N55 engine oil is 5w30. This is not too thick. I wouldn't worry about waiting for the engine to warm up. I would probably say don't drive hard until the engine warms up.
Good video good idea but there are a couple of correction. Regarding letting your engine warm up fully, it is a debated topic. You warm up the engine quickest by driving it around gently. There is thought that if you let it idle, it does take longer to warm up so in theory you are getting more oil dilution than you just driving it gently (cold engine, piston rings isn't sealing as well as operating temp, fuel into engine oil). Personally I let it idle for a minute or 2 and then just drive it gently until the oil is up to temp. One thing I would say about oil. If you don't need to (driving in winter), don't run 0w-30 BMW oil. I done 2 analysis on the oil at really short interval (~1500 km) and they were not on spec. They thinned out to about a 20 for viscosity already. I run 5w-40 in my M2. Your comment around voiding warranty is not true. The dealership would only refuse warranty if the aftermarket modification can be linked to the failure. I had full bolt ons on the car without a tune and I had plenty of warranty work done on my car (Rear rotor/caliper, oil pan gasket, tail lights, head unit replacement). I'd say the only thing sketchy to do would be a tune. As soon as BMW sees you messed with the tune, likely they will BS it and link it to your issue. But other wise all the dealerships I been to had no issues with my bolt ons (4 dealers in total). It is a very very common misconception that you mod the car in any way your whole warranty is voided. PS, if you are running a cone filter, you might want to look into additional filtration. The cone filter compared to the OEM panel filter barely does any filtering. I do run a cone filter but I have put on an additional filter sock on top. (When I was doing my oil analysis mentioned above, the lab mentioned they found high silicon and asked me to check my intake system for leaks. It is mostly due to dust being sucked up. I never mentioned to them about my intake and the only thing I changed was the intake to an aftermarket one that year. There was also no leaks. Upon further research on the forums, it is very obvious cone filters really don't filter much.
Automotive engineer first year student here. New cars 90% of them are using hypereutectic pistons. They have 12.5% silicon in them which prevents thermal expansion. There is literally no reason to sit and idle a car for long periods of time anymore. Even our oil it may get thicker in cold but we have 0w oil now which is so thin it can work in the coldest countries. the 30 or 40 after the 0w-5w just means the oil acts like a 30 to 40 weight oil but has the same base.
@@collectingms3803 I would still let it warm up but no more than 30 seconds in the summer and 1 minute in the winter. Just dont redline it right after starting it and drive under 3,000rpms till the temp is good. The main reason is turbos inlets to feed oil do not like to be rushed before they expand as they still dont have the same material as pistons do since they get so hot (1000*F). Furthermore, for non turbo engines, the oil has a harder time flowing when the car just started so its more to prevent oil starvation than warped pistons. (Its the reason why heavy duty trucks have oil pressure gauges)
@@meshee1 Not entirely in colder temps its to defrost the windows and scrap ice off your car by then it has been a minute. But I see people warming up their cars for 10 minutes like we in the 80s
Warm-up is a nightmare on modern engines. Electronic control of the thermostat selects a setting somewhere between 70 and 115degC depending upon the detected driving behaviour. This means that a car driven gently much of the time will have a working temperature so high that it will degrade the plastic parts such as in the cooling system, casings of sensors and the chain tensioner, and make them more brittle and prone to failure. This is not an excuse to thrash it, even though that will tend to lower the thermostat setting down to rally car levels!
Perfect advise, the warming up, the early oil changes. ( BMW is running all kinds of oil change specials ) Not sure I agree on your air filter idea ,filter sucking up Hot air in engine compartment regardless of filter box. I’m no expert . You didn’t mention automatic car shut off for fuel savings, I hate this stupid feature. You just come off of the interstate going 70+ you get to the exit and stop,and your engine shuts off ,seems counterintuitive. Use Premium fuel if required ,I think is a good idea, drive it not beat it.
I'm sorry but the glass bottle analogy was dumb.. it'll break either way cold or hot also why did BMW made a 2 piece pan when it could been done with 1 whole piece. Sometimes automakers do make dumb decisions
N55 engine oil is 5w30. This is not too thick. I wouldn't worry about waiting for the engine to warm up. I would probably say don't drive hard until the engine warms up.
Thanks man , what a nice video (short and full of information)🔥🔥.
And that M2 is looking good 😈.
Keep the nice work man 😉
Thank you bro! I'm really happy you enjoyed the video!
Good video good idea but there are a couple of correction.
Regarding letting your engine warm up fully, it is a debated topic. You warm up the engine quickest by driving it around gently. There is thought that if you let it idle, it does take longer to warm up so in theory you are getting more oil dilution than you just driving it gently (cold engine, piston rings isn't sealing as well as operating temp, fuel into engine oil). Personally I let it idle for a minute or 2 and then just drive it gently until the oil is up to temp.
One thing I would say about oil. If you don't need to (driving in winter), don't run 0w-30 BMW oil. I done 2 analysis on the oil at really short interval (~1500 km) and they were not on spec. They thinned out to about a 20 for viscosity already. I run 5w-40 in my M2.
Your comment around voiding warranty is not true. The dealership would only refuse warranty if the aftermarket modification can be linked to the failure. I had full bolt ons on the car without a tune and I had plenty of warranty work done on my car (Rear rotor/caliper, oil pan gasket, tail lights, head unit replacement). I'd say the only thing sketchy to do would be a tune. As soon as BMW sees you messed with the tune, likely they will BS it and link it to your issue. But other wise all the dealerships I been to had no issues with my bolt ons (4 dealers in total). It is a very very common misconception that you mod the car in any way your whole warranty is voided.
PS, if you are running a cone filter, you might want to look into additional filtration. The cone filter compared to the OEM panel filter barely does any filtering. I do run a cone filter but I have put on an additional filter sock on top. (When I was doing my oil analysis mentioned above, the lab mentioned they found high silicon and asked me to check my intake system for leaks. It is mostly due to dust being sucked up. I never mentioned to them about my intake and the only thing I changed was the intake to an aftermarket one that year. There was also no leaks. Upon further research on the forums, it is very obvious cone filters really don't filter much.
Automotive engineer first year student here. New cars 90% of them are using hypereutectic pistons. They have 12.5% silicon in them which prevents thermal expansion. There is literally no reason to sit and idle a car for long periods of time anymore. Even our oil it may get thicker in cold but we have 0w oil now which is so thin it can work in the coldest countries. the 30 or 40 after the 0w-5w just means the oil acts like a 30 to 40 weight oil but has the same base.
That's a really interesting take! Even with all that factored in, would you not let the car run for 15-20 seconds before driving?
Tell that to E60 M5 Owners.
@@collectingms3803 I would still let it warm up but no more than 30 seconds in the summer and 1 minute in the winter. Just dont redline it right after starting it and drive under 3,000rpms till the temp is good. The main reason is turbos inlets to feed oil do not like to be rushed before they expand as they still dont have the same material as pistons do since they get so hot (1000*F). Furthermore, for non turbo engines, the oil has a harder time flowing when the car just started so its more to prevent oil starvation than warped pistons. (Its the reason why heavy duty trucks have oil pressure gauges)
@@MJT-DAso basically his recommendation was on point??😅
@@meshee1 Not entirely in colder temps its to defrost the windows and scrap ice off your car by then it has been a minute. But I see people warming up their cars for 10 minutes like we in the 80s
Those wheels look dope with that blue! Is it Le Mans Blue?
just use the old tried and tested warm up procedure wait until your coolant temps are at least before driving off 80c and 90c before flooring it.
that OG M2 is clean as hell. Can't wait to get the predecessor 1M or M2 comp
Thank you bro! That's really awesome. Two of BMWs best cars imo. I'm sure both will be super fun
#6 dont run pops and bangs 😂 new pistons and rings on the way for my og m2🎉
@@Mathiaseck87 hahaha definitely don't watch this video then bro 😂th-cam.com/video/dIZZWzaMI7Y/w-d-xo.html
Have a twin turbo V8 X5 M50i , I let that thing warm up for a good 15 min before I start driving just to be sure everything is circulating.
My S63 M6 I do the same thing but still not sure if that's correct! 🤔
Warm-up is a nightmare on modern engines. Electronic control of the thermostat selects a setting somewhere between 70 and 115degC depending upon the detected driving behaviour. This means that a car driven gently much of the time will have a working temperature so high that it will degrade the plastic parts such as in the cooling system, casings of sensors and the chain tensioner, and make them more brittle and prone to failure. This is not an excuse to thrash it, even though that will tend to lower the thermostat setting down to rally car levels!
This young kid knows much more than BMW....Lol
Dude woke up and decided to talk out his ass
What is the bad advice in this video
same thing apply to the m2c?
Yessir!
Perfect advise, the warming up, the early oil changes. ( BMW is running all kinds of oil change specials )
Not sure I agree on your air filter idea ,filter sucking up Hot air in engine compartment regardless of filter box.
I’m no expert .
You didn’t mention automatic car shut off for fuel savings, I hate this stupid feature.
You just come off of the interstate going 70+ you get to the exit and stop,and your engine shuts off ,seems counterintuitive.
Use Premium fuel if required ,I think is a good idea, drive it not beat it.
Do you suggest not to use the auto shut off ?
Whats the name of the rims?
I don't track my car but BMW's are made to run hard.. Changing oil every 3,000 miles? They did that when the kid wasn't even born.
Yeah, next step is how to make the electronics last forever
Haha yeah. At least they're not at Range Rover level
@@collectingms3803 Yeah, if only we could have Japanese reliability, Italian design, and German performance
@@clutch44444 Would be nice yeah.. But in the mean time we get huge grills lol
@@collectingms3803 In the beginning when they came out I really didn't like them, but they've grown on me a bit
@@clutch44444 Oh yeah, they definitely look a lot better in person! The interiors are awesome too
its never going to happen
This guy is clueless
I'm sorry but the glass bottle analogy was dumb.. it'll break either way cold or hot also why did BMW made a 2 piece pan when it could been done with 1 whole piece. Sometimes automakers do make dumb decisions
Why do clueless people make videos about this😂 0:20 byebye