TronXY X5SA Upgrades (Frame, Bed, Linear Rail + Direct Drive, PSU, Electronics)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มิ.ย. 2024
- I'm reviewing the upgrades I've applied to my TronXY X5SA to-date. I've listed and timestamped the upgrades below along with the links to all of the printable items so feel free to pick-and-choose what interests you!
00:00 Intro
01:21 Corner Brackets/Reinforcement
02:32 Motor Mount/Pully Alignment Washers
04:56 Print Bed Surface
06:43 Bed Leveling Hats/Z-Sync Mod
09:25 Direct Drive Carriage + X-Axis Linear Rail
15:45 Meanwell PSU and SKR 1.4
19:25 Stallguard Comments
21:34 Marlin/Klipper on TronXY (Chitu) Board
23:27 Conclusions
Upgrade #1: 2020 Corner Brackets
The 2020 brackets I prefer to use are 40mm wide and use 4x m4 washers and T-nuts:
Brackets: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
M4 Bolts: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
M4 T-Slot Nuts: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
2040 to 2020 Bracket: www.thingiverse.com/thing:485...
Upgrade #2: Motor Mounts and Pully Washers
Motor Mounts and Washers: www.thingiverse.com/thing:479...
Upgrade #3: Bed Surface
GizmoDorks PEI Sheet: www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Sh...
Check local glass shops for 16" tempered or borosilicate glass at 3/16 thickness
Upgrade #4: Bed Leveling
Bed Leveling/Sync Tension Stepper Hats: www.thingiverse.com/thing:485...
Z-Sync Kit (AZ): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Z-Sync Kit (Ali): www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
GT-2 Pulleys: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Upgrade #5: Linear Rail and Direct Drive Extruder
Liner Rail: www.amazon.com/Twotrees-Slidi...
Under-Mounted Direct-Drive Extruder (does not require X-axis/pillow washers): www.thingiverse.com/thing:480...
Top-Mounted Direct-Drive Extruder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:485...
Upgrade #6: PSU and Mainboard
Meanwell PSU Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:485...
SKR 1.4 w/ tmc2209: www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Pr...
Cheap LCD: www.amazon.com/BIQU-Display-C...
Cases for SKR, Pi, and LCD: www.thingiverse.com/thing:485...
And here are the assorted tools and gadgets you see in the video: www.thingiverse.com/thing:485...
For the TronXY Chitu board:
Follow these instructions for installing Marlin: github.com/rhapsodyv/Configur...
Follow these instructions for installing Klipper: gist.github.com/cab404/b7bcbb...
EXCEPT - don't use the embedded update.cbd. Either check the comments for instructions on the make menuconfig and build yourself or use this one:
drive.google.com/file/d/1uC90...
For the SKR, there are plenty of instructions for both Marlin and Klipper so I won't repeat them here. I'm printing at 150mm/s at 3000mm/s2 accel for most moves and 1000mm/s2 for outer shell. Klipper's resonance compensation helped a little but I couldn't get anything out of pressure advance or corner smoothing that worked much better than un-tuned. YMMV. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thank you VERY much for putting in this work and documenting all of it so thoroughly! I'm getting ready to start my build and it's great to have these resources.
Glad it was helpful! Good luck with the build!
Just found your video this past week and wanted to thank you even though it's a bit delayed. Excellent plan and detailed explanation will help me turn my 2019 X5SA into a beast!
Glad it was helpful! Just posted a new one with even more dramatic upgrades. With a little work it really is a beast of a printer.
Thank You. Great video that answered lots of my questions about tronxy.
Glad I could help!
I wopud appreciate you making these videos. i am a todler in the 3d world and your willingness to make videos to teach anyone, anywhere is greatly appreciated especially for begginers. Thanks for all you do.
Thanks for the kind words Felix and welcome to the 3d Printing world! There's a lot to learn but it's soo much fun!
Thanks brother! This guide was very useful to start improving my Tronxy printer!
Glad it helped, Fiz! Good luck and have fun!
OMG thanks That z-Axis is was driving me nuts .Now ordered parts and learned more .
Awesome Accipiter! Z falling out of whack is definitely the biggest frustration with this printer.
Trank you VERY much for your Tips. I got a TronXY X5SA - 400 and with your help i could get ist running. I am running the stock Mainboard V6 with MARLIN 2.0 . It runs very well now.
Glad you found the video helpful! Marlin is the way to go - at least until/if your board dies. It seems like there are a lot of dead Chitu boards out there - but if you're running Marlin then at least the transition will be easy if you do ever have to jump.
Great video I just have ordered my tronxy XS5A dual extruder 300x300x400 to arrive soon I will use most of your mods Great stuff!!
Thanks a lot for sharing forward
greetings from Europe
Hey Eric! Thanks for watching and good luck with your X5SA. I posted a video after that with a new gantry and more linear rails. If you're upgrading may want to check that one out before you start swapping things out :) Have fun!
I'm a beginner in 3d printing and hobby electronics and it's inspiring to see you work through problems and improve upon the design of the printer. This printer doesn't seem like the best choice for a beginner but seeing all your changes makes me want to get one and tinker with it too!
Hey Ren, welcome to what will soon be your favorite hobby. If your primary goal of getting a 3D printer is to, you know, print things then the X5SA might not be the *best* intro to the hobby. However if you're getting into 3D printing because the tech is cool and you want to learn a lot about how everything works, spend time and money on upgrades and options, and are looking for a printer that can grow with you then the X5SA (on sale) may not be a bad option.
My first printer was a FolgerTech i3 kit. It was completely bare bones - basically as good as buying a bunch of parts from AliExpress. Sure, it took 12 hours to put together but I learned a LOT from that experience and it paid off in the long run.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans Thank you for such an in-depth reply! It feels very welcoming reading this.
Ideally, I would like something in-between the two. A printer that I can grow with and learn from, but something that can make somewhat functional prints (at least functional enough that I can print improvements for the printer). I'd like to get into learning robotics and I've seen that 3D printing can be used to make all sorts of cool robot design, gears, etc.
I was originally looking at the neptune 2s as it seem similar enough to an ender 3 v2 to support many of the same mods but comes with better build quality and upgrades out of the box. When I stumbled upon a core XY design though, I was just captivated by the looks. It seems like most printers of this design outside of the X5SA are really expensive but the stock X5SA is deemed as not a good printer. It looks like you have managed to make it a more than capable machine though. That's what I'm finding I really love about this community. So many people want to improve upon what they have. It just feels like such a welcoming change from other areas of tech, with products becoming increasingly harder to open up or repair.
I'm still not sure on what my choice will be for my first printer but I hope to get good enough at some point to design my own improvements like you have!
I came here to see what all I would potentially be getting myself into as I’m looking into picking up a Tronxy X5SA-600 for some automotive prototyping.
Awesome content and very good visual quality.
Your explanation of design intent of the printables and highlighting how the particular mods fix / correct the issues (or at least improve) how the Tronxy comes out of the box is very insightful.
I think your 5 min design videos would be very helpful especially w/ 3D printing becoming more and more mainstream.
P.S. love the pc component boxes in the background btw.
Thanks for watching, Michael! The X5SA is certainly a project printer but I'm not sure you have many other options at 600mm scale. The Folgertech FT-6 will get you 720mm on the X axis but a bit smaller on Y and Z. Personally I would jump on that over the X5SA if you're not afraid of a real barebones kit as it's certainly going to be more rigid - and I wouldn't expect much support from either company. At 600mm you're well past 'common' build sizes and finding things like heat bed replacements or PEI sheets and such will be challenging and expensive.
If you only need large scale in a single dimension the Creality 3D print mill is also an option.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans Don't mention it and anytime! I can't wait to see what you upload next! I'll have to look into the Folgertech!
awesome review, very informative , printer power loss is something i have not heard anyone mention. thank you
Thanks for watching! I personally don't use the power-loss stuff and this board failure was the first I've ever seen of it :) If you end up using it successfully I'd love to hear about it.
I just started seeing the same "power loss" or else a freeze as you described, X5SA Pro V6 board w/Marlin (6 months old). Like you did, I replaced the PS as well, the problem didn't go away but did start appearing at different times. I also re-formatted and re-sliced the print where I saw this issue, and that seemed to help (but why?) or else it just could be 100% random. You described it as getting progressively worse, so an SKR board might be in my future. Thanks for the video and detailed information! BTW, I have a MPMD and Chiron that are consistently printing in the background while the Tronxy is down for repair. Again.
Very nice setup!
Thanks!
Thank You very much! I found your video very interesting and well done.
Thanks Sauro! Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks your video helped a lot. We are going to build our printer today with your mods. Thanks
Hey Washou, how did it go?
Those corner brackets in my opinion are the most beneficial because from experience, my X5SA threw itself out of square from vibration of the machine alone. Obviously not by much but it was super evident though incremental layer shifts that stick out like a sore thumb on larger prints. Not to mention layer adhesion problems that you don't see until you take your print off the bed and it splits.
Agreed. Some kind of corner support is a must for this printer. If you can't afford or easily get these aluminum corners even a 3D printed bracket will do wonders.
Very detailed, and well laid out video!
Kudos!
You mentioned you really enjoyed making your 5 minute makes series, unfortunately to little fan fare.
Well, I'd be willing to bet a kings ransom your little series would find exponentially better viewership if you applied it to TH-cams new and both heavily pushed and metric biased "Shorts" segments!
I'm sure you can agree in recent months several smaller 3D print channels have found enormous success with an excellent adaptation of this Shorts [sub?] platform!!
Lastly:
I've got this year's Pro, and unfortunately, the X & Y stepper mounts are the last 2 of 4 acrylic pieces STILL shipping with this kit-ment-for-upgrading-outta-the-box printer, hehehe!
Cheers!
Hey Bo, thanks for the feedback! Like many I saw my (very modest) viewership fall by like half when they started pushing shorts. I hadn’t thought of using shorts for the quick designs but that is darn brilliant! I’m not a traffic chaser and have no delusions about this becoming more than a hobby but it feels good when people see and get value from the content.
If you need some printed motor mounts to get you through, let me know. :)
I got this x5sa back in 2017 when they first started coming out and knew they had the initiative to become a great printer, I think they have been bad mouthed enough. I have done so much I had it running great then upgraded to the double filament with the quiet motherboard now the other parts are just to weak to support the speeds and prints jobs, I think you've gotten it right, I need to get access to your design to move on I have the borosilicate glass the firmware upgrades you name it , I even see the corner brackets have increased to four bolts instead of two of course more stability I think I added the linear rails long before anyone else had because I worked on cad plotters and other equipment that used them before 3D printers had even arrived.
Hello Samuel. The rigidity and un-linked Z are the big problems with these printers and it's hard to recommend them to anyone who isn't planning on substantial upgrades. The VZBot folks are able to get incredible speeds out of the frame but with a good bit of skill and modification. It's definitely the fastest design I've seen in the basic X5SA cube.
great video thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great video. This makes me very hesitant of getting this printer but I have to get a large format 500x500 for my upcoming projects
Great video I am heading over to your Thingiverse page to get the hats with pulley since I added a belt system to my Z as well and look at the carriage. I just upgraded my x5sa-500 to pro mainly for the rails. The 500 had 20x40 for the v-slot wheels but they didn't drill holes for the pillow bearings so I was never able to use them. I pulled them out when I got pro kit to try using them then removed them when bed binded.
My X5SA-500 worked 'ok' with the pillow bearings but once removed I can see exactly how much bend there is in the rod. There's a good 1/2 of wobble when tramming near the bottom. That's just additional resistance and potential for Z-banding.
Id recommend adding some corner to corner 2020 extrusion too.
7:31 Instead of all that long process or more belts/parts. I only printed two clip that look like small flag. I level my bed once. Then, I clip each flag on each screw facing both in same position. When I power on/off the printer, if one flag is slightly off compared to the other one, I just have to move the lagging one and now I know the bed is still leveled. I've found the part on Thingiverse long time ago, for Aneth A8 or A6.
When I get this printer I'm moving the belts parallel with the x axis. More 3rd party mods are supported with it setup like that
one mod i havent seen anyone else do... use 4 smaller beds.
the pei beds are cheaper, one small one heats fast, and if half your prints are only less than 200x200...
for the pulley issue, i remade the brackets with the hole inboard a bit to bring the belt in line,
then made one pulley larger on each side otherwise the belt interferes with itself on the other side of the carriage...
Nice omen in the background. I have a heavily modified red 7 string
Wow, good eye! I mostly noodle on acoustics now-days but my wife got my the Omen back when we were dating so it'll never leave my collection :) What have you done to your seven string? I honestly didn't even know they made a 7 string Omen.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans locking tuners, gigantic emgs that have a humbucker on top of a single coil. They were red to match the guitar haha. They're that big I had to put my luthier hat on and carefully remove some of the wood and veneer then fabricate pickup springs with a screw. Strap locks as well and a bone nut. Haha
Thanks for the video and I would like the 5 minute videos that you were talking about
Good to know, Jay! Planning on putting some together soon.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans i was looking ant you motor mounts and i printed off 2 and on dont line up for the x axis need some help. I just need some help I just bought the same printer
Nice comment of you on Stallguard. I never liked this concepted as well. :)
I know, right? It would be one thing if you constructed some kind of stopper or landing pad to handle the crash but if you're going that far, might as well just stick a switch on it. I also think CoreXY is especially troublesome since cartesian axis-aligned movement requires both motors and depending on where the stall is occurring that might mean different resistance on the motors. I think that's why I was getting inconsistent results. Either way, pain > benefit.
Hello, very good video. Just a question about z synch. I understand 2 axes work independently to compensate bed plan default. Why to synchronise them?
For what it's worth, my X5SA-400 came with a two-part aluminum bed. I'm pretty happy with the black surface on it.
Hello Benjamin, would love to see a pic of the bed you received. When you say 'two-part' do you mean a full metal plate with an additional heater plate or sheet above it?
@@LilMikeysBigPlans Here's a decent photo. It's two aluminum plates. The bottom has a heater and the top has the surface attached. i.all3dp.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/08120514/Bildschirmfoto-2020-01-08-um-12.01.51-2-Kopie-e1578481566753.jpg
Been through the exact same journey with my 400 - including moving the motors and the front idlers to line things up. My board also died and I switched to SKR 1.4T. Discarded stallguard from the start but I went with dual z drivers and did away with the sync belt and use g34 instead.
I went ahead and set up dual-Z with z-tilt and I think I'm sold on that over the linked Z - at least with the lead screws directly on the motors. I figured z-tilt was going to be harder as there's not an abundance of documentation and real-world examples but it was pretty simple.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans You mean like described here ? wiki.layerfused.com/en/X301/contributions/dual-z-configuration
I'm running with one of these sync-kits right now, but still the bed is somewhat tilted.
@@WolframWebers Yep. I'm using klipper so the config is a bit different but the method is the same. I let my bed fall where wants after a print and then at the start of the print I run the tilt adjustment twice (unless your measurements are VERY exact the adjustments aren't perfect) and I'm within .05mm difference between left and right sides of the bed - which is probably bumping against the accuracy of the bltouch+stepper resolution+screw thread error.
Good Video. Thanks.
Where did you get the Camera Mount?
Hey Broken. It's not really a camera 'mount'. It's actually just the 2020 'handle' from this collection turned side-ways: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4852525/files. Plus some velcro straps of course.
Awesome video glad I found your channel. I'm about to purchase an X5SA Pro in a couple weeks as my first 3d printer. I love to tinker and upgrade so I know this isn't the best beginner's printer but I figure I'll jump right in the fire! I have a cnc that I've pretty much built from scratch so not a complete novice with all this.
Anyways just want to say thanks for all the info and the thingiverse parts ill definitely be utilizing alot of them!
Do you have any experience with adding a ball bearing between the z stepper motors and the z lead screws inside of the couplings?
Hello vjay. I'm sure you'll have fun with the TronXY. It's not the *best* beginner printer but it was better than the Folger kits - which were true 'box of parts' types of experiences and if you're already into CNC I'm sure you'll have no problems!
Not sure what you mean by putting a bearing in the coupling? Are you attempting to add a ball bearing inside of the coupling between where the motor shaft and leadscrew would meet? The coupling is a spring coupling to account for imperfect straightness/alignment of the lead screw so there is a little travel built-in. What would adding the bearing do?
@@LilMikeysBigPlans Thank you for the response. Yea the ball bearing would go between the lead screw and motor shaft in the coupling. Ive seen a few videos where people had issues with z banding and between adding the ball bearing and removing that lead screw holder at the top of the printer fixed it.
Here's a link to one of the videos Ive seen it in. He talks about it around the 7 minute mark.
th-cam.com/video/o2KBXoVfPdM/w-d-xo.html
Great video!!! I've had my tronxy x5sa 400 for a year now, and I have not done much modding to it, but I have run into one issue as of late that was not there before. Bed wabbles from front to back where the heating bed chain is pulling it down. Killing my level every time I start a print. Any thoughts? And good advice about the pillow bearings they are coming off today!
If there's wobble something has to be loose or worn - likely something attached to/around your guide rods. Does the wobble have a direction - ie: if you pull it front to back it's stable but if you pull it up or down it moves?
damn! how do you only have 408 subs? you are the only 3d print channel i have seen that is (A) giving useful detailed and objectively informed information. and (B) not just blatantly copying someone else's videos. well...409 subs now.
Thanks Acey! I'm guessing my low sub count is a mix of broad maker-y topics and a pretty lax upload schedule. It's very much a hobby for me so I'm not terribly worried about sub counts however it would be nice if the channel would at least pay for itself some day :)
Regardless, you keep watchin 'em, I'll keep makin 'em :)
Absolutely brilliant video and well presented! I’m trying to decide on getting this printer or go the way of building a Voron. Just one thing I was completely clear on: the top pillow washers can be just removed? Did you also do the “ball bearing trick” for the bottom of that rod? Did you consider the Voron head? I’ve head it’s possible to wrangle it on to the X5SA Pro.
Honestly you can get this to print just as good with some mods thatre printable
Vorons are awesome but I can't justify the price. I did look in to their carriage - the 'afterburner' or something like that. It looks cool bit it's kinda big/complex, designed for specific extruder hardware, uses inset nuts, and would still need to be modified to support the belt position of the TronXY.
You can buy the non-pro and turn it into a VZbot :P
genius!!
'I know you are but what am I' :)
Thanks for watching!
interesting video, I own a x5sa pro and I'm upgrading it. I installed klipper, changed the hotend for a hemera and I'm waiting for my 110v silicone bed. Might but a second one because they are dirt cheap and make mod it too.
You might want to take a new look at Klipper, the build is much more simpler now I think the printer.cfg file that comes in the examples tells you to choose the serial, and how to convert it. Most tutorial are good if you follow the guide + the instructions in the cfg file. Also, why didnt you install independent z axis with your skr 1.4?
Hello Yannick, sorry if it wasn't clear from the video but I'm running the latest klipper on the SKR. It's actually the klipper resonance test printing at 14:30.
As for dual-Z, I hadn't really considered it. I'm using the linked Z so I wouldn't be able to take advantage of tilt correction but I would love to see a printer.cfg with it enabled. I think that sensor config can be confusing.
Thanks for all the great information! Just one thing, the area behind the TronXY is so cluttered it's hard to pick out the actual components of the printer.
Great tip! Unfortunately my 'studio' is also my office and my shop but I'll at least try to frame future shots to minimize clutter.
Saving this video for later, got one of these printers coming. It's not my first or only printer.
Good luck! Feel free to shout if you have any questions.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans thanks I appreciate it.
I am upgrading to an e3d v6 hotend, have the parts,haven't installed. I find the stock one lacking. What board did you end up switching to when the stock failed?
@@bleach_drink_me SKR1.4 w/ TMC2209s. Couldn't find any way to use the stock LCD with it so if you're making the jump then plan for an LCD if you need one.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans thanks again. I don't plan to swap yet, I have only had the printer a week and am getting it dialed in decently. I am going to make a list from your video, so when things fail or I get the upgrade bug I know what I need 😆.
New to all this I found this for 195 so I ordered it but thinking I mies as well do the upgrades would you be interested in printing the brackets and cases you made
Hi LiMikeys...Is this 3d printer with the upgrades, worth buying for a print farm?
Holy fuck so you fixed everything hahaha never mind this product ain’t ready yet haha
It's a bag of parts that you can build a good printer from. You just have to continue building after the instructions end :)
Thanks for all the informative mods. How are the prints on a borosilicate glass with or without PEI compared to the stock aluminum/plastic bed? I mainly print PETG.
Hello Kevin, I have not printed directly on the aluminum (or with the bed sticker on the aluminum) so I can't comment directly on the flatness of the aluminum plate. I'm currently printing directly on glass (gluestick) on the TronXY and PETG on PEI on my 2nd printer and both work fine. I'm a huge fan on high quality PEI as it's zero maintenance. No glue sticks, no sprays - maybe sanding once every six months. However I just can't justify the $50 for a 400mm sheet while I haven't finished my linear rails or other mods :) PEI can actually be TOO adhesive with some materials and you might need to adjust temp to lower adhesion.
The only quality differences I can come up with between the PEI and glass is that PEI can either be smooth or textured and textured and that will reflect on the bottom texture and if you damage the PEI it'll show up on the bottom - which is why you may want to sand it occasionally. Glass will always be super smooth and flat - assuming you don't have dozens of layers of spray and glue.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans So my "blue" auto level sensor crapped out with less than 1 hour of use (I can see the burnt coils through the plastic). I left my X5SA pro in the shed for the last year so that probably why (LOL). I'm waiting for the "black" version and a textured glass bed to arrive this Monday. I'll keep you updated on how well it works. BTW, I'm converting it to a Voron while recycling whatever I can from the tronxy.
hey thank for the video, i'm trying use your designs on my x5sa 500 and im having an issue with the fan that mounts on the front of the stock hot end, i cant seem to find the model in either the over or under mounted thingivers files. am i missing something? thanks again
Hey Dark, unclear on what you're trying to do. Are you trying to use the stock hot-end on the under/over carriages or are you trying to use the fan mounts on the stock carriage? Unfortunately I didn't design anything for the stock carriage. That said, let me know what you're looking for and I can probably piece something together pretty quickly.
I swapped out the hotend with an ender 3 one and now it's not heating up fast enough. I think the heat sink is just more efficient at cooling, it has a lot more fins than the previous one. Is there some way to make it heat up faster? With the hotend fan on at 100% it gets to like 95c and with the fan off, it gets to like 155c.
i kind of want to get a broken one of these just to make a cool project from it
hi, do you have any tutorials for these upgrades because I have no idea what I'm doing
What do you make of the X5SA-2E model? Would love to hear your feedback on the changes by TronXY. I like the direct drive, but with 2 colors in 1 out now, I am unsure if I could still do direct drive.
As far as I can tell it's a non-pro with a 2nd extruder and a 2-in-1-out hot end so if you like the non-2e version the 2e is just about the same. Unfortunately they don't even solder on the final stepper on the non-2e model so if you want dual extrusion you would have to upgrade your mainboard. If you started with the standard model that would be $50 or so for a new board and stepper drivers, $15 for new stepper motor and $30 or so for a generic 2 in 1 out hotend. If you're spending more than that to get the 2e model then I'd skip it and DIY.
im planning to get the X5SA 400. do you recommend getting the Pro or just get the normal version and upgrade it?
It depends on how much effort you want to put into it. The Pro is a definitely a better printer out of the box but if you're planning on upgrading the rails and whatnot anyway then it's not worth the cost. That said, if you're looking for a printer that's great out of the box I'd maybe look at Creality's offerings first.
So when you swapped out the board for the v1.4 Turbo BTT, did that help with the Z axis in any way? In other words, is the control from the Z0 and Z1 drivers any better on the SKR board? Great guide by the way. I have the X5SA-2E and it has not printed well since day 1. Determined to get this working though!
Hey Jay, going from single-stepper Z to dual stepper Z with automatic tilt adjustment is a night-and-day difference in build platform maintenance. It will only help with your first layer though. So if your problem is the bed falling out of balance and having to tweak your bed screws every print then the upgrade would definitely help.
What issues are you having today?
@@LilMikeysBigPlans So I have had first layer issues with it just not wanting to stick to the glass bed (mine came with the Tronxy textured glass bed, much like the Creality one). It seems I am always messing around with Babystep Z settings at the initial print. Originally, the software in the printer wasn't taking my Z offset setting (no confirmation and no change in print height), so I contacted Tronxy and they sent me new firmware to flash which is now verifying the setting, but I am still having issues (may be the knockoff V6 hotend they included, so been thinking about upgrading that too). I bought the kit to tie the two Z rods together with the pulleys and have printed out your hats, but have not installed them just yet. I also upgraded my Bowden tubing to Capricorn recently. I ended up picking up the SKR V1.4 board from Binq and have considered changing the board out. I currently have the 446 mainboard that came with the printer.
I have also tried hairspray, glue sticks, blue tape, etc...Now my Pyramid A1 (CR10S knockoff) has the same textured glass bed and I still have to use a scraper to remove the print after the bed has cooled to room temperature!
I have an SKR 1.4 with TMC2209 in an old Wanhao i3 v1.2 with "many" upgrades. Overkill probably, but at the time, the Melzi was garbage with 4888's. Buying a 400 as an intermediate step to the big boi, a modified LowriderCNC router that will also laser cut with the 60W CO2 tube I have, and be able to 3D print 8-10 inches high by 4x8 feet! Crazy? maybe.
Hey Michael, I'm getting ready to step into CNC now myself. I'm looking for something smaller than the lowrider with hopes to do a little aluminum. Thinking something like the Root or RS-CNC32 then maybe a low rider or Plastic Monstrosity down the road. I see you're doing some PCB work on your channel. Would love to see the LowRider in action!
Does the stock board only have a single z stepper output? or is g34 stepper align possible? trying to figure out what mainboard to upgrade to for that reason since im debating on this or the twotrees sp-5
My stock board only had exactly enough drivers for the parts that were attached. There was additional space on the board for a stepper labeled for a second extruder but the pin header wasn't even soldered on. I'm using an SKR 1.4 Turbo on mine now with an Octopus waiting in the wings for a triple-Z project I'm working on :)
I just read your Modification review, very well explained in detail thanks. I am in the process of ordering a "Tronxy-X5SA-600-Large-3D-Printer-Direct-Drive-3D-Printer-600-600-600mm" and because it is very new there are no reviews on this larger printer yet. Any thoughts or guidance appreciated thanks again.
I have the x5sa-500 and love it. I would be interested to hear your thoughts on the 600... not that I want to upgrade again I just this week went from base model to Pro and still need some extra mods.
Hey Cy. I've obviously never seen one in person but looking at the pics I'm a bit on the fence. 600mm is really big and the external dimensions of this printer are in the 1100mm ballpark. While they added some bottom bracing I wouldn't be surprised if there was a good bit a play in the frame. They did use the pro-style rails for the carriage as well as the bed which is nice but they appear to be running on something smaller than 2020. In short, it's a REALLY big printer and I would've suspected more substantial materials to account. Something like the Folgertech FT-6 uses a lot of 4020 and has mid-bracing. If I was getting one, I'd probably plan on at least adding mid-bracing on the horizontal axes.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans Hi, thanks for your thoughts, In fact I bought one and am trying to fix some of the problems IE Z2 NOT quite in Synch with Z1 it falls behind. I might have to use your fix for it adding a belt.
Actually, the biggest problem seems to be using jus 2 motors and lead screws for such a big hot pate Vs. 4! It is very difficult if at all possible to get the 4x4 auto leveling matrix with each cell below 0.5mm! I printed a 20x20x20 test cube the X & Y were close enough but the Z was 1mm off. Any suggestions please? What do you think of adding 2 motors and lead screws to Z? Thanks.
The TronXY X5SA Pro is on sale right now for $215 shipped
That's a deal! Probably won't last too long either.
I was actually just looking at solutions for #4
I was wondering how this works, I am using the supplied like... plastic glass that comes with the printer and its a tiny bit warped. I was wondering if the solution to #4 causes the motors that micro-step to adjust for the auto-leveled points to mess up when linked together? I assume so because it can't really micro step the right motor if the left motor is following in suit
Hey Justin. Out of the box the X5SA uses a single stepper for both Z motors so there is no automatic tilt adjustment unless you upgrade. If your left and right motors fall out of sync just a little bit then mesh bed levelling may be able to compensate but if it's more than a couple mm you'll need to manually re-sync the motors. That's where these solutions come in.
If you're using the hats, when you drive the bed onto the hats you are guaranteed the bed is level. You can either disengage the steppers and manually press the bed onto the hats or drive them onto the hats and let the steppers skip until both are resting on the hat.
If you're using the linked-Z cable with the tensioner you don't have to worry about relative leveling as the tensioned cables will keep them aligned within a step. Just make sure the bed is level before you tighten down the timing gears :) Without the tensioner they can slip a step or two at least on my 1210mm cable loop.
Currently I'm running a second Z stepper and using klipper's tilt adjustment which has been working well but needed to be tweaked quite a bit to get it to make accurate adjustments and the bed will still fall to the base once the steppers are disengaged so it's a bit of a mixed bag. I'm still using hats to keep the bed from hitting and damaging the spring couplers when it falls to the bottom.
Regardless of which solution you end up with to keep your Z motors synced up I am personally not a fan of mesh bed compensation for a few reasons. 1. It adds another axis in motion while the extruder is extruding 2. you are greatly increasing the chance of getting an errant reading since you're hitting 9-16 spots on the bed instead of one (or two if tilt-adjusting) and 3. your mesh will get all wonky if you don't clip or stick the plate on in exactly the same spot so I ended up having to re-mesh all the time which exacerbates 2. I prefer to stick with a known flat surface and skipping mesh even if it means adding a sheet of glass or replacing your surface more often. I'm sure many others feel differently though as mesh compensation seems to be very popular.
Where can I get more powerful z stepper motor?
Hey, could you share the link to the fans that you used for the left and right bmg blower? you mentioned that they were 20mm wide, but I am only finding 50mmx15mm wide winsinn fans.
Hey Spipe, you are correct. I misstated and the fans are 50x15. Here's the ones I'm using: amzn.to/3Z2eEJn although I wouldn't necessarily recommend them as they are loud as heck.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans Thanks so much for the reply! One last question, how did you add an extra fan? At least on my Tronxy, I only have 2 2pin connectors.
I have to ask - I don't have the 400, but the x5sa 330x330 build - - would all your mods work on it?? Looks like it - and on the linear rails - did you have a link to the washers you used to drop the extrusion? Thank you.
Hey Phil. Ya, I think everything should work on the standard version. The washers for the rail are 'X-Axis_Extrusion_Spacer_M4' or M5 (depending on which screws/T-nuts you have) on the carriage's thingiverse page: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4852310/files.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans Hey - I like your mods. Was wondering if you ever did linear rail on the Y - and wondered why you didn't with the x rail... was there a reason ? Would I notice the difference?
What would you recommend our of the box mod wise? I'm trying to build a solid coreXY duel extrusion printer. I already planned on the bracing, but want to know what else.
Hello Sabi. Are you starting with one of the dual extrusion X5SA models? If so then the recommendations are pretty much the first four from this video: corner bracing, motor mounts and pully spacers, a decent bed surface, and linked-Z or the Z hats. On the other hand, if your plan is to get a base X5SA and upgrade to a nicer dual extruder setup, keep in mind that the non-2E models don't come with the stepper driver for a second extruder. The plug is there but there's literally a blank space where they would've soldered the second extruder driver. If you're upgrading from a base model you'll need new electronics as well.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans I'm considering the X5sa 400 pro, since most of the hardware needs replaced for 2 color, as well as having to come up with my own hot end setup since it seams options are either shoddy or very expensive.
Please bring back "Five Minute Designs:!
Hah. So you’re the one guy that watched them? I’ll put together something soon.
The Linear Rails for the 500 on X axis should be 600mm? and the 2020v extrusions for X replacement should be 650mm?
Unfortunately I don't have a 500 so can't say for sure. There's a bit of leeway in the rail length so if you just measure the distance between the edges of the Y carriages and get the closest length that's less than that measure and you should be good to go.
This mod uses the X extrusion that came with the printer, no need to buy another. If you want to replace both the X and Y rails I have a newer video here: th-cam.com/video/MubTYY0M-PE/w-d-xo.html. That one also uses the existing X extrusion though.
I am not even sure how #4 works, but on my X5S I use one motor with a 3:1 gear system so they never ever go out of sync since the two leadscrews are being driven by one motor. 3:1 it doesn't even want to move with a thick piece of boro glass which even on the 400 sq mm version would be fine as well.
I saw some single-motor mods on Thingiverse. Which are you using? My issue with most of those mods is that the way the motors are mounted the belting is way off the bottom of the printer. Would love to see how yours looks.
I started on a mod to relocate the motors and rigidly mount the threaded rods to the frame but would need to replace the rods with longer ones and never got around to it. Now I'm using independent Z leveling and ignoring sync altogether.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans I am unsure of the dimensions of the X5SA vs my X5S, but I will say the single belt with one motor worked the best of any mod I did. I used a 32t pulley on both threaded rods and a 16t on the motor. The belt I purchased did not allow me to mount the motor directly in the middle, but did not matter (gt2 I purchased was 1 size too small). I made my own system where the height of where the pulleys are is exactly where they would have been if on the motor. What I did was take those captive Z rod bearing blocks that it came with, and instead of throwing them away I used them to hold the rod to the 3d printed block. At first, I used PETG, but that was too flexible, so I replaced them with PLA, and they work so much better. Years now I have been using them. In all honesty there is nothing left on this printer original except the screen. Even the acme rods had to be replaced with slightly longer ones where I went to T8x2 so every full revolution is 2mm instead of 8, That meant that with the 2:1 gear ratio plus this I have perfect layers of any layer height (the maths) at the cost of being 8 times slower for Z movement. Hence, the 3mm/s vs 24mm/s of the original.
Id say you're better off upgrading the motherboard to something like SKR 1.4 turbo then instead of needing a belt to sync the motors your can use the new feature in marling to level the gantry.
Agreed, and that's the setup I'm running now, but that's new board, additional stepper driver, and more firmware setup. The sync belt works with any setup.
Very good work here but I got say it does not look as this printer is a good option despite the great initial price, or do I miss something? ;-) Cheers.
Hello Luis. I'd say it's a poor value at MSRP but can be a deal on sale. You can make it a 'good' printer with just a couple of these mods. Make the frame rigid and do something to address the Z-sync issues and it prints great. If you get a really good deal on the printer, as I did, you can pay quite a bit less than the parts would cost separately. However it seems like there are a lot of QA issues so if your board dies - which seems to be pretty common - then you're probably not saving a lot especially if you're not well-versed in debugging and adjusting your printer. I would not and do not suggest this printer to anyone that is new to the hobby.
Quick suggestion,
You should probably turn off sharpening in your cameras settings.
Thanks Ludo, will keep in mind for future videos.
What kind direct drive are you using?
It's a BMG clone + V6 clone on the carriage linked in the video description.
What would be a better, affordable ore XY printer to buy that wouldn't need these mods?
There aren't a ton of CoreXYs out there. If I wanted something more solid out of the box I'd probably suggest the Ender 6. Not that I have any experience with it, just believe in the brand. If you don't need CoreXY, just want a larger format cube printer the Ender 5 also looks to be pretty nice.
What Firmware are you using, i upgrade to marlin, and im havine homeing issues...
I'm using klipper on both of my cube printers and Marlin on my i3 style printer - although none of them resemble a stock X5SA any longer. What issues are you having?
@@LilMikeysBigPlans I have to raise the build plate all the way to the z0 before I can home...so for example I finish a print. And I hit home the 10point fade height drops..then homes x then y...I would it expect it to go up to find the probe...in my case it just keeps going lower. Towards max. z as opposed to z min. I'm on marlin...I'm using your z hats really did does help in leveling the bed
All I know is my Tronxy X5SA won't even do auto leveling or even work doing manual leveling!
I have the normal printer no mods I did buy a Tronxy Titan Extruder because the company told me it was needed for better control of any Flexible Filaments and the PET-G etc.
I also brought a Tronxy new Ultra-Flex Magnetic bed sheet,
the only problem I got with the magnetic bed sheet is when the bed temperature got up to 75 to 80 C the edges would all curl up
so I had the use the original small spring clips to keep down those edges.
As for the leveling being such a huge bed and the fact there is 6 screws to adjust instead of the normal 4 makes leveling a nightmare.
I once pend 3 hours doing around 40 auto leveling programs and adjusting those 6 screws and still it would not level?
Every time I get it where it looked good level wise the head would go from the start corner to start printing and I have to stop the printing because the nozzle would be either 6 mm too high of the bed even though I leveled it as good as possible or it be too close to the bed by 2 mm all at random no two times the same.
I can't afford to pay out for all the better parts and electronic boards etc. so the printer just sits un-used under a cover.
I after ages managed to save up and bought a Voxelab Aquila ( sub company of Flashforge I found out ) it is a clone of the printer I was going to get the Ender 3 V2.
I got the Aquila as it saved me £57 on the price of the Ender 3 V2 on Amazon UK.
it was a smaller bed with 4 screws and a U frame and worked fine and only took 40 minutes to build as it was 60% pre-build.
Unlike the Tronxy X5SA which took 4 days to do ( my 1st ever 3D printer with bad paper manual ) my printer was the newer 2020 updated model the paper manual I found out was for the 2019 model so those new upgrades in the design made it very hard to build it. I found out later I could have used the PDF manual on the card as that was up to date.
Now the Aquila has gone down on me, had a thermal Runaway Event on the hot end.
I changed the heater and the thermistor but the temperature went ll over the place on the hot end
Then found out that if you replace the hot end parts you have to do a PID tuning to lock down the hot end temperature,
So tried that each time using PC and a USB C cable and a program called
Pronterface, But each time the hot end heater would shoot up like mad up to 250 C and the pronterface would say error temperature too high test failed?
Sofar Flashforge has sent me a new main board and I had to pay out for more heating cartridges and thermistors ( changed them in hot end now 2 times )
I now trying to sort out why the hot end keeps shooting fast up to 250 C? the bed of course is fine since I not changed it's heating or thermistor.
So two 3D printers Tronxy X5SA can't level it, the Aquila can't tune the hot end. What a huge pain.
And with limited money now I can't even upgrade either or fix either.
Makes my wish I never took up the hobby?
Man, it sounds like you have had quite a few headaches. If I were in your shoes I would step back and simplify. Get yourself a glass sheet for the bed. You know it'll be flat and it won't have any weird curling or adhesion issues. Then I would replace whatever sensor TronXY gave you with a mechanical endstop switch. You might have to jury-rig or print some kind of mount for it but, in all honestly, apart from Piezo and BLTouch any other sensor is just not reliable or accurate enough to waste time with. If memory serves you can plug in the end stop switch where the blue/black sensor is connected now. Then, don't mess with any kind of mesh leveling or level programs, just level the thing by hand. Assuming you use the 'stepper hat' trick you should be good for bed leveling on the TronXY.
I'm not familiar with the Aquila but it may just be a simple case of having your max temp set lower than what your PID tuning to. If your max temp is 245 and you PID tune at 250 you're going to trigger a shutdown. If you think your hot end is heating too fast (it takes mine ~1:20 to get to 235) then it would likely either be the wrong thermistor in the firmware (or bad thermistor but that's usually a more obvious failure) or you're using a 12v core on a 24v printer.
It's too late now, but I suggest most people start with a smaller, simple i3 style machine with decent quality control - like an Ender 3 - as these things get very complex and very frustrating real quick.
Thank you for your video, I looking to purchase new printer, do you recommend this printer with all of the cost for upgrading and price for printer?
Well, it depends on what kind of deal you can get on it. I got my X5SA-400 for $290. At that price it's an absolute steal. It's currently $400+ which is a bit of a stretch. I think it's still the cheapest large volume CoreXY but if you don't need the huge build volume then something like an Ender 5 will probably be have better QA out of the box and fewer issues in general. On the other hand, if you're looking for a kit to build on and plan to do a bunch of upgrades anyway then, ya, it's a great starting spot.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans well I looking for something I can print ASA with at list 300mm bed size, also cheap price, I living in UK and find X5SA 330mm FOR £190 and pro one for £260 BUT ENDER 5 PLUS IS £450
Ya, the TronXY sounds like the way to go for you especially at those prices. I’ve not printed with asa but I hear that it’s a lot like abs in that it warps quite a bit. I managed to have some success on my ft-5 with abs using a very hot bed and an enclosure but it’s too big of a pita for me in general.
The X5SA bed will likely not get to the temps you need so factor in a good silicon heater kit and build surface. Enclosing a printer of this size will also be a challenge if you have to go that far.
I have the X5SA-500mm. I won't say it is a "great" printer, but it is an excellent starting bed.
I was working on a series of mods very similar to the ones listed here, except that since I also have a machine shop, much of the critical tension parts are in aluminum. I decided to buy a RatRig, so I am not sure what I will do with the Tronxy.
A few points, I printed all my RatRig parts in ABS using draft shield in Cura with very good results. I had no issues reaching 100C bed temps. I also purchased a borosilicate glass bed, and a FYSETC magnetic PEI sheet. I attached the magnet to the glass so I could have a perfectly flat base. The glass is affixed to the heated bed with two pieces of Kapton tape - I do not recommend use clips to attach the bed as in the video. The heated bed is not flat, and it will stress the glass.
Out of the box, it will print as well as any of the other cheap printers. Find one of the build video where the creator did a competent job (so do NOT follow the Teaching Tech vid - he bungled it horribly). Getting is square is critical. For another $200.00 it will print better than any of the modified cheap printers. I recommend a Volcano, a direct drive, and Klipper. If your budget exceeds $600.00, I recommend just taking the plunge and going for the RatRig. It costs the same as a Voron, but is not insanely over-complicated and at least twice as rigid.
You should never throw those bearings away brother you could use them for other projects.
Got a deal on one of these or ordered anyway would you be interested in printing your brackets for the upgrade
Hey Rynos, with a couple upgrades and a little elbow grease it can be a great printer! Unfortunately I'm usually prototyping or experimenting with my printers so I tend away from print-farming parts for others. However, you should be able to print all of the upgrades even on a barely-functional X5SA :) Otherwise I would suggest checking for local printers or r/3Dprintmything on reddit. If you absolutely cannot find someone to print them for you though, let me know and I'm sure we can figure something out.
Also, many libraries now have 3D printers. You can just send your files online to the library and choose print quality and color of filament and you pay for the materials used.
hi whats the lenght of linear rail for x5sa pro and what type?mgn 9c or h?
Hey Mohan. The length of the rail will depend on which X5SA model you bought. Your best bet would be to measure the distance between the y gantry plates and get the longest rail that would fit. You'll want the MGH12-H version for this mod.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans thanks
Do you have any guide for installing a skr 1.4 turbo on a tronxy x5sa by the way?
@@mohankuru7760 I don't have a guide but the installation is pretty straightforward IIRC. I believe you'll have to toss the LCD. If you're using klipper there's a sample config for the SKR1.4.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans I have a problem with pin mappings, also x5sa pro has 2 z axis motors, should I split one stepper driver into 2 motors or e1 as a seperate stepper conteoller for z axis as well as z0? İf there is a klipper config for skr 1.4 tmc 2209 bltouch and titan direct drive, it can make a great help for me
Is it possible to have a better firmware for this printer if so could you do a video for doing it thank you
Hey Steve, yes, you can install Marlin on the base Chitu board. Unfortunately my Chitu board blew up so I can't make a video for it myself however this guy recently published a really good walkthrough: angryadmin.sesc.dev/posts/tronxy-marlin/.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans Thanks for the reply
Can I pay you to fix my tronxy? this is my second printer and cant get it to print, z offset issues and adhesion. I can do the save settings for installing marlin either
Hey Marty. I'm happy to help - but if you're on the stock board/firmware and sensor I might not be able to offer much as I chucked it all a while ago :) What's the issue with your Z-Offset? Are you still using the blue sensor or have you upgraded to something more reliable? That sensor was such a PITA I actually used an old-school physical endstop for a while before getting a BLTouch in there.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans Thanks for the reply! I bought a Pei bed surface and fixed my adhesion issues. It is printing decent now. I will upgrade to a BL touch, I have the stock TR sensor right now. I appreciate the reply yet again!!!
@@simpsons721 Glad you got the Z issues figured out! That stock sensor was inconsistent for me and then completely unusable once you put glass over the aluminum. Good luck!
Good video but the link to the motor mounts you only have the ones for the y axis and not the x axis ones.
Hey Carl Sagan, nice name :) All you have to do is mirror the mount or washer for the other side however a lot of people have messaged or commented the same so I went ahead and uploaded mirrored versions.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans Thanks! That's what I ended up doing after playing with Cura. The motor mount definitely helped with my printing quality. I tried turning my system into a linear rod system but my double extrusion setup has made it super hard. I'm going to turn it back to a pulley wheel system and use your files.
@@elmexicanoforlive Yeah, my experience with linear rods is that they have pretty poor lateral strength. Good for vertical runs but if it has to hold some weight over a long-ish run then the rod will likely flex and shake a bit. The X5SA Pro uses a kind-of rail+extrusion hybrid where the smooth rods sit in the 2020 channels. It's the strength of an extrusion with the smoothness of a rod - but that's a pretty small upgrade over wheels in slots and if you're going to go that far might as well jump to true linear rails.
@@elmexicanoforlive What's you're dual extrusion set up? I ran dual direct V6s on my FT-5 for a while but it was a pain to keep aligned. Keep thinking of going back to a bowden dual setup with a single hot end.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans I bought the tronxy X5SA-2E upgrade. It's a 2 in one out hotend. I just upgraded the tubing to Capricorn ptfe tubes, used a top loading Bowden tube, trimmed them and it reduced my retraction significantly. It literally went from 10-12mm and 60-80mm/s to 4.5-6mm and 20mm/s. Had to dial in some settings but it's working ish right now. Thinking of doing a mixing dual hotend set up. That way I don't have to fuss with retraction.
I had to think through this several time, but I'm pretty sure I've got this right.
"these are the important extents, they have to be perfectly parallel to the y axis". I call male bovine feces. If that were true, if you wrote g-code to, say, go +10cm on the Y, then -10Cm on the Y over and over and over and over then the carriage would eventually track all the way to one end or the other or else one belt would get so tight it would explode. I'm pretty sure either will happen. As long as you have the same number of extents, with the same length, and the same angles you will be fine. The belts are (well are supposed to be) equal length, non-stretchy lines. I get that a hypotenuse of a triangle is loner than either side is, but it isn't a factor. Another way to say it is if the belt goes along a parallel extent, around a pulley and on to an angled one is the same as going along an angled extent, around a pulley and on to a parallel one.
As long as the angles are identical, the length of the perpendicular extents are identical and the length of the angled extents are identical. That is why the pulleys for the belts are stacked, it reduces the chance the belts will be different lengths.
I would add that belt tension shouldn't be adjusted by the motor mounts, or any other part that affects only 1 belt at a time. You want to make sure both belts are EXACTLY the same length, and connected to the carriage exactly the same, then adjust the front stacked pulleys for tension.
Hello Reel. I think you may be thinking about some of these items incorrectly. Your first example, moving Y +10/-10. The net result of those moves given an off-axis belt would end up being something like +9.95mm/-9.95mm. It would move the same amount in both directions - it wouldn't build up more and more tension or move more in +Y than in -Y. In addition, since the angle is changing it would be different depending on where the carriage is at. For instance, if it's close to the off axis pully it could be a smaller move, like 9.9mm where as at the opposite end where the belt angle would be more aligned to the axis it would be very close to 10mm. That is where the geometry errors come in to play and why you can't just easily calibrate it away.
The tension concern is that pulling at 0 degrees has the least amount of friction since it's pulling directly in line with the axis. As it gets close to the off-axis pully the angle increases as does the perpendicular force and friction on the wheels/bearings. Assuming the axis isn't completely catawampus that friction may be minimal but it could wear on the bearings and if you have a bad bearing or something then it could play a larger role.
As for all of the extents that do not lead to a moving carriage, you are correct that their angles don't matter because they would always be at a static length and angle.
Now, these are small numbers and errors we're talking about - again assuming the belts are somewhat in alignment. If everything on a printer worked great except this tiny alignment then that would still be a good printer. The thing is, it's real easy to make them correctly aligned - literally just a few mm of extra metal on the outside of the bearing mounts. There's no reason they shouldn't have done it right and illustrative of cut-corners. It's also real easy to fix,
@@LilMikeyDotCom I have no practical experience yet, as I am still assembling my unit still, so I'll defer.
You sound unconvinced and I'm here to help :) Let's use an actual pythagorean calculator: www.calculatorology.com/pythagorean-theorem-calculator/. We'll use the real Y-axis position as leg a, and the offset of the pully as leg b - let's say it's 5mm off-axis.
For our first move let's assume the Y-axis is close to the pully, leg a = 10mm, leg b = 5mm, the hypotenuse would be 11.180mm. Now if we instruct the printer to make a 10mm Y-axis move, it would actually tram the hypotenuse 10mm so our new hypotenuse would be 21.180, our leg b offset doesn't change so still 5mm, and our new leg a is 20.581. Our 10mm Y-axis move actually moved the carriage 10.581mm.
Now let's look at it when the carriage is close to the far, correctly aligned pulley, say leg a = 380mm, leg b still 5mm, the hypotenuse would be 380.033mm. Once again, a 10mm Y-axis move, new hypotenuse is 390.033. Our new leg a is 390.001. The carriage actually moved 10.001mm. That same Y + 10 movement resulted in a .58mm smaller change in the actual Y position than the same movement closer to the offset pully.
From a tension perspective, the closer movement would be pulling at an angle of 26.6 degrees where the farther movement would be pulling at 0.754 degrees - basically zero. CoreXY operates in push-pull so it's not like 100% of the force is applied at each of those angles but a significant portion would be - which could lead to bearing wear, inconsistent cable stretch/wear, or even skipped steps close to the 26 degree side.
@@LilMikeysBigPlans CoreXY operates in push-pull
can't find how to download mrlin
Hello Bryan, it's in the github root of the linked instructions: github.com/rhapsodyv/Marlin
@@LilMikeysBigPlans thanks a lot but it seems I end up stumbling on the same problem. Theres no V5 400 there and don't know how to dial in the right settings.
Great video but... to keep what's left of one on sanity, is to get something else. The cost plus the mods to print and install, is not worth it, to get where it needs to be.
Yep, it's hard to recommend the X5SA to anyone but tinkerers. I still say it's a good value for the parts in the box - although one of the steppers is starting to act up so that value prop may be dropping a bit.
The first thing I would change would be that ugly glass top.
Glass is beautiful and functional! That said, PEI on top of it is the business.
I have one and it does not work at all. The company is too stupid to help me. I sent the information and a video demonstrating what it was doing which is nothing.
Why even do all these mods to begin with?? Just build a voron at this point
If you have the skill and budget for a Voron or VzBot you should definitely do that. I believe a Voron BOM comes in around $1500. I have less than $500 sunk into the TronXY.
Troxy 4 never
While I love what my TronXY has become I can't argue with this sentiment :)
I always thought bowden was pronounced like bow in bow and arrow. not bow like bow your head. obviously bow has two different pronunciations because its a heteronym but I went off of the the pronunciation of bowden cable which is what the bowden tub is named after. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable claims it is pronounced as: /ˈboʊdən/ BOH-dən.