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How to Resurface a cylinder head at home with an Orbital sander???!!??!??!?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ต.ค. 2020
- First in the series of videos: How to Resurface a cylinder head at home. I show you how you can check a cylinder head for cracks and then resurface a cylinder head at home with an orbital sander and then finally check your work to ensure a perfect gasket sealing surface!!
I resurfaced a cylinder head on my 2004 Jeep Liberty Renegade 3.7L after noticing low coolant, it wasn't over heating however it did leak coolant into the #6 cylinder causing detonation and resulting in a melted trail through the cylinder head and into the water jacket causing the engine to hydro lock. Thankfully it didn't overheat or cause a warped head.
Upcoming videos will show you how I gasket/Port match the intake and exhaust manifold, Valve tricks so you can gain horse power, airflow and fuel economy!
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I’ve never done a head gasket, but it may be in my future. I’m really glad I stumbled upon your video. Thank you sir.
I like the way you think. I have been doing this on ATV heads for 5 years now with no issues. I had to see what you were going to so with the orbital. I'm gonna try that tonight. I have a head that needs some material taken off. Your way will be faster. Thanks for the tip.
Just be careful around any thin sections of aluminum they can round them over easily particularly between cylinders or ports. Thanks for the comments! :)
How did you make out with that head?
@@restosandrevivals4597 Great! No issues at all. It solved the problem.
@@TitaniummanGarage Awesome thanks for getting back to me on that!
So why couldn’t you do piston faces the same way or similar?and you’re right if people didn’t color outside the lines now and then we’d still be in the dark ages
Dude! Awesome! Thank you for the captions! Now I know what to use on the feeler gauge! Please keep making vids like this
I approve of this message however i disapprove your sanding table! I would have used a glass flat piece of glass as my sanding bench 🤷🏼♂️
Couldn't agree more! It's a beater though so it's ok! ha
I picked up a granite cutout from a 36" sink for $10 to be able to flat sand an aluminum intake and spacer. Got any idea what Ra reading (wet sanding grit) is best for use with thermal/phenolic intake gaskets? Thanks..
Good job, and I'm sure the machine shop boys will feel uncomfortable with the idea of sanding a head down flat, but ot works if you're dedicated and careful. It also means you're only removing the bare minimum of material by this method.
Nice, I’m with the mind your business and don’t worry about what I’m doing crowd. I like the way you think.
Awesome thanks lol
Thanks for the tips. I've always heard that you should take down the valve seats by the same amount, but I can't see how that's possible at home?
If you try this. You have to go sideways between them the cylinders. I learned that the hard way had to take a Mitsubishi apart twice.
Great video and tips. I am working on similar heads for my ford 4.0 SOHC. Lapping the new valves right now and holding onto the old valves to do some porting and polishing before fully reassembling things. Look forward to your upcoming video on the port and polish. This is my first go with SOHC heads, most of my experience is porting and polishing old V8 ford heads.
@@curtispaul9717 Thank you for the insight. I am a bit weary of doing aluminum heads and it makes sense about the cam. Finding more performance cams for the 4.0 sohc seems to be quite a challenge. Honestly the engine makes good power as it is with a few mods. The 03 ranger it is in is a hoot to drive. I have ported and matched iron heads when I built a 69 390 to replace the worn out 352 in my 66 f250. That one I did put a higher lift cam in and added ram air among other mods to increase performance. Lots of fun getting sideways in a 2 ton truck when you mash it and beating newer 5.0 mustangs off the line till they caught me around 85mph, the truck had a top speed of 103 downhill, hehe. Its a stump puller but was still fun. I also plan on doing head work on the 400 in my 77 tbird with a hotter cam. Will pull the motor when I pull the front clip and fender to replace the parts from being t-boned, sigh.
4:38 Thank You. It's not been easy finding my answer.
I respect your dedication and attention to detail. However, as a shop owner and professional mechanic who has to warranty his work, the risk is not worth the reward. A machine shop can correct and true those heads for you for very cheap, and can provide you with precise Ra measurements which is the most impactful in the success of the repair.
Absolutely I was a mechanic years ago and I am currently a service tech for heavy equipment I also went to Mohawk College for North American V8 engine building. I use a local shop for all of my machine work when I build engines however when it comes to my Daily drivers I like to do things on the cheap.
@@restosandrevivals4597
Just because you’ve been a mechanic for some years doesn’t mean you’ve been doing it the right way.
I’ve been the mechanic that knew better then the machine shop and also the machinist that had to clean up the mess of mechanics that thought they knew better then the machine shop.
Take one of your orbital sanded heads down to the machine shop and ask to watch them mill it. Tell me how you feel about your method after they do a pass or two on the head, you will see all of the damage and imperfections on the surface easily while it is being done the correct way. You can’t see the edges and the combustion chambers that get beveled nor the low spots near the water ports using your method.
I’m not knocking what your doing but trying to educate you and others of the risks of wasting your time and money by taking shortcuts.
@@South_0f_Heaven_ After the DA, he's basically lapping it with his bench. More variation and rotation of the head would provide a better surface, but I have no doubt that it's flat enough after this treatment. Doesn't mean it's perfectly true, but it's definitely flat enough.
@@restosandrevivals4597😮
i have never seen a mechanic warranty this kind of work....
I've done this using a granite flat for small engines. Didn't use an orbital sander though.
If you do use the orbital just be really careful around the valves because the material between them is so small the sander will take it down a lot faster than other areas.
That's an ok technique. I guess. I prefer to use a cinder block. I just knock off the loose gravel and go to town. Works great. I'll throw some crisco on there every once in a while to keep it lubed. Head gasket seals fine. Just like yours will !! Keep on sanding.
Yeah I have an old Farmall Super A with a C123 engine. Need to fix a Crack on top surface, a new block cost $400 +$250 shipping. So it's not like I can make it broker. Worth a shot, gonna try lock n stitch cold sewing for Crack. If the set isn't to expensive.
Exactly! I'm glad you get the point. Some people are oblivious to the thought of not being able to make it broker!! haha Use a thick piece of glass or a table saw to get it as flat as possible!
@@restosandrevivals4597 work with what you got.
@@curtispaul9717 thanks for the advice
Thanks for the video. I might have to do something similar to my project engine. Will check the suface flat and see where Im at in gap´s
Hey not a problem! The spray paint method really helps show your low spots give it a shot and let me know how it works for you.
@@restosandrevivals4597 thanks, yeah I will I doing valves and valve seats now. Might restorate the lifters also before I start to measure everything up and blueprint the engine. Need to buy some tools before my blueprint process starts. Hopefully the head and block are decent flat and dont need to be resurfaced to much
A lot of people say to stick a piece of hose on the end of the valve stem and chuck it up in a drill to lap the valves in. If you do this be extremely careful, you can very quickly cut grooves into the valve seat. There are lots of videos showing how to do it, but I’ve yet to see someone that tells the truth about what can and usually does happen.
@@restosandrevivals4597 Thanks, than I might do it by hand instead. Less chanse of failure and more control even if it takes more time
This is hilarious but it really looks like it works!!!
Sure does! Just have to be really careful to not round the edges out or remove too much material between the cylinders as it’s thinner. People have been decking their own heads for decades. The key to it is to use a Piece of glass or even a table saw top for the sandpaper to ensure it’s perfectly flat!
The Jeep is still running strong since I did it!
@@restosandrevivals4597 yeah. You can get granite tile at home depot. But even then youll have to do it in a figure 8 and it can still depend on the pressure you put on it.
So correct Sir after watching your great video I have some confidence in doing it myself but I don't have power or air tools so I will just hafto use a lot of elbow grease thank you
Sorry, some how I missed your comment!
How did you make out?
@@restosandrevivals4597 threw the cylinder head in the rubbish hand in pocket syndrome
@@russelblackwell6041 That’s too bad did you try and fix it?
That is some Burt Monroe shit, awesome video. This is what a poor person like me has to do
A few months ago I did this to a mazda 2.2 efi turbo head. Wasn't over heated but the engine was out and getting a tidy up to put into another car so I thought why not do the head gasket while it was out. Used a thick glass table and sandpaper and it worked fine. No probs at this stage.
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Outstanding video A+++++++++++++
Thank you!
Try to get flat as possible, shop around for a thick head gasket, and use copper spray.
What paint did you spray with on block
Some very positive advice and great video
Thank you!
If you try this just be careful of the thin material between cylinders! It wears down quicker than anywhere else so running the sander over it less is a good idea
Positive advice ? 😂😂😂
Awesome video man
Where is the videos for the basic home porting and such?did not see them at all?And yeah screw the nay sayers I litterly jb welded a small crack on head under valve cover on a car I got for $300 people called me dumb and said would never work..2 years later..like new no leaks! Keep it up love the back yard/garage how go videos as I have no money for professional work and love doing it myself anyhow
I’ve got all the footage, just need to upgrade my computer to get the editing done.
first time watcher, very intelligent and elaborate explanations thank you, that outro caught me off guard lol
I did something similar to this for my 2014 SRT8 392 hemi (6.4L) cylinder head but now have a huge oil leak. I googled, and read that it has a Fire Ring or Fire Deck built into the cylinder head -- I used a straight edge file and it took off a little bit more around the cylinder bore than the rest of the head, I read filing down this Fire Ring can actually compromise and scrap the head. Do you know anything about these Fire Rings?
as long as you don't want it flat
If you're a professional and owner of a machine shop of course you wouldn't do it this way, no need to. But if you are a do-it-yourselfer like me, GO FOR IT! I have been working on my own
cars for over 50 years and have had great success innovating. Just use common sense.
Exactly! You cant learn if you don't try!
Nice for low budget guys like me...😂
What finishing grit sand paper did you use?
Yeah a head skim is very cheap if the heads actually known to have overheated id get it skimmed but if youre just building a motor up then id use emery paper over the whole head face but not a machine
Is the head still assembled? Is it possible to surface the head without taking that all apart?
It depends on the head, some valves sit below the deck surface. Most heads can but it’s risky. You don’t want all that filth making it’s way into your oil when you bolt it back down. It has to be perfectly clean inside and out.
So much hate 🤣🤣🤣. Good on you for not caring about the hay sayers man. Not doing this, it just came up in my feed 💪
If I lifted my head, I'd probably deck it by doing this..... because race car.
Instead of using your workbench .buy a rem piece of granite . would get flatter surface for sure
Definitely a good idea! The pain of glass also works well
What was the outcome
I’d prefer a straight line sander if we are talking about surfacing a head with a sander..
Is there like a dye or paint you can use so when you sand, you see the low spots
Dykem would probably work
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How did you deck the block?
You shouldn’t need too.
It’s pretty rare for a block surface to warp to the point it needs to be machined
@@restosandrevivals4597 Thanks for the quick response, and info.
did you use a mls headgasket on this head?
Yes I did, so far it’s working out great! 180 psi on all cylinders and it’s been running strong since I uploaded the video! 💪
Imagine if Mercedes did this to your cyclinder head. 😂
Thousandth isn't that much more to say.
$40 dollars in DA paper or $40 at the machine shop .But yes it can be done.
It’s $60-$80 per head at the machine shop and the paper is only $10 a roll
There's not enough surface on the sander to keep the head flat not a good idea this guy doesn't know what he's talking about
Great video!
Thanks :)
So much wrong. You may think it will work however you have no way to tell how much is being removed. Sure the straight edge shows its flat but if too much is removed from 1 end or 1 side you create other issues. There is a reason we use precise instruments to make sure the head is perfectly square and level to the milling head. But what does valve clearance and combustion chamber size matter
It’s working great! Done it many times and so have many other people. I explained that you have to be careful to make sure it’s as flat as possible. I went to college for engine building I know the potential issues. That being said, as a mechanic I’ve had heads fresh from the machine shop leak.
I have my own machine shop and one upon a time I had a little spot on a head that was just a little ugly and I had my electric orbital sander by me, what the hell I thought. Cleaned it up and the areas by the coolant ports were about .004 to .005 low, on a head that was just perfectly flat, couldn't believe how much a piece of 240 grit knocked off in a heart beat.
For God's sake please don't dance at the end of your video again. lol
Hey what ever gets the comments! Good or bad lol 😂
What about filling the small Crack with a dab of weld? Then sanding that down.
"Dab of weld" thats cast aluminum.
Youre going to make the head unusable. Do not try this guys advice either
@@krotchlickmeugh627 cast aluminium heads are weldable, everybody knows this, why don't you ?
@@show-me-the-details He "knows" this head is ruined, even though the thing is running up and down the road lol
Amico, una dima di precisione dovrebbe essere impiegata. Il righello in acciaio che usi non è rettificato e non è adatto per questo impiego
I've been down your path I would not recommend it. If it's warped the heat treatment is gone. Even if you get it to be flat-ish its not going to hold back the same cyclinder pressure(power)
But going down this path will indeed result in wisdom. Failure is a great teacher its why we all learn how to fix a car
I’ve done it many times my friend you get good at it after a while. It’s been eight months and I’m still daily driving it a half an hour to and from work not to mention the odd beat down on the back roads lol
That's not how it works.
There is no heat treatment in cast aluminium
I like to make stuff up too. Man does it sound official AF
Your just showing off with your flat work surface lol.
Actually I realized after that the two low spots highlighted by the black paint weren’t caused by the orbital sander they were caused by a slight dip in my workbench lol
@@restosandrevivals4597 i have seen people use panes of glass for this procedure, I guess they have to be manufactured perfectly flat.
I could’ve saved myself 800 dollars. danget
If that's a 3.7 dodge you just back it outside and throw 5 gallon of gas and a match in it
Lol some days that seems like a plan.
Never really had an issue with these engines, as long as you keep up on regular oil changes they are fine.
@@restosandrevivals4597 yes true. my son has a liberty 3.7l with 180,000 on it . he makes sure the oil is changed and the coolant is full. And most important, never ever let it overheat!
Mask ? Used to resurface the arc of brake shoes back in the late 60,s and early 70,s to match the arc radius of brake drums . Going to leave it at that !
It never hurts but brake pad/shoe dust is way nastier stuff than aluminum. Especially back then. Asbestos.
@@weeral1 well they wasn't on the asbestos back then , would go home blow my nose it was not pretty , but I was like 14 then when I started I think they was just trying to keep me busy and out of trouble , unlike today I would guess a 14 yr old could really get in a lot of it ?
Two issues with this video. Firstly your straight edge is NOT a straight edge. Secondly I can hear the stainless on your bench top popping back and forth which tells me you flat surface is NOT a flat surface. Yes it may hold for a couple of weeks but for the cost of $100 at a machine shop, this is not worth the risk.........and how much of your time have you invested.......and will invest when the thing springs a leak again? Probably a safer bet for a N/A street car if you actually have a flat surface and straight edge but for a turbo with 20PSI.......no way.
For the most part I would Somewhat agree with you! The part you failed to understand is the paint, it doesn’t lie if you don’t have a perfectly flat surface it will tell all.The stainless steel top is glued securely to 2” thick MDF and also wrapped around the sides so it doesn’t pop or move But I agree the straight edge should be a proper straight edge longer and thicker would be better but the point of this video is to use what you have on hand. Oh and the Jeep has been running strong for over a year pulling loaded car trailers and driving a half hour to work and then home again every day since.
Using die penetrant would be far better than paint but again it’s about using what you have and doing it as close to free as possible. Until you’ve tried this yourself you’re really just guessing based on your opinion and not fact. Many people have done this it’s an old hot rod trick.
If you go through all the work to remove a cylinder head. I HIGHLY recommend having a machine shop level it.
It is highly unlikely you will get the same results as a machine shop. You will be doing this same job when you're new head gasket blows.
Actually this is fairly common practice among gearheads. I’ve had great success with it over the years and I’ve even Decked engine blocks using the same method. The spots of spray paint are practically fool proof and getting the surface level and even. Although I will admit using a flat piece of glass Or a cast-iron surface like a tablesaw is a far better way to go. Have you actually tried this and had it fail or is this just an opinion?
@@restosandrevivals4597 These are the naysayers you referred to, right? I wish they'd watch the video and realise no-one gives two shits about their opinion. Keep doing what you do, man.
@@PJBonoVox Yeah everyone’s got an opinion but the fact of the matter is as long as you’ve got a perfectly flat surface and you take your time it works! Thanks for the comment!
@@restosandrevivals4597 Right? A flat surface with
I disliked it for one thing, wrecked the whole video with the loud annoying music at the end! Why? just ŕrrrrr
For my mother in law ;) hahahaha
why
Oh man, you are totally wrong. You never can done this properly in this way. This could be done ONLY ba machining.
I hate to break it to you but this is common practice among hotrodders. The jeeps still running strong and it’s been well over a year now. Also the last 4g63 turbo engine I did is still pushing 20lbs of boost and the Vtech civic has been going strong for the last 12 years.
Where you getting 50 dollar heads at
Pin n save. The price went up a bit they’re $53 now
picnsave.ca/used-auto-parts-pricing/