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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
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When I would build engines at home I would use this technique, but differently. I would get a glass table (coffee table) glue the sandpaper to the table, then rest the head on top of the table, and move the head back and forth. That way Id use the weight of the head to create enough pressure to sand it flat. I did this for years with no problems ever. I recommend it for people who can't afford to send to machine shops.
I tried this and it messed up my head. The ends wore more than the middle. ended up with wrecked cam journals.
@@JoseOrtiz-pf4ve "The ends wore more than the middle". How? badly warped head or glass not flat?
Had my head machined last week, cost $110. Now have to reassemble the engine.
what grit sand paper did you start with and end with? did you use any kind of lubrication??
@@joshuetortega3572 I used 400, but if that's too aggressive, can easily go higher. That's the beauty of using a glass and sandpaper, you can just peel it off and glue different grit any time
A piece of thick glass like from a table, spray adhesive, and 6 sheets of 150 grit in a figure 8 pattern. Spray paint it and do it for a few rotations to see how bad it is. And then keep going till there is no more paint or gasket stains. Good to go. I do it all the time and never had one fail.
Yeah, I think if you're going to do this at home, you want to have the sandpaper stationary, and be moving the head around with your hands.... not the way he did it, with the head stationary and moving the sandpaper around.
Push the head in one direction, stop, rotate to a different angle and do another push. Keep rotating and do a single push at each angle.
This guy did everything wrong, and still got his engine to run... but that doesn't mean that you shouldn't bother doing it right.
I suspect that spray primer would work okay, and dry quickly.
Absolutely NEGATIVE on the “Spray Paint”. Spray paint will fractionalize and end up in the motor in places you don’t want paint flakes and spray. The proper way is a Prussian blue marker, or as a cheap replacement, get a Fat-tipped Sharpie and color it all in. Do it between the different grits of paper to continue to ensure you have a flat surface between cuts. Not necessary when you get into the higher “polishing” grits, just the first few heavy cuts.
Most people would have enough common sense not to spray or on so thick that it would be flaking off. And most people would have enough common sense to clean it when they where done too. I'm surprised you didn't tell them not to use sandpaper because all the abrasives would wear out the engine. But thanks for putting me straight Mr. Monday Morning Quarterback. 10 months too late. By the way have you ever heard of Acetone? Everyone has spray paint. Not everyone has some Prussian blue hanging around.
@@googlesucks3219 Bud, in the last few years I’ve seen people put TRASH BAGS over their head to go grocery shopping, play YT games of “Give dirty looks to gangsters”, and believe in “Free Energy” generators. Not to mention, SPRAY PAINT the deck surface of an engine. So yeah, common sense ain’t so common. And sandpaper and metal shavings lack one serious thing that spray paint has….. surface tension and adhesion. You can blow compressed air or carb cleaner into the components to rid it of particulates, but spray paint melts under chemicals and clings to surfaces. So if I’m the Monday morning quarterback, you’re the dude sitting on the bench waiting all season to play. Now go get your helmet and drool cup son, mommy’s on her way to come pick you up. 👍🏻
@@hxhdfjifzirstc894 true
Additionally you could have used a straight edge on the surfaces and check clearances with a feeler gauge for an acceptable clearance. But it loooks good tho.
True, very cheap, mine passed
Omg, my man just flushed all the sand and debris inside the engine while sanding it.
hey there! it's been 9 months since this video has been uploaded. any update on how it held up? very impressed how you did this all by yourself at home.
First time I saw a cylinder head job that doesn't involve a straight edge
I had darton dry T sleeves put in my k24 turbo.
They all dropped.003 soon after.
I took a large smooth shower tile and spray glued 600 grit and started sanding.
Took 6hrs but ended up great,6 months later and 25psi its still holding fine.
I do use head studs and cometic mls x series head gasket that has a folded layer around combustion chamber.
I wouldn't trust that thin pc of steel being true flat and it will warp and deflect while you sand.
A bucket with dish soap and water
Doing 5 or 10 passes and rinse off your sanding block in the bucket to keep the paper from gumming up.
Wd40 didn't help that
I used a a piece of countertop granite and it's work really great. Have a straight edge with you.
Yes you can but you need glass surface , spray glue and large long pieces of sand paper. Easy peasy back and forth , side to side. Glass is perfectly smooth because when it’s poured into a mold it spreads evenly.
Japanese shops have used those knife sharpening stones the long flat 1s nd some type lube
Gives me hope, to fix my busted head gasket. Thanks for sharing this knowledge wit the world.
hand lapping is difficult and takes a while to get used to, id put a weight on the thing you are using to sand and push it.
That’s a Honda Leroy
you should use glass instead of metal for a backing.
Yep for the head you really want to turn the head upside down on a piece of glass, use spray adhesive on the sandpaper instead of Elmer's glue, and stuff the cylinders with rags before doing the block.
When you sand like that the center gets the most sanded and not the ends
Not if it's flat
Wow this was a scary video to watch lol. Sure it looks good but your eye isn't a straight edge and your nails are not feeler gauges haha. This is how i do it diy in my garage, coming from a diesel mechanic. 3M spray adhesive, your various grits of sand paper, water or wd40 and a piece of engineered board or a nice flat stone slab/countertop. Glue the sand paper to your engineered board or stone slab and set the head on it and move the head back and forth, checking with a straight edge until perfection.
Thanks that what I'll do
I understand this will “work” to varying degree; It’s smooth and looks nice, but it’s not flat. There is probably a minimum of .005” deviation between the edges and the innermost sections of larger surfaces. By it’s very nature this process will produce a crown of each large section of surface area on the head. Mounting this on a mill with a dial indicator will reveal this. The reflection of the ceiling lamps on the polished surface reveals this a little.
This process could result in the cam journal warping some when the head is torqued down to the block.
did this with my b16 swap and no problems at all works great takes a good amount of time tho
you should do a 30 sec short with a timelapse of it, lookscool
hey what exact grid of sandppaper should it use for an aluminium head. With which grid do i start and how fine should i go?
I would be using glass, not a metal sheet.
Nothing new. Did something similar 20 yrs ago on a vw scirroco engine. Worked fine.
do you retorque arp headstuds?
The studs themselves can be put into the block, hand-tight but most people put a few lbs on them with an Allen-wrench .
Sheet metal is Bending under loads A POOR choice of sanding block.
Wouldn't a new honing stone be superior
Great vid… Nice❤
One pull and gasket failed
Thanks for the video bro and comments I have a head with a little bad spot I'm definitely going to do this
Can you please answer your dms
You have effectively sanded the middle of the head TWICE for each of the edges due to your metal not being large enough to cover the head entirely. Your arms do not have the precision a mill/CNC does. You need a piece of material bigger than the head so nothing ever leaves the cutting edge of the sandpaper.
Easier to use the weight of the head on a belt of sand paper. You should 1st check the levels of the block and head. This will show the gap and then check afterwards again. A warped head or block will look perfect if you sand it but it can still be warped which means it won’t seal correctly.
Good ass informative 👌 👏 👍!!! I'm stationed In South Korea and got a k24 bottom and a k20 head sitting on my floor and I'm trying to do things on my own. I'm gonna do this!
Do it the opposite way of how he showed... you want you sandpaper glued to a flat glass surface and attached to a table or counter top, and then slide the head around on top of it... You don't want to be sliding the sandpaper around (you'll get low spots).
Just do a single stroke in one direction, and constantly be changing the direction you push in. Keep rotating the head to random directions.
Definitely use a Sharpie, Dykem, spray primer, or some kind of thing to color the head, so that you can see where the low spots are and keep going until the head is more flat.
Also, just take the head to a machine shop and have it done right... the only reason to do this is if you're broke, drive a beater with a blown head gasket, and have to do this as cheaply as possible so that you can drive to work. It's far better to simply pay a little bit of money and have a critical part machined properly, and not have to worry about your head gasket blowing in the future.
I mean, it's only going to cost like $200 to have a machine shop do it properly. Why fuck around and roll the dice, unless you're dead broke?
I been meaning to do this with my crx I need to do my block. Best thing to do this with is A heavy piece of granite.
Yeah, exactly how I did it on ym single cam years ago.
Water in your cylinders happens when you lift the head off the block. It's not indicative of the actual failure. An gas leak into the cooling or vice versa can actually go through a very small gap. It's more easier to diagnose that if you find any evidence of drainage on your exhaust ports or general fouling on the head surface.
Also for the sanding part, you should use 100 grit, going above that will take much longer to remove enough material. Additionally most tutorials do this process on top of a piece of glass or a saw table because having one surface as big as the cylinder head means you are surfacing the entire head evenly. Using a small piece of sheet metal or a sanding block could potentially allow the sand paper to follow any curvature of a warped head and basically make the repair a big waste of time.
When a shop does this, they use a CNC basically that keeps the shaver at the same height above an accurately leveled head so that the resurfaced head is true to the final height of the surfacing bit.
I might be doing this and your video provides hope. I thought these head bolts were just funny looking torx bolts but apparently they are XZN star bolts so I have to wait on some XZN sockets to get here.
It works better if you tape the Sandpaper to your table and run the head over top of it!
Paint light blue
Good work bro💪🏾
The machine shop leaves crooked swirls, & the wrong surface roughness anyways, so this method removed the high& low machine marks & gave it a nice grippy finish for the gasket to not slide around. Lastly, it met the OEM's shop manual for the straight edge & feeler gauge test. :)
The gaskets designed to slide slightly
@@FunBitesTV yes, but not too much. - ASE book
@@Eduardo_Espinoza true