Really appreciate the video. I have 3 old 4320s that I gotta keep running and I just spotted the exact same leak you just demo d the repair 👍. Saved me a ton of head scrstching
I just did a similar job on my 3040 with 9500hrs. A little simpler though as I don't have the yokes on either side - the shaft just goes straight into the housing and there's no need to remove it, I just tapped it through to expose the inner seal, then replaced the seal. A very easy job and no leaks! Another good video, Wes, thanks.
usually used equipment issues are from previous owners lack of maintenance/cobble jobs to the shop missing things. Oh well, at least you found it and are dealing with it. I also know of the weak parts the john deere has made or makes still as well as the chinese wiring harnesses. All brands have cheap crap or cost saving measures done to them which bites us the consumer in the ass, the older tractors seem to last longer than the new.
I've got a 3020 with the same set up.I found the hard way you can't use a 3 point disc mower unless you enjoy replacing the load shaft seal every other year.
I have been through all that with my 2640 had to knock out bushings what a pain in the ass that was deere wanted 350 for new shaft found one on internet for 150 aftermarket worked fine there is a oring and plastic washer for backup in bushings had to put bushings in ice to get them in still hard to get in used brass and 3 pound hammer I lost enough oil over time to buy the tractor hope your fix works.
I must be the exception to the rule here, have two 4020's, a 3020, 4440 and a 4255, they were all purchased new and only been on our farm, never had one leak yet from there yet until today and my 4255 is dripping, all this tractor does is pull a planter and the 3 point hasn't been lowered in over 10 years, it's actually chained up to prevent coming down accidentally and getting into planter tongue, today I serviced it and noticed drips on cement while I was changing engine oil and hydraulic oil was low, looks like I may have to try changing these seals, tractor is an 89 with 2555 hours I would hope the shaft isn't worn and can just replace seals
Lets just hope that the rust on the shaft has not damaged the oil seal! Where oh where did you manage to find one of those with such low engine hours - remarkable.
Lucky it was just an oil leak. Here in the UK I used to drive a 3040 and any fully mounted plough would soon snap those shafts. Any update on the baler or mower ?
When under the tractor, do you get much crap in your eyes? I always said to myself "dang it, why didn't I wear my glasses". I never learned until it happens again and again. By glasses, they were/are clear protective glasses I also used for shooting.
Wes when i was younger i used to love doing this stuff to my 4240 but as i get older i get to dreading it more and more. I guess you don;t have that problem lOL...
very usefull vid i gota do my seals on a 4040 witch i think are very simmular. do you hav any tips for getting the rack and pinion axle track width, free as its seizzed solid? Cheers from England
Wes, You went to all that trouble to fix a leak that has plagued Deere tractors since 1960 but the question is , why didn't you actually fix the problem correctly ? I know that is a snarky comment but the seals Deere used originally were wafer thin where the seal met the shaft and if the shaft had a thin amount of wear it wasn't long before they started leaking again, often within months. The best one time fix that I have found were nylon seals that were thick as the seal itself, maybe 1/2 inch wide and oil doesn't get by it. It seems that I had ordered my seals from Boling Machine shop somewhere in Missouri, and they weren't expensive. I have reused older shafts and got along ok, Deere parts guys always want to replace the shaft because the wear mark would continue to leak. I have a 3020 that I fixed maybe 40 years ago with no problems and several 4020s and a 4230 afterwards and they held oil until they were traded. I was told that Deere changed the style of the seals and they must be working because i don't hear the griping about the seals any more. The reason the seals would leak is because the 3 point arms will bang around and make flat spots on the shaft right where the seal sits, either wire the arms together or run them in the down position to stop the slap.
Wes your videos are very educational as well as entertaining, have you ever figured what you have saved by doing these jobs yourself? My Grandfather when he was alive working his farm when asked that same question replied " I have saved the farm."
They Say If your bald in front you're a thinker , If you're bald in back you're a lover , If you're bald all over you think you're a lover... Many Blessings...SMR
You do great work. I have a jd2440 and the load control arm needs new bearings. The bearings are the big ones that are pressed into the side of the transmission case. I would be interested in how to get those two bearings out without tearing anything up? Thanks ahead of time.
Wes, my old JD3010, the shaft was slightly different. You also had to make sure that it was oriented correctly too. Otherwise, would leak. Another excellent video btw. Cheers
I have a very similar problem that reoccurs yearly with my 2550 deere tractor. I replace the seals and shims on it and then the next year it's leaking so frigging bad that I have to throw five gallons of hyd oil in it just to use it. biggest pos I have ever owned.
The only way I have been 100% successful is to replace the shaft with new bushings and seals, (buy once cry once) along with shimming the drawbar support to eliminate as much side to side play as possible. Cheapen the job with A and I parts.
Senses the amount of pull of ground-engaging implements (how hard the tractor is pulling them or how hard they're "holding the tractor back". They deflect under the load which moves a long lever inside the transmission housing that goes up and operates a valve in the hydraulic lift housing to raise and lower the plow (implement) in draft control mode on the hydraulic lift. Say your plowing, you lower the plow in the ground and take off it has a certain amount of pull, so the shaft deflects and operates the valve to balance whatever depth setting you put on the lift lever (quadrant lever). Say you're plowing along and hit a hard spot-- the plow wants to stop but the tractor wants to go, pulls harder on the plow, which pulls harder on the pull arms, which deflects the shaft more, so it moves the valve to lift the plow until everything equals out against spring pressure in the valve/lever again. Once you plow past the hard spot and say get into loose soil, the pressure on the plow decreases due to it being shallow which allows the rod to flex back against the pressure, reducing the deflection and moving the valve back, lowering the implement until the drag on it increases on the pull arms and the rod deflects and moves the valve back to an equilibrium point and stops the lowering, or raises the implement slightly. When plowing in draft control this is happening CONSTANTLY as the loads on the plow and tractor change, automatically raising and lowering the implement in response to the draft load, hence "draft control". In "position control" on the lift quadrant, this lever and it's associated valve are bypassed, and the lever controls the arm height directly regardless of the pulling load on the 3 point hitch. Ford puts their load control valve up top, operated by the top link pushing IN on the tractor as the 3 point plow pushes in on top link, as the plow bottoms are below the lower pull arms, thereby creating leverage. Same principle, just different location for the equipment-- high and dry versus down and dirty... LOL:) Later! OL J R :)
onelonleyfarmer thats the same as my 4230. i have had to beat the bushings out of the 40 and 30 series tractors a lot over the years and they are a royal bitch so i dont blame you for just cleaning that shaft and seeing if it leaks. BUT the day will come lol
Yep. Watch the last minute of the video. You can see the nice bird perch New Holland gave them to crap on. You can't see the bird crap because of the yellow paint.
You switch the PTO shafts to change from 540 to 1000rpm, the shaft sitting horizontally is in the stored position, pop out a couple snap rings and swap them to change speeds
wes tell them you dont give a monkeys uncle you know its had a filter how did you get on with your mower and your baler hope all is sorted as i know what a pain it is during harvest time done a bit on farms in the past mind you its different slightly in the uk we get more rain lol
Good thing Ford didn't design the tractor because you would have to take the wheel off because that pin would be 1/2" too long to get it off with the wheel on. :)
No, Ford designed it right the first time and puts their load control mechanism up in the lift cover with the lift cylinder and valving, actuated by the top link, the way it SHOULD be done. Deere and Case/IH did it ass-backwards and put the thing down at the bottom of the transmission housing on the pull arms so that it's a wet connection at the very bottom of the rear end sump, so it leaks like crazy when it starts giving problems Ford pull arms mount to solid casting bosses on the bottom of the axle final drive housings, and are a dry connection (no penetrations into the oil filled part of the axle). Later! OL J R :)
I'll bet Wes could make just as much or more money at a nice straight forward FORTY Hour job as an engineer for JD. "speriance trumps degree every day. Just ask King Richard P. and the Waltrip boys.
True, but there are still plenty of other 3pt jobs. A lot of anhydrous applicators (at least the smaller ones in my area) are pulled with the 3pt. Or if your using a subsoiler just to name a few.
Nope, farm diesel only has a color additive to it. It doesn't affect performance by any noticeable amount. Compare it to watering down your whiskey or other hard liquor with a few drops of water per cup of liquor. You are not going to tell the difference.
Karsten Jackson If anything they are losing money on "farm diesel". (A.K.A, "Untaxed" or "off road diesel") Farm diesel is cheaper to purchase to make it easier for farmers to run their machinery as farming is an important part of the welfare of the nation. So yeah, that's why the police check your "on road" vehicles for the dye used in untaxed diesel. To ensure that the scheme isn't abused. If you are found driving on the road with untaxed diesel you can be fined $10k.
Farm diesel usually has more sulfur than pump diesel and doesn't burn as clean. That is way new diesel trucks have to have ultra low sulfur ( pump diesel ) or else you'll fuck up the emissions. It also is tax free. The color is just to differentiate between the two kinds both for environmental and tax reasons.
We're watching his videos for the content, we don't give a hoot about titles, they are just something to have to sit through until the video starts. If we wanted fancy titles we would watch commercial TV.
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Really appreciate the video. I have 3 old 4320s that I gotta keep running and I just spotted the exact same leak you just demo d the repair 👍.
Saved me a ton of head scrstching
Thanks your video was a lot more informative than the service manual.
Really great to see the whole process!!!
8 years later and I'm doing the same thing,but I installed new bushings and seals. Great vioo. Thank OLF
Great fix Wes, love your videos and nice tractor:)!
Great video man! I notice how you always try getting us involved as much as possible, and letting us see your point if view.
I just did a similar job on my 3040 with 9500hrs. A little simpler though as I don't have the yokes on either side - the shaft just goes straight into the housing and there's no need to remove it, I just tapped it through to expose the inner seal, then replaced the seal. A very easy job and no leaks! Another good video, Wes, thanks.
I have a 4230 with the same problem its been sitting up all year now that you've shown me how to go about fixing it I think I will. Great job Wes
I second that motion,Great job Wes
I wish I was a quarter as smart as this guy is, man guy I really enjoy your vids very informative
Thank you!
You are right. On the 40 series and above, there is a grease fitting at this part of the tractor.
hi im glad to see your workshop is organised like mine apart from yours is bigger, thanks keep up the good work
Very good job!!
usually used equipment issues are from previous owners lack of maintenance/cobble jobs to the shop missing things. Oh well, at least you found it and are dealing with it. I also know of the weak parts the john deere has made or makes still as well as the chinese wiring harnesses. All brands have cheap crap or cost saving measures done to them which bites us the consumer in the ass, the older tractors seem to last longer than the new.
Thanks Wes...fixing to have to do this job on the 4430...Just had to refresh my memory..
Where do I get the parts
I've got a 3020 with the same set up.I found the hard way you can't use a 3 point disc mower unless you enjoy replacing the load shaft seal every other year.
I have been through all that with my 2640 had to knock out bushings what a pain in the ass that was deere wanted 350 for new shaft found one on internet for 150 aftermarket worked fine there is a oring and plastic washer for backup in bushings had to put bushings in ice to get them in still hard to get in used brass and 3 pound hammer I lost enough oil over time to buy the tractor hope your fix works.
I had this exact same problem on my 4020 running a 3pt mower like this.
Good fix seen that done before and it worked
I must be the exception to the rule here, have two 4020's, a 3020, 4440 and a 4255, they were all purchased new and only been on our farm, never had one leak yet from there yet until today and my 4255 is dripping, all this tractor does is pull a planter and the 3 point hasn't been lowered in over 10 years, it's actually chained up to prevent coming down accidentally and getting into planter tongue, today I serviced it and noticed drips on cement while I was changing engine oil and hydraulic oil was low, looks like I may have to try changing these seals, tractor is an 89 with 2555 hours I would hope the shaft isn't worn and can just replace seals
nice job...have done plenty of those myself...those load control shafts can be a pain
I have found that If that loud shaft has any wear on it, just replace it because the seals won't hold up. New bushing always help to.
You should drill and tap those end caps for a zerk so you can grease it ever so often.
John Deere is a great machine / but that is a crazy setup!
ive always know them as lift arms. great vid wes. have they started to repair the broken bridge yet?
Lets just hope that the rust on the shaft has not damaged the oil seal!
Where oh where did you manage to find one of those with such low engine hours - remarkable.
So did you actually replace o rings somewhere? How did you get the plugs/caps out after removing retaining clips? Thanks
Lucky it was just an oil leak.
Here in the UK I used to drive a 3040 and any fully mounted plough would soon snap those shafts. Any update on the baler or mower ?
When under the tractor, do you get much crap in your eyes? I always said to myself "dang it, why didn't I wear my glasses". I never learned until it happens again and again. By glasses, they were/are clear protective glasses I also used for shooting.
Wes when i was younger i used to love doing this stuff to my 4240 but as i get older i get to dreading it more and more. I guess you don;t have that problem lOL...
have the same problem with my 4230. not leaking that much but it is leaking. will fix it next winter
very usefull vid i gota do my seals on a 4040 witch i think are very simmular. do you hav any tips for getting the rack and pinion axle track width, free as its seizzed solid? Cheers from England
Wes, You went to all that trouble to fix a leak that has plagued Deere tractors since 1960 but the question is , why didn't you actually fix the problem correctly ? I know that is a snarky comment but the seals Deere used originally were wafer thin where the seal met the shaft and if the shaft had a thin amount of wear it wasn't long before they started leaking again, often within months. The best one time fix that I have found were nylon seals that were thick as the seal itself, maybe 1/2 inch wide and oil doesn't get by it. It seems that I had ordered my seals from Boling Machine shop somewhere in Missouri, and they weren't expensive. I have reused older shafts and got along ok, Deere parts guys always want to replace the shaft because the wear mark would continue to leak. I have a 3020 that I fixed maybe 40 years ago with no problems and several 4020s and a 4230 afterwards and they held oil until they were traded. I was told that Deere changed the style of the seals and they must be working because i don't hear the griping about the seals any more. The reason the seals would leak is because the 3 point arms will bang around and make flat spots on the shaft right where the seal sits, either wire the arms together or run them in the down position to stop the slap.
Wes your videos are very educational as well as entertaining, have you ever figured what you have saved by doing these jobs yourself? My Grandfather when he was alive working his farm when asked that same question replied " I have saved the farm."
Do you use all those tractors you have in that shed where youre fixing your tractors and other stuff? Or do most of this just sitting there?
Could you drill and tap that end piece and install a grease zert ?
God bless
Wyr
Wes I got the same problem I fought it for ever changed everything you could still leaks some I just give up and add oil now and again.
How often do you change the hydraulic oil in your tractors?
They Say
If your bald in front you're a thinker , If you're bald in back you're a lover , If you're bald all over you think you're a lover...
Many Blessings...SMR
what tractor is sitting in the back, tipping on a flat tire?
At 3:20ish did you say it’s just messy or Mesick(y)?
You're a getter done kinda guy,good job
Do you do any diesel engine repair?.
You do great work. I have a jd2440 and the load control arm needs new bearings. The bearings are the big ones that are pressed into the side of the transmission case. I would be interested in how to get those two bearings out without tearing anything up? Thanks ahead of time.
They are bushings, and they can be removed with a bearing puller, which will need to pull from the groove where the seal fits in (remove the seal)
Eggcelent video, what kind of grease gun is that? I dont think I've seen one like it before. good repair
Looks like a hose from a 5 gallon pail. Must have got tired of changing cartridges, always air-locked or half-full when new.
Wes, my old JD3010, the shaft was slightly different. You also had to make sure that it was oriented correctly too. Otherwise, would leak. Another excellent video btw. Cheers
we have the same har cut we look good
When you found the screwdriver and went woo hoo the rooster was happy for you he went cocka doodle do. Did anybody else notice that too?
Good Stuff. Fearless. Just tear it down and fix it.........
Why does the camera keep shaking itself and making the strange clicking noise?
wes? why don't you run the tractor with cab on it??? the one by the wall.
I have a very similar problem that reoccurs yearly with my 2550 deere tractor. I replace the seals and shims on it and then the next year it's leaking so frigging bad that I have to throw five gallons of hyd oil in it just to use it. biggest pos I have ever owned.
Nice
I like that...pos! We all know what that means if its made in 1973 and after!
I have the same problem with my 3020 I replacing everything now the old bushing ,bar and seal hopefully never have this problem again
I've replaced my seals twice in the last 3 years. I think it's because I started using a 3 point disc mower
Hey Wes, forget the T-shirts. What you really need to start selling is OLF hats.
The only way I have been 100% successful is to replace the shaft with new bushings and seals, (buy once cry once) along with shimming the drawbar support to eliminate as much side to side play as possible. Cheapen the job with A and I parts.
My grandpas 4440 and 4240 are horrible they leak insanely but it doesn't even have 3pt to run mine does and it doesn't leak got any tips
At 2:05, I think that was the backside of a "Wheel of Mis-Fortune"!
me too lol
I think you would know if it was lol thanks for stopping by I really enjoyed the visit :)
I don't know if you will get this since it is on an old video but where did you get your hat?
its Minnetonka you can look it up on line.
What is the purpose of the Load Control Shaft?
Senses the amount of pull of ground-engaging implements (how hard the tractor is pulling them or how hard they're "holding the tractor back". They deflect under the load which moves a long lever inside the transmission housing that goes up and operates a valve in the hydraulic lift housing to raise and lower the plow (implement) in draft control mode on the hydraulic lift. Say your plowing, you lower the plow in the ground and take off it has a certain amount of pull, so the shaft deflects and operates the valve to balance whatever depth setting you put on the lift lever (quadrant lever). Say you're plowing along and hit a hard spot-- the plow wants to stop but the tractor wants to go, pulls harder on the plow, which pulls harder on the pull arms, which deflects the shaft more, so it moves the valve to lift the plow until everything equals out against spring pressure in the valve/lever again. Once you plow past the hard spot and say get into loose soil, the pressure on the plow decreases due to it being shallow which allows the rod to flex back against the pressure, reducing the deflection and moving the valve back, lowering the implement until the drag on it increases on the pull arms and the rod deflects and moves the valve back to an equilibrium point and stops the lowering, or raises the implement slightly.
When plowing in draft control this is happening CONSTANTLY as the loads on the plow and tractor change, automatically raising and lowering the implement in response to the draft load, hence "draft control".
In "position control" on the lift quadrant, this lever and it's associated valve are bypassed, and the lever controls the arm height directly regardless of the pulling load on the 3 point hitch.
Ford puts their load control valve up top, operated by the top link pushing IN on the tractor as the 3 point plow pushes in on top link, as the plow bottoms are below the lower pull arms, thereby creating leverage. Same principle, just different location for the equipment-- high and dry versus down and dirty... LOL:)
Later! OL J R :)
You're supposed to replace the load Shaft and load Shaft bushes
My brother's deer leaks oil out of almost every seal.
onelonleyfarmer thats the same as my 4230. i have had to beat the bushings out of the 40 and 30 series tractors a lot over the years and they are a royal bitch so i dont blame you for just cleaning that shaft and seeing if it leaks. BUT the day will come lol
so im almost sure they were not replaced though thats just how the 4230s are
Is the self propelled mower still a yard ornament?
Yep. Watch the last minute of the video. You can see the nice bird perch New Holland gave them to crap on. You can't see the bird crap because of the yellow paint.
Terry Presnal Museum of NEWHOLLAND lol..
I would love to know what that second PTO shaft in the back is for?
You switch the PTO shafts to change from 540 to 1000rpm, the shaft sitting horizontally is in the stored position, pop out a couple snap rings and swap them to change speeds
@@thegraintruckguy4345 i just read your comment and I'm glad I did thank you for your time to answer me.
wes tell them you dont give a monkeys uncle you know its had a filter how did you get on with your mower and your baler hope all is sorted as i know what a pain it is during harvest time done a bit on farms in the past mind you its different slightly in the uk we get more rain lol
Just wondering why you don't use electric grease gun with all the greasing you do.
i swear he had or has one, I saw that manual pumper and thought he had an electric before..
cool fix another good olf fix
Good thing Ford didn't design the tractor because you would have to take the wheel off because that pin would be 1/2" too long to get it off with the wheel on. :)
No, Ford designed it right the first time and puts their load control mechanism up in the lift cover with the lift cylinder and valving, actuated by the top link, the way it SHOULD be done.
Deere and Case/IH did it ass-backwards and put the thing down at the bottom of the transmission housing on the pull arms so that it's a wet connection at the very bottom of the rear end sump, so it leaks like crazy when it starts giving problems
Ford pull arms mount to solid casting bosses on the bottom of the axle final drive housings, and are a dry connection (no penetrations into the oil filled part of the axle).
Later! OL J R :)
Why does your 4430 look like its leaning to the right? Flat tire?
The rear tire is flat. I think he might have mentioned that in a earlier video.
Is it possible to just take out the clips rather then take down everything out?
من عاشق تراکتورجاندیرم بخصوص 3140و4230
Typical John Deere leak,the European older models have the same problem with the lower shaft from the 3-point hitch
I'll bet Wes could make just as much or more money at a nice straight forward FORTY Hour job as an engineer for JD. "speriance trumps degree every day. Just ask King Richard P. and the Waltrip boys.
Don't you wish someone would make a kit to just delete the control rod ? There aren't many uses for it today . Not many people moldboard anymore .
True, but there are still plenty of other 3pt jobs. A lot of anhydrous applicators (at least the smaller ones in my area) are pulled with the 3pt. Or if your using a subsoiler just to name a few.
Yeah but most jobs you just need depth control not load control , except maybe subsoiler .
Wes why don't you power wash machines before starting repairs
That tractor needs a good cleaning and waxing.
rock shaft
can i buy onelonelyfarmer t shirts?
Yeah I'd love one of them shirts
WHats the diffrence between farm diesel and regular pump diesel?
Ya I knew the color but dose it burn driffrently?
Nope, farm diesel only has a color additive to it. It doesn't affect performance by any noticeable amount.
Compare it to watering down your whiskey or other hard liquor with a few drops of water per cup of liquor. You are not going to tell the difference.
I've always thought of it as another way they can make money. there's no difference really besides price..
Karsten Jackson If anything they are losing money on "farm diesel". (A.K.A, "Untaxed" or "off road diesel") Farm diesel is cheaper to purchase to make it easier for farmers to run their machinery as farming is an important part of the welfare of the nation.
So yeah, that's why the police check your "on road" vehicles for the dye used in untaxed diesel. To ensure that the scheme isn't abused.
If you are found driving on the road with untaxed diesel you can be fined $10k.
Farm diesel usually has more sulfur than pump diesel and doesn't burn as clean. That is way new diesel trucks have to have ultra low sulfur ( pump diesel ) or else you'll fuck up the emissions. It also is tax free. The color is just to differentiate between the two kinds both for environmental and tax reasons.
Wes when are we going to see this gf of yours?
God I want to power wash that thing!!!
U should make a snapchat account
You need to make more professional titles. How do you get that many views with titles like that?
We're watching his videos for the content, we don't give a hoot about titles, they are just something to have to sit through until the video starts. If we wanted fancy titles we would watch commercial TV.
Wes Go see My Brothers Video Rogers fix it barn
holy shit you have a gf don't tell the haters lol
Your girlfriend might not care if you are bald but she will care if you ignore to produce the vids for us. :)
MAGA‼️🇺🇸
Nick Spector america was great now it russian controlled and screwed up with putins puppet
To much bla bla get to the point.