X5S Electronics Upgrade
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2018
- lets upgrade the Electronics Control board of the Tronxy X5S 3D printer and while were at it, lets up the Heat Bed to 24V to get better temperatures for ABS etc.
The current Melzi like control board has many issues like no expansion capability, limited FLASH, non upgrade-able stepper drivers to mention a few.
Marlin 1.1.8 was used as per the Tronxy X5S Melzi configuration but modified for the Ramps EFB board type and enabling all the features I wanted to include now I have more FLASH and RAM they will fit.
This also now opens the way to add BLTouch, Trinamics 2830 SPI Drivers and more
You can find my current Config File here github.com/thebreadboard/MARLIN
External MOSFET Here goo.gl/SrkWLL
Ramps Board (24V upgrade-able) goo.gl/RRvL63
24V 15A PSU goo.gl/vn1Daq (Remember you will need to turn down the volts as far as it will go so you dont overload this)
Features include
LCD Manual Mesh Bed Level
Nozzle Parking
Filament Load and Unload
Auto PID Tune
Heating runaway protection for Hotend and Bed
etc. Search for "//RPO" in the config files for everything I changed or checked from Default settings.
My gantry belt straighter is here www.thingiverse.com/thing:295...
and the washer here :- www.thingiverse.com/thing:295... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thank you for this awesome video. I am thinking of doing an upgrade so this video came out at the right time. It would be great if you can add a schematic of where everything goes (maybe a drawings or a clean photo of all the wires)
did you do a video on how you changed the fuses on the ramps board ? thanks
My mosfet seems to have blown as soon as I assembled this (heatbed heated, then nozzle went into meltdown). Soooo... I hoped replacing it was good, but now I get no heating on the extruder at all. :( Either the mosfets I got were slightly out of the original spec (I could not find exact replacements, so the ohms is slightly different)...
But, I'm not keep on the time needed to replace the whole board with a custom job. XD so might try just a part replacement (they sell the board, right?).
I have a ramps 1.4 I used on my i3 Rework I built and I had to swap out its onboard mosfet to an IRF and at 24v 10A it didn't even get warm. I would do the conversion on this X5S but the Ramps would need a LCD panel as I have fallen in love with the one in the X5S. I think the Ramps will work with it but they cheated us and did not put the sd card on the panel. You can see where it is supposed to go but they put it on the Melzi instead so ugh.
I'm thinking about getting one of these printers knowing full well that it will require some upgrades so thanks for doing these videos. For my particular needs, I'll be remote mounting all of the electronics because my intention is to fully enclose the print area in order to provide a heated environment for printing ABS. Either that or I'll sacrifice some Z printing height by putting a barrier between the electronics on the bottom and the bottom of the print table. I'm an EE so bring on the technical stuff, it enables me to better understand what you're trying to accomplish.
My current printer, an Creality Ender 3, is not so easy to enclose and the electronics gets quite warm whenever I print ABS because I put a plastic trash bag over the entire printer as a makeshift enclosure. The bed on this printer can reach a max of 104C (factory spec is 110C), but I think it can do better because the wires to the heater are getting warm which tells me there is some resistance losses going on.
For more on the wiring, check out this video on the X5S th-cam.com/video/8e-n9AX-3hI/w-d-xo.html
prety much anything that keeps the air still in the enclosure should work ok, being able to see in would be a bonus though, A bag as you described while working I feel is a bit too flammable and easy to melt, your idea of more permanent is better, I would suggest acrylic or something, perhaps at least 1/8 inch but even 1/4, this could be just ont he front with house style insulation with foil surface for the sides, this can be purchased from the local hardware store, also insulating the underside of the heat bed will help with bed temperatures, I found some pipe wrap foil that has potential to work well.
Awesome! I was just wondering how auto bed leveling would work on this printer since the hot-end doesn't move up and down? I'm really trying to learn, I feel like this particular printer has alot of potential though given its size and corexy format.
An interesting question... The bed would do all the up and down bit but you would need to rely on the fact that backlash is not a factor which with Gravity helping it should not be. he sensor will still detect any un even surface or out of plane errors and correct for them,
Strictly speaking this is not leveling as it wont actually level anything, it will compensate for uneven surfaces by mapping it and then adjusting for it.
What I am curious about is if the bed is "Wavy", will the top of the print also be wavy or is the "Bed Leveling" flattening out the first few layers in order to fix the upper ones? and if so... how. This is not dependent on the mechanics of the machine but on how the software is implemented
where did you get those blue parts for the stepper motors on the top (corners, x/y)? I have the X5SA version on the way but I am going to heat the bed with a 750 silicone heater and an SSR. Could you tell me a good source of silicone insulated wire? I am also going to redo all the wires as I think Chinese assembly is subpar. Seen several posts on FB about burnt wires.
Thanks!
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2815168, have fun, I did not print all these parts as you can see in the video
The original 12v heated bed can be converted to 24v?
Should i also change the 16AWG wire from AC to the PSU to AWG 12 or only the connection to the heatbed?
And do i need AWG 10 if I have a 24V 20A PSU?
The answer is "It Depends"
see this follow up video I created specifically to show wiring issues and some ways to resolve them th-cam.com/video/8e-n9AX-3hI/w-d-xo.html
What is the load?. To know the current that will flow, you need to know the load, even a 24V power supply that can deliver 1000A will not do so if the load is for example 1 Ohm, it would only deliver 24A (I = V/R ) which equates to 576W (Watts = V * A or I^2 * R )so 24*24. the mains side will only draw 2.4A if 240V supply or 5.24A if 110V supply both of which are easily handled with a 16AWG mains cable (Even allowing a little inefficiency with the power supply, it is still easily handled).
10AWG wire has a resistance of 1mOhm per foot, 12AWG is 1.5 mOhm, 14 is 2.5 mOhm and 16 is 4 mOhm (0.004 Ohms per foot), from this it is easy to calculate how much power is dissipated / Lost in your wiring and therefor not delivered to the heat bed
A couple questions:
As I understand it, the mosfet on the original board wasn't opening (or closing, whichever) completely, thus not allowing the full voltage through to the heat bed. Throw in too small of wires, and no insulation on the heat bed, resulted insufficient bed heat-ups, both in speed and top end temperature.
1. By adding the external mosfet, and still using the 12V power supply, insulating the bottom of the print bed, and putting in thicker wires, do you think that'd improve your heat bed warm up enough?
2. Could you post in the description (or reply) the various parts you swapped in?
correct, the typical mosfet used on these boards are not fully turned on till the gate is at about 10 - 12 V, trouble is on most boards, the gate only gets 3V3 or 5V at best, so when there turned on there is significant resistance across it and they get very hot, also it is full "Current" to the heat bed, if the bed did not try to draw current then the full voltage would reach it, but now im getting too technical..... sorry :)
Done... in the description
Did you ever have a look at the klipper firmware? It's an interesting concept at least.
no, but now im aware of it ill have a look
Hello Peter, what links did you put under the ramps board drive chips?
all links are installed
Hi, thank for your videos. I have Tronxy X5S and i want to update main board to MKS Gen v1.4. 32 bit. Can you help me a little ?
p.s. How to set up marlin firmware for it ?
What do you need, if you want full 32 Bit then you may need to use Marlin 2.0 even though it is not released yet, it does work. what you will need to do is write down / record as many of the parameters of the original module so they can be transferred to the new board (Adjusting for changes in code of course, , My Github links have the configuration files already there so you could base the new build from them.
I will be doing a new upgrade video soon and will try to include an MKSGen 1.4 or similar so it should help you if your able to wait a little while.
Thanks )))) I'm almost finish it ))) 3 day to figure how to do it. I can sent you a description with photos and firmware - and you can use it in your video if you want )))
Would I need to upgrade my hotend to a 24v one?
If you are upgrading the heated bed to 24V then it is an option, but as the hot end is nowhere near the power draw of the heat bed, you could leave it with the 12V that the rest of the controller and steppers are using without an issue
Tronxy used steel core belts from what I researched, so stretching wouldn't be much of an issue
yes, the ones I have are steel core, I think I included a close up in the video
@@TheBreadboardca mine shipped with fiber belts
maybe you can help i just got an x5s i got it set up and got it running with some help from a friend who knows repetier hos away from it ever day but i tuned the motors the other day to fix the diagonal layer shift and it worked now the problem is my LCD screen is solid blue and i cant do anything with my printer atm it will not connect to my computer or repetier host it wont move or do anything please help i have been working on this for 6 days straight please help
Hi there
Moving the motors while connected to the controller can cause back emf to feed into the computer and in some cases break things, I always only move them slowly and even then im a little tense while I do it, so it is possible you fried something on the controller.
If things are somewhat working you should be able to get some response from the firmware through the USB port to the PC when it powers up, if you get nothing there and nothing else was changed from it working till now except you moving motors then you may have got unlucky and damaged the controller. If you dont have the skills to diagnose the ATMEGA1284 controller and other parts of the board then it may be simpler to swap out the controller for a new one, or do the same upgrade as I did and put in a RAMPS 1.4 board.
Without being able to get hands onto the board it is tough to speculate exactly what may have died. one thing you could check if you have a meter and are comfortable using it is the fuses and also the 5V supply on the board.
Well the board is shot and I need to get a new board just upgrade it while I can mks maybe I have no clue what I'm looking for or even at how do I program a board?
@@Stakespecialty I will be recording upgrade videos to Marlin 1,1,9 real soon and so that should help there. Yes you could go MKS or even the defacto standard Ramps 1.4. I would look for a board that has or can support trinamics drivers, these will solve a lot of problems like salmon skin and other artifacts common in 3D printing, run quieter and even possibly eliminate the need for mechanical end stops (Depends on the trinamics drivers you use, Prusa does it this way now). If you want to go 32bit, make sure you have a board that is already tested with Marlin 2,0. I have a couple of MKS boards here that seem to work ok, I have not installed them on a printer yet though.
@@TheBreadboardca thank you for the info I just. Ordered a mks gen 1.4 and a new lcd screen I will let youknow if I can get it back up and running
The smaller one was a 12v right? Do you have a link for it?
That is correct. A simple 12V 5A module I had for a couple of years already and can't remember were it came from. m.gearbest.com/led-accessories/pp_1597647.html
@@TheBreadboardca when changing the bed to 24v did you resolder the connection on the underside of the bed?
@@headfog7621 I did indeed. But you need a good powerful iron to do it
I love the EE content. I fear that young people don’t get it. Throw a few screen shots with - oh my God - Ohm’s law or something.
Put a 30 second intro that connects each video.
Add actual teaching so new comers will get it.