Dustin keep it up knowledge is power and because you do what you do i am sure you have saved some young electricians life because you teach us all and even though i am not doing much electrical work i enjoy watching you and learning each and everyday.
Dude you convinced me to become an Electrician! Keep the videos comming on both of your channels! The the panel and way you describe things simply but also going into great detail! Also love your in person step by step videos witring in a panel or transformer or disconnect or relay or whatever! Even simple things like receptacle single pole or 3 way switch
My boss was servicing the living room lighting for a customer. He was using the single pole as a disconnect. Well the customers small child came into the room and energized the circuit. He got hit really hard. Always use a lockout tagout and appropriate means of disconnect.
Kids likely thought he needed some light... which is why I like wago's... slide them on the live and the circuit is protected from accidental touch as you are working as a backup
many people don't know it, but the meter itself is actually a disconnect. there is usually a colored tag on it that you have to snip, but then just taking the metal bracket off from around it, and then pulling the meter itself out will literally disconnect your electrical to your house or building. P.S., that colored tag is often proprietary to the electric company,m and they will charge you to reconnect it if it is removed. just fyi.
I learned that it's never a good idea to piss Thor off, lol. Joking aside, I'm really glad we have the safety precautions in place that we do. From what I've been told by pros is if you're complaining about failed inspections you're not doing it right. I've had to do very minor, basic electrical wiring in my home, and it still terrifies me to mess with it. Right now I have an issue where the previous owner used what I can only assume is a cut 3-conductor extension cord to wire a light switch for the kitchen light because the romex wasn't long enough for him to do what he wanted to do. Basically he bought a fridge that was too big for the space, and had to relocate the light switch to the other side of the wall in the hallway. He used an orange-sheathed, stranded cable to tie into the new work, original gang box, then used the bottom knockout to pull the wire through, and into the old work box he installed for the switch. The entire thing is completely illegal, but I don't think it's necessarily unsafe. I want to get it fixed, but since we're going to be renovating that entire area we'll have it all done at once. I just think it's ironic how the most dangerous system in a house is often the one that gets the most shortcuts.
Ran into a similar issue when we were renovating my late grandmother's house. Grandpa after WWII was a welder for a time and it appeared that for several outlets he had used 4/0 welding wire to do some of the runs. Everything worked for 70+ years so I can't complain and at least we couldn't say that he was overloading the wire. The electrician we had come into to redo the wiring certainly had a good laugh when he saw it.
I love a switch that has a nice satisfying "clunk" when you use it. It just screams quality especially when there's a bit of resistance until that decisive on/off sound. For many years I always thought that houses, building, etc should always have a way for first responders like firefighters to easily shut off utilities like electric and gas to help minimize issues without having to wait for a utility company to come out and shut things off.
2023 Code Language: 225.41 Emergency Disconnects. For one-and two-family dwelling units, an emergency disconnecting means shall be installed. (A) General. (1) Location. The disconnecting means shall be installed in a readily accessible outdoor location on or within sight of the dwelling unit.
19:00 House fires caused by electricity are most often the result of loose connections creating arcs that create heat. And that heat gets transfered to household furnitures that are easily flammable. Or curtains and couchs touching baseboards.
I was just talking to a DIY guy who wired his addition in #12 Romex but didn't splice his pigtails - just wiring nutted them together. I told him exactly that.
With most panels, the nuetral lug branches off to two bars on the side for your connections/terminations. You put both ground and nuetrals on those. They're already bonded together, correct? So bonding the metal encasing of the panel to neutral doesn't affect the ground going back to nuetral. Whats the purpose of the green ground screw (in most cases) bonding the nuetral to the metal of the panel. In other words, without that green bonding screw, the ground still has a return path to neutral. Please explain somebody
OK, in electronics, things with induction, like a relay's coil, created thousands of volts for maybe a nanosecond, which destroys components around it. A diode or other type of snubber gives that current a place to run out into. What about giant motors or something like that? If you are forced to disconnect it in an emergency while it is running, unless the motor also has some kind of snubber, does that massive voltage cause a problem in the circuit?
Can you tell me where in the code says you can use a non-fuse disconnect means. I am telling you because most of the electrician use them for air conditioning installation non-fuse and I haven’t found that rule yet. Thanks
Hi all, is there anything that says line enters into the top lugs and load exits out the bottom lugs in these disconnects…. For me line comes in the bottom and exits out the top …. An absolute waste to wrap wire inside this box just to go in the top lugs …. Besides the fact that there is barely any extra room in the typical disconnect box. thanks
The window is not for thermal readings, and can not be used for that purpose. Thermal readings require special material to transfer heat, that window on the dvice above is not design for that purpose. The purpose of the window is for blade disconnect verifiaction.
Perfer to have a residential disconnect that has an external handle to turn load on.Not fun pushing in a flimsy plastic piece on a shorted load. Two very important things they don't teach while turning on safety switches: 1) should stand to side of switch 2) Take in & hold your breath when energizes equipment. Reason being if an ARC Flash was to occur you would not inhale super heated air and get third degree burns in your lungs.
hey Dustin! A little off topic , but was wondering if you were going to the Northeast electrical tradeshow at Polar Park in worcester later in september?
19:03 Even if its not electrical fire, fire company need too shut down power of the building for the fireman safety. Would you "hose down" a live electrical panel ??!?
❤Remember to put lock on handle when turned off, You might work late into night and next day, you arrive in morning and DAAAAAMMMNNN someone turned it on.. Always put a lock or tag saying don’t turn on. I been then. Frank Martinez Downey California
Good advice! I had a rig hand (oil rig) turn on a 347/600V breaker while I was working on some equipment. My face turned white and my heart skipped a beat when I realized I was unknowingly working it hot.
Besides a lock believe OSHA requires a hasp that has at least 6 holes so 5 other trades can install their LOTO on. We had to use big labels with our name & cell phone # on them.
The classic example is on a motor with a vfd, if the switch gear feeding the MCC has a fault the breaker will trip but if its a fault with a specific vfd the entire MCC may still be within its limits while that specific motor is well over its designed limitations.
I've seen more and more upgrades and new house installs in Massachusetts with meter box with disconnect switch bellow meter. Of course I see more meters in MA being put closer to roads away from the house , closer to the pole or underground.
Having the meter on a pole in the yard instead of on the house is (or was at one point) common in rural settings, particularly common on farms. Another situation is when a house is supplied by a feeder. Suppose you want to build a house in a very rural area, and want the house a couple hundred feet or more away from the road and tucked deep inside the woods, the power company will oftentimes want the meter at the road, because they are required provide 120/240 volts ± 5% at the meter, anything after that is the responsibility of the customer. A sneaky way for the POCO to get out of running heavier conductors or changing the taps on the transformers.
My thought... as a IT tech... I would prefer to have a disconnect on everywhere power comes in (grid, solar, battery), and then the circuit breakers... then any equipment to have a disconnect of some sort. Everything needs a disconnect... only because it is stepping 120V down to 48V... doesn't mean the techs should have to go track down the breaker; they need a disconnect at the distribution box for the status lights, since they are not near the breakers... Going around... any time I see a disconnect... I wanna turn them off, but... never have when they are not for me.
one thing to note about vehicle fires, many pf them have Magnesium parts in the dash, particularly the steering shaft housings and large mounts, but there may be magnesium components under the hood and in other locations. once magnesium starts on fire almost nothing will put it out, unless it can be shock cooled to get it below ignition temperature. usually when you see very bright nearly white light and sparks flying out, that's the magnesium burning. in my opinion it's equally as bad as lithium batteries burning, except there's far less of it and it will burn out sooner.
My area requires a means of disconnect directly after the meter on the outside of the building. Right now it's cheaper to buy a 200 amp feed through panel than any other 200 amp disconnect that's available locally.
Thre is no way to include everything in one video. Good video. NOTE: Only the handle disconnect has a spot for a lock (LOTO) in the OFF position. Never drill a hole to lock it on (yes I have seen it) Some disconnects have fuses. Copper pipe with the ends hammered down to fit does not count. Handle type disconnects can not be opened while energized - yes there is a bypass to allow running current and voltages measurements. Never trust nor use control logic switches. *ALWAYS* turn the power off by disconnecting it. Even for a "quick measurement. BTW the guy did find his thumb and the hospital reattached it with reduced use. It is an extra step but we all need to count to ten (not loose any fingers) Finally, when closing or re-energizing a circuit, pick which hand you want to loose, stand to the side and operate, close, the disconnect. Only had one bad accident so far but the cannon like thump to the chest and embarrassment later was bad. Everyone came running. Had to explain it multiple times. Yes we did a tool check, but one box end wrench was left inside the MCC.
In my first house, which had fuses, it was a little fuse that was not a fuse, it was a circuit breaker; there was a little button in the middle, and you could just press the button to reset the circuit breaker
those would be retrofit installed, into standard screw in plug type fuse boxes. probably done for insurance coverage purposes and maybe to appease home inspection for resale 😉
Like he mentioned, fire pumps are a great example. It’s a safety critical circuit that MUST remain on and should only ever be shut off by qualified personnel.
Kids used to turn off the main disconnect at a restaurant I worked at. We'd go turn it back on, they'd turn it back off. Ruined so much food, but the landlord wouldn't let us put a lock on the disconnect.
Question if I am allowed. Can you reverse the flow through outlets if you first disconnect the source and run a new wire (hot) from the curcuit braker? Not wishing to overload the unit, but I believe I have a short, or gault under my mobile home. Thanks.
Using an outlet to feed power into something... with a cable with 2 male ends... that is a suicide cord and are very, very dangerous. if you are wanting to feed power into the panel from a generator... use a interlock (for you to turn off the main breaker, lift a plate to prevent the main breaker from turning on, then turn on the generator breaker), and a generator connector plug, which sometimes have their own disconnect... as they have exposed prongs.
sorry i think i must of missed it did he say that its code that the disconnect must have bonded neutral and ground? i believe i saw a disconect with the option for it
the main ground point where you bond neutral and ground legs together is the first device... so it might be the service disconnect, which point you don't bond neutral and ground in the main panel.
Both hots, never switch or fuse a neutral. The only exception is inside an appliance or OEM device. And remember you don't bond the neutral and ground in a sub panel. Keep them separated electrically. Also DO NOT INSTALL THAT ADDITIONAL GROUND ROD! Multiple ground rods are a lightning hazard. The only exception is to bond the ground rods with an external #6 but totally unnecessary in your application..
about that truck fire. i understand you had to hutter the glass in the door. i also can justify the use of fire retardants on that flaming dash. but once you got the truck door open, why did not you get to the battery and disconnect the lead? IMHO, those who operated the extinguishers are the dummies or a group of poltroons.
My guess is the fire obstructed the hood release, you can shoot extinguishers in without gaining close access. This presumes a battery under the hood, more modern cars hide it under seats or other obscure locations without reasonable disconnect possibilities.
Im in WV doing a house and the inspector wants a main service disconnect outside on the load side of the meter and the line side of the panel. Ive just never done a 300+ amp service on a residential house with a disconnect outside. its weird and I need an SPD and AFCI / combos on everything that 120v its dumb. WV is weird for codes
EV fires cannot be extinguished because once the fire starts, the chemical reaction within the lithium batteries has to completely finish. So a million gallons of water wouldn't put it out. Watch the channel What's going on with shipping. They have some great videos about EV fires on car carrier ships. Great channel about shipping on the waterways (fresh and salt water)
The safety solution for standard fuse holder was to convert them to the fusetron fuses, so a penney or knockout couldn't be used. Maybe a subway token still could have worked? I don't think so since the current needed to go from the back of the holder to the front rim, by design. A flat disc couldn't work.
Where the hell was she stuffing the hose ends?? The connection point is outside the unit on the right and you don’t check the charge of a mini-split…you recover then weigh back in the charge. Stage the scene with a real HVACR tech, Sparky! 😂
That is something that always comes up in the back of my mind when I think about electric vehicles and when they ignite. I heard you are gonna need 8000 gallons of water / suppression to put out the fire. The whole novelty of electric vehicles is really neat but, we have not found the technology to properly and safely put out those fires. I'll just stick with my gas guzzling vehicle until the tech is there
@@bassman87 you are probably right about that. I thinking it could have been one of those inverters that are the f150..... Dustin we need more context 😂
Blue hair extensions when working on electric motors is an ideal situation. Going a little too far to be inclusive - if that was the point of that ridiculous actor.
Pop quiz for all of my HVAC friends - disconnects require working clearances, you can't install them behind the AC unit. That's it, that was the quiz.
Dustin keep it up knowledge is power and because you do what you do i am sure you have saved some young electricians life because you teach us all and even though i am not doing much electrical work i enjoy watching you and learning each and everyday.
Dude you convinced me to become an Electrician! Keep the videos comming on both of your channels! The the panel and way you describe things simply but also going into great detail!
Also love your in person step by step videos witring in a panel or transformer or disconnect or relay or whatever! Even simple things like receptacle single pole or 3 way switch
My boss was servicing the living room lighting for a customer. He was using the single pole as a disconnect. Well the customers small child came into the room and energized the circuit. He got hit really hard. Always use a lockout tagout and appropriate means of disconnect.
Kids likely thought he needed some light...
which is why I like wago's... slide them on the live and the circuit is protected from accidental touch as you are working as a backup
many people don't know it, but the meter itself is actually a disconnect. there is usually a colored tag on it that you have to snip, but then just taking the metal bracket off from around it, and then pulling the meter itself out will literally disconnect your electrical to your house or building.
P.S., that colored tag is often proprietary to the electric company,m and they will charge you to reconnect it if it is removed. just fyi.
Well done! We are big fans of Square D in Houston Texas!
I learned that it's never a good idea to piss Thor off, lol. Joking aside, I'm really glad we have the safety precautions in place that we do. From what I've been told by pros is if you're complaining about failed inspections you're not doing it right. I've had to do very minor, basic electrical wiring in my home, and it still terrifies me to mess with it. Right now I have an issue where the previous owner used what I can only assume is a cut 3-conductor extension cord to wire a light switch for the kitchen light because the romex wasn't long enough for him to do what he wanted to do.
Basically he bought a fridge that was too big for the space, and had to relocate the light switch to the other side of the wall in the hallway. He used an orange-sheathed, stranded cable to tie into the new work, original gang box, then used the bottom knockout to pull the wire through, and into the old work box he installed for the switch. The entire thing is completely illegal, but I don't think it's necessarily unsafe. I want to get it fixed, but since we're going to be renovating that entire area we'll have it all done at once. I just think it's ironic how the most dangerous system in a house is often the one that gets the most shortcuts.
Ran into a similar issue when we were renovating my late grandmother's house. Grandpa after WWII was a welder for a time and it appeared that for several outlets he had used 4/0 welding wire to do some of the runs. Everything worked for 70+ years so I can't complain and at least we couldn't say that he was overloading the wire. The electrician we had come into to redo the wiring certainly had a good laugh when he saw it.
Yes the SQUARE D Disconects‼️‼️‼️ Best CLUNK just the feeling of using those disconnects
Demo = A+, Demo music = 10/10. Kick ass, mang.
I love a switch that has a nice satisfying "clunk" when you use it. It just screams quality especially when there's a bit of resistance until that decisive on/off sound.
For many years I always thought that houses, building, etc should always have a way for first responders like firefighters to easily shut off utilities like electric and gas to help minimize issues without having to wait for a utility company to come out and shut things off.
2023 Code Language:
225.41 Emergency Disconnects. For one-and two-family dwelling units, an emergency disconnecting means shall be installed.
(A) General.
(1) Location. The disconnecting means shall be installed in a readily accessible outdoor location on or within sight of the dwelling unit.
Could you make a video on load calculation for a single family home please?
Yes
I’d like that too
19:00
House fires caused by electricity are most often the result of loose connections creating arcs that create heat. And that heat gets transfered to household furnitures that are easily flammable.
Or curtains and couchs touching baseboards.
I was just talking to a DIY guy who wired his addition in #12 Romex but didn't splice his pigtails - just wiring nutted them together. I told him exactly that.
Absolutely agree about “the clunk.” So satisfying. Square D should trademark that as an advertising slogan.
So different to the disconnects or “isolators” used in Europe.
yep haha
the us stuff is defn different to the stuff in Ireland other European countures haha
With most panels, the nuetral lug branches off to two bars on the side for your connections/terminations. You put both ground and nuetrals on those. They're already bonded together, correct? So bonding the metal encasing of the panel to neutral doesn't affect the ground going back to nuetral. Whats the purpose of the green ground screw (in most cases) bonding the nuetral to the metal of the panel. In other words, without that green bonding screw, the ground still has a return path to neutral. Please explain somebody
The quality and intricacy of your videos keep getting better. I guess moving up north has been good for you.
So if I turn the 20 amp fuse off does it count towards the 200 amp panel if it’s already switched off
Cheers from Canadastan! Man I miss electrical.
OK, in electronics, things with induction, like a relay's coil, created thousands of volts for maybe a nanosecond, which destroys components around it. A diode or other type of snubber gives that current a place to run out into.
What about giant motors or something like that? If you are forced to disconnect it in an emergency while it is running, unless the motor also has some kind of snubber, does that massive voltage cause a problem in the circuit?
Can you tell me where in the code says you can use a non-fuse disconnect means. I am telling you because most of the electrician use them for air conditioning installation non-fuse and I haven’t found that rule yet. Thanks
Hey Dustin, could you do a video on how you would use a NCVT?
Another banger 🔥 I was needing to learn about this
Hi all, is there anything that says line enters into the top lugs and load exits out the bottom lugs in these disconnects…. For me line comes in the bottom and exits out the top …. An absolute waste to wrap wire inside this box just to go in the top lugs …. Besides the fact that there is barely any extra room in the typical disconnect box. thanks
arent there electric rated fire extinguishers? from what i remember theres 3 classes 1. paper wood 2. electrical 3. grease
Yes
Just for your information, the window on the disconnect is there for thermal reading.
To check for hot spots.
And also to see the blades.
Oh to “inspect the thermal reading”? It’s an inspection window…
The window is not for thermal readings, and can not be used for that purpose. Thermal readings require special material to transfer heat, that window on the dvice above is not design for that purpose. The purpose of the window is for blade disconnect verifiaction.
Perfer to have a residential disconnect that has an external handle to turn load on.Not fun pushing in a flimsy plastic piece on a shorted load. Two very important things they don't teach while turning on safety switches: 1) should stand to side of switch 2) Take in & hold your breath when energizes equipment. Reason being if an ARC Flash was to occur you would not inhale super heated air and get third degree burns in your lungs.
I felled a piggy bank up back in the mid seventies changing out screw in fuses
hey Dustin! A little off topic , but was wondering if you were going to the Northeast electrical tradeshow at Polar Park in worcester later in september?
19:03
Even if its not electrical fire, fire company need too shut down power of the building for the fireman safety.
Would you "hose down" a live electrical panel ??!?
❤Remember to put lock on handle when turned off, You might work late into night and next day, you arrive in morning and DAAAAAMMMNNN someone turned it on.. Always put a lock or tag saying don’t turn on. I been then. Frank Martinez Downey California
Good advice! I had a rig hand (oil rig) turn on a 347/600V breaker while I was working on some equipment. My face turned white and my heart skipped a beat when I realized I was unknowingly working it hot.
Lock out tag out. Standard procedure.
Besides a lock believe OSHA requires a hasp that has at least 6 holes so 5 other trades can install their LOTO on. We had to use big labels with our name & cell phone # on them.
When would you want a fused disconnect over a non-fused disconnect with a breaker upstream of it?
The classic example is on a motor with a vfd, if the switch gear feeding the MCC has a fault the breaker will trip but if its a fault with a specific vfd the entire MCC may still be within its limits while that specific motor is well over its designed limitations.
I've seen more and more upgrades and new house installs in Massachusetts with meter box with disconnect switch bellow meter. Of course I see more meters in MA being put closer to roads away from the house , closer to the pole or underground.
Having the meter on a pole in the yard instead of on the house is (or was at one point) common in rural settings, particularly common on farms. Another situation is when a house is supplied by a feeder. Suppose you want to build a house in a very rural area, and want the house a couple hundred feet or more away from the road and tucked deep inside the woods, the power company will oftentimes want the meter at the road, because they are required provide 120/240 volts ± 5% at the meter, anything after that is the responsibility of the customer. A sneaky way for the POCO to get out of running heavier conductors or changing the taps on the transformers.
Is it an isolator switch
My thought... as a IT tech... I would prefer to have a disconnect on everywhere power comes in (grid, solar, battery), and then the circuit breakers... then any equipment to have a disconnect of some sort.
Everything needs a disconnect... only because it is stepping 120V down to 48V... doesn't mean the techs should have to go track down the breaker; they need a disconnect at the distribution box for the status lights, since they are not near the breakers...
Going around... any time I see a disconnect... I wanna turn them off, but... never have when they are not for me.
i noticed you have no zinsco on your backboard; want some?
What about breaker locks
one thing to note about vehicle fires, many pf them have Magnesium parts in the dash, particularly the steering shaft housings and large mounts, but there may be magnesium components under the hood and in other locations. once magnesium starts on fire almost nothing will put it out, unless it can be shock cooled to get it below ignition temperature.
usually when you see very bright nearly white light and sparks flying out, that's the magnesium burning. in my opinion it's equally as bad as lithium batteries burning, except there's far less of it and it will burn out sooner.
My area requires a means of disconnect directly after the meter on the outside of the building. Right now it's cheaper to buy a 200 amp feed through panel than any other 200 amp disconnect that's available locally.
Thre is no way to include everything in one video. Good video.
NOTE: Only the handle disconnect has a spot for a lock (LOTO) in the OFF position. Never drill a hole to lock it on (yes I have seen it)
Some disconnects have fuses. Copper pipe with the ends hammered down to fit does not count.
Handle type disconnects can not be opened while energized - yes there is a bypass to allow running current and voltages measurements.
Never trust nor use control logic switches. *ALWAYS* turn the power off by disconnecting it. Even for a "quick measurement. BTW the guy did find his thumb and the hospital reattached it with reduced use. It is an extra step but we all need to count to ten (not loose any fingers)
Finally, when closing or re-energizing a circuit, pick which hand you want to loose, stand to the side and operate, close, the disconnect. Only had one bad accident so far but the cannon like thump to the chest and embarrassment later was bad. Everyone came running. Had to explain it multiple times. Yes we did a tool check, but one box end wrench was left inside the MCC.
In my first house, which had fuses, it was a little fuse that was not a fuse, it was a circuit breaker; there was a little button in the middle, and you could just press the button to reset the circuit breaker
Edison breaker or generic term mini-breaker been a long time since I thought about them lol
those would be retrofit installed, into standard screw in plug type fuse boxes. probably done for insurance coverage purposes and maybe to appease home inspection for resale 😉
What would be the reason for wanting to lock a circuit ON?
Like he mentioned, fire pumps are a great example. It’s a safety critical circuit that MUST remain on and should only ever be shut off by qualified personnel.
@@EthanMatlack ok thanks
Kids used to turn off the main disconnect at a restaurant I worked at. We'd go turn it back on, they'd turn it back off. Ruined so much food, but the landlord wouldn't let us put a lock on the disconnect.
Emergency equipt, nuclear safety system loads, under engineering supervision.
Question if I am allowed. Can you reverse the flow through outlets if you first disconnect the source and run a new wire (hot) from the curcuit braker? Not wishing to overload the unit, but I believe I have a short, or gault under my mobile home. Thanks.
Using an outlet to feed power into something... with a cable with 2 male ends... that is a suicide cord and are very, very dangerous. if you are wanting to feed power into the panel from a generator... use a interlock (for you to turn off the main breaker, lift a plate to prevent the main breaker from turning on, then turn on the generator breaker), and a generator connector plug, which sometimes have their own disconnect... as they have exposed prongs.
sorry i think i must of missed it did he say that its code that the disconnect must have bonded neutral and ground? i believe i saw a disconect with the option for it
Lol
the main ground point where you bond neutral and ground legs together is the first device... so it might be the service disconnect, which point you don't bond neutral and ground in the main panel.
Detached garage. 8/3 UF cable. 240V (2 hots), Neutral and Ground (+aux ground to 8' rod)
How many poles need to be detachable?
Both hots, never switch or fuse a neutral. The only exception is inside an appliance or OEM device. And remember you don't bond the neutral and ground in a sub panel. Keep them separated electrically. Also DO NOT INSTALL THAT ADDITIONAL GROUND ROD! Multiple ground rods are a lightning hazard. The only exception is to bond the ground rods with an external #6 but totally unnecessary in your application..
@@andydelle4509 Thanks!
The aux ground is connected to the household ground but NOT the neutral.
about that truck fire. i understand you had to hutter the glass in the door. i also can justify the use of fire retardants on that flaming dash.
but once you got the truck door open, why did not you get to the battery and disconnect the lead?
IMHO, those who operated the extinguishers are the dummies or a group of poltroons.
My guess is the fire obstructed the hood release, you can shoot extinguishers in without gaining close access.
This presumes a battery under the hood, more modern cars hide it under seats or other obscure locations without reasonable disconnect possibilities.
Im in WV doing a house and the inspector wants a main service disconnect outside on the load side of the meter and the line side of the panel. Ive just never done a 300+ amp service on a residential house with a disconnect outside. its weird and I need an SPD and AFCI / combos on everything that 120v its dumb. WV is weird for codes
EV fires cannot be extinguished because once the fire starts, the chemical reaction within the lithium batteries has to completely finish. So a million gallons of water wouldn't put it out. Watch the channel What's going on with shipping. They have some great videos about EV fires on car carrier ships. Great channel about shipping on the waterways (fresh and salt water)
The safety solution for standard fuse holder was to convert them to the fusetron fuses, so a penney or knockout couldn't be used. Maybe a subway token still could have worked? I don't think so since the current needed to go from the back of the holder to the front rim, by design. A flat disc couldn't work.
Where the hell was she stuffing the hose ends?? The connection point is outside the unit on the right and you don’t check the charge of a mini-split…you recover then weigh back in the charge. Stage the scene with a real HVACR tech, Sparky! 😂
shouldn't that be "Disconnecting Mains"? lol
Firts comment ❤
That is something that always comes up in the back of my mind when I think about electric vehicles and when they ignite. I heard you are gonna need 8000 gallons of water / suppression to put out the fire. The whole novelty of electric vehicles is really neat but, we have not found the technology to properly and safely put out those fires. I'll just stick with my gas guzzling vehicle until the tech is there
it sounds like this truck was not an EV truck sense he said it spread to the fuel tank.
@@bassman87 you are probably right about that. I thinking it could have been one of those inverters that are the f150..... Dustin we need more context 😂
@@Californians_go_home I did not notice that thank you for clarifying
"You can use the breaker over and over." Not if it says FPE on it!
What is the size of an electron? 😆
much smaller than an atom :)
@@wolphin732
I feel cheated…
Blue hair extensions when working on electric motors is an ideal situation. Going a little too far to be inclusive - if that was the point of that ridiculous actor.