Going to try this method out. I like KISS! 60 year old hardware from a well weathered Sunbeam Tiger front suspension. I used Klean-Strip (phosphoric acid based) to remove the last bits of rust after wire brushing as you showed. Otherwise my setup is now the same as in the video. I'll drop a comment on the results in a day or so.
I'm curious why people want or do zinc plated steel (bars not bolts) when its not for electrical? I've heard a welding channel say there's advantages to it, but it didn't say what those were; it was instead going over why its harder to weld.
For the first step (3:15 mark), what current level was set for the preparing the plating solution? I used a quarter amp just as a starting point, but might that be too low? Thanks!
Is there a limit the the thickness of the plating? If the bolt was left in the solution for an hour would it continue to plate? Thank you for a clear well presented video.
That’s a great question and I really don’t know. I would imagine the answer is yes but I’ve never tried that, for almost everything I plate after 10 minutes max I’ve got a decent, durable plating. Maybe someday I’ll leave something in for a while and see what happens. Thanks for watching.
There should be a point where its diminishing return on the time in the solution plating. But I'm not sure what that time would be. Its also possible that you might try to counter that with a higher zinc % in the solution(?)(but is that safe??)
You would have to have the zinc soft enough to be able to move and then bond to where you want it; that's chemistry. So while bonding yes. (However, I don't know how safe the air around hot zinc would be? Probably it wouldn't be good to be breathing that very long.) Please be careful. You'd basically need to look at the heater, and what its heat is and what the melting point of the zinc was also. In the 3 phases of matter, that you learn in chemistry you learn that there's minute amounts of an element that will be in all 3 phases. So when you heat a metal to get hot enough to work with, that means there's also vapors...that you don't want to breathe.
Thanks for the video! Can you share details on the power supply? Where purchased, cost? Thanks again.
Going to try this method out. I like KISS! 60 year old hardware from a well weathered Sunbeam Tiger front suspension. I used Klean-Strip (phosphoric acid based) to remove the last bits of rust after wire brushing as you showed. Otherwise my setup is now the same as in the video. I'll drop a comment on the results in a day or so.
I'm curious why people want or do zinc plated steel (bars not bolts) when its not for electrical? I've heard a welding channel say there's advantages to it, but it didn't say what those were; it was instead going over why its harder to weld.
For the first step (3:15 mark), what current level was set for the preparing the plating solution? I used a quarter amp just as a starting point, but might that be too low? Thanks!
Is there a limit the the thickness of the plating? If the bolt was left in the solution for an hour would it continue to plate? Thank you for a clear well presented video.
That’s a great question and I really don’t know. I would imagine the answer is yes but I’ve never tried that, for almost everything I plate after 10 minutes max I’ve got a decent, durable plating. Maybe someday I’ll leave something in for a while and see what happens. Thanks for watching.
@@Chris_Does_Everything under load, everything will fall off
There should be a point where its diminishing return on the time in the solution plating. But I'm not sure what that time would be. Its also possible that you might try to counter that with a higher zinc % in the solution(?)(but is that safe??)
you could buy zincsulfate and use it instead of salt than you have your zinc ions without any impuritys
DONT wear gloves when using a wire wheel. Use pliers and keep your hands away from it, if you’re worried about getting scratched.
Do you keep the heater in the zinc
You would have to have the zinc soft enough to be able to move and then bond to where you want it; that's chemistry. So while bonding yes. (However, I don't know how safe the air around hot zinc would be? Probably it wouldn't be good to be breathing that very long.) Please be careful.
You'd basically need to look at the heater, and what its heat is and what the melting point of the zinc was also.
In the 3 phases of matter, that you learn in chemistry you learn that there's minute amounts of an element that will be in all 3 phases. So when you heat a metal to get hot enough to work with, that means there's also vapors...that you don't want to breathe.
it is better to cover it with == copper =
These started off zinc plated so for me zinc is the way to go. Copper might look nice for some applications though. Thanks for watching.