How to Zinc plate at home: A beginner's guide.

In this video I demonstrate how to zinc plate parts at home using an off the shelf kit easily obtained from the Internet. I also cover common mistakes and tips to make the process easier and more repeatable.
Online tools for calculating surface area & current requirements:
caswellplating.com/surface.html
caswellplating.com/cdcalc.html

[@axionication]

Wonderfull videos. Gem of a way of presenting. Everything is there. No fluff and nonsense.

[@Demop_VW_garage]

Great instructions on this process, I'm setting up a 20 ltr kit soon but going with a plastic square tank for the plating that way the plates can hang not too close ;)

[@VJMotoResto]

Thanks for the comments. A square tank sounds ds like a great idea. I just used the ones the chemicals came in and stuck with it. I might reconsider if I want to do larger parts.😊

[@DutchedShedBuilds]

Really loved this video. I might have a go at some point. Nuts and bolts can get pretty expensive so this may help. Thanks for making the video!

[@VJMotoResto]

Glad you enjoyed the video. Definitely worth a go and saves money in the long run. Time consuming though but it's a labour of love after all 😊

[@robbateman7987]

I have used the Gateros stuff for a number of years now and find it gives good results with a small circulating pump, tried a bubbler and even with the anti-foam it was foaming too much for my liking. I found that decanting and filtering the electrolyte after a while helps. keep an eye on the PH too. my temp is about 24-28C for plating. Please also make sure the place you plate has good ventilation for your health and away from your bike as the fumes from electrolyte and acid will corrode the metal. great advantage of these kits is that you can just plate small batches as and when you need on a project as the local plates now have uped their charges quite a bit. Good video and very clear and neat work area. Practised my plating originally with vinegar and epson salts to get the techniques right then bought the kit and got really good shiny parts with the combination of brightener and passivates. Done all the bits on mt Z500 project in 2020 and redo my GS125 parts after every few winters. Made my own spreadsheet for bolts and nuts as JIS bolts are non standard but find that you can be out by 105 or so with no ill effects. Find a crushed bit of copper pipe gives a v good buss bar but you have to clean it off every session. Found also that a double rinse gives better results (less drag in-out) and good clean and most important a dry off and dry store of the anodes after a session. My electrolyte was changed after a few years as the plating was getting worse even with the recommended brightener top ups. on my second set of anodes too. Did my wheel spindles in two goes, shold have made a long narrow tank really. It is fun to do as much of the work yourself. I would also bake your high tensile bolts in the oven 200C for at least 90 mins to reduce the possibility of Hydrogen embrittlement due to the acid pickle and electrolyte effect on the metal. This is why i would NEVER do wheel spokes. Regards Rob B

[@VJMotoResto]

Some fantastic tips and advice there Bob! Many thanks for taking the time to reply.

[@UKPete]

Great video, thanks for the information!.

[@jimdonnelly5727]

Those look great

[@luckydubeinrc5165]

old school, lm 317 regulator, onto a darling-ton pair or 2n3055 transisitors, like an old psu unit, 25 amp job variable 3 to 28v , worx like a charm, transformer is 24v jobbie, at 25 amp. fan on th heatsinks , walla!

[@qivarebil2149]

Add salt if the process stops. It helps to carry the zinc onto the parts.

[@Braketech9]

Did you know !!! Your metal cleaning skills will be tested by the more dirty your water is and electrolyte is the more effort is required in cleaning your parts up. If you want your solutions to last longer make sure your part is spotless. Your welcome. The zinc anodes need to be completely under electrolyte. Loosing zinc. And don’t leave your anodes in the solution if you’re not plating. You get Zinc overload.

[@VJMotoResto]

Hey thanks for commenting and the great tips!

[@robmurg]

Where did you get your kit? Mine didn't include the surfactant bath, I wonder what difference that makes.
I bought a very cheap and submersible aquarium water pump and I run it in the plating bath to keep things moving. I tried bubbling air but that made a mess.
I have trouble getting even colours with the yellow passivate, it tends to come out blotchy. Any experience to share in that regard?

[@VJMotoResto]

I got it at eplating.co.uk/product/zinc-plating-kit/. The surfactant replaces the more traditional hydrochloric acid at the penultimate stage I believe. A pump is a good idea and recommended to provide a better finish but I've not found I need it to be honest. You might be leaving it in the yellow passivate too long if its blotchy. It never gives a perfectly uniform colour in my experience and can often contain a rainbow effect as well.

[@robmurg]

@@VJMotoResto Mine is the Gateros kit and there's just a rinse before passivating. I'll do some more experimenting, thanks for the response.

[@JohnSaint-zo7yy]

Cant find the link to the Amps guide you refer to. Could you please supply the link in the comments section? Great tutorial. Thanks

[@VJMotoResto]

@@JohnSaint-zo7yy caswellplating.com/cdcalc.html
If you choose zinc as the medium in the first drop down box, then enter the square inches followed by the calculate button, it will show the amps required. Hope that helps!

[@m.mujahidmujahid8445]

Hi