip, just add till it overflows usually. But check manual.
Hello Allen thank you for the reply , have you changed the transmission fluid on your Escape yet , you mentioned your Mustang on your Mustang were you able to put in a transmission dipstick tube and dipstick , the reason I ask Ellen it'd be so nice to have this on the Escape I have a Ford Escape on order in the color I want and everything and when I get it I want to be able to put in a dipstick and Tube because I go off-road so please let me know if you were able to put in a dipstick in a tube in your car and if so if you got part numbers I'll put the same thing in my car already Allen will thank you very much for the videos you're doing fantastic thank you .
Was this your first oil change?
In the video, yes. Since that ~2K oil change, I've changed the oil at each 10k odometer miles. That equates to about 5,600 engine miles since we run about 44% in electric-only mode.
@@AllenReinecke just out of curiosity. Does changing the oil yourself void your warranty?
@@michaelabbott8431 absolutely not. That's illegal. You have a right to DIY. You should follow OEM specs, keep receipts and a service record though, in case you do have a warranty claim. A record is useful to track issues (I even record all my garden equipment stuff! But then I'm an OCD engineer. 😂)
I've changed the PTU oil early (critical oil change as it only holds about a quart of oil) and will do the rear axle at the next engine oil change.
Fortunately, Ford has added easy fill and drain plugs on the Escape They used to not!
@@AllenReinecke if there's a spare tire in the back. Where is your 12 volt battery?
@@michaelabbott8431 under the spare tire, in the center of the wheel well. There are posts in the engine bay for jump starts/charging.
Fuel economy=early motor death.
Normal oil 15W-40 = long Motor life.
You choose the option.
BAHAHAHAHA 15w-40 THATS HILARIOUS
@@lukeWiz44 what is hilarious?
5W-20 is recommended for fuel economy only, but its high wear because of very thin oil.
10W-40 or 15W-40 or 5-40 or 5-50 for long engine life.
Remember, its only RECOMMENDATIONS and not REQUIREMENTS, the difference is HUGE.
@@igor2030ign oh you weren’t joking… jeez. Dude, it’s not 1970 anymore. engines have changed. tolerances are a lot smaller, oil galleys and oil control rings on pistons have tightened. you try to run a 15 W 40, you will deprive the engine of oil. and my man, this isn’t up for debate, it’s literally scientific.
@@lukeWiz44 ok...
No more conversation. Bye.
@zerocryption if you want to take the risk, fine. my car is still under warranty. 0w20 it is.