Ok, so I watched some videos by some other guys reviewing this thing and they basically trashed it but you have taken a turd and polished it well. I was looking for something less expensive than a CR10S5 in the same general size b/c even with their higher price I was still looking at dropping $600 in add-ons and and changes to a brand new unit. This video gives me great hope that I can take a much less expensive base unit and flip it into a very nice unit as you have. Thank you for posting this video!
Thank you for your work, sir! I just ordered the Tronxy X5SA, and the deciding factor was this video. The machine will be used to teach 3d printing to kids, and I will keep you informed of their progress. Thanks again!
Your workmanship and attention to detail is Impressive, as is the quality of your video production! Very professional in every aspect. The content is also very interesting and I'll wager that quite a few Tronxy X5SA printers will be sold because of it. I am already subscribed or I would sign up immediately. Thank you for this video!
Thank you so much for such a nice and positive comment Dave! People like you give me straight and positive energy to continue my hard work and stay on You-tube. I wish you all best my dear friend! P.S. I also made video review for this printer fell free to check it! I think that you will found it very interesting.
Thank you for the reply! I wasn't sure that you read the comments but am pleased to find out that you do! I have already looked over your content and found all your great Tronxy X5 videos. Now I will watch your Creality CR-10 offerings since that is the only printer I have at this time and I want to learn whatever I can from you. Thanks again for what you do.
You nailed pretty much all of the exact upgrades I had planned for this (silicone heater, enclosure, V6) plus quite a few more that are very sensible. I'm pretty sure you just sold me on buying another printer.
Thank you so much for your through videos you posted on this printer. I did in fact order it and received it yesterday and while I wanted to emulate what you were able to accomplished with this printer I have decided to return it. Because of you videos I did a very through inspection out of the box. Oddly enough it unpacked itself, I believe it was either an open box or someone opened the printer box itself as when I opened the shipping box the inner box was open an I found parts strewn about inside. I could however see they upgraded many of the issues you pointed out in the first video with the exception of an eye for quality. As I looked at it, all that would have been usable was a frame. For starters the flange bearings for the heater bed carriage were deformed, the extruder was not aligned or was bent but what was even more scary was when I opened up the electronic box to find wires loose and not landed correctly! This printer would have fried the moment I flipped the switch for the first time!!! However I can confirm they upgraded the bed wiring to 14 awg. LOL While I had high hopes of MODing this into a IDEX platform I felt the money and time it would take just to get this thing to print was better off being spent on a different printer. So I requested a return, corrected the wiring so when they send this out to some other person they don't get electrocuted and boxed it up and took your advice on another platform the QIDI TECH X-Max and ordered it up.When I started to add up what it would have taken to get to this printer to where I want it to be, I believe I'll actually save money as they got a 100.00 coupon on Amazon. Had you not alerted us/me I would have none the wiser that I was walking into a nightmare! THANK YOU AGAIN SIR!
Hi again ....I commented the other day on this review and after subscribing I realised that some time ago it was your review that was a decision maker for me on the Anycubic Photon I purchased this machine and everything you said was right. Its an impressive piece of kit, how they can manufacture something so good for the price point is amazing to say the least. I have had issues with all the various Resin settings but am slowly getting there as it is a different learning curve albeit a shorter one. I own 4 FDM machines 2 of which I am selling and replacing with the X5SA and your suggested upgrades. Keep up the good work oh and thanks again
paul w Thank you so much for your comment Paul! I'm very happy that you like my videos and found it usefull. Thanks to people like you and your positive energy and feedbacks I'm still posting videos on TH-cam. Best regards man! I wish you all the best!
Yet another brilliant Video. I have ordered this machine and will look forward to doing the upgrades. Thank you for such concise and understandable content. Not only have you spent a lot of time producing the video you have made the parts lists and all the other information that any one could possibly need. This really is very well done. Thanks !!
Several things I want to point out to those following this awesome guide. If you're in the US or where country uses 110-120, you will need a different bed heater, as that is effectively connecting right to the wall. It's mentioned elsewhere in the comments but you want the 120v 500w one from the options in that link. Nothing else should be different. I had an issue where once I chose to heat the hotend it would go into shut down mode but just stay stuck there. What the issue was is the PSU was still in the 220V mode even though it was still able to power the printer on. I'm used to computer PSUs or old ones where if the switch was wring it would fry the unit. This is not the case. The yellow sticker pointing to the switch is fairly obvious and the knob should be on the 110v side which is printed on the PCB. Once I did that I was able to power the hotend no problem. I then experienced and issue with the hotbed that wasn't heating. I checked the control wires going to the SSR and seemed like they had voltage going through them. Since it's a DC input I thought I'd switched them over and it worked. I thought it was weird since I though the old bed was AC power and it does not have negative or positive nodes. After doing DC for so long AC is a bit confusing to me. For the pulleys I was also able to get the same ones on amazon for the same price because the ones from Aliexpress hadn't shown up after a couple of months. Make sure you get nuts for them to put under the pulleys. This will give a nice lock to the base so it doesn't move around but still allow the pulleys to spin freely. One question I have is if the bed output is AC, why did switching the wires work to solve the input problem? Also, why wasn't an AA SSR used that uses AC input to close the circuit? Still have a few things to do on this build. Will need to properly mount the new PSU, replace the extruder, add the lights, and build the encloser. Many thanks to Nexi, this has been awesome to follow and the improvement is drastic.
By the way. I commend you on your absolute attention to detail!!! Your links are put together nicely and very thorough. About time someone showed some passion for what they do. Have a great day
Thank you so much Brad! I' very happy that you liked my video and you noticed my crazy attention to details :D Best regards man! I wish you all the best
Great work. I love your work arounds with what a lot of reviewers are calling a junk printer. A few mods and you are getting awesome prints. Please keep the videos coming
I got an X5S recently and the first thing I did was to put in a Duet WiFi board. I would highly recommend doing this as the Trinamic drivers make the printer run almost silently.
Wow simply an awesome modified printer! Would you say that you spent $600-800 (USD) for the entire setup? The fact that you're making this to handle Polycarbonate with carbon fiber is a step in the pro-level printing. I really love how you went with an AC 600w heated bed with the solid-state relay. I guess you don't need to have a 24v power supply for the hot-end because of the AC heated bed. The only things I thought you would have changed is having the controller outside of the enclosure. I have a highly modifed Tevo Tarantula (i3 clone), but I really enjoy seeing what people have made with their TronXY printers. I really envy the cube frame which is more stiff.
At very beginning it's very tricky to set it up correctly, once you understand how it works there are no problem at all. First set buildplate correctly, then edjust Z offset. It's time consuming but very important.
I will buy this printer for sure and most of the components for the upgrade.Thank you a lot.I think the GT2 Pulley are printable as well. They cost 20 bucks after all. (at least the ones with the teeth). The solid state relay is pretty expensive as well... the parts inside it cost 0.4$.
Absolutely fantastic job! I will be joining the crew with an X5SA Pro. I have already ordered the parts list based on this video and agree if you could share a wiring diagram or up to producing some of your build footage or a review of your wiring would be amazing. Thank you for all your efforts and finite detail.
Nexi, first of all, I have to say your channel is one of the most detailed, helpful, 3D printer channels I've ever come across. Thanks for sharing all the hard work. Definitely gained a subscriber. A couple quick questions for you: 1) Does your modified X5SA print any faster than any of the comparable cartesian printers? (Tornado/ CR-10/ Chiron/ etc.) 2) What are your thoughts about core XY vs. Delta printers vs. Cartesian are far as speed? The published specs are usually ~ the same, but every comparison between the delta and cartesian, the delta wins. I can't find any comparisons between core xy & delta. (Assumes comparable finish quality for the speed tests). Thanks!
Great Video and amazing job on all the upgrades!! I just my Tronxy X5SA and have ordered most of the upgrades you suggested in the 1st video, but I was wondering if you could do a video on how to connect some of the electrical upgrades such as the mosfit and Solid state relay, as I am new to doing such mod. Thanks in advance!!
I just ordered Tronxy X5SA pro model. Will go through the mods once I get it. I think they already added some of the features you mentioned in your unboxing/installation video. I will try to make this enclosure and heat bed upgrade sure.
This is making me want to switch from my Artillery SW-X1. I love the build volume on it, but with a tall print it has to go so slow, and the heavy bed causes a lot of ringing.
Love how it looks after the upgrades!! Which on do you reccomend... this TronXy or the CR-10S Pro?? I like them both and very interested in your opinion please!!
I really like your content Nexi Tech! You know how to tweak the printer, so every time you review something I'm sure you push the machine to its quality limits. Another very important thing is how you showcase printed objects. I really miss that on the channels from the other youtubers. Detailed closeups in good light is the key to judge the printer and you always have it at the end! Time lapses are nice to watch but technically they don't add much value. Keep it like that - I'm more than happy to subscribe! Ps. Which printer you experienced (not necessarily reviewed) as print quality killer? I look for something FDM better than my anycubic I3 mega in terms of precision printing only.
Hi Nexi I liked you video about 3D printing machine. Every review I watch about 3D machines in the end, they tell you this is the a good one. My question is, what I need to look for if I want to buy one. Thanks again.
Mate you have to start from something. Get one 3D printer for example CR10S PRO, Ender 3 or Ender 5. When you learn more about 3d printers in few mounts of use you will know to answer yourself.
So in other words you totally rebuilt the machine Nice too. Ive been watching 1000s of video as i want a 3D printer creality CR10 S5 500X500X500 is the size but to get it to produce decent multi filaments and modifications needed is still out my price rang the X5SA is a 2nd gen printer and very similar to creality nice video love the glass and plastics nice job
Hey there, Great video very informative. I am planning on picking up an X5SA soon and wanted to get the belts and pulleys upgraded when I first put it together. I was wondering what length of GT2 belt is required, how many toothed pulleys and smooth pulleys are required and if the inner diameter of the pulleys is 3mm or 5mm. Thanks for the video and keep up the great content!
good question.. I'd like to know this myself.. are the original pulleys and belt not good though? I feel like he swapped them out because he already had them laying around.
You have done an excellent job on tuning that printer in, but with such a build volume I'm a little disappointed that all you show is a tiny phone stand. I would like to see a nice time lapse of that printing something at near it's capacity. Impressive as usual though, thanks for sharing Nexi.
Kevin Schofield Hi Kevin! Thank you for your comment I'm glad that you liked my video and that you appreciate my work. Well that mobile stand is only quick speed/stability test for ABS and PLA filament and 3D Benchy is just a quck print quality test. I already made full review for this 3D printer and I show alot of time lapses and printed models like Huge pyramid, Robots, lamp, Terminator 2 Arm etc. Please check video if you missed it th-cam.com/video/Pq3qjdaRnuY/w-d-xo.html
Oh yeah, I forgot about those. That Pyramid and Terminator arm do count, but those were before all the UPGRADES. You got priorities now, you need formula more than filament.:-)
Fodor Cosmin Thanks man! Welcome to the club :) No, I made mistake in video. It's Actuely GT2 20mm pulleys with 5mm bore for 6mm belts. But 16mm could work great as well.
Thank you for asking this question, I was just about to ask it myself. Excited to get my kit in the mail, making sure I have the easy upgrade parts for when it gets here. :)
An absolutely superb review and superb set of upgrades. NYLON These modifications inspired some questions for printing in nylon, a much more resilient material, per reports. To go further in the upgrades what would be recommended to print nylon, at the higher temperatures? Maybe all glass case? Recirculation fan to reduce temperature stratification in the print volume? PRO version What meaningful differences are there between the X5SA and the X5SA Pro? MULTIPLE HEADS My needs include the capacity to change materials/colours during a print, and thus multiple extruders each with its own nozzle, and, the need to CNC for PCB prototyping. As most people agree that the TronXY X5SA is a wonderful platform for tool changing: What mods have people tried in this direction? Thx to all and especially, of course, to Nexi. Cheers xian (Christian M)
NOTE: When installing the Solid State Relay notice that the DC input polarity (+ and -) is important. The polarity is not marked on the green Heated Bed connector on the motherboard. Use a multimeter to determine the polarity coming from the connector by going to Pre Heat on the touch screen and turning on the Heated Bed (but not Hot End). If you have your probes reversed you will see a -12 volts displayed. On my motherboard the positive was on the left, negative was on the right. I swapped in a black wire for negative so I could easily tell the difference in the future (14 guage to match, but not necessarily required since current draw much less now).
...just an update on Heated Bed upgrade... I stuck the 600W Bed Heater to the aluminum bed using 3M backing (500W in my case, since I bought the one that works with 120V - RMS from my wall measures 126V, so I picked that model of Bed Heater from the AliExpress link Nexi provided). The Bed Heater has a thermistor in its center, so I removed the original thermistor that came with the printer. Hooked up the new thermistor wires to the old thermistor wiring (so I could re-use the motherboard connector). Them I wired the AC and DC connections for the Solid State Relay and to the Power Supply AC screws as diagrammed in that other thread). I ran a Pre-Heat from the Control Panel to 60 C bed heat and it measured perfectly at the center of the aluminum plate. I put the plate on top of the Headbed Insulation (hadn't glued it on with Silicone yet) and cranked up the Pre-Heat to 100 C. Very fast heat-up and perfect reading. There is a few degrees fall-off around the edge of the plate, but to be expected in an open environment and such a large plate. I put the Silicone Sealant on the back of the Bed Heater and secured the sheet of Heatbed Insulation. Silicone sealant takes 24 hours to cure, so I will re-assemble my printer then. Love these upgrades - Thank You So Much Nexi !!!
I've been thinking of upgrading from my i3 clone to a CoreXY printer for a while now. With this many upgrades, I wonder if it's even worth going with a printer kit. It might be cheaper to build your own from scratch!
I thought the same thing. Then I actually added up all the parts for just the frame, wiring, and control board (no hotend or heat bed) using the cheapest options I could find on BangGood and AliExpress and it was already $100 more than this!
What about connecting the 2 "Z" motors with a timing belt at the bottom to stop them from becoming different heights? It would have to be a closed timing belt, I have a source for all the parts needed for mine except for a way to mount a tensioner for the belt.
whao ! It's just crazy ! I have the same machine but everything is sooooo complicated for me to print. How much time and money do I need to transforme my machine like that for PLA please ? I'm a beginner..
This is the nicest tronxy x5s build I have seen so far! I have the x5st but I can't get the auto levelling to work, do you know what needs to be done to activate it?
I don't own one but from what I've read make sure the bed is heated.. people say its a rookie mistake to auto-level a bed that's not heated at the time of leveling.
Good night, when you closed the printer and started testing, did you have to make any changes to her firmawer? If possible, give me the firmawer you are using to have this quality and the slicer settings, I use Cura, do you also use it? I bought one just like yours, closed it and I'm still having trouble to have an excellent quality to produce my pieces. I appreciate your video and information about the printer. Actually I bought the 24V version, already updated and everything, Tronxy X5SA 24V, but it is little difference I believe.
Thanks for the video. I am between the Tronxy X5S 500 and CR10S 500. What would you recommend between the two? I have no 3D printer experience, but am mechanically capable and think I could tinker with either one. They both seem very popular, but have noticed differences such as a cubed frame and belts vs lead screws between the two. Of these two models, what do you recommend? Thank you
spezzy To be honest none of them. You will have alot of problems leveling the bed that size on both machines. Auto level is a must have at that scale. Also both have 12V power supplies at that bed size?! That's not remotely enough. If you looking for large scale 3D printer I would strongly recomend that you go with X5SA(if you are willing to do upgrades) or Anycubic Chiron(I made final review not long) th-cam.com/video/goY6slY4Ryc/w-d-xo.html
I completely agree with Nexi here and if large print size is important, I suggest the Chiron, too, as I’ve had much better experience with Anycubic than with Tronxy, both in the quality of the product and their service. Once you have your first printer easily working trouble-free, then you could consider modifying a Tronxy for your second printer, as the Core-XY mechanicals have an advantage, in theory, over the back-and-forth moving printbed of the Chiron. Nexi’s modifications make his Tronxy able to print with more exotic materials/higher temperatures - the enclosure is essential for this and the Tronxy’s design seems to suit it. If different materials and print size are less important and you’re looking for speed and quality, I recommend you get a Delta instead :) my first printer was the original Anycubic Kossel and I’m now very happy with my Kossel Linear Plus! Not usually recommended for a beginner but it was easy to set up, and it’s reliable - it is very useful for printing parts for my Tronxy :)
Hello, what is the differences between X5S and X5SA ? For example on the X5S is famous the heated bed is not working and have to buy a dedicated power supply of 24V for make it heat up. Here on the X5SA is the same? Seems like they upgrade/fix some issues from the X5S and named X5SA but what they update? Thanks
Hi NExi, those door hinges. did you print them assembled or disassembled? If the latter, was it easy to retrofit? also what thermistor upgrade would be compatible for the X5SA pro or X5SA?
When installing your ac hot bed did you have to change anything in the software to reconise a higher temp ie 120c also would it be posible for a install vid on the ac hot bed
if you still use it take out spring belt tensioner use only manual steady tensioner for better guality (when printer move fast spring make worse quality)
Would you recommend duel color on this model I had a blob and my wife ripped the wires for the heater on the filament so I was thinking titan but ran across dual color titan
Are you an engineer? Very nicely done!! Impressive. It really shows you have high standards and you have a keen eye for intricate details. Very impressed with what you have done. I am about to buy this printer. I've saved your video for future reference when the printer gets delivered. I am curious as to where can I get that thermal gun you use during the printing test....? Can you share a link? Thanks again and keep up the great work. Best regards, Rob
Rob Fern Well I could be one but in school I would not get knowledge and skills that I have now and I would not learn about 3D printers and so many other things that I know thanks to the web. Knowledge is all over the net and thanks to brilliant people all over the world so you only need time and will to learn what ever interests you :) Thanks Rob! Yes of course here it is. I made video about that Thermal gun. th-cam.com/video/5HcpL8BNyZw/w-d-xo.html Best regards Nexi
Thanks man! Oh no! I sorry for your X5SA! I guess that you did not see my review video where I mention important safety tip about this machine. Main DC wires are too thin to carry the continuous load and they get pretty hot. That heat is then transferred to mother board and power supply which can get damaged. You need to ether add one more DC wire or to place wires on the side (inside) aluminum extrusions to work as huge heat-sink.
Nexi Tech I actually had it wired similar to yours, with the wires inside the frame to dissipate the heat. I also wasn't using the heat bed which it also baffles me that it did what it did.
Justin Lincoln When you change wiring you should always verify connections and verify voltage drop on each wire ( put millivolt meter in parallel to see voltage drop. No more then 2% drop 12v. = 0.24V drop). Probe on +12v PSU and +12V on load
Didn't change wiring, the stock wires that came with printer caught on fire. Was running everything 100% stock at the time and I guess Tronxy just doesn't want people to know their setups catch on fire lol
I upgraded the power supply and heatbed wiring after Nexi’s original video. Mine caught on fire too first time I turned it on, but in my case it was the hotend heat cartridge and its wiring. Tronxy sent me a replacement, but I used a standard spare that I had. My biggest two problems with this printer are - weak hotend/unreliable extruder feed, and bed levelling - there are no Z-stop switches, so the heated bed seems to lose its level with every print, as the two stepper motors get out of sync. I have to do an auto level before every print. Can Z-stop switches be added?
Hi, Nexi tech good day. I was looking to buy a new printer and I am leaning towards this x5sa. Do you still suggest it now as a good core XY printer buy? My current printer is an ender 3 and upgraded a lot on it.
Hey Nexi Thanks for all your effort. Most of the parts are ordered... except the e3D Clone.. I ordered the X5SA with 24V option. You switched to a 15amps PSU with 24V right? The Heatbed is 220v 600w (EU for me as well), you routed the Heatbed outputs to the SSR (to switch it) and the Powerline parallel from the PSU to the SSR -> Heatbed.. right? Whats the exact dimensions for the Alloy of the heatbed? 330x330? since my idea is to get a new Aluminium Heatbed, tape the Heatbed downunder and use a glassplate on top of the Aluminium. The SSR switches the Heatbed until it reaches the Temperature correct? Feedback would be REALLY appreciated! :) Thanks for your Build and Video!
Nice video. I have a question for you regarding changing the value of the thermistor. I too am upgrading my X5SA to a E3D V6. It comes with a 100K thermistor, which I know is different from the stock thermistor. What code do I need to run to set the correct value in the firmware?
never mind I figured it out. The default travel speed in cura is 120mm which is way too fast for this printer. I set it to 60 and haven't had an issue. since.
Rick Smart You got some problem with your machine. I can reach 200mm/s travel without any problem or any layer shift even with completely stock hardware with no mods on this machine. First check your X and Y movement's by hand are they move nice and smooth? Then double check all wheel bearings on aluminium extrusions. Then re-check bearings(pulleys). They all need to roll smooth and without drag. Maybe you over tight bearings on belts. Also last step re-check stepper drivers voltages. Set them to 0.9V.
@@NexiTech hey, I had already checked all of that and then again. I was about to send it back but after doing a little digging on reddit a user suggested I turn the travel speed down and it worked like a dream. Also i dont know how to change the voltage of my stepper motors. Do you have a tutorial? Thanks for getting back to me so fast as well.
What can i do if want have quiter stepper motor? If only move z-axis, there is big voice. I dont know if come from motors or another vibrations. I also noticed, that on board is regulator near stepper driver. That regulator change voltage to motors?
Did you have any trouble connecting to Cura via usb? I cant seem to detect the printer and ive tried using all com ports and still nothing any help would be awesome. Great video! and Tronxy must have listened to you they added butterfly nuts for the bed and way better Y and X bearings on my kit i just got. Thanks.
Nice setup, but I can't help but wonder how much you've got invested in this printer now. I know they go for about $400US, and from all that you've done, if I were to guess, I would guess you have another $400US in it. That said, and with all of the modifications you've had to do to get it to this level, did you ever consider just building one from scratch? It seems like you could have built one as good for less money. Again though, nice job with everything you did to it.
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Hi Guys! If you missed my Tronxy X5SA review video here it is: th-cam.com/video/Pq3qjdaRnuY/w-d-xo.html
Have you ever had salmon skin with this printer? Either before or after these upgrades?
Ian Isaak Not at all.
This printer don't leave any salmon skin on the prints surface.
Hello friend! when will there be more improvements to this printer? for example, a double extruder for gradient printing?
@Nexi Tech what must have mods would you say are the most important to get this printer performing the best it can? function over form?
@@redkurn ок
Ok, so I watched some videos by some other guys reviewing this thing and they basically trashed it but you have taken a turd and polished it well. I was looking for something less expensive than a CR10S5 in the same general size b/c even with their higher price I was still looking at dropping $600 in add-ons and and changes to a brand new unit. This video gives me great hope that I can take a much less expensive base unit and flip it into a very nice unit as you have. Thank you for posting this video!
Thank you for your work, sir! I just ordered the Tronxy X5SA, and the deciding factor was this video. The machine will be used to teach 3d printing to kids, and I will keep you informed of their progress. Thanks again!
Your workmanship and attention to detail is Impressive, as is the quality of your video production! Very professional in every aspect. The content is also very interesting and I'll wager that quite a few Tronxy X5SA printers will be sold because of it. I am already subscribed or I would sign up immediately. Thank you for this video!
Thank you so much for such a nice and positive comment Dave! People like you give me straight and positive energy to continue my hard work and stay on You-tube. I wish you all best my dear friend!
P.S. I also made video review for this printer fell free to check it! I think that you will found it very interesting.
Thank you for the reply! I wasn't sure that you read the comments but am pleased to find out that you do! I have already looked over your content and found all your great Tronxy X5 videos. Now I will watch your Creality CR-10 offerings since that is the only printer I have at this time and I want to learn whatever I can from you. Thanks again for what you do.
Ditto on what Dave Grandeffo said.
I know I am about to buy an X5SA Pro based on this video.
@@devinmulrooney me too!!!
You nailed pretty much all of the exact upgrades I had planned for this (silicone heater, enclosure, V6) plus quite a few more that are very sensible. I'm pretty sure you just sold me on buying another printer.
Thank you so much for your through videos you posted on this printer. I did in fact order it and received it yesterday and while I wanted to emulate what you were able to accomplished with this printer I have decided to return it. Because of you videos I did a very through inspection out of the box. Oddly enough it unpacked itself, I believe it was either an open box or someone opened the printer box itself as when I opened the shipping box the inner box was open an I found parts strewn about inside. I could however see they upgraded many of the issues you pointed out in the first video with the exception of an eye for quality. As I looked at it, all that would have been usable was a frame. For starters the flange bearings for the heater bed carriage were deformed, the extruder was not aligned or was bent but what was even more scary was when I opened up the electronic box to find wires loose and not landed correctly! This printer would have fried the moment I flipped the switch for the first time!!! However I can confirm they upgraded the bed wiring to 14 awg. LOL While I had high hopes of MODing this into a IDEX platform I felt the money and time it would take just to get this thing to print was better off being spent on a different printer. So I requested a return, corrected the wiring so when they send this out to some other person they don't get electrocuted and boxed it up and took your advice on another platform the QIDI TECH X-Max and ordered it up.When I started to add up what it would have taken to get to this printer to where I want it to be, I believe I'll actually save money as they got a 100.00 coupon on Amazon. Had you not alerted us/me I would have none the wiser that I was walking into a nightmare! THANK YOU AGAIN SIR!
Hi again ....I commented the other day on this review and after subscribing I realised that some time ago it was your review that was a decision maker for me on the Anycubic Photon I purchased this machine and everything you said was right. Its an impressive piece of kit, how they can manufacture something so good for the price point is amazing to say the least. I have had issues with all the various Resin settings but am slowly getting there as it is a different learning curve albeit a shorter one. I own 4 FDM machines 2 of which I am selling and replacing with the X5SA and your suggested upgrades. Keep up the good work oh and thanks again
paul w Thank you so much for your comment Paul! I'm very happy that you like my videos and found it usefull. Thanks to people like you and your positive energy and feedbacks I'm still posting videos on TH-cam. Best regards man! I wish you all the best!
Yet another brilliant Video. I have ordered this machine and will look forward to doing the upgrades. Thank you for such concise and understandable content. Not only have you spent a lot of time producing the video you have made the parts lists and all the other information that any one could possibly need. This really is very well done. Thanks !!
paul w Thank you so much for mate! I really appreciate your comment. Best regards
Excellent workmanship and fine tuning of the printer. Awesome results! Congratulations!!!
Thank you so much man! I appreciate it :) Cheers!
The attention to detail in this video is absolutely astounding.
Al L Thank you so much!
Several things I want to point out to those following this awesome guide. If you're in the US or where country uses 110-120, you will need a different bed heater, as that is effectively connecting right to the wall. It's mentioned elsewhere in the comments but you want the 120v 500w one from the options in that link. Nothing else should be different.
I had an issue where once I chose to heat the hotend it would go into shut down mode but just stay stuck there. What the issue was is the PSU was still in the 220V mode even though it was still able to power the printer on. I'm used to computer PSUs or old ones where if the switch was wring it would fry the unit. This is not the case. The yellow sticker pointing to the switch is fairly obvious and the knob should be on the 110v side which is printed on the PCB.
Once I did that I was able to power the hotend no problem.
I then experienced and issue with the hotbed that wasn't heating. I checked the control wires going to the SSR and seemed like they had voltage going through them. Since it's a DC input I thought I'd switched them over and it worked.
I thought it was weird since I though the old bed was AC power and it does not have negative or positive nodes. After doing DC for so long AC is a bit confusing to me.
For the pulleys I was also able to get the same ones on amazon for the same price because the ones from Aliexpress hadn't shown up after a couple of months.
Make sure you get nuts for them to put under the pulleys. This will give a nice lock to the base so it doesn't move around but still allow the pulleys to spin freely.
One question I have is if the bed output is AC, why did switching the wires work to solve the input problem? Also, why wasn't an AA SSR used that uses AC input to close the circuit?
Still have a few things to do on this build. Will need to properly mount the new PSU, replace the extruder, add the lights, and build the encloser.
Many thanks to Nexi, this has been awesome to follow and the improvement is drastic.
By the way. I commend you on your absolute attention to detail!!! Your links are put together nicely and very thorough. About time someone showed some passion for what they do. Have a great day
Thank you so much Brad! I' very happy that you liked my video and you noticed my crazy attention to details :D Best regards man! I wish you all the best
Wow impressive. The low brand machine are turned in high brand machine!
Great work. I love your work arounds with what a lot of reviewers are calling a junk printer. A few mods and you are getting awesome prints. Please keep the videos coming
Peter Humm Thanks for your comment Peter! I agree :)
I just got this printer, I started with the baby Groot as well why not. I found the video helpful ty
I got an X5S recently and the first thing I did was to put in a Duet WiFi board. I would highly recommend doing this as the Trinamic drivers make the printer run almost silently.
Excellent video. I would love to see this machine printing engineering parts from PETG, ABS or POLYCARBONATE.
Loved the video. Very informative! I just ordered this printer from Amazon, so I am looking forward to this fun build.
Been a fan of your videos since the anet a8. This is really impressive and inspiring.
magnum696 Thank you so much mate! Only true fans knows about my Anet A8 :)
Now it is perfect printer and perfect product. 100% 👏
Ordered an x5sa-400 thanks to you! Thanks for the awesome content!
Thanks so much for posting the firmware gcodes as well. Really saved my bacon after I upgraded to the Titan extruder. Thanks!
kwanyeazy No problem my friend! I'm glad that I helped :) Thanks for stopping by
Wow simply an awesome modified printer! Would you say that you spent $600-800 (USD) for the entire setup? The fact that you're making this to handle Polycarbonate with carbon fiber is a step in the pro-level printing. I really love how you went with an AC 600w heated bed with the solid-state relay. I guess you don't need to have a 24v power supply for the hot-end because of the AC heated bed. The only things I thought you would have changed is having the controller outside of the enclosure.
I have a highly modifed Tevo Tarantula (i3 clone), but I really enjoy seeing what people have made with their TronXY printers. I really envy the cube frame which is more stiff.
Really found this useful. I just bought a x5sa-400. I wish we were neighbors! Keep up the good work. Don't work too hard.......Joe
Is it working for you? My x5sa always messes up with the z-offset. I cannot set it correctly.
At very beginning it's very tricky to set it up correctly, once you understand how it works there are no problem at all. First set buildplate correctly, then edjust Z offset. It's time consuming but very important.
You got me convinced, the prints looks amazing!
I will buy this printer for sure and most of the components for the upgrade.Thank you a lot.I think the GT2 Pulley are printable as well. They cost 20 bucks after all. (at least the ones with the teeth). The solid state relay is pretty expensive as well... the parts inside it cost 0.4$.
Very well done. Good job! Have you considered a mainboard upgrade?
Your a genius. Best video on the tube
Thanks buddy!
Impressive results. I gonna probably do the same you did here. Thanks for sharing!
Great and well timed video. Just finishing my build so will be doing some of these upgrades
Thanks! That's awesome Paul! Good luck with your printer! P.S. Check my X5SA review on the channel I mention important safety tip about main DC wires.
What and amazing job you did! Excellent video!
Share that all with TronXY so they can make the ultimate printer!
Absolutely fantastic job! I will be joining the crew with an X5SA Pro. I have already ordered the parts list based on this video and agree if you could share a wiring diagram or up to producing some of your build footage or a review of your wiring would be amazing. Thank you for all your efforts and finite detail.
Excellent Video and links. That's a lot of work. Well done!
Nexi, first of all, I have to say your channel is one of the most detailed, helpful, 3D printer channels I've ever come across. Thanks for sharing all the hard work. Definitely gained a subscriber.
A couple quick questions for you: 1) Does your modified X5SA print any faster than any of the comparable cartesian printers? (Tornado/ CR-10/ Chiron/ etc.)
2) What are your thoughts about core XY vs. Delta printers vs. Cartesian are far as speed? The published specs are usually ~ the same, but every comparison between the delta and cartesian, the delta wins. I can't find any comparisons between core xy & delta. (Assumes comparable finish quality for the speed tests).
Thanks!
wow... 1st impressions is it looks great.... now to watch more than 1st 5 seconds.
Great Video and amazing job on all the upgrades!! I just my Tronxy X5SA and have ordered most of the upgrades you suggested in the 1st video, but I was wondering if you could do a video on how to connect some of the electrical upgrades such as the mosfit and Solid state relay, as I am new to doing such mod. Thanks in advance!!
Thanks. Looks great
Am glad you like it :) Cheers!
I just ordered Tronxy X5SA pro model. Will go through the mods once I get it. I think they already added some of the features you mentioned in your unboxing/installation video. I will try to make this enclosure and heat bed upgrade sure.
This is making me want to switch from my Artillery SW-X1. I love the build volume on it, but with a tall print it has to go so slow, and the heavy bed causes a lot of ringing.
Just got mine the tronxy x5sa-400 for about $340 I am beyond impressed the machine is prity impressive especially having a heated bed at 400mm^3
Love how it looks after the upgrades!!
Which on do you reccomend... this TronXy or the CR-10S Pro?? I like them both and very interested in your opinion please!!
I really like your content Nexi Tech! You know how to tweak the printer, so every time you review something I'm sure you push the machine to its quality limits. Another very important thing is how you showcase printed objects. I really miss that on the channels from the other youtubers. Detailed closeups in good light is the key to judge the printer and you always have it at the end! Time lapses are nice to watch but technically they don't add much value. Keep it like that - I'm more than happy to subscribe! Ps. Which printer you experienced (not necessarily reviewed) as print quality killer? I look for something FDM better than my anycubic I3 mega in terms of precision printing only.
love your videos! keep it up man
Timo Wey Thanks man! :)
Hey Nexi, do you have a diagram as to how you wired the SSR? Currently upgrading the heat bed on it. Thanks
You made great changes and I love it. I bought the Tronxy X5SA and when it arrive here in Brazil I'll do all the changes. Thank you for this video.
Eder Martins No problem, I'm glad that you liked my video. Good luck with your machine! :)
Subscribed 10/10. Appreciate all the content and knowledge shared.
Hi Nexi
I liked you video about 3D printing machine. Every review I watch about 3D machines in the end, they tell you this is the a good one. My question is, what I need to look for if I want to buy one. Thanks again.
Mate you have to start from something. Get one 3D printer for example CR10S PRO, Ender 3 or Ender 5. When you learn more about 3d printers in few mounts of use you will know to answer yourself.
So in other words you totally rebuilt the machine
Nice too. Ive been watching 1000s of video as i want a 3D printer creality CR10 S5 500X500X500 is the size but to get it to produce decent multi filaments and modifications needed is still out my price rang the X5SA is a 2nd gen printer and very similar to creality nice video love the glass and plastics nice job
Great mods, I’m considering this printer, thank you!
Mike Taylor You welcome Mike! Thanks for stopping by.
P.S. On my channel you have X5SA review video before all these upgrades.
i got this printer a coupe months back. how about an update video on your upgrades, what changes you did or did not make.
can you plug in a second nozzle owith this kind of setup you have or not. i mean could you upgrade your printer to an dual extruder one or not
There is a factory dual nozzle version, so upgrade is probably possible.
Thank you Nexi
Pelican Archive You welcome my friend.
Thanks for the video. I just got done building this printer and thought Great I'm done... Guess not.
Now THIS is how the pro should have been done.
Hey there, Great video very informative. I am planning on picking up an X5SA soon and wanted to get the belts and pulleys upgraded when I first put it together. I was wondering what length of GT2 belt is required, how many toothed pulleys and smooth pulleys are required and if the inner diameter of the pulleys is 3mm or 5mm. Thanks for the video and keep up the great content!
good question.. I'd like to know this myself.. are the original pulleys and belt not good though? I feel like he swapped them out because he already had them laying around.
1:30 I can't find the vertical pieces you used in the corners, can you please share a link??
You have done an excellent job on tuning that printer in, but with such a build volume I'm a little disappointed that all you show is a tiny phone stand. I would like to see a nice time lapse of that printing something at near it's capacity. Impressive as usual though, thanks for sharing Nexi.
Kevin Schofield Hi Kevin! Thank you for your comment I'm glad that you liked my video and that you appreciate my work. Well that mobile stand is only quick speed/stability test for ABS and PLA filament and 3D Benchy is just a quck print quality test.
I already made full review for this 3D printer and I show alot of time lapses and printed models like Huge pyramid, Robots, lamp, Terminator 2 Arm etc. Please check video if you missed it
th-cam.com/video/Pq3qjdaRnuY/w-d-xo.html
Oh yeah, I forgot about those. That Pyramid and Terminator arm do count, but those were before all the UPGRADES. You got priorities now, you need formula more than filament.:-)
Hello, could you share the print slicer profile? many thanks!
Quite impressive. Is there anything that you would rate higher that this one, from what you use?
Awesome build ! I purchased one myself not long .. Question : You changed the pulleys with GT2 16 teeth 5 mm ?
Fodor Cosmin Thanks man! Welcome to the club :)
No, I made mistake in video. It's Actuely GT2 20mm pulleys with 5mm bore for 6mm belts. But 16mm could work great as well.
Thank you for asking this question, I was just about to ask it myself. Excited to get my kit in the mail, making sure I have the easy upgrade parts for when it gets here. :)
the carrdige at 7:49 looks nothing alike all the 3 carridges uploaded in the description from thingiverse ... can you please give the proper one ?
Excellent video
Hell of a useful video! Thank you!
An absolutely superb review and superb set of upgrades.
NYLON
These modifications inspired some questions for printing in nylon, a much more resilient material, per reports.
To go further in the upgrades what would be recommended to print nylon, at the higher temperatures? Maybe all glass case? Recirculation fan to reduce temperature stratification in the print volume?
PRO version
What meaningful differences are there between the X5SA and the X5SA Pro?
MULTIPLE HEADS
My needs include the capacity to change materials/colours during a print, and thus multiple extruders each with its own nozzle, and, the need to CNC for PCB prototyping.
As most people agree that the TronXY X5SA is a wonderful platform for tool changing:
What mods have people tried in this direction?
Thx to all and especially, of course, to Nexi.
Cheers
xian
(Christian M)
NOTE: When installing the Solid State Relay notice that the DC input polarity (+ and -) is important. The polarity is not marked on the green Heated Bed connector on the motherboard. Use a multimeter to determine the polarity coming from the connector by going to Pre Heat on the touch screen and turning on the Heated Bed (but not Hot End). If you have your probes reversed you will see a -12 volts displayed. On my motherboard the positive was on the left, negative was on the right. I swapped in a black wire for negative so I could easily tell the difference in the future (14 guage to match, but not necessarily required since current draw much less now).
...just an update on Heated Bed upgrade... I stuck the 600W Bed Heater to the aluminum bed using 3M backing (500W in my case, since I bought the one that works with 120V - RMS from my wall measures 126V, so I picked that model of Bed Heater from the AliExpress link Nexi provided). The Bed Heater has a thermistor in its center, so I removed the original thermistor that came with the printer. Hooked up the new thermistor wires to the old thermistor wiring (so I could re-use the motherboard connector). Them I wired the AC and DC connections for the Solid State Relay and to the Power Supply AC screws as diagrammed in that other thread). I ran a Pre-Heat from the Control Panel to 60 C bed heat and it measured perfectly at the center of the aluminum plate. I put the plate on top of the Headbed Insulation (hadn't glued it on with Silicone yet) and cranked up the Pre-Heat to 100 C. Very fast heat-up and perfect reading. There is a few degrees fall-off around the edge of the plate, but to be expected in an open environment and such a large plate.
I put the Silicone Sealant on the back of the Bed Heater and secured the sheet of Heatbed Insulation. Silicone sealant takes 24 hours to cure, so I will re-assemble my printer then. Love these upgrades - Thank You So Much Nexi !!!
@@stevehiemstra8514 Did you need to get a different SSR than the one mentioned? One for 120V out?
I've been thinking of upgrading from my i3 clone to a CoreXY printer for a while now. With this many upgrades, I wonder if it's even worth going with a printer kit. It might be cheaper to build your own from scratch!
I thought the same thing. Then I actually added up all the parts for just the frame, wiring, and control board (no hotend or heat bed) using the cheapest options I could find on BangGood and AliExpress and it was already $100 more than this!
What about connecting the 2 "Z" motors with a timing belt at the bottom to stop them from becoming different heights? It would have to be a closed timing belt, I have a source for all the parts needed for mine except for a way to mount a tensioner for the belt.
Replace the crummy inductive sensor with CRtouch, as the stock sensor has high temperature drift
whao ! It's just crazy ! I have the same machine but everything is sooooo complicated for me to print. How much time and money do I need to transforme my machine like that for PLA please ? I'm a beginner..
Great Video!
Did anyone has assemble a BONDTECH extruder on this 3D printer?
if you now add TMC2100 to it it would be near dead silent ^^
do you think the E3D V6 clone is good? or should I spend the extra for an original?
It´s amazing! nice 3d printer!
This is the nicest tronxy x5s build I have seen so far! I have the x5st but I can't get the auto levelling to work, do you know what needs to be done to activate it?
I don't own one but from what I've read make sure the bed is heated.. people say its a rookie mistake to auto-level a bed that's not heated at the time of leveling.
Great work, do you have any experience with Tronxy VEHO 1000??? any upgrades???? if anyone know anything would like any idea about,,thanks
Good night, when you closed the printer and started testing, did you have to make any changes to her firmawer? If possible, give me the firmawer you are using to have this quality and the slicer settings, I use Cura, do you also use it? I bought one just like yours, closed it and I'm still having trouble to have an excellent quality to produce my pieces. I appreciate your video and information about the printer. Actually I bought the 24V version, already updated and everything, Tronxy X5SA 24V, but it is little difference I believe.
Thanks for the video. I am between the Tronxy X5S 500 and CR10S 500. What would you recommend between the two? I have no 3D printer experience, but am mechanically capable and think I could tinker with either one. They both seem very popular, but have noticed differences such as a cubed frame and belts vs lead screws between the two. Of these two models, what do you recommend? Thank you
spezzy To be honest none of them. You will have alot of problems leveling the bed that size on both machines. Auto level is a must have at that scale. Also both have 12V power supplies at that bed size?! That's not remotely enough. If you looking for large scale 3D printer I would strongly recomend that you go with X5SA(if you are willing to do upgrades) or Anycubic Chiron(I made final review not long) th-cam.com/video/goY6slY4Ryc/w-d-xo.html
I completely agree with Nexi here and if large print size is important, I suggest the Chiron, too, as I’ve had much better experience with Anycubic than with Tronxy, both in the quality of the product and their service.
Once you have your first printer easily working trouble-free, then you could consider modifying a Tronxy for your second printer, as the Core-XY mechanicals have an advantage, in theory, over the back-and-forth moving printbed of the Chiron. Nexi’s modifications make his Tronxy able to print with more exotic materials/higher temperatures - the enclosure is essential for this and the Tronxy’s design seems to suit it.
If different materials and print size are less important and you’re looking for speed and quality, I recommend you get a Delta instead :) my first printer was the original Anycubic Kossel and I’m now very happy with my Kossel Linear Plus! Not usually recommended for a beginner but it was easy to set up, and it’s reliable - it is very useful for printing parts for my Tronxy :)
Hello, what is the differences between X5S and X5SA ? For example on the X5S is famous the heated bed is not working and have to buy a dedicated power supply of 24V for make it heat up. Here on the X5SA is the same? Seems like they upgrade/fix some issues from the X5S and named X5SA but what they update?
Thanks
Or by the way why the X5SA it cost 60$ more that the X5S ? On the gearbest site they have same features. Thanks
Hi NExi, those door hinges. did you print them assembled or disassembled? If the latter, was it easy to retrofit? also what thermistor upgrade would be compatible for the X5SA pro or X5SA?
good video
How did you lock the silicone bed?
Tiago Pereira It comes with 3M tape preinstalled.
When installing your ac hot bed did you have to change anything in the software to reconise a higher temp ie 120c also would it be posible for a install vid on the ac hot bed
Hello, thanks for great review and recommendations
Have you tried to upgrade X5SA with double extruder?
when you printed the x,y upgrade where did you move the senior too that was beside the extruder?
if you still use it take out spring belt tensioner use only manual steady tensioner for better guality (when printer move fast spring make worse quality)
Cool. If you compare this printer to the cr10s pro, which one do you prefer before/after mods?
Would you recommend duel color on this model I had a blob and my wife ripped the wires for the heater on the filament so I was thinking titan but ran across dual color titan
Are you an engineer? Very nicely done!! Impressive. It really shows you have high standards and you have a keen eye for intricate details. Very impressed with what you have done. I am about to buy this printer. I've saved your video for future reference when the printer gets delivered. I am curious as to where can I get that thermal gun you use during the printing test....? Can you share a link? Thanks again and keep up the great work. Best regards, Rob
Rob Fern Well I could be one but in school I would not get knowledge and skills that I have now and I would not learn about 3D printers and so many other things that I know thanks to the web. Knowledge is all over the net and thanks to brilliant people all over the world so you only need time and will to learn what ever interests you :)
Thanks Rob! Yes of course here it is. I made video about that Thermal gun. th-cam.com/video/5HcpL8BNyZw/w-d-xo.html
Best regards
Nexi
I couldn't find it. What rubber tubing did you use with the plexiglass?
Its great that you made a new video! My X5SA unfortunately caught on fire and now I am trying to fight for replacement parts from GearBest >.
Thanks man! Oh no! I sorry for your X5SA! I guess that you did not see my review video where I mention important safety tip about this machine. Main DC wires are too thin to carry the continuous load and they get pretty hot. That heat is then transferred to mother board and power supply which can get damaged. You need to ether add one more DC wire or to place wires on the side (inside) aluminum extrusions to work as huge heat-sink.
Nexi Tech I actually had it wired similar to yours, with the wires inside the frame to dissipate the heat. I also wasn't using the heat bed which it also baffles me that it did what it did.
Justin Lincoln When you change wiring you should always verify connections and verify voltage drop on each wire ( put millivolt meter in parallel to see voltage drop. No more then 2% drop 12v. = 0.24V drop). Probe on +12v PSU and +12V on load
Didn't change wiring, the stock wires that came with printer caught on fire. Was running everything 100% stock at the time and I guess Tronxy just doesn't want people to know their setups catch on fire lol
I upgraded the power supply and heatbed wiring after Nexi’s original video. Mine caught on fire too first time I turned it on, but in my case it was the hotend heat cartridge and its wiring. Tronxy sent me a replacement, but I used a standard spare that I had.
My biggest two problems with this printer are - weak hotend/unreliable extruder feed, and bed levelling - there are no Z-stop switches, so the heated bed seems to lose its level with every print, as the two stepper motors get out of sync. I have to do an auto level before every print. Can Z-stop switches be added?
Hi, Nexi tech good day. I was looking to buy a new printer and I am leaning towards this x5sa. Do you still suggest it now as a good core XY printer buy? My current printer is an ender 3 and upgraded a lot on it.
Hey Nexi Thanks for all your effort.
Most of the parts are ordered... except the e3D Clone..
I ordered the X5SA with 24V option. You switched to a 15amps PSU with 24V right?
The Heatbed is 220v 600w (EU for me as well), you routed the Heatbed outputs to the SSR (to switch it) and the Powerline parallel from the PSU to the SSR -> Heatbed.. right?
Whats the exact dimensions for the Alloy of the heatbed? 330x330?
since my idea is to get a new Aluminium Heatbed, tape the Heatbed downunder and use a glassplate on top of the Aluminium.
The SSR switches the Heatbed until it reaches the Temperature correct?
Feedback would be REALLY appreciated! :)
Thanks for your Build and Video!
Hey Nexi, any chance you'll upgrade to the quieter controller board?
Nice video. I have a question for you regarding changing the value of the thermistor. I too am upgrading my X5SA to a E3D V6. It comes with a 100K thermistor, which I know is different from the stock thermistor. What code do I need to run to set the correct value in the firmware?
Awesome!
Is it possible to have the stl file for the spool holder?
Thanks!
Thanks mate! Sure here it is: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1624641/files
Excellent video Nexi Tech, quick question, what is the material you using on top of your heat-bed?
Pelican Archive Thanks :) It's PEI printing surface. You have all links in video description.
never mind I figured it out. The default travel speed in cura is 120mm which is way too fast for this printer. I set it to 60 and haven't had an issue. since.
Rick Smart You got some problem with your machine. I can reach 200mm/s travel without any problem or any layer shift even with completely stock hardware with no mods on this machine. First check your X and Y movement's by hand are they move nice and smooth? Then double check all wheel bearings on aluminium extrusions. Then re-check bearings(pulleys). They all need to roll smooth and without drag. Maybe you over tight bearings on belts. Also last step re-check stepper drivers voltages. Set them to 0.9V.
@@NexiTech hey,
I had already checked all of that and then again. I was about to send it back but after doing a little digging on reddit a user suggested I turn the travel speed down and it worked like a dream. Also i dont know how to change the voltage of my stepper motors. Do you have a tutorial? Thanks for getting back to me so fast as well.
Will this printer allow dual extruder setup?
You do nice work.
Thanks
Thank you so much
I'm glad you like it.
What can i do if want have quiter stepper motor? If only move z-axis, there is big voice. I dont know if come from motors or another vibrations. I also noticed, that on board is regulator near stepper driver. That regulator change voltage to motors?
Did you have any trouble connecting to Cura via usb? I cant seem to detect the printer and ive tried using all com ports and still nothing any help would be awesome. Great video! and Tronxy must have listened to you they added butterfly nuts for the bed and way better Y and X bearings on my kit i just got. Thanks.
Nice setup, but I can't help but wonder how much you've got invested in this printer now. I know they go for about $400US, and from all that you've done, if I were to guess, I would guess you have another $400US in it. That said, and with all of the modifications you've had to do to get it to this level, did you ever consider just building one from scratch? It seems like you could have built one as good for less money. Again though, nice job with everything you did to it.