I cannot believe it took me this long to come accross your channel bud. My gosh how much time you could have saved me if i only knew and watched you from the start a few years back
Hi Brad, thanks for the vids... I say vids instead of videos because I simply do not have the time to type the extra I O :).... I am wondering if it's possible to do a batch plating all at once? Grind, sand, polish, etc, to an 8 -10 club batch of irons, then put all of the heads in to the solution you made up in the video? Thank you.
Yes, but here's the catch: your anodes need to be about twice the surface area of the item you're plating, so you'd need a pretty hefty sized nickel anode to keep up with plating onto the club heads. I do more of an assembly line where I have one in the plating tank while I'm polishing the next so there's no time for the club heads to start corroding again.
So glad I found your channel! Thank you for doing everything on the cheap and your explanations are so much fun! I’m looking forward to watching many many many many more of your videos and hopefully trying out your techniques.
Perhaps a hook solution that goes into the hosel in order to not have the exterior of the heads touch the suspension? I was mildly concerned that the touching points might look slightly different from the rest of the head? Or get less build-up of nickel in those spots?
Thanks Brad, your videos are great! I'm learning so much and may incorporate this into my golf club hobby builds. Some of my family and friends have golf clubs they don't want to part with, but are looking quite beat up at this point!! In regards to this video, can you not do more than one at a time or did you only do this one golf iron for the purpose of simplifying how to do this? Thanks.
I do one at a time so I can tackle it in an assembly line way - meaning, I can plate a club while i'm sanding/polishing the next. They start to corrode if the bare steel is left sitting. Also, the size of the anode needs to be about twice the surface area of the item that you're plating. These little anodes aren't big enough to handle more. If you have a bigger setup, you can do multiple. Also, I'm lazy and a mega-procrastinator.
This video is what inspired me to have a go at nickel plating. I’ve literally just built the tank with aeration and a heater..I’m just waiting on my chemicals to have a go at this. Thank you 🙏🏼
@@BradMeehan I’m having next to no success with it all. I’ve converted my white vinegar into nickel acetate, I have heat and circulation and two nickel plates on the positive and the bar across the top on the negative. I’ve set the voltage to 3 volts and tried at 4.5 and still nothing plates...my copper bubbles but just seems to barely get anything on it even after 45 minutes...what’s wrong??
@@BradMeehan I’ve tried with copper pipe and I’ve also tried with a stainless steel club head...I’ve even degreased and acid pickled the items too...I’m so confused
@@brianhull5125 any way to check the voltage across the anode to the bar? Hold positive lead on the anode, negative on the bar and see if you have 4 volts?
Does the piece that's being plated show any blemishes at the points where it rests on the copper hook? Do you move it around periodically? Great video, thanks
It could. I've adapted my tank to be taller so I can hang it from the hosel now. I bought a plastic flour container and it's a good size. Check out some of the newer videos to see what it looks like. The rest is the same setup.
excellent video! If you repeat the process several times, can several layers of plating adhere? At how much voltage did you supply the plating tub? How did you remove the plate from the golf clubs? regards Thank you very much for the video greetings from Monterrey Mexico!!
Check out this link: th-cam.com/video/VRiefpq1iVs/w-d-xo.html This is how I removed the old finish. You can replate it again buy you'll have to reactivate the nickel using a nickel activation solution (also sold by those guys) for it to bond.
I forgot to answer the voltage question: I started with 4.5 volts and 1 amp, but lowered it to 3.5 volts and .5 amp on the second club but let it plate longer.
Do you find that using an airstone with very fine fast moving bubbles work better or does an airstone that produces larger air bubbles work best? Also, do you put the airstone directly on the item you are plating or a distance from it so the solution is just circulating and moving?
Hey , really like the video and I found it very informative. The only thing I can't find out is whether or not nickel plating in this small a size gives off harmful fumes or not. I can't find a straight answer any where on google
When you strip a club head by reversing this method, would you then be able to use the cathode as an anode to put the chrome back on after smoothing out the club head?
Sorry I missed this. I don't think you can re-chrome like that. Caswell sells chrome plating kits, but it's expensive (to me) and there are safety concerns.
if i were to plate a round piece of steel 1.25" diameter and 25" long will this work or do i need more voltage/amps, i want plating to be as thick as i can get it. thanks and very good presentation
Check out my Electroless Nickel video. That may be a better option for this use case. But yes, you'd have to do a bit of math. There's a calculator on the Caswell site to help with power requirements for your parts. It takes into consideration the entire surface area to be plated.
Excellent. I've done some metal cleaning with electricity and accidentally put some copper onto cast iron. So I've plated before, but not properly. I'm also familiar with making power sources. Thanks for the tutorial. Question, is there any limit to how many clubheads we plate at once? Looks like 2 or 3 might hang in your tank, more if bigger. Any drawbacks to that?
The only limit is real estate in the tank and the size of your anodes. The rule of thumb is the anodes have to be twice the size of the surface area of the club. Then, you'll need to adjust your current to accout for the additional draw. I'm still learning too, but this is what I've gathered at this point. Also, I appreciate you taking the time to comment!
I love watching your videos, I'm a actually starting my new job as a club fitter, so exciting!!!. Your videos are actually helping me learn alot about the craft. I have so Mizuno MP14's, I got them cheap in a goodwill, some were not in great condition. I'm missing the 7 and 9 iron but their amazing to hit. The problem is the groves, they seem like they were grinded down with a dremel. Can this be be fixed with copper? Make a video on this, please! Thank you for the videos, keep them coming.
This is awesome. I'm going to follow these steps and see if I can't restore some life into older clubs that I have laying around - specifically some old wedges. I saw a comment response earlier where you said that you stop at Nickel because Chrome plating isn't DIY friendly. What makes that the case? The amount of power required, cost, safety? Thanks!
Ok so my husband has been getting so many golf clubs and it's overwhelming. At 11:17 there is a white rack next to your tv where you store multiple clubs. 🙏Do you mind if I ask where you got it from? It would help solve my problem at home :). Thanks!!!
Hello, this is my wife. She claims that the clubs I own take up a lot of space but in reality it only takes up about 20 square feet. That being said could you please help so I can regain half of my space back. Thanks 🙏👍🏽
Hilarious! It's an addiction, for sure. The rack I use is just a wire drawer organizer like the one in the link below. It was in our storage room so I repurposed it for the clubs. They slipped perfectly into the sqares of the drawer and each row of squares held a full set of clubs. Here's a picture of one. It might not be the same brand, but the idea is the same. You'd just have to look at the size of the squares in the basket to make sure they fit: amzn.to/3EMHHsX
@@BradMeehan Thanks Brad! I appreciate the response! I'll definitely look into getting a rack that is best suits the space I have - again...20 square ft. Thanks again!
i get nervous about the power source. Do you have a video about what is the best one to use? is any of this dangerous? between the electricity and the chemicals... just curious if there is info already out there about those steps and processes.
@@BradMeehan ok so not gonna get electrocuted lol. Also I found your post that showed how to get a power source and you cut the wires but then what? What and how do you connect the alligator clips to the wires. Again sorry for being a moron with electronics
Great video, totally new so forgive me… but is there any fumes that come off of the solution? Just wondering about any precautions to take when setting up to plate a club. Thanks!
Do you need to use the wand and nickel activator before putting the clean clubhead into the bath? I see on here you didnt do that but on that beautiful vokey video you did brush the head woth nickel activator. Thanks brad!
I wonder if this would work with plastic, like for model kits? Trying to find a good chrome that is durable for plastic is really tough ... or very expensive. Great video. Thanks...
Hello Brad can you go thru all the items needed and a more in-depth video on how to make n get the correct supplies to make one to diy my clubs. Thank you. These are awesome dyi videos
Your videos are so addicting!! I stumbled on them this morning working 12 hours. I have watched a few now and they aree interesting!! I think most golfers like good looking clean clubs!! I subbed your channel too!!
I watch your beautiful video more than 5 times, and I enjoyed every time. Great job, really great job from a wonderful man. Thanks bro. I wish you do it with chrome once time on another beautiful chromic thing. I like it. I searched lot and didn't find a Applicable video But It was so simple and so professional also. I've been looking for it a lot. ❤❤❤❤ Thanks man Love u from Iran.
Awesome videos brother. I found it easy to understand & follow your instructions. However, i read your description & you stated you used "nickle strike" before you submerged the part in the Nickle Bright Solution. I don't recall seeing you demonstrate using that procedure. Do you think you could do a quick video on that? Once again, awesome videos & tutorials. Thank you & Go! Pack! Go!
Hey Brad, your videos are awesome!! BTW, what is that yellow device you use to rechrome your golf clubs and where or which number do you set to use this device? Thanks in advance!
How does the plating come out directly where the copper cradle touches the club head? I would think it leaves a bare spot or a small divot or something since the wire is touching it.
Actually the anode is supposed to he twice the size of the item you're plating so on this small tank, I do one at a time. Also let's me do an assembly line where i can polish one while another is plating.
My sweet spot is 3.5 v, .5 amps. I'll caveat that with I'm a DIY'er and always learning and perfecting the steps. There's a formula to follow on some plating forums, but experimentation got me to those values. There are links in the description to buy the anodes from my affiliate store or check out Caswells site. I leave it in for 2 or 3 hours total. Just need to make sure you have plenty of distance between the Anode and club to avoid pitting as it builds up.
What kind of power supply do you need for doing your plating - VDC and Amps? I have a set of Maxfli TM-92 Australian Blades that I have been playing for 20 years and I love them but they have gotten little dings and dents all over them from clanking around in the bag over the years and I would like to restore them to like new again and am doing some research.
Another great video which makes this look simple. Must try it. However, curious about the paint fill; the head seemed to emerge with perfect fill? Do you do the paint fill before dipping on the basis that the nicol won't attach to the paint? Would it not be better to plate the whole head and then paint fill?
Just lazy on my part and wanting to try it out. Acetone would remove the paint fill and would alleviate the risk of contaminating the nickel. Next video will be how to finish the face.
Hi Eduardo. If you are referring to the shafts, I did not nickel plate them. However, if you have longer items, you can do half and half. If you see a line, you can buff it with the white compound and even it out. I've seen videos of people plating half of a part at a time.
Indefinitely if you keep it clean. The nickel anodes continually feed the solution. The nickel that doesn't stick to the club remains in the liquid. That said, you will have to replace the nickel anodes as they are being eaten as you plate. Hope that makes sense.
@@BradMeehan Makes sense yeh. This might sound dumb but essentially, why would you wanna plate the club head ? couldn't you leave it as is after simply polishing ? Thanks a lot for the knowledge
So, I did my first wedge with steps youve put in video. Got all my stuff from caswell. It turned out great. I then prepped and did a 2nd wedge, and it came out with a black/chrome spiral finish...found out that my cable that connected the annodes dropped into the nickel solution during the plating process (im guessing some plastic got melted off). I tested with another club and got some "icky" results. I'm wondering if the solution got contaminated and if there is anything a guy can do to clean the nickel solution or do I need to start fresh with new crystals and nickel brightener? thanks for any help!
Hi Ben. Contamination is a possibility if something falls into the solution because it will also release lositively charged metal looking for a negatively charged part. Some forums say you can filter it through a fish tank carbon filter. Have you tried polishing the swirly one after? Does it shine?
I believe that because I check on it so often that it jostled around on the hook to avoid marks. I may just be getting lucky. If you notice in my newer videos I've been hanging them by the hosel to avoid this. You'll need a deep enough container to do it this way. Works great and avoids potential marks.
Too long could result in pitting. I leave mine in for around 2 hours, but some say 30 minutes is enough. the longer its in the solution, the thicker the plating, but you're also risking imperfections.
@kevanpillay9701 it's limited by the size of the nickel anode. It must be 2x the surface area of the club. You're better doing an assembly line and polishing one while the other is plating
This is great, extremely helpful. I have a set of mp 32's that I'm working with as well. Can you do multiple heads at the same time with this process or does it have to be 1 at a time?
You can, but you'd need larger anodes and a bigger tank. It plates better when the distance to your part isn't too close to the anode, so real estate in the tank is prime. This DIY stuff is st most going to handle two at a time.
Any steel forged iron would work. You'd have to look up your club's type of metal to see if nickel can be electroplated. Most can without additional prep.
Hi Brad, hope you are well? Thanks for all the nice videos and information. I am in South Africa and running in some problems because of our products that differ a little. Is there any way to get into contact with you, need some help? Regards Willie
3 to 5 volts seems to be best in this small tank. I'm still learning, but that's been the nest result. The good news is, you can polish it and redo it easily if you're not satisfied.
@@brfam1977 She does! I usually show her in person the progress I'm making but she still likes to watch the final video. She says they're really satisfying to watch - especially on the full restoration videos where i don't talk. Haha.
Can you talk a bit about the durability of nickel vs chrome plating? Will nickel plating hold up to the extended rigors a golf club goes through, or is replacing necessary after a while? When should you use chrome and when nickel? Thanks.!!
Just finished my first plating: a Ben Hogan Special 56 that was in tough shape when I acquired it. I took out the nicks, dechromed, cleaned, prepped and plated, like I learned from you. It's not perfect, there are a few spots and less lustrous places, but overall it's a winner. Sandblasting the face is next then I'm gonna shaft it, grip it and play it. Thanks, man!
Oops, spoke too soon. The sandblasting didn't go well. Didn't mask it enough. Nickel is flaking off hosel now. Starting over. What causes spots, like water spots on a window?
I got the nike slingshot, I just don't know about taking the clup head off and being able to put it !ack on. Its on the steal shaft. For now I want to polish it first. And see how it turns out. Also should I give it texture with the sand blower? I really enjoy your channel! Thanks again!
Word. Just put masking tape on the plastic ferrule on the shaft so you don't mess with it and you should be ok. That's the only thing you could damage. Sand with paper, then buff it you have a buffer (or make one like my tutorial). That should get you started and comfortable.
Thank you. There's a link in the description to power supplies on Amazon of you can access it. I bought an inexpensive one that was maybe 50 dollars. It's a brand called TackLife, but the brand won't matter. I only chose it because of the price and had decent reviews, so you can pick any. You can also make your own with an old charger (if you're super cheap like me). I have a video on my channel on how to make one. But you'd be better off buying one.
I’m currently looking at getting some stuff to start trying nickel plating. I’m curious how many clubs you can get out of the 1.5/1.6 gallon nickel/brightener from Caswell. Obviously it depends on the overall thickness, but do you think that would be enough for 9 clubs plus a few cheap thrift store clubs for practicing on? Or should I plan on needing more?
@@Praxtra_ with electroplating, the nickel anode feeds the solution. I haven't changed my solution since i made this video, but I have replaced my nickel anode after about a year.
@@BradMeehan oh? I would have thought that the nickel is also taken from the nickel solution, thus spending the solution. I guess that’s moreso an issue with the electroless plating.
I also was going to ask, I saw your electroless nickel video. Any idea how long the electroless would last, as I know that solution gets “spent” after a certain amount of plating time.
@Praxtra_ On the electroplating, the anodes feed the solution. So, you're correct in the way that the nickel comes from the solution itself. It just gets replenish from the anodes. With electroless, it's much more beginner friendly but you have to add replenisher (more solution) because there is no anode. You can probably do a full set, but I add a few oz as I plate to ensure I don't crash the solution.
@@BradMeehan appreciate the insight! Any idea if there’s a difference in strength between electroless and electroplated? I may repolish and chrome them in the future, but for now I just want something that’ll hold up for a year or two
I've evolved the process to hang it upside down by the hosel. Check out some of the newer videos to see how that looks. I never noticed it in the finished plating but it's definitely a potential. It was more noticeable when I do the copper. The upside-down approach is best
Brad, as usual, id like to thank you for showing the rest of us how to do this. The positively charged metal that you're using... What are they called so i can get them from Home Depot? Right now Ii don't know what they're called or what they are for that matter. I'm assuming that they're nickel plated metal in order to get the nickel to adhere to the negatively charged golf iron. I live in Canada, so to be on the safe side as far as sourcing some of this stuff, what should i ask for or look for to get those metal plates? If you don't get them from Home Depot, let me know so hopefully we have the same chain of stores here in Canada as well. Thanks in advance for your help and guidance. You're such a great guy doung all these videos for us laymen! I was wondering why you only do one at a time, but then I read a reply to one of my own comments and you explained why you only do one at a time. Once removed from the suspension, the metal starts to corrode quickly if left sitting for some time. That makes a lot of sense to do one at a time. Thanks man, you're awesome!!
brother this is fuc@&n awesome!!!! i just learn how to change my own grips, ow i want to learn all this!!! how do you properly dispose of the liquids after you don’t need them?
Total, I'd say a 2 hours but I kept jacking with the voltages. The longer you leave it, the brighter and thicker it gets. I left the wedge in there for 4 hours on a lower voltage. "Slow and low" is the recommendation.
Me confused. In another video you used an electro cleaner and a surface activator solution prior to the nickel bath. Are those essential steps? When are they needed and when not?
hi, Craig. The electrocleaner is always done. I may have just skipped it in other videos, but I did it. there's just no other way to get it THAT clean to ensure the nickel bonds. Dirty club = no worky. The nickel activator is to allow the existing nickel to let more nickel bond to it. I don't know if it's really necessary, because Ive had success without it, but re-work sucks and I do it to avoid having to do ALL the steps over if it doesn't bond.
Can you describe your process before playing? Do you degrease then prep with a muriatic acid mix? And if I scuff the surface before with a scotch brite pad will this plating still give it a uniformly smooth look? Thanks for your content man!!
How far before plating? After it's been polished? I use the acid for rust and some chrome removal before polishing. Once it's polished, I use the electrocleaner to really get the piece clean from any oils from the polishing compound, I active any remaining nickel that may be on the club so it can accept new nickel, then into the tank for a few hours. The club will take on the condition of the underlying metal, so if you see brush marks from the Scotch-Brite, you will see it in the plating. A heavy layer of copper first will help fill in the scuffs, but it's just easier to polish than go to that extra step. Polishing takes no effort. You're just standing there and letting the wheel do the work. Keep the questions coming so I know you are successful at this. Also, practice on a junk club.
I have a video showing how to use old phone chargers for this if you're interested in checkimg that out. But I now own a DC power supply I got from Amazon since I can have more control. It was $59 for the power supply. I can do a more in depth video. This was supposed to be just me making a tank but I got carried away and wanted to try it.
Is this how companies that refurbish clubs do it? How does this hold up over time afterwards? Let’s say 1 golf season? And if it’s not going to hold well then is there anything you can do to make it more durable?
First try today, but it didn't go very well. My bubbler was creating a large amount of foam in the tank. Any ideas what may be causing this? Could it be containmination of some sort?
It's just a large piece of nickel sold in sheets or strips. You can buy them in Amazon , eBay, or Caswell plating supplies online. The bigger the better.
Nickel isn't too difficult and it can come out very pretty and good protection too. It's not chrome, but also... the advantage is that it's not chrome. Rumour has it you can also add a layer of rhodium plating on top as another home option, but i haven't tried.
Greetings Brad, love your channel and thanks for making the video. What material did you use for the positive electrodes? I am thinking about doing this to my Ping cat eye set which is just plane dull stainless. What type of pre treatment would they need? Just an acid dip before plating to remove oxidation? Also need to remove any paint. Thanks again
For stainless, you won't have to do any of these steps. You can just sand and polish them as-is. If you want to make them matte like their original finish, you can spray it with your sand blaster to dull it down after polishing (unless you want it shiny)
They're different metals but the process is the same. Chrome plating is more expensive and has safety concerns for me. Caswell sells the chrome plating kits it you want to try it. It's DC. and I use 3.5 volts and .5 amps for about 2 hours.
Anywhere from 30 minutes to ~2 hours. The longer it goes, the thicker the plating, but you risk flaws the longer it goes. They can all be buffed at the end, so even if you see darkening, etc. you can polish it.
Exciting videos! I have a set of old titleist tour model from 81, they are fully playable as they are… But it would be really cool to have them in a mint condition. Chroming seems as a no go as a DIY process! How does the Nickel plating hold up for wear & tear? Other then that I guess it is just to follow your videos with the mizuno clubs? Great videos!!
Was drinking coffee when you said “for my homies” and I spat it out all over my couch in laughter, I will be sending you the dry cleaning bill !!, but thanks for the info! Save me money and gives me confidence to DIY this!
Ya thats probably the best set up i have seen yet cheers bro for posting i couldnt get nickel in large enough size guitar strings are nickel wound but went with nickel welding rods think they are 50% nickel so not as shiny but did the job and not rusting...
Great video. How far will one mix go.? Like can you do several clubs in that one mix? How would you gauge when it's ready for replacement solution? Cheers!
It will last indefinitely of you keep it clean. You can add more distilled water to raise the level if it gets low. The inky thing you'll have to replace is the nickel anode because it gets eaten away as it sacrifices metal into the solution. I'll make a video about Tank Maintenance for you.
I cannot believe it took me this long to come accross your channel bud. My gosh how much time you could have saved me if i only knew and watched you from the start a few years back
Thank you!
What are you using for a power supply? Or did I miss something?
Best plating DIY video! Loved how you kept it simple, but highly informative. Keep up the great videos.
Thank you for watching
Hi Brad, thanks for the vids... I say vids instead of videos because I simply do not have the time to type the extra I O :).... I am wondering if it's possible to do a batch plating all at once? Grind, sand, polish, etc, to an 8 -10 club batch of irons, then put all of the heads in to the solution you made up in the video? Thank you.
Yes, but here's the catch: your anodes need to be about twice the surface area of the item you're plating, so you'd need a pretty hefty sized nickel anode to keep up with plating onto the club heads. I do more of an assembly line where I have one in the plating tank while I'm polishing the next so there's no time for the club heads to start corroding again.
This is the channel I’ve been looking for.
Awesome. Thank you.
Same!!
Ditto and bravo!
Btw, hope things are going ok with your Mom.
Yessir
Agreed
So glad I found your channel! Thank you for doing everything on the cheap and your explanations are so much fun! I’m looking forward to watching many many many many more of your videos and hopefully trying out your techniques.
This really is a game changer. I haven't looked yet but I hope you put the clubs back together so we can see a finished product.
Perhaps a hook solution that goes into the hosel in order to not have the exterior of the heads touch the suspension? I was mildly concerned that the touching points might look slightly different from the rest of the head? Or get less build-up of nickel in those spots?
I completely agree. In hindsight, I would have made my tank a bit deeper so I could hang them from the hosel.
Thanks Brad, your videos are great! I'm learning so much and may incorporate this into my golf club hobby builds. Some of my family and friends have golf clubs they don't want to part with, but are looking quite beat up at this point!!
In regards to this video, can you not do more than one at a time or did you only do this one golf iron for the purpose of simplifying how to do this? Thanks.
I do one at a time so I can tackle it in an assembly line way - meaning, I can plate a club while i'm sanding/polishing the next. They start to corrode if the bare steel is left sitting. Also, the size of the anode needs to be about twice the surface area of the item that you're plating. These little anodes aren't big enough to handle more. If you have a bigger setup, you can do multiple. Also, I'm lazy and a mega-procrastinator.
"for my homies" LMAO! between that and your framed photo of Eric Estrada on the mini fridge, I like your sense of humor
Framed and SIGNED photo of Eric Estrada! Thank you!
The coolest people in the comments
This video is what inspired me to have a go at nickel plating. I’ve literally just built the tank with aeration and a heater..I’m just waiting on my chemicals to have a go at this. Thank you 🙏🏼
Very cool. Hit me up with questions. I learned it all from TH-cam videos and reading forums.
@@BradMeehan I’m having next to no success with it all. I’ve converted my white vinegar into nickel acetate, I have heat and circulation and two nickel plates on the positive and the bar across the top on the negative. I’ve set the voltage to 3 volts and tried at 4.5 and still nothing plates...my copper bubbles but just seems to barely get anything on it even after 45 minutes...what’s wrong??
@@brianhull5125 Is there chrome on the iron? Or you're still testing on a piece of copper?
@@BradMeehan I’ve tried with copper pipe and I’ve also tried with a stainless steel club head...I’ve even degreased and acid pickled the items too...I’m so confused
@@brianhull5125 any way to check the voltage across the anode to the bar? Hold positive lead on the anode, negative on the bar and see if you have 4 volts?
Love this video! Maybe I missed it, but what's the voltage of your power supply?
3.5 volts, 1 - 1.5 amps is what I do in my little tank
Does the piece that's being plated show any blemishes at the points where it rests on the copper hook? Do you move it around periodically? Great video, thanks
It could. I've adapted my tank to be taller so I can hang it from the hosel now. I bought a plastic flour container and it's a good size. Check out some of the newer videos to see what it looks like. The rest is the same setup.
The contact point will have a thinner layer so move it around
excellent video! If you repeat the process several times, can several layers of plating adhere? At how much voltage did you supply the plating tub? How did you remove the plate from the golf clubs? regards Thank you very much for the video greetings from Monterrey Mexico!!
Check out this link:
th-cam.com/video/VRiefpq1iVs/w-d-xo.html
This is how I removed the old finish. You can replate it again buy you'll have to reactivate the nickel using a nickel activation solution (also sold by those guys) for it to bond.
I forgot to answer the voltage question: I started with 4.5 volts and 1 amp, but lowered it to 3.5 volts and .5 amp on the second club but let it plate longer.
Do you find that using an airstone with very fine fast moving bubbles work better or does an airstone that produces larger air bubbles work best? Also, do you put the airstone directly on the item you are plating or a distance from it so the solution is just circulating and moving?
I put it directly under it. I've only owned this one air stone, so I can't compare to something with larger bubbles.
hello! a consultation... the sandblasting is done before or after the electroplating processes
I now do it before to avoid damaging the plating.
When plating nickel, the copper wire was not plated, was it okay?
You should see nickel on the copper of it's clean and connected correctly (and it's actually copper)
Hey , really like the video and I found it very informative. The only thing I can't find out is whether or not nickel plating in this small a size gives off harmful fumes or not. I can't find a straight answer any where on google
When you strip a club head by reversing this method, would you then be able to use the cathode as an anode to put the chrome back on after smoothing out the club head?
Sorry I missed this. I don't think you can re-chrome like that. Caswell sells chrome plating kits, but it's expensive (to me) and there are safety concerns.
if i were to plate a round piece of steel 1.25" diameter and 25" long will this work or do i need more voltage/amps, i want plating to be as thick as i can get it. thanks and very good presentation
Check out my Electroless Nickel video. That may be a better option for this use case. But yes, you'd have to do a bit of math. There's a calculator on the Caswell site to help with power requirements for your parts. It takes into consideration the entire surface area to be plated.
@@BradMeehan thank you much
Excellent. I've done some metal cleaning with electricity and accidentally put some copper onto cast iron. So I've plated before, but not properly. I'm also familiar with making power sources. Thanks for the tutorial. Question, is there any limit to how many clubheads we plate at once? Looks like 2 or 3 might hang in your tank, more if bigger. Any drawbacks to that?
The only limit is real estate in the tank and the size of your anodes. The rule of thumb is the anodes have to be twice the size of the surface area of the club. Then, you'll need to adjust your current to accout for the additional draw.
I'm still learning too, but this is what I've gathered at this point.
Also, I appreciate you taking the time to comment!
I love watching your videos, I'm a actually starting my new job as a club fitter, so exciting!!!. Your videos are actually helping me learn alot about the craft.
I have so Mizuno MP14's, I got them cheap in a goodwill, some were not in great condition. I'm missing the 7 and 9 iron but their amazing to hit. The problem is the groves, they seem like they were grinded down with a dremel. Can this be be fixed with copper? Make a video on this, please! Thank you for the videos, keep them coming.
This is awesome. I'm going to follow these steps and see if I can't restore some life into older clubs that I have laying around - specifically some old wedges. I saw a comment response earlier where you said that you stop at Nickel because Chrome plating isn't DIY friendly. What makes that the case? The amount of power required, cost, safety? Thanks!
Also, what do you do with your waste?
Ok so my husband has been getting so many golf clubs and it's overwhelming. At 11:17 there is a white rack next to your tv where you store multiple clubs. 🙏Do you mind if I ask where you got it from? It would help solve my problem at home :). Thanks!!!
Hello, this is my wife. She claims that the clubs I own take up a lot of space but in reality it only takes up about 20 square feet. That being said could you please help so I can regain half of my space back. Thanks 🙏👍🏽
Hilarious! It's an addiction, for sure.
The rack I use is just a wire drawer organizer like the one in the link below. It was in our storage room so I repurposed it for the clubs. They slipped perfectly into the sqares of the drawer and each row of squares held a full set of clubs. Here's a picture of one. It might not be the same brand, but the idea is the same. You'd just have to look at the size of the squares in the basket to make sure they fit: amzn.to/3EMHHsX
@@jonrilla3 At least you don't hide them from her. That's your best argument here. "If you can hide clubs, you can hide a body."
@@BradMeehan thank you so much for your fast response. I appreciate it!
@@BradMeehan Thanks Brad! I appreciate the response! I'll definitely look into getting a rack that is best suits the space I have - again...20 square ft. Thanks again!
i get nervous about the power source. Do you have a video about what is the best one to use? is any of this dangerous? between the electricity and the chemicals... just curious if there is info already out there about those steps and processes.
@mcburdiegolf I can do a more detailed explanation. But, for reference, it's about the same voltage as two AA batteries.
@@BradMeehan ok so not gonna get electrocuted lol. Also I found your post that showed how to get a power source and you cut the wires but then what? What and how do you connect the alligator clips to the wires. Again sorry for being a moron with electronics
Great video, totally new so forgive me… but is there any fumes that come off of the solution? Just wondering about any precautions to take when setting up to plate a club. Thanks!
No fumes. No smell at all, really. But ventilation is recommended. Also, use rubber gloves.
@@BradMeehan Thank you! Speedy reply… much appreciated!
Do you need to use the wand and nickel activator before putting the clean clubhead into the bath? I see on here you didnt do that but on that beautiful vokey video you did brush the head woth nickel activator. Thanks brad!
Well... I have to try this now.. i have these clubs. Im not s handy person at all but youve inspired me... Thank you. Your channel is brilliant
Great video. Could something similar be done to my Ping ISI nickel irons?
I don't think you'd have to plate them. You could likely get away with just the polishing steps.
I wonder if this would work with plastic, like for model kits? Trying to find a good chrome that is durable for plastic is really tough ... or very expensive. Great video. Thanks...
Hello Brad can you go thru all the items needed and a more in-depth video on how to make n get the correct supplies to make one to diy my clubs. Thank you. These are awesome dyi videos
For sure. This is on my list. In the mean time, there is a link in the description to all of the equipment i use in the videos.
Your videos are so addicting!! I stumbled on them this morning working 12 hours. I have watched a few now and they aree interesting!! I think most golfers like good looking clean clubs!! I subbed your channel too!!
Thanks! I'm glad you found the channel. Happy to help and you work through your projects.
Have you ever tried to plate anything thats subjected to heat? I'd like to know if it would hold up on something like a motorcycle part
This will work for motorcycle parts. All chrome parts have nickel underneath.
I watch your beautiful video more than 5 times, and I enjoyed every time.
Great job, really great job from a wonderful man.
Thanks bro.
I wish you do it with chrome once time on another beautiful chromic thing.
I like it.
I searched lot and didn't find a Applicable video
But It was so simple and so professional also.
I've been looking for it a lot.
❤❤❤❤ Thanks man
Love u from Iran.
So after you Nickel Plate them you can sandblast the face paint fill them and game them or do you have to put any kind of a coating afterwards
Absolutely. You could spray them with a bit of clear coat to extend the life, but it will scratch off eventually.
That is a great job.How long will the little pump last.
Awesome videos brother. I found it easy to understand & follow your instructions. However, i read your description & you stated you used "nickle strike" before you submerged the part in the Nickle Bright Solution. I don't recall seeing you demonstrate using that procedure. Do you think you could do a quick video on that? Once again, awesome videos & tutorials. Thank you & Go! Pack! Go!
Hey Brad, your videos are awesome!! BTW, what is that yellow device you use to rechrome your golf clubs and where or which number do you set to use this device? Thanks in advance!
This is great! Been wanting to try this out for a while
How does the plating come out directly where the copper cradle touches the club head? I would think it leaves a bare spot or a small divot or something since the wire is touching it.
Check out the latest videos. I've been hanging the clubs upside down by the hosel to avoid it.
Is there a reason you only did one head at a time or could you hang a few at the same time as long as they don't touch each other in the tank?
Actually the anode is supposed to he twice the size of the item you're plating so on this small tank, I do one at a time. Also let's me do an assembly line where i can polish one while another is plating.
It turned incredable, thanks for sharing it!
Thanks so much for the video. so, i want to order the same kit as you got. please, tell me what to order. Juan
What is the power supply voltage?
Where did you get the sacrifical anodes?
How long was the club head in the solution for a decent plate?
My sweet spot is 3.5 v, .5 amps. I'll caveat that with I'm a DIY'er and always learning and perfecting the steps. There's a formula to follow on some plating forums, but experimentation got me to those values.
There are links in the description to buy the anodes from my affiliate store or check out Caswells site.
I leave it in for 2 or 3 hours total. Just need to make sure you have plenty of distance between the Anode and club to avoid pitting as it builds up.
Can you use Nichrome to electroplate?
Is that the same as the Copy Chrome?
What kind of power supply do you need for doing your plating - VDC and Amps? I have a set of Maxfli TM-92 Australian Blades that I have been playing for 20 years and I love them but they have gotten little dings and dents all over them from clanking around in the bag over the years and I would like to restore them to like new again and am doing some research.
Good video sir thank you, how to electroplate nikle and copper coating on aluminium.
I haven't done it buy here is a link to more information
www.finishing.com/80/41.shtml
Why didn’t you insert copper wire into the shaft hole to hang it? Doesn’t that give a better overall finish? Great work btw!
My tank is too shallow to point the clubhead toe-down. It bottoms out and wouldn't plate the toe. Design flaw of my 1.0 version.
Another great video which makes this look simple. Must try it. However, curious about the paint fill; the head seemed to emerge with perfect fill? Do you do the paint fill before dipping on the basis that the nicol won't attach to the paint? Would it not be better to plate the whole head and then paint fill?
You should clean it out but it won't bond to paint, chrome, or anything dirty.
Just lazy on my part and wanting to try it out. Acetone would remove the paint fill and would alleviate the risk of contaminating the nickel. Next video will be how to finish the face.
On the poles did you do half and half? And did it leave a line or did u use a longer container for the longer items? Thanks
Hi Eduardo. If you are referring to the shafts, I did not nickel plate them. However, if you have longer items, you can do half and half. If you see a line, you can buff it with the white compound and even it out. I've seen videos of people plating half of a part at a time.
Thanks I’ll look in to that.
@@eduardoperez7797 You could also try the brush plating method, but it will take longer.
@@BradMeehan its for an old rifle i want to do a nice job I don’t think brushing will look nice
Hi Brad ! Great videos man, Love all of em. Was wondering how many times you could use the nickel plating solution before have to replace it ?
Indefinitely if you keep it clean. The nickel anodes continually feed the solution. The nickel that doesn't stick to the club remains in the liquid. That said, you will have to replace the nickel anodes as they are being eaten as you plate. Hope that makes sense.
@@BradMeehan Makes sense yeh. This might sound dumb but essentially, why would you wanna plate the club head ? couldn't you leave it as is after simply polishing ? Thanks a lot for the knowledge
What power sourse are you using ? a battery charger or what ?
It's a DC power supply. Check out the link in the description to my equipment page and click "electroplating" to see it.
So, I did my first wedge with steps youve put in video. Got all my stuff from caswell. It turned out great. I then prepped and did a 2nd wedge, and it came out with a black/chrome spiral finish...found out that my cable that connected the annodes dropped into the nickel solution during the plating process (im guessing some plastic got melted off). I tested with another club and got some "icky" results. I'm wondering if the solution got contaminated and if there is anything a guy can do to clean the nickel solution or do I need to start fresh with new crystals and nickel brightener?
thanks for any help!
Hi Ben. Contamination is a possibility if something falls into the solution because it will also release lositively charged metal looking for a negatively charged part. Some forums say you can filter it through a fish tank carbon filter.
Have you tried polishing the swirly one after? Does it shine?
The hook doesn’t leave a mark where it touches during the nickel or brass plating process? Thanks
I believe that because I check on it so often that it jostled around on the hook to avoid marks. I may just be getting lucky.
If you notice in my newer videos I've been hanging them by the hosel to avoid this. You'll need a deep enough container to do it this way. Works great and avoids potential marks.
Best Nickel Plating. What is the Votage & current ? Thanks
I used 3.5 volts, .5 amps.
How long do you leave the club in the plating solution? Are there any problems if you leave it in too long.
Too long could result in pitting. I leave mine in for around 2 hours, but some say 30 minutes is enough. the longer its in the solution, the thicker the plating, but you're also risking imperfections.
@@BradMeehan Thank you!
Hi Brad. Can you put more than one club for nickel plating or must you do it one at a time?
@kevanpillay9701 it's limited by the size of the nickel anode. It must be 2x the surface area of the club. You're better doing an assembly line and polishing one while the other is plating
Awesome Video, I've been wanting to chrome plate some 1/64th scale die cast cars........can you please tell me what kind of power supply your using?
He has a link in the description. Looks like he was using a switching variable benchtop power supply.
This is great, extremely helpful. I have a set of mp 32's that I'm working with as well. Can you do multiple heads at the same time with this process or does it have to be 1 at a time?
You can, but you'd need larger anodes and a bigger tank. It plates better when the distance to your part isn't too close to the anode, so real estate in the tank is prime. This DIY stuff is st most going to handle two at a time.
id love to do this to clubs. What is the specific metal this is best used for?
Any steel forged iron would work. You'd have to look up your club's type of metal to see if nickel can be electroplated. Most can without additional prep.
Hi Brad, hope you are well? Thanks for all the nice videos and information. I am in South Africa and running in some problems because of our products that differ a little. Is there any way to get into contact with you, need some help? Regards Willie
Hi Willie. Check out my DIY Golf Club Restoration Facebook group. I made it to support the channel and we have almost 1700 people in the group!
You did not mention about power supply needed. What is the voltage applied and current setting.
3 to 5 volts seems to be best in this small tank. I'm still learning, but that's been the nest result. The good news is, you can polish it and redo it easily if you're not satisfied.
Gonna start doing this! I constantly bring home various clubs from garage sales and thrift stores.
Me too. It's a problem.
I added an equipment list to the description
@@BradMeehan you da man!
@@BradMeehan I bet your wife or significant other loves it as much as mine…
@@brfam1977 She does! I usually show her in person the progress I'm making but she still likes to watch the final video. She says they're really satisfying to watch - especially on the full restoration videos where i don't talk. Haha.
Is this brite nickel or the nickel cobalt plate aka Copy Krome
It's the bright nickel. I will invest in copy chrome next.
Can you talk a bit about the durability of nickel vs chrome plating? Will nickel plating hold up to the extended rigors a golf club goes through, or is replacing necessary after a while? When should you use chrome and when nickel? Thanks.!!
Just finished my first plating: a Ben Hogan Special 56 that was in tough shape when I acquired it. I took out the nicks, dechromed, cleaned, prepped and plated, like I learned from you. It's not perfect, there are a few spots and less lustrous places, but overall it's a winner. Sandblasting the face is next then I'm gonna shaft it, grip it and play it. Thanks, man!
Oops, spoke too soon. The sandblasting didn't go well. Didn't mask it enough. Nickel is flaking off hosel now. Starting over. What causes spots, like water spots on a window?
I got the nike slingshot, I just don't know about taking the clup head off and being able to put it !ack on. Its on the steal shaft. For now I want to polish it first. And see how it turns out. Also should I give it texture with the sand blower? I really enjoy your channel! Thanks again!
I have a Nike Slingshot video. You won't have to do any of these steps beside polish it. Check it out : th-cam.com/video/6OeENu71SFk/w-d-xo.html
Word. Just put masking tape on the plastic ferrule on the shaft so you don't mess with it and you should be ok. That's the only thing you could damage. Sand with paper, then buff it you have a buffer (or make one like my tutorial). That should get you started and comfortable.
Question(s)
No marks left from the hanger wire touching the metal ?
Would it be better to suspend by the shaft pocket ?
You'll see in my newer videos I hang it upside down by the hosel to avoid that. It works much better.
@@BradMeehan Thank you !!! Great job on the Channel !!!
GREAT VIDEOS. Question. What is the power supply you are using in this video? Sorry if this has been asked before but I didnt see it .
Thank you. There's a link in the description to power supplies on Amazon of you can access it. I bought an inexpensive one that was maybe 50 dollars. It's a brand called TackLife, but the brand won't matter. I only chose it because of the price and had decent reviews, so you can pick any. You can also make your own with an old charger (if you're super cheap like me). I have a video on my channel on how to make one. But you'd be better off buying one.
can't beat that with a stick.... good job..
Thank you
I’m currently looking at getting some stuff to start trying nickel plating. I’m curious how many clubs you can get out of the 1.5/1.6 gallon nickel/brightener from Caswell. Obviously it depends on the overall thickness, but do you think that would be enough for 9 clubs plus a few cheap thrift store clubs for practicing on? Or should I plan on needing more?
@@Praxtra_ with electroplating, the nickel anode feeds the solution. I haven't changed my solution since i made this video, but I have replaced my nickel anode after about a year.
@@BradMeehan oh? I would have thought that the nickel is also taken from the nickel solution, thus spending the solution.
I guess that’s moreso an issue with the electroless plating.
I also was going to ask, I saw your electroless nickel video. Any idea how long the electroless would last, as I know that solution gets “spent” after a certain amount of plating time.
@Praxtra_ On the electroplating, the anodes feed the solution. So, you're correct in the way that the nickel comes from the solution itself. It just gets replenish from the anodes.
With electroless, it's much more beginner friendly but you have to add replenisher (more solution) because there is no anode. You can probably do a full set, but I add a few oz as I plate to ensure I don't crash the solution.
@@BradMeehan appreciate the insight!
Any idea if there’s a difference in strength between electroless and electroplated? I may repolish and chrome them in the future, but for now I just want something that’ll hold up for a year or two
what about the part touching the hanger? does it electroplate the part in contact with the hanger or do you have to move where it's hanging?
I've evolved the process to hang it upside down by the hosel. Check out some of the newer videos to see how that looks. I never noticed it in the finished plating but it's definitely a potential. It was more noticeable when I do the copper. The upside-down approach is best
where did you buy the chrome plating kit from? Everything from Caswell?
So this is the same method for applying hard chrome electroplating?
Yes. Same, just need chrome solution and anode. Look up "reprochrome" for a safe version of it
This is really cool! I would love'd to try it for my drums hardware and lugs 🔥🔥🔥 thanks so much forthis awesome video tutorial!!!
@@ninsdenso2809 you're welcome. Check out my video in electroless plating. It's even easier.
th-cam.com/video/f487RuyG1AY/w-d-xo.html
Brad, as usual, id like to thank you for showing the rest of us how to do this.
The positively charged metal that you're using... What are they called so i can get them from Home Depot? Right now Ii don't know what they're called or what they are for that matter. I'm assuming that they're nickel plated metal in order to get the nickel to adhere to the negatively charged golf iron.
I live in Canada, so to be on the safe side as far as sourcing some of this stuff, what should i ask for or look for to get those metal plates? If you don't get them from Home Depot, let me know so hopefully we have the same chain of stores here in Canada as well. Thanks in advance for your help and guidance. You're such a great guy doung all these videos for us laymen!
I was wondering why you only do one at a time, but then I read a reply to one of my own comments and you explained why you only do one at a time. Once removed from the suspension, the metal starts to corrode quickly if left sitting for some time. That makes a lot of sense to do one at a time.
Thanks man, you're awesome!!
brother this is fuc@&n awesome!!!! i just learn how to change my own grips, ow i want to learn all this!!! how do you properly dispose of the liquids after you don’t need them?
You keep them. The nickel solution will last indefinitely. If the water in the solution evaporates, you're left with the crystals you started with.
So awesome!! Roughly, how long did you leave the iron heads in the solution?
Total, I'd say a 2 hours but I kept jacking with the voltages. The longer you leave it, the brighter and thicker it gets. I left the wedge in there for 4 hours on a lower voltage. "Slow and low" is the recommendation.
Pre-plating A golf club head. Best process to remove any old plating? Or is that even necessary?
혹시 남은 용액을 패수할때 환경 오염에 영향은 없는지요 수질 오염이 걱정이되는데 오수 페기 가능한지요
한국어에서 영어로 번역:
예. 급수로 배수하지 마십시오.
또한 용액이 깨끗하면 여러 번 사용할 수 있습니다. 나는 내 것을 처분하지 않았습니다.
Me confused. In another video you used an electro cleaner and a surface activator solution prior to the nickel bath. Are those essential steps? When are they needed and when not?
hi, Craig. The electrocleaner is always done. I may have just skipped it in other videos, but I did it. there's just no other way to get it THAT clean to ensure the nickel bonds. Dirty club = no worky. The nickel activator is to allow the existing nickel to let more nickel bond to it. I don't know if it's really necessary, because Ive had success without it, but re-work sucks and I do it to avoid having to do ALL the steps over if it doesn't bond.
Fantastic,I have some old Ping Zings. I’ll give it a shot,lol
You may not have to plate those. You can probably just polish them to like-new condition
@@BradMeehan ok. I’m going to by a grinding wheel… I’ll polish first. I do want to try some plating though. You do beautiful work. Thanks Brad.
Can you describe your process before playing? Do you degrease then prep with a muriatic acid mix? And if I scuff the surface before with a scotch brite pad will this plating still give it a uniformly smooth look? Thanks for your content man!!
How far before plating? After it's been polished?
I use the acid for rust and some chrome removal before polishing.
Once it's polished, I use the electrocleaner to really get the piece clean from any oils from the polishing compound, I active any remaining nickel that may be on the club so it can accept new nickel, then into the tank for a few hours.
The club will take on the condition of the underlying metal, so if you see brush marks from the Scotch-Brite, you will see it in the plating. A heavy layer of copper first will help fill in the scuffs, but it's just easier to polish than go to that extra step. Polishing takes no effort. You're just standing there and letting the wheel do the work.
Keep the questions coming so I know you are successful at this.
Also, practice on a junk club.
Great video. Well explained but you did not specify the type and power to feed the solution. I would like to try this process too. Thanks.
The details are in the description. Thanks for watching!
Maybe I missed it in the video but what was your power source?
I have a video showing how to use old phone chargers for this if you're interested in checkimg that out. But I now own a DC power supply I got from Amazon since I can have more control. It was $59 for the power supply. I can do a more in depth video. This was supposed to be just me making a tank but I got carried away and wanted to try it.
Link for others interested: amzn.to/2VxFgq1
Is this how companies that refurbish clubs do it?
How does this hold up over time afterwards? Let’s say 1 golf season?
And if it’s not going to hold well then is there anything you can do to make it more durable?
First try today, but it didn't go very well. My bubbler was creating a large amount of foam in the tank. Any ideas what may be causing this? Could it be containmination of some sort?
Someone on my Facebook group reported the same thing. was it the Krohns solution or the Caswell?
@@BradMeehan Krohns bright nickel electroplate solution
@keithlapinski1594 would you mind posting a pic on the Facebook group and I'll reach out to Krohns to report it.
@BradMeehan sure, I can tomorrow. It really made quite a mess to deal with.
I requested to join your Facebook group
Hi thanks for the video.what is a nickel anode tho?what can i use
It's just a large piece of nickel sold in sheets or strips. You can buy them in Amazon , eBay, or Caswell plating supplies online. The bigger the better.
I added a link to the anodes in the description for you.
Hi Brad. I can't find the bag of crystals and the bright nickel additive in your Amazon store. Could you give me direct links? Thanks so much!
caswellplating.com/regular-nickel-crystals-w-brightener-1-5-gal.html
This is the one ^^
Nickel isn't too difficult and it can come out very pretty and good protection too. It's not chrome, but also... the advantage is that it's not chrome.
Rumour has it you can also add a layer of rhodium plating on top as another home option, but i haven't tried.
Greetings Brad, love your channel and thanks for making the video. What material did you use for the positive electrodes? I am thinking about doing this to my Ping cat eye set which is just plane dull stainless. What type of pre treatment would they need? Just an acid dip before plating to remove oxidation? Also need to remove any paint. Thanks again
For stainless, you won't have to do any of these steps. You can just sand and polish them as-is. If you want to make them matte like their original finish, you can spray it with your sand blaster to dull it down after polishing (unless you want it shiny)
@@BradMeehan awesome friend, and what did you use for the positive electrodes in the bath?
Sir, Is nikle plating and chrome plating is same??,
Are you using AC current or DC current?? , Voltage ?.
They're different metals but the process is the same. Chrome plating is more expensive and has safety concerns for me. Caswell sells the chrome plating kits it you want to try it.
It's DC. and I use 3.5 volts and .5 amps for about 2 hours.
@@BradMeehan sir, Thank you.
How long do you leave the parts in the electroplating tank?
Anywhere from 30 minutes to ~2 hours. The longer it goes, the thicker the plating, but you risk flaws the longer it goes. They can all be buffed at the end, so even if you see darkening, etc. you can polish it.
Exciting videos!
I have a set of old titleist tour model from 81, they are fully playable as they are… But it would be really cool to have them in a mint condition.
Chroming seems as a no go as a DIY process!
How does the Nickel plating hold up for wear & tear?
Other then that I guess it is just to follow your videos with the mizuno clubs?
Great videos!!
The nickel is quite durable. And, once you understand the process, you can re-do the plating as it wears.
@@BradMeehan Only if you electrostrip the first plating first.
Nice job - Simple - Question= Is it same with birds in house seperate room ?
You have a pet bird?
That's what's up those nickel plated clubs are some 🔥
Was drinking coffee when you said “for my homies” and I spat it out all over my couch in laughter, I will be sending you the dry cleaning bill !!, but thanks for the info! Save me money and gives me confidence to DIY this!
I have a set of McGregors that I want to nickelplate, can I just tape the face over if I want to keep the face non-plated?
Ya thats probably the best set up i have seen yet cheers bro for posting i couldnt get nickel in large enough size guitar strings are nickel wound but went with nickel welding rods think they are 50% nickel so not as shiny but did the job and not rusting...
That's great. I'm glad you gave it a try.
Great video. How far will one mix go.? Like can you do several clubs in that one mix? How would you gauge when it's ready for replacement solution? Cheers!
It will last indefinitely of you keep it clean. You can add more distilled water to raise the level if it gets low. The inky thing you'll have to replace is the nickel anode because it gets eaten away as it sacrifices metal into the solution. I'll make a video about Tank Maintenance for you.
Is it possible to plate the everything but the club face? I.e. MacGregor CF4000 PT2 “Black Face” irons
You could either put tape over it, or spray paint the face with clear coat, then plate the whole club, then strip the paint so it's raw underneath.