ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2020
- Just thought I’d make a quick video of how I am currently plating my BMW s38b36 hardware.
The kit I use: classic-plating.co.uk/product...
For the preparation of the parts, I use the muratic acid to start the process, as well as sand blasting and a wire wheel.
I have also added more buckets and tank heaters to make the job easier for me. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Makes everything look so much cleaner.
Hi E30, that is some of the nicest DIY plating I've seen. Your detail work really pays off.
Thanks man!! It takes a long while to get it right but i'd say it's worth it.
I have since upgraded the power supply and got some different buckets so that I can do larger/longer parts
@@BadE30 perfect job!!!
Fantastic result, thanks for all the effort in making the video!.
Excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to show us how it's done.
Hope it helped!
top quality plating and great attention to detail. will be doing this soon so good to see different ways of doing it...
Appreciate for the kind words! It is a great kit if you have the patience to get it to work well
Great video man! Loved the following of the build on insta so far but this video is really good. I might look into buying a kit myself👍🏻
awesome, i love seeing the finished product
Makes it worth it!
Well done. I just started doing zinc plating. Your attention to detail was helpful. Especially observing the "fizz" on the bolts before turning on the circulation pump. That will help me gauge the amperage with my digital rectifier. Cheers!
Glad it was helpful!
Great results! I got the same kit, will use your video as a guide. Thanks!
Great to hear! I do fancy making a small update video as there are a few things I’ve learnt through experience since posting this. Nothing major, but it’s helped me
@@BadE30 Thank you, looking forward to that update!
Thanks Bad E30. I've now gone from total ignorance of the process to having some vague idea, all thanks to you.
Great to hear! Understandably it’s a process that’s not well known, mainly the reason I made the video to help pass what I know over. Thanks😎
@@BadE30 Hello, thank you very much for your answer! 👍 I have tried what you mentioned with the heat gun for up to 20 min and then two days and nothing, I have also tried in the oven for 45 minutes at 55 ° C but everything I try gives me the same result. The pieces are very good but when handling them the passivate goes away very easily, the user guide I am following it to the millimeter and also before passivating I use nitric acid then transparent passivated and followed the yellow since the guide says that if the yellow passivate do that but neither. Sorry for the bible I've written. Congratulations on your videos, you look meticulous with what you do. I have subscribed to your channel, greetings from Spain.
Beautiful job! Thanks for the video and take care.
Thanks! Hope it helped😎
Thanks for sharing. You've given me some really helpful tips there.
Glad to hear it!
Nice results!! Fancy getting one of these kits myself!
Cool man!
Excellent work, thank you very much for sharing!
Appreciate the kind comment!
Great video. Helped me alot in rhe prep stage.
Glad it helped!
These look awesome man will be one sweet engine. All in the details 👌🏻. I think thus is exactly what I need to do to some of the bolts in my engine bay.
Would definitely recommend doing it whether that be getting your own kit or getting it sent off in batch to a company! Makes the world of difference.
Nice job! I bought a kit a while back and this makes me think I should crack on with it. Thank.
Nice one! Good luck to you.
I think the process you call passivating is actually a solution of Cobalt. This is a secondary passive (no electrical current needed) plating process which gives the zinc it's colour. Varying the time in the Cobalt solution will give colours ranging from light yellow, gold, blue, and purple etc. The process of passivating a metal is of removal, cleaning contaminants from a metal surface to stop corrosion for example to make stainless steel stainless. I hope this helps.
Nice results. Plating at home is a LOT more work than it looks (especially the prep involved if you want good results) and so it's nice to hear you mention how long it took. I've done it and have to say for me, it's not worth all the time/ mess/health risks and having nasty chemicals and acids around corroding nearby stuff, especially if you just need to do a couple of things at a time, with all the faff getting things set up.
You’ve hit the nail on the head there! It’s definitely not for everyone, and sometimes even I feel like it’s not worth it. I’m lucky to have a lot of space where i can leave it set up ready to just warm up when I need it. I keep everything covered as much as poss due to the chemicals, my lathe is right next to it and I’ve not seen any corrosion on that so far!
Really nice work 👊🏾
Thanks man!
Great demo. Cheers.
Thanks for watching!
Jezus christ what a work mate! Thought id look up a quick n easy zincoating guid. But they all had results i didnt find worth my time. Your result definitly is worth it, but what a work jeez. Think ill just send em off lol! Thanks for the vid
Haha! You’re not wrong about the work time. It is nice n easy to send them off for sure
Fantastic overview, even showing some problem solving. Also your editing was good as you did not make the viewer watch a bunch of unnecessary footage.
Thanks for the kind words, it was my first ever video! Had the kit for a year now and learnt quite a bit along the way, will look to make an update
Looks so inspiring.
Thanks! It’s a great process
Amazing job mate
Thanks man!
Thanks for the video - I've just bought the same kit. I think you've 'nailed it' in terms of needing a 'system' to deal with the steps. I'm going to try to get something similar to yours setup. Subscribed!
Good work! I have since upgraded the power supply to accommodate larger surface areas and to give me more adjustability. Other than that, it really just takes experience to iron out the few faults, I've found with a more powerful supply I started to burn parts due to going for too much current!
Link for the supply I purchased: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B017KQG6EA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@Jamie - Is this kit better than you can find at Caswell plating as I dont what to go through them. I want an alternate source. Thanks in advance for your reply.
Awesome video and great process control. I might get into this if I can figure out a plating "lab" setup. Maybe in the basement!
Thanks for the kind words, I’d definitely recommend it if you have the space and patience!
Tell you what buddy, I did chrome plating many years ago like 33 years ago obviously on a bigger scale but that's exactly how it's done. I'm doing my car so gonna be ordering all of this to do mine, cheers for the great reminder. I'm gonna assume it's not cheap however, cheaper than going to a plater. Nice job
Thanks for the great comment! Always a pleasure to know experienced people have watched these videos.
The kit isn’t too cheap no, and not quick either. But i do prefer it to sending them off for plating or buying new
GREAT !!!
Looks like out of the factory.
___ regards from HN
Thanks!
THANKS MATE, IVE LEARNED
Hope it helped😎
Excellent video.
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing mate, you work precisely like me, detail-oriented, almost perfectionist, but we know how it massacres us, time is against us, and the world today cries out for high production
Thanks for the comment. I am glad there are others like you doing the same.
Nice job.... awesome.
Thanks! Hope it was a help to you😎
Try using bicarbonate of soda after the hydrochloric acid dip, it neutralizes the acid , it might help with fewer casualties 👍, excellent video..
Hi, thanks for the advice! I will look into that, as it is horrible stuff! Thanks
I need to order the kit still
Great video!
Thanks!
Ive been plating for a few years now, have used the same kit. I tend to sandblast then rotary wire brush to get shine on. Ill plate big parts first you can put a lot more current through and the solution becomes ionised and more active then which is better for smaller parts on lower currents. I air blast parts (you can see the sheen appear) then dry over radiator but once air blasted you can touch straight away. Note if your using zinc you can replate carbs as they are zinc alloy in fact any zinc aluminium plates well, I blast these with soda first. Good video
Great comment! Interesting about the solution ionising after large parts, definitely something I will look to consider. Thanks
@@BadE30 I will deliberaty plate large parts in a cold solution 10deg C It appears I can crank up the current to 10A and the plating "pushes" into corners and voids without burning on spikes and corners. As the solution becomes more ionised and active (also warms under the higher current so Im unsure if its chemical change in the solution or temperature) you loose the ability to plate evenly on big pieces. Never had any luck getting the yellow passivate to work so thats on the cards thanks to your channel. Its so much easier when renovating motorbikes to plate as you go (get all the bolts back in the same places) and there is nothing more distressing than paying for the privilege of that rare rare part being lost at platers.
Good idea with the rasp 23:52
Thanks, mate
Hope it helped😎
Good color
Thanks! It can be quite temperamental with the colour, but it slowly mastering it
Great video, thank you. Seems the Pro kit is the kit for me for an up and coming restoration :)
Thanks! Hope it all goes well
Good stuff
Appreciate it
Amazing results! How'd you get around the hydrogen embrittlement?
That’s awesome
Thanks! A labour intensive task, but always worth it
I like the paintings on the wall, who did them?
When preparing parts for EZP plating I always use a brass wire rotary brush, as opposed to a steel one, to clean the parts. I think the brass is a bit kinder to the parts.
Interesting idea, i may put a brass wheel on the other side to prep the parts!
I just bought the shinny nickel kit from classic platting! Your video is so far the best guide thanks 👍 any tips for a newbie just about to start vintage enduro bike restoration?
Great to hear, my tip would be; shiny in, shiny out. Make sure you take time to prep the items which will help you get consistent results whilst you’re altering your process
After a while, and it won't take long trust me, you will have cross contamination by using the same Di water rinse shared between the first 3 processes
Better off rinsing with the method you used over the orange bucket. After the third and last rinse (plated parts) then swill in a container with Di water and in your passivate of choice. Using the Di water pre passivate will keep any minerals that would be in tap water to an absolute minimum. I also use an airline nozzle to first dry off the parts (about 15-20 psi)
Great info here. Happy to try improve my rinsing processes!
Good.
looking really nice. great result! ... except that one :P
I suggest degreasing again after wire wheeling as the wheel and the drill chuck likely are contaminated with grease or oil.
Good idea, thanks!
9:20 isn't that what this is?
What is the wire wheel and drill is new?
good. thank for vedio
next i want to know
plastic to nickel electroplaing
Hello, how many acid you use for the dry acid dip? 92% Des.water, 8% muriatic acid? Or do you use something else? But thank you very much for the vid. Great results..!!
Hi man, awesome video.
I have never do any zinc plating and I would like to try it. I have some oil and water pipes to zinc be plated.
Coul you tell me please where did you buy your kit and how much chemicals I need?
Any web link?
Let say for brake calipers to.
Thanks,
Nino.
A very good result overall, with the "damaged" ones , did you try running them back into the muriatic acid to take off the plating and run them through the other baths and replacing them again?
If the plating is poor, a quick dip in muratic acid and i can do it again!
nice
Thanks 😎
❤❤❤❤
Love that you have the temp+time written on the buckets. That's a nice detail.
... Though, if [CC] is any indicator, you need to speak a little more loud and proud.
Thanks! This was my first video and I was only using my phone mic to pick up audio, not the best idea looking back..
👍👍👍
Amazing, top video, 👏 I'm looking to do this when I restore my P1, do you buy this as a kit or have to source them separately ?
As a full kit from classic plating uk! Easiest way to get all the materials necessary. I did buy extra buckets and an improved power supply though
Have you ever done valve covers, like the old Moroso gold colored ones?
Great video, very informative. I noticed that you set up an acid bath to use between the plating and the pasavate, but didn't see you use it. Was that intentional?
Hi, thanks! Yes it was intentional. At the time i was struggling with the pre passivate dip, it was causing burning on the part within seconds. Found it fine to miss out the step at the time, didn’t get an issue with the passivate adhesion. Been told it was due to a lack of rinsing between steps
@@BadE30 How much rinsing is sufficient after the electrolyte stage to ensure the burning doesn't occur?
Nicely done. In your estimation will this be durable when exposed to the harsh environment of a car?
Very durable! I haven't tried a salt spray test on my own parts as of yet, but other experiments using the zinc/nickel coating show extremely positive results! My BMW came with plated bolts as standard and it can still be seeing on the 30 year old hardware!
Brilliant job! Just keep your heatgun away from that canister just incase it moves from the vibration
Also - can step 1&2 be taken away as you allready done this with the HCL & wire brush
It’s only argon/co2 for welder. But yeh not the best setup, this has changed now. Also if you mena the steps one and two of the plating process, they are essential for correctly degreasing and etching the surface in preparation for plating
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for sharing that. Do the parts keep their colour/shine after plating, or do they go dull and dark like copper does over time?
Mine have all stayed shiny, if done right the coating should not change over timen
The acid you used was concentrated and the metal surface was reacting with it turning it into matte finish. Should add some distilled water in the acid.
I use it as a concentrate to remove rust/debris from the surface of the parts, if diluted it simply takes longer! A quick wire wheel process after and it’s a perfect surface to plate with
@@BadE30 Wire wheel before etching. You will just end uo contaminating your parts again after wire brushing.
Great video…can you explain zinc and nickel anodes…is it one of each to produce a mixture?
Isn’t it cheaper to just replace bolts with stainless? Unless you want the passivated finish.
the addition of nickel to the process helps to increase the corrosion resistance. It may be easier to replace them all, but that won't suit the finish that i am going for! (also got to be careful of metal-metal corrosion with S/S)
Hey thank you for you❤ can you tell me please what is the voltage? This one piece? Thank you!!
Im in the middle of setting the same kit up
I only have one heater though so is this more important to use in the electrolyte or better in the alkaline degreaser?
Also i noticed that you didnt use the nitric acid solution...i cant quite work out what it is for other than a step prior to passivating?! Is it necessary?
Cheers
I only bought more heaters as I was working in colder climates when I first purchased. Heaters are usually £10ish so I thought it was best to buy a few extra, I’d definitely say the electrolyte it more important for the heat though.
I have used the nitric acid before the passivate but found it to damage some parts if not completely rinsed causing the parts to stain black, I have started to use it more often as I have now improved the way I rinse items. But I don’t see much of a difference between when I use it or don’t use it
I subscribed 😁
hello from greece,is better with sandblasting or with wirewheel?
To get a shiny finish, you need to wirebrush/polish the hardware. Sand blasting gives a dull finish which is shown with the plating too.
I still use sand blasting on the larger parts to clean first, then wire wheel before plating
Hi E30 very informative video, I have been looking into this for a while to do bits on my golf, have you tried anything as big as a hub carrier and if so how were the results? Thanks and again great video 👍
Thanks for the kind words. Larger parts simply require a larger power source. I have since upgraded to a 15amp variable source, meaning I can do larger parts, just requires extra wiring etc to cope with the higher current. If too large, there are companies out there that can plate it for you!
@@BadE30 Thanks for the reply, I think I'll give it a shot myself before out sourcing lol, what's the worst that could happen 🤦♂️😄, all the best and good luck with the build 👍
Haha!! Always better to do it yourself, that’s what I enjoy to do anyway!
Great video. Given me the confidence to give it a go myself after my local Platers lost nearly 50% of the batch I gave them.
Can I ask why you haven't used the electrolytic Cleaning kit and decided on more a manual process using HCL?
Thanks! That has always been my worry with giving my parts to someone else..
With the cleaning, I researched into the process and found the electrolytic cleaning did exactly what I can do with a few steps! If i had the extra space I would go for it but i am pretty full up currently
Man I'm sorry to hear that, must have been a fly by night operator,a serious company that does plating would never do that, i mean they might lose a bolt or 2 but 50%? if i was restoring a Ferrari and they lost 50 percent of my hardware there would be a lawsuit coming round the bend, lol
the finish is very very good! I tried 4-5 different shops here in Germany and because of enviromental laws the resulting quality allways was okish to very bad. No good results
But honestly you should wear a respirator mask with filter, for sure!
what was your motivation to try it DIY and not asking a shop to do it?
I wouldn't put the bolts in muratic acid for 30 minutes... once the factory zinc or nickle plating is gone the acid is off to the races at removing the iron from the bolt.
hence why your solution is dark yellow. its has a strong presence of iron(III) chloride. 10 minutes is my limit i usually go for 4-8minutes depending on part size.
if i leave it in for much longer the part starts to degrade and become pitted.
Hi, thanks for the comment. 30 mins is my upper limit on the badly corroded bolts, but you’re right. I’d usually check on them after 10 mins and go from there. Will look to reduce this time and inspect them
Hello E30,great video and awesome work! Can you name the list of materials you used? Lots of Thanks
Hi, I purchased the kit from Classic Plating UK. They have the list of materials on their website!
Me podrías decir cuales son los ácidos que utilizas ? Para que quede así ese resultado
Just doing research for my E28/M5 with S38 engine restoration! Thanks for your investment in this video. The finish of the throttle bodies in the lead-in are nice, what process would you recommend for my M5?
thanks for the comment! Have you seen my other videos of the restoration of some other s38 parts? A lot more videos like that are to come! If you're looking at restoring your engine, I would highly recommend vapour blasting the components and zinc plating the hardware
@@BadE30 Thanks, In the US Caswell has some nice kits and documentation. I have been doing sandblast or bead blasting, along with wire wheels for 4-5 decades, but the plating (lack of it) has yielded less than durable results. What is the advantage/improvement of vapor over dry bead, or tumbling with appropriate media? Time or results in surface finish? This process is new for me, and doing some research on this.
Yes, I am looking at many of your videos, quite an excellent series!
I have a system for alodining (zinc chromate surface conversion) aluminum learned from building my airplane. I assume similar discipline of dip buckets and contamination control in rinses is in order.
is there any way to speed this process up or do you have to do them one by one?
The speed is tricky to change as it is a slow process, however the batch size can be increased with a larger power supply. I now have a 15amp supply (from 6amps), which means I can do much larger batches/larger parts!
Can you do this to off the shelf electroplated (zinc) bolts and hardware? Or need to strip to bare metal first?
The dry acid dip does remove the previous plating, however I’d recommend stripping the hardware first
Incredible results !! I have had a classic plating kit but only zinc, when doing the whole process in principle the results are good but after 2 days when I touch the pieces or screws if I rub a little the passivate is not well adhered. How many days do you wait to manipulate the pieces?
Hi! Sounds like you’re not getting a good adhesion of the passivate, I usually blow down the parts with a heat gun for ten mins then leave for 2 days. And you can handle them totally fine! I’d double check the troubleshooting manual for that issue.
@@BadE30 Hi, thanks for your response! 👍 if I have also tried a heat gun oven 45 min at 55 ° C but nothing, the user guide says that if the yellow passivate does not adhere well, try to apply blue passivate first and then yellow, I am also using a bath for 20 seconds of nitric acid which in theory is to improve the adherence of passivates. Congratulations on your videos, I have subscribed to your channel. Greetings from Spain.
@@mikebm367 thanks for the kind words! Your issue very strange! How well do you prepare the items before plating? I’ve been told this is very important for such adhesion. Also i know that too much brightener doesn’t help the passivate to stick
@@BadE30 If I acid prepare the pieces to remove the old plating and then brush them until the metal is pristine and it looks clean and uniform, then to the alkaline degreaser tank, pickling tank and then to the plating tank with a water rinse on each step, in the plating I usually leave it between 15-20 minutes and they come out with a very beautiful and shiny silver. As for the polish, I did have to add because the pieces came out with a slightly matte tone, but before adding the same thing happened to me with the passivation. I added 1ml per liter.
Hi Mike, The yellow passivate will fail for only one of two reasons.
1. The rinsing and dipping of the item, before passivating is very important. The Alekos brightener can leave a greasy organic coating on the zinc plate. If this is not removed, then you can have bare patches and the passivate can be easily removed. This is the reason why we include the nitric acid rinse in the kit. If in doubt repeat the rinsing process twice. To test for the presence of grease use the "water break" test. Trickle water on to the item. It should run off in a clean sheet. If it beads (like after you wax your car), then it still has grease on it. Don't always expect a bubbling reaction with the nitric acid. It's primary function is to remove the grease.
Check for grease with the water break test see the following links for how to perform the test.
th-cam.com/video/md8JJow69w0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/7LeI6oDJI7o/w-d-xo.html
2. Insufficient thickness of the zinc plate. The passivate eats away at the zinc plate during the passivate process. If any areas of the plate have poor coverage, it will be removed during the process. Aim for a plating thickness of about 25 microns before passivating. Areas that don't have a good line of sight to an anode will have poor coverage.
If you have any more issues, please don't hesitate to contact us sales@classic-plating.co.uk
Is there zinc and nickle in the solution or is the title saying it the same process because I want to plate it with a zinc nickel alloy
Wating for your reply
Do you do the yellow zinc, plating looking for someone to do two bracket
I've done this and still do it but a bit of added on warning, while you can get fantastic results, it's a massive, massive pain and really a long drawn out process! If you have to set all this up everytime it's probably not worth the time and effort. Depends on the look you're going for but it's very much an aesthetic process. If you don't want the look, there's other ways to rejuvenate original parts! Great video though, you show how much of a pain this can be!
You’re totally right. I started this due to covid where I had a lot of spare time and no way of taking it elsewhere, I now change between doing it myself and sending big batches off to a company to do!
@@BadE30 for me it was fun to do a few times and then became seriously labor intensive once that fun wore off! I also will still do it but more often than not I'm having it done.
@@JeffSmith-eq3kc very true! But glad I did it myself, I’m sure you feel the same way
@@BadE30 absolutely.
do you have an assembly video with those nice parts... would be interesting
Most of my youtube videos use my plated parts during the restoration!
So what was the nitric acid for? You went straight from plating bath to passivate?
The nitric acid is used for additional adhesive of the passivate, however at the time of the video i was struggling with the acid as it would damage my parts. This was my own fault for using too much power when plating creating scars on the parts and also insufficient rinsing process. Once you have the process working well, the nitric acid can be used as it should!
Amazing works, what the name of that orange stuff?
Thanks! It’s known as a yellow passivate, that’s what gives it the yellow/gold tint. Also helps protect the zinc coating
Also, have you tried it on high temp parts, such as brake disks?
I have not myself, but seen it done a lot of expensive parts. Seems to hold up absolutely fine!
Hi mate..What current settings do you set to roughly.Im just getting set up but a little confused on the power supply setup!!
Tricky to say, however I have since upgraded my power supply to show me the readouts. i've used it in some of my newer videos, it looks like for small parts i use 3v and 1.7amps, i have used up to 10 amps before on large pieces but it starts to go a bit mad up there!
Thanks for the reply and sharing your knowledge much appreciated!..Keep up the good work!
What kind of wire are you using to hang your bolts into the electrolyte? Thanks
Hi, i use 1mm pure copper wire. This can be purchased from ebay in 10m rolls
hi, can you buy "new" bolts etc, and do the same process? as new stuff "looks" lie this is done already, but as we all know, it doesn't take long for it to go rusty, also, do you still need to clean "new" stuff thoroughly?
Yes I have done this many times so that mine have the same finish! Just needs blasting or wire wheeling then do the process as normal
Hi,
Is the website where I can buy this kit reliable? As there is only payment by card on their site.
Thank you
I had a kit like this. Done some parts with it and the looked good but after a whil it al started peeling of. Also hated the smell of the plating tank when te heater was in it.
The acid dip before the passivate helps massively with the stiction
@@BadE30 i had a complete set wich i bought in the UK, just like OP. Mine was zinck nickel set
Is it possible to do this to the inside of a motorcycle oil tank that's new with minor leaks? I built the tank.
Some people do not like this plating on internal parts where there is potential for flaking to clog filters etc.. I’d look more towards a sealant for the small leaks!
Sandblasting gets all the rust off & to clean metal without toxic chemicals
I use my blasting cabinet for the larger components, i find the acid dip more effective on smaller parts which are hard to handle
You might laugh but i always sandblast my parts first then i use a old electric chip fryer filled with water & some degreesr & boil them clean ive had it years it works brilliant has a parts washer you need the temperature write for the yellow pasavate otherwise itll look crap i have same air compressor has yours too if yours is the 100ltr version mines a ryhas compressor but they stopped making the 100 litre version i think they only make the 50ltr now
Very interesting with the cleaning procedure! The large compressor is great, large enough for all big jobs
@@BadE30 definitely is mate
Would like to ask if i can do zinc plating on top of a nickel plated. Appreciate your insight. Thank you!
Usually the process of plating requires the acid etch which will remove any prior plating. Probably best to initially remove the previous plating to not affect the new coat!
@@BadE30 i have a plate with a controlled hole diameter 5F8. Now the hole is big so what i did was i do nickel plating which builds up causing the hole to be in spec but the spec is to do zinc plating.
So i was thinking to plug the hole using silicone (nickel plated hole) and do zinc plating. Is it possible to do so?
Great video, thank you! Have you got a link to a good tank heater to use? Thanks :)
Thanks! It’s just a simple fish tank heater, got from a pet store!
@@BadE30 Great, thanks. Final question, i really like the Nickel finish, is there any reason to continue on with the final stage in your video whereby you coated it with the yellow finish?
@@adrianhughes2163 you can use either a yellow or blue (which is more of a clear) passivate to suit your needs. I have both which can be seen in the video, and use whichever is suited to what I am plating. Most of my car hardware was yellow passivated so I predominantly use that
@@BadE30 Thanks for your time and thoughts, and thanks again for doing the video :)