Tronxy X5S 3D Printer Review - Kinda - Chris's Basement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2024
- We take a look at the Tronxy X5S after much testing. It didn't go so well.
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Tronxy have updated the printer a lot in the last 2 years.
Here's some of the charges.
(Over all its now a pretty decent printer)
The play in the gantry is mitigated by simply tensioning it while it's pushed to one end.
Also the acrylic motor mounts are now metal.
The layout of the belts is now more clearly shown in the updated manual.
They have also changed the mounts which hold the hotend rail.
The extruder and filament sensor have now been relocated to the right hand side of the printer.
Adjusting the wheels that run on the tracks is now easier.
All 3 fans are now a lot quieter, along with the motor drivers.
The bed is now glass
The firmware has also been updated.
The pids for the hotend come pre tuned.
Only briefly fluctuating + - 1c
That's great, thanks!
Always love the honesty you present with reviews man. Once upon a time I had considered this machine. Now I believe someone would be better off building a corexy from scratch than even trying to make this one good.
Thanks Rickie! I think you are right. Even starting from scratch, I think you would end up with a much better printer, for about the same money.
Yes building from scratch will be better cheaper, but for me i think the machine is a nice stepping stone before going all from scratch. Especily like i live where you need to wait atleast 3-6 weeks for every part that you forgot to order. My machine prints nicley now but there is not much left from the original machine that i orderd. mainboard replaced with ramps/klipper combo linear rails for x/y new pulleys some machined mounts etc
I always love to hear others point of view. I have heard your exact upgrade senario a few times in the comment already. Looks like a lot of others are getting good results after some upgrades. Thanks for the comment.
yeah but there is a huge list of uppgrades to get anywhere but some people seems to manage to get decent prints with few upgrades. I think thay have a huge problem with quality control and or different revisions of the printer you never know what will be in the box
@@andersstromqvist2211 Agreed, you never know what you're going to get.
Great review and interesting to see your issues. I have thought about this as a parts buy for a printer build.
Thanks James! If it was really close to what you needed, it might work out.
you've got a new subscriber, amazing work on your methods and explanations!
Thanks man, I appreciate it.
Glad I stumbled over your channel. great videos! Been searching for more detailed videos on the hobby for some time but TH-cam's algorithms are HORRIBLE. Recommendation from others seems the way to go, seen you do it too, so good on you. Anyways justed wanted to aplaude you on your channel, it's a real treasure trove!
Thanks! I appreciate you saying that. I try my best!
I really needed this kind of review. Love it, subscribed right away and tomorrow gonna check your other video's. Keep up the nice videos
Awesome! Thank you for the sub!
Excellent! We need more in depth, and insightful reviews like this of printers! There is a lot of junk out there, and not enough people calling it what it is.
Thanks Scott, yeah this one was a struggle at best.
My kit worked really well out of the box with no problems at all and it's still the same around 2000 print hours later
Nice! Good to hear you had luck.
Wow Chris. What a pain in the butt.
I missed the live build, so was so happy you did this follow up video.
I would love to play with a core XY with linear rails one day but it has to be low cost. And as we all know the words linear rails and low cost do not go together well.
Thank you for posting and great job on sharing the info !
I would like to have a core XY linear rail build be in my future as well. We have talked about building a rail core setup. That would be interesting. Thanks for watching!
Very nice! Always appreciate the honesty!
Thanks for watching!
I had not seen this video till now, I was checking out the printer online due to the price.
I thought to check out the reviews before I purchased it, Thank you for saving me some money!
Hey Sergio, yeah, skip this one for sure.
Thank you for your honesty!!!!
Thanks Rick! I got to call'em as I see'em. :)
Thanks Chris, I was on the fence between this and cr-10s. I am now definitely leaning towards the cr-10s. Although more expensive it seems to be the better printer.
You bet! Indeed the Creality stuff is way better.
You saved me again, was considering this but no more. Thank you
You bet man! This one was just to much work.
Your review helped me a lot... !!! Thank you very much,, i was about to buy this today, Intentionally searching reviews of this printer... You Saved my 400$ ... Thanks again Chris...
Great! Glad it was helpful.
this cost only 150 dollars in my country. where did you even try to buy this from?
@@paulodepablo3649 its here from aliexpress bit.ly/2I7Iub1 and Custom Duty Clearance is additional 30%
WOW! You almost lost an eye on that! Great video as always!
My life has reached a point where I really should just ware safety glasses nonstop.
Stylish AND practical!
Thank's for the review Chris. I was about to buy this 3D Printer because it was a box type 3d printer which I think is still superior in structure and stability vs a T Style or Prusa style 3d printers. Although, I wish they really fix the issue though.
Yeah, they really missed the mark on this one. I do want to build a hypercube. It's a good design.
I recommend to always keep an eye on the serial communication. It will tell you when there was a board reset. I also added some code in the "kill" procedure to get more diagnostics info when kill is called. This helped a lot to diagnose issues, like a broken heater wire (serialprintPGM(lcd_msg);). I added an nRF24L01 board so I can always monitor the serial communication wirelessly, works great!
Well that's a cool idea. I had it plugged into Octoprint, but the exception info it spit out wasn't very helpful.
@@ChrisRiley maybe you could make a howto on Ron's Killcode if you understood what he said. Cause I sure didn't, only that it sounds very useful for this kind of issue.
@@BeardedSkunk Yeah, we could probably do that. I will do some research.
Thanks Chris. I'll be interested to see my experience with one. I bought it at a deep discount last year - before my life took a U-turn. Mostly back on point now, so time to give it a shot. We'll see if I have a printer, a frame for a future project, or a just huge paperweight. LOL
Thanks for watching Ron! Best of luck on this one. There have been others comments with good luck, fingers crossed!
Thanks - I'll need it.
Nice, yeah, I’ve heard a lot of bad things about the tronxy x5s, first time I’ve ever seen acryllic snap like that, crazy, glad you got it working in the end
Thanks! Yeah when that snapped it was a big surprise to me. :) Thanks for watching!
I almost bought this machine. Glad I saw this before!
Thanks for watching!
I just ordered the tronxy x5sa-400. It’s a fully upgraded version with many of the main components updated like the belts, extruder, motor, pullies etc. I’ve seen many videos of people saying it sucks out of the box. But I also saw many videos of amazing results after upgrades. So it made sense to give it a shot. I’m no sure how updates they mainboard is, but if I run into in issues at a least I know that’s one thing to check.
Hi Chris, love your content and to be honest I’ve modified Marlin for my RAMPS 1.4 board through your videos...on my Tronxy X5SA :)
I had lots of different problems like you, but nearly all of them disappeared when I’ve installed a 12cm fan for the board. All the layer shifts stopped, as well as random reboots. You are right, I never used the shiny belts anyway. I had some spare rubber reinforces belts to use. I’ve modeled new XY carriage which uses 4 wheels, I’ve modeled another part cooling fan to blow right to the nozzle.
But everything changed when I changed the board and used TMC 2130 drives (clones) and RAMPS 1.4 setup. Layers are somewhat consistent (I’ve changed some of the washers too), the printer is reliable. I haven’t connected an LCD (basic RepRap SmartController), still using Cura or Pronterface for printing. But as of now, I am happy with the results.
Since I like CoreXY machines, I’d like to know other alternatives besides Tronxy. Especially with 400 and 500mm models for XY diameters, Tronxy is kind of appealing.
Again, love your contents. Thanks for everything.
Thanks! Great to hear you had some luck. I too am on the look out for other core xy machines. I hope to try some others out in 2019.
I'd love to see you do a review of the Pro. I'm looking at getting one and you're the best reviewer. Supposedly they've done a lot of fixes on the Pro, at least the 2020 version
Yeah, if they ever contact me, I will ask about it.
Thanks for this test Chris . Good to know that this is not for good 3d prints. I saw this Printer and tought, wow great print volume. This is a no go.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks
This printer is pretty good when put together properly. I get very good & reliable printing from mine since I tuned it. Issues I had -
Stepper drivers are set randomly, if you run it right out of the box you will have it missing steps or cooked drivers
The linear bearings and leadscrews on the Z-axis need to be well aligned.
Acceleration and jerk were set too high causing shifted layers
Motor drive of the Bowden extruder was not assembled properly
Pneumatic fittings for the Bowden extruder were cheap crap and slowly let the PTFE tube slip out. Replaced them
Update the firmware
Replaced 0.4 mm nozzle with 0.6 mm nozzle for larger prints otherwise they take forever.
Belt tension is a pain in the ass to get *just* right
Filament reel holder to replace the crappy bolt.
Sweet! Awesome to hear you had some luck with it. Nice list of mods for sure.
Hi Chris, this is my first time posting on your channel so I just want to begin by giving credit where it is due and letting you know that I think you do good work. The actual reason I'm posting though is because I own a Tronxy printer of a different model and I just wanted to briefly tell you about my experiences with. Specifically I own the Tronxy X3 printer. This is the first and only 3D printer that I own. I purchased that particular model because it was very inexpensive, costing me only $282.00 at the time. Since this was my first 3D printer I didn't have a frame of reference to compare my Tronxy X3 to and I had to build perspective over time as I researched and addressed the issues that I encountered. Fortunately I am an experienced tinkerer and I know my way around mechanics and electronics so I have been able to improve the printer over time and build it up to be something decent. At first the printer was a serious fire hazard. It had wiring that couldn't handle the wattage they were carrying, I had to add a couple of external transistors to drive the heating elements, and the Melzie 2.0 control board was in dire need of some active cooling. On top of that it also had some mechanical shortcomings. For instance, the build plate carriage was unstable as it was and required some modification. There have been plenty of other changes that I felt necessary as well but this will be a very long post if I talk about all of them. Long story short, I have almost completely re-engineered this printer at this point. The v-slot extrusion frame is pretty much all that remains of the original printer. I have replaced most of the electronic components and re-designed almost all of the brackets and fixtures. I hate to say it but given my experience with the X3, and now seeing your experience with the X5S, I'm feeling like Tronxy is a bit of a "minimum viable product" kind of company.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I agree with you, I have had a couple of Tronxy products now and they feel a little slapped together. The worst part it's usually small stuff that could have been fixed for probably the same cost or close to it. They are affordable, I give them that. They are also a challenge and some days a challenge can be fun, but probably not for everyone. :)
I have dealt with similar issues in my research. The problem ended up being too small of a power supply. It seems to be random because the coincidence of all components drawing power at the same time is not purely dependent upon the g-code commands and may also be influenced by component temperatures.
Examples:
Power is applied to heaters based on feedback from a temperature sensor and the controller's control scheme, not when a command is loaded from the g-code.
Component temperatures can affect power consumption (e.g. later in a print or if you just ran a print, the motors may be warm and consume a little more load).
Large models are more likely to contain movements that simultaneously draw maximum current on multiple motors.
This solution may still be worth checking when you take your DUET off this printer. Try hooking up a larger power supply to the old board.
You did great troubleshooting the problem. Good job getting passed a very annoying hiccup and thank you for sharing.
Interesting, that's something I really never considered on this one. I will give it a try when I get back around to it.
The issue is with the slicer settings specifically with certain models. I was having similar issues. I used the slicer that tronxy gives and haven't had any issues since. They give you repitier, but I used the other one that's on the SD card
I have never had any luck with the older slicer. It comes with a lot of printers.
Hey great review. I’ve had this machine now for about a year now. And I made a lot of upgrades. From the PSU to the frame to cooling. Today is the first time I played with the board software. I upgraded from 1.1.6 marlin to 1.1.9. The only reason I did this is my heat bed heats as I turn the power on and I can’t adjust it down or up. I even trued a separate PSU to run the bed through my mosfet and still nothing. I was wondering if you had some ideas for me thank you. Have a nice day
Thanks! It heats all the time, no matter what? That sounds like you have a bad mosfet.
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Thanks for watching!
Chris huge fan of your channel.. i have done lots of changes and tweaks you have recommended on all my prints and purchases.. and because of you i purchased the Mosquito Hot End .. Thank You for that review.. but i just wanted to ask if you're willing i can buy that printer from you im planning on changing everything on it but just wanted to see your opinion let me know thank you for all your videos
Thanks man! I am glad you like the channel. I am currently getting ready to change that printer into a hypercube. So stay tuned for that one.
What issues have you found using bearings as idler pulleys ? I made a dbot using the same idea and have never thought that would cause accuracy issues as it is only bending the belts around 90 degrees.
I don't think it is so much the bearings as it is the bolt they use as a shaft. With as tight as the belts need to be, the bolts flex just a little.
Nice review.
Thanks John!
Interesting. I am torn on getting the TronXY X5S. I want a decent size CoreXY printer and I don't mind upgrading it. I was planning on putting in the Duet Wifi anyways. Should I consider this printer if I am fine with having to upgrade it, or is there another CoreXY that is similar that I should look at instead?
I don't know about the newer versions of these, but I would still stay away from it. I am going to start building a hypercube soon. I would go that route if I were you.
You are someone who doesn't give up 😄
Oh man! I wanted to give up on it so many times. :)
Me who has never 3d printed ever.... And just bought this printer today.........
I chose hell as the entry into this endeavor 🤣
I have faith in you, you got this! :)
@@ChrisRiley Got it yesterday, Built it in about 4 hours.... Leveled, Z offset programmed..... Went to print. And its over extruding like a runaway train.... Get to go home today and learn how to program E steps.
Was pleased to see all of the acrylic was gone besides the filament sensor bracket which doesn't need to be metal.
Did install a z sync on first assembly. And went with out installing the pillow bearings at the top of the ball screws.
I have an X5S also, and I've done a lot of modification to get it to print decently. It still is not 100% consistent on the layer placement, but it is not too bad now. BUT, like you said it takes a lot of mods to even get decent quality out of it. I didn't run into the mainboard issue like you, but I did switch it out because the original main board is just too limited. I am considering doing a major overhaul and getting rid of the CoreXY configuration and making it a Cartesian setup, but instead of the bed moving Y, it will only move Z like it does and the head will move X and Y, like it currently does.
I hear ya, this printer has been a lot of work. I am thinking about turning mine into a hypercube setup. We will see if I get around to it. Thanks for watching!
I also own and use the x5s. It is heavily molded as well to get decent prints. Biggest improvement is redoing the belts and guides to actually be parallel instead of angled all over the place. Board works fine for me but I did add a mosfet and 24 psu for the heated bed
Thanks Chris! This review has had some interesting comments so far. Some luck, but mostly only with a lot of mods. Thanks for weighing in.
@@ChrisRiley of course. I would say this has good bones for the price but requires someone with time and expertise to make it worth it. In the end add $100 in some parts and some tinkering time to make this an excellent printer for the money but before that it's honestly junk.
Was going to buy the tronxy x5st 500 cause want a core XY printer with a very large bed about 500mm and I was planing on upgrading the board and a few other things but now I'm just thinking is it even worth it doing that or sourcing all the parts myself and build my own
Hey Paul, I think they have improved these over the years, but if it was me I think I would still stay away from it. Even as a donor kit there are probably others out there that would work better.
Hi Chris,
Do you know if they have watched this, listened to what you said and have actually upgraded and fixed all the problems with this thing yet...:)
All the best...
John...
I took a chance and ordered the upgraded version a week ago. It was on sale at $300 (36% off).
New model name: X5SA-24V
New belts, new belt pulleys, new motor mounts, new 24V PSU, upgraded and incapsulated motherboard and more.
These have all been issues mentioned and pointed out for upgrades in other reviews.
I highly doubt they watch my content. Maybe some of the bigger channels they do.
Very nice!
Chris one possible cause of problem COLD SOLDER joints can try a heat gun at med heat about 8" - 12" away just heating the board up a bit (not too hot) might cure the problem if not then I would say bad components on board
Thanks Rover, I could give it a try.
hmm....never thought of that...will still suck having to pull the dang board though
Might see if I can find a reflow oven
Do you have a video on that board you put together for that printer?
For the Duet? Here you go th-cam.com/video/6nqddfxHla0/w-d-xo.html
I guess the board doesn't have a cooling fan? and perhaps the stepper drivers were overheating? If it can print for almost 12 hours straight there is probably nothing wrong with the board itself... other than lack of cooling. Note how when you change the voltage it started failing in a different spot (you changed the load on the drivers). Even if it isn't the drivers directly if the board is getting hot it can cause the clock crystal on the board to get out of whack and potentially even quit working.... (less of an issue with MEMS oscillators) .
It comes with a cooling fan that I tried. I also set a box fan beside it to make sure it wasn't a cooling issue. Still no luck, this was a really strange issue.
I will gladly take that off of your hands and try my best with it!
You are third in line in the comments do far. LOL We will probably turn it into something else.
i didnt even try to connect the melzi board, went a head and connected a mks gen l with tmc2100 on it
Sweet! I really like the 2100's.
I just picked one of these up for $80, hoping i have better success than you seem to have had. It will probably either be a whole new machine or not a 3d printer when im done with it.
Nice! $80 is a great deal. Definitely more that $80 worth of good parts in the kit.
Do you still have this printer? It seems to have been upgraded now and I'm considering it or an flsun dual extruder cube printer
I still have some pieces of it, I have been parting it out slowly.
@@ChrisRiley why have you been parting it out? I have 2 ender 3s and think I might get this unless I can find a better one. Any ideas?
@@tcgtherapy6073 I parted mine out because it wasn't a very good printer and I got tired of messing with it. I will use it to makes other machines. This was an old model, they are probably a lot better now.
@@ChrisRiley Id hope so by now theyd be better. It is going to be on sale for black friday at like under 300. Flsun also has a cube style printer that seems comparable
Damn... i wish id seen your review before i bought my X5S 400 ...my heated bed is bent, the z axis stop is inaccurate , the belts dont stay tight, and iv had it for a year now and still cant get a good print wider than 150mm ...i hate this thing!
I've heard that a lot man, I had the same experience as you.
You got the old version 3 or 4 the v5 and v6 works great
Good to know, I hope others are having a lot better luck than I did. Thanks for watching!
so a cr10 would be a best budget option for a large scale 3d printer??? im new to the 3d printing universe. im looking into buying a 3d printer and i would like a good large scale 3d printer that can print at least 400x 400 x 400 plus for a low price if possible. i dont want to worry about not being able to print a larger part due to the printer size.. unless somebody can tell me any links to a large 3d printer build guide that i can build my on printer from scratch buy using power tools etc... i would rather try and build it from scratch to save money if there is a proper video out there. any help would be greatly greatly appreciated .
I am not really sure if building one that size would be any cheaper or not, but I can tell you the original CR10 is a great 300x300x400 for the money.
Even with those problems I think its still worth it... Mainboard can just be replaced with a ramps or similar, they are cheap enough... Seriously, with kits you do expect some problems but thats the fun of it too - to make it better and fix the little faults. Maybe in the back of your mind you were comparing it to a more expensive machine.
If you go by per cubic mm of build volume, there is probably still value here. I try to go by out of box experience. What would someone buying this printer have to go through. I agree with you, with these kits, a little tinkering is expected and I do find a lot of enjoyment in that aspect. It really comes down to how much tinkering and how much extra money are you going to have to spend to get a decent prints. The replacement part list on this one was just to high. It took it from tinkering, to almost rebuild. Thanks for the comment, I always like to hear other points of view.
Some kits are definitely better than others.
My first 3D printer was an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus and it was an absolute pleasure to build. It was the first time in a long time I'd seen a *color* printed manual and it was completely accurate. The parts for assemblies were broken up into numbered bags and each one had at least one spare nut and bolt. My only criticisms of the kit were the M2.5x12 bolts for fixing the end stop switches: they were really low quality metal and either should have been shorter (say M2.5x8) or they should have threaded the holes in the end stops as I kept stripping the hex holes out of them whilst trying to tighten them with the supplied allen keys.
From what I've been seeing in YT videos and reading in comments the Tronxy kits are a bit of a basket case. That said, I've been wanting a CoreXY printer for a while and have an X5S-2E enroute at the moment, so I might be punishing myself a bit over the Xmas break.
@@anthonyrich1592 Agreed, I really like that Anycubic kit, very well done for the money. Good luck on your core xy build, hopefully Tronxy has made lots of improvements since I built mine.
thx for your opinion :D i mount a e3d titan aero, bltouch, ramps, hotbed=24v now i need to make more rigid :P, almos 300€ more :P for the upgrade's
Thanks Mario, definitely could use a few more mods to iron it out. I am thinking about turning mine into a hypercube.
Oh by the way thank you for replying back to me. Many many thanks.
Sure!
Dude loved the video that was wicked :)
Ha! Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Chris Riley what would u say your favourite printer is to use ? :)
I really like the Prusa machines, they are just so easy. Mk2 is good, but the Mk3 is even better.
Chris Riley yeah I hear ya :) I was wanting the mk3 for a while here but I really want a big print bed what do you recommend? :)
@@theimike4360 For the money, I still think the original cr10 is the best bang for the buck. Add that second lead screw and it is rock solid.
What large form printer do you think is Better, for the price or a little more Less than $700
This is a really strange area for 3D printers, you have these sub $500 large volumes then the next level up for a large volume is over $1000. Still my favorite out of the bunch in the original CR10, add a second lead screw and it is super stable.
That a big 3d printer Chris
It's good size, just wish it printed better.
Any idea what is causing the board to stop...bad power? Bad board...is it the same as Anet A8 board?
Do a giveaway?
Just a bad board, a reflow would be interesting to try though.
I thought that too, so I trued a new one as I have 4 new ones just kicking around. That didn’t fix it either.
Wow, only other thing I can think of is there is a short on the board somewhere.
Hey could You share your configuration un your 3d software?
Hey, It's been a long time since I did this config, I have no clue where it might have gone to.
Actually, I quite enjoyed by Tronxy X5SA-build - Got the 400³-version at a decent price and pumped a variety of mods into it. Prints just fine now. However, I do see that, out of the box, especially the control-board is just garbage. Switched it out for a SKR-board, put a set of decent belts on and made sure they all run parallel. If you assume that it won't work properly out of the box and do enjoy a challenge, you can take this kit as a starting point to set up a printer that can punch well above it's weight-class. Be prepared to spend another 150-200€ on it, though.
Sounds like a fun project. Totally agree with you.
Sorry to hear about your bad luck, I had the same mounts but avoided the motors flying off! I have had this printer for 2 weeks and have had pretty good success from day 1. I am picking up a 6mm thick piece of glass I had a local shop cut me for $15 so I am looking forward to a more level surface, the flexible plastic build plate worked, but glass is far preferable. I ordered new belts but have not installed them yet, I have printed 5 things flawlessly without leveling at all, something impossible with my Anet until recently. Thank you for the info on your experiences, always good to share knowledge.
Awesome! I am glad to hear someone is having good luck with this printer!
@@ChrisRiley I stumbled across a X5S 'return' and got a deal, when it arrived all the hardware was new just the 2020/2040 parts had wear marks, after two days of cursing at TronXY since the X5S I had didn't match any on TH-cam I was stumped until I read a review that explained the instructions were on the thumb drive/SD in a directory. TronXY X5S Version 4 - All the belt guides were different/fixed and the Z motor mounts metal, X carriage 'sliders' were metal and they had upgraded the firmware to 1.7... Power supply is bigger, the head is different, has a heat shield on the heater block. I plan on replacing the cheap piece of crap controller, 128K memory! so 2014. And yes Gates 2GT belt replacement, seems it is a thing, my Pick and Place machine (from Turkey) came with junk no-name belts that were bumpy! The current price of $239 for a X5S to $279 for the X5SA and $312 X5SA Pro would make the Pro a deal but they still are using junk for the controller with 'custom' code, they don't understand 'Open Source' and how it is suppose to work.
@@airheadbit1984 Glad you got a good deal, I hope you can make something awesome with it.
I bought one of these for $400 about 5 years ago.. Never did finish putting it together because of all the bad things I've read about it. I'm basically just going to use the frame and steppers and modify nearly every else. I have a BIGTREETECH SKR V1.4 Turbo board I may put in it since the stock board is trash. lol
FrankenPrinter! I have several of those
Hi Chris, thanks for this nice and honest review again.
According to other sources, the printer shouldn't be that bad though, but seeing yours, ..., it's just another TronXY.
Is it possible that the board is overheating?
I had a similar issue with my Anet A8 twice, once with the original board and once with my RAMPS after I've moved the printer to the new spot.
BTW. I wouldn't trust a TronXY or Anet without upgrades printing stuff without me watching ;-)
Thanks man! I did my best to try to test for the board overheating. I had a 40mm fan over it, then I set a box fan in front to make sure it was getting enough air. I think it was just a bad kit all around.
Looks like it, there's always a bad kit out there. I really like that you retry again until you get it working.
In my case, the 40mm fan helped luckily.
Did you leave the printer print the large parts alone? Have you installed anything fire-preventive?
That's my largest problem currently, I just don't "feel confident" of letting my machines print alone.
I do leave the printers running over night, but usually not when I am away from the house. I don't have any fire prevention, but I do have 3 smoke alarms in the basement. I totally understand you not being confident in some of these printers. You never know what they might do.
You're right, you never know when the one screw holding everything together might come loose...
The only printer I trust more or less is much JGAurora A5 and my Anycubic Kossel, as they worked well without any real problems so far.
But, you can never be sure...
I have done some research about this topic but didn't find an ideal solution either... So, let's hope for the best!
Do you think that maybe the board was overheating?
I should have put that in the video. I had considered that. I put a 40mm fan over the top of it, then after that didn't help, I got out my big box fan just to make sure it was getting enough air. Unfortunately, no change. I think it's just a bad board.
Yes maybe your right. I’ll take it apart and sound it out on my scope and gen to see what I can find. Good call. Oh by the way here is a good one for you. I flashed my firmware. For the very first time have a lot of issues over the USB cable. So after 6 days of hell. I turned both files into .gcode and placed them on my Sd card and hit print in order. And bam it was flashed to 1.1.9 Marlin. Figure that one out?
??? Aaaaaa.....that is the strangest thing I have heard so far I think. You have stumped me.
Whoa, thanks for your review, man. I almost bought this crap.
Now im convinced building a large one from scratch is the way...
Glad I can help.
Can you give me your advice for an alternative COREXY printer this big?
I really can't, I think this is about the cheapest one out there. You might be able to scratch build one for a little more money.
@@ChrisRiley I decide to go for it and god help me with this one :) I really want to try this coreXY style
@@aspmos Good luck my friend. 😀
Chris Riley just bought the tronxy x5sa-400 it has most of the issues here fixed expect the acrylic motor mounts I just know the now they are thicker but now it has actual pulleys with teeth in them not just washer and bearing as idles pulleys anymore
@@nightmareinaction629 Good to hear they have solved a lot of these issues.
Ok so just to confirm. I downgraded 1.1.9 to 1.1.6 by the means of just my sd card only no cable. Created a gcode saved it and ran as a print. And bam done so it works great. I’ll make a short video to show you.
A video would be awesome!
Okay, where's a link to that dragon model?
Here you go. www.thingiverse.com/thing:246198
Printer needs some work but it is not nearly as bad as you describe. I had same issue with my cotrrol board but after 2 min of printing so gearbest refunded $35 right away. At which point I got replacement ramps compatible board for $20-ish, next day delivery.
Stepper drivers need to be adjusted, that's common knowledge, they have to put it into manual. And pair of motor mounts can be printed or purchased in thick steel for few dollars. My build platform was flat and I am still using original belt as it stretches less than many other cheapish belts.
Certainly not good for your first printer but considering you can get it for $220-240 this is very good start provided user is ok with doing some modding.
With few mods I was able to push it to 250 mm/s and 1500 acceleration with virtually no ringing - something that i3 stype printers can;t even dream of.
Glad it's working for you.
oh God! what a sorry ass kit this is! what kit do you recommend I buy?? I am back to the drawing board bc you really made my jaw drop pass the basement floor. Great review, sub'd
LOL, yeah, it was a struggle. Thanks for the Sub Rob! Do you need a large build volume? About what price point are you looking at?
Chris Riley it’s Rob. I need a similar size...300 to 400 all around. What do you recommend
@@HugDeeznueces Sorry Rob, typing to fast. I really like the original CR10, bang for the buck out of all the bigger machines I still think it's the best.
I'm willing to bet that you had way too much tension on that belt when that mount failed. The force required to make that motor fly like that would be much higher than what those belts should be tensioned at.
Yes, I was trying to level the X out, took it a little to far.
Tronxy x5s... Dragon Slayer mode engaged!
lol, indeed!
Airhead Bit
1 second ago
@Chris Riley I stumbled across a X5S 'return' and got a deal, when it arrived all the hardware was new just the 2020/2040 parts had wear marks, after two days of cursing at TronXY since the X5S I had didn't match any on TH-cam I was stumped until I read a review that explained the instructions were on the thumb drive/SD in a directory. TronXY X5S Version 4 - All the belt guides were different/fixed and the Z motor mounts metal, X carriage 'sliders' were metal and they had upgraded the firmware to 1.7... Power supply is bigger, the head is different, has a heat shield on the heater block. I plan on replacing the cheap piece of crap controller, 128K memory! so 2014. And yes Gates 2GT belt replacement, seems it is a thing, my Pick and Place machine (from Turkey) came with junk no-name belts that were bumpy! The current price of $239 for a X5S to $279 for the X5SA and $312 X5SA Pro would make the Pro a deal but they still are using junk for the controller with 'custom' code, they don't understand 'Open Source' and how it is suppose to work.
You are very brave. :) good luck with your build, I am sure you can turn it into something awesome.
I came to same conclusion, just a bit different issues.
The smooth rods are too short and alu extrusion are not milled properly, so they can never sit right or tight, and if you try you will bend those 2020s.
I had several crooked stepper motors.
Incorrect bed wiring
Too small gauge power wiring all around (they ran HOOOOOT)
Plastic bearing carriers for the bed, broke almost immediately. Fixed with proper metal carriers, bed still wobbly due to design issue (rods should at the very least be in the corners!).
Lead screws seems bent as well.
Z steppers are undersized and unable to keep up when weight on bed increases (weighting the bed down could in theory somewhat help with the wobbly issues).
Pulleys have very high tension, they will wear out fast, and then you need new pulleys. Causes high friction too.
I never got a single decent print out of the machine, and just lifted it to a shelf currently, haven't even bothered to disassemble it yet.
and the Tronxy community on top of that ... Yikes!
They **WILL** attack you in every single way they can think of if you dare to say this printer is just gaaaarbage.
Some other youtubers have had some issues due to this, and community trying to force them to change their review and opinion due to that ... I think one youtuber even gave in and re-reviewed it giving it better rating ?!?!?!
Such a sad thing, as this is one of the only CoreXY samples out there :(
@@skaltura Mine is on the shelf in the same state as yours it sounds like. As far as reviews, you got to call them as you see them. It didn't go well for me, sounds like that is the case for a lot of others. Thanks for the comments.
Either of you want to sell me your machines instead of them taking up space on your self's? Being a career machinist with a cnc mill in the garage. Id like to take a crack and fix the issues they have. I love the core xy design. Just cant see spending the $400 on something that needs this much work. But i also dont want to start from scratch. Thanks. Email z28camarochris@yahoo.com
I think I will save mine for parts.
@@What-is-thehandle Sorry, i probably live on the other side of the globe from you (scandinavia) so shipping would be killer.
This is like 250$ on Gearbest, but please oh please do not order it.
If you want challenge, checkout out Railcore 300ZLT and source all the parts yourself etc. and you will have a damn good machine at the end, not a hacked up together barely printing which winded up costing the same :)
Tronxy X5S was my first 3D printer - and still is. I bought it used and learned a lot in the meantime, discovered some errors and improved the printer. Now it runs very well.
CoreXY is a good concept because of the minimized moving masses, especially for speed, but the large design also requires a very stable frame.
Here are my experiences and improvements.
schubfach.de/tron/
The site is in German, but with this:
free-website-translation.com/
you can comfortably e.g. also read in English.
Nicely done! Glad you have done so well with it.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you! ;-)
You need to see the 1000x1000x1000 new tronxy printer also i have 1 of those i but for 100 and work fine the only problems is you will need to add heatsink on the steps motor
I'll have to look into it, thanks!
You could always send me the frame minus the mainboard.....I would give it a good home! I will pay shipping!
You were the second person to suggest that in the comments! LOL, I need to sort a few other projects out first, but I might take you up on that idea. This one might be a donor for another project coming up.
Holy crap, you have some serious patience man.. all those failed prints.. kudos I would have gone Office Space all over that junk : )
lol, oh I wanted to so bad!
That mainboard looks like my Anet A8's board and yup they kinda are low quality.
It's really close to an ANET board, maybe a little bit better, but not much.
I was thinking the samething when i saw it.
I have the same stop and reboot issue with my Anet A8....I wonder what the cause is...and mine stops at that about 20~mm height too
I even reflashed mine with stock Marlin 1.1.9
I don't know, just a bad component flaking out I guess. I would be curious if a re-flow helped at all.
Is belt no chain
It is all GT-2 belt.
Haha, honest review.. I regret this is the printer i bought, i like tinkering but this is just too much,
it would be long dead if i hadn't had a friend with anet a8 helping me out with printing replacements all the time..
using it I struggled with mine for a long time until the board fried just by plugging it to pc..
can't make up my mind if should i bring it back to life.. prob will, because i'm hard to give up.
I've got maybe 2 good prints out of it, most of the time i just looked for all the upgrades to print trying to make it better.
It was design flaw that bent 2020 "y" rails down in the middle making it impossible to level the bed, but still the bed is terrible and crooked.
I had to wait over 12min to hit 70*C bed temp, strengthen the frame in every corner for it to stay square, takes up half my desk and its impossible to build enclosure for..
I thought i was smart starting big.. but now i would trade it for prusa clone anyday.. i dont actually need that big printing bed (and big problems) and feelt stupid printing something small having to waste electricity for heating it whole
I know man, this one is such a trial. I know exactly how you feel about not giving up. I think mine is going to be a donor for a hyper cube build.
@Daniel Roberts What am I bid?! Seriously, it's not worth the shipping.
Wow...what a journey...unbelievable how bad the overall design is. You must have spend weeks and tons of filament to get it running. Admire that you didn't give up and finally made it printing. Now Troxy may use YOUR free hard work to make it working and sell it under another name :-)
Thanks Gussner, you are right, these videos are so much work and time. I feel like I owe an end result, but they are not always good or easy to come by.
If you want it..... send it to me! :P
Big fan btw.
Thanks! Ha! Shipping this thing anywhere, the cost would be way more than the printer is worth. Plus, I wouldn't do a mean thing like that to one of our community members. lol :)
LOL
Hey Chris. I would like to see if my bed leveling system will adapt to this or other CoreXY Machines. Would you PM me through my channel?
Also. I had the similar experience with a TRONXY X3S last year. Same thing, junk board....mine had a wandering z zero. Sounds nuts but replaced with a MKS GEN L and it's now kicking the but off my other CR10 printers with the same MKS board....pls get ahold of me.
Hey David, please feel free to send me an email. brotherchris81@gmail.com
I bought my x5sa 400 pro in 2022, never could get it to print correctly, z would never save. Bed level would always go out of whack, I asked for a firmware update, still didn't work, then it caught on fire.
I put it in my closet and I'll probably buy another 3D printer from a more reputable company.
Would you like to clear your closet out? lol I just want the rails and frame for my non Pro. I have changed out basically everything on mine at this point and haven't even printed anything on it.... I could have probably paid for everything to build a Voron Trident at this point lol
I hear you, the one I has was very frustrating.
Great review. Can see your angry face :-D.
It was slightly frustrating. ;)
LOL Chris I never seen you so upset over a printer...LOL I am so glad I did not buy that printer it was on my list ..not any more though
lol, yeah, this one almost got me....but I won in the end. :)
You tensioned it wrong. You. Want to run the belts and then seat it into the gear pulley. Then slide the motor into the pulley and you screw down the motor to the plate. With the amount of tension. You were trying to put on it, I could see it starting to skip steps
It's possible, I will be using the parts for another build.
OMG what a bad quality parts kit. But thanks to your tinkering qualities and not giving up you on it you are going way above what most of the others would you really proved that in the end it’s totally not worth it. 🙀
Thanks Cat! Probably not worth all the work and upgrades. A lot better kits out there.
:) Good or bad right? We can't just let things go. lol :)
you should take it to the gun range and shoot the crap out of it. 50 cal to start with :-D
Now there's an idea! That would make a good video.
I was going to do that with my Fabrikator Mini, but decided to give it to my father in law.....
LOL
Gung-Ho!
8:03 Dude! Haha
A 3d printer not even worth the parts is a PASS!
lol, agreed.
Boy, I wish i had seen this video before i bought the X5SA!! What a cluster!! Belts wouldn't line up, frame was skewed and needed corner supports to make it stay square, the auto level didn't work, main controller was also defective, the bed was and still is warped like a half moon!!
It strings and i will have to do a bunch of tuning to make it work even half as well as my JG Aurora A5 which at the moment beats the C&@P out of this thing!! I Completely agree - DON"T BUY TRONXY JUNK, took them 2 MONTHS to get me a new sensor for the auto levelling, PATHETIC!!
Dang!
Aren’t they all Far east 3-D printer manufacturers?
Not all. ;)
5 years later, the pro version has metal motor and idler mounts, proper pins for the pulleys, good endstops and a bunch of other upgrades....and is still hard to use. It has taken me hours, and is adequate but my $200 ARTILLERY SWX3 pro runs circles around it. It needs so many things to just be ok and it's unimaginable it will ever be good. Don't buy anything from Tronxy, ever.
Thanks for the update. I still have no interest in anything Tronxy after this.
@@ChrisRiley Me either. But, ya know, just for the record.
Long story short.........if you need a printer this big, or bigger, stick with Creality.
They are much better than this one for sure.
SuperXY V1.0 found on #Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:3928214
Awesome, thanks for the link.
Ifyou are going to scratch build a printer i would like to se a www.thingiverse.com/thing:2219915 build "kind of have to promote a ikea build as a swede =)"
That is really cool!
yeah kind of thinking of building for my self to have in the appartment since it is contained, and ilike the fact that you can print most of the parts
You cant make a good COREXY machine with this...not RIGID at all, may be a slow speed
Definitely didn't work out very well.
My DIY CoreXY is very very stiff if i compare .. but still got some issue again
I wonder if some corner triangles would help brace it
I think it would help for sure, getting the idlers mounted ridge would be the best place to start.
Ive had mine for over a year now, one of 7 printers. It is a piece of trash Not one good print in the year
Agreed, I never had any luck with it.