Mini Split Book on Our Website- www.acservicetech.com/mini-split-book Mini Split Book on Amazon- amzn.to/3ytHJSs Mini Split Book on TruTech Tools- www.trutechtools.com/BooksGuides Mini Split E-Book on Google- play.google.com/store/books/details?id=HN-iEAAAQBAJ Mini Split E-Book on Apple- books.apple.com/us/book/id6445178399
@@dennisnoone7427 say the house has 2 bedrooms 1 bathroom 1 kitchen and 1 living area that total 1200 sf do they make the evaporator In enough different sizes to have 1 correct size evaporator in each room?
@@scottjones7279 not sure of other brands but for example daikin comes in 9k, 12k, 15k, 18k and 24k btuh, there are some free load calculators online, which may get you in a ball park. in your case with 1200 sft house a concealed ducted minisplit maybe a better option
@@scottjones7279 what I find with "ductless" your average home, bedrooms end up being oversized, which is fine. Lucky due to the inverter and fan speeds you can turn down the capacity. For example. I had a customer that I got 6k btu units for his bedrooms but the heat gain was only about 4k. The solution is to just run the fans in low fan speed. All ductless capacities are rated at their peak( high fan speed)
Great job! I really like the easy access on the lower wall unit for installation and cleaning. I wish all the wall hung ceiling cassettes were this easy...
Also since C&H is just a Midea clone I rather buy direct from Pioneer or Senville. Senville has upped their prices but I like how they made the electrical cover on the outdoor unit - you can take it off since the part that holds the conduits is stationary and not part of the cover as it is on C&H and Pioneer.
Nice video I would like some troubleshooting charging and all that good stuff wiring zones, signs of to look for on a call Haven't really worked on this units much. Keep up the great videos
It would be nice to see a similar video in the future, but focusing more on the various types of mini-split outdoor units: single-split and multi-split (both shown here) on the one hand, and VRF/VRV on the other hand, and the implications regarding piping and electrical/communication line differences. Small two-piped VRF/VRV systems (e.g., Mitsubishi Electric City Multi) could be very interesting when (e.g., gas-based) heating systems covering only one floor of an apartment house are to be replaced by air-to-air heat pumps/split ACs. The VRF/VRV outdoor unit can be practically placed anywhere in the garden, comes with just two pipes and a signal cable, and the indoor units can be connected in parallel mode by using Y-connectors as each of them comes with its internal EEV. Very interesting are branch box controllers which allow the connection of typical (cheaper and more feature-rich) multi-split indoor units to a VRF/VRV outdoor unit. Very great channel, by the way! Thanks for all of these videos!
I love all your content. I want to dog into the airflow side of things a little more. Can you make some videos on how to size ducts? Thanks for all your hard work!
Acca manual D for residential is where you want to start. Also check out the Hvac school podcast. There were a few on how to use equal friction method. A personal favorite of mine
Hey Craig. Thanks for another great video. Could you also explain how to properly install and seal minisplit linesets? There is notorious leaky minisplit lineset issue, when linsets develop formicary corrosion within 2 years.
Honestly mostly controls , bells and whistles. These ductless are still considered vrv/vrf but most in the industry will separate them in the same way. Vrv and ductless
One of the problems people have mentioned is the condensate drainage. It can easily get clogged. You have not talked about that..yet..halfway through. Particularly for the wall unit. Does the condensate end up in the crawlspace?
Great video love to See more videos on how to properly troubleshoot minisplits and also properly charge them.....I hear u don't use the superheat and subcooling method 🤔
Keep in mind if you're adding additional zones, most places tell you that you can, as long as what is currently running is more than 50% of the refrigerant.
Wonder how far away technology is that allows you to run a pex style tube for these instead of copper? That would speed things up. I feel it's coming eventually. Great video.
There is a product called yoga pipe but it's rated for cooling only applications. Trust me soft copper is as about as easy as it gets already, especially in these sizes
Out of all the indoor units, which is best for maintenance? I would rather have 1 slim duct per room mounted in my attic but concerned it is worse for general maintenance. The ceiling cassette however appears to be the worst one when it comes to thorough cleaning/maintenance. Thanks for the great video
I installed the same ducted Mini-Split system as part of a McCool set-up. The controller on the side has the IR receiver making it almost impossible to use a better thermostat given that the only thermostat upgrades offered are basically an IR remote that must have line of site to the receiver, which of course is in the attic. Not a good set-up especially when the stock thermostat that comes with the unit is not good. Videos of the system on our channel.
For a mini split system the cable connecting indoor unit and out door unit, only one cable is for the communication, one for groun and the rest two is for the 220V AC.
If I currently have central air, could I take out the Air Handler and replace it with 5 slim duct units running to my existing ducts?? Also, If I were to install these in my attic would that cause issues due to the high levels of Humidity in South Florida?
Most mini-splits I install are Gree brand. However, I always like to hear other's opinions as to why they prefer the brands they install most often. As such, you appear to prefer C&H over other brands (just going by the fact that your mini split videos are all based on C&H). Why do you prefer that particular brand?? What are the pluses and minuses of C&H over others?? And how good is the post-install support channels from C&H and/or their distributors??........Thanks
Can you make a video on how to troubleshoot an inverter AC where the outdoor PCB isn't supplying voltage to the indoor unit but has high voltage at the input terminals
Hi, thanks for sharing all your knowledge and I have a question, if I install a 5 zone minisplit system and at the time of the installation I only install 1 indoor unit and another a few weeks later, what would be the correct procedure, each system is independent from one to another? Meaning that I just install and connecting the piping, leak test and vacuum the system and release the refrigerant to the new indoor unit without evacuating the entire system, or should I install all 5 zones at once thanks in advance.
Love the video I have a question I see a lot of mini split heat pumps for sale on eBay just the outside unit my question is do you have to use the same company air handler can I go with a different company as long as the beat to use are the same or do I have to go with the same company as the heat pump ?
Hello, I got by chance (as part of a payment) 2 brand new units, each one has the Indoor Unit wall mounted type. As you said this type of indoor unit is designed to be mounted on the top of the wall, near the ceiling. Actually, I thinking to install this unit in a place where only heating is required. No cooling is needed at all. In such a case, may I install the split in the wall near the floor instead of near the ceiling? is it more efficient near the floor than near the ceiling if it is only used for heating purposes? the Flaps would be about 1 foot from the floor. In such a case, I think air circulation and convection would be ok. Can you please give me your thought about it?
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) th-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
I have a brand new home I am planning to build from BBC scratch 4,600 Sq feet I really would like to go full mini split , it has walk in closets and 5 bed 6 bath , can a mini system be used to cool and heat the entire house ?
A good point to emphasize here, is that ducted units only can push through very small lengths of duct. IOW, they are low static applications vs a typical air handler that can handle high static.
Med and some have high static. If you size your duct correctly you can get some decent straight length of duct in. Avoid turns. Iv installed a unit with .04 inwc with a 40 foot reducing truck duct and successfully
I have a brand new home I am planning to build from scratch 4,600 Sq feet I really would like to go full mini split , it has walk in closets and 5 bed 6 bath a huge open concept area , can a mini system be used to cool and heat the entire house and how would I design such a system
Gooday i have a split ac unit which is leaking gas in the indoor unit which i cant find can i replace the indoor unit with a different make indoor unit
The problem is that the outdoor unit does not lend itself to brazing directly as the fittings are only flare. Sure you could do that with the indoor unit, but then you need purge gas during brazing, and as these units will not last 25 years, service will need to cut the lines to swap in a new unit.
Most manufacturers let you go tight anywhere from 6 to 9 inches but use your best judgment on the room. If the room is long is can help to be mount higher. Of course mounting it in a convenient location when you come back to service is a great idea
The install manual has those dimensions of how close to the ceiling it can be. In general you want that unit up high to pull in warm air off the ceiling, as the vane is typically set to blow slightly downward into the room.
On the wall mounted unit, can the liquid and gas line go up into the ceiling/attic and the condensate line go out through the wall? The ourside uint will be at the back of the house and there is only one wall that will be in the back. I would like to run the refrigerant lines up into the attic space then out to the back of the house.
Yes, liquid and gas lines can run any direction. You just don't want to loop them, or have a lot of big dips. Condensate line just needs to run downhill from the unit in any direction.
@@da324 horizontal loops are fine. As long as the piping is correctly sized, the velocity of the refrigerant will carry the oil through a small single loop without any problems.
On my desktop PC, I can put the mouse pointer anywhere on the play indicator bar. I see the chapters, and can start anywhere I want. I don't understand is this a smart phone issue?
Not bad I had to get a new outdoor board for a Mitsubishi unit out of Warrenty it was less the $200. With that being said you usally get anywhere from 7-10 years on parts for these depending on manufacturers
You really want to pull a vacuum as any air left in the system is non condensable, and it will be pumped through the compressor and take up some of the usable volume of the condenser. It will stay there as the condensed refrigerant will keep it from circulating. This leads to higher head pressures, and with R410a, they are already too damn high. If you can't get a cheap vacuum pump (harbor freight has a two stage), rent one (try your local auto parts store, some have these for rent, basically you put a deposit down for the value of the pump and when returned you get that back), you could purge the air from the lines. Understand if the copper line was open to the air for too long, water vapor will be left in the system, and it does bad things with the oil in the system. So a quality install, requires evacuating the system.
@@f.hababorbitz thank you for your reply 🙏. The technician who installed my ac didn't do a vacuum, i think he just pushed the valve thingy to release the air . I'll get an other technician to do a vacuum if it's possible now.
@@marwansalim6662 The problem is the system charge would have to be removed, and as that is contaminated, it will be thrown out. If that tech did a good enough job of purging and the line set he used were kept capped and clean, I would not worry about it. Every time service hoses are used, they are purged, not evacuated, so it is an OK practice. The indoor unit came pressurized with nitrogen and then capped, so it was clean and free of water vapor. If his install was quick, and not during a rain, then all should be well.
To elaborate, with gauge hoses, they are short, and predictable to air removal with purge. But the line set is long with the added evaporator tubing, so how well purge works is a function of total flow volume to remove all the air.
For a single zone unit, cap tube is located at the condensing unit, at least in the 3 brands I've installed, Turbo Air, Diakin, Mitsubishi. Some brands use the EEV for single zone as well.
@@f.hababorbitz those would of been non inverter type ductless. Not even sure they make them anymore, at least not in my market. If the unit is an inverter, it needs to have a EEV, it's the only way it can work under the large variety of loads
@@stevengalipault2395 I stand corrected. I based this on looking at the diagram in the service manual. But they combined the inverter and noninverter designs. And the inverter design would not work correct with a cap tube restriction device. You can still get the non inverter designs, as they are SEER 13 or less and cheaper then the inverter products. I am wanting to know the reliability of these as getting electronic assemblies either are non procurable, or only sold to dealers on record. The failure I'm concerned with is the inverter board, as they don't use any conformal insulation coatings on these circuit cards, and I've seen web blogs from southern location and tropics that complain about bugs or small lizards crawling in, and caused high voltage arcing over to the low voltage circuitry on the circuit boards. I was expecting to see that in the Diakin, but they left the board exposed to the internal elements. I live where the heat pump would be usable for a short period of time (gets too damn cold very fast) and I worry about the defrost cycle producing vapor off the coil, and recondensing on the outdoor circuit assembly. I've not found any information on long term reliability of any brand. I don't know how good Midea is as they seem to be the major supplier of all these, included name brand USA manufacture products.
And all of these literally ALL of these are made by Midea and rebadged so seek out the best service and warranty rather than the brand because you think A is better than B.
Mini Split Book on Our Website- www.acservicetech.com/mini-split-book
Mini Split Book on Amazon- amzn.to/3ytHJSs
Mini Split Book on TruTech Tools- www.trutechtools.com/BooksGuides
Mini Split E-Book on Google- play.google.com/store/books/details?id=HN-iEAAAQBAJ
Mini Split E-Book on Apple- books.apple.com/us/book/id6445178399
More ductless videos! They are becoming more popular we need all the help we can get
I agree 100%👍👍
You are the one of the greatest Instructor for the HVAC Industry. thank you so much. Keep it up. I got your book by the way.
Great content, would love to see more videos on minisplits
Like sizing
@@scottjones7279 sizing is done by a manual j calculations
@@dennisnoone7427 say the house has 2 bedrooms 1 bathroom 1 kitchen and 1 living area that total 1200 sf do they make the evaporator In enough different sizes to have 1 correct size evaporator in each room?
@@scottjones7279 not sure of other brands but for example daikin comes in 9k, 12k, 15k, 18k and 24k btuh, there are some free load calculators online, which may get you in a ball park. in your case with 1200 sft house a concealed ducted minisplit maybe a better option
@@scottjones7279 what I find with "ductless" your average home, bedrooms end up being oversized, which is fine. Lucky due to the inverter and fan speeds you can turn down the capacity. For example. I had a customer that I got 6k btu units for his bedrooms but the heat gain was only about 4k. The solution is to just run the fans in low fan speed. All ductless capacities are rated at their peak( high fan speed)
Thanks Mig! I passed my EPA UNIVERSAL on the first try with your help!
Excellent!
Love it. Would like to see more on the inverter drive and troubleshooting mini splits.
Great job! I really like the easy access on the lower wall unit for installation and cleaning. I wish all the wall hung ceiling cassettes were this easy...
Also since C&H is just a Midea clone I rather buy direct from Pioneer or Senville. Senville has upped their prices but I like how they made the electrical cover on the outdoor unit - you can take it off since the part that holds the conduits is stationary and not part of the cover as it is on C&H and Pioneer.
Hey Craig in the future will you go over checking charge on minis, diagnostics on controls and maybe city multi ?
Very helpful. Thank you! Particularly on the low wall units and on the ceiling/wall units.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video
I would like some troubleshooting charging and all that good stuff wiring zones, signs of to look for on a call
Haven't really worked on this units much.
Keep up the great videos
Would love to see a video discussing max line set lengths.
It would be nice to see a similar video in the future, but focusing more on the various types of mini-split outdoor units: single-split and multi-split (both shown here) on the one hand, and VRF/VRV on the other hand, and the implications regarding piping and electrical/communication line differences. Small two-piped VRF/VRV systems (e.g., Mitsubishi Electric City Multi) could be very interesting when (e.g., gas-based) heating systems covering only one floor of an apartment house are to be replaced by air-to-air heat pumps/split ACs. The VRF/VRV outdoor unit can be practically placed anywhere in the garden, comes with just two pipes and a signal cable, and the indoor units can be connected in parallel mode by using Y-connectors as each of them comes with its internal EEV. Very interesting are branch box controllers which allow the connection of typical (cheaper and more feature-rich) multi-split indoor units to a VRF/VRV outdoor unit. Very great channel, by the way! Thanks for all of these videos!
I love all your content. I want to dog into the airflow side of things a little more.
Can you make some videos on how to size ducts?
Thanks for all your hard work!
Acca manual D for residential is where you want to start. Also check out the Hvac school podcast. There were a few on how to use equal friction method. A personal favorite of mine
@@stevengalipault2395 thanks man. Yea I watch Hvac school, they’re also fantastic. I’ll have to find that subject. Thanks again.
Hey Craig. Thanks for another great video. Could you also explain how to properly install and seal minisplit linesets? There is notorious leaky minisplit lineset issue, when linsets develop formicary corrosion within 2 years.
Thank you for that piece of important information, continue teach us.
Will do!
Nice video , I would love to learn more about the device they use in large building that is used to temper the air
Great video. Only one question. Who will fix this inverter when electronics will break? 😃
A service tech!
Great job am really educated on your project
Great. Thank you. Could you make a video about the difference between vrv and multi-zone mini-splits units? Thanks
Honestly mostly controls , bells and whistles. These ductless are still considered vrv/vrf but most in the industry will separate them in the same way. Vrv and ductless
Thanks for the awesome content. Love the chapters you’ve added
Excellent Training videos could you please detail where and how to place the magnet rings on the concealed duct unit?
Never miss the opportunity to insist that all flaired line set connections MUST BE torqued per manufactures specification.
I just elbow tighten them, then i tighten them till they strip, then when they leak i just sell a new unit.
/s
Great content 👍🏾 I love installing ceiling cassettes Mitsubishi electric 🇯🇵
Can you install in a typical drywall ceiling? I am thinking new construction so it would be easier to run the lines.
@@waynebeck7801 yes so long as you’ve got the room above 👌🏾
@@jamainebrown how much room is needed? I'm seeing different things in regards to application.
@@tianamarie989 it depends on what unit your putting up … whatever you choose just ask for the manufacturers sizes amd take it from there? 👌🏾
One of the problems people have mentioned is the condensate drainage. It can easily get clogged.
You have not talked about that..yet..halfway through. Particularly for the wall unit. Does the condensate end up in the crawlspace?
Bon travail, J'aime beaucoup tes explications !
thanks, Craig awesome video.
Glad you enjoyed it
How are mini splits as primary heat? My temperatures are usually 10-30f. occasionally we drop into the 0 and below 😅
Great video love to See more videos on how to properly troubleshoot minisplits and also properly charge them.....I hear u don't use the superheat and subcooling method 🤔
Critically charged only.
Keep in mind if you're adding additional zones, most places tell you that you can, as long as what is currently running is more than 50% of the refrigerant.
thank you for the video, you are the best
You are the best
Wonder how far away technology is that allows you to run a pex style tube for these instead of copper? That would speed things up. I feel it's coming eventually. Great video.
There is a product called yoga pipe but it's rated for cooling only applications. Trust me soft copper is as about as easy as it gets already, especially in these sizes
Thanks Craig !
You're welcome!
Out of all the indoor units, which is best for maintenance? I would rather have 1 slim duct per room mounted in my attic but concerned it is worse for general maintenance. The ceiling cassette however appears to be the worst one when it comes to thorough cleaning/maintenance. Thanks for the great video
I installed the same ducted Mini-Split system as part of a McCool set-up. The controller on the side has the IR receiver making it almost impossible to use a better thermostat given that the only thermostat upgrades offered are basically an IR remote that must have line of site to the receiver, which of course is in the attic. Not a good set-up especially when the stock thermostat that comes with the unit is not good. Videos of the system on our channel.
For a mini split system the cable connecting indoor unit and out door unit, only one cable is for the communication, one for groun and the rest two is for the 220V AC.
Very nice information ,
👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Many many thanks
@@acservicetechchannel Your Welcome Sir 👍
If I currently have central air, could I take out the Air Handler and replace it with 5 slim duct units running to my existing ducts?? Also, If I were to install these in my attic would that cause issues due to the high levels of Humidity in South Florida?
Thanks for the video. Very informative.
Very nice video
Most mini-splits I install are Gree brand. However, I always like to hear other's opinions as to why they prefer the brands they install most often. As such, you appear to prefer C&H over other brands (just going by the fact that your mini split videos are all based on C&H). Why do you prefer that particular brand?? What are the pluses and minuses of C&H over others?? And how good is the post-install support channels from C&H and/or their distributors??........Thanks
Probably they sponsor him..I hear alot of these units are made by midea and rebranded.
Does your book also talks about trouble shooting electrical components at the condenser and furnace?
Can you make a video on complete AC servicing
Can you make a video on how to troubleshoot an inverter AC where the outdoor PCB isn't supplying voltage to the indoor unit but has high voltage at the input terminals
Hi, thanks for sharing all your knowledge and I have a question, if I install a 5 zone minisplit system and at the time of the installation I only install 1 indoor unit and another a few weeks later, what would be the correct procedure, each system is independent from one to another? Meaning that I just install and connecting the piping, leak test and vacuum the system and release the refrigerant to the new indoor unit without evacuating the entire system, or should I install all 5 zones at once thanks in advance.
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
great information
Glad you liked it
Very thorough. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Love the video I have a question I see a lot of mini split heat pumps for sale on eBay just the outside unit my question is do you have to use the same company air handler can I go with a different company as long as the beat to use are the same or do I have to go with the same company as the heat pump ?
thank you teacher
You are welcome
Nice Craig
Great overview!
Excelente
Thanks so much!
Hurrah for 21st century content
Since they have a pump, can they (slim duct and cassette) be mounted vertically?
can a cassette be placed between floor joists? If so does it have to be suspended from above?
I am about to do just that.
@@daveyboy8907 were you successful?
Thanks nice video
So nice of you
Hello, I got by chance (as part of a payment) 2 brand new units, each one has the Indoor Unit wall mounted type. As you said this type of indoor unit is designed to be mounted on the top of the wall, near the ceiling. Actually, I thinking to install this unit in a place where only heating is required. No cooling is needed at all. In such a case, may I install the split in the wall near the floor instead of near the ceiling? is it more efficient near the floor than near the ceiling if it is only used for heating purposes? the Flaps would be about 1 foot from the floor. In such a case, I think air circulation and convection would be ok. Can you please give me your thought about it?
where can i find the hangers you showed for the concealed ducted type indoor unit
thanks for all the info
Any time!
Or what book do you recommend to trouble shoot electrical components, compressors, furnace etc?
A you mount the concealed duct air handler vertically (inside a wall)?
Nice video thanks
is it possible to mount indoor wall unit to ceiling (like ceiling was a wall)?
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) th-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
on the single 1800btu does it have a wall mounted thermostat availability
I have a brand new home I am planning to build from BBC scratch 4,600 Sq feet I really would like to go full mini split , it has walk in closets and 5 bed 6 bath , can a mini system be used to cool and heat the entire house ?
can I install a ceiling mount horizontally in a wall? given their is space for it inside the wall
When you going to make mini split servicing videos there’s not many on yt and most in different languages
The mini split takeover!🤣
Nice video!
🥃🥃🍺🍺🍺🍺🍇🏌
Stay safe.
Retired(werk'n) keyboard super tech.
Wear your safety glasses.
It’s about time!
Can the cassette mount on a wall instead of the ceiling
It would be helpful if you showed a picture of each one installed. Otherwise I like your video.
A good point to emphasize here, is that ducted units only can push through very small lengths of duct. IOW, they are low static applications vs a typical air handler that can handle high static.
They have med static units they cost more but I only put them in
Med and some have high static. If you size your duct correctly you can get some decent straight length of duct in. Avoid turns. Iv installed a unit with .04 inwc with a 40 foot reducing truck duct and successfully
The ones that are higher static typically are higher btu though, but good to know.
ALRIGHT! I been waiting on you Craig to explain these. Gonna get one today . Thanks
Hope you like it!
I have a brand new home I am planning to build from scratch 4,600 Sq feet I really would like to go full mini split , it has walk in closets and 5 bed 6 bath a huge open concept area , can a mini system be used to cool and heat the entire house and how would I design such a system
Will these communicate with the outside unit that is a different brand I have akul outside but I can't find an inside
Thamks
Gooday i have a split ac unit which is leaking gas in the indoor unit which i cant find can i replace the indoor unit with a different make indoor unit
Should not we braze the line set instead of using flare fittings?
The problem is that the outdoor unit does not lend itself to brazing directly as the fittings are only flare. Sure you could do that with the indoor unit, but then you need purge gas during brazing, and as these units will not last 25 years, service will need to cut the lines to swap in a new unit.
Is there a general rule for how far down from ceiling to hang the indoor unit?
Most manufacturers let you go tight anywhere from 6 to 9 inches but use your best judgment on the room. If the room is long is can help to be mount higher. Of course mounting it in a convenient location when you come back to service is a great idea
The install manual has those dimensions of how close to the ceiling it can be. In general you want that unit up high to pull in warm air off the ceiling, as the vane is typically set to blow slightly downward into the room.
Which is easiest to hide in a room and easier to maintain with the least amount of problems
Wall type
On the wall mounted unit, can the liquid and gas line go up into the ceiling/attic and the condensate line go out through the wall? The ourside uint will be at the back of the house and there is only one wall that will be in the back. I would like to run the refrigerant lines up into the attic space then out to the back of the house.
Yes, liquid and gas lines can run any direction. You just don't want to loop them, or have a lot of big dips. Condensate line just needs to run downhill from the unit in any direction.
@@da324 horizontal loops are fine. As long as the piping is correctly sized, the velocity of the refrigerant will carry the oil through a small single loop without any problems.
Which company generally has the highest SEER rated multi zone product?
Mitsubishi and Fujitsu
They are all pretty comparable. The more zones the lower the SEER.
How much would this cost for 5 units?
Can you not use chapters, cant skip back and forth to go over parts again
On my desktop PC, I can put the mouse pointer anywhere on the play indicator bar. I see the chapters, and can start anywhere I want. I don't understand is this a smart phone issue?
@@f.hababorbitz must be a mobie/UK thing. Its bloody annoying though
On a inside wall mount unit what (F1) mean
How about the costs of the repair parts?
Not as bad as you would think. Senville lists their parts and they are reasonable.
Not bad I had to get a new outdoor board for a Mitsubishi unit out of Warrenty it was less the $200. With that being said you usally get anywhere from 7-10 years on parts for these depending on manufacturers
Hi, thank you for the video.
Is it ok if a new split ac got installed without doing a vacuum ?
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You really want to pull a vacuum as any air left in the system is non condensable, and it will be pumped through the compressor and take up some of the usable volume of the condenser. It will stay there as the condensed refrigerant will keep it from circulating. This leads to higher head pressures, and with R410a, they are already too damn high. If you can't get a cheap vacuum pump (harbor freight has a two stage), rent one (try your local auto parts store, some have these for rent, basically you put a deposit down for the value of the pump and when returned you get that back), you could purge the air from the lines. Understand if the copper line was open to the air for too long, water vapor will be left in the system, and it does bad things with the oil in the system. So a quality install, requires evacuating the system.
@@f.hababorbitz thank you for your reply 🙏.
The technician who installed my ac didn't do a vacuum, i think he just pushed the valve thingy to release the air .
I'll get an other technician to do a vacuum if it's possible now.
@@marwansalim6662 The problem is the system charge would have to be removed, and as that is contaminated, it will be thrown out. If that tech did a good enough job of purging and the line set he used were kept capped and clean, I would not worry about it. Every time service hoses are used, they are purged, not evacuated, so it is an OK practice. The indoor unit came pressurized with nitrogen and then capped, so it was clean and free of water vapor. If his install was quick, and not during a rain, then all should be well.
To elaborate, with gauge hoses, they are short, and predictable to air removal with purge. But the line set is long with the added evaporator tubing, so how well purge works is a function of total flow volume to remove all the air.
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Capillary tube where is it locate on the unit
All multi zone units use EEVs on each line set at the outdoor unit.
No cap tubes. Eev are mounted in the outdoor section. Vrv/vrf they are on the FCUs
For a single zone unit, cap tube is located at the condensing unit, at least in the 3 brands I've installed, Turbo Air, Diakin, Mitsubishi. Some brands use the EEV for single zone as well.
@@f.hababorbitz those would of been non inverter type ductless. Not even sure they make them anymore, at least not in my market. If the unit is an inverter, it needs to have a EEV, it's the only way it can work under the large variety of loads
@@stevengalipault2395 I stand corrected. I based this on looking at the diagram in the service manual. But they combined the inverter and noninverter designs. And the inverter design would not work correct with a cap tube restriction device.
You can still get the non inverter designs, as they are SEER 13 or less and cheaper then the inverter products.
I am wanting to know the reliability of these as getting electronic assemblies either are non procurable, or only sold to dealers on record. The failure I'm concerned with is the inverter board, as they don't use any conformal insulation coatings on these circuit cards, and I've seen web blogs from southern location and tropics that complain about bugs or small lizards crawling in, and caused high voltage arcing over to the low voltage circuitry on the circuit boards. I was expecting to see that in the Diakin, but they left the board exposed to the internal elements. I live where the heat pump would be usable for a short period of time (gets too damn cold very fast) and I worry about the defrost cycle producing vapor off the coil, and recondensing on the outdoor circuit assembly. I've not found any information on long term reliability of any brand. I don't know how good Midea is as they seem to be the major supplier of all these, included name brand USA manufacture products.
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And all of these literally ALL of these are made by Midea and rebadged so seek out the best service and warranty rather than the brand because you think A is better than B.
ac mechanic job
this way kind of sucks. Show the branch box.
Multi zones suck especially the four zones one come under size every time.
What do you mean?
why are you using COOPER & HUNTER????? Everyone knows Mitsibushi, Daikin & Fujitsu are the best brands!
Excelente