Lmfao 😂😂 I cant believe he asked if you guys where doing drugs😂😂 no dis respect but you two don’t cross me as big ol druggies. lol. Besides that happy you didn’t get messed with too bad. Very cool test. I bet the real test will have to be roll racing. Any plans on going back to the track soon?
Well we got some data to benchmark the stock brakes now. I really wanted to make sure the Ali express kit doesn’t cause issues with the way the abs is calibrated. These tests on stock brakes although we have distance and heat numbers, it’s really not working the brakes that hard. But more so the abs system. And yeah we had no idea, the abandoned road we were doing the brake tests on is apparently used for other forms of product testingz
Zero To 60 ok my bad for some reason I forgot you started testing the stock brakes so now time to install and test China 🇨🇳 brakes... no disrespect to anyone
Great vids I really look forward to these! Even though I probably wouldn’t risk this kit due to the heads up y’all have in the other video it is still cool to see the outcome.
the emissivity of the polished rotor surface is not defined it could be 0.3 it could be 0.5 hard to know, you need to measure something that has a more predictable emissivity closer to 1 that the ir gun is calibrated for, this requires a matt surface like a painted or anodized surface or a non reflective surface, this is why the center part of the rotor was hotter, you were measureing a more matt surface with emissivity closer to 1, as the mid part of the rotor would clearly be hotter, also you can put a piece of lets say masking tape and stick it on the rotor then measure the masking tape for example provided it doesn't burn up, after repeated 100 km stops the rotor was likely actually at like 200-300 deg C so be careful, even a black felt marker will work to get a much more accurate reading, just make a big black dot on the rotor and measure only that dot
Hi there you need to do 3-4 repeated hard stops without getting out to check the temps as this will let you know what sort of pad compounds you actually have if braking gets better with temps eg 3rd stop is quicker you have a hard compound pad like bendix ultimates and if stops get slower you are either getting severe brake fade or a very soft compound and then you are able to make the decision as to whether change your pads to suit your driving style
@@ZeroTo60Tube just near the abs module in engine bay could see the leaking fluid and damaged line. Easy fix but I'm cautious braking hard in any car now
Loving the 'fake brake' series, you know they will be identical to the real ones, all production is auto, pretty simple to get hold of the programs and out they pop! Ive worked there so know how they roll..
I wouldnt bet on them being the exact same. Im sure the company i bought them through would take some short cuts if they can to save a few dollars. But im hoping for what i do with the car the difference between these and the real ones is not noticeable.
You guys should look into how to actually use an infrared temperature gauge, what the emissivity factor is, how the cone shapes the measured area and things like that. :)
A lot guys runs single turbo built N54 running +800whp on stock caliper and rotor they're very strong and powerful as matter of fact they almost use same rotor and caliper size for e9x m3 but little bit slightly bigger can't tell though. However 1 series does have 6 piston caliper which are made by brembo. You seriously don't need bbk for n54 platform. You can get the 1 series caliper though and it is also direct fit with no modifications needed.
Im guessing you didn't see the previous brake video where i explained exactly what you just typed haha. The upgrade i'm doing is more of a cost vs looks thing. Also fulfilling my curiosity on the cheap brake kits.
It does i have a spread sheet with all the distances in from the 4 stops. Although we were not working the brakes that hard, i really want to make sure that the abs system works at least as well with these china brakes that it did with the standard ones.
It’ll be interesting to see when ur proper hooning about if these calliper seals last with the amount of heat that you’ll put through them, time will tell, fingers crossed though they stay good, don’t want no ditch diving going on 🙈
I would say several, from 200-100 kph at least or else you are just arousing the rotors. Build some proper heat into the rotors to find the limit. I know that Aussies have it a bit more difficult with all the anti-hoon stuff, but for comparing the thermal capacity of rotors of that size, 100kph won't cut it. I did a similar upgrade on my 330d derv and went from 330mm (EBC USR rotors + EBC yelllow stuff) to a 370mm (F30 Zimmermann rotors + EBC yellow stuff + ss braided lines) with Msport/M2 calipers 370/380 4 pot brembos and the difference on repeated braking is pretty considerable. The tire becomes the issue when the pads get some proper heat.
Anyone find the link to the same package that had the same markings on the rotors? All I found were regular slotted or cross drilled. Maybe he got lucky. Maybe after he installs them and they are okay, he will let someone know which package so we can get “blank” calipers instead of the name brand.
@@ZeroTo60Tube look forward to it, interested what pads they were. I had hawk hps+ on my e90 328xi (sold off for my x1 35i) they were superb, especially once they heated up.
I’m going to jump on the bandwagon here are points out that Bmw has been building cars for a while now and have learnt a thing or two about hauling up a sports sedan from 250 on an autobahn. Driving in Germany is a real eye opener and gives you an appreciation for what these cars are capable of. I know a lot of gear comes out of China and can be exceptional quality but how do you know and verify this. They might look cool from the outside but I’m more concerned about what they look like on the inside and whether after 30000km they’re going to work when needed.
That’s it I completely agree. I have data on the stock brakes now. Although this wasn’t even really testing the stock ones that hard. It was more so a test of a real emergency stop while driving on the road. I really want to be sure that the Ali brakes don’t mess with the abs system.
I am not aware of a BMW that had larger brakes on the rear than the front. The fronts will always heat up first. As weight transfers under braking, the rear tyres wouldn't get traction if the brakes were rear biased.
Hey guys this is a bit off topic but just chasing some advice. I'm running full bolt on's on a 2008 e90 335i and have just flashed with MHD stage 2+. The turbo's in the car are in very good condition with very little waste gate rattle. Should I select the waste gate rattle delete option available in the tune, and if so where best to position the slide bar? It seems to have waste gate worded at the lower scale end and lag at the other end. What do you guys know of this, any info or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
The wastegate rattle fixes are all a case by case thing so it may take some tweaking. My understanding is that the dme will hold the wastegates further open when off boost. The further open they are the less likely they will rattle, however it also means they need to move further to close and create boost. Definitely have a play with the settings and compare response and rattle. I spent ages with my stock turbos and the JB4 version of this setting. Luckily with the JB4 you can adjust while driving. However even tho, the best result i got was manually adjusting the wastegate rod. That might be something to look in to if you can't quieten it down enough with the MHD settings.
Guys, if you put so much money and effort into it, then why go easy on the brakes? Lots of euro cars run 250+ if you let them and the OEM brakes are able to bring them back to zero safely. That's the benchmark you should keep in mind. The chinese brakes need to cope with that kind of heat to be a worthy replacement. Cheers.
Well unfortunately can’t rest that safely yet. I wanted real world emergency stop data on the stock setup first, which we now have. I am concerned that the Ali kit will affect the abs calibration. And to be fair these test in this video is more so a test on the tyres and and abs than the brakes. But that’s what is doing the work during normal road driving.
Exactly they are the biggest problem on track, even AP racing bbk included pads need to go to the bin if you track it. Pagid or Endless pads is the way to go.
I have stock brakes and they do just fine on track where I'm constantly braking from high speed of rates they do just fine of course with a track brake pad compound . You guys don't need these brakes for drag racing its seriolusly over kill and a waste of money . You will break the tire friction with those brakes and not even using them at their full potential . I have an e90 n54 with stock brakes and track pads I get no fade and they do very well at track and track is way more demanding on the brakes than roll racing or drag racing . You seriously could of spend that money on drag wheels and slicks
Even if they didn't need it, this is an Ebay built car. In the video showcasing the brakes he stated that it was just the better deal to get BBk instead of refreshing what he had. And above all that this is content that they bring to the channel sooo that's cool. Also this comparison will show if its worthy or not the upgrade. Very likely they'll still gonna get better tires and wheels after the brakes = more content = happy viewers
You’re either lying or stupid mate. Stock 335 brakes will start to fade on a track. An M3’s brakes will start to fade when being driven hard enough. These are a massive improvement and with good tires will yield better breaking results.
@@mrpoopybutthole6314 you probably dont even have a bmw and never even had a track day of driving or any autocross. and you just regurgitate what everyone says . 😂 you wish buddy
Cop👮 you boys aren't doing anything illegal 🚫 Andrew_Dave 👦💂 err not today! - do you come here much? 😆 😆 Nothing to see here, just some draggy and G, want some officer?
We get pulled over the one time we are actually doing brake tests..... It really never occurred to us that another type of individual would also want to use an abandoned service road at night time.... haha. Dont blame them for being suspicious. But they really didn't believe out story that we were just doing some driving....
Lmfao 😂😂 I cant believe he asked if you guys where doing drugs😂😂 no dis respect but you two don’t cross me as big ol druggies. lol. Besides that happy you didn’t get messed with too bad. Very cool test. I bet the real test will have to be roll racing. Any plans on going back to the track soon?
Well we got some data to benchmark the stock brakes now. I really wanted to make sure the Ali express kit doesn’t cause issues with the way the abs is calibrated. These tests on stock brakes although we have distance and heat numbers, it’s really not working the brakes that hard. But more so the abs system. And yeah we had no idea, the abandoned road we were doing the brake tests on is apparently used for other forms of product testingz
Zero To 60 ok my bad for some reason I forgot you started testing the stock brakes so now time to install and test China 🇨🇳 brakes... no disrespect to anyone
Can't wait to see the brake fitting video now
Great vids I really look forward to these! Even though I probably wouldn’t risk this kit due to the heads up y’all have in the other video it is still cool to see the outcome.
the emissivity of the polished rotor surface is not defined it could be 0.3 it could be 0.5 hard to know, you need to measure something that has a more predictable emissivity closer to 1 that the ir gun is calibrated for, this requires a matt surface like a painted or anodized surface or a non reflective surface, this is why the center part of the rotor was hotter, you were measureing a more matt surface with emissivity closer to 1, as the mid part of the rotor would clearly be hotter, also you can put a piece of lets say masking tape and stick it on the rotor then measure the masking tape for example provided it doesn't burn up, after repeated 100 km stops the rotor was likely actually at like 200-300 deg C so be careful, even a black felt marker will work to get a much more accurate reading, just make a big black dot on the rotor and measure only that dot
My thoughts as well.
Good explanation!
Actually impressed someone else knows their way around a thermal camera, or in this video a cheap ir gun
Yes. What he said ☝️
I came down to the comments to make sure someone pointed this out before I wrote anything. You covered it nicely.
Hi there you need to do 3-4 repeated hard stops without getting out to check the temps as this will let you know what sort of pad compounds you actually have if braking gets better with temps eg 3rd stop is quicker you have a hard compound pad like bendix ultimates and if stops get slower you are either getting severe brake fade or a very soft compound and then you are able to make the decision as to whether change your pads to suit your driving style
thanks for all your videos guy really helpful with the information you give along with the entertainment
Whoa! Never been this early...where do I start? I want to first thank Go....🤣😂🤣
😂 Well I think you beat me to the comments section 😅
Nice!! Keep it coming!
Good idea to check your ABS lines for leaks after those stops, I've popped a couple over the years braking hard in the 5.
Stay safe guys!
When you say ABS lines, which ones have you had pop?
@@ZeroTo60Tube just near the abs module in engine bay could see the leaking fluid and damaged line. Easy fix but I'm cautious braking hard in any car now
There goes your insurance points with all that hard braking lol. Love the vid bro!
Loving the 'fake brake' series, you know they will be identical to the real ones, all production is auto, pretty simple to get hold of the programs and out they pop! Ive worked there so know how they roll..
I wouldnt bet on them being the exact same. Im sure the company i bought them through would take some short cuts if they can to save a few dollars. But im hoping for what i do with the car the difference between these and the real ones is not noticeable.
You guys should look into how to actually use an infrared temperature gauge, what the emissivity factor is, how the cone shapes the measured area and things like that. :)
Brakes seem to be performing really well. 😉
Yeah the stock calipers with some upgraded pads and rotors will be fine for most of us on this platform. But damn those “Brembos” do look goooood 😂
Jay B. Don’t they just! I want em haha next upgrade maybe 🤔
Good viedo guys.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks man, and thanks for checking out the vids and commenting, we really appreciate it.
Would be interesting to see what the stock ones did a 100-0kph in
A lot guys runs single turbo built N54 running +800whp on stock caliper and rotor they're very strong and powerful as matter of fact they almost use same rotor and caliper size for e9x m3 but little bit slightly bigger can't tell though. However 1 series does have 6 piston caliper which are made by brembo. You seriously don't need bbk for n54 platform. You can get the 1 series caliper though and it is also direct fit with no modifications needed.
Im guessing you didn't see the previous brake video where i explained exactly what you just typed haha. The upgrade i'm doing is more of a cost vs looks thing. Also fulfilling my curiosity on the cheap brake kits.
I wish it was that cold in the south east UK right now. Sweating my balls off watching this.
I have the same problem with the rozzers and my full black BMW. :D
Good stuff gents, always coming out with good content. Does the draggy capture the distance traveled from 100-0 km/h?
It does i have a spread sheet with all the distances in from the 4 stops. Although we were not working the brakes that hard, i really want to make sure that the abs system works at least as well with these china brakes that it did with the standard ones.
It’ll be interesting to see when ur proper hooning about if these calliper seals last with the amount of heat that you’ll put through them, time will tell, fingers crossed though they stay good, don’t want no ditch diving going on 🙈
can someone please tell me what rims these are? I would like to get some for my 335
666m replicas.
Why is it called n54 brakes? Did they change the brakes on 335's with an n55?
To my knowledge the brakes are the same on the N55 E92 335i's. But this car is a N54.
@@ZeroTo60Tube ahhhhhh I see. It's all in how I read the title. Thanks for clearing that up.
Do a stop from 200 kph...
I would say several, from 200-100 kph at least or else you are just arousing the rotors. Build some proper heat into the rotors to find the limit. I know that Aussies have it a bit more difficult with all the anti-hoon stuff, but for comparing the thermal capacity of rotors of that size, 100kph won't cut it.
I did a similar upgrade on my 330d derv and went from 330mm (EBC USR rotors + EBC yelllow stuff) to a 370mm (F30 Zimmermann rotors + EBC yellow stuff + ss braided lines) with Msport/M2 calipers 370/380 4 pot brembos and the difference on repeated braking is pretty considerable. The tire becomes the issue when the pads get some proper heat.
Anyone find the link to the same package that had the same markings on the rotors? All I found were regular slotted or cross drilled. Maybe he got lucky. Maybe after he installs them and they are okay, he will let someone know which package so we can get “blank” calipers instead of the name brand.
Look up JeKit brakes and I think you’ll find what you’re looking for.
Just curious, can u program e92 abs box?, e46 m3 you can
I’m not sure
What pads were you using on the oem setup?
These are just whatever we’re on the car when I got it. I’ve never had them out of the callipers. I will find out when I install the new ones today.
@@ZeroTo60Tube look forward to it, interested what pads they were. I had hawk hps+ on my e90 328xi (sold off for my x1 35i) they were superb, especially once they heated up.
Brakes goo brrrrr
Link on this brake kit ?
Im never gonna give it up.......... lol Not until i have some faith in them anyway.
I’m going to jump on the bandwagon here are points out that Bmw has been building cars for a while now and have learnt a thing or two about hauling up a sports sedan from 250 on an autobahn. Driving in Germany is a real eye opener and gives you an appreciation for what these cars are capable of. I know a lot of gear comes out of China and can be exceptional quality but how do you know and verify this. They might look cool from the outside but I’m more concerned about what they look like on the inside and whether after 30000km they’re going to work when needed.
That’s it I completely agree. I have data on the stock brakes now. Although this wasn’t even really testing the stock ones that hard. It was more so a test of a real emergency stop while driving on the road. I really want to be sure that the Ali brakes don’t mess with the abs system.
Isn't bmw biased towards the rear brakes? Shouldn't you measure those first?
I am not aware of a BMW that had larger brakes on the rear than the front. The fronts will always heat up first. As weight transfers under braking, the rear tyres wouldn't get traction if the brakes were rear biased.
Hey guys this is a bit off topic but just chasing some advice. I'm running full bolt on's on a 2008 e90 335i and have just flashed with MHD stage 2+. The turbo's in the car are in very good condition with very little waste gate rattle. Should I select the waste gate rattle delete option available in the tune, and if so where best to position the slide bar? It seems to have waste gate worded at the lower scale end and lag at the other end. What do you guys know of this, any info or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
The wastegate rattle fixes are all a case by case thing so it may take some tweaking. My understanding is that the dme will hold the wastegates further open when off boost. The further open they are the less likely they will rattle, however it also means they need to move further to close and create boost. Definitely have a play with the settings and compare response and rattle. I spent ages with my stock turbos and the JB4 version of this setting. Luckily with the JB4 you can adjust while driving. However even tho, the best result i got was manually adjusting the wastegate rod. That might be something to look in to if you can't quieten it down enough with the MHD settings.
Guys, if you put so much money and effort into it, then why go easy on the brakes? Lots of euro cars run 250+ if you let them and the OEM brakes are able to bring them back to zero safely. That's the benchmark you should keep in mind. The chinese brakes need to cope with that kind of heat to be a worthy replacement. Cheers.
Well unfortunately can’t rest that safely yet. I wanted real world emergency stop data on the stock setup first, which we now have. I am concerned that the Ali kit will affect the abs calibration. And to be fair these test in this video is more so a test on the tyres and and abs than the brakes. But that’s what is doing the work during normal road driving.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Okay fair enough. Fingers crossed that everything goes smoothly.
My only concern with these “brembo’s” (ahem! Cough cough...) is that they are Chinese and even IF made well how does one buy replacement rotors?
You could pretty much use any rotor they dont have to come from the same manufacturer
@@bustabong they sell replacement rotors for them separately as well
The brake pads would of gone in the bin! No point risking it
Well at least have the data to compare them to the stock ones now.
Exactly they are the biggest problem on track, even AP racing bbk included pads need to go to the bin if you track it. Pagid or Endless pads is the way to go.
I have stock brakes and they do just fine on track where I'm constantly braking from high speed of rates they do just fine of course with a track brake pad compound . You guys don't need these brakes for drag racing its seriolusly over kill and a waste of money . You will break the tire friction with those brakes and not even using them at their full potential . I have an e90 n54 with stock brakes and track pads I get no fade and they do very well at track and track is way more demanding on the brakes than roll racing or drag racing . You seriously could of spend that money on drag wheels and slicks
Even if they didn't need it, this is an Ebay built car. In the video showcasing the brakes he stated that it was just the better deal to get BBk instead of refreshing what he had.
And above all that this is content that they bring to the channel sooo that's cool.
Also this comparison will show if its worthy or not the upgrade.
Very likely they'll still gonna get better tires and wheels after the brakes = more content = happy viewers
You’re either lying or stupid mate. Stock 335 brakes will start to fade on a track. An M3’s brakes will start to fade when being driven hard enough. These are a massive improvement and with good tires will yield better breaking results.
You must not be using radials if you think they’ll brake tire traction
@@mrpoopybutthole6314 you probably dont even have a bmw and never even had a track day of driving or any autocross. and you just regurgitate what everyone says . 😂 you wish buddy
Rafa Navarro cheers mate for your concern. Happily own an e46 n been racing karts since I was 8 xx
Oh shit not one of the first ten. Lol. Smh 🤦🏽♂️
Cop👮 you boys aren't doing anything illegal 🚫
Andrew_Dave 👦💂 err not today! - do you come here much? 😆 😆
Nothing to see here, just some draggy and G, want some officer?
We get pulled over the one time we are actually doing brake tests..... It really never occurred to us that another type of individual would also want to use an abandoned service road at night time.... haha. Dont blame them for being suspicious. But they really didn't believe out story that we were just doing some driving....