Ground and neutral work the same way. They are used to complete the circuit by providing a returning path to source. The ground is the emergency path to return to source. It's normally not carrying electricity so it allows the return to happen so fast that it can create a strong enough magnetic field to trip the breaker. When you bond the ground and neutral before the first disconnect or main breaker, you'll never create a strong enough magnetic field to trip it.
So quick question boss. A lot of new installs are asking for this type of disconnect.When you do this do we take off the bonding bar between neutral and ground in the main since it’s not the first means of disconnect anymore ?
Not the reason you're not allowed to bond in multiple locations. Bonding downstream of first disconnecting means creates objectionable current Flow on the ground wire
Man, your explanation of the ground/common bonding at the disconnect vs load center was exactly what I was hunting for. Thank you so much. This video is gold for a residential setup.
This is the kind of content that really gives me hope for a future workforce that has both technical skills and a positive and professional understanding of the complexities of interaction with regulators and customers. Kids who might not sign up for classes in the trades can see a great deal here that would attract them to take that next step to move into a good trade. Thanks for some great content.
I got a free estimate to move my meter from the basement to outside and install a main disconnect outside with it. It was going to cost much more than I was expecting. I ended up doing the project myself, and it was a fabulous experience learning how to do this kind of stuff properly beyond just outlets, lights, and switches. And yes at a fraction of the cost
I am as well. @@eddyparker10 I think you'd find great value in reading 'Wiring Simplified'. That book in combination with the power company's specs and a lot of TH-cam videos has given me the confidence to tackle the upgrade by myself. I'm probably going to start next week with the actually installation. Good luck!
I was so happy to hear you say "next time buy a Fluke." While Kleins DMM may be good enough, the serviceability of Fluke DMMs is second to none! TSA would regularly break the screen on my Flukes but I could buy a replacement straight from Fluke for like $12. Pop off the outer case and pop in the new screen in 5 minutes.
You said that 'the free thing can become devalued'. You're half right. There have been studies done that prove that people place absolutely NO value on free things. Thank you for taking the time to produce these videos.
Enjoying your videos. Recently retired Indianapolis Master's Electrical Engineer (not a licensed electrician) that has also had my Indy General Contactor license (15 years ago), a remodeling business and have been doing Electrical wiring for 40+ years but never pulled a meter nor replaced a main panel. I have run a subpage for hvac. I'm passionate about learning and get great fulfillment in doing things professionally myself. Now that I'm retired I have spent 40 hours last few weeks reviewing NEC 2020 and 2008 for Indy; Indy Electrical codes and permitting. Been evaluating Electrical equipment reviews, pricing equipment etc. Spent a lot of time watching Mike Holt training videos before I came across you. After reviewing all that I could find it came down to Siemens and Square D QO series panels. I like the 60 position QO Square D panel best. I like the idea of adding this disconnect to give me more flexibility when I add a 24KV Generac. I'll happily pay your fee to discuss my project and get your advice. My first preference would be to hire a Master Electrician that would let me participate in the panel change out project. But I am also open to a fair bid. I'll reach out to you to see if we can meet for a fee, no freebie. I have done my homework and prepared a scope of work. This is a 1998 4000 Sq ft home on Indy NE side with 35 breakers with many doubled up. Our new home is our forever home and I want to junk the Thomas Butts panel and upgrade to QO Square D while adding a basement QO subpanel for my basement shop. Later this year I plan to add a 24KV Generac. Hope you are interested in discussing my project. I love your videos and that you have local Indianapolis experience with AES/IPL. Tom T in The Moorings 96th & Mud Creek 46256
If it's a commercial site I would use a QO panel. For a residential I would use a Square D Homeline with the plug on neutral. You will save some money and I never seen a problem with a Homeline panel. Square D panels also has the convenient plug in surge breaker. Install it in the 1st position next to the main breaker. Then I would use all GFCI/AFCI combo breakers on every circuit that will have an outlet.
Second on using the Homeline instead of the QO. The breakers are slightly wider but the connections are better. That’s if you are set on a Square D panel. Leviton makes a very nice panel now where the wires are permanently landed on a bar and breakers can be snapped in and out without having the undo wires. And can be upgraded to a smart panel easily.
The most important thing you said was "Take care of the Next Guy!" I am a retired commercial electrician in Florida and I have seen too much work that in my mind did not come close to being done in a workmanship like manner! Thanks!
I love the lock box idea for inspectors . I have spent an unbelievable amount of time this week just sitting around waiting for Baltimore city inspectors!
This is a favorite TH-cam channel of mine. Thank you for taking the time to produce quality videos, good work practice, and good business tips. Thank you.
I love your videos. I work from home and I put your video up on the big screen and let them play while I work. I was an electrician as a young man so I live vicariously through your work.
I worked with a lineman upgrading a house to 200 amp service. He used normal garden loppers to cut the cables. worked like a charm and a lot cheaper than ratcheting cutters.
@@ElectricProAcademy I use a pair of Southwire loppers I got from Menards. Chops up to 4/0 aluminum or 3/0 copper with ease. Not very big either, just the one handed version. I would advise against using a sawzall, risk of kickback if gets snagged on the wire, and just more mess , metal shavings etc.
I don't know how you put up with all the complaining, ungrateful comments! I think you did a great job and it seems that people will always find something to complain about. Thanks for your excellent video!
some of the best practical advice I've seen, it's the little things like" best practice" techiques (like always have a tube of goo) that make a job move smoothly .
When you removed the ground conductors that were previously tightened,torqued, down, you should clip the ends. The indents on the copper are work hardened and the first place where micro cracks start. Reinserting and retightening on these spots leads to larger cracks and can cause total failure the next time those wires are moved, for appearance, maintenance or add-ons.
Your explanations are first class as well as completeness of the job. When I had my solar array installed the electrician was not present when inspector showed up. End result was a red flag that the solar company wanted me to pay for. Needless to say never used them again and they shortly went out of business.
although i just recently i started watching your videos, one things is for sure, the content is very good and also it has helped me to understand some stuff that i was in doubt THANK YOU ....
I use that same belt. 50 bucks for the pouch 30 bucks for the belt. Ad a few decent pouches and you're golden. People are buying that diamond back pouch for like 150 bucks and it's not even set up right lol. Good deal. Thanks for the video
Good video. But I"m trying to figure out, why didn't you land the EGC from the outside main disconnect box onto the new grounding bar that you added to the interior panel. If you left it connected to the neutral busbar on the left side, wouldn't that be a ground fault?
Great video. Question. On the inside panel, after separating the grounds from neutrals, do you need to move the large ground connector / external earth ground to the newly installed ground bar? Leaving it bounded to the cabinet requires the individual grounds to bond through the cabinet before getting to the earth ground. Thank you.
I am glad to see you use a torque wrench. Inspectors in the cities around (Volusia Co in Florida) started years ago insisting on verifying the torques so I have been torquing with an Snap-On lbs/in torque wrench and a ft-lbs torque wrench and used a magic marker to write the torque it was tightened to on the interior box walls and I also took a picture of the torque wrench dial as I tightened.
@@ElectricProAcademy You could do both, a lot of popular channels here like Rainman Ray's, South Main Auto etc, have both really short videos and long in depth ones whenever the subject or topic requires it. Keeps everyone happy. Most of the time. :) Can't please everyone all of the time, but it's easier to piss off most of the people most of the time... LOL
33:40 Since you mentioned it earlier, why is some wire exposed on the lower left meter connection after you mentioned it shouldn't be on the connection in the lower box? Different rules for meter and disconnect boxes?
I’m doing this in my home now. I’m installing a non fused 200amp safety switch in between my meter and ATS for my generator. Are the neutrals and grounds shared here since it is the first means of disconnect?
I enjoy watching your content. If I was not close to retirement I would recommend going into some kind of Trade like becoming an Electrician. I really think just my take on it is to first when one graduates is to get some form of Trade then decide if you want to go further than working in a trade. I have great respect for those in the trades. If I had to do it again I would become a licensed Electrician then gone into Telecom. I find both of these interesting, but I am about 4 years then I retire from the IT Industry, so this is just something I would recommend is all as a path for anyone going into and what an option is for kids these days. I just think it gives one more options. I just think having a trad and some kind of higher education is a good option as well. I will be 64 in about 4 years. I find the information very valuable though I do some of my electrical in the way that I do the running of the lines, and will connect things up. I will once it is done have someone who is licensed come and verify things as I do not trust everything I have done.
Really I'm so satisfied seeing you doing the job and giving clear and precise explanations for it. Also, although you made some safety faults, you were aware of them and criticize yourself letting to know that the idea is to save time when it is possible without giving the quality up. Thumbs up to you.👍👌🥇I'm home inspector and this content gave me some lights about not common things the inspectors do about the electrical installation of a house especially at the time to bring the final report to the potential buyer. Thanks.
Great video. Thanks. I watched the complete video. I missed something. I did understand the bonding at the first disconnect and disconnecting it at the sub panel which used to be the main panel. My question is where is the ground rod to earth?
If i am installing a manual 200 amp double throw swich in the place of your application it does not a a breaker so would it still be the only place i bond my neutral and ground
The round plastic meter cover on my panel is very oxidized and I can no longer read the numbers on the meter. Is that something that requires the replacement of the whole meter or can just the cover be replaced?
A good practice is to back the lug screws out, put antioxidant on the threads, then reinstall them. They’ll tighten much easier and years later you can back them out no problem.
Thanks for the video. So I understand that the ground in the new first disconnect you installed is an earth ground and an equipment ground via the subpanel, and that the neutral and ground in the disconnect are coupled via the green ground screw at the neutral. As to the subpanel, neutral and ground are no longer bonded, and the earth ground and equipment ground are coupled together and fed via the single ground to the new first disconnect. This arrangement appears to be not in strict compliance with the code because the earthand equipment ground are coupled in the subpanel. Am I missing something?
If you can't put your grounding electrode conductor in the meter, what do you do if you have multiple service equipment? Do you just run the GEC to the first panel and run a supply-side bonding conductor between the two service disconnects?
Can’t add much to what’s already been said, but you can see how his process is elevated to that of an artist. Basic processes for install is what most know, but all the nuances of his process shows how his experience takes his work to that of an artist.
Great video. I am in complete agreement on the value of the paid estimate. Nothing more valuable than your time and experience. Not an electrician but I work for myself and am in the service industry. I usually request for a consultation fee that is credited to the project if they use me for the project. Question: why did you/he install a new ground terminal strip for the ground?; Transferring the existing ground over to it.
Apprentice here, so I'm in no position to question a Master. Can one of the Masters or Journeymen reading this comment and correct me if I am wrong? With that said, I don't think he bonded his neutral to ground. They were bonded inside the house at the original panel. But since the inside panel box is now a subpanel, he un-bonded the neutral from the ground. However, I did not see him bond the neutral to the ground in the new box outside. Wasn't he supposed to run a bonding jumper from his neutral lug in the new disconnect box outside (the lug with the green screw 24:06) inside and land it on the ground bus inside so as to bond the grounds to the neutral at the first point after the first disconnect? OR Was he supposed to run the jumper from the ground lug to the neutral lug inside of the new disconnect box outside?
I can relate to what you are talking concerning Inspectors but from the other side. I was the Fire Marshal for our city before I retired and had to contend with everything you discussed but from the enforcement side.
@@ElectricProAcademy I watch your channel because I love learning from professionals that are dedicated to doing the job right. I found out a long time ago it is cheaper to do the job right the first time rather than trying to cut corners to save money and end up having to go back and do it right the second time. I have a lot of respect for what you are doing.
Good idea keeping the level on the box through the whole install. For whatever reason, we all know you can have that thing plumb and level the entire time, then the last dang screw that gets tightened throws the whole thing out of whack.
Do you have to use ser cable to supply a branch or feeder? Or can you use seu in a raceway with a separate egc? Or even individual 4/0 conductors with a copper egc?
Hey Joel! Great videos!! Question Re: External/Emergency House Disconnect I have a single-breaker, whole house, external, emergency disconnect box on my home. Subsequently, my first, downstream, load center, inside my garage, is actually a sub panel. If I want to add a generator inlet box/breaker, can I add it - with a properly installed interlock kit - in that first load center (subpanel); OR do I need to look at possibly altering the emergency disconnect box to accommodate the add of the breaker for the generator inlet in the outside disconnect box??? Sorry for the length! I THOUGHT it was a short question!
Been watching your videos now and have learned quite a bit. I was not aware of torque settings for circuit breakers and connectors. I went out to my panel to look for any overheated wires or loose screws. I did pick up a spare Square D circuit breaker but did not find a torque value. When did that start? It also appears that it’s easy to break/crack the housing and/or the actual connector. I would think the mfg would make them more rugged.
great video, glad I found your channel. In regards to a one-handed cutting tool, the compact bandsaws from both milwuakee and Dewalt are great for cutting feeders!
Prior to the 2020 requirement for an outdoor disconnect for emergency personnel, it was common to have one if the interior panel was installed more than a few feet away from the meter, depending on the AHJ some may specify as little as 2 to 3 foot, others maybe 6 to 8 foot. My understanding is because service conductors normally do not have overload or short circuit protection other than the primary fuse on the utility transformer, which is sized to protect the transformer and not the drop, and if the cable were damaged such as by a nail or screw on the line side of the main breaker, the conductors would be incinerated, the house likely will be on fire, and there's no way for the homeowner or firefighters to shut off the power. If lucky the primary fuse will blow or the drop melts and cuts power. And certain parts of the country have long required an outdoor disconnect anyway.
@@ElectricProAcademy I agree. I will say, the code is intentionally vague on this as it (as you know) states "...or inside nearest the point of entrance of the service conductors." If an inspector dings you for 16" in this case his a prick, plain and simple.
I understand that some of the new electronic meters will disconnect current if it exceeds the current capacity of the meter , I know many already have remote disconnect
For the installations you describe where the service conductors traverse portions of the interior of the house, typically the requirement has been that these conductors be installed in EMT, IMC, or RMC. At that point the fire and shock potential is limited significantly.
@not tellin no, for first responders to fires. For their safety and to aid in the extinguishing of electrical fires. Not everything in life is a conspiracy.
@@steveloux4709 I guess to be fair, not everyone understands that because electrical fires didn’t just start in 2020 just like the code also updated requirements for surge protection in newer builds or upgrades. You would think the safety would’ve been around a lot sooner than 2020.
Torquing is different than the Torx standard for bits (6-pointed star type). Torquing your connections requires a dedicated tool which clicks at a user-selected value. For main and major lugs we use this wrench: amzn.to/3LUCC4C, for device and smaller terminals we use this screwdriver: amzn.to/3PLsZ9L
I love your content Joel! I have a question, after you separate neutrals and grounds in the sub panel, does the main feed grounds get moved to the new ground bar?
@@ElectricProAcademy I got hit on this several years ago as a new JW. I argued that my ground lug was installed exactly like the existing one right next to it. AHJ said that the existing lug wasn't under his jurisdiction, as it had a qualifying listing, but mine did not. He did allow me to fix it on the spot. I remove the paint with a wire brush and add some de-ox to prevent rust if it's in a damp location.
does an ac disconnect consider a main panel if installed before this main service panel? my ac disconnect doesn't have any breaker it's a manual switch for disconnecting the meter from the main service manually it has 2 200amp fuse inside. so my question is if do i need a ground neutral bond in ac-disconnect switch and isolated the ground neutral bond in main service panel. or is going to be ok just ground wire into my main service panel with breakers? the existing grounding system?
I'm trying to get something similar figured out at my house. I have an indoor panel, and a combo breaker main outside. I was gunna land all the grounding inside on a ground bar, then run a big ground with the service wire outside to the outdoor panel. From there I was gunna bond neutral to ground, and run the ground rods from outside. Is that the proper way to do it?? And how should the ground wire exit the box and enter the ground? Does the ground wire need to be in conduit? I assume I can use a 3/4 knock out and a wire clamp.
So i am in a very similar situation. I noticed you didnt rip up the ground and connect the ground rods to the service meter/disconnect, you left it attached to the existing panel. Thats exactly the situation im in right now. So i have a green sheathed ground wire going from the meter to the panel, will that act as a sufficient egc and will leaving the grounding system set up like this cause any problems?
I agree with your perspective on charging for an estimate. I am willing to pay for such a valuable service especially when I do some research and I am prepared to engage in a serious dialogue.
The civil suit concluded on “do you own a torque wrench?” is a fascinating addition. That's the sort of surprisingly useful factoid that people who know me well expect to hear from me. :+ ) It's also fascinating that the utility there allows self certification of work in the meter enclosure; that is very American.
What do you do inside the box if the house only has the wiring for black and white wires but no 3rd grounding wire? Just wire it as you see it here with those 2 connected or do you have to rewire the whole house if the wiring doesn't have a ground wire in it along with the black and white for all the outlets?
Correct me if I am wrong but why did you not run your electrode conductor from rod to the em disconnect? Also shouldn’t you size the ground from the em disconnect to panel off of 250.122?
Ground and neutral work the same way. They are used to complete the circuit by providing a returning path to source. The ground is the emergency path to return to source. It's normally not carrying electricity so it allows the return to happen so fast that it can create a strong enough magnetic field to trip the breaker. When you bond the ground and neutral before the first disconnect or main breaker, you'll never create a strong enough magnetic field to trip it.
So quick question boss. A lot of new installs are asking for this type of disconnect.When you do this do we take off the bonding bar between neutral and ground in the main since it’s not the first means of disconnect anymore ?
@Art12453 yep, you will have to separate the neutral from the ground from the now sub panel.
Not the reason you're not allowed to bond in multiple locations. Bonding downstream of first disconnecting means creates objectionable current Flow on the ground wire
The sirens in the background right as you cut the tag off was perfect. 😂
ya that wasn't editing.
Man, your explanation of the ground/common bonding at the disconnect vs load center was exactly what I was hunting for. Thank you so much. This video is gold for a residential setup.
This is the kind of content that really gives me hope for a future workforce that has both technical skills and a positive and professional understanding of the complexities of interaction with regulators and customers. Kids who might not sign up for classes in the trades can see a great deal here that would attract them to take that next step to move into a good trade. Thanks for some great content.
Nah trades suck ass and not worth it. Find any other career than a trade job! These don’t pay shit!
Don’t hold your breath
I hate to say it, but@@dialac1is right...
Excersise caution as he uses a sawsall inches fom 240 V death lol.
I got a free estimate to move my meter from the basement to outside and install a main disconnect outside with it. It was going to cost much more than I was expecting. I ended up doing the project myself, and it was a fabulous experience learning how to do this kind of stuff properly beyond just outlets, lights, and switches. And yes at a fraction of the cost
I am trying to upgrade my breaker panel to 200 amps. Thats my next big project in the next 4 months.
I am as well. @@eddyparker10 I think you'd find great value in reading 'Wiring Simplified'. That book in combination with the power company's specs and a lot of TH-cam videos has given me the confidence to tackle the upgrade by myself. I'm probably going to start next week with the actually installation. Good luck!
I was so happy to hear you say "next time buy a Fluke." While Kleins DMM may be good enough, the serviceability of Fluke DMMs is second to none! TSA would regularly break the screen on my Flukes but I could buy a replacement straight from Fluke for like $12. Pop off the outer case and pop in the new screen in 5 minutes.
You said that 'the free thing can become devalued'. You're half right. There have been studies done that prove that people place absolutely NO value on free things.
Thank you for taking the time to produce these videos.
Enjoying your videos. Recently retired Indianapolis Master's Electrical Engineer (not a licensed electrician) that has also had my Indy General Contactor license (15 years ago), a remodeling business and have been doing Electrical wiring for 40+ years but never pulled a meter nor replaced a main panel. I have run a subpage for hvac.
I'm passionate about learning and get great fulfillment in doing things professionally myself. Now that I'm retired I have spent 40 hours last few weeks reviewing NEC 2020 and 2008 for Indy; Indy Electrical codes and permitting. Been evaluating Electrical equipment reviews, pricing equipment etc.
Spent a lot of time watching Mike Holt training videos before I came across you.
After reviewing all that I could find it came down to Siemens and Square D QO series panels. I like the 60 position QO Square D panel best.
I like the idea of adding this disconnect to give me more flexibility when I add a 24KV Generac.
I'll happily pay your fee to discuss my project and get your advice.
My first preference would be to hire a Master Electrician that would let me participate in the panel change out project. But I am also open to a fair bid.
I'll reach out to you to see if we can meet for a fee, no freebie. I have done my homework and prepared a scope of work.
This is a 1998 4000 Sq ft home on Indy NE side with 35 breakers with many doubled up. Our new home is our forever home and I want to junk the Thomas Butts panel and upgrade to QO Square D while adding a basement QO subpanel for my basement shop. Later this year I plan to add a 24KV Generac.
Hope you are interested in discussing my project.
I love your videos and that you have local Indianapolis experience with AES/IPL.
Tom T in The Moorings 96th & Mud Creek 46256
I love that you are a faith based company.
That's like saying you have a pilot's license but not a drivers.
If it's a commercial site I would use a QO panel. For a residential I would use a Square D Homeline with the plug on neutral. You will save some money and I never seen a problem with a Homeline panel. Square D panels also has the convenient plug in surge breaker. Install it in the 1st position next to the main breaker. Then I would use all GFCI/AFCI combo breakers on every circuit that will have an outlet.
If only every customer was like this 🤣
Second on using the Homeline instead of the QO. The breakers are slightly wider but the connections are better.
That’s if you are set on a Square D panel.
Leviton makes a very nice panel now where the wires are permanently landed on a bar and breakers can be snapped in and out without having the undo wires. And can be upgraded to a smart panel easily.
The most important thing you said was "Take care of the Next Guy!" I am a retired commercial electrician in Florida and I have seen too much work that in my mind did not come close to being done in a workmanship like manner! Thanks!
I love the lock box idea for inspectors . I have spent an unbelievable amount of time this week just sitting around waiting for Baltimore city inspectors!
Wow, not only picking up tips and tricks. I'm learning business concepts from you. Greatly appreciated!!!
This is a favorite TH-cam channel of mine. Thank you for taking the time to produce quality videos, good work practice, and good business tips. Thank you.
I'm stickin' with Joel,, He makes it easy as a pro
I love your videos. I work from home and I put your video up on the big screen and let them play while I work. I was an electrician as a young man so I live vicariously through your work.
Dude! What a well-made video with such an intelligent, lucid narration. I learned a few things for sure 👏🏼💪🏼
I worked with a lineman upgrading a house to 200 amp service. He used normal garden loppers to cut the cables. worked like a charm and a lot cheaper than ratcheting cutters.
@@ElectricProAcademy I use a pair of Southwire loppers I got from Menards. Chops up to 4/0 aluminum or 3/0 copper with ease. Not very big either, just the one handed version. I would advise against using a sawzall, risk of kickback if gets snagged on the wire, and just more mess , metal shavings etc.
Harbor Freight sells a cutter fairly cheap.
I don't know how you put up with all the complaining, ungrateful comments! I think you did a great job and it seems that people will always find something to complain about. Thanks for your excellent video!
some of the best practical advice I've seen, it's the little things like" best practice" techiques (like always have a tube of goo) that make a job move smoothly .
When you removed the ground conductors that were previously tightened,torqued, down, you should clip the ends. The indents on the copper are work hardened and the first place where micro cracks start. Reinserting and retightening on these spots leads to larger cracks and can cause total failure the next time those wires are moved, for appearance, maintenance or add-ons.
I appreciate the effort you put into this video and the tips from your years of experience doing this type of work. Thank you!
Your explanations are first class as well as completeness of the job. When I had my solar array installed the electrician was not present when inspector showed up. End result was a red flag that the solar company wanted me to pay for. Needless to say never used them again and they shortly went out of business.
Sorry to hear it! Thanks for the kind words
although i just recently i started watching your videos, one things is for sure, the content is very good and also it has helped me to understand some stuff that i was in doubt THANK YOU ....
I use that same belt. 50 bucks for the pouch 30 bucks for the belt. Ad a few decent pouches and you're golden. People are buying that diamond back pouch for like 150 bucks and it's not even set up right lol. Good deal. Thanks for the video
HAHA 😄You clip the tamper seal @ 3:10 and we hear instant sirens in the background... Perfect timing! 😎👍
Much more detail than I was originally looking for, but very much appreciated. Thanks for a great vid.
Excellent video. Thank you so much! Thanks for pointing out the Torque Wrench information, and many other things
Good video. But I"m trying to figure out, why didn't you land the EGC from the outside main disconnect box onto the new grounding bar that you added to the interior panel. If you left it connected to the neutral busbar on the left side, wouldn't that be a ground fault?
I was wondering the same.
As an apprentice, im glad to have found this channel.
This is the best electrical channel I've seen. Thank you!!
My apprentice mind greatly appreciates your video!
Great video. Question. On the inside panel, after separating the grounds from neutrals, do you need to move the large ground connector / external earth ground to the newly installed ground bar? Leaving it bounded to the cabinet requires the individual grounds to bond through the cabinet before getting to the earth ground. Thank you.
It needs to go outside to the new disconnect. There it will bond to the neutral and enclosure.
I love how thorough you are, and your attention to detail.
I am glad to see you use a torque wrench. Inspectors in the cities around (Volusia Co in Florida) started years ago insisting on verifying the torques so I have been torquing with an Snap-On lbs/in torque wrench and a ft-lbs torque wrench and used a magic marker to write the torque it was tightened to on the interior box walls and I also took a picture of the torque wrench dial as I tightened.
Thank you for making this video. It really helped fill in an information gap for my 200 amp service upgrade.
Thanks!
Thanks so much, @bradbrask!
You're an excellent teacher. Would love to see a greater commitment to safety.
Why didn't you just turn that hub around instead of using the offset?
Is that a red color coded wire you just put in a neutral lug?
Why wouldn't you use a set of loppers?
This my second time watching this video. I love how you walk us through the entire process. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome job! Thanks for being so straight about the obvious things.
The GEC is required to be unbroken from the rod to the first disconnect. You can use an un-reversable (crimping) connector.
Great video. I charge a Call Out Fee AKA estimate. Which intern covers my overhead like Insurance my time my vehicle, gas and knowledge
I've been doing my own electrical work for 45 years!
Great video and explanation of everything. One note is there is no need for the NoLox anymore unless called for by the manufacturer.
New here and holy smokes your videos are long and filled end to end with small tips and nuance. Please keep doing this!
@@ElectricProAcademy You could do both, a lot of popular channels here like Rainman Ray's, South Main Auto etc, have both really short videos and long in depth ones whenever the subject or topic requires it. Keeps everyone happy. Most of the time. :) Can't please everyone all of the time, but it's easier to piss off most of the people most of the time... LOL
33:40 Since you mentioned it earlier, why is some wire exposed on the lower left meter connection after you mentioned it shouldn't be on the connection in the lower box? Different rules for meter and disconnect boxes?
I’m doing this in my home now. I’m installing a non fused 200amp safety switch in between my meter and ATS for my generator. Are the neutrals and grounds shared here since it is the first means of disconnect?
Your most of who you hang with, I'm hanging out with you.. Cheers to success.
I enjoy watching your content. If I was not close to retirement I would recommend going into some kind of Trade like becoming an Electrician. I really think just my take on it is to first when one graduates is to get some form of Trade then decide if you want to go further than working in a trade. I have great respect for those in the trades. If I had to do it again I would become a licensed Electrician then gone into Telecom. I find both of these interesting, but I am about 4 years then I retire from the IT Industry, so this is just something I would recommend is all as a path for anyone going into and what an option is for kids these days. I just think it gives one more options. I just think having a trad and some kind of higher education is a good option as well. I will be 64 in about 4 years. I find the information very valuable though I do some of my electrical in the way that I do the running of the lines, and will connect things up. I will once it is done have someone who is licensed come and verify things as I do not trust everything I have done.
Really I'm so satisfied seeing you doing the job and giving clear and precise explanations for it. Also, although you made some safety faults, you were aware of them and criticize yourself letting to know that the idea is to save time when it is possible without giving the quality up. Thumbs up to you.👍👌🥇I'm home inspector and this content gave me some lights about not common things the inspectors do about the electrical installation of a house especially at the time to bring the final report to the potential buyer. Thanks.
Great video. Thanks. I watched the complete video. I missed something. I did understand the bonding at the first disconnect and disconnecting it at the sub panel which used to be the main panel. My question is where is the ground rod to earth?
Nice video, one that that stood out to me was using a Sawzall to cut the conductors 😅 I'd definitely recommend some cable cutters or a bandsaw 👍🏼
I thought i was the only one to use card board cut out as a shield. Good work excellent communication.
Shoulda taped the top of it quickly to the inside of the meter box cover.
If i am installing a manual 200 amp double throw swich in the place of your application it does not a a breaker so would it still be the only place i bond my neutral and ground
The round plastic meter cover on my panel is very oxidized and I can no longer read the numbers on the meter. Is that something that requires the replacement of the whole meter or can just the cover be replaced?
Just discovered channel. Nice install, and narration.👍
A good practice is to back the lug screws out, put antioxidant on the threads, then reinstall them. They’ll tighten much easier and years later you can back them out no problem.
Love your videos! Great job explaining the trade and the business side of things.
you're a phenomenal teacher
No he's not. Study grounding and bonding and you'll find he's done it wrong. FIRST POINT OF DISCONNECT
This was exactly what i was looking for. Thank you.
Another awesome video. Nolox everything ferrous to save the next guy. Love that philosophy.
Excellent information and great work.
Thanks for the video. So I understand that the ground in the new first disconnect you installed is an earth ground and an equipment ground via the subpanel, and that the neutral and ground in the disconnect are coupled via the green ground screw at the neutral. As to the subpanel, neutral and ground are no longer bonded, and the earth ground and equipment ground are coupled together and fed via the single ground to the new first disconnect. This arrangement appears to be not in strict compliance with the code because the earthand equipment ground are coupled in the subpanel. Am I missing something?
If you can't put your grounding electrode conductor in the meter, what do you do if you have multiple service equipment? Do you just run the GEC to the first panel and run a supply-side bonding conductor between the two service disconnects?
Can’t add much to what’s already been said, but you can see how his process is elevated to that of an artist. Basic processes for install is what most know, but all the nuances of his process shows how his experience takes his work to that of an artist.
Could you do a video explaining when and where to bond or not bond your neutral/ground buss bars?
Great video. I am in complete agreement on the value of the paid estimate. Nothing more valuable than your time and experience. Not an electrician but I work for myself and am in the service industry. I usually request for a consultation fee that is credited to the project if they use me for the project. Question: why did you/he install a new ground terminal strip for the ground?; Transferring the existing ground over to it.
Great video. Nice dialogue. Appreciate the insights.
Always a good day when you get the opportunity to use the word serendipitous in relation to your work.
😂
Apprentice here, so I'm in no position to question a Master. Can one of the Masters or Journeymen reading this comment and correct me if I am wrong?
With that said, I don't think he bonded his neutral to ground. They were bonded inside the house at the original panel. But since the inside panel box is now a subpanel, he un-bonded the neutral from the ground. However, I did not see him bond the neutral to the ground in the new box outside.
Wasn't he supposed to run a bonding jumper from his neutral lug in the new disconnect box outside (the lug with the green screw 24:06) inside and land it on the ground bus inside so as to bond the grounds to the neutral at the first point after the first disconnect?
OR
Was he supposed to run the jumper from the ground lug to the neutral lug inside of the new disconnect box outside?
I can relate to what you are talking concerning Inspectors but from the other side. I was the Fire Marshal for our city before I retired and had to contend with everything you discussed but from the enforcement side.
Thank you for doing your job well. Though it often slows our progress, we appreciate having more (sadly, not total...) certainty in others' work.
@@ElectricProAcademy I always tried to do my job right. If my name was attached/associated with something it had better be correct.
@@ElectricProAcademy I watch your channel because I love learning from professionals that are dedicated to doing the job right. I found out a long time ago it is cheaper to do the job right the first time rather than trying to cut corners to save money and end up having to go back and do it right the second time. I have a lot of respect for what you are doing.
Good idea keeping the level on the box through the whole install. For whatever reason, we all know you can have that thing plumb and level the entire time, then the last dang screw that gets tightened throws the whole thing out of whack.
I like be when you explain everything. Great to have a reason behind things
Awesome video Wisdom,knowledge,experience thanks for sharing
Do you have to use ser cable to supply a branch or feeder? Or can you use seu in a raceway with a separate egc? Or even individual 4/0 conductors with a copper egc?
Hi, thanks for the Videos.I am verry interested.Its really exciting how it works in the US.Greetings from Austria.
As this is the first means of disconnect, shouldn't the grounded conductor be bonded to the grounding service conductors?
HOWdy E-P-A,
I will tackle a similar outside Service disconnect
You have given me a LOT of great POINTERS
Thanks
COOP
...
Hey Joel! Great videos!!
Question Re: External/Emergency House Disconnect
I have a single-breaker, whole house, external, emergency disconnect box on my home. Subsequently, my first, downstream, load center, inside my garage, is actually a sub panel.
If I want to add a generator inlet box/breaker, can I add it - with a properly installed interlock kit - in that first load center (subpanel); OR do I need to look at possibly altering the emergency disconnect box to accommodate the add of the breaker for the generator inlet in the outside disconnect box??? Sorry for the length! I THOUGHT it was a short question!
Been watching your videos now and have learned quite a bit. I was not aware of torque settings for circuit breakers and connectors. I went out to my panel to look for any overheated wires or loose screws. I did pick up a spare Square D circuit breaker but did not find a torque value. When did that start? It also appears that it’s easy to break/crack the housing and/or the actual connector. I would think the mfg would make them more rugged.
Surprised you didn’t lubricate terminal screws? That normally requires adjusting torque settings.
😊
great video, glad I found your channel. In regards to a one-handed cutting tool, the compact bandsaws from both milwuakee and Dewalt are great for cutting feeders!
I've come to really love my compact band saw. Been using it fairly often in our more recent videos!
Would the cable and gas bond be in the main service disconnect or the sub panel?
Prior to the 2020 requirement for an outdoor disconnect for emergency personnel, it was common to have one if the interior panel was installed more than a few feet away from the meter, depending on the AHJ some may specify as little as 2 to 3 foot, others maybe 6 to 8 foot. My understanding is because service conductors normally do not have overload or short circuit protection other than the primary fuse on the utility transformer, which is sized to protect the transformer and not the drop, and if the cable were damaged such as by a nail or screw on the line side of the main breaker, the conductors would be incinerated, the house likely will be on fire, and there's no way for the homeowner or firefighters to shut off the power. If lucky the primary fuse will blow or the drop melts and cuts power. And certain parts of the country have long required an outdoor disconnect anyway.
@@ElectricProAcademy I agree. I will say, the code is intentionally vague on this as it (as you know) states "...or inside nearest the point of
entrance of the service conductors." If an inspector dings you for 16" in this case his a prick, plain and simple.
I understand that some of the new electronic meters will disconnect current if it exceeds the current capacity of the meter , I know many already have remote disconnect
For the installations you describe where the service conductors traverse portions of the interior of the house, typically the requirement has been that these conductors be installed in EMT, IMC, or RMC. At that point the fire and shock potential is limited significantly.
@not tellin no, for first responders to fires. For their safety and to aid in the extinguishing of electrical fires. Not everything in life is a conspiracy.
@@steveloux4709 I guess to be fair, not everyone understands that because electrical fires didn’t just start in 2020 just like the code also updated requirements for surge protection in newer builds or upgrades. You would think the safety would’ve been around a lot sooner than 2020.
What tool can I get to torque my connections. Is it a torx bit ?
Torquing is different than the Torx standard for bits (6-pointed star type). Torquing your connections requires a dedicated tool which clicks at a user-selected value. For main and major lugs we use this wrench: amzn.to/3LUCC4C, for device and smaller terminals we use this screwdriver: amzn.to/3PLsZ9L
What I needed was a Torx socket which would fit the main panel lugs, I don’t know what size the socket I need.
Ah, sorry. That information may be different based on manufacturer but sounds like you're looking for something like this? amzn.to/48CJ4q0
I could totally work with this guy.
You in the Indy area?...
Good job man.
I love your content Joel! I have a question, after you separate neutrals and grounds in the sub panel, does the main feed grounds get moved to the new ground bar?
So how did you comply with 250.12 when installing your new ground bar inside the panel?
@@ElectricProAcademy I got hit on this several years ago as a new JW. I argued that my ground lug was installed exactly like the existing one right next to it. AHJ said that the existing lug wasn't under his jurisdiction, as it had a qualifying listing, but mine did not. He did allow me to fix it on the spot.
I remove the paint with a wire brush and add some de-ox to prevent rust if it's in a damp location.
love your videos, keep the good work and sharing your knowledge
does an ac disconnect consider a main panel if installed before this main service panel? my ac disconnect doesn't have any breaker it's a manual switch for disconnecting the meter from the main service manually it has 2 200amp fuse inside. so my question is if do i need a ground neutral bond in ac-disconnect switch and isolated the ground neutral bond in main service panel. or is going to be ok just ground wire into my main service panel with breakers? the existing grounding system?
With a external disconnect, you dont have the ground and neutral bonded in the pannel?
Awesome video. Very well done and informative!
I'm trying to get something similar figured out at my house. I have an indoor panel, and a combo breaker main outside. I was gunna land all the grounding inside on a ground bar, then run a big ground with the service wire outside to the outdoor panel. From there I was gunna bond neutral to ground, and run the ground rods from outside. Is that the proper way to do it?? And how should the ground wire exit the box and enter the ground? Does the ground wire need to be in conduit? I assume I can use a 3/4 knock out and a wire clamp.
So i am in a very similar situation. I noticed you didnt rip up the ground and connect the ground rods to the service meter/disconnect, you left it attached to the existing panel. Thats exactly the situation im in right now. So i have a green sheathed ground wire going from the meter to the panel, will that act as a sufficient egc and will leaving the grounding system set up like this cause any problems?
I agree with your perspective on charging for an estimate. I am willing to pay for such a valuable service especially when I do some research and I am prepared to engage in a serious dialogue.
Never heard of NoLox. I have used clear silicone caulk for years. It waterproofs and prevents rust.
If you don't mind,I have a question what is the phase difference between those hot two wire.?
The civil suit concluded on “do you own a torque wrench?” is a fascinating addition. That's the sort of surprisingly useful factoid that people who know me well expect to hear from me. :+ )
It's also fascinating that the utility there allows self certification of work in the meter enclosure; that is very American.
What do you do inside the box if the house only has the wiring for black and white wires but no 3rd grounding wire? Just wire it as you see it here with those 2 connected or do you have to rewire the whole house if the wiring doesn't have a ground wire in it along with the black and white for all the outlets?
Great workmanship indeed
Correct me if I am wrong but why did you not run your electrode conductor from rod to the em disconnect? Also shouldn’t you size the ground from the em disconnect to panel off of 250.122?
Would you need to ground the disconnect, if it were off the main, and the disconnect is feeding a sub-panel?