Good information ! I've used the same size (6048) for the last 18 years and am very happy with the choice of Central Boiler. No problems the whole time. I do burn green wood and cut logs about 4 foot long. Efficiency losses of burning green are offset by way less handling/cutting using longer lengths and no splitting and stacking effort. Green hardwood burns very well as long as you maintain a good bed of coals. I fill the firebox full and only once a day even when it is below zero. Best decision ever.
So far you've made all good decisions for your home. I imagine a lot of people end up just pushing the ashes to the back of those units until it's way too much lol. Take care!
Nice one. I have been watching this from the start, and it just gets better. The boiler may not be the most efficient but a simple reliable design. Not much to go wrong. If you want to test it at its rated power, fill it with the offcuts of timber from the house build. Kiln dried or pallets is always good for proving power output. All the best to you.
Good update and review! I too have heated with wood for several decades, never with this method. Having low cost fuel or access to hardwood would be key in my area. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Thanks for the tips, tricks and advice posting. I did pick up some stuff from this. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year....From Jakob over in SE London in the UK....
That is efficient heating. I would have thought it will lose a lot of heat just standing in the cold. Thank you for the update. I hope you and your family have Merry Christmas and new year
Get a regular 20" box fan, set of low speed pointing at the heat exchanger from the far wall and just let it run. It'll slowly move the warm air and make your set up more efficient when your main fan isn't running. Fellow Buckeye here.
Anything you can do with your system to allow a large heat buffer is advantageous (that heavy mass of concrete is perfect). Putting that hot water through a glycol exchanger to put hot glycol in your floor will work well. Don't just use water especially in a cold climate, use a master kit with a pump and reservoir. (I'm in Alberta, Canada) For your upstairs heating; We did nail up transfer plates and then put 6" of 1/2 pound spray foam, both to stiffen the floor and keep the heat moving up. What a labour pain, works great, floors are quiet, tonnes of glycol in the floors allow smooth heating, keep your loops tight (2 per truss space). If I was to do it again, I'd do the nail down system, add a extra bottom plate on my framing and pour 1.5" of plasticrete on top. It would be SOOO much easier to do.
Hey! Nice and informative video as always @Wolf Pup Fab. I know it will be a good evening when I get a notification that you posted a new video. One question tho, have you looked into geothermal heating? We have it as a reliable source for heating here in Sweden. It saves all that work with “gathering”/splitting/burning wood. It’s a bit pricy to install but it makes up for it in comfort. I used to have an old flex-burner that I could burn both oil and wood. Although my system didn’t regulate the fire in that manner that your outdoor burner is doing. But man when I changed that old burner out, it was a dream. Anyway thanks for the content. I can’t wait for spring and more house building. 😬👍🏻
Oh man. Wheels are turning. In Indiana. Been running all electric heat for about 4 years since my heat pump went out. Needless to say, I may as well be lighting money on fire. Also have close to an endless supply of wood. Feel like I should put one of these in...
You're so right about using the best insulated pex underground. Mother Earth will suck every BTU she can from your heating system. I used to sell HVAC and ranchers would want to heat their dirt-floored barns or arenas with radiant heat and I had to tell them they would be wasting their money.
I know some guys that heat thier large shops with radiant floor and outdoor boilers and I don't think you'll need to add the pex to the first floor. Once that concrete gets up to temp it makes the room pretty dog gone toasty.
I would greatly appreciate an answer to a couple questions. Do you know the temp of the return loop at the boiler? Also, what is your thermostat set at inside your house? Thanks. I can’t wait for the spring when you can start building. Love the channel and I’m a subscriber.
I don’t know the temperature of the return loop I haven’t checked that yet. The thermostat in the house is set at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Thanks for watching👍
Good video content! I would like to basically the same thing. Find a good used boiler and like a few others have done install a Beckett burner on the door and used it to burn waste motor oil. I have basically an unlimited supply of good clean waste oil. But also the ability to burn my own wood.
Good video. You say there is water running through the boiler and underground. I would have thought you would have to use glycol so it does not freeze if you are not using the boiler (away skiing for a week)? And with the slow smokey fire is creosote buildup an issue/ I saw lots when you showed inside the firebox door...
Actually, the ashes insulate the fire from the cold water and thereby make it burn a bit more efficient, if your smoke heat exchanger is big enough, that is. With the size fire your running in that big box it most likely is. so more ashes underneath means in this configuration, more heat from the same wood into the water, and less out the chimney... but we're talking like 5% maybe, probably way less. Depending on your heat exchanger design and such. The physics behind this is, that you want the fire to burn inside a fireclay chamber, so it burns at its absolutely highest possible temp, which will lead to a burn with almost no ash, and then take the heat out of the exhaust gases after it leaves the fireclay camber... Those exchanges surfaces therefore stay clean, and in the end, you fire 20 cords and have a shovel of ashes and no stove cleaning. Not like 2 cords and half a skidsteer bucket full, and lots of carbon buildup on the fire box surfaces insulating the fire from the water, like you have it right now, thats all the energy you did not get.... but thats in the design of those big lumpy old fire boxes.... if you really want to get top-notch stuff, go talk to Austrian wood stove builders, but they may not give you all the paperwork for code compliance in the US.... I tried to import one to Canada, and I failed miserably to import a 15% more efficient and way cleaner burning oven due to code requiring some paperwork the manufacturer cant supply as they dont intend to sell any time sooon to the Americans, all the way from Isla Hornos Chile to Nunavut Canada... I dont understand that either, but then, thats their business decision, not mine. a recommendation: i would cycle the circulation pump with the fan motor. no need to heat the ground for 75% of the time your fans not taking heat out of the radiator (you said its only running like 15 mins in an hour...). no matter how well insulated the underground pipe is.... just for comparison: we insulate with 10 inches and more between ambient and outside, and seldom see below freezing temps. so i personally would consider that underground pipe to be terribly bad insulated. my own roof has 81cm of insulation, 22 between the rafters, 8 on top, then the wind barrier, and then a rain tight, compressed, wood wool, 50cm thick layer, on top, underneath the rafters i got 2 cross glued layers of 1/2" OSB and some MDF paneling.... so were talking about in excess of 30 inches of insulation here, for a mostly 25K temp drop... your water is 175 to 50, its a 125F (70K) temp drop and you got what, 3 inches on a 30m run? brrr, looks like your wood is for free, but i dont consider logging and splitting my hobbies, so i would not think of it as for free. by cycling the circulation pump you cut out on all the losses while the fans not run for heating, well thats not entirely true as the probably 3 gallons in the pipe will cool to 50f, but better that than keeping it hot constantly. Those outdoor boilers would really anoy me on serveral levels. first every time you open that door your head is inside a smoke plum... and your smelling like your a fire pit worker all winter long. probably good if you dont like showering, but then, i know of no women that would want THAT on the sheets next to her... second, to tend to it, you have to leave the comfy warm building, just imagine your sick with what ever, whos going to fire that outdoor boiler for you, you on crutches in 3 ft of snow and ice, while a blizzard comes down? thanks but no thanks, thats not for me. hope it works for you though. :-) I like your factuall content. keep it coming.
I know the ones with the wood gasification boilers use 50% less wood that the classic boilers and depending on where you live, the Gasification boilers may be mandated because of the emissions standards of the state or local area. since 2020 the EPA has limited 2.0 grams per hour of particle matter discharge from the flue on the wood boiler. Now indoor wood stoves are allowed 4.5 grams per hour of particle matter discharge, which are viewed as an occasional use device. The area where my Cousin lives they can not use a classic style of wood boiler and are required a wood gasification boiler which has a 85% to 90% efficiency, and her area the city test the flue gas discharge to see if complete combustion is being achieved, and She lives in New Hampshire. They also do not allow the burning of brush in her area, and if you have tree limbs or other wood waste, you call the city and they will send a chipper and chip it up, and the wood chips are used to heat the local school that has a commercial wood gasification boiler to heat the school with, which has a scrubber on the flue. It all depends on the area where you live as many state and local governments are putting tighter restrictions on outdoor wood boilers. Lumnah Acres in northern New Hampshire has a gasification boiler and they heat their whole house on about 1.5 cords of wood a year, as it also supply the hot water for their house in the summer, and it has very little discharge out of the smoke stack. The have a HeatMaster outdoor. What I have notices is the cost of the style of boiler you have is not much different that that of a wood gasification boiler. as the prices are comparable.
Good information ! I've used the same size (6048) for the last 18 years and am very happy with the choice of Central Boiler. No problems the whole time. I do burn green wood and cut logs about 4 foot long. Efficiency losses of burning green are offset by way less handling/cutting using longer lengths and no splitting and stacking effort. Green hardwood burns very well as long as you maintain a good bed of coals. I fill the firebox full and only once a day even when it is below zero. Best decision ever.
Nice. Good to hear you’ve been happy with it for so long. I hope I have the same experience
I've been watching your build videos with a lot of interest.
You deserve a thumbs up for ambition and trying to do things the best way.
Thanks I appreciate that👍
Agree with your reasoning and analysis, looks like a good setup and you're getting confirmation you've done it properly!
Thanks👍
Thanks for the update! Good stuff. You have a good narration voice/style. Like this channel.
So far you've made all good decisions for your home.
I imagine a lot of people end up just pushing the ashes to the back of those units until it's way too much lol. Take care!
Nice, you are doing a fantastic job.
Nice one. I have been watching this from the start, and it just gets better. The boiler may not be the most efficient but a simple reliable design. Not much to go wrong. If you want to test it at its rated power, fill it with the offcuts of timber from the house build. Kiln dried or pallets is always good for proving power output. All the best to you.
A video treat just before christmas, love it. Have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you and the Supervisors
Thanks for keeping us up to date.
Good update and review! I too have heated with wood for several decades, never with this method. Having low cost fuel or access to hardwood would be key in my area. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Thanks for the tips, tricks and advice posting. I did pick up some stuff from this. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year....From Jakob over in SE London in the UK....
Thanks you as well
That is efficient heating. I would have thought it will lose a lot of heat just standing in the cold. Thank you for the update. I hope you and your family have Merry Christmas and new year
The water jacket around the boiler is insulated. Thanks!
Another excellent video thank you. You really make us Ohio boys look smart. lol.
Thanks! Somebody has to do it
Lumna acres has a outside side stove . Check them out. Looking forward to you finishing the house 🏠
I just installed the thicker aluminum plates under subfloor in my home, works awesome! Very comfortable, old furnace is off and will stay that way.
Get a regular 20" box fan, set of low speed pointing at the heat exchanger from the far wall and just let it run.
It'll slowly move the warm air and make your set up more efficient when your main fan isn't running.
Fellow Buckeye here.
Merry Christmas Wolf Pup Crew!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Big bear hugs from Kenny in NW Ohio!!!!!!!!!
Good morning ! Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Thanks Merry Christmas to you!
Cool vid I was wondering how it was working 👍🏻👍🏻Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 🎄
Weather looks lovely😮
Reminded me to go check my insulated pex in the basement. Thank you, and take care
Your dogs are adorable ❤
Anything you can do with your system to allow a large heat buffer is advantageous (that heavy mass of concrete is perfect). Putting that hot water through a glycol exchanger to put hot glycol in your floor will work well. Don't just use water especially in a cold climate, use a master kit with a pump and reservoir. (I'm in Alberta, Canada) For your upstairs heating; We did nail up transfer plates and then put 6" of 1/2 pound spray foam, both to stiffen the floor and keep the heat moving up. What a labour pain, works great, floors are quiet, tonnes of glycol in the floors allow smooth heating, keep your loops tight (2 per truss space). If I was to do it again, I'd do the nail down system, add a extra bottom plate on my framing and pour 1.5" of plasticrete on top. It would be SOOO much easier to do.
Nice. Good information
Hey! Nice and informative video as always @Wolf Pup Fab.
I know it will be a good evening when I get a notification that you posted a new video.
One question tho, have you looked into geothermal heating? We have it as a reliable source for heating here in Sweden. It saves all that work with “gathering”/splitting/burning wood.
It’s a bit pricy to install but it makes up for it in comfort.
I used to have an old flex-burner that I could burn both oil and wood. Although my system didn’t regulate the fire in that manner that your outdoor burner is doing. But man when I changed that old burner out, it was a dream.
Anyway thanks for the content.
I can’t wait for spring and more house building. 😬👍🏻
Oh man. Wheels are turning. In Indiana. Been running all electric heat for about 4 years since my heat pump went out. Needless to say, I may as well be lighting money on fire. Also have close to an endless supply of wood.
Feel like I should put one of these in...
Look good like your setup and vision. Suggest a small lean-to or open post fram over the boiler from my wood storage and protection for boiler
Yes I have some plans in the future for something like that
Cool, thanks for this. I'm thinking about how I'm going to heat my shop. This might be the solution I'm looking for.
You're so right about using the best insulated pex underground. Mother Earth will suck every BTU she can from your heating system. I used to sell HVAC and ranchers would want to heat their dirt-floored barns or arenas with radiant heat and I had to tell them they would be wasting their money.
Excellent idea as a temp way to heat your house
I know some guys that heat thier large shops with radiant floor and outdoor boilers and I don't think you'll need to add the pex to the first floor. Once that concrete gets up to temp it makes the room pretty dog gone toasty.
I would greatly appreciate an answer to a couple questions. Do you know the temp of the return loop at the boiler? Also, what is your thermostat set at inside your house? Thanks. I can’t wait for the spring when you can start building. Love the channel and I’m a subscriber.
I don’t know the temperature of the return loop I haven’t checked that yet. The thermostat in the house is set at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Thanks for watching👍
Good video content! I would like to basically the same thing. Find a good used boiler and like a few others have done install a Beckett burner on the door and used it to burn waste motor oil. I have basically an unlimited supply of good clean waste oil. But also the ability to burn my own wood.
Thanks. Yes I have seen that before. I also believe Central Boiler makes a unit like that from the factory ready to burn oil. Muti-fuel
Winter Sucks, merry X-mas.
Good video. You say there is water running through the boiler and underground. I would have thought you would have to use glycol so it does not freeze if you are not using the boiler (away skiing for a week)? And with the slow smokey fire is creosote buildup an issue/ I saw lots when you showed inside the firebox door...
I just have to make sure the fire doesn’t go out and keep the pump running. Creosote does build up, a lot of it burns off but that is just part of it
Enjoying your vids of house build and etc. one suggestion. Get longer handled hoe and shovel for the outdoor boiler.
I'm heating a large farm house with the original wood fired gravity furnace uses a lot of wood but doesn't require power to run
What do you have the thermostat set at?
I'm impressed, I thought that heat ex-changer fan would be running non stop.
It’s usually at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. I am also surprised
@@Wolfpupfab That's impressive, and your making enough heat that it could get a lot colder and you'd be fine.
Actually, the ashes insulate the fire from the cold water and thereby make it burn a bit more efficient, if your smoke heat exchanger is big enough, that is. With the size fire your running in that big box it most likely is. so more ashes underneath means in this configuration, more heat from the same wood into the water, and less out the chimney... but we're talking like 5% maybe, probably way less. Depending on your heat exchanger design and such. The physics behind this is, that you want the fire to burn inside a fireclay chamber, so it burns at its absolutely highest possible temp, which will lead to a burn with almost no ash, and then take the heat out of the exhaust gases after it leaves the fireclay camber... Those exchanges surfaces therefore stay clean, and in the end, you fire 20 cords and have a shovel of ashes and no stove cleaning. Not like 2 cords and half a skidsteer bucket full, and lots of carbon buildup on the fire box surfaces insulating the fire from the water, like you have it right now, thats all the energy you did not get.... but thats in the design of those big lumpy old fire boxes.... if you really want to get top-notch stuff, go talk to Austrian wood stove builders, but they may not give you all the paperwork for code compliance in the US.... I tried to import one to Canada, and I failed miserably to import a 15% more efficient and way cleaner burning oven due to code requiring some paperwork the manufacturer cant supply as they dont intend to sell any time sooon to the Americans, all the way from Isla Hornos Chile to Nunavut Canada... I dont understand that either, but then, thats their business decision, not mine.
a recommendation: i would cycle the circulation pump with the fan motor. no need to heat the ground for 75% of the time your fans not taking heat out of the radiator (you said its only running like 15 mins in an hour...). no matter how well insulated the underground pipe is....
just for comparison: we insulate with 10 inches and more between ambient and outside, and seldom see below freezing temps. so i personally would consider that underground pipe to be terribly bad insulated. my own roof has 81cm of insulation, 22 between the rafters, 8 on top, then the wind barrier, and then a rain tight, compressed, wood wool, 50cm thick layer, on top, underneath the rafters i got 2 cross glued layers of 1/2" OSB and some MDF paneling.... so were talking about in excess of 30 inches of insulation here, for a mostly 25K temp drop... your water is 175 to 50, its a 125F (70K) temp drop and you got what, 3 inches on a 30m run? brrr, looks like your wood is for free, but i dont consider logging and splitting my hobbies, so i would not think of it as for free. by cycling the circulation pump you cut out on all the losses while the fans not run for heating, well thats not entirely true as the probably 3 gallons in the pipe will cool to 50f, but better that than keeping it hot constantly.
Those outdoor boilers would really anoy me on serveral levels.
first every time you open that door your head is inside a smoke plum... and your smelling like your a fire pit worker all winter long. probably good if you dont like showering, but then, i know of no women that would want THAT on the sheets next to her...
second, to tend to it, you have to leave the comfy warm building, just imagine your sick with what ever, whos going to fire that outdoor boiler for you, you on crutches in 3 ft of snow and ice, while a blizzard comes down? thanks but no thanks, thats not for me.
hope it works for you though. :-) I like your factuall content. keep it coming.
Is there an option to reduce the amount of particulates going into the air?
Keep that wood ash for the garden 🪴
Nice ,,, How big is a chord ???
Around 600 pieces of split wood
What temp are you setting the Tstat in the house?
70 degrees Fahrenheit
there wood isnt dry..thats why they go thru it so fast
I know the ones with the wood gasification boilers use 50% less wood that the classic boilers and depending on where you live, the Gasification boilers may be mandated because of the emissions standards of the state or local area.
since 2020 the EPA has limited 2.0 grams per hour of particle matter discharge from the flue on the wood boiler.
Now indoor wood stoves are allowed 4.5 grams per hour of particle matter discharge, which are viewed as an occasional use device.
The area where my Cousin lives they can not use a classic style of wood boiler and are required a wood gasification boiler which has a 85% to 90% efficiency, and her area the city test the flue gas discharge to see if complete combustion is being achieved, and She lives in New Hampshire.
They also do not allow the burning of brush in her area, and if you have tree limbs or other wood waste, you call the city and they will send a chipper and chip it up, and the wood chips are used to heat the local school that has a commercial wood gasification boiler to heat the school with, which has a scrubber on the flue.
It all depends on the area where you live as many state and local governments are putting tighter restrictions on outdoor wood boilers.
Lumnah Acres in northern New Hampshire has a gasification boiler and they heat their whole house on about 1.5 cords of wood a year, as it also supply the hot water for their house in the summer, and it has very little discharge out of the smoke stack. The have a HeatMaster outdoor.
What I have notices is the cost of the style of boiler you have is not much different that that of a wood gasification boiler. as the prices are comparable.
Thanks for the information. Some of that I didn’t know. I enjoy Lumnah Acres videos
Maybe you should invest in a mask for when you remove the ash in the future. By the way, ash makes good compost if you're into gardening.
Are you sure that you aren't heating cold water? In my house I have a cold-water heater.
if you spritz the ashes with just a lil water you wont have a cloud of ash to breath in every time
You probably won’t even need the radiant heat tubes on the 1st floor. I bet the basement floor will cover the whole house
That’s what I am thinking but I won’t know for sure until I try it
108 0:05
Get some cheap masks
Or one good one
Please learn to use metric units so that the entire civilized world can understand what you are talking about!
Not my choice, talk to the Untied States Government
Very rude…. Smart ass