How To Add An External Electrical Disconnect To Your Home
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ค. 2024
- Electric Pro Academy - Real skills to make real money.
Synopsis:
Disclaimer: This video is for entertainment purposes only and should not be attempted by homeowners, DIYers, or other electricians without utility permission. Doing so may result in fines in many jurisdictions.
There are 2 main reasons or advantages to having an external electrical disconnect: 1) According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), the main electrical panel of the home should be in close proximity to the entrance of the electrical utility service; however, if this is not possible, a main disconnect needs to be installed in a readily accessible place near the utility service. 2) An external disconnect enables the homeowner to cut off power to the main panel lugs, which would otherwise remain energized and dangerous even if the main breaker was turned off inside the panel. This can give greater peace of mind for future panel servicing.
In this video, Joel will safely install an external electrical disconnect in a historic home’s operational electrical system, due to a code violation identified by a modern inspector long after the installation. Within the technical instruction are recommendations and points of professionalism employed daily by Jefferson Electric masters, journeymen, & apprentices.
If the instruction in this video is unclear or skew to what you are searching for, feel free to comment below for additional assistance. Got a question or ideas for a future video? Leave a comment below and submit your idea here: forms.clickup.com/f/23xa9-70/...
Thank you for watching; we value your feedback and monitor this channel daily.
EPro-To-Call Beta:
You’ve got the tools and the willingness to solve your own electrical problem, but are held up by a couple ominous details. Rather than hiring out the whole project, get a 15-year professional electrician’s expertise directly via video or voice call to overcome your home project obstacle; EPro’s own Joel Walsman is available for any electrical question, with complete transparency & full-bodied advice for the seasoned or novice DIYer. Get the certainty of a pro’s past experience, present attention to detail, and knack for the future!
1-on-1 Call -- Click here to signup: electric-pro-academy.square.s...
Products We’d Recommend:
*EPRO endorses pro-level tools & materials, and receives a small commission for purchases through our links from Amazon & other affiliate programs. We’d be happy to recommend more cost-effective products for DIYers and low-frequency users if you engage with us in the comment section!
[] Siemens 200-Amp Outdoor Circuit Breaker Enclosure: amzn.to/3tIm7if
[] Dewalt 20V Max Atomic Brushless One-Handed Sawzall (DCS369): amzn.to/3CsHJmR
[] Dewalt 20V Max XR Brushless Sawzall (DCS367): amzn.to/3CtrxBK
[] Dewalt 20V Max XR Brushless Impact Driver (DCF887): amzn.to/3Ksw1LO
[] Dewalt 20V Max XR Brushless Hammer Drill (DCD999): amzn.to/3MNKYtY
[] Klein Tools Insulated Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/3JbvL3m
[] Gardner Bender Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound: amzn.to/3sWYrHR
[] Gorilla Adhesive Tube: amzn.to/3MAdX4d
[] Oatey All-Weather Medium PVC Cement: amzn.to/3pSEhwK
[] Swanson Magnetic Level: amzn.to/3J0UPdB
[] Combo Wire Brush: amzn.to/3ibw96t
[] Neiko 1/2" Adjustable Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3vTOMUv
[] Milwaukee Wire Strippers: www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee...
National Electrical Code (NEC) referenced in this video:
Free Access Here: www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standa...
[] Readily-Accessible Disconnecting Means [NEC 230.70(A)(1)]
[] Grounding Conductor Sizing [NEC Table 250.66]
Outline:
0:00 - Inspection Prep & Permits
1:46 - Reason For Disconnect Installation
2:58 - Disconnecting Power
6:37 - Disconnecting Fasteners
7:52 - Prepping New Disconnect Hardware
12:38 - Mounting New Disconnect
17:50 - Terminating Wire In New Disconnect
27:12 - Terminating Wire Between Disconnect & Meter Base
38:16 - Reinstalling Meter
39:44 - Grounding Considerations & Closing Disconnect
42:04 - Separating Grounds & Neutrals In Panel (“Secondary Means of Disconnect”)
Connect With Us:
Electric Pro Academy is a multimedia team dedicated to training and instructing DIYers and professional electricians for the growth and dignity of the craft nationwide.
/ electricproacademy
/ electricproacademy
odysee.com/@ElectricPro
Jefferson Electric installs and services residential, commercial, solar, and Tesla systems in Indianapolis, IN.
www.jeffersonelectricllc.com/
/ jeffersonelectric
/ jefferson-electric-llc
Ground and neutral work the same way. They are used to complete the circuit by providing a returning path to source. The ground is the emergency path to return to source. It's normally not carrying electricity so it allows the return to happen so fast that it can create a strong enough magnetic field to trip the breaker. When you bond the ground and neutral before the first disconnect or main breaker, you'll never create a strong enough magnetic field to trip it.
The sirens in the background right as you cut the tag off was perfect. 😂
I got a free estimate to move my meter from the basement to outside and install a main disconnect outside with it. It was going to cost much more than I was expecting. I ended up doing the project myself, and it was a fabulous experience learning how to do this kind of stuff properly beyond just outlets, lights, and switches. And yes at a fraction of the cost
I am trying to upgrade my breaker panel to 200 amps. Thats my next big project in the next 4 months.
I am as well. @@eddyparker10 I think you'd find great value in reading 'Wiring Simplified'. That book in combination with the power company's specs and a lot of TH-cam videos has given me the confidence to tackle the upgrade by myself. I'm probably going to start next week with the actually installation. Good luck!
Man, your explanation of the ground/common bonding at the disconnect vs load center was exactly what I was hunting for. Thank you so much. This video is gold for a residential setup.
You said that 'the free thing can become devalued'. You're half right. There have been studies done that prove that people place absolutely NO value on free things.
Thank you for taking the time to produce these videos.
This is the kind of content that really gives me hope for a future workforce that has both technical skills and a positive and professional understanding of the complexities of interaction with regulators and customers. Kids who might not sign up for classes in the trades can see a great deal here that would attract them to take that next step to move into a good trade. Thanks for some great content.
Nah trades suck ass and not worth it. Find any other career than a trade job! These don’t pay shit!
Don’t hold your breath
I hate to say it, but@@dialac1is right...
Excersise caution as he uses a sawsall inches fom 240 V death lol.
I was so happy to hear you say "next time buy a Fluke." While Kleins DMM may be good enough, the serviceability of Fluke DMMs is second to none! TSA would regularly break the screen on my Flukes but I could buy a replacement straight from Fluke for like $12. Pop off the outer case and pop in the new screen in 5 minutes.
I love the lock box idea for inspectors . I have spent an unbelievable amount of time this week just sitting around waiting for Baltimore city inspectors!
Dude! What a well-made video with such an intelligent, lucid narration. I learned a few things for sure 👏🏼💪🏼
When you removed the ground conductors that were previously tightened,torqued, down, you should clip the ends. The indents on the copper are work hardened and the first place where micro cracks start. Reinserting and retightening on these spots leads to larger cracks and can cause total failure the next time those wires are moved, for appearance, maintenance or add-ons.
I love your videos. I work from home and I put your video up on the big screen and let them play while I work. I was an electrician as a young man so I live vicariously through your work.
This is a favorite TH-cam channel of mine. Thank you for taking the time to produce quality videos, good work practice, and good business tips. Thank you.
Wow, not only picking up tips and tricks. I'm learning business concepts from you. Greatly appreciated!!!
although i just recently i started watching your videos, one things is for sure, the content is very good and also it has helped me to understand some stuff that i was in doubt THANK YOU ....
I appreciate the effort you put into this video and the tips from your years of experience doing this type of work. Thank you!
The wrapping around s e r, sec , inside conductors before the outer sheath, is a rodent protectant material wrap
This my second time watching this video. I love how you walk us through the entire process. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
HAHA 😄You clip the tamper seal @ 3:10 and we hear instant sirens in the background... Perfect timing! 😎👍
Awesome job! Thanks for being so straight about the obvious things.
I love how thorough you are, and your attention to detail.
Much more detail than I was originally looking for, but very much appreciated. Thanks for a great vid.
I worked with a lineman upgrading a house to 200 amp service. He used normal garden loppers to cut the cables. worked like a charm and a lot cheaper than ratcheting cutters.
@@ElectricProAcademy I use a pair of Southwire loppers I got from Menards. Chops up to 4/0 aluminum or 3/0 copper with ease. Not very big either, just the one handed version. I would advise against using a sawzall, risk of kickback if gets snagged on the wire, and just more mess , metal shavings etc.
Harbor Freight sells a cutter fairly cheap.
some of the best practical advice I've seen, it's the little things like" best practice" techiques (like always have a tube of goo) that make a job move smoothly .
Excellent video. Thank you so much! Thanks for pointing out the Torque Wrench information, and many other things
Enjoying your videos. Recently retired Indianapolis Master's Electrical Engineer (not a licensed electrician) that has also had my Indy General Contactor license (15 years ago), a remodeling business and have been doing Electrical wiring for 40+ years but never pulled a meter nor replaced a main panel. I have run a subpage for hvac.
I'm passionate about learning and get great fulfillment in doing things professionally myself. Now that I'm retired I have spent 40 hours last few weeks reviewing NEC 2020 and 2008 for Indy; Indy Electrical codes and permitting. Been evaluating Electrical equipment reviews, pricing equipment etc.
Spent a lot of time watching Mike Holt training videos before I came across you.
After reviewing all that I could find it came down to Siemens and Square D QO series panels. I like the 60 position QO Square D panel best.
I like the idea of adding this disconnect to give me more flexibility when I add a 24KV Generac.
I'll happily pay your fee to discuss my project and get your advice.
My first preference would be to hire a Master Electrician that would let me participate in the panel change out project. But I am also open to a fair bid.
I'll reach out to you to see if we can meet for a fee, no freebie. I have done my homework and prepared a scope of work.
This is a 1998 4000 Sq ft home on Indy NE side with 35 breakers with many doubled up. Our new home is our forever home and I want to junk the Thomas Butts panel and upgrade to QO Square D while adding a basement QO subpanel for my basement shop. Later this year I plan to add a 24KV Generac.
Hope you are interested in discussing my project.
I love your videos and that you have local Indianapolis experience with AES/IPL.
Tom T in The Moorings 96th & Mud Creek 46256
I love that you are a faith based company.
That's like saying you have a pilot's license but not a drivers.
If it's a commercial site I would use a QO panel. For a residential I would use a Square D Homeline with the plug on neutral. You will save some money and I never seen a problem with a Homeline panel. Square D panels also has the convenient plug in surge breaker. Install it in the 1st position next to the main breaker. Then I would use all GFCI/AFCI combo breakers on every circuit that will have an outlet.
If only every customer was like this 🤣
Second on using the Homeline instead of the QO. The breakers are slightly wider but the connections are better.
That’s if you are set on a Square D panel.
Leviton makes a very nice panel now where the wires are permanently landed on a bar and breakers can be snapped in and out without having the undo wires. And can be upgraded to a smart panel easily.
Great video and explanation of everything. One note is there is no need for the NoLox anymore unless called for by the manufacturer.
This is the best electrical channel I've seen. Thank you!!
New here and holy smokes your videos are long and filled end to end with small tips and nuance. Please keep doing this!
@@ElectricProAcademy You could do both, a lot of popular channels here like Rainman Ray's, South Main Auto etc, have both really short videos and long in depth ones whenever the subject or topic requires it. Keeps everyone happy. Most of the time. :) Can't please everyone all of the time, but it's easier to piss off most of the people most of the time... LOL
Really I'm so satisfied seeing you doing the job and giving clear and precise explanations for it. Also, although you made some safety faults, you were aware of them and criticize yourself letting to know that the idea is to save time when it is possible without giving the quality up. Thumbs up to you.👍👌🥇I'm home inspector and this content gave me some lights about not common things the inspectors do about the electrical installation of a house especially at the time to bring the final report to the potential buyer. Thanks.
Thank you for making this video. It really helped fill in an information gap for my 200 amp service upgrade.
The GEC is required to be unbroken from the rod to the first disconnect. You can use an un-reversable (crimping) connector.
I like be when you explain everything. Great to have a reason behind things
A good practice is to back the lug screws out, put antioxidant on the threads, then reinstall them. They’ll tighten much easier and years later you can back them out no problem.
Your explanations are first class as well as completeness of the job. When I had my solar array installed the electrician was not present when inspector showed up. End result was a red flag that the solar company wanted me to pay for. Needless to say never used them again and they shortly went out of business.
Sorry to hear it! Thanks for the kind words
love your videos, keep the good work and sharing your knowledge
I'm stickin' with Joel,, He makes it easy as a pro
As an apprentice, im glad to have found this channel.
Great video. I charge a Call Out Fee AKA estimate. Which intern covers my overhead like Insurance my time my vehicle, gas and knowledge
Awesome video Wisdom,knowledge,experience thanks for sharing
My apprentice mind greatly appreciates your video!
Your most of who you hang with, I'm hanging out with you.. Cheers to success.
Great video. Nice dialogue. Appreciate the insights.
You're an excellent teacher. Would love to see a greater commitment to safety.
Why didn't you just turn that hub around instead of using the offset?
Is that a red color coded wire you just put in a neutral lug?
Why wouldn't you use a set of loppers?
Very well done. Thank you.
Just discovered channel. Nice install, and narration.👍
Nice video good content
I like that you point out ever little thing goes right and wrong
Like nicks on insulation or missed step labeling wires white tape
Nice video, one that that stood out to me was using a Sawzall to cut the conductors 😅 I'd definitely recommend some cable cutters or a bandsaw 👍🏼
2023 you have to label your main disconnect “Emergency Disconnect, Service Disconnect” on the outside of the box, white letters on a red background with the letters at least 1/2” tall
great video, glad I found your channel. In regards to a one-handed cutting tool, the compact bandsaws from both milwuakee and Dewalt are great for cutting feeders!
I've come to really love my compact band saw. Been using it fairly often in our more recent videos!
Absolutely love the content bro !
I agree with your perspective on charging for an estimate. I am willing to pay for such a valuable service especially when I do some research and I am prepared to engage in a serious dialogue.
I use that same belt. 50 bucks for the pouch 30 bucks for the belt. Ad a few decent pouches and you're golden. People are buying that diamond back pouch for like 150 bucks and it's not even set up right lol. Good deal. Thanks for the video
This was exactly what i was looking for. Thank you.
Great workmanship indeed
I enjoy watching your content. If I was not close to retirement I would recommend going into some kind of Trade like becoming an Electrician. I really think just my take on it is to first when one graduates is to get some form of Trade then decide if you want to go further than working in a trade. I have great respect for those in the trades. If I had to do it again I would become a licensed Electrician then gone into Telecom. I find both of these interesting, but I am about 4 years then I retire from the IT Industry, so this is just something I would recommend is all as a path for anyone going into and what an option is for kids these days. I just think it gives one more options. I just think having a trad and some kind of higher education is a good option as well. I will be 64 in about 4 years. I find the information very valuable though I do some of my electrical in the way that I do the running of the lines, and will connect things up. I will once it is done have someone who is licensed come and verify things as I do not trust everything I have done.
If a electrician is fired and fails to get rehired they will be hired as a inspector and get revenge in most cases.
Those that can't do the job... end up as teachers or inspectors.
@@briansmyla8696you do realize that you just insulted every teacher you’ve ever had.
Wow thats cool i enjoyed it. I;m thinking about doing this too. I have a split bus panel in my home. and this will be a nice feature.
I thought i was the only one to use card board cut out as a shield. Good work excellent communication.
Shoulda taped the top of it quickly to the inside of the meter box cover.
HOWdy E-P-A,
I will tackle a similar outside Service disconnect
You have given me a LOT of great POINTERS
Thanks
COOP
...
you're a phenomenal teacher
No he's not. Study grounding and bonding and you'll find he's done it wrong. FIRST POINT OF DISCONNECT
Good idea keeping the level on the box through the whole install. For whatever reason, we all know you can have that thing plumb and level the entire time, then the last dang screw that gets tightened throws the whole thing out of whack.
I have a fluke and a small southwire tester that dose not require battery to work just in case. Been there on the roof of a college going to test a 480 volts ac disconnect to start taking it apart when the battery’s crap out on me. I feel you.
Hi, thanks for the Videos.I am verry interested.Its really exciting how it works in the US.Greetings from Austria.
I don't know how you put up with all the complaining, ungrateful comments! I think you did a great job and it seems that people will always find something to complain about. Thanks for your excellent video!
Awesome video. Very well done and informative!
As a water utility employee. I wish they would not allow grounding to the water or gas lines.
When something goes wrong we get to see and feel the jolt. When we remove a water meter and sparks fly, that is no good. We should all work together to keep all utilities separated.
Gas should have an insulating union at the riser. The gas company uses a low dc voltage for impressed current Catholic Protection on steel gas lines.
Never ground or bond before the meter. All bonding should happen on the fuel line after the meter. If you see a yellow wire near the gas riser do not connect anything to that.
That is why it's required to have a jumper to prevent that issue when removing a water heater or water meter.
The water/gas lines are not being grounded -they are bonded to the grounding system. Bonding means that there is an continuous path to the main panel (continuity). All metal piping systems that are likely to become energized needs to be bonded to the grounding system. This is to ensure that if a fault occurs, the current will find it's way back to the panel and trip the breaker. If you are being shocked by metal water/gas piping, it is likely there is not continuity (correctly bonded) to the grounding system.... Proper electrical systems are designed to fail safely.
@@briansiebert8242 I have seen so many electricians connect to the gas riser. Do not do that regardless of what you call it.
but dude, without bonding, should a wire become loose and energize the water or gas line, you will get lit up either way... proper bonding is supposed to prevent that
Another awesome video. Nolox everything ferrous to save the next guy. Love that philosophy.
I can relate to what you are talking concerning Inspectors but from the other side. I was the Fire Marshal for our city before I retired and had to contend with everything you discussed but from the enforcement side.
Thank you for doing your job well. Though it often slows our progress, we appreciate having more (sadly, not total...) certainty in others' work.
@@ElectricProAcademy I always tried to do my job right. If my name was attached/associated with something it had better be correct.
@@ElectricProAcademy I watch your channel because I love learning from professionals that are dedicated to doing the job right. I found out a long time ago it is cheaper to do the job right the first time rather than trying to cut corners to save money and end up having to go back and do it right the second time. I have a lot of respect for what you are doing.
Can’t add much to what’s already been said, but you can see how his process is elevated to that of an artist. Basic processes for install is what most know, but all the nuances of his process shows how his experience takes his work to that of an artist.
Good job man.
Better practise:
* There are 1000V rated rubber sheets with magnets in the corners, that can be used to safely cover live terminals. Those are quite handy and better than a pice of box, you could use such eqipment to cover the live meter terminals.
* There are safety goggles with protection against arcs. Also I would recommend an arc proof jacket. It's not overly expensive, cheaper than a skin reconstruction surgery. God knows whats the inner resistance of the supply line, in case of a mishap you don't want to go blind and loose lots of skin.
* Doing safety insolation precedures using a proper (for example Fluke T+Pro, Beha-Amprobe 2100, etc.) electrical tester is always a good idea, even if it looks like it's separated. You never know if there is an old hidden bypass to steal electricity that's well enough hidden to be missed. You never know. You test.
* Adding that switch was the perfect opportunity to also add surge protection at the entrypoint, where it's most effective. A combined SPD Type 1+2 would be perfect there and never a waste of money with all those open-air supply cables, in my opinion.
* Seemingly bonding between PE and Neutral was done via the casing of the box. Instead using a separate conductor would be better, since I have doubts about the capability of the box to handle any stronger surges and keep electric corrosion away from structural parts. Always offer a better low ohms path to stray currents on PE otherweise they will corrode your structural screws over the years like hell.
* Using insolated tools is always a good idea.
* I would use quite a bit more Aluminum anti-ox grease for additional anti-moisture coating, that pays off a lot on the long term. Capilary effects on stranded wires tend to pull moisture.
* This kind of work justifies making a full round of measurements (Lo ohm PE test, grid inner resistance Zi, loop Zs, Riso) to make sure there are no surprises on the cables hidden in those PVC pipes that are not visible to regular continuity / resistance tests.
Never heard of NoLox. I have used clear silicone caulk for years. It waterproofs and prevents rust.
Amazon has a pair of ratcheting wire cutters no more than $80 the pair I bought was $57 and works really well
excellent video in every way!
Here in Indiana all new construction an any electrical renovations has to have this - if cause of fire the first thing the fire dept will do is turn the power off - an for any emergencies
The timing of when you cut the tag (3:10) and a siren went off in the background. 😂😂😂
Could you do a video explaining when and where to bond or not bond your neutral/ground buss bars?
Hey Joel! Great videos!!
Question Re: External/Emergency House Disconnect
I have a single-breaker, whole house, external, emergency disconnect box on my home. Subsequently, my first, downstream, load center, inside my garage, is actually a sub panel.
If I want to add a generator inlet box/breaker, can I add it - with a properly installed interlock kit - in that first load center (subpanel); OR do I need to look at possibly altering the emergency disconnect box to accommodate the add of the breaker for the generator inlet in the outside disconnect box??? Sorry for the length! I THOUGHT it was a short question!
I love your content Joel! I have a question, after you separate neutrals and grounds in the sub panel, does the main feed grounds get moved to the new ground bar?
Great Video, Ron in TN watt you need electrical
Great video!
I've been doing my own electrical work for 45 years!
thanks for posting very excellent video presentation so complete, one simple question if you don't mind, once you removed the ground wires in the inside panel near min 51, I noticed that some were very distorted from the previous connection, is there a rule or code that makes you use a fresh conductor not one that was already stressed and distorted? I would prefer to nip the end tip since you have plenty of wire and start with a new surface to contact the ground screw, please comment about common practice or your logic?
The circuit between your new service disconnect and you’re now subpanel inside is a feeder. Feeders are required to have equipment grounding conductors 215.6 sized based on 250.122. Not 250.66. 250.66 is for a grounding electrode conductor. A grounding electrode conductor would be required either in or before a service disconnect separately from the requirement for the equipment grounding conductor on the feeder. 250.24(A)(1).
Really great video
Hey mate planing on doing my own mini split instal and since the main breaker panel for it is out of sight I need to add a disconnect. Most I have seen are the non fuse pull tap type which I'm not a fan of. Could I use a lever type disconnect box or a single 30 amp breaker box? If so what is your opinion on those options vs the tap pull out type? Thanks for your reply.
im learning from you - bravo!
If you can't put your grounding electrode conductor in the meter, what do you do if you have multiple service equipment? Do you just run the GEC to the first panel and run a supply-side bonding conductor between the two service disconnects?
Great video. Question. On the inside panel, after separating the grounds from neutrals, do you need to move the large ground connector / external earth ground to the newly installed ground bar? Leaving it bounded to the cabinet requires the individual grounds to bond through the cabinet before getting to the earth ground. Thank you.
It needs to go outside to the new disconnect. There it will bond to the neutral and enclosure.
Great video. I am in complete agreement on the value of the paid estimate. Nothing more valuable than your time and experience. Not an electrician but I work for myself and am in the service industry. I usually request for a consultation fee that is credited to the project if they use me for the project. Question: why did you/he install a new ground terminal strip for the ground?; Transferring the existing ground over to it.
That SER must have been really fun pulling through that lb rather than using individual conductors. And one rule I learned is always have more than one meter in my vehicle.
You just Violated NFPA-70E PPE category one Requires PPE single rated arc rated clothing, Face and head protection needed for arc Flash Also require clothing
Q: Before you leave your newly installed outside disconnect and go to the basement and continue working, are you required to put a lockout tag and/or lock on the disconnect panel cover to prevent someone from flipping ON your new disconnect breaker? Asking out of ignorance.
20:17 it's also an automotive tool for cleaning battery terminals. sold at different prices manufactured by the same companies
I’m doing this in my home now. I’m installing a non fused 200amp safety switch in between my meter and ATS for my generator. Are the neutrals and grounds shared here since it is the first means of disconnect?
Thanks👍🏻
Tradesmen around me, especially electricians, refuse to use a level. Love to see it.
thank you
What do you do inside the box if the house only has the wiring for black and white wires but no 3rd grounding wire? Just wire it as you see it here with those 2 connected or do you have to rewire the whole house if the wiring doesn't have a ground wire in it along with the black and white for all the outlets?
The civil suit concluded on “do you own a torque wrench?” is a fascinating addition. That's the sort of surprisingly useful factoid that people who know me well expect to hear from me. :+ )
It's also fascinating that the utility there allows self certification of work in the meter enclosure; that is very American.